307: In the Shadow of the City (2006) - This American Life
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00:00 00:00 Transcript Share This American Life Life Partners How to Listen Episodes Recommended About Overview Staff Announcements Fellowships Jobs Music Make Radio On The Road FAQ Submissions Merch Contact Us Our Other Shows Merch Follow Us Life Partners Subscribe to our newsletter Full episode Toggle Audio and Transcript Sync Transcript | Episode #307 | February 23, 2007 307: In the Shadow of the City (2006) Note: This American Life is produced for the ear and designed to be heard.
00:00 00:00 文字记录 分享此 美国生活 生活伙伴 如何收听 剧集 推荐 关于 概述 员工公告 奖学金 工作 音乐 在路上制作电台 常见问题解答 提交 商品 联系我们 我们的其他节目 商品 关注我们 生活伙伴 订阅我们的时事通讯 整集 切换音频和文字记录同步 文字记录 | 内容第 307 集 | 2007 年 2 月 23 日 307：城市的阴影 (2006) 注：《美国生活》是为耳朵而制作的，旨在让人们听到。
If you are able, we strongly encourage you to listen to the audio, which includes emotion and emphasis that's not on the page.
如果可以的话，我们强烈建议您收听音频，其中包括页面上没有的情感和重点。
Transcripts are generated using a combination of speech recognition software and human transcribers, and may contain errors.
文字记录是使用语音识别软件和人工转录员结合生成的，可能包含错误。
Please check the corresponding audio before quoting in print.
请在印刷版引用前检查相应的音频。
Prologue Ira Glass OK-- this happens to be Chicago, but every city has a place like this.
序言 Ira Glass 好吧——这里恰好是芝加哥，但每个城市都有这样的地方。
That weird, desolate area at the far end of town.
位于城镇远端的那个奇怪而荒凉的地区。
We're a half mile west of the old abandoned steel mills.
我们位于废弃旧钢厂以西半英里处。
We're a half mile north of landfills where methane fires used to burn.
我们位于曾经燃烧甲烷火的垃圾填埋场以北半英里处。
Just south of the auto junkyard.
就在汽车垃圾场南边。
Just east of the site of the old city dump, where there was a mountain of raw garbage that would stink up the neighborhood whenever the wind would blow in the wrong direction.
就在旧城垃圾场的东边，那里有一座堆积如山的原始垃圾，只要风吹错方向，周围的环境就会散发出恶臭。
Everybody down here called it Mount Pacini, for the alderman who let the city put it here.
这里的每个人都称它为帕西尼山，是为了纪念让这座城市把它放在这里的市议员。
You will notice all these-- what would you call it-- tire marks.
你会注意到所有这些——你称之为什么——轮胎痕迹。
This street is used for drag racing year-round.
这条街道全年用于飙车比赛。
Really?
真的吗？
Charlie Gregerson Yeah, because it's basically far enough away from the police that they don't do anything about it.
查理·格雷格森：是的，因为它基本上离警察足够远，所以他们不会采取任何行动。
My guide is Charlie Gregerson, who grew up down here.
我的导游是查理格雷格森，他在这里长大。
He shows me where a lake, Lake Calumet, used to be back in the '40s when he was a kid.
他向我展示了卡鲁梅特湖 (Lake Calumet) 的位置，早在上世纪 40 年代他还是个孩子的时候。
He'd go fishing on a rowboat with his dad.
他会和父亲一起划船去钓鱼。
Then the city started filling in huge sections of the lake with garbage and incinerator ash.
然后，该市开始用垃圾和焚烧炉灰填满湖的大片区域。
He'd come here in the '70s and see bulldozers pushing around the rubble of some of Chicago's great buildings which had been recently demolished.
他在 70 年代来到这里，看到推土机在最近被拆除的芝加哥一些伟大建筑的废墟上推土。
Louis Sullivan masterpieces like the Stock Exchange Building and the Garrick Theater-- this is where they ended up.
路易斯·沙利文的杰作，如证券交易所大楼和加里克剧院 - 这就是它们的终点。
Now show me-- we're standing here-- where were all the buildings being dumped?
现在告诉我——我们站在这里——所有被倾倒的建筑物都去哪儿了？
And what did that look like?
那是什么样子的？
Right here at what was the north end of the dump.
就在垃圾场的北端。
I actually picked up a few pieces of the Stock Exchange ornament right out of the lake.
事实上，我从湖里捡到了几块证券交易所装饰品。
But, of course, most of it had been ground right into the dirt, because they had bulldozers that would just dump the stuff in piles, and the bulldozer would just flatten them all out.
但是，当然，大部分都被直接压入泥土中，因为他们有推土机，可以把这些东西堆成一堆，而推土机会把它们全部压平。
And so there would be this Louis Sullivan terra cotta ornament just sticking out?
那么路易斯·沙利文的赤土装饰品就会脱颖而出吗？
Just laying out there, yeah.
只是躺在那里，是的。
Ira Glass And so walking around when there's these pieces of buildings sticking up.
Ira Glass：当这些建筑物矗立起来时，就四处走动。
It just seems like it must have been such a strange scene.
看来刚才的场景一定很奇怪。
Like this apocalyptic death of a city.
就像这座城市的世界末日般的死亡。
Oh, yeah.
哦，是的。
I remember seeing one of these big phoenix columns-- that I knew had come out of the Garrick Theater-- was just sticking out of the ground.
我记得看到其中一根大凤凰柱——我知道它是从加里克剧院出来的——刚刚从地下伸出来。
Two of those in the Garrick Theater distributed the weight of the upper floors that were over the stage.
加里克剧院的其中两个分散了舞台上方上层的重量。
One of those was just sticking out at about a 45 degree angle out of the ground.
其中一个以大约 45 度角从地面伸出。
And at that point, the Garrick had been gone for almost 10 years.
那时，加里克已经消失近十年了。
There were once big plans for this area-- for canals and waterways, a harbor that never really worked out.
这个地区曾经有过宏伟的规划——修建运河和水道，但从未真正实现过港口建设。
There are zoning maps of the city that show streets and complete neighborhoods, a whole grid of them, that nobody ever got around to building.
城市的分区地图显示了街道和完整的社区，以及整个网格，但没有人抽出时间去建造。
Instead, now, on top of all the trash, stands a golf course.
相反，现在，在所有垃圾之上，矗立着一座高尔夫球场。
Charlie says that from the clubhouse he gets exactly the same view that he used to get back when he and his dad took out the rowboat.
查理说，从俱乐部会所看到的景色与他和父亲划出划艇时回来时看到的景色一模一样。
It's the same spot.
这是同一个地方。
That's where the lake once was.
那是湖曾经所在的地方。
You can see clear to downtown.
可以清楚地看到市中心。
So far away, it might as well be another city.
如此遥远，它就像是另一个城市。
Well, today on our program we have stories from several places like this.
嗯，今天在我们的节目中我们有来自几个类似地方的故事。
In the shadow the city, that weird no-man's land where it always feels like secret stuff is happening just out of sight.
在城市的阴影下，那片奇怪的无人区，总让人感觉有秘密的事情正在看不见的地方发生。
From WBEZ Chicago, it's This American Life, distributed by Public Radio International.
这是来自芝加哥 WBEZ 的《This American Life》，由国际公共广播电台发行。
I'm Ira Glass.
我是艾拉·格拉斯。
Our program today in three acts.
我们今天的节目分三幕。
Act One, Brooklyn Archipelago.
第一幕，布鲁克林群岛。
In that act, some passengers set sail one day on a three hour tour, a three hour tour, and end up getting lost in the wilderness.
在那次行动中，一些乘客有一天启航，进行了三小时的旅行，三小时的旅行，最终在荒野中迷路了。
One fears for his life on a string of islands that is just outside a very, very big city.
人们担心自己在一座非常非常大的城市外的一系列岛屿上的生命安全。
Act Two, The Thin Gray Line.
第二幕，细细的灰线。
In that act, a tour bus takes out-of-towners into areas where tourists never tread.
在这一行为中，一辆旅游巴士将外地人带到游客从未涉足的地区。
To see destruction, tragedy,
看到毁灭、悲剧，
Act Three.
第三幕。
Please, In My Backyard.
请在我的后院。
A controversy over industrial odors coming from a factory.
关于工厂散发的工业气味的争议。
Odors that people actually want to keep.
人们真正想要保留的气味。
Stay with us.
留在我们身边。
Act One, Brooklyn Archipelago.
第一幕，布鲁克林群岛。
Brett Martin has this story, which takes place on the outskirts of, well, perhaps you've already figured out which city.
布雷特·马丁有一个故事，故事发生在，好吧，也许你已经知道是哪个城市的郊区了。
Listen, it happens.
听着，它发生了。
You go out for a night with your friends, and you wind up drunk, in your underwear, soaking wet, covered with blood, and shipwrecked on a desert island, all within sight of the Empire State Building.
你和朋友出去过夜，结果你喝醉了，穿着内衣，浑身湿透，浑身是血，在一座荒岛上遭遇了海难，而这一切都在帝国大厦的视野范围内。
These things happen.
这些事情都会发生。
Or at least, they did happen to Alex Zharov.
或者至少，它们确实发生在亚历克斯·扎罗夫身上。
Alex is 17-years-old.
亚历克斯今年 17 岁。
He moved to the US from a small town in the Ukraine when he was nine.
九岁时，他从乌克兰的一个小镇搬到了美国。
He's skinny and wears tie dyed t-shirts, an unmanageable spray of frizzy blonde hair, and a valiant, if not altogether successful, starter mustache.
他身材瘦削，穿着扎染的 T 恤，一头难以打理的卷曲金发，留着英勇的小胡子，即使不是完全成功。
And, well, he can probably introduce himself better than I can.
而且，好吧，他可能比我更能自我介绍。
Here's how he responds when I ask him to state his name for the record.
当我要求他说出自己的名字以供记录时，他是这样回应的。
My name is Alex Zharov, and I love to have very radical experiences in life.
我叫亚历克斯·扎罗夫（Alex Zharov），我喜欢在生活中拥有非常激进的经历。
And I consider myself to be a psychedelic artistically productive person.
我认为自己是一个具有迷幻艺术创作能力的人。
Here are a few other things about Alex.
以下是有关亚历克斯的其他一些事情。
He lives with his cute, older girlfriend and his exceptionally patient parents in a small apartment in the Midwood section of Brooklyn.
他和他可爱的年长女友以及异常耐心的父母住在布鲁克林米德伍德区的一间小公寓里。
Instead of going to high school, he's enrolled in an internet home schooling program.
他没有去高中，而是参加了一个互联网家庭教育项目。
He's at work on a science fiction novel and has logged several hundred in-flight hours as a student pilot.
他正在写一部科幻小说，并作为一名飞行学员，已经有数百小时的飞行时间。
But most of Alex's time is spent as the guitarist, singer, and songwriter for his band, Ebuffalo.
但亚历克斯的大部分时间都花在了他的乐队 Ebuffalo 的吉他手、歌手和词曲作者身上。
When I went to see them play at a two-day Russian rock festival last fall, I learned several things.
去年秋天，当我去观看他们在为期两天的俄罗斯摇滚音乐节上的表演时，我学到了一些东西。
First, there are many, many ex-Soviet immigrants living in Brooklyn.
首先，有很多很多前苏联移民居住在布鲁克林。
Second, they all very earnestly want to rock.
其次，他们都非常真诚地想要摇滚。
And third, Alex Zharov, whether he's writhing on his back on stage or reclining in the dressing room with a beer and a cigarette, he's kind of a superstar.
第三，亚历克斯·扎罗夫，无论他是在舞台上翻滚，还是在更衣室里拿着啤酒和香烟，他都是一位超级巨星。
Before we get to our story, the other key person you'll need to meet is someone who entered Alex's life at a crucial moment years ago, when Alex first came to the States.
在我们开始讲述故事之前，您需要认识的另一个关键人物是几年前亚历克斯第一次来到美国时在关键时刻进入亚历克斯生活的人。
Alex had an awkward adjustment.
亚历克斯有一个尴尬的调整。
He fought in school and was kind of depressed.
他在学校打架，心情有些沮丧。
He was bored.
他很无聊。
Then one day, Alex was walking along the Brighton Beach Boardwalk and saw a group of older guys collecting money for something called the Russian Punk Rock Club of America.
然后有一天，亚历克斯沿着布莱顿海滩木板路散步，看到一群年长的家伙正在为一个名为“美国俄罗斯朋克摇滚俱乐部”的组织筹集资金。
Older guys like 25 and 30-years-old-- Alex was 12.
年龄较大的人，比如 25 岁和 30 岁——亚历克斯 12 岁。
One of the musicians he met that day was Roman Gadzhilov, who immediately took to the young Alex.
那天他遇到的音乐家之一是罗曼·加吉洛夫(Roman Gadzhilov)，他立即喜欢上了年轻的亚历克斯。
Well, he had this blink in his eyes.
好吧，他的眼睛里有这样的眨眼。
And sometimes you see extraordinary person, and you kind of know this.
有时你会看到非凡的人，你就会知道这一点。
He wasn't appear to us as 12-year-old at that moment.
那时他在我们看来还不像12岁。
At 12-years-old, he was writing songs that I was writing at 18.
12 岁时，他正在写我 18 岁时写的歌曲。
And after this, we've been together all the time.
从那以后，我们就一直在一起了。
We call him [?
我们称他为[?
Krusha.
克鲁沙。
?] Brett Martin And what does that mean?
？] 布雷特·马丁 这是什么意思？
Under his new friends' tutelage, Alex began walking around in an old Bolshevik style hat and trench coat.
在新朋友的指导下，亚历克斯开始戴着旧布尔什维克风格的帽子和风衣四处走动。
And his friends gave him books-- Dostoevsky, Tolkien, guides to Slavic paganism, the Beats, and also Robinson Crusoe & Treasure Island.
他的朋友们给了他书籍——陀思妥耶夫斯基、托尔金、斯拉夫异教指南、垮掉的一代，还有《鲁滨逊漂流记》和《金银岛》。
Alex was particularly fond of those.
亚历克斯特别喜欢那些。
And our story today, our own seafaring tale, happens on a boat that Roman owns.
我们今天的故事，我们自己的航海故事，发生在罗曼拥有的一艘船上。
A 25-foot white sailboat which Alex likes to refer to as "the yacht." One cool evening last May, Alex, Roman and another friend named Alex, Alex Glubochansky, decided to take a nice little boat trip in Jamaica Bay, the body of water that wraps around the southern end of Brooklyn.
一艘 25 英尺长的白色帆船，亚历克斯喜欢将其称为“游艇”。去年五月的一个凉爽的夜晚，亚历克斯、罗曼和另一位名叫亚历克斯的朋友亚历克斯·格卢博昌斯基决定在牙买加湾进行一次愉快的小船旅行，牙买加湾是环绕布鲁克林南端的水域。
Here's Alex.
这是亚历克斯。
The three of us decided to just get 10 gallons of gas.
我们三个人决定只加 10 加仑汽油。
And my friend Roman, he got a bottle of rum.
我的朋友罗曼（Roman）买了一瓶朗姆酒。
And we got two cans of food, and we just decided to have a cool trip on the yacht.
我们买了两罐食物，就决定在游艇上来一次很酷的旅行。
And I started saying, oh, our goal is the open ocean.
我开始说，哦，我们的目标是公海。
Let's sail to Poland, I told them.
我们航行到波兰吧，我告诉他们。
Roman had a slightly less ambitious agenda.
罗曼的议程稍微不那么雄心勃勃。
The plan was just to go under the Rockaway Bridge, then turn around and then come back.
计划只是从洛克威桥下走，然后掉头再回来。
It should have taken about 40 minutes.
应该需要大约 40 分钟。
Things started to go wrong almost immediately.
事情几乎立刻就开始出错了。
Before they even left the marina, Roman, who'd been making headway through the bottle of rum, fell into the water, and they had to haul him back in.
在他们离开码头之前，罗曼在朗姆酒瓶中前进时掉进了水里，他们不得不把他拉回来。
He was clearly in no shape to drive.
他显然不适合开车。
This is Alex.
这是亚历克斯。
He got drunk, and he just was babbling something, laughing.
他喝醉了，只是胡言乱语，笑着。
Like he said, don't go there, don't go there.
就像他说的，不要去那里，不要去那里。
And he was constantly saying, don't hit the shallows.
他一直在说，不要浅滩。
He already didn't control the situation by that time.
到时候他已经控制不住局势了。
As a responsible journalist, I should say for the record that Roman does have one objection to Alex's version of events.
作为一名负责任的记者，我应该郑重声明，罗曼确实对亚历克斯对事件的说法有异议。
It wasn't rum, by the way, it was cognac.
顺便说一句，这不是朗姆酒，而是干邑白兰地。
I don't know why everybody puts rum.
我不知道为什么大家都放朗姆酒。
So it was a cognac.
所以这是一杯干邑。
You're sure?
你确定吗？
Roman Gadzhilov It was a Lautrec.
罗曼·加吉洛夫（Roman Gadzhilov） 这是劳特累克（Lautrec）。
Yes, it was Lautrec cognac.
是的，这是劳特累克干邑。
I don't know how come it's become rum.
不知道怎么就变成朗姆酒了
Alex told it was rum, but it was cognac.
亚历克斯说这是朗姆酒，但实际上是干邑白兰地。
Not a little bit, it was a lot.
不是一点点，而是很多。
I was out of commission.
我已经失业了。
Alex and Alex had had a few drinks themselves.
亚历克斯和亚历克斯自己也喝了几杯。
But we were perfectly sober and everything.
但我们完全清醒。
We might have had a few drinks, but we were perfectly sober.
我们可能喝了几杯，但我们完全清醒。
But neither of you knows how to drive a boat?
但你们都不知道如何驾驶船？
No. But we got a hold of it.
不，但我们掌握了它。
It wasn't that hard.
这并不难。
So we knew how to drive it, so it didn't seem pretty hard.
所以我们知道如何驾驶它，所以看起来并不难。
You turn on the motor.
您打开电机。
You turn the boat.
你把船调转。
It turns, cool.
转起来，很酷。
Somehow they managed to get out of the marina, gun the engine, and take off across the water toward the Marine Park Bridge in the distance.
他们设法离开码头，发动引擎，跨过水面飞向远处的海洋公园大桥。
Once there, they decided to try to sail to Brighton Beach and headed toward a land mass.
到达那里后，他们决定尝试航行到布莱顿海滩并前往一块陆地。
But they got confused and turned back to open water.
但他们感到困惑并返回到开阔的水域。
They drank some rum, or maybe cognac.
他们喝了一些朗姆酒，或者干邑白兰地。
One way or another, they drank a lot of it.
无论如何，他们喝了很多。
At one point, they almost crashed into a small island.
有一次，他们差点坠入一座小岛。
Gas was running low, but they figured that if worse came to worse, they could always put up the sails and still make it home.
汽油即将耗尽，但他们认为，如果情况变得更糟，他们总能扬起帆并安全回家。
Then they got caught in a strong current that turned the boat in circles.
然后他们被一股强大的水流卷入，使船打转。
The perfect time, you would think, to begin to panic.
你可能会认为，这是开始恐慌的最佳时机。
Or, if you're the kind of person who forgets trouble the moment you're out of it, or even while you're in it, the perfect time to shoot off all the boat's flares-- into the water, just for fun.
或者，如果您是那种一出海就忘记麻烦的人，甚至当您身处其中时，这是将船上所有照明弹射入水中的最佳时机，只是为了好玩。
Finally, the series of mistakes reached a critical mass.
最后，这一系列的错误达到了临界点。
They had no cell phone-- Roman's had died when he fell in the water-- no flares, no captain, and almost no gas.
他们没有手机——罗曼的手机掉进水里就死了——没有照明弹，没有船长，几乎没有汽油。
Even Alex had to admit they were in trouble.
就连亚历克斯也不得不承认他们遇到了麻烦。
We didn't know where we were.
我们不知道自己在哪里。
And then we realized that we weren't going to make it anywhere.
然后我们意识到我们不会成功。
And we were like, in the morning we'll figure out what to do.
我们当时想，早上我们就会弄清楚该怎么做。
So we went to sleep.
于是我们就去睡觉了。
It was a glorious spring morning on Jamaica Bay.
那是牙买加湾一个明媚的春天早晨。
Sun glinting off the water, gulls calling overhead as our young pleasure cruisers slumbered.
阳光照在水面上闪闪发光，海鸥在头顶上鸣叫，而我们年轻的游船正在沉睡。
The light filtering into the boat's cabin woke Roman and Alex Glubochansky first, and they came up on deck.
进入船舱的光线首先唤醒了罗曼·格鲁博昌斯基和亚历克斯·格鲁博昌斯基，他们来到了甲板上。
What they saw was not good.
他们看到的并不好。
After drifting through the night, the boat had come to rest in the shallows of a small bay alongside an uninhabited land mass.
经过一夜的漂流，船停在了一片无人居住的陆地旁的一个小海湾的浅滩上。
Stretching out behind them, they could see a long furrow where the tide had dragged them deep into thick mud.
他们在身后伸展开来，看到一条长长的犁沟，潮水把他们深深地拖进了厚厚的泥浆里。
And as they stood there, blinking and wondering how this might have happened, the wind carried them another 10 feet inland.
当他们站在那里，眨着眼睛，想知道这是怎么发生的时，风又把他们吹向内陆 10 英尺。
They could see the skyline of Manhattan on the horizon, the runways of JFK Airport a little closer, and signs of civilization in every direction.
他们可以看到地平线上的曼哈顿天际线，近一点的肯尼迪机场跑道，以及各个方向的文明标志。
They could even see boats passing by in the distance, but these were too far away to take any notice.
他们甚至可以看到远处有船只驶过，但距离太远，根本无法注意到。
It was obvious that they were, in a word, shipwrecked.
很明显，总而言之，他们遭遇了海难。
The hungover sailors sat down to decide what to do.
宿醉的水手们坐下来决定该怎么做。
Roman and Glubochansky were in favor of waiting to be rescued or for the tide to rise and pull them out again.
罗曼和格卢博昌斯基赞成等待获救，或者等待潮水上涨将他们再次拉出来。
Meanwhile, Alex was formulating his own plan.
与此同时，亚历克斯正在制定自己的计划。
Beyond the island they were closest to lay another land mass which Alex was sure led somewhere.
在岛屿之外，他们距离另一块陆地最近，亚历克斯确信这块陆地通向某个地方。
His idea was to swim to it, walk to civilization, catch a bus somewhere, and bring back help for his friends, who, as Alex remembers it, thought the plan was, frankly, idiotic.
他的想法是游到那里，步行到文明社会，在某个地方搭乘公共汽车，然后为他的朋友们带回帮助，据亚历克斯回忆，他们认为这个计划坦率地说是愚蠢的。
These are islands, said Roman, who in truth had actually been out on the Bay before and was in a position to know.
罗曼说，这些都是岛屿，事实上他以前曾去过海湾，并且有能力知道。
But Alex was sure that Roman was wrong.
但亚历克斯确信罗曼错了。
So Alex stripped to his underwear.
于是亚历克斯脱光了内衣。
He put what he thought he might need in a waterproof plastic mayonnaise jar.
他将他认为可能需要的东西放入防水塑料蛋黄酱罐中。
He brought his Metro card for the bus he was going to swim to, an expired passport for ID, and his favorite Buddhist medallion for luck.
他带了他要游去的公交车的地铁卡、一本过期的护照作为身份证件，以及他最喜欢的佛教徽章以求好运。
He wrapped his clothes in a cellophane blanket and bid his friends farewell.
他用玻璃纸毯子裹住衣服，向朋友们告别。
Roman watched him disappear into the surf.
罗曼看着他消失在海浪中。
Of course.
当然。
I tried to stop him.
我试图阻止他。
I tried to give him reasonable things, but he get a little bit too much excited.
我试图给他合理的东西，但他有点太兴奋了。
So I decided to give him a challenge in life.
所以我决定给他一个人生的挑战。
What?
什么？
Should I just knock him down and say stop it?
我应该把他打倒并说停止吗？
He wanted to swim, and he swam.
他想游泳，他就游了。
I swam really violently to get myself warmed up.
为了让自己暖和起来，我游得非常猛烈。
And by the middle, I got really tired, and I was really cold.
到了中间，我真的很累，而且我真的很冷。
And I'm like, oh, this is much worse than I thought.
我想，哦，这比我想象的要糟糕得多。
And there's birds flying, like peeking on me.
还有鸟儿飞翔，好像在偷看我。
I'm like, these crazy strange [INAUDIBLE] birds are going to bite me or something.
我想，这些疯狂的奇怪的[听不清]鸟会咬我什么的。
And I got really lucky, because my legs suddenly hit the bottom.
我真的很幸运，因为我的腿突然触底了。
And I was so happy when I came out of there.
当我从那里出来时我非常高兴。
I was so cold, but I was happy.
虽然我很冷，但我很高兴。
And I was definitely sure there was civilization, because tall buildings were right behind the trees.
我确信这里有文明，因为高楼就在树后面。
And the bridge was right over there.
桥就在那里。
And I'm like, oh, finally.
我想，哦，终于。
And I was even singing a song walking, and the birds were screaming something to me.
我什至边走边唱着歌，鸟儿们对我尖叫着什么。
And I'm like, yeah, I made it.
我想，是的，我做到了。
I'm still not sure I understand why you left your friends though.
我仍然不确定我明白你为什么离开你的朋友。
Because I thought we were going to be stuck there for a really long time, maybe for the whole day.
因为我以为我们会被困在那里很长一段时间，也许一整天。
The only thing I could do is just try to get to civilization.
我唯一能做的就是努力走向文明。
And especially these islands-- they were pressuring me to go there.
尤其是这些岛屿——他们迫使我去那里。
They were so close.
他们是如此亲密。
And I got really bored.
我真的很无聊。
You know, I wake up in the morning, I don't want to stay in one spot on the yacht and think about how we're going to get saved.
你知道，我早上醒来，我不想呆在游艇上的一个地方，想着我们将如何得救。
I really want to do something.
我真的很想做点什么。
And I'm like, OK, I'm going to have this little adventure.
我想，好吧，我要经历一次小小的冒险。
I'm going to go out and try to make it somewhere, and I did.
我要出去尝试去某个地方，我做到了。
Except he didn't.
但他没有。
Soon he realized that he was, indeed, on another island, with no way off except to swim back through the freezing water to rejoin his friends.
很快他意识到自己确实在另一个岛上，除了游回冰冷的海水与朋友们会合之外，别无其他出路。
And he wasn't about to do that.
而他并不打算这么做。
He was alone.
他独自一人。
So Alex set about doing all the things a good castaway should do.
于是亚历克斯开始做一个好漂流者应该做的所有事情。
He wrote a giant "help" in the sand for the benefit of the planes landing at JFK.
为了飞机在肯尼迪机场降落，他在沙子上写下了巨大的“帮助”。
He circumnavigated the island looking for supplies.
他绕岛一周寻找补给品。
He found a stick and a piece of red cloth, and made a flag to signal passing ships.
他找到了一根棍子和一块红布，制作了一面旗帜来向过往的船只发出信号。
Then he found several big pieces of Styrofoam and some wood and spent an hour or two fashioning a raft, but it collapsed when he sat down on it.
然后他找到了几块大块聚苯乙烯泡沫塑料和一些木头，花了一两个小时制作了一个木筏，但当他坐在上面时木筏就倒塌了。
Undeterred, he went back to searching for something that would be his ticket off the island.
他没有被吓倒，继续寻找可以作为他离开岛屿的门票的东西。
And then he found it.
然后他找到了。
It was the hollowed out carcass of a jet ski, or, as he calls it, a scooter.
这是一架摩托艇的中空骨架，或者用他的话说，是一辆踏板车。
I 100% knew that it was going to float, although it was pretty badly dug into the sand.
我百分百知道它会漂浮，尽管它被深深地埋进沙子里。
And as I was digging out the scooter, something really bad happened.
当我挖出踏板车时，发生了非常糟糕的事情。
There was pieces of glass under it.
其下有玻璃碎片。
I didn't see.
我没看到。
I was just digging and digging, and I didn't have any shovel or anything.
我只是挖啊挖，没有铲子什么的。
And I cut my finger really bad.
我的手指被割得很厉害。
I started getting huge amounts of blood was coming out.
我开始大量流血。
And I had this white t-shirt that was eventually all in blood.
我的这件白色 T 恤最终沾满了血。
Now there was really no way off the island, even by swimming.
现在，即使是游泳，也确实没有办法离开这个岛。
Because-- well, you know-- sharks.
因为——嗯，你知道——鲨鱼。
It was a galling situation, and it was made even more maddening because the city was right there.
这是一个令人恼火的情况，而且更令人疯狂的是，因为这座城市就在那里。
I was thinking, how in the hell did I get myself into this situation?
我在想，我到底是怎么让自己陷入这样的境地的呢？
I never believed that something like this could happen in New York City, you know?
我从来不相信这样的事情会发生在纽约，你知道吗？
It's such a huge city that you could see skyscrapers like 10 miles away, and on the other side you can die looking at them.
这是一个如此巨大的城市，你可以看到 10 英里外的摩天大楼，而在另一边你看着它们就会死去。
And also, I got a little mad at the city of New York.
而且，我对纽约市有点生气。
Like, I could understand if they had just one payphone there.
就像，如果他们只有一部公用电话，我就能理解。
Or at least, I don't know, a button to press to know that you're there.
或者至少，我不知道，按下一个按钮就知道你在那里。
By probably 6 o'clock in the evening it was getting a little dark.
大概到了晚上六点多，天色已经有些暗了。
All my excitement has fled away, and I got very cold.
我所有的兴奋都消失了，我变得很冷。
I was shaking, shivering, and no help at all.
我浑身发抖、发抖，却没有任何帮助。
So I'm like, wow, this is going to get really bad.
所以我想，哇，这会变得非常糟糕。
I was very hungry, and I was very thirsty.
我很饿，也很渴。
And I found limes.
我发现了酸橙。
I tried to open them up, but they tasted so nasty.
我试图打开它们，但它们的味道太难吃了。
I didn't even think about eating them.
我什至没有想过要吃它们。
There was no source of food other than the ducks.
除了鸭子之外，没有其他食物来源。
Ah yes, the ducks.
啊，是的，鸭子。
You'll want to hear about the ducks.
你会想听听关于鸭子的事情。
If I wasn't going to get rescued in the next hour or two, I had a plan to kill a bunch of ducks to get some warm blood to warm myself.
如果我在接下来的一两个小时内没有获救，我计划杀掉一群鸭子来获取一些热血来温暖自己。
So to drink some blood and to cut them open and use them to warm myself.
所以喝点血，把它们切开，用它们来温暖自己。
I had this strange idea about use them as slippers.
我有一个奇怪的想法，想把它们用作拖鞋。
After that, I even had this psychedelic idea of floating on the ducks.
之后我什至产生了在鸭子上漂浮的迷幻想法。
Making a raft out of the ducks.
用鸭子制作木筏。
Imagine a man with strings attached to the ducks, floating on the water.
想象一个人用绳子拴着鸭子，漂浮在水面上。
So it's like this duck rider.
就像这个鸭子骑手一样。
It's totally normal for a Russian hiker to go and pick up a duck, not just to kill it, but to eat it.
对于俄罗斯徒步旅行者来说，去捡一只鸭子是完全正常的，不仅仅是为了杀死它，而是为了吃它。
Like, you could just go over and pick up a duck?
就像，你可以过去捡一只鸭子吗？
How did you catch the duck?
你是怎么抓到鸭子的？
You just go after it with a stick.
你只要用一根棍子去追它就可以了。
I mean, you're a human being.
我的意思是，你是一个人。
You got more brains than a duck.
你的脑子比鸭子还多。
You can catch it.
你可以抓住它。
But I wasn't really thinking about doing it.
但我并没有真正考虑这样做。
I wasn't fantasizing about killing ducks or anything like that.
我并没有幻想杀鸭子之类的事情。
I was just thinking that if it comes to that, I'll have to.
我只是想，如果事情真的发生了，我就必须这样做。
I'll have to get some blood to drink.
我得去喝点血。
I know it sounds very violent, but I was fighting for my life.
我知道这听起来很暴力，但我正在为自己的生命而战。
People might laugh when they hear about being trapped on an island that's so close to civilization, and the sharks and the ducks.
当人们听说被困在一个如此接近文明的岛屿上，还有鲨鱼和鸭子时，他们可能会笑。
I knew it was a funny situation, but I really got the feeling of what is it like being on a desert island.
我知道这是一个很有趣的情况，但我确实感受到了在荒岛上的感觉。
I felt like Robinson Crusoe, you know?
我感觉就像鲁宾逊漂流记，你知道吗？
I knew what it was like to be by yourself away from civilization with no help, and you're facing this huge problem.
我知道独自远离文明、没有任何帮助是什么感觉，而你正面临着这个巨大的问题。
And the only person that's near you is you and the ghost of your death close by.
唯一靠近你的人就是你和你附近的死亡鬼魂。
So I could smell my death in the air.
所以我能在空气中闻到死亡的味道。
It turns out that the island where Alex was stranded is called Ruffle Bar.
原来，亚历克斯被困的那个岛叫做Ruffle Bar。
And it lies only a 20-minute boat ride away from the coast of Brooklyn.
距布鲁克林海岸仅 20 分钟船程。
Far from being traumatized or ashamed of his exploits, Alex wanted nothing more than to go back out there.
亚历克斯并没有因为自己的事迹而受到创伤或羞愧，他只想回到那里。
And from the vantage of my overpriced, undersized apartment, I wanted to see a place where you could be totally alone in the wilderness, smelling your own death in the air, while in at least theoretical commuting distance to midtown Manhattan.
从我价格过高、面积较小的公寓的角度来看，我想看到一个地方，在那里你可以完全独自在荒野中，在空气中闻到自己死亡的味道，同时至少在理论上可以到达曼哈顿中城的通勤距离。
So we hired a boat to take us to Ruffle Bar.
所以我们租了一艘船带我们去Ruffle Bar。
In truth, I wasn't as completely surprised as some might be to learn that such a place exists.
事实上，当我得知有这样一个地方存在时，我并不像某些人那样完全感到惊讶。
I grew up near the islands of Jamaica Bay, in a neighborhood called Canarsie.
我在牙买加湾岛屿附近一个叫卡纳西的社区长大。
And when I was little, my friends and I would cut through the empty lots near my house to explore the mix of trash and nature on the shoreline.
当我小的时候，我和我的朋友们会穿过我家附近的空地，探索海岸线上垃圾和自然的混合。
It was a place totally apart from the rest of my mostly urban childhood.
这是一个与我大部分城市童年时光完全不同的地方。
A secret place that my friends who lived even 10 or 15 blocks away were unaware existed.
这是一个秘密的地方，即使是住在 10 或 15 个街区之外的朋友也不知道它的存在。
But then, the smaller islands around New York have always occupied a weird place on the edge of the city.
但纽约周围的小岛屿总是在城市边缘占据一个奇怪的位置。
Home to all sorts of enterprise that the citizenry either doesn't know about or prefers not to see.
这里是公民不知道或不愿意看到的各种企业的所在地。
Sanitariums and prisons, potter's fields and grand failed schemes.
疗养院和监狱、陶工田和失败的宏伟计划。
Ruffle Bar itself had been the site of several of the latter.
Ruffle 酒吧本身就是其中几家酒吧的所在地。
Since the Civil War, it has housed a ferry stop, a resort hotel, and even a short-lived, doomed community of some 40 buildings.
自内战以来，这里曾是一个轮渡站、一家度假酒店，甚至还有一个由约 40 栋建筑组成的短暂而注定失败的社区。
We stop in front of a concrete foundation.
我们停在一个混凝土地基前。
A what?
一个什么？
Brett Martin A building of some kind was here.
布雷特·马丁 这里有一座某种建筑物。
Oh look, this is a cool thing.
哦，看，这是一件很酷的事情。
This is one of the World War II things that's here.
这是这里的二战时期的事情之一。
You open them up, and you can go inside.
你打开它们，你就可以进去了。
There's a room in there.
里面有一个房间。
It might be something like a bunker or something.
它可能是像掩体之类的东西。
You see the rope here?
你看到这里的绳子了吗？
And the rope is really old, I think.
我认为绳子真的很旧。
Let me take a picture of this.
让我拍一张照片。
There are no buildings left here.
这里已经没有任何建筑物了。
The island is returned to a deeply wild state.
该岛恢复了原始状态。
There's a wall of dense brush and a few trees around which sinister gulls are circling.
这里有一堵茂密的灌木丛和几棵树，邪恶的海鸥在周围盘旋。
We pass a flock of ducks who take one look of Alex and wisely move away.
我们经过一群鸭子，它们看了亚历克斯一眼，就明智地走开了。
I'm really thinking about where the heck is the scooter.
我真的在想踏板车到底在哪里。
Because it seems like as we're turning, there should be more shoreline here.
因为看起来当我们转弯时，这里应该有更多的海岸线。
Dude, is that it?
老兄，是这个吗？
Alex Zharov Yep, that's exactly it.
Alex Zharov 是的，就是这样。
Oh, wow.
哦，哇。
This is the scooter I tried to dig out.
这是我试图挖出来的踏板车。
Let me show you.
让我告诉你。
Maybe you'll see the glass and stuff.
也许你会看到玻璃和其他东西。
As we search for Alex's Buddhist medallion that he'd left in the excitement of the helicopter rescue, we walk across a plain of thick, dry grass, matted down like a carpet.
当我们寻找亚历克斯在直升机救援时兴奋地留下的佛教徽章时，我们走过一片厚实干燥的草地，草地像地毯一样铺满了地毯。
Underneath, you can hear shells crunching and mysterious things scurrying around.
在下面，你可以听到贝壳嘎吱作响的声音和神秘的东西四处乱窜的声音。
Still, reminders that we are in fact in a major metropolis are always close at hand.
尽管如此，我们实际上身处一个大都市的提醒总是近在咫尺。
For one thing, there's the garbage-- piles of plastic and driftwood, but also shoes, steering wheels, prescription bottles, deflated balloons, a washer/dryer, several refrigerators.
一方面，这里有垃圾——成堆的塑料和浮木，还有鞋子、方向盘、处方瓶、泄气的气球、洗衣机/烘干机、几台冰箱。
And, oddly, boats-- three perfectly intact ones, complete with oars.
奇怪的是，还有船——三艘完好无损，还配有桨。
I hesitate to point these out to Alex.
我犹豫是否向亚历克斯指出这些。
Though, to be fair, they're probably too heavy for him to have dragged to the water.
不过，公平地说，它们可能太重了，他无法拖到水里。
And then there's this reminder of civilization.
然后就是文明的提醒。
[CELL PHONE RINGING] Alex Zharov Hold on.
[手机铃声]亚历克斯扎罗夫等一下。
He was always close enough to the city that simply having a cellphone would have had him tucked safely into bed within half an hour.
他总是离城市很近，只要有一部手机，他就能在半小时内安全地躺在床上。
Alex was finally rescued after seven hours, thanks to Roman and Glubochansky.
感谢罗曼和格卢博昌斯基，亚历克斯在七个小时后终于获救。
Back on the boat, they were having a fine old time.
回到船上，他们度过了一段美好的时光。
A police helicopter was performing drills nearby.
一架警用直升机正在附近进行演习。
And apparently no slouches in the cliched castaway department themselves, they had figured out that they could signal it with a mirror-- but why rush?
显然，在陈词滥调的漂流者部门中，他们自己也没有懈怠，他们已经发现他们可以用镜子发出信号——但为什么要着急呢？
We really enjoyed the time staying there.
我们真的很享受住在那里的时光。
We were just sitting on the boat and smoking the last tobacco that we had left.
我们只是坐在船上，抽着剩下的最后一根烟。
And we make a deal that we're not going to eat each other if you're really going to get hungry.
我们达成协议，如果你真的饿了，我们不会互相吃掉。
So basically we were having fun.
所以基本上我们玩得很开心。
Just a little bit, no hassle, no nothing, very quiet, nice weather.
就一点点，没有麻烦，什么都没有，非常安静，天气很好。
Oh, so you were actually holding off signaling the helicopters while you had a nice day?
哦，所以你在度过愉快的一天时实际上推迟了向直升机发出信号？
Still, as it began to get dark and the cigarettes ran out, the friends thought it was probably time to get a move on.
尽管如此，随着天色开始变暗，香烟也用完了，朋友们认为可能是时候继续前进了。
A helicopter soon arrived and airlifted them off the boat.
一架直升飞机很快抵达，将他们从船上空运下来。
It wasn't until they were safely ashore, wrapped in blankets and being fed complimentary cookies, that either of them happened to mention that there'd been a third passenger.
直到他们安全上岸，裹着毯子，吃着免费的饼干，他们才碰巧提到还有第三名乘客。
When the helicopter came back for Alex, cold, exhaustion and dehydration had left him in a trance-like, almost wild state.
当直升机接亚历克斯回来时，寒冷、疲惫和脱水让他处于一种恍惚、近乎疯狂的状态。
And for him, this island will always be a place where maybe there be monsters.
而对于他来说，这座岛屿永远都是一个说不定有怪物的地方。
And when I was here, I was wondering if it's a totally wild place.
当我来到这里时，我想知道这是否是一个完全荒野的地方。
Are there any animals here other than birds?
这里除了鸟以外还有其他动物吗？
I was maybe hoping to see some cool animal like a badger or something.
我也许希望看到一些很酷的动物，比如獾之类的。
I like badgers a lot, actually.
其实我很喜欢獾。
Is that right?
是这样吗？
Alex Zharov Yeah, it's one of my favorite animals.
亚历克斯·扎罗夫（Alex Zharov）是的，它是我最喜欢的动物之一。
You know, I like badgers for the same reason probably I like the state of Utah, where I never was.
你知道，我喜欢獾的原因可能就像我喜欢犹他州一样，但我从未去过那里。
It's like something that has some kind of-- what's it called?
它就像有某种东西——它叫什么？
Like a secret it's hiding?
就像隐藏着什么秘密一样？
Or it's like they attract me in the way that they might be hiding something cool from me.
或者他们吸引我的方式可能是他们向我隐瞒了一些很酷的东西。
And that's what, after many hours spent with Alex, I find myself liking about him the most.
这就是，在与亚历克斯相处了很多个小时之后，我发现自己最喜欢他的地方。
His insistence on finding mystery and adventure everywhere he looks.
他坚持在所到之处寻找神秘和冒险。
It's easy to laugh at that, to write it all off as adolescent stupidity.
人们很容易对此一笑置之，将其视为青春期的愚蠢行为。
But what if it's more than that?
但如果不止于此呢？
What if it's also a kind of adolescent magic?
如果这也是一种青春期魔法呢？
Actually, I'm thinking that this needed to happen.
事实上，我认为这需要发生。
I think if I was a boring person, and I would just stay at home all the time and be like a nerd, I would never get into this situation.
我想，如果我是一个无聊的人，一直呆在家里，像个书呆子一样，我永远不会陷入这种境地。
So I think this happened strictly because I was with the right people, at the right time in the right situation.
所以我认为这一切的发生完全是因为我在正确的时间、正确的情况下与正确的人在一起。
Think about that.
想想看。
Every step of the way, by almost any measure, Alex could not have been more wrong.
从几乎任何标准来看，亚历克斯的每一步都错得离谱。
It takes a special kind of grace to turn that into right time, right place.
需要一种特殊的恩典才能将其转化为正确的时间、正确的地点。
And how can you help but envy that?
你怎么能不羡慕呢？
Who wouldn't rather live in a world where if you believe you should have an adventure, you do?
谁不愿意生活在一个如果你相信自己应该冒险的话，你就会冒险的世界呢？
In which each of your mistakes doesn't narrow your life, but expands it.
你的每一个错误都不会缩小你的生活，反而会扩展你的生活。
In which the worst thing that could possibly happen is being bored.
其中可能发生的最糟糕的事情就是感到无聊。
And you can go to sleep on stormy seas and trust that when you wake up, if you're very lucky, you'll be in Utah.
你可以在波涛汹涌的大海上入睡，并相信当你醒来时，如果你很幸运，你会在犹他州。
What I'm trying to say is this-- Alex does something I never in a million years would have thought possible.
我想说的是——亚历克斯做了我在一百万年内都无法想象的事情。
He makes me think it might be cool to be a teenager again.
他让我觉得再次成为青少年可能很酷。
There's a story that back in the 1830s, a ship carrying $54,000 in Mexican gold was hijacked by pirates outside Jamaica Bay and that the treasure was buried somewhere near Ruffle Bar.
有一个故事，早在 1830 年代，一艘载有价值 54,000 美元墨西哥黄金的船在牙买加湾外被海盗劫持，宝藏被埋在 Ruffle Bar 附近的某个地方。
On our way back from the island I tell Alex this, and he listens with great interest.
从岛上回来的路上，我把这件事告诉了亚历克斯，他饶有兴趣地听着。
If he found the treasure, he wants to know, could he keep it?
如果他找到了宝藏，他想知道他能保留它吗？
Maybe, I say, if he didn't tell anybody.
我说，也许吧，如果他不告诉任何人的话。
To which Alex answers precisely as I know he will, the only way he possibly can.
亚历克斯对此做出了准确的回答，我知道他会这样做，这是他可能做到的唯一方法。
He says, but what if I told everybody?
他说，但是如果我告诉所有人呢？
Brett Martin, in New York.
布雷特·马丁，在纽约。
Ira Glass Coming up, the thing about Chicago that nobody outside Chicago believes about Chicago, but that actually is completely and totally true.
艾拉·格拉斯（Ira Glass）即将登场，关于芝加哥的事情，除了芝加哥之外没有人相信芝加哥，但这实际上是完全正确的。
That's in a minute, from Chicago Public Radio and Public Radio International, when our program continues.
稍后，芝加哥公共广播电台和国际公共广播电台将继续我们的节目。
It's This American Life, I'm Ira Glass.
这就是美国生活，我是艾拉·格拉斯。
Each week on our program, of course, we choose a theme, bring you a variety of different kinds of stories on that theme, Today's show, in the shadow of the city.
当然，我们每周的节目都会选择一个主题，为您带来关于该主题的各种不同类型的故事，今天的节目，在城市的阴影下。
Stories of things happening out of sight from most of us, but very close to us.
故事发生在我们大多数人看不见的地方，但却离我们很近。
We've arrived at Act Two of our program.
我们已经到了节目的第二幕了。
Act Two, The Thin Gray Line.
第二幕，细细的灰线。
Sometimes things in the shadow of the city should just stay in the shadow and sometimes not.
有时城市阴影中的事物应该留在阴影中，有时则不然。
Right after Hurricane Katrina, a bus tour in New Orleans started called Hurricane Katrina-- America's Greatest Catastrophe.
卡特里娜飓风过后，新奥尔良的巴士之旅开始了，名为卡特里娜飓风——美国最大的灾难。
It has since been named America's Worst Catastrophe, but same kind of idea.
此后它被命名为“美国最严重的灾难”，但也是同样的想法。
It is designed for out-of-towners who have come to New Orleans, so they can see for themselves, among other things, the wreckage and the devastation.
它是为来到新奥尔良的外地人设计的，这样他们就可以亲眼目睹残骸和破坏。
And we thought, you know what would be really interesting?
我们想，你知道什么才是真正有趣的吗？
What would be really interesting for this tour is if we could send a local.
这次旅行真正有趣的是如果我们能派一个当地人去。
If we could ask a local to take the tour and give us their impressions.
如果我们可以请当地人参加这次旅行并给我们留下他们的印象。
Well, Cheryl Wagner's house was ruined by the levee breach.
好吧，谢丽尔·瓦格纳的房子因堤坝决口而被毁。
Seven feet of water on the first floor, her roof got blown off-- she seemed perfect for the job.
一楼有七英尺深的水，她的屋顶被吹掉了——她看起来非常适合这份工作。
And so one year ago, when we first heard about this, she agreed to get on the bus.
所以一年前，当我们第一次听说这件事时，她同意上车。
And she put together this story, which we first broadcast a year ago.
她整理了这个故事，我们一年前首次播出。
By the time Gray Line starting running its Hurricane Katrina-- America's Greatest Catastrophe tour, I was already sick of disaster tourism.
当灰线开始举办卡特里娜飓风——美国最大的灾难之旅时，我已经厌倦了灾难旅游。
I had flipped off hippie photographers who mountain biked through the garbage of my flooded street to take close ups of my neighbor's Virgin Mary lawn grotto, ardently speckled with muck and debris.
我对嬉皮士摄影师很反感，他们骑着山地自行车穿过被洪水淹没的街道的垃圾，为我邻居的圣母玛利亚草坪石窟拍摄特写，那里布满了泥土和碎片。
I had endured holy rollers stepping onto my porch when it was blazing hot, and I was trying to bleach what I could of my belongings, offering me a gallon of water and a mold mask, a good one, an N95, if I would sit and listen to a scripture.
当天气炎热时，我忍受着神圣的滚轮踏上我的门廊，我试图尽可能地漂白我的物品，给我一加仑的水和一个防霉口罩，一个好的，一个N95，如果我愿意坐下来听经文的话。
And at a time when some New Orleanians were still coming home to find their mother's bodies, I watched white families thoroughly enjoy a morning outing in the ruins of a black neighborhood.
当一些新奥尔良人仍在回家寻找母亲的尸体时，我看到白人家庭在黑人社区的废墟中尽情享受早晨的郊游。
I saw them lift their children onto the back bumper of a small yellow school bus that had floated into the barge that crashed through the levee.
我看到他们把孩子抱到一辆黄色小校车的后保险杠上，这辆校车漂进了冲过堤坝的驳船。
I saw these children smile and say cheese.
我看到这些孩子微笑着说奶酪。
But even though I'm sick of disasters and their hangers-on, I'm also not immune from touring.
但即使我厌倦了灾难和他们的追随者，我也不能免受巡演的影响。
I didn't spend Thanksgiving morning watching the Macy's Day Parade or making oyster dressing.
感恩节早上我没有观看梅西百货游行或制作牡蛎酱。
I went over to the breach in the 17th Street Canal to see the hole that flooded my house.
我走到第 17 街运河的缺口处，想看看淹没我房子的洞。
I was surprised to see lots of other people spending their holiday doing the same thing.
我很惊讶地看到很多其他人在假期里做着同样的事情。
Even my mother, who now, oftentimes as not, cries when she comes to see me in the city, for some reason recently crossed the state line for a Saturday morning jaunt through the wreckage in Mississippi.
就连我的母亲，现在常常在城里来看我时都会哭，她最近出于某种原因越过州界线，在周六早上穿过密西西比州的废墟进行短途旅行。
She came back saying, you really should go see Biloxi.
她回来说，你真的应该去看看比洛克西。
So I haven't made it to Biloxi yet, but with mixed feelings I decided to fork over my $35 to the professionals at Gray Line and check out the official tour of my own city.
所以我还没有到达比洛克西，但带着复杂的心情，我决定向 Gray Line 的专业人士支付 35 美元，并查看我自己城市的官方旅游。
Good afternoon, everyone.
大家下午好。
My name is Pat [?
我的名字是帕特[？
Dupuis.
杜普伊斯。
?] I'm going to be your guide for this Katrina tour.
？] 我将担任您这次卡特里娜飓风之旅的导游。
The tour is going to mainly be based on three things, and that is the vastness of the devastation that occurred here, the importance of the city of New Orleans, and its rebirth.
这次旅行将主要基于三件事，那就是这里发生的巨大破坏、新奥尔良市的重要性及其重生。
We're on a Gray Line mini bus, pulling off from the fake lighthouse where we all met in the French Quarter.
我们乘坐灰线迷你巴士，从我们在法国区相遇的假灯塔下车。
The brochure made big promises to "drive past an actual levy that breached, and see the resulting devastation." But the tour gets off to a dullish, field trip-like start.
该小册子做出了重大承诺，“驶过实际违反的征税，并看到由此造成的破坏”。但这次旅行以平淡、类似实地考察的方式开始。
On your right is an earthen levy.
在你的右边是一个土征兵。
A levy comes from a French word meaning to raise.
征税（levy）源自法语单词，意思是筹集。
There's maybe 20 of us on this tour-- relatives of disaster workers, some retirees, a couple from Denver in town for a wedding.
这次旅行大约有 20 个人——救灾人员的亲戚、一些退休人员、一对来自丹佛来镇上参加婚礼的夫妇。
Even a few unlucky folks who got bumped to our bus because their first choice, the cemetery and gris-gris tour, sold out.
甚至有一些不幸的人因为他们的第一选择——墓地和灰灰之旅——已经卖完了而被撞上我们的巴士。
This is the Ernest N Morial Convention Center.
这是欧内斯特·莫里尔会议中心。
This was another thing that you saw on the TV.
这是你在电视上看到的另一件事。
In the short time it takes us to get to the convention center, some people already seem bored.
到达会议中心的时间不长，一些人已经显得很无聊。
A few are busy flipping through the photo album the tour guide passed of flooded houses, but that's because the outside of the cleaned-up convention center with just a few workers shining windows is boring.
一些人正忙着翻阅导游经过的被洪水淹没的房屋的相册，但那是因为清理过的会议中心的外面只有几个工人擦着窗户，很无聊。
It would never be part of any normal city tour.
它永远不会成为任何正常城市旅游的一部分。
After a perfunctory drive past the now spit-shined exterior of the Superdome, we get on the interstate and head out towards Lakeview where the tourists are promised more current and less historical misery.
漫不经心地开车经过现在闪闪发光的超级圆顶体育场外墙后，我们上了州际公路，前往湖景区，那里向游客承诺更多的是现代的、更少的历史苦难。
Now I want to prepare you a little bit.
现在我想让你做一点准备。
If you've haven't been back here, if you haven't ridden around the city, we're going to start going through some of the more devastated parts that we're allowed to go in.
如果你还没有回到过这里，如果你还没有在城市里骑行，我们将开始参观一些我们被允许进入的更受破坏的地区。
Like I said, we can't go into the Lower Ninth Ward, which is really bad.
就像我说的，我们不能进入下九区，这真的很糟糕。
But you'll see enough devastation here, I think, so you'll get the whole idea of what it might have been like.
但我想，你会在这里看到足够多的破坏，所以你会完全了解它可能是什么样子。
You'll see some of the houses.
你会看到一些房子。
Like this one right here-- you see it's got that red thing on it?
就像这里的这个——你看到上面有红色的东西了吗？
That's tagged for demolition.
那个被标记为拆除。
We drive past ruined houses and askew cars, and some of my fellow passengers snap photos.
我们开车经过毁坏的房屋和歪斜的汽车，我的一些同行乘客拍了照片。
A few expressed surprise that anyone in New Orleans has middle class-looking homes.
一些人对新奥尔良的任何人都拥有看起来像中产阶级的房屋感到惊讶。
These were nice houses, I hear one woman say to her husband, as if this makes a family's suffering worse.
这些房子都很漂亮，我听到一位女士对她的丈夫说，好像这会让一个家庭的痛苦变得更糟。
No one I talked to tells me that they're particularly surprised by what they see.
与我交谈的人中没有人告诉我他们对所看到的情况感到特别惊讶。
Maybe it's the remove of looking out the windows, or the months of pictures they've already seen on TV.
也许是因为不再看窗外，或者是因为他们已经在电视上看过几个月的照片了。
All in all, despite the lurid promises made in the brochure, the Gray Line tour is a lot of driving around and wishing you could get out and take a close up look at that hole where someone hacked their way through their attic and onto their roof.
总而言之，尽管宣传册上做了一些耸人听闻的承诺，但灰线之旅还是需要你开车四处转转，希望你能下车，近距离观察那个有人从阁楼侵入屋顶的洞。
But you can't, you just sit there gazing through a glass barrier, trying to absorb factoids.
但你不能，你只是坐在那里透过玻璃屏障凝视，试图吸收事实。
This is where they perfected perma press fabric, orange juice concentrate, low-fat peanut butter.
他们在这里完善了 Perma Press 织物、浓缩橙汁、低脂花生酱。
After a while I start to feel bad for our tour guide.
过了一会儿，我开始为我们的导游感到难过。
Pat has already informed us that she and her bus driver, Sly, were out of work and tips for four months.
帕特已经告诉我们，她和她的公交车司机斯莱已经失业四个月了，也没有小费。
That her house flooded, and Sly is stuck living on a cruise ship he is about to get put off of.
她的房子被淹了，斯莱被困在一艘即将下船的游轮上。
I realize she's in a no-win situation.
我意识到她处于一个双赢的境地。
Gray Line has promised an all-out grisly disaster tour, but expects its tour guides to focus on rebirth as well and be a civic booster at the same time.
灰线承诺提供一场全面的可怕灾难之旅，但希望其导游也能专注于重生，同时成为公民的推动者。
That's why every house that's off its foundation needs to be countered with a FEMA trailer of hope nearby.
这就是为什么每栋脱离地基的房屋都需要在附近放置联邦应急管理局的希望拖车来应对。
But, here you have some hope.
但是，在这里你有一些希望。
There's a FEMA trailer.
有联邦应急管理局的预告片。
There's somebody that's getting ready to work on their house.
有人正准备修理他们的房子。
They want to move back.
他们想搬回去。
So it's a little ray of hope when you see these trailers.
所以当你看到这些预告片时，你会看到一线希望。
Never mind that the FEMA trailer won't have any electricity for months.
不用担心联邦应急管理局的拖车几个月都没有电。
This tour is not about accuracy, it's about getting to the rebirth that was promised when we first got on the mini bus.
这次旅行并不在于准确性，而是为了实现我们第一次登上迷你巴士时所承诺的重生。
It's about presenting a grand narrative that takes all the terrible stuff that has happened and makes it OK.
这是关于呈现一个宏大的叙事，将所有已经发生的可怕的事情都化解为美好。
A bad thing happened, and then it kept happening, and then it kept happening, and then it kept happening.
一件坏事发生了，然后它不断发生，然后它不断发生，然后它不断发生。
But now it's getting fixed, so you can go eat your beignet.
但现在问题已经解决了，所以你可以去吃你的贝奈特饼了。
But despite all the talk of hope, what comes through is a palpable feeling of desperation.
但尽管大家都在谈论希望，但带来的却是明显的绝望感。
You are our best ambassadors.
你们是我们最好的大使。
You can go home.
你可以回家了。
You can tell people that yes, you can come to New Orleans.
你可以告诉人们，是的，你可以来新奥尔良。
You can breathe the air.
你可以呼吸空气。
You can drink the water.
你可以喝水。
You can eat the food.
你可以吃食物了。
You can take a tour and see the tomb of Marie Laveau.
您可以参观玛丽拉沃的坟墓。
On what tour in the history of this city did any tour guide have to beg people to come to New Orleans?
在这座城市历史上的哪次旅行中，导游必须恳求人们来新奥尔良？
You can stroll through the Garden District and see the beautiful home of Nicolas Cage and John Goodman.
您可以漫步穿过花园区，参观尼古拉斯·凯奇和约翰·古德曼的美丽家园。
You can go to the plantations, plantations were high and dry.
你可以去种植园，种植园又高又干燥。
I understand what Gray Line is trying to do.
我明白灰线想要做什么。
It's just depressing that they have to do it and that they're choosing to do it that particular way-- trying to get help by sugarcoating the problem.
令人沮丧的是，他们必须这么做，而且他们选择以特定的方式来做——试图通过粉饰问题来寻求帮助。
If you really wanted people to understand Hurricane Katrina-- America's Greatest Catastrophe, you'd have to give a completely different disaster tour.
如果你真的想让人们了解卡特里娜飓风——美国最大的灾难，你就必须进行一次完全不同的灾难之旅。
And with that in mind, as a public service I'm about to save you $35 and take you on my own tour.
考虑到这一点，作为一项公共服务，我将为您节省 35 美元，并带您参加我自己的游览。
It won't go near the French Quarter, it won't be on a bus, and it starts here.
它不会靠近法国区，不会在公共汽车上，而是从这里开始。
I want you to know that we talked [INAUDIBLE] about FEMA this and Federal this, and I'm sick and tired of Federal anything!
我想让你知道，我们 [听不清] 谈论了 FEMA 和联邦的问题，而我对联邦的任何事情都感到厌倦！
I'm sick of it.
我受够了。
Our first stop, the perpetual public meeting.
我们的第一站，永久公开会议。
The one I've been attending nonstop since I got back in September.
自从我九月份回来以来，我就一直不停地参加这个活动。
This was recorded at the public comment portion of the Bring New Orleans Back Commission's Urban Planning Committee final report presentation held at a downtown hotel a few weeks ago.
这是几周前在市中心一家酒店举行的新奥尔良回归委员会城市规划委员会最终报告演示会上的公众评论部分记录的。
But it could be from any number of official and unofficial state, local and neighborhood meetings that go on in New Orleans now almost every day of the week.
但它可能来自现在几乎每周每天在新奥尔良举行的任何数量的官方和非官方的州、地方和社区会议。
I am a working person.
我是一个工作人员。
I pay Federal taxes.
我缴纳联邦税。
Because I want everybody to hear what I'm saying-- FEMA comes out of my damn paycheck.
因为我希望每个人都听我说的话——联邦应急管理局是从我那该死的薪水里拿出来的。
There are economic planning meetings, arts planning meetings, education planning meetings, government effectiveness meetings, city council meetings, neighborhood meetings, SBA information seminars.
有经济规划会议、艺术规划会议、教育规划会议、政府效能会议、市议会会议、邻里会议、SBA信息研讨会。
Since the storm, there's even a new section in the Times Picayune that lists the locations and times of that week's meetings.
风暴过后，《皮卡尤恩时报》甚至新增了一个版块，列出了本周会议的地点和时间。
These meetings are overwhelming-- not only because of their frequency, but also because of their intensity.
这些会议势不可挡——不仅因为它们的频率，还因为它们的强度。
At some of the early public meetings back in October, old women would step up to the mic and cry.
在十月份的一些早期公开会议上，老妇人会走到麦克风前哭泣。
Old men would address the mayor as if he were a young man, saying things like, I don't believe we've had the opportunity to meet.
老人们会像年轻人一样称呼市长，说一些诸如“我不相信我们有机会见面”之类的话。
Countless New Orleanians drive hours from other towns and other states to come to the meetings with the same message.
无数新奥尔良人从其他城镇和其他州驱车数小时来到这里，带着同样的信息参加会议。
My grandmother, my auntie, is in Texas getting sick from this stress, and I'm here today to find out what you're going to do about it.
我的祖母，我的阿姨，在德克萨斯州，因为这种压力而生病了，我今天来这里是为了看看你会采取什么措施。
The people on this commission, I thank you very much for your time.
非常感谢这个委员会的各位抽出宝贵时间。
If you can't give us direction, get the hell out of the way.
如果你不能给我们指明方向，那就滚吧。
That's all we're asking for.
这就是我们所要求的。
Now that some of these meetings seem to be lurching toward a final decision phase, people listen to them on the radio, watch them on the news, read about them in the paper, or see them whole on public access.
现在，其中一些会议似乎正进入最终决策阶段，人们通过广播收听它们，在新闻中观看它们，在报纸上阅读它们，或者在公共访问中看到它们的全部内容。
Weeks ahead of time, rumors fly about whether or not the city is going to declare your neighborhood viable or not.
提前几周，关于该市是否会宣布您的社区可行的谣言满天飞。
Whether or not you'll be allowed to fix your house.
是否允许您修理您的房子。
And if you do fix your house, whether the government will try to acquire it by eminent domain anyway and wipe your neighborhood from the face of the Earth.
如果你真的修好了你的房子，政府是否会试图通过征用权获得它，并将你的社区从地球表面抹去。
After certain meetings, people go around saying things like that Joe Canizaro wants to put a big green dot on my house.
在某些会议之后，人们到处说乔·卡尼扎罗想在我的房子上画一个大绿点。
Over my dead body.
在我的尸体上。
This perpetual public meeting spills out into everyday life.
这种永久的公开会议渗透到日常生活中。
In line at the grocery store, strangers tell me the exact dollar figure they owe on their ruined homes.
在杂货店排队时，陌生人告诉我他们因房屋被毁而欠下的确切金额。
Grown men wander into my backyard and tell me how much they miss their pet parrot they had to let go the night before the storm.
成年男人漫步到我的后院，告诉我他们有多么想念他们的宠物鹦鹉，他们不得不在暴风雨前一天晚上放走它。
Once a week, a stranger starts crying in front of me.
每周一次，一个陌生人开始在我面前哭泣。
Sometimes the perpetual public meeting turns surreal.
有时，永久的公开会议变得超现实。
The other day I was taking a walk along Bayou St. John and the police scuba divers were out there dragging the water for another suspected suicide.
有一天，我沿着圣约翰河口散步，警察潜水员正在为另一起疑似自杀事件拖水。
A man stopped his car, got out and walked over to me.
一个男人停下车，下了车，向我走过来。
His first question was quick, what are they looking for?
他的第一个问题很快，他们在寻找什么？
But his second question, the real reason he stopped, was pure public meeting.
但他的第二个问题，即他停下来的真正原因，是纯粹的公开会议。
Did you get any water?
你得到水了吗？
Meaning, was I flooded?
意思是，我被淹了吗？
Good, him, too.
很好，他也一样。
Then you've been down to City Hall to deal with that permitting?
那么你已经去市政厅办理许可了吗？
Can you believe that crap?
你能相信这种废话吗？
I live in the East, those guys were talking about making a park out of my house.
我住在东部，那些人正在谈论在我的房子里建一个公园。
I'm been staying out in River Ridge now, but we're getting it together.
我现在一直待在River Ridge，但我们正在聚在一起。
Next stop, City Park, near the police department horse stables.
下一站，城市公园，靠近警察局马厩。
One of the many places that has been transformed by the levy break.
这是因税收减免而发生改变的众多地方之一。
Not just ruined, but fundamentally altered.
不仅被毁了，而且从根本上改变了。
Lots of different people used to use this area.
很多不同的人曾经使用过这个区域。
Near the back, hikers, bird watchers, dog walkers and gay cruisers used to share a shady wooded trail.
在后面附近，徒步旅行者、观鸟者、遛狗者和同性恋巡游者过去常常共用一条阴凉的林间小道。
Nearby, a soccer field sometimes filled with the battle cries of military reenactors.
附近的足球场有时充满了军事重演者的战斗呐喊。
My boyfriend and I went to City Park one day recently and stumbled into a Hooverville, complete with guys who look like carnies rubbing their hands over trash can fires.
最近的一天，我和男朋友去了城市公园，偶然发现了胡佛维尔，里面有一些看起来像卡尼的家伙在垃圾桶的火上摩擦双手。
Streets next to the soccer field are now clogged with flood scum encrusted cars and limousines that someone towed there to strip before bringing them to the crusher.
足球场旁边的街道现在挤满了积满洪水浮渣的汽车和豪华轿车，有人把它们拖到那里进行清理，然后再将它们带到破碎机处。
Nearby, there are sad sack teepees fashioned of blue roofs tarps.
附近有一些用蓝色屋顶防水布制成的悲伤的麻袋圆锥形帐篷。
Teepees with people living in them.
圆锥形帐篷里有人居住。
Some asking around turned up that these were a bunch of Apache Indians who'd been promised work and then abandoned by their contractor.
一些人打听后发现，这些人是一群阿帕奇印第安人，他们曾被承诺工作，但后来被承包商抛弃了。
The back of City Park has turned to a place of chaos and filth that doesn't give you the Saturday barbecue feeling it did before the flood.
城市公园的后面变成了一片混乱和肮脏的地方，无法给你带来洪水前那种周六烧烤的感觉。
It gives me the feeling I got right after the storm.
它给我一种暴风雨过后的感觉。
After we first got back to the city and we saw an old man riding a bicycle, pulling a laughing old woman on a hospital gurney behind him.
刚回到城里，我们就看到一位骑着自行车的老人，身后拉着医院的轮床上一位笑着的老妇人。
There were not many people around.
周围人不多。
The old gurney couple did not seem like a good sign.
这对老轮床夫妇看上去可不是什么好兆头。
Next stop on my tour, my house.
我的旅行的下一站，我的家。
Outside, the picket fence is gone, and there's a water line.
外面，尖桩篱笆不见了，只有一条水线。
Inside, it's gutted to the frame and studs.
在里面，它的框架和螺柱都被掏空了。
Since I've had to sleep upstairs in a room with the walls cut open and siding blown off, when I open my eyes in the morning, like the Apache Indians, I see blue tarp.
由于我不得不睡在楼上一间墙壁被切开、壁板被吹掉的房间里，当我早上睁开眼睛时，就像阿帕奇印第安人一样，我看到的是蓝色防水布。
I brush my teeth at a spigot in the backyard with a Dixie cup.
我用迪克西杯在后院的水龙头处刷牙。
Friends come to see me and accidentally drive past our house, say the place unrecognizable now.
朋友来看我，不小心开车经过我们家，说现在已经认不出来了。
My boyfriend Jake and I are getting a little unrecognizable, too.
我和我男朋友杰克也变得有点认不出来了。
There are ways in which we have grown strange to ourselves.
在某些方面，我们对自己变得陌生。
Gone a little south, like City Park and the gurney couple.
向南一点，就像城市公园和轮床夫妇一样。
One afternoon, after a long day a prying lath off walls and carting wheelbarrows of plaster and rubble to the curb, I heard laughter and breaking glass from what used to be my backyard garden.
一天下午，经过漫长的一天，我用木板撬开了墙壁，把装满石膏和碎石的手推车推到了路边，我听到曾经是我后院花园的笑声和玻璃破碎的声音。
Jake and his friend, the carpenter, were swinging their legs off the back balcony.
杰克和他的木匠朋友正在后阳台上摆动双腿。
They had found a BB gun and were shooting out the few windows that were left on our shed.
他们找到了一把 BB 枪，正在向我们棚屋上仅存的几扇窗户射击。
Check this out, they said, and shattered another window.
他们说，看看这个，然后又打碎了另一扇窗户。
Don't do that, the old me, the pre-gurney me said.
不要那样做，老我，轮床前的我说。
Why not?
为什么不呢？
I looked around, the tin roof of our shed was peeled up.
我环顾四周，我们棚子的铁皮屋顶都被剥落了。
The gardenia, angel trumpet and sweet olive that I had planted almost a decade ago were all dead.
我差不多十年前种的栀子花、天使喇叭花、甜橄榄都死了。
The fence was down.
栅栏倒塌了。
And behind us, the neighbor's wall had fallen off of his second story leaving their upstairs kitchen exposed like a dollhouse.
在我们身后，邻居二楼的墙已经倒塌，楼上的厨房像玩具屋一样暴露在外。
With the kitchen clock still on the wall, open to the sky.
厨房的钟还挂在墙上，向天空敞开。
At night now, we can see downtown hotels shimmering across the dark and flooded blocks, like Emerald City in the distance.
现在到了晚上，我们可以看到市中心的酒店在黑暗和被洪水淹没的街区中闪闪发光，就像远处的翡翠城一样。
Why not shoot our shed windows out?
为什么不把我们棚子的窗户射出去呢？
OK, said the post-gurney me, but don't miss and hit the neighbor's China cabinet.
好吧，轮床后的我说，但不要错过并撞到邻居的瓷柜。
They might want those plates.
他们可能想要那些盘子。
You have reached the Federal Emergency Management Agency.
您已联系联邦紧急事务管理局。
Next stop, 1-800-621-FEMA.
下一站，1-800-621-FEMA。
Welcome to the utterly exhausting soul crushing grind that is having to juggle city, state, government and insurance bureaucracies for five months straight with no likely end in sight.
欢迎来到令人筋疲力尽、精神崩溃的苦差事，这里必须连续五个月与市、州、政府和保险官僚机构周旋，而且看不到结束的迹象。
Our first FEMA battle was over our roof.
我们的第一场 FEMA 战斗就在我们的屋顶上进行。
It blew off, and so we needed a tarp.
它被吹走了，所以我们需要一块防水布。
FEMA wouldn't tarp it, so we climbed up a few stories and tarped it ourselves.
联邦应急管理局不会给它盖防水布，所以我们爬上几层楼，自己盖上防水布。
A month or so later, FEMA sent someone over who untarped our tarping, but only retarped half of it.
大约一个月后，联邦应急管理局派人过来解开了我们的防水布，但只重新修复了一半。
So we had to call and fight and explain and call, then give up and reclimb and retarp a, by then, even slicker roof.
所以我们不得不打电话、打架、解释、打电话，然后放弃，重新爬上，重新铺上防水布，到那时，屋顶会更光滑。
Everyone has stories like this.
每个人都有这样的故事。
People accidentally bumped from FEMA's trailer list.
人们不小心从 FEMA 的预告片列表中删除。
People with keys and no trailer.
有钥匙但没有拖车的人。
People with trailers and no keys.
有拖车但没有钥匙的人。
Trailers blocking doors of houses people are trying to renovate.
拖车挡住了人们试图翻修的房屋的门。
Meanwhile, teams of contractors come and go.
与此同时，承包商队伍来来去去。
Recently, an article in the paper confirmed what everyone suspected-- that the government pays at minimum almost $60,000 a trailer.
最近，报纸上的一篇文章证实了大家的怀疑——政府至少为一辆拖车支付近 6 万美元。
The same amount it would likely cost to rewire and re-sheetrock many someones' house.
为许多人的房子重新布线和重新铺设石膏板所花费的费用可能与许多人的房子相同。
Add to this phone books that no longer work, since half the people and businesses in them are now gone.
添加到不再有效的电话簿中，因为其中一半的人和企业现在已经消失了。
The constant stream of misinformation, correction and re-misinformation.
不断出现的错误信息、纠正和重新错误信息。
And the garbage piles which get shuffled back and forth as dozens of crews argue about whose job it is to pick up shingles, and whose job it is to pick up the fridges, and whose job it is to pick up that dead dog still in the pink toy box.
当数十名工作人员争论谁的工作是捡起木瓦，谁的工作是捡起冰箱，谁的工作是捡起仍然放在粉红色玩具箱里的死狗时，垃圾堆来回移动。
But like Pat at Gray Line, I feel compelled to throw in that FEMA trailer of hope, because there is some hope.
但就像灰线的帕特一样，我觉得有必要加入联邦紧急事务管理局的希望预告片，因为还有一些希望。
I catch glimpses of it in the new-found engineering wonkiness among Louisianans who now speak of sheet piling ratios and Dutch hydraulic engineering over coffee.
我从路易斯安那人中新发现的工程狂热中瞥见了这一点，他们现在一边喝咖啡一边谈论钢板桩比率和荷兰水利工程。
And the blond Southern women strapping on work gloves over their manicures and donning orange vests to pick up garbage in neighborhoods that they never set their SUVs in before.
金发碧眼的南方女性在修指甲时戴上工作手套，穿上橙色背心，在她们以前从未停放过SUV的社区里捡垃圾。
And then the folks who drive by and honk and cheer these ladies of garbage on, who sometimes pull over, get out and help.
然后开车经过的人们会按喇叭，为这些垃圾女士加油，有时她们会靠边停车，下车帮忙。
It's in the growing number of "apolitical" rallies.
这是越来越多的“非政治”集会。
A strange new Southern phenomenon where moms strap their schoolgirl daughters into life vests whenever Bush comes to town to run his mouth.
南方出现了一种奇怪的新现象，每当布什进城整顿嘴巴时，妈妈们就把女学生的女儿绑在救生衣上。
The trailer of hope is also where you least expect to find it-- right on my own wrecked street, in the gutted house on the corner where a man lives upstairs with a lantern.
希望的拖车也在你最意想不到的地方找到它——就在我自己破败的街道上，在街角那栋被毁坏的房子里，楼上住着一个提着灯笼的男人。
And the moment the other night when Jake and I walked our dogs by and he invited us to lay our hands on the side of his home.
那天晚上，当我和杰克遛狗经过时，他邀请我们把手放在他家的一侧。
He said that two roofers had just fallen 40 feet off the top of it, bounced on the flood-wrecked grass and survived.
他说，两名屋顶工人刚刚从屋顶 40 英尺处掉下来，在被洪水淹没的草地上弹跳，幸存下来。
That we should touch his ruined house because it was blessed.
我们应该触摸他被毁坏的房子，因为它是受祝福的。
And last month, while Americans flew into one of the most ludicrous nationwide fits of reverse-racism hysteria I've witnessed in my lifetime over our mayor's hapless deployment of a parliament lyric, over Chocolate City, people who live here were working things out.
上个月，当美国人因我们的市长不幸地在巧克力城上空部署议会歌词而陷入我一生中见过的最荒唐的全国性反向种族主义歇斯底里之一时，住在这里的人们正在解决问题。
A conversation I overheard between a Middle Eastern store clerk and his black customer about some shootings at a second line parade made me glad to be, however imperfectly, home.
我无意中听到一位中东店员和他的黑人顾客谈论二线游行中的一些枪击事件，这让我很高兴回到家，尽管不完美。
That cutting up at the second line Sunday, the customer said, get that out of here.
周日，第二条线的车被切断了，顾客说，把它从这里拿走。
That's nothing but foolishness.
那只不过是愚蠢而已。
Yes, the store clerk nodded, it is foolish.
是的，店员点点头，真是愚蠢。
It is not very chocolate.
这不是很巧克力。
Cheryl Wagner, she lives in mid-city in New Orleans.
谢丽尔·瓦格纳（Cheryl Wagner）住在新奥尔良市中心。
She did that story for us a year ago.
一年前她为我们做了那个故事。
She says these days her house does have walls.
她说现在她的房子确实有墙了。
And the main difference with New Orleans now, she says, is that it's so violent.
她说，现在与新奥尔良的主要区别在于它非常暴力。
She says she still believes in a trailer called hope, except now she says she's scared she might get shot in it.
她说她仍然相信一部名为“希望”的预告片，只是现在她说她害怕自己可能会在里面被枪杀。
[MUSIC - "CHOCOLATE CITY," ROGER TROUTMAN]
[音乐 - “巧克力城”，罗杰·特劳特曼]
Act Three, Yes, in My Backyard.
第三幕，是的，在我的后院。
Now this story about some of the mysterious things happening on the edges of the city, in the shadow of city, right under our noses.
现在这个故事讲述的是发生在城市边缘、城市阴影下、就在我们眼皮底下的一些神秘事件。
And to put this story in some context, we're going to turn now to Jorge Just.
为了将这个故事放在一定的背景下，我们现在将转向豪尔赫·贾斯特。
You may remember Jorge.
你可能还记得豪尔赫。
He's done some stories for our program.
他为我们的节目编了一些故事。
He says that when you move to a new city, you cannot get into the regular conversations that everybody else gets into.
他说，当你搬到一个新城市时，你无法参与其他人所参与的常规对话。
He found this out a little while back when he did the one thing that everyone in Chicago agrees is the very worst thing that anybody can do.
不久前，当他做了一件芝加哥每个人都认为是任何人都能做的最糟糕的事情时，他发现了这一点。
He moved to New York.
他搬到了纽约。
All New Yorkers want to talk about is what subway train to take to get from point A to point B.
所有纽约人都想谈论的是从 A 点到 B 点乘坐什么地铁。
And it goes on and on, and you can't say anything.
就这样一直持续下去，你却什么也说不出来。
You can't be like, you know they discovered a 10th planet?
你不能说，你知道他们发现了第十颗行星？
And they'll be like, well, you would take the DMZ.
他们会说，好吧，你会占领非军事区。
Take it to the 10th planet.
带它去第十颗行星。
Jorge Just It's inescapable.
豪尔赫：这是不可避免的。
And when that conversation finally peters out, it somehow-- and it doesn't fail-- turns into a conversation about cell phone reception.
当谈话最终逐渐结束时，它不知何故——而且不会失败——变成了关于手机接收的谈话。
You can't get into the conversation.
你无法进入对话。
You don't know where the dead spots are.
你不知道死角在哪里。
So you can't do any small talk.
所以你们不能闲聊。
So what happens is the small talk becomes, oh, you just moved to New York?
那么接下来的闲聊就变成了，哦，你刚搬到纽约？
Where are you from?
你从哪来？
Oh, you're from Chicago?
哦，你来自芝加哥？
How do you like New York?
你喜欢纽约吗？
How do you like New York?
你喜欢纽约吗？
Everybody wants to know how you like New York, because they want you to say, New York's the greatest place that I've ever been to.
每个人都想知道你有多喜欢纽约，因为他们想让你说，纽约是我去过的最棒的地方。
And I've burned all of my connections to anywhere that I've ever been before because I love it so much here.
我已经烧毁了与我以前去过的任何地方的所有联系，因为我非常喜欢这里。
When in fact, people would say so how do you like New York?
事实上，人们会说你喜欢纽约吗？
You're like, well, you know, I like it.
你就像，嗯，你知道，我喜欢它。
It's big and stuff, but I really like Chicago.
芝加哥很大，但我真的很喜欢芝加哥。
Oh really?
哦真的吗？
What's Chicago like?
芝加哥概况
Chicago's this wonderful dreamland where there's a bar on every corner and the bridges smell like chocolate.
芝加哥是一个美妙的梦境，每个角落都有一家酒吧，桥梁上弥漫着巧克力的味道。
And then you pretty much have a silence, and the ice in your glass would clink a couple of times.
然后你几乎陷入了沉默，玻璃杯中的冰块会叮当响几声。
And then they'd say the bridges smell like chocolate?
然后他们会说桥梁闻起来像巧克力？
And then I'd describe how wonderful it is that the bridges smelled like chocolate.
然后我会描述桥梁闻起来像巧克力的味道是多么美妙。
And this is something that people in New York have never ever, ever, ever, ever, ever believed.
这是纽约人从来、曾经、曾经、曾经、曾经相信过的事情。
But, if you get up early in the morning, and it's sort of quiet out, and you go to the right bridge.
但是，如果你早上起得很早，外面很安静，你就会去右边的桥。
And it's just that sort of magic twinkling hour where the sun's coming up, and you're in a big city but nobody's around.
这就是那种神奇的闪烁时刻，太阳升起，你在一个大城市，但周围没有人。
Every now and again they smell like brownies.
时不时地，它们闻起来像布朗尼蛋糕。
Yeah, that's actually true.
是的，确实如此。
And the reason why is because there's a chocolate plant on the West side that spews the smell of chocolate.
而之所以如此，是因为西边有一座巧克力工厂，散发着巧克力的香味。
Yeah, the smell of magic.
是的，魔法的味道。
To say the bridge smells like chocolate doesn't convey what actually happens.
说这座桥闻起来像巧克力并不能表达实际发生的情况。
What actually happens is that when you're walking across a bridge and you're dodging cars.
实际发生的情况是，当你走过一座桥时，你正在躲避汽车。
And it's a bridge over a dead river in the middle of a part of town that is industrial and totally unnatural.
这是一座横跨死河的桥梁，位于城镇中心的工业区，完全不自然。
You just sort of walk into this cloud of the sweetest memory you have of cookies being made as a child.
你就像走进了小时候制作饼干的最甜蜜记忆的云彩中一样。
Your sweetest childhood memory.
你最甜蜜的童年记忆。
You can walk into that, and you can walk into it by surprise, in the middle of the day, in the middle of the city.
你可以走进去，你可以惊喜地走进去，在一天的中午，在城市的中心。
Now you know that all this is ending, right?
现在你知道这一切都结束了，对吗？
I know.
我知道。
It's like 1,000 little stabs in the heart.
这就像心脏上被刺了1000个小刺。
It's like a million little stabs in the heart.
这就像心脏上有一百万个小刺。
What happened is this-- somebody complained about the chocolate smell.
事情是这样的——有人抱怨巧克力味。
They complained to the Environmental Protection Agency.
他们向环保局投诉。
And the federal government, ever responsive to even a single complaint from any of its citizens anywhere in the country, leapt into action.
联邦政府对全国任何地方的公民提出的哪怕一丁点投诉都做出了回应，并立即采取了行动。
They sent inspectors to the Blommer Chocolate Company, which has been making chocolate bars and other goodies on Chicago's West Side since 1939.
他们派出检查员前往布洛默巧克力公司 (Blommer Chocolate Company)，该公司自 1939 年以来一直在芝加哥西区生产巧克力棒和其他美食。
Inspectors found that too much cocoa dust was going into the air, more than is legal under federal standards.
检查人员发现，空气中的可可粉含量过多，超过了联邦标准的合法含量。
The plant installed filtering equipment.
该厂安装了过滤设备。
In fact, they say they've been planning to get that equipment in place even before the EPA dropped by.
事实上，他们表示，甚至在美国环保局来访之前，他们就已经计划将这些设备安装到位。
In any case, fewer cocoa particles in the air means less delicious chocolatey aroma.
无论如何，空气中的可可颗粒越少，就意味着美味的巧克力香气越少。
It's kind of curious to think of one small chocolate factory.
想到一家小型巧克力工厂就有点奇怪。
Somebody complained and they went out there and looked.
有人抱怨，他们就出去查看。
And yes, there's a problem, and we're going to fix it.
是的，确实存在问题，我们将解决它。
But yet you have thousands of times where it's happened at the power plants, and nothing's happened.
但在发电厂，这种情况已经发生了数千次，但什么也没发生。
That's Brian Urbaszewski, Director of Environmental Health Programs for the American Lung Association in Chicago.
这是布赖恩·厄巴泽斯基 (Brian Urbaszewski)，芝加哥美国肺脏协会环境健康项目主任。
And as he points out-- it has been widely reported here-- the Illinois Attorney General's office has documented over 7,600 violations, similar to the chocolate company violation, at six coal plants in Illinois in the last six years.
正如他指出的那样（这里已被广泛报道），伊利诺伊州总检察长办公室在过去六年中记录了伊利诺伊州六家燃煤电厂的 7,600 多起违规行为，类似于巧克力公司的违规行为。
And the EPA has never gone after any of those coal plants.
美国环保局从未对任何一家燃煤电厂进行过调查。
OK, let's step back a minute.
好吧，让我们退后一步。
Because chocolate factories are not a major source of this fine particle pollution.
因为巧克力工厂并不是这种细颗粒污染的主要来源。
When you look at power plants, they're responsible for about a quarter of the problem.
当你观察发电厂时，你会发现大约四分之一的问题是由发电厂造成的。
And chocolate-- is chocolate a quarter of the problem as well?
还有巧克力——巧克力也是问题的四分之一吗？
No. It's probably far, far, far less than 1%.
不。可能远远低于 1%。
Oh.
哦。
Now, there's a quote that you gave, where you used an animal metaphor that I've seen quoted widely in a million articles that I just would like you to repeat here for our listeners.
现在，您引用了一句话，其中使用了一个动物隐喻，我已经看到它在数百万篇文章中被广泛引用，我希望您在这里为我们的听众重复一遍。
Oh, I don't know if I can.
哦，我不知道我是否可以。
Actually, if this is the wolves--
事实上，如果这是狼——
Mmm-hmm.
嗯嗯。
Brian Urbaszewski --and the ant thing?
Brian Urbaszewski——还有蚂蚁的事？
I'm afraid so.
恐怕是这样。
Brian Urbaszewski I've actually got San Francisco animal activists after me for that thing, saying that wolves are not dangerous to humans.
Brian Urbaszewski 事实上，旧金山的动物活动人士一直在追捕我，他们说狼对人类没有危险。
That being said-- well, I'll say it if you don't feel like you can.
话虽这么说——好吧，如果你觉得不能的话我会说的。
You said that what the EPA was doing with this chocolate factory and ignoring the coal plants, you said, "it's like crushing an ant when there's a pack of wolves around, then claiming you have saved people from harm."
你说环保局对这家巧克力工厂所做的事情却忽略了燃煤电厂，你说，“这就像在周围有一群狼的时候压死一只蚂蚁，然后声称你已经拯救了人们免遭伤害。”
How about if we say it's like crushing an ant--
如果我们说这就像压死一只蚂蚁怎么样——
Don't be scared of those animal rights people.
不要害怕那些动物权利人士。
No, I'm just trying to think-- I'll use sharks instead.
不，我只是想——我会用鲨鱼来代替。
Nobody likes sharks.
没有人喜欢鲨鱼。
I just feel like my entire relationship to government right now can be summed up by this story.
我只是觉得我现在与政府的整个关系可以用这个故事来概括。
There's all these things that are throwing particles in the air, and the only one I like is the one they're getting rid of.
所有这些东西都会向空气中喷射颗粒，而我唯一喜欢的就是它们正在清除的颗粒。
Yeah, and that's my frustration as well.
是的，这也是我的挫败感。
The federal EPA hasn't been talking to the press about the chocolate factory.
联邦环保局尚未向媒体谈论巧克力工厂的事情。
When I called the Illinois State EPA, the manager of compliance and enforcement for the Bureau of Air, a cheerful public servant named Julie Armitage, informed me that there has been a misunderstanding.
当我给伊利诺伊州环保局打电话时，空气局合规与执行经理、一位名叫朱莉·阿米蒂奇的开朗公务员告诉我，存在误会。
Yes, she said, the coal plants had belched out too many particles 7,600 times.
是的，她说，燃煤电厂已经喷出了太多颗粒物 7,600 次。
But you see, these times was very, very short.
但你看，这些时间非常非常短。
At the least, a momentary spike, at the most, six minutes long.
至少是短暂的峰值，最多是六分钟长。
Each one was a blip, she said.
她说，每一个都是昙花一现。
Automatic monitoring equipment is going 24-hours a day taking readings.
自动监测设备每天 24 小时记录读数。
Add up all the blips per year, and you get 211 blips, per plant, per year.
将每年所有的光点加起来，每株植物每年有 211 个光点。
Meaning that well over 99% of the time, the plants are in compliance with the law.
这意味着工厂在 99% 以上的情况下都遵守法律。
Yes, taken out of context, it appears to be a very bad situation.
是的，断章取义，这似乎是一个非常糟糕的情况。
Put into context, it's virtually a non-issue.
放在上下文中，这实际上不是问题。
And as to the fact that there's still chocolate smell in Chicago, but now it is less chocolate smell.
至于芝加哥仍然有巧克力味，但现在巧克力味少了。
You know, I'm not really in a position.
你知道，我确实没处于一个位置。
Would I prefer to not have had the hullabaloo that broke loose?
我是否宁愿不经历喧嚣呢？
Yes.
是的。
And you don't feel any sort of twinge as an environmental regulator who's here to make our world a better place, as you are, that that could be the upshot of the whole thing?
作为一名环境监管者，你不会感到任何刺痛，因为你是为了让我们的世界变得更美好而存在的，这可能是整个事情的结果？
Yeah.
是的。
You don't feel any sort of twinge if that were to happen?
如果发生这种情况，你不会感到任何刺痛吗？
Well, unfortunately, my job here is to ensure compliance with environmental laws and regulations, and--
嗯，不幸的是，我在这里的工作是确保遵守环境法律法规，而且——
Wherever this sentence is going, this is exactly not the answer we see the people of Illinois want to hear.
无论这句话去向何方，这都不是我们看到的伊利诺伊州人民想听到的答案。
We don't want to hear about laws and regulations.
我们不想听到法律法规。
Well, but you know, they're there for a reason.
好吧，但你知道，他们的存在是有原因的。
And for the most part--
大多数情况下——
Everybody was following the rules, she says.
她说，每个人都遵守规则。
The feds inspected, just like they're supposed to.
联邦调查局进行了检查，就像他们应该做的那样。
Blommers was, in fact, emitting too much chocolate, end of story.
事实上，布洛默斯排放了太多的巧克力，故事结束了。
She said the fact that the coal plants emit more pollution than Blommers, well, it's like when you're driving 68 in a 65 zone, and the cop pulls you over.
她说，燃煤电厂比布洛默斯排放的污染物更多，这就像你在 65 区驾驶 68 号车，警察让你靠边停车。
You broke the law.
你触犯了法律。
It doesn't matter that other people might be doing 70, or 80, or 90, or dare I say 7,600.
其他人可能做了 70、80、90，或者我敢说 7,600，这并不重要。
Well, the program was produced today by Diane Cook and myself, with Alex Blumberg, Jane Feltes, Sarah Koenig, Amy O'Leary and Lisa Pollak.
嗯，今天的节目是由黛安·库克和我本人以及亚历克斯·布伦伯格、简·菲尔特斯、莎拉·科尼格、艾米·奥利里和丽莎·波拉克制作的。
Our senior producer's Julie Snyder.
我们的高级制片人朱莉·斯奈德。
Elizabeth Meister runs our website.
伊丽莎白·梅斯特 (Elizabeth Meister) 负责运营我们的网站。
Production help from Sam Hallgren, Thea Chaloner, Seth Lind and Tommy Andreas.
Sam Hallgren、Thea Chaloner、Seth Lind 和 Tommy Andreas 为制作提供了帮助。
Music help from Jessica Hopper.
杰西卡·霍珀的音乐帮助。
[ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS] Ira Glass Our website where you where can get our free, absolutely free podcast, or listen to our old shows by audio streaming, www.thisamericanlife.org.
[致谢] Ira Glass 在我们的网站 www.thisamericanlife.org 上，您可以获取我们免费、绝对免费的播客，或通过音频流收听我们的旧节目。
Also there this week, details about our live tour.
本周还有有关我们现场巡演的详细信息。
Tickets available in some cities, but they're going fast.
一些城市有售票，但售票速度很快。
We're there this week.
我们这周就在那里。
This American Life is distributed by Public Radio International.
《美国生活》由国际公共广播电台发行。
This American Life is brought to you by Volkswagen, safe happens.
大众汽车为您带来这种美国生活，安全发生。
WBEZ management oversight for our program provided by Torey Malatia, who asked me to tell you that he can kick the ass of anybody in Manhattan, Brooklyn, Queens, the Bronx.
WBEZ 对我们项目的管理监督是由 Torey Malatia 提供的，他让我告诉你，他可以踢曼哈顿、布鲁克林、皇后区、布朗克斯区的任何人。
And this is something that people in New York have never ever, ever, ever, ever, ever believed.
这是纽约人从来、曾经、曾经、曾经、曾经相信过的事情。
I'm Ira Glass.
我是艾拉·格拉斯。
Back next week with more stories of This American Life.
下周我们将带来更多《美国生活》的故事。
This American Life is produced in collaboration with WBEZ Chicago and delivered to stations by PRX The Public Radio Exchange.
《This American Life》与 WBEZ Chicago 合作制作，并由 PRX 公共广播电台传送到各电台。