467: Americans in China - This American Life
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00:00 00:00 Transcript Share This American Life Life Partners How to Listen Episodes Recommended About Overview Staff Announcements Fellowships Jobs Music Make Radio On The Road FAQ Submissions Merch Contact Us Our Other Shows Merch Follow Us Life Partners Subscribe to our newsletter Full episode Toggle Audio and Transcript Sync Transcript | Episode #467 | May 22, 2015 467: Americans in China Note: This American Life is produced for the ear and designed to be heard.
00:00 00:00 文字记录 分享此 美国生活 生活伙伴 如何收听 剧集 推荐 关于 概述 员工公告 奖学金 工作 音乐 在路上制作电台 常见问题解答 提交 商品 联系我们 我们的其他节目 商品 关注我们 生活伙伴 订阅我们的时事通讯 整集 切换音频和文字记录同步 文字记录 | 内容第 467 集 | 2015 年 5 月 22 日 467：美国人在中国 注：《美国生活》是为耳朵而制作，旨在让人们听到。
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如果可以的话，我们强烈建议您收听音频，其中包括页面上没有的情感和重点。
Transcripts are generated using a combination of speech recognition software and human transcribers, and may contain errors.
文字记录是使用语音识别软件和人工转录员结合生成的，可能包含错误。
Please check the corresponding audio before quoting in print.
请在印刷版引用前检查相应的音频。
Prologue Ira Glass Benji had been living in China for just three weeks when he was first invited to be on a Chinese TV show.
序言 Ira Glass Benji 第一次受邀参加中国电视节目时才在中国生活了三个星期。
It's very easy as a foreigner to get on TV in some random way.
作为一个外国人，以某种随机的方式上电视是很容易的。
Yeah.
是的。
Benji And it depends on what areas you're hanging out.
Benji：这取决于您常去的地方。
Like if you're always hanging out at the malls, where a lot of foreigners are, where these scouts kind of hang out, then it can happen a lot.
就像如果你总是在商场里闲逛，那里有很多外国人，这些星探也在那里闲逛，那么这种情况就会经常发生。
Once a week or once every two weeks.
每周一次或每两周一次。
Emailing with Americans in China in putting together this week's radio show, we heard about this kind of thing from person after person, people being approached to be on TV.
在整理本周的广播节目时，我们通过电子邮件与在中国的美国人联系，从一个又一个的人那里听说了这种事情，人们被邀请上电视。
And at some point we began to wonder, have you guys all been on TV?
在某些时候我们开始想知道，你们都上过电视吗？
It was such a common experience for Americans in China.
对于在中国的美国人来说，这是很常见的经历。
TV producers spotted Chidalia on a website where American expatriates hung out in the city of Guangzhou, a website called Guangzhou Stuff.
电视制片人在一个美国侨民在广州闲逛的网站上发现了奇达利亚，该网站名为“Guangdong Stuff”。
A girl kind of just saw my photo and she asked me if I wanted to be on TV.
一个女孩刚刚看到我的照片，她问我是否想上电视。
And just, of course, me without even really asking what the program would be, I just said yeah, sure.
当然，我什至没有真正询问该计划是什么，我只是说是的，当然。
And they said, OK, come to the casting audition and I went.
他们说，好吧，来参加试镜吧，我就去了。
The woman at the audition asked if she'd ever heard of American Idol.
参加试镜的女士问她是否听说过《美国偶像》。
The answer was yes.
答案是肯定的。
But this would be for sort of a Chinese version called Super Girl.
但这将是一个名为“超级女声”的中国版本。
And So I just asked her what exactly that would entail.
所以我只是问她这到底意味着什么。
Because I know American Idol is all singing, and I'm not a singer.
因为我知道美国偶像都是唱歌，而我不是歌手。
Like not even a little.
一点也不喜欢。
So I told her I can't sing.
所以我告诉她我不会唱歌。
And she said oh, that's OK.
她说哦，没关系。
That's no problem.
那没问题。
And so I'm thinking well, how is it not a problem?
于是我就想，这怎么可能不是问题呢？
If this is a singing competition, the fact that I can't sing should actually be a really big problem.
如果这是歌唱比赛的话，我不会唱歌其实应该是一个很大的问题。
But they just wanted a foreigner to be on the program.
但他们只是希望有一个外国人参与该计划。
[SINGING CHINESE SONG]
【唱中国歌】
That's Chidalia singing on the program.
这是奇达利亚在节目中演唱的。
She was kept through the early rounds of the competition while, she says, much better singers were bounced.
她说，她在比赛的前几轮比赛中都被保留下来，而更好的歌手却被淘汰了。
I've often felt like a performing monkey on stage.
我常常感觉自己像一只在舞台上表演的猴子。
That's Benji again.
又是本吉。
The four different Americans I talked to used the phrase "performing monkey" to describe the experience of being on Chinese TV.
与我交谈的四位不同的美国人都用“表演猴子”这个词来形容在中国电视上的经历。
Benji's been on singing competitions as a judge and as a contestant.
Benji 曾担任歌唱比赛的评委和参赛者。
He's been on dramas in some pretty big parts.
他在戏剧中出演过一些相当重要的角色。
He's been on talk shows, which he describes this way.
他曾参加过脱口秀节目，他是这样描述的。
When foreigners go on TV shows, the most common thing is, they like to dress them up in old Chinese garb, like the Tang Dynasty clothes, and make them sing some old Chinese song and say some ridiculous phrase in Chinese.
外国人上电视节目时，最常见的就是，喜欢给他们穿上中国古代的服装，比如唐朝的衣服，让他们唱一些中国老歌，用中文说一些可笑的短语。
And then the host will come out and just kind of make fun of them or like talk back to them in a really bad Chinese accent, kind of like we-- which in America, if we were to speak to somebody back in their accent in English, it'd be considered kind of rude.
然后主持人会出来取笑他们，或者用非常糟糕的中国口音跟他们顶嘴，有点像我们——在美国，如果我们用他们的英语口音跟别人说话，会被认为是一种粗鲁。
Like I've heard that in Chinese TV, the things that get the best ratings are children, animals, and foreigners, which just kind of says it all.
就像我听说的，在中国的电视节目中，收视率最高的是儿童、动物和外国人，这已经说明了一切。
It's just that foreigners are considered cute and adorable.
只是外国人被认为是可爱的、可爱的。
It's kind of like a baby who can't take care of himself and needs to be loved.
这有点像一个不能照顾自己的婴儿，需要被爱。
Oh, so it's not ridicule.
哦，原来这不是嘲讽啊。
It's more like--
它更像是——
It's more like oh, they're so cute.
更像是哦，他们太可爱了。
Yeah, oh look at that cute foreigner.
是啊，哦，看看那个可爱的外国人。
He's trying to speak Chinese.
他正在尝试说中文。
It's so adorable.
真是太可爱了。
This is the treatment that foreigners get even when the subject is completely dead serious.
这就是外国人得到的待遇，即使话题完全严肃。
Leif Rogers says that he's been on Chinese TV over 100 times in his seven years in China, mostly on talk shows, discussing charity fundraising for various causes that he organizes in his job at a Chinese bank.
莱夫·罗杰斯表示，在中国的七年里，他上过中国电视节目 100 多次，大部分是在脱口秀节目中，讨论他在一家中国银行工作时组织的各种慈善筹款活动。
I'm sure you've talked to quite a few people regarding this.
我相信你已经和很多人谈过这个问题了。
I mean, right in the middle of a serious interview on a talk show about-- here we are talking about the victims of the earthquake in Sichuan, and then they'll say well, can you sing a song now?
我的意思是，在一个脱口秀节目的严肃采访中，我们正在谈论四川地震的受害者，然后他们会说，好吧，你现在可以唱首歌吗？
And then I'm like, no, of course I can't.
然后我想，不，我当然不能。
And they're like no, no, no, you can sing a song.
他们就像不，不，不，你可以唱一首歌。
And they'll name some John Denver tune or something that's popular over here.
他们会说出一些约翰·丹佛的歌曲或这里流行的歌曲。
"Yesterday, Once More." And then they'll get the audience cheering and everything.
“昨天，又来了。”然后他们会让观众欢呼等等。
And you know, no, I'm not going to sing a song here.
你知道，不，我不会在这里唱歌。
Then they're clearly disappointed.
然后他们显然很失望。
Oh my.
天哪。
And are they doing that because you're a foreigner?
他们这样做是因为你是外国人吗？
Or they would just do that to anybody who's sitting there?
或者他们只会对坐在那儿的任何人这样做？
The thing is, is a Chinese person would sing the song right away, no problem.
问题是，中国人会马上唱这首歌，没问题。
So I think that it's more interesting when the foreigner does it.
所以我觉得外国人做的更有趣。
It's more interesting when the foreigner does it.
外国人做的时候更有趣。
In the remote areas of China, lots of people have still never met or seen a foreigner.
在中国的偏远地区，很多人仍然从未见过或见过外国人。
Though in the big cities, it's different.
虽然在大城市，情况却有所不同。
There's so many foreigners these days, that in day to day life in certain areas, they are not a novelty at all.
现在外国人太多了，在某些地区的日常生活中，他们已经不是什么新鲜事了。
Americans living in China who've been living there for years and years, no surprise, see things about China and the incredible changes in China going on right now that we here in the United States have never heard of, only have a hazy notion of, or just have wrong.
生活在中国已经生活了很多年的美国人毫不奇怪地看到了有关中国的事情以及中国正在发生的令人难以置信的变化，而我们美国人从未听说过，只有一个模糊的概念，或者只是有错误的。
Evan Osnos arrived in China in 1996.
埃文·奥斯诺斯于1996年抵达中国。
And yes, he was asked to take a bit part in a Chinese movie his second month in the country.
是的，他在来中国的第二个月就被邀请参演一部中国电影。
These days, he writes about China for The New Yorker.
如今，他为《纽约客》撰写有关中国的文章。
And he says he struggle sometimes to explain, not just in his writing, but to friends back home, what it is like to live in China.
他说，有时他很难向家乡的朋友解释在中国生活的感受，不仅是在自己的写作中。
For instance, if you're living in America, he says, China just seems like this powerful, possibly threatening, world power, ready right now to dominate the world.
例如，如果你生活在美国，他说，中国看起来就像一个强大的、可能具有威胁性的世界强国，现在已经准备好主宰世界。
But actually, once you start to spend time in China or start to understand a little bit about how the Chinese see their place in the world, it becomes a lot harder to picture them thinking that they're ready to do that.
但实际上，一旦你开始在中国待一段时间，或者开始稍微了解一下中国人如何看待自己在世界上的地位，就很难想象他们认为自己已经准备好这样做了。
And that's simply because the Chinese self-image is still in so many ways, very, very, very, very-- it's of a very weak country.
这仅仅是因为中国的自我形象在很多方面仍然是一个非常非常弱的国家。
They see themselves as being very weak.
他们认为自己非常弱小。
There was just a poll that came out in the United States that shows that most people in the world, for the first time, now think that China is the world's most important economic power.
刚刚美国公布的一项民意调查显示，世界上大多数人现在第一次认为中国是世界上最重要的经济大国。
Most people think that in Europe.
大多数人认为在欧洲。
Most people think that in the United States.
大多数人在美国都是这样认为的。
But in China, people don't think that.
但在中国，人们不这么认为。
Only something like less than a quarter of the people they talked to actually think that China's an economic power in the world.
只有不到四分之一的受访者真正认为中国是世界经济强国。
I mean, even in the cities, the biggest cities in China-- Beijing and Shanghai and so on-- one in every three people doesn't have their own kitchen or toilet.
我的意思是，即使在城市，中国最大的城市——北京和上海等——也有三分之一的人没有自己的厨房或厕所。
So it's not to say that China's meek and that it doesn't want to make an imprint on the planet.
因此，这并不是说中国很温顺，不想在地球上留下印记。
Of course, it does.
当然，确实如此。
And it plans to.
它计划这样做。
But its own self-image is that at the moment it remains a big, poor country with a lot of very, very poor people in it.
但它自己的自我形象是，目前它仍然是一个贫穷的大国，里面有很多非常非常贫穷的人。
And I think that's hard to picture from far away.
我认为从远处很难想象这一点。
Well today on our radio program, "Americans Living in China," what it is like to be there and what do they see, living there, that we don't see.
今天在我们的广播节目《生活在中国的美国人》中，我们将介绍在那里生活的感受以及他们看到的、我们看不到的东西。
They interpret for us this hour.
他们这个时间为我们翻译。
From WBEZ Chicago, it's This American Life, distributed by Public Radio International.
这是来自芝加哥 WBEZ 的《This American Life》，由国际公共广播电台发行。
I'm Ira Glass.
我是艾拉·格拉斯。
Stay with us.
留在我们身边。
Act One.
第一幕。
Why'd You Have To Go and Make Things so Complicated?
为什么你必须让事情变得如此复杂？
There are about 70,000 Americans living in mainland China today, according to the Chinese and American governments.
据中美两国政府统计，目前约有 7 万美国人生活在中国大陆。
A lot of the Americans in China only stay for a few years.
许多美国人在中国只停留几年。
But then there are others, American expats who've lived in China for a decade or more, with no foreseeable plans to come home.
但还有其他一些人，即在中国生活了十年或更长时间的美国侨民，没有可预见的回国计划。
Who are they?
他们是谁？
And how Chinese do they become?
他们如何成为中国人？
Evan Osnos has this story, which starts with an expat named Kaiser Kuo.
埃文·奥斯诺斯 (Evan Osnos) 有这样一个故事，故事要从一位名叫郭凯泽 (Kaiser Kuo) 的外国人开始。
Kaiser Kuo's parents were born in China.
郭凯撒的父母出生在中国。
They lived through the Japanese bombing during World War II and then Revolution.
他们经历了二战期间日本的轰炸和革命。
They immigrated to the United States as teenagers and fell in love with each other and with the United States.
他们十几岁时移民到美国，并爱上了彼此和美国。
They loved the Kennedys and the Apollo moon walk and Dr. Spock's child rearing books.
他们喜欢肯尼迪家族、阿波罗月球漫步以及斯波克博士的育儿书籍。
Their wedding photo shows a young man in Buddy Holly glasses and slick hair in an all-white suit, next to a beautiful young woman also all in white, standing together in bright, white California sunshine.
他们的结婚照上，一位戴着巴迪·霍利眼镜、头发光滑、穿着全白西装的年轻男子，旁边是一位同样身穿白衣的美丽年轻女子，在加州明亮的白色阳光下站在一起。
They plucked Kaiser's first name out of an American book of baby names, if you can believe it.
如果你相信的话，他们从一本美国婴儿名字书中摘下了凯撒的名字。
Kaiser's father, in particular, was smitten with America.
凯撒的父亲尤其对美国着迷。
Here's Kaiser.
这里是凯撒。
My father told me once-- and really, it broke my heart-- he said he never touched his father until his father's funeral, when he finally touched his corpse.
我父亲曾经告诉过我——真的，这让我心碎——他说他从来没有碰过他的父亲，直到他父亲的葬礼上，当他终于触摸了他的尸体时。
Really?
真的吗？
Kaiser Kuo Yeah.
郭凯撒 是的。
They never embraced.
他们从未拥抱过。
I mean, I have this really affectionate family.
我的意思是，我有一个非常温馨的家庭。
I mean, we hug.
我的意思是，我们拥抱。
We kiss.
我们亲吻。
My dad always kissed us goodnight.
我爸爸总是吻我们道晚安。
I mean, I think this is part of their embrace of America.
我的意思是，我认为这是他们拥抱美国的一部分。
It's like, we're going to do things this New World way.
就像，我们将以新世界的方式做事。
The New World way meant Kaiser and his three siblings grew up with kickball, pool parties in the backyard, camping trips, a bad high school rock band.
新世界的生活方式意味着凯撒和他的三个兄弟姐妹是在踢球、后院泳池派对、露营旅行和糟糕的高中摇滚乐队的陪伴下长大的。
But all of that was constantly mixed in with stories about China.
但所有这些都不断地与有关中国的故事混合在一起。
Their father kept a whiteboard next to the dinner table and sometimes wrote Chinese expressions on it during the meal.
他们的父亲在餐桌旁边放了一块白板，有时吃饭时会在上面写中文表达。
As much as they loved the United States, both parents never stopped missing China.
尽管父母深爱美国，但他们从未停止过对中国的思念。
When the kids got out of college, China had begun to open up.
当孩子们大学毕业时，中国已经开始开放。
And after so many years of learning about the country, three out of the four siblings moved to Beijing.
经过这么多年对这个国家的了解，四兄弟姐妹中的三人搬到了北京。
They already spoke some Mandarin, and each of them became missionaries of a certain kind, for different parts of American culture.
他们已经会说一些普通话，并且每个人都成为美国文化不同部分的某种类型的传教士。
One brother, Jay, was active in the early gay scene in Beijing.
其中一位兄弟杰伊 (Jay) 活跃于北京早期的同性恋圈子。
Mimi opened one of the city's first US-style yoga studios.
咪咪开设了该市第一家美式瑜伽工作室之一。
But only one of the siblings has stayed in China to this day-- Kaiser, who brought rock and roll.
但至今，兄弟姐妹中只有一位留在了中国——带来了摇滚乐的凯撒。
It was his contribution-- part of it, anyway-- to the two generation obsession in this family-- the US, China, and how to build a life that straddles both.
这是他对这个家庭中两代人的痴迷所做的贡献——无论如何，是其中的一部分——美国、中国，以及如何建立横跨两国的生活。
Before Kaiser, for thousands of years in China, people had been listening to this.
在凯撒之前，中国几千年来，人们一直在听这个。
[MUSIC PLAYING - CHINESE CLASSICAL MUSIC]
【音乐播放-中国古典音乐】
Or maybe some of this.
或者也许是其中一些。
[MUSIC PLAYING - CHINESE POP MUSIC]
[音乐播放-华语流行音乐]
Then along came Kaiser with long hair, head banging, and this.
然后凯撒出现了，长发，撞头，还有这个。
[MUSIC PLAYING - CHINESE ROCK MUSIC BY TANG DYNASTY]
[音乐播放-中国唐代摇滚乐]
Kaiser was the lead guitarist and co-founder of a heavy metal band called Tang Dynasty, one of the first rock bands in China.
凯撒是中国最早的摇滚乐队之一的重金属乐队唐朝的主音吉他手和联合创始人。
A whole generation of Chinese kids, the ones who were interested in loud Western-style music, grew up with Tang Dynasty.
整整一代中国孩子，那些对喧闹的西式音乐感兴趣的孩子，都是伴随着唐朝长大的。
By the mid-1990s, with Kaiser on guitar and his best friend, a Chinese guy named Ding Wu as lead singer, the band was huge, and getting bigger all the time.
到了 20 世纪 90 年代中期，Kaiser 担任吉他手，他最好的朋友、一个名叫丁武的中国人担任主唱，乐队规模庞大，而且规模不断扩大。
The number one song, stadium crowds.
排名第一的歌曲，体育场人群。
Kaiser sometimes looked out from the stage on 30,000 people singing back to them.
凯撒有时会从舞台上看到 30,000 名观众向他们唱歌。
People recognized him on the street.
人们在街上认出了他。
Things were great.
一切都很棒。
Until May of 1999.
直到1999年5月。
One morning, I wake up.
一天早上，我醒来。
And it's my brother, my little brother on the phone, telling me oh my god, turn on the news.
是我的兄弟，我的小兄弟在打电话，告诉我天哪，打开新闻吧。
The US has just blown up the Chinese embassy in Belgrade.
美国刚刚炸毁了中国驻贝尔格莱德大使馆。
China says it is outraged after 4 people die and 20 are injured, when NATO bombs hit the Chinese embassy in Belgrade.
中国驻贝尔格莱德大使馆遭北约炸弹袭击，造成4人死亡、20人受伤，中方对此表示愤怒。
You may not remember this.
你可能不记得这一点了。
But lots of Chinese people do.
但很多中国人都这样做。
There's a Chinese monument to it in Belgrade.
贝尔格莱德有一座中国纪念碑。
And the incident is taught in Chinese schools as an example of how superpowers like the United States-- and I'm reading here from a junior high curriculum-- put their interests above world peace and development and use their military advantage to attack whomever they want.
这起事件在中国的学校里被作为一个例子，说明像美国这样的超级大国——我正在读初中课程——如何将自己的利益置于世界和平与发展之上，并利用其军事优势攻击任何他们想要攻击的人。
It was the NATO bombing campaign in Yugoslavia, intended to protect ethnic Albanians.
这是北约对南斯拉夫的轰炸行动，旨在保护阿尔巴尼亚人。
And an American B2 bomber flying over Belgrade dropped five bombs on the Chinese embassy.
一架美国B2轰炸机飞越贝尔格莱德上空，向中国大使馆投下了五枚炸弹。
Three Chinese citizens were killed.
三名中国公民被杀。
In America, people saw it as an accident.
在美国，人们认为这是一次意外。
Not in China.
不在中国。
My lead singer, my then-girlfriend, and I walked down to the embassy district to see what's happening around the US Embassy.
我的主唱、我当时的女朋友和我走到使馆区，看看美国大使馆周围发生了什么。
And then everyone's there, shouting at us, saying hey, Tang Dynasty's here in solidarity with the people who are protesting against American hegemony.
然后每个人都在那里对我们大喊，嘿，唐朝在这里声援那些抗议美国霸权的人们。
Of course, that wasn't my take on it at all.
当然，这根本不是我的看法。
I was thinking-- I thought this through and said, this couldn't have been done deliberately.
我在想,我想了想,这不可能是故意的。
This must have been some kind of an accident.
这一定是某种意外。
So initially, they kind of saw things my way.
所以最初，他们以我的方式看待事物。
I laid out what I thought was a pretty reasonable case.
我列出了我认为相当合理的案例。
But it changed really quickly.
但情况改变得很快。
That very evening, we get a call from our manager who says, look, I'm going to get you guys on a plane tomorrow.
就在那天晚上，我们接到经理的电话，他说，我明天会送你们上飞机。
We're flying you down to Shenzhen.
我们将带您飞往深圳。
And you're going to take part in this peace concert.
你将参加这场和平音乐会。
[SPEAKING CHINESE (SHOUTING)] Kaiser Kuo So they set up a stage in front of the whole thing.
[说中文（喊叫）] Kaiser Kuo 所以他们在整个事情之前搭建了一个舞台。
And they bussed in all these people who were wearing color-coordinated t-shirts that say [SPEAKING CHINESE].
他们载着这些穿着颜色协调 T 恤、写着“说中文”的人。
Today China says no. And I realize that this is not a peace rally, that this is an anti-American rally.
今天中国说不。我意识到这不是和平集会，这是反美集会。
It's kind of the opposite of a peace rally, essentially.
本质上，这与和平集会相反。
So my hackles are up.
所以我的汗毛竖起来了。
And this camera swings into my face.
这台相机摆到了我的脸上。
And it's live, and I didn't know this either, at the time.
而且它是现场直播，而我当时也不知道这一点。
And they ask me, you're an American.
他们问我，你是美国人。
Tell me about your reaction to what's happened.
告诉我你对所发生的事情的反应。
And I said, I come here in the interest of peace.
我说，我来这里是为了和平。
And I said, by peace, I don't mean just peace between the Kosovars and the Serbs, not just peace between the Yugoslav Federation and NATO, but also-- and most importantly-- peace between China and the United States after this tragic, tragic accident.
我说过，我所说的和平，不仅仅指科索沃人和塞尔维亚人之间的和平，也不仅仅指南斯拉夫联邦和北约之间的和平，而且最重要的是，在这场悲惨的悲剧事故之后，中国和美国之间的和平。
And at the word "accident," of course, everyone's face just blanches.
当然，听到“意外”这个词，每个人的脸色都变白了。
The camera swings away.
摄影机摇开。
People start yelling at me.
人们开始对我大喊大叫。
And then I can see that-- I figured that my band mates who were nearby me were mad because they immediately distanced themselves from me.
然后我就看到了——我认为我附近的乐队成员很生气，因为他们立即与我保持了距离。
I mean, we're on stage under this Styrofoam and wood mock-up of the burned-out embassy complex.
我的意思是，我们站在被烧毁的大使馆建筑群的聚苯乙烯泡沫塑料和木材模型下的舞台上。
And it's teetering.
而且它摇摇欲坠。
And when we finally get up there to play, the lead singer sort of looks at me, glowers at me and then starts saying today, the Chinese people will no longer be bullied by Americans.
当我们最终上台演奏时，主唱看着我，怒视着我，然后开始说，今天中国人民将不再被美国人欺负。
And [MUMBLES].
还有[咕哝]。
And he shoots me a couple looks.
他看了我几眼。
Now this is like my best friend for 10 years.
现在这就像我十年来最好的朋友。
The tension in the band got a lot worse.
乐队里的紧张气氛变得更加紧张。
And Kaiser left, before he could be forced out.
凯撒在被驱逐之前就离开了。
And the rage across China didn't die down.
中国各地的愤怒并未平息。
It got worse.
情况变得更糟了。
Police were allowing students to demonstrate.
警方允许学生示威。
The government was even encouraging protests, which are usually against the law in China.
政府甚至鼓励抗议活动，这在中国通常是违法的。
They grew into the most violent anti-American demonstrations in years.
它们演变成了多年来最暴力的反美示威活动。
People set fire to the home of the American Consul General in the city of Chengdu and stoned the American Embassy in Beijing, while the diplomats barricaded themselves inside.
人们放火烧毁了美国驻成都总领事的住所，并向美国驻北京大使馆投掷石块，而外交官们则将自己关在里面。
President Clinton apologized for the bombing, said it was a tragic mistake, the result of an outdated map.
克林顿总统为爆炸事件道歉，称这是一个悲惨的错误，是一张过时的地图造成的。
They'd thought it was a military office.
他们以为这是一个军事办公室。
Chinese television quoted his apology, but left out the part about it being a mistake.
中国电视台引用了他的道歉，但省略了有关这是一个错误的部分。
For more than 100 years, China has seen itself as being bullied by foreign powers.
一百多年来，中国一直认为自己受到外国列强的欺凌。
And throughout the Cold War, when the US led the international fight against communism, the biggest bully was the United States.
而整个冷战时期，当美国领导国际反共斗争时，最大的恶霸就是美国。
I've got a Chinese cartoon from the age of Chairman Mao that shows the following image-- an obese Uncle Sam sitting on a pile of money, waving a cigar at Chinese workers in a cage.
我有一幅毛主席时代的中国漫画，上面有这样的画面——肥胖的山姆大叔坐在一堆钱上，向笼子里的中国工人挥舞着雪茄。
There were images like that everywhere in the '60s and '70s.
六十年代、七十年代，这样的画面随处可见。
But that anti-American image had gotten a lot harder to sell after China went for the free market.
但在中国走向自由市场之后，这种反美形象变得更加难以推销。
And after the Chinese public had spent the 1980s and '90s falling for one Western idea after another-- Sigmund Freud, Ernest Hemingway, blue jeans, Hotel California-- the Communist party had been facing a kind of identity crisis.
在中国公众在 20 世纪 80 年代和 90 年代迷恋一个又一个西方思想——西格蒙德·弗洛伊德、欧内斯特·海明威、蓝色牛仔裤、加州旅馆——之后，共产党一直面临着一种身份危机。
But then came the Belgrade bombing.
但随后发生了贝尔格莱德爆炸事件。
And America the boogeyman came right back.
美国这个妖怪马上又回来了。
I have yet to meet a single Chinese person, to this day-- I mean, like somebody who hasn't at least spent their life outside of China-- who doesn't believe that this was a conspiracy, that this is a deliberate act.
直到今天，我还没有遇到过一个中国人——我的意思是，像那些至少没有在中国以外度过一生的人一样——不相信这是一个阴谋，这是一个蓄意的行为。
That the United States deliberately attacked the Chinese embassy in Belgrade?
美国故意袭击中国驻贝尔格莱德大使馆？
That's right.
这是正确的。
I didn't get a sense for how enraged people were.
我不明白人们有多么愤怒。
And that was part of my mistake.
这是我错误的一部分。
I think that I was pretty cavalier about just how deep that stuff ran.
我认为我对这些东西的深入程度相当漫不经心。
The whole month of May of 1999 was actually the moment when I felt my American-ness.
1999年5月的整整一个月，实际上是我感受到自己的美国性的时刻。
For the preceding three or four years, I didn't have a lot to do with expatriates here.
在过去的三四年里，我与这里的外籍人士没有太多来往。
I didn't speak a lot of English.
我没说太多英语。
The women that I dated were Chinese.
我约会过的女人都是中国人。
The life that I led was quintessentially Chinese.
我的生活是典型的中国式生活。
The vast majority of my friends were Chinese.
我的绝大多数朋友都是中国人。
That was a moment of incredible realization for me, that there's still a chasm that I'll probably never actually be able to cross.
那一刻让我难以置信地意识到，仍然存在着一条我可能永远无法真正跨越的鸿沟。
That chasm is something almost any long-term expat in China encounters at some point.
几乎所有在中国长期居住的外国人都会在某个时候遇到这种鸿沟。
I know a guy from Texas whose moment like this came when the Beijing government bulldozed his barbecue joint.
我认识一个来自德克萨斯州的人，当北京政府推平他的烧烤店时，他就迎来了这样的时刻。
For me, it was year three, after I'd learned the language and moved into a Chinese neighborhood, where I loved not having to run into foreigners all the time, even though my job was to write about China for a foreign audience.
对我来说，那是第三年，我学会了语言并搬进了一个中国社区，在那里我很喜欢不用一直遇到外国人，尽管我的工作是为外国读者撰写有关中国的文章。
And then one day, this fax came into my office.
然后有一天，这份传真来到了我的办公室。
It said, in Chinese, correct your misunderstandings or you and your family will wish you were dead.
它用中文说，纠正你的误解，否则你和你的家人会希望你死掉。
It turned out the fax was a response to articles some journalists had written about a recent uprising in Tibet.
事实证明，这份传真是对一些记者撰写的有关西藏最近发生的起义的文章的回应。
It was spam.
这是垃圾邮件。
Reporters got it whether they'd written about Tibet or not.
无论记者是否写过有关西藏的文章，他们都会得到这一点。
But there it was.
但它就在那里。
That fax was so completely out of character with everything else in my life here.
那份传真与我在这里生活的其他一切完全不符。
It made me embarrassed about all that effort to make myself as close as I could to China.
这让我为尽可能接近中国而付出的努力感到尴尬。
It made me wonder if the enthusiasm was mutual.
这让我想知道这种热情是否是相互的。
You get over these moments as an expat here.
作为一名外籍人士，你可以克服这些时刻。
You go back to living with the knowledge that most of the time you'll be welcomed, treated with grace.
当你回到生活中时，你知道大多数时候你都会受到欢迎，受到优雅的对待。
But in the back of your mind, you know there will be another day, someday, when you suddenly find yourself an outsider.
但在你内心深处，你知道总有一天，有一天，你会突然发现自己是一个局外人。
Mi-mi-mi-mi-mi-mi-mi.
咪咪咪咪咪咪咪咪。
Kaiser Kuo I'm going to get some water.
郭凯撒 我去拿点水。
Kaiser's warming up for this weekly podcast he does.
凯撒正在为每周播客做热身。
It's called Sinica, usually a lineup of expats in China, hosted by Kaiser and his friend Jeremy Goldkorn.
它被称为 Sinica，通常由在中国的外籍人士组成，由 Kaiser 和他的朋友 Jeremy Goldkorn 主持。
He's South African, another long-term expat.
他是南非人，也是一位长期移居国外的人。
It's just for fun.
这只是为了好玩。
It's not their job.
这不是他们的工作。
Today, besides Kaiser and Jeremy, it's three journalists, including me, because I'm following Kaiser for this story.
今天，除了 Kaiser 和 Jeremy 之外，还有包括我在内的三位记者，因为我正在关注 Kaiser 的报道。
Jeremy, you need to talk a little bit to make sure you're--
杰里米，你需要说一点以确保你——
I need to talk a little bit?
我需要说一点吗？
Kaiser Kuo Hey Dave?
郭凯撒 嘿，戴夫？
Am I talking?
我在说话吗？
Kaiser Kuo Would you be able to grab me a beer?
Kaiser Kuo 能给我一杯啤酒吗？
It's informal, clearly.
显然，这是非正式的。
We're all sitting in yet another expat's third-floor walk up in the Dong Cheng neighborhood in Beijing.
我们都坐在北京东城社区另一位外国人的三楼走廊里。
Everyone here has known each other for years.
这里的每个人都已经认识多年了。
I used to be a reporter in the Middle East.
我曾经是一名中东记者。
But in China, the expats are different.
但在中国，外国人就不一样了。
More of them speak the local languages and they don't expect to go to another posting every four or five years.
他们中的更多人会说当地语言，并且他们不希望每四五年就去另一个职位。
They're usually here because they're interested in China specifically, not because they were drawn by the drama of a war or the perks of a place that's cheaper than home.
他们来这里通常是因为对中国特别感兴趣，而不是因为战争的戏剧性或比国内便宜的地方的福利所吸引。
They want to be in China.
他们想在中国。
Welcome to the Sinica podcast, a weekly discussion of current affairs in China coming to you from the pop-up Chinese studios here in Beijing.
欢迎来到《Sinica》播客，每周都会在北京的临时中文工作室中讨论中国时事。
I'm your host, Kaiser Kuo.
我是你们的主持人郭凯泽。
Kaiser's 46, still has long hair, And his podcast gets as many as 10,000 listeners a week, mostly expats who've encountered him over the years, who have read things he's written.
Kaiser 46 岁了，仍然留着长发，他的播客每周有多达 10,000 名听众，其中大部分是多年来见过他、读过他写的东西的外国人。
After he left the band, Kaiser knew he couldn't continue trying to be Chinese.
离开乐队后，凯撒知道他不能继续尝试成为中国人。
He was an American, a foreign expatriate, living in China.
他是美国人，是居住在中国的外籍人士。
And he had to embrace that.
他必须接受这一点。
And now after so many years, he's a kind of uber-expat in Beijing, a convener, a traffic cop who stands at the intersection of China and the foreigners trying to make sense of it.
这么多年过去了，现在他成了北京的一名超级外籍人士，一名召集人，一名站在中国和外国人的交汇处试图理解这一点的交通警察。
It's almost impossible to be a foreigner in Beijing and not hear about Kaiser.
作为一个在北京的外国人，几乎不可能不听说过凯撒。
Kaiser turns for an update to Gady Epstein, who's been in China off and on for 10 years and now writes for The Economist, which has just added a new part to the magazine, a China section.
凯撒请来了盖迪·爱泼斯坦 (Gady Epstein) 的最新情况，她断断续续地在中国呆了 10 年，现在为《经济学人》撰稿，该杂志刚刚在该杂志上增加了一个新部分，即中国版块。
Now I understand that this is the first time that your magazine has added a country-specific section since, what?
现在我知道这是你们的杂志第一次添加针对特定国家/地区的部分，什么？
1942?
1942 年？
Since basically about a month after Pearl Harbor.
基本上是珍珠港事件发生一个月后。
70 years ago to the month, we started-- The Economist started-- its America survey, where we did we were devoting special attention to the United States.
70 年前的那个月，我们开始——《经济学人》开始了——美国调查，我们特别关注美国。
And this is the first time they've added a country since then.
这是自那时以来他们第一次添加一个国家。
So what are we expecting from the new China section besides the arch and condescending editorializing that we've come to know and love?
那么，除了我们所熟悉和喜爱的那些拱门和居高临下的社论之外，我们对新的中国版块还有什么期待呢？
Well, we are going to expand on our ability to be arch and condescending.
好吧，我们将增强我们居高临下的能力。
Ah, well, very good.
啊，嗯，非常好。
Gady Epstein We're also going to-- I mean, coincidentally with that, have more coverage of China.
盖迪·爱泼斯坦（Gady Epstein）：我的意思是，巧合的是，我们还将对中国进行更多报道。
The conversation moves on to what name The Economist will give its new China blog.
谈话转向《经济学人》将为其新的中国博客命名的问题。
We don't have one yet.
我们还没有。
We solicited people to nominate their own suggestions for the China blog.
我们征求人们对中国博客提出自己的建议。
Really?
真的吗？
What have you heard so far, Jeremy?
杰里米，到目前为止你听到了什么？
Well, they were kind of like dragon and silk and--
嗯，它们有点像龙和丝绸，而且——
--bamboo curtain-- Gady Epstein --please have dragon, panda, bicycles and inscrutable, or some combination--
--竹帘--盖迪·爱泼斯坦--请有龙，熊猫，自行车和神秘的，或一些组合--
The Inscrutable Pearl of the Oriental Dragon panda.
东方龙熊猫的神秘明珠。
Sorry, too late.
对不起，太晚了。
I've already taken that.
我已经接受了。
So I think The Inscrutable Panda is not a bad choice.
所以我认为《神秘的熊猫》是一个不错的选择。
How about the China Slant?
中国倾斜怎么样？
Gady Epstein You sent me a few of those, offline, Kaiser.
盖迪·爱泼斯坦（Gady Epstein）你给我发了一些，离线的，凯撒。
And I was going to protect your reputation by not repeating them.
我打算不重蹈覆辙，以保护你的声誉。
As foreigners living in China, especially ones who write about it for a living, we're always trying to figure out how to explain China, not just to our readers and listeners, also to our friends and family and acquaintances.
作为生活在中国的外国人，尤其是那些以写中国为生的外国人，我们总是试图弄清楚如何解释中国，不仅向我们的读者和听众，也向我们的朋友、家人和熟人。
We know that looking at the country from far away, for instance, from the United States, it can be difficult to make out the proportions here.
我们知道，从远处（例如从美国）看这个国家，可能很难看出这里的比例。
Parts of it seem very American, the friendliness, the conspicuous consumption, the drive, pride in the sheer size of the country and belief in the country's exceptionalism and the arrogance that goes with that.
它的某些部分看起来非常美国化，友善、炫耀性消费、动力、对国家幅员辽阔的自豪感、对国家例外论的信仰以及随之而来的傲慢。
Also the ambition, and the anxiety among the ambitious, about getting your kids into the right kindergarten.
还有雄心勃勃的雄心壮志，以及雄心勃勃的人对让孩子进入合适的幼儿园的焦虑。
But then parts of it are straight out of the Cold War.
但其中的一部分是直接源于冷战的。
We don't really have a good word for what China is now.
对于现在的中国，我们实在没有什么好话。
Totalitarianism isn't right.
极权主义是不对的。
But, of course, it's not politically free in any sense of the word.
但是，当然，它在任何意义上都不是政治自由的。
When I sit down to write, I'm looking at facts that are sometimes in direct contradiction with each other, and are also in motion.
当我坐下来写作时，我所看到的事实有时彼此直接矛盾，而且也在不断变化。
Do I lead with the fact that the income of the average citizen here doubled in 12 years, a process that took 50 years in America?
我是否以这里普通公民的收入在 12 年内翻了一番（这个过程在美国花了 50 年）这一事实作为开头？
Or the fact that around 150 million Chinese people, the equivalent of half the population of the United States, still live on $1 a day?
或者大约1.5亿中国人，相当于美国人口的一半，仍然每天靠1美元生活？
How does any expat answer the question, so what's happening in China these days?
外国人如何回答这个问题，那么最近中国发生了什么？
So welcome everyone to Baidu.
所以欢迎大家百度一下。
My name's Kaiser Kuo.
我叫郭凯撒。
I'm director of international communications here.
我是这里的国际传播总监。
Kaiser's job now, and for the last few years, has been spokesman for Baidu, which is a big deal.
凯撒现在以及过去几年的工作一直是百度的发言人，这是一件大事。
It's China's biggest search engine, basically China's Google.
它是中国最大的搜索引擎，基本上就是中国的谷歌。
He's their English language spokesman.
他是他们的英语发言人。
And here he's talking to a group of American MBA students.
在这里，他正在与一群美国 MBA 学生交谈。
He does this sort of thing a lot in his job.
他在工作中经常做这样的事情。
It's an hour-long presentation that's part speech, part Q&A.
这是一个长达一小时的演讲，一半是演讲，一半是问答。
--any questions you might have, feel absolutely free to ask whatever's on your mind.
——如果您有任何疑问，请随时提出您的想法。
We are very much on the record.
我们非常有记录。
So anything that you can say, I will either try to weasel out of delicately or will try to give you the most blunt answer that I'm able to muster.
因此，无论你能说什么，我要么会巧妙地回避，要么会尽力给你我能想到的最直率的答案。
Kaiser has to be delicate.
凯撒必须是精致的。
His job has put him deeper inside a Chinese company than most Americans ever get.
他的工作使他比大多数美国人更深入地了解一家中国公司。
He's the face of one of the most important companies in the country, one that, in order to stay in business, works hand-in-glove with the Chinese government's strict censorship policies, meaning much of the time now Kaiser's speaking from the Chinese side of the chasm.
他是该国最重要公司之一的代言人，该公司为了维持业务，与中国政府严格的审查政策密切合作，这意味着凯撒现在大部分时间都是站在鸿沟的中国一侧发表讲话。
Kaiser starts with the basics, explaining how big the Chinese internet is, much bigger than most Americans realize.
凯撒从基础知识开始，解释了中国互联网的规模，比大多数美国人意识到的要大得多。
By last count, a whopping 513 million people using the internet in China.
根据最新统计，中国有高达 5.13 亿人使用互联网。
That's more than the US, Canada, and Mexico combined.
这比美国、加拿大和墨西哥的总和还多。
And since Americans often mistakenly think Baidu is a government-owned and run company-- it's not-- Kaiser talks about how Baidu is a private company.
由于美国人经常错误地认为百度是一家政府拥有和运营的公司——事实并非如此——凯撒谈到了百度为何是一家私营公司。
It's dominated not only every American search engine that's tried to muscle in, but also recent attempts by the Chinese government to create a state-run competitor.
它不仅主导了所有试图介入的美国搜索引擎，而且还主导了中国政府最近试图创建一个国营竞争对手的尝试。
On a big screen, with help from his colleague, Betty, he does searches and shows some of Baidu's features.
在同事贝蒂的帮助下，他在大屏幕上进行搜索并展示了百度的一些功能。
And then at some point, he gets the question, the one he always gets from foreigners.
然后在某个时刻，他收到了这个问题，这是他总是从外国人那里得到的问题。
Yes?
是的？
In the back.
在后面。
Oh wait, you had a question.
哦等等，你有一个问题。
I did.
我做到了。
So we're staying at the Crowne Plaza.
所以我们住在皇冠假日酒店。
And when you log on to the internet, it says no Facebook, no YouTube, and I don't remember what else it said.
当你登录互联网时，它说没有 Facebook，没有 YouTube，我不记得它还说了什么。
Sure.
当然。
Man And correct me if I'm wrong, it's kind of-- what it appears to me that you guys have done, is kind of integrate those into your search.
伙计，如果我错了，请纠正我，在我看来，你们所做的就是将这些整合到您的搜索中。
So she was able to find a video on Coldplay, which it was almost like a YouTube video.
所以她在 Coldplay 上找到了一个视频，它几乎就像 YouTube 视频一样。
Do you guys really try to kind of push the limit against kind of what Big Brother tells you to do?
你们真的尝试挑战老大哥告诉你们做的事情的极限吗？
How much power do you have to say--
你到底有多大的权力——
Let me put it this way-- Man --no guys, let's look at this.
让我这样说——伙计——不，让我们看看这个。
Like I told this gentlemen here, we are a consumer-facing company, so we do not labor on the illusion that they want to have, as you say, Big Brother telling them what they can and cannot see.
就像我在这里告诉这位先生的那样，我们是一家面向消费者的公司，所以我们不会产生这样的幻想，即他们希望像你所说的那样，让老大哥告诉他们他们能看到什么和不能看到什么。
So our interest is in providing the consumers with exactly what they want.
因此，我们的兴趣在于为消费者提供他们真正想要的东西。
Our interests are also with abiding by the law.
遵守法律也是我们的利益所在。
So we have a line to walk.
所以我们有一条线要走。
This gentleman over here had a question.
这位先生有一个问题。
Internet censorship in China comes in a bunch of different forms.
中国的互联网审查有多种不同的形式。
Let's say you go to Google, which you can still do in China, even though they famously pulled out years ago.
假设你去谷歌，你在中国仍然可以这样做，尽管他们多年前就退出了。
They just relocated most of their servers to Hong Kong, which has different censorship laws.
他们刚刚将大部分服务器迁至香港，那里有不同的审查法。
So if you're in Beijing and you go on Google and enter a sensitive search term, for instance, Tiananmen Square, you'll get a full set of search results.
因此，如果您在北京，在 Google 上输入敏感搜索词（例如天安门广场），您将获得完整的搜索结果。
But if you try to click on any of the links that the government is blocking, then your computer will get weirdly slow.
但是，如果您尝试单击政府阻止的任何链接，那么您的计算机将会变得异常缓慢。
And then finally you'll get a message saying that page can't be shown.
最后你会收到一条消息，指出该页面无法显示。
But things are different on other search engines.
但在其他搜索引擎上情况有所不同。
If you try Baidu or Bing or any other company that has its servers located on mainland China, lots of links come up, no matter what you search for.
如果您尝试百度或必应或任何其他在中国大陆设有服务器的公司，无论您搜索什么，都会出现大量链接。
And you can access all the links.
您可以访问所有链接。
But only government-approved sites will show up.
但只有政府批准的网站才会出现。
You can't tell what's missing.
你无法分辨缺少什么。
It's seamless.
这是无缝的。
That's because the government distributes lists of forbidden subjects to all these companies and to China's version of Twitter, which is called Weibo.
这是因为政府向所有这些公司以及中国版的推特（即微博）分发了禁止主题列表。
And it's the company's job to self-censor, or they risk being shut down.
自我审查是公司的工作，否则他们就有被关闭的风险。
Then there are also, as you've probably heard, thousands of people patrolling the web in China every day, some paid by the government, others by the websites themselves.
此外，正如您可能听说的那样，每天都有数千人在中国的网络上巡逻，其中一些由政府付费，另一些则由网站本身付费。
They block and remove photos and films and articles.
他们屏蔽并删除照片、影片和文章。
Even more scrubbing is done by automated programs that look for anything forbidden or suspicious.
更多的清理工作是由自动程序完成的，这些程序会查找任何禁止或可疑的内容。
Sometimes the government demands that a site hand over information about specific people and what they do online, with severe consequences.
有时，政府要求网站交出有关特定人员及其在线行为的信息，这会带来严重后果。
A journalist named Shi Tao is serving a 10-year sentence on charges of leaking state secrets, because Yahoo helped the government identify him through his email account.
一名名叫师涛的记者因泄露国家机密罪名被判 10 年徒刑，因为雅虎通过他的电子邮件帐户帮助政府识别了他的身份。
There are new cases all the time.
一直有新病例出现。
More recently, a woman was sentenced to a year in a re-education through labor camp for forwarding a joke.
最近，一名妇女因转发笑话而被判劳教一年。
So when some Americans hear that internet companies like Baidu agree to all this in order to operate in China, they get mad.
因此，当一些美国人听说像百度这样的互联网公司为了在中国开展业务而同意这一切时，他们会很生气。
They want to hear that the company's fighting back.
他们希望听到该公司正在反击。
OK.
好的。
Here's the reality, though.
但这就是现实。
Yes, Baidu is the biggest, most powerful search engine in China.
是的，百度是中国最大、最强大的搜索引擎。
But the government is so vastly bigger and more powerful than Baidu or any other company or group of companies in the country.
但政府比百度或国内任何其他公司或公司集团都要大得多、权力大得多。
The government owns all the land, all the banks, all the TV stations, all the major newspapers.
政府拥有所有的土地、所有的银行、所有的电视台、所有的主要报纸。
And it controls the army and the police.
它控制着军队和警察。
It does what it wants.
它做它想做的事。
And it doesn't have to care what anyone thinks.
而且它不必关心任何人的想法。
Here's Kaiser.
这里是凯撒。
If you're not really profoundly conflicted by the things that you see here, then you just don't have your eyes open, right?
如果你对在这里看到的事物并没有真正深刻的矛盾，那么你只是没有睁开眼睛，对吗？
I mean, living here as an expatriate, you're going to see things that will cause your blood to boil.
我的意思是，作为一名外籍人士生活在这里，你会看到一些让你热血沸腾的事情。
But if you dwell in the house of indignation at all times, I mean, you're not going to hack it here.
但如果你一直住在愤怒的房子里，我的意思是，你就不会在这里破解它。
You hear versions of this all the time here, not only from expats, but from the Chinese themselves.
你在这里经常听到这样的说法，不仅来自外国人，也来自中国人自己。
To make it day-by-day in China, most people try to keep a narrow focus on the world in front of them.
为了在中国日复一日地生活，大多数人都试图将注意力集中在眼前的世界上。
Improve what they can, without getting overwhelmed by the bigger picture.
改进他们能做的事情，而不是被大局所淹没。
For an American epidemiologist I know, it means helping Chinese doctors fight the spread of HIV, even when the research draws on patients who've been rounded up by police.
对于我认识的一位美国流行病学家来说，这意味着帮助中国医生对抗艾滋病毒的传播，即使这项研究针对的是被警察围捕的患者。
An American lawyer working to reform Chinese courts realized she couldn't start with the problem of torture in police custody.
一位致力于改革中国法院的美国律师意识到她不能从警察拘留期间的酷刑问题入手。
She had to start with an even more basic problem-- the fact that most people who go on trial never get a lawyer.
她必须从一个更基本的问题开始——大多数接受审判的人都没有请律师。
But no matter how careful anyone here is, the fact is that the lines are never clear when it comes to running afoul of the government.
但无论这里的人多么小心，事实是，在与政府发生冲突时，界限从来都不清楚。
No matter how well someone understands China or how great their Chinese is, any expat or Chinese person can suddenly find themselves in a situation where they realize oh no.
无论一个人多么了解中国，或者他们的中文有多好，任何外国人或中国人都会突然发现自己处于一种意识到“哦不”的境地。
I overestimated my own ability to deal with a Leninist state.
我高估了自己应对列宁主义国家的能力。
This is Kaiser's friend Jeremy Goldkorn, the expat from South Africa who co-hosts the podcast with Kaiser.
这是凯撒的朋友杰里米·戈德科恩 (Jeremy Goldkorn)，他是一位来自南非的侨民，与凯撒共同主持了这个播客。
Jeremy is as smart and knowledgeable about China as almost anyone.
杰里米和几乎任何人一样聪明、了解中国。
He's lived here for 17 years.
他在这里住了17年。
And for a while, he had a groundbreaking website that covered Chinese media and the internet.
有一段时间，他拥有一个涵盖中国媒体和互联网的开创性网站。
It became huge.
它变得巨大。
Until one day after six years, it was blocked in China, just gone forever.
直到六年后的某一天，它在中国被屏蔽了，就这样一去不复返了。
An entire career plan shut down.
整个职业计划被关闭。
It was Jeremy's Belgrade moment, his version of Kaiser's band break-up after the Peace Concert.
这是杰里米的贝尔格莱德时刻，他对和平音乐会后凯撒乐队解散的版本。
Except Jeremy to this day has no idea what he did to be shut down.
但杰里米至今仍不知道他做了什么导致被关闭。
Which post or posts pushed his website over that line.
哪个帖子或哪些帖子把他的网站推到了那条线。
The full set of rules the censors use are known only to the government.
审查机构使用的全套规则只有政府知道。
And the rules change constantly without notice.
而且规则会不断变化，恕不另行通知。
There's no book you can keep on your shelf and consult to avoid getting into trouble.
没有一本书可以放在书架上供您查阅以避免陷入麻烦。
And as Jeremy says, there's no hotline to call and ask, comrade, why did you censor my website?
正如杰里米所说，没有热线可以打电话询问，同志，你为什么审查我的网站？
I mean I was always fairly cynical about China.
我的意思是，我一直对中国持相当愤世嫉俗的态度。
But after that, there was a certain part of me which is like so this is the way it is here.
但在那之后，我的某个部分就像是这里的样子。
And I was kidding myself thinking that I could just be daring enough to be interesting, but not daring enough to not really get into trouble.
我自欺欺人地认为，我可以大胆地变得有趣，但又不敢大胆地不陷入麻烦。
And it was do I stay or do I go.
问题是我该留下还是该走。
I think I was basically just quite numb for about a whole year, just not really knowing what to do.
我想我基本上已经麻木了大约一整年，只是不知道该怎么做。
So you have these two friends, Jeremy and Kaiser, both Western expats in China, one of whom has found a way to coexist with the government censorship, and the other who got hammered by it.
所以你有这两个朋友，杰里米和凯撒，他们都是在中国的西方侨民，其中一个找到了与政府审查制度共存的方法，另一个则受到了政府审查的打击。
So it's not surprising that Jeremy's take on China's censorship regime is different from Kaiser's.
因此，杰里米对中国审查制度的看法与凯撒不同也就不足为奇了。
Kaiser, like a lot of expats, says that he sees the present for what it is.
凯撒和许多外国人一样，表示他看到了当下的现状。
But he sees momentum toward better things.
但他看到了走向更好事物的动力。
Here's Jeremy's take.
这是杰里米的看法。
I mean, I broadly agree.
我的意思是，我大致同意。
But I think for the last two years, I've been a lot more pissed off about the censorship in China than he has.
但我认为在过去的两年里，我对中国的审查制度比他更加愤怒。
The things that should be black and white sometimes become a lot more blurry and a lot greyer.
本来应该是黑白的东西有时会变得更加模糊和灰色。
And people are less aware of the fact that there is, about certain things, a distinct difference between the way things are done here and elsewhere.
人们不太意识到这样一个事实：在某些事情上，这里和其他地方的做事方式存在明显差异。
Yeah, I mean, this is where I think it gets really interesting.
是的，我的意思是，这就是我认为真正有趣的地方。
Because I feel the longer I'm here, that the more I'm comfortable saying, oh this is complicated.
因为我觉得我在这里待的时间越长，我就越能轻松地说，哦，这很复杂。
You got to understand the whole picture.
你必须了解整个情况。
And every once in while, a friend will stop me and say, wait a second.
每隔一段时间，一个朋友就会拦住我说，等一下。
That's not complicated.
这并不复杂。
It's just not OK to refer to internet censorship as internet regulations or internet management.
将互联网审查称为互联网监管或互联网管理是不合适的。
And I do forget that.
我确实忘记了这一点。
I mean I think I do.
我的意思是我想我知道。
Yeah, I know what you mean.
是的，我知道你的意思。
I think once you get to know China, you do, yourself, tweak.
我认为一旦你了解了中国，你就会自己调整。
You make allowances.
你要留点余地。
You think that certain compromises are OK.
你认为某些妥协是可以的。
It's a big country.
这是一个大国。
There are too many people, too many poor people.
人太多了，穷人太多了。
It can't be run obviously the same as Norway or Sweden or even the United States.
它的运行方式显然不能像挪威、瑞典甚至美国那样。
I mean, I think it's one of the fundamental problems facing Chinese society right now is, the bar for everything is so low.
我的意思是，我认为中国社会目前面临的根本问题之一是，一切的门槛都很低。
Nobody's surprised that there's poison in the milk, because there is.
没有人会对牛奶中有毒感到惊讶，因为确实存在。
And this is China, therefore that's the way it is.
这就是中国，所以就是这样。
Therefore what are you going to do about it.
那么你打算怎么做呢？
And everybody's kind of fatalist.
每个人都是宿命论者。
As an expat in China, when you hear yourself using a government-issued phrase like internet management, or chalking things up to China being complicated, it can feel like a failure.
作为一名在中国的侨民，当你听到自己使用政府发布的诸如互联网管理之类的短语，或者将事情归因于中国的复杂性时，你可能会感觉自己很失败。
Or at least not the kind of understanding you set out to acquire.
或者至少不是你想要获得的那种理解。
You spend so many years studying and adapting and trying to cross that chasm, to glimpse the world from the Chinese perspective, to finally get inside China.
你花了这么多年的时间去学习、适应、试图跨越这条鸿沟，从中国人的角度看世界，最终走进中国。
And when you reach the destination, you have to remember not to forget where you come from.
当你到达目的地时，你要记住不要忘记你来自哪里。
What are you making?
你在做什么？
Guinevere Kuo Pancakes.
桂妮薇儿郭煎饼。
Kaiser's making breakfast for his two kids, seven-year-old Guinevere and six-year-old Johnny.
凯撒正在为他的两个孩子（七岁的吉尼维尔和六岁的约翰尼）做早餐。
His wife is Chinese, a native Beijinger he met while he was in Tang Dynasty.
他的妻子是中国人，是他在唐朝时认识的土生土长的北京人。
Kaiser's kids are growing up in China with a dad who talks to them all the time about the US, just like Kaiser's parents raised their kids in the US and talked to them all the time about China.
凯撒的孩子们在中国长大，父亲总是和他们谈论美国，就像凯撒的父母在美国抚养孩子并一直和他们谈论中国一样。
Kaiser's dream is to someday live half the year in China and half the year in the United States.
凯撒的梦想是有一天在中国生活一半，在美国生活一半。
But an even more basic dream of his is that the animosity between the two countries stops getting worse.
但他的一个更基本的梦想是两国之间的敌意停止恶化。
He said that the main thing he loses sleep over now is the relationship between China and the United States.
他说，现在最让他失眠的是中美关系。
I asked him if he meant it literally, whether it really keeps him up.
我问他这是否是字面上的意思，这是否真的能让他坚持下去。
Yeah.
是的。
It's literal.
这是字面意思。
I mean it's-- one thing that I can't do before I go to bed is look at the comments sections on any story related to China, because of just the viciousness that you're now seeing on both sides.
我的意思是，在睡觉前我不能做的一件事就是查看任何与中国有关的故事的评论部分，因为你现在看到双方的恶毒。
It's so depressing to watch this chasm opening up.
看着这条鸿沟打开真是令人沮丧。
I feel like the more they know about each other, essentially, the less they like each other.
我觉得他们对彼此了解越多，本质上，他们就越不喜欢对方。
Kaiser has created a life for himself in China that ignores the chasm, a life where it all fits together.
凯撒在中国为自己创造了一种无视鸿沟、融为一体的生活。
Americans who understand China, Chinese friends and family who understand the US.
美国人了解中国，中国朋友和家人了解美国。
And especially his kids, on their way to being totally bilingual and as bi-cultural as he can make them.
尤其是他的孩子们，他们正尽其所能地成为完全双语和双文化的人。
Looking at them it all seems possible.
看着他们，这一切似乎都是可能的。
In that way, he's very Chinese and very American.
从这一点来说，他既非常中国化，又非常美国化。
Evan Osnos.
埃文·奥斯诺斯.
He's a staff writer at The New Yorker .
他是《纽约客》的特约撰稿人。
And he writes a blog for them called "Letter from China."
他为他们写了一个博客，名为“来自中国的信”。
Coming up, the gossip in a tiny little village on the other side of the world.
即将到来的是世界另一边一个小村庄的八卦。
Our "Americans in China" show continues in a minute.
我们的“美国人在中国”节目一分钟后继续。
From Chicago Public Radio and Public Radio International, when our program continues.
当我们的节目继续进行时，来自芝加哥公共广播电台和国际公共广播电台。
It's This American Life.
这就是美国生活。
I'm Ira Glass.
我是艾拉·格拉斯。
Each week on our program, of course, we choose a theme, bring you different kinds of stories on that theme.
当然，我们每周的节目都会选择一个主题，为您带来有关该主题的不同类型的故事。
Today's program, "Americans in China," what's it like to live there for years and years and what they see that we back home have not seen.
今天的节目“美国人在中国”，在那里生活了很多年是什么感觉，以及他们看到了我们在家乡没有看到的东西。
We've arrived at Act Two of our program., Act Two, Beautiful Downtown Wasteland.
我们已经到了节目的第二幕。第二幕，美丽的市中心荒地。
There are so few farmers in the United States that in 1993, the census stopped counting the number of Americans who live on farms.
美国的农民如此之少，以至于 1993 年的人口普查不再统计住在农场的美国人的数量。
At the time, less than 2% of the population lived on a farm.
当时，只有不到 2% 的人口生活在农场。
Less than 1% now works full-time as farmers.
现在只有不到 1% 的人全职从事农民工作。
But in China, despite the vast migration to cities in recent years, more than half the country, half of all people in China, live on farms or rural areas.
但在中国，尽管近年来大量人口迁移到城市，但一半以上的国家、一半的中国人生活在农场或农村地区。
Michael Meyer is a writer whose first book, The Last Days of Old Beijing , detailed his three years living in Beijing's oldest neighborhood.
迈克尔·迈耶是一位作家，他的第一本书《老北京的最后岁月》详细描述了他在北京最古老的街区生活的三年。
Lately, though, he's been writing about living in rural China, specifically in the village that his wife comes from.
不过，最近他一直在写有关中国农村生活的文章，特别是他妻子来自的村庄。
In the movie Caddyshack , Rodney Dangerfield says that he and his partner Wang bought some property behind the Great Wall-- "on the good side." Manchuria, where I live, is on the other side, a place where exiles were once sent to the land beyond the pale.
在电影《球童小屋》中，罗德尼·丹泽菲尔德说，他和他的搭档王在长城后面买了一些房产——“这是好的一面”。我居住的满洲就在另一边，那里曾经是流亡者被流放的地方。
Today, the region bordered by Mongolia, North Korea, and Siberia, is more prosaically called Dongbei, the Northeast.
如今，与蒙古、朝鲜和西伯利亚接壤的地区，更通俗地称为“东北”。
And I live at its heart in a village named Wasteland.
我住在它的中心一个叫荒地的村庄里。
It's actually quite beautiful.
它实际上非常漂亮。
Two dozen homes that in summer look afloat on emerald green rice paddies and bound by a sea of snow in winter, when temperatures fall to -20 and the sun goes down before 4:00.
两打房屋在夏季看起来漂浮在翠绿的稻田上，而在冬季气温降至 -20 度且太阳在 4:00 之前落下时，它们被雪海包围。
No one can say for certain where the name Wasteland comes from.
没有人能确切地说出荒地这个名字的由来。
It could be a trick to keep away outsiders.
这可能是一种驱赶外人的伎俩。
Wasteland's neighboring villages include places named Lonely Outpost, Jong's Smelly Ditch, The Dunes, and Mudtown.
荒原的邻近村庄包括名为“孤独前哨站”、“琼的臭沟”、“沙丘”和“泥镇”的地方。
There's also Big Wasteland, where they grow organic rice and whose residents consider themselves a cut above.
还有“大荒地”，那里种植有机稻米，居民认为自己高人一等。
I never go to Big Wasteland.
我从来没有去过大荒原。
That's the funny thing about a village-- no matter how small, it becomes your entire world.
这就是村庄的有趣之处——无论多么小，它都会成为你的整个世界。
Wasteland is a bedroom community of sorts.
荒地是某种卧室社区。
There are no traffic lights or even stop signs out here.
这里没有红绿灯，甚至没有停车标志。
Just single-story brick homes backed by outhouses, and two corner stores which double as mah-jong parlors at the intersection of Red Flag Road.
只有单层砖房，后面有外屋，还有红旗路交叉口的两家街角商店，兼作麻将馆。
Lonely Outpost is where the nearest services are.
Lonely Outpost 是最近的服务地点。
In a town of 1,500 people, three miles south, where I volunteer as an English teacher at the middle school.
在以南 3 英里的一座有 1,500 人的小镇上，我志愿担任那里的中学英语老师。
The walk there from Wasteland takes me past the anti-aircraft gun used to seed clouds for rain and the new organic farm slash hot spring resort that fills with city folk on weekends.
从荒地步行到那里，我会经过用于播种云雨的高射炮，以及周末挤满城市居民的新有机农场斜线温泉度假村。
There's a Christian church, feed and fertilizer stores, a bank, and a shop selling tabloids and self-published circulars with titles such as Intriguing Stories and Strange Affairs.
这里有一座基督教教堂、饲料和肥料商店、一家银行和一家出售小报和自行出版的传单的商店，这些传单的标题是“有趣的故事”和“奇怪的事情”。
It answers questions such as will our capital be moved from Beijing?
它回答了诸如我们的首都是否会从北京迁出等问题。
No. Did the 1989 student protest movement fail?
没有。1989年的学生抗议运动失败了吗？
Yes.
是的。
And how many people were killed during the Cultural Revolution?
文化大革命期间死了多少人？
Lots.
很多。
When a stranger sees me walking, the first question is not what country am I from, but [SPEAKING CHINESE], to which family do I belong?
当陌生人看到我走路时，第一个问题不是我来自哪个国家，而是[说中文]，我属于哪个家庭？
The Fangs, I say.
我说的是獠牙。
My in-laws still hold title to land here.
我的姻亲仍然拥有这里的土地所有权。
And it's where my wife spent her childhood.
这是我妻子度过童年的地方。
She now works as an attorney in Hong Kong, and I shuttle between China's far north and far south to be together.
她现在在香港做律师，我则穿梭于中国的极北和极南相聚。
This arrangement, of course, is a big topic of conversation for other Wastelanders.
当然，这种安排是其他废土人的热门话题。
They can fill hours talking about other people's lives, punctuated with dialect such as "enna" for "yes," and for gasps "ay-ya, wat a my-ah" literally "oh, my mother." They tell me all about my wife's past, hector me about my present, and speculate on our future.
他们可以花几个小时谈论别人的生活，并用方言来标点，例如“enna”代表“是”，喘息声为“ay-ya，wat a my-ah”，字面意思是“哦，我的妈妈”。他们告诉我关于我妻子的过去的一切，就我的现在吓唬我，并推测我们的未来。
Ay-ya wat a my-ah, they say.
他们说，哎呀，我啊。
When are you going to be a father?
你什么时候要当爸爸？
Enna, you can't do it from up here, when she's down there.
恩娜，当她在下面时，你不能从上面做这件事。
In urban China, the sight of a foreigner no longer causes a crowd to gather and stare.
在中国的城市里，外国人的出现不再引起人群聚集并凝视。
But in the rural half, people still approach me with friendly, cautious curiosity, the way you might if a giraffe wandered down your street.
但在农村，人们仍然怀着友好、谨慎的好奇心接近我，就像一只长颈鹿在你的街道上徘徊一样。
I read that the comedian Steve Martin used to hand autograph seekers a signed name card that confirmed the person had met Steve Martin and found him to be warm, polite, intelligent, and funny.
我读到，喜剧演员史蒂夫·马丁曾经给签名寻求者递过一张签名名片，证明此人曾见过史蒂夫·马丁，并发现他热情、礼貌、聪明且有趣。
I've often thought of making a similar card to present with a silent smile, answering the usual six questions asked of me in this order.
我经常想到制作一张类似的卡片，以沉默的微笑呈现，并按顺序回答通常向我提出的六个问题。
One, I'm an American.
第一，我是美国人。
Two, I've been in China a long time.
第二，我来中国已经很长时间了。
Three, I was born in the Year of the Rat.
三、我是鼠年出生的。
I'm 1.86 meters tall.
我身高1.86米。
Four, I do not have a salary.
Four, I do not have a salary.
I'm a writer.
我是一名作家。
Five, Chinese is not hard.
Five, Chinese is not hard.
It is easier to learn than English.
It is easier to learn than English.
Six, yes, I can use chopsticks.
Six, yes, I can use chopsticks.
We eat Chinese food in America too, but often it's expensive and orange.
我们在美国也吃中餐，但通常价格昂贵，而且是橙色的。
On rare occasions, someone starts me off with a curve ball.
在极少数情况下，有人会用弧线球开始我的比赛。
A gruff construction worker sidled up to me last week, hard helmet in hand, to ask if anyone has ever told me my beard is beautiful.
上周，一位粗鲁的建筑工人手上戴着硬质头盔，侧身靠近我，询问是否有人告诉过我，我的胡子很漂亮。
Once, a gentleman in a business suit, standing on a country lane, wondered if morality was more important than wisdom.
有一次，一位穿着西装的绅士站在乡间小路上，想知道道德是否比智慧更重要。
When I arrived in China 17 years ago as one of the country's first Peace Corps volunteers, I actually couldn't use chopsticks and spoke Spanish, not Chinese.
17年前，当我作为中国第一批和平队志愿者之一来到中国时，我实际上不会使用筷子，而且会说西班牙语，而不是中文。
The first sentence I learned to say was [SPEAKING CHINESE], I'm an American.
我学会说的第一句话是[说中文]，我是美国人。
In Wasteland, the words still elicit a smile and the assertion that America, mei-guo, literally "the beautiful country" is just that and very rich and very powerful.
在《荒原》中，这些话仍然会引起微笑，并断言美国，字面意思是“美丽的国家”，就是这样，非常富有，非常强大。
While China is still backward, but developing and also would invade countries for oil if it could.
虽然中国仍然落后，但正在发展，如果可以的话，也会为了石油而入侵其他国家。
And is it true that American farmers own their own land?
美国农民真的拥有自己的土地吗？
But along with admiration for the US, there's also admonition.
但除了对美国的钦佩之外，也有警告。
Last week, a farmer on a bus sitting with his chicken between us announced, "Nixon was the best president your country ever had.
上周，公交车上的一位农民和他的鸡坐在我们中间，他宣布：“尼克松是你们国家有史以来最好的总统。
It's been bad ever since." I am asked why my president bullies other countries and meddles with Taiwan.
从那以后情况一直很糟糕。”有人问我，为什么我的总统欺负其他国家，干涉台湾。
People wonder in the same wounded tone why the American Indians were pushed off their lands, and why Lebron James left Cleveland to play for the Miami Heat.
人们以同样受伤的语气想知道为什么美洲印第安人被赶出他们的土地，为什么勒布朗·詹姆斯离开克利夫兰去迈阿密热火队效力。
I laugh at these assumptions, but compared to what Americans ask me when I say I live in China, it sometimes makes me wonder which is the developing country.
我嘲笑这些假设，但与美国人在我说我住在中国时问我的问题相比，有时让我想知道哪个是发展中国家。
But China is far, Americans often say.
But China is far, Americans often say.
How can you live so far away?
How can you live so far away?
The Chinese are different than us, Americans often assert.
美国人经常断言，中国人与我们不同。
But they want to be like us, right?
But they want to be like us, right?
They are the next superpower.
They are the next superpower.
And most passionately, they ask what about the toilets?
最热情的是，他们问厕所怎么样？
Stop, I reply.
停下来，我回答。
China is not far.
中国并不遥远。
Nowhere is far with Skype and nonstop flights.
Skype 和直达航班无处不在。
Chinese are just as self-effacing as Americans and have a similar sense of humor.
中国人和美国人一样谦虚，也有相似的幽默感。
China is the next superpower?
China is the next superpower?
Wake me when urban tap water is drinkable, when an ambulance will come when called and can make it through traffic, and when there's transparency in government, law, and the finance sector, to say nothing of a civil society, environmental protections, freedom of speech, and-- but usually by now, the questioner's eyes have glazed over.
当城市自来水可以饮用时，当救护车应召而至并能够顺利通过交通时，当政府、法律和金融部门透明时，更不用说公民社会、环境保护、言论自由了，以及——但通常到了现在，提问者的目光已经变得呆滞时，请叫醒我。
And I miss being asked simple questions, such as whether I can use chopsticks.
我很怀念被问到简单的问题，比如我是否可以使用筷子。
Lately, people in Wasteland ask me about the economic crisis and if that is why I live in China.
最近，荒地的人们问我有关经济危机的问题，以及这是否就是我住在中国的原因。
Echoes of when Chinese felt sorry for me as a Peace Corps volunteer, wondering what sort of country sends its young people overseas to work with strangers.
当中国人为我作为和平队志愿者感到难过时，他们想知道什么样的国家会派年轻人到海外与陌生人一起工作。
China is clamoring to reduce its rural population and urbanize.
中国大声疾呼要减少农村人口并进行城市化。
Previously, farm workers migrated to cities.
此前，农民工纷纷涌入城市。
But now the city is coming to them, through an expansion of municipal borders.
但现在，通过扩大城市边界，这座城市正在向他们走来。
Wasteland was recently added to the Guilin city limits.
最近，荒地被纳入桂林市城区范围。
A new billboard towers over Red Flag Road pledging to "build the Northeast top village." A few months ago, workers had gone all through the night pouring cement under klieg lights to finish widening Red Flag.
红旗路上矗立着一块新的广告牌，承诺“打造东北第一村”。几个月前，工人们在灯光下通宵浇筑水泥，以完成红旗拓宽工作。
The new road is double its previous width, and as straight and smooth as a runaway.
新路的宽度是原来的两倍，而且像跑道一样笔直、光滑。
City cars and tour buses heading to the hot spring resorts speed down it at 60 miles an hour leaving a jet stream of trash-- empty Panda Brand cigarette boxes, and bottles of rice wine, along with broad sheets of stock tips, real estate flyers, and fortunetelling booklets.
前往温泉度假村的城市汽车和旅游巴士以每小时 60 英里的速度减速，留下大量垃圾——空的熊猫牌香烟盒、瓶装米酒、大张的股票提示、房地产传单和算命小册子。
Villagers, however, are concerned with other signs, like the ones advertising Eastern Fortune Rice, a privately held and government-backed local business that built the hot spring resort.
然而，村民们对其他标志感到担忧，比如东方财富大米的广告，这是一家私人持有、政府支持的当地企业，建造了温泉度假村。
It's also buying locals' rice crop and hiring them as laborers.
它还购买当地人的稻米作物并雇用他们作为劳动力。
My older neighbors worry that their paddies, once farmed collectively as a commune then tilled independently, may slip from their control and into the hands of the company.
我的老邻居担心，他们的稻田，曾经作为公社集体耕种，后来独立耕种，可能会从他们的控制之下落入公司手中。
A rumor has it that even Wasteland's name will change to Eastern Fortune.
有传言连荒原的名字也要改成东方财富了。
In Wasteland for the first time, a skyline is taking shape.
在废土中，天际线首次成形。
There are cranes and the shells of five-story walk-up buildings.
这里有起重机和五层无电梯建筑的外壳。
Eastern Fortune Rice is offering apartments in exchange for farmers' homes, which will be razed and the land converted to paddies, leased by the company for an annual fee.
东方财富稻业公司以公寓换取农民的房屋，这些房屋将被夷为平地，土地改造成稻田，由公司按年费出租。
The project's billboard shows a pearling stream, renamed the Revered Gentry River, crowned with lotuses, bordered by willow trees and apartments featuring indoor plumbing and central heat.
该项目的广告牌上展示了一条珍珠溪，被重新命名为“尊敬的绅士河”，河边长满了莲花，周围是柳树和配有室内管道和中央供暖的公寓。
The people in this future scene sit on benches and stroll under trellises with children and lovers, wearing blouses and skirts and t-shirts and jeans.
在这个未来场景中，人们坐在长凳上，与孩子和恋人一起在棚架下漫步，穿着衬衫、裙子、T 恤和牛仔裤。
They look and act nothing like Wastelanders, at least not yet.
他们的外表和行为一点也不像废土人，至少现在还不是。
Through marriage, I have various distant relatives in Wasteland.
通过婚姻，我在荒原有了各种各样的远房亲戚。
The one I'm closest to is Sanjo.
我最亲近的人是三条。
I have known Sanjo for a decade.
我认识三条已有十年了。
He is 67, a rice farmer, and the head of a household that includes his wife, three children, and assorted grandchildren and cousins.
他今年 67 岁，是一名稻农，也是一家之主，其中包括妻子、三个孩子以及各色孙子和表兄弟姐妹。
The door of his one-story home is often banging open and shut from visitors.
他的平房的门经常被敲开又关上，不接待访客。
And the white pekingese that keeps watch out front has barked itself hoarse on occasion.
守在前面的白色哈巴狗有时也会发出嘶哑的叫声。
Last summer, Sanjo had a stroke.
去年夏天，三条中风了。
Two fingers on his left hand went numb.
左手的两根手指已经麻木了。
And he walked to the clinic in Lonely Outpost.
然后他步行到了孤独前哨站的诊所。
I was out of town when this happened.
这件事发生时我不在城里。
And on my first day back, I woke at 6:00 in the morning and walked the mile to his home to find Sanjo had already biked to the clinic for a daily dose of medicine.
回来的第一天，我早上 6:00 醒来，步行一英里到他家，发现 Sanjo 已经骑自行车去诊所接受每日剂量的药物。
I walked two miles to the clinic.
我步行两英里到诊所。
Young nurses in starched white uniforms I had only seen on television shows as a kid ask the usual questions.
小时候，我只在电视节目中见过穿着笔挺的白色制服的年轻护士，他们问的都是常见问题。
And I roam the hall looking in doors for Sanjo, robotically replying American, a long time, Year of the Rat, 1.86 meters tall.
我在大厅里漫步，在门口寻找三条，机械地回答：美国，很久了，鼠年，1.86 米高。
Sanjo lay in a room with four platform beds, each occupied by a man on his back tethered to an IV line.
三条躺在一个有四张平台床的房间里，每张床上都有一个背着静脉注射线的男人。
A ceiling fan pushed the limpid air, and flies buzzed against the screen windows facing the village street.
吊扇吹动着清澈的空气，苍蝇在面向村街的纱窗上嗡嗡作响。
Rumbling dump trucks blared their horns as they passed, sending plumes of dust into the room.
隆隆作响的自卸卡车驶过时鸣着喇叭，把一缕缕灰尘带进房间。
When the saline bag emptied, a patient yelled at the top of his voice [SPEAKING CHINESE], change medicine.
当生理盐水袋空了的时候，一个病人大声喊着[说中文]，换药。
Sanjo's eyes lit up as I said hello and patted his arm.
当我打招呼并拍拍他的手臂时，三条的眼睛亮了起来。
There's no hugging in Chinese families.
中国家庭里没有拥抱。
A man with a hand bandaged in white gauze slung around his neck asked where I had gone for a week.
一个脖子上缠着白纱布的男人问我这周去了哪里。
And I said to write about California, where airplanes seed rice paddies from the sky.
我说要写一篇关于加利福尼亚州的文章，那里的飞机从天上播种稻田。
The men were skeptical and silent, before one who had taken a liquor bottle to the eyebrow shouted [SPEAKING CHINESE].
这些人持怀疑态度，沉默不语，直到一个人把酒瓶举到眉毛处喊道[说中文]。
A starched nurse entered and said, our clinic must look really poor to an American.
一位表情严肃的护士走进来说，在美国人看来，我们的诊所一定看起来很穷。
The kind of reflexive embarrassment a foreigner often hears in China.
外国人在中国经常听到的那种反射性的尴尬。
The Chinese countryside is beautiful, but poverty is poverty, no matter how picturesque.
中国的乡村很美丽，但贫穷就是贫穷，无论多么美丽。
And Lonely Outpost Clinic is, by all measures, poor.
从各方面来看，孤独前哨诊所都很穷。
But it is also well supplied, attentively staffed, and affordable even for a farmer.
但它也供应充足，人员配备齐全，甚至对农民来说也负担得起。
Still I wanted to pay for Sanjo's care, but how could I say, in a room full of people, that he should not worry about the bill?
我还是想付三条的护理费，但在挤满人的房间里，我怎么能说他不应该担心账单呢？
Paying in China represents more than a financial transaction.
在中国，支付不仅仅意味着金融交易。
Merely picking up a restaurant check often leads to tableside scrums, climaxing with hand slapping dashes to the register to toss down money first.
仅仅拿起一张餐厅支票常常会导致餐桌旁的争吵，最后以用手拍打收银台以先扔钱来达到高潮。
Paying is a show of respect and a deposit in the ledger of favors that balances relationships.
支付是一种尊重的表现，也是平衡关系的恩惠账簿上的存款。
As a newcomer, let alone a foreigner, this account is all but closed to me.
作为一个新人，更不用说外国人了，这个账户对我来说几乎是关闭的。
Sanjo knew the men in the room his entire life.
三条一生都认识房间里的人。
He lived through six decades of history with them.
他与他们一起经历了六十年的历史。
When I meet people in the Northeast and get around to asking their age-- it's not polite to ask an older person directly-- I immediately subtract the number from the current year and flip through a mental history book of what the person has lived through, with chapter headings that include Chinese Warlords, Japanese Occupiers, and the Puppet State of Manchukuo.
当我在东北遇到人并抽出时间询问他们的年龄时——直接问年长的人是不礼貌的——我立即从今年减去数字，然后翻阅一本关于这个人经历过的心理历史书，章节标题包括中国军阀、日本占领者和伪满洲国。
Soviet soldiers, and then the Communists and campaigns such as land reform, the Resist-America Aid-Korea War, the Great Leap Forward, and collective farming.
苏联士兵，然后是共产党人和土地改革、抗美援朝战争、大跃进和集体农业等运动。
Those bold headings can blur the individual lives lived in between.
这些大胆的标题可能会模糊其间的个人生活。
The sister of my housemate, Mr. Guan, once pointed at the water well in our backyard and casually said our father was a teacher and threw himself down that during the Cultural Revolution.
我室友关先生的姐姐曾经指着我们后院的水井，随口说我们的父亲是一名教师，文革期间就跳楼自杀了。
And that's when I get lost in China, still, despite knowing the language and culture, and, frankly, I know more about this region's geography and history than many locals.
就在那时，我在中国迷失了方向，尽管我了解中国的语言和文化，而且坦率地说，我比许多当地人更了解这个地区的地理和历史。
But I haven't lived it, and so will always be apart.
但我还没有经历过，所以永远都会分开。
My opinion, my very being, can be deleted by anyone, even a four-year-old child, with a simple [SPEAKING CHINESE], you don't understand.
我的观点，我的存在，任何人都可以删除，哪怕是一个四岁的孩子，一句简单的【说中文】，你都听不懂。
[SPEAKING CHINESE], you are a foreigner.
[说中文]，你是外国人。
Well, duh, I think.
嗯，呃，我想。
But it's true.
但这是真的。
I'll often miss these unspoken cues-- when to pay, how to pay, when to praise, when to criticize, when to curse, when to laugh-- that may not impact that day, but may alter the ones to come.
我经常会错过这些不言而喻的暗示——什么时候付钱、如何付钱、什么时候表扬、什么时候批评、什么时候咒骂、什么时候笑——这些可能不会影响那一天，但可能会改变未来的日子。
Like my visit to the clinic, after which Sanjo's family let it be known, via a third party, that I was not welcome for our usual weekly dinner at their home.
就像我去诊所一样，三条的家人通过第三方告诉我，他们不欢迎我去他们家参加每周一次的晚餐。
Why?
为什么？
Was it about money?
是钱的事吗？
About face?
关乎面子？
About a joke I made or something the clinic staff said?
关于我开的一个玩笑或者诊所工作人员说的话？
I was, and remain, baffled.
我过去和现在都感到困惑。
But this is common in a village, where resentments steep like tea leaves.
但这在村庄里很常见，那里的怨恨像茶叶一样浓浓。
The next day I carefully mention the encounter to a neighbor.
第二天，我小心翼翼地向邻居提起了这次遭遇。
Social networks are still analog here.
社交网络在这里仍然是模拟的。
She clucked and said, everyone calls Sanjo "chod-sze"-- slippery.
她咯咯地笑着说，大家都叫三条为“chod-sze”——滑溜溜的。
That's been his nickname for decades.
这是他几十年来的绰号。
You can never tell what's going on with him.
你永远无法知道他发生了什么事。
Just go back to his house and pretend nothing happened.
回到他家，假装什么都没发生。
So I did, carrying as an offering a bag of Lonely Outpost luxuries such as Oreos, peaches, and chrysanthemum tea.
于是我就这么做了，带了一袋孤独前哨站的奢侈品作为供品，比如奥利奥、桃子和菊花茶。
Nothing was explained, but that night I ate dinner seated next to a friendly Sanjo on his kang, munching flash fried pork and garlic stems, while kids ran in and out, the door slammed and the Pekinese tried its best to be heard.
没有任何解释，但那天晚上，我坐在炕上一位友好的三条旁边吃晚饭，咀嚼着炸猪肉和大蒜茎，孩子们跑进跑出，门砰地一声关上，北京人尽力让别人听到。
Like teachers, writers are worthy of pity in China, even out in the sticks.
和老师一样，作家在中国也值得怜悯，即使是在监狱里。
But I know the trouble my presence causes, cutting a wake across the surface of village life.
但我知道我的存在会带来麻烦，给乡村生活的表面留下了痕迹。
China's distrusts the single traveler, the person without a work unit or even a name card, especially when the person is a la-wai, an old outsider, as foreigners are often called.
中国人不信任单身旅行者，即没有工作单位甚至没有名片的人，尤其是当这个人是“老外地人”（外国人通常被称为“老外地人”）时。
And with reason-- we can always leave.
只要有理由——我们总是可以离开。
Chinese doesn't use tenses or differentiate between singular and plural.
中文不使用时态，也不区分单数和复数。
So one la-wai is the same as six la-wai.
所以一拉围和六拉围是一样的。
But in situations such as this, in a town so small, where I am a visitor, teaching, sure, and invited to weddings and funerals and New Year's dinners, but a guest always.
但在这样的情况下，在一个如此小的小镇，我是一个访客，教书，当然，并被邀请参加婚礼、葬礼和新年晚宴，但始终是客人。
I know how to describe my numbers.
我知道如何描述我的数字。
Just as there is a murder of crows and a school of fish, in China, even in the middle of Wasteland, the foreigner is always a hassle of la-wai.
正如乌鸦有杀戮，鱼群有凶杀一样，在中国，即使在荒原之中，外国人也总是惹麻烦的。
Michael Meyer, reading excerpts adapted from the book that he's writing about life in rural China.
迈克尔·迈耶（Michael Meyer）正在阅读根据他所写的有关中国农村生活的书改编的摘录。
It's called In Manchuria.
它的名字叫《在满洲里》。
And it will be published later this year.
该书将于今年晚些时候出版。
Well, our program was produced today by Miki Meek, our senior producer Julie Snyder, with Alex Blumberg, Ben Calhoun, Sarah Koenig, Jonathan Menjivar, Lisa Pollak, Brian Reed, Robyn Semien, Alissa Shipp, and Nancy Updike.
嗯，我们今天的节目由米基·米克（Miki Meek）、我们的高级制片人朱莉·斯奈德（Julie Snyder）、亚历克斯·布伦伯格（Alex Blumberg）、本·卡尔霍恩（Ben Calhoun）、莎拉·科尼格（Sarah Koenig）、乔纳森·曼吉瓦尔（Jonathan Menjivar）、丽莎·波拉克（Lisa Pollak）、布莱恩·里德（Brian Reed）、罗宾·塞米恩（Robyn Semien）、艾丽莎·希普（Alissa Shipp）和南希·厄普代克（Nancy Updike）共同制作。
Seth Lind is our production manager.
塞思·林德 (Seth Lind) 是我们的生产经理。
Emily Condon is our office manager.
艾米丽·康登 (Emily Condon) 是我们的办公室经理。
Production help from Matt Kielty, music help from Damien Graef, from Rob Geddes.
Matt Kielty 提供制作帮助，Damien Graef 提供音乐帮助，Rob Geddes 提供帮助。
[ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS] This American Life is distributed by Public Radio International.
[致谢]《美国生活》由国际公共广播电台发行。
WBEZ management oversight for our program by our boss, Mr. Torey Malatia.
我们的老板 Torey Malatia 先生对我们的项目进行 WBEZ 管理监督。
You know, we keep trying to get our program onto the BBC.
你知道，我们一直在努力让我们的节目登上 BBC。
And we have these meetings with executives at the BBC.
我们与 BBC 的高管举行了这些会议。
And Torey ruins every single meeting by blurting out in the middle--
托雷在每次会议中都会脱口而出，毁掉了每一次会议——
Oh, they're so cute.
哦，他们真可爱。
Oh, look at that cute foreigner.
哦，看看那个可爱的外国人。
That's so adorable.
真是太可爱了。
I'm Ira Glass.
我是艾拉·格拉斯。
Back next week with more stories of This American Life.
下周我们将带来更多《美国生活》的故事。
This American Life is produced in collaboration with WBEZ Chicago and delivered to stations by PRX The Public Radio Exchange.
《This American Life》与 WBEZ Chicago 合作制作，并由 PRX 公共广播电台传送到各电台。