The Swamp
Narrator: In 1947, an improbable best-seller redefined one of the most remote regions in America––a place long considered impenetrable and dangerous.
旁白：1947 年，一本不可思议的畅销书重新定义了美国最偏远的地区之一——一个长期以来被认为难以穿越和危险的地方。
Author Marjory Stoneman Douglas saw the Everglades differently––as a vital, invaluable ecosystem, not a useless swamp.
作者玛乔丽·斯通曼·道格拉斯 (Marjory Stoneman Douglas) 对大沼泽地有不同的看法——将其视为一个至关重要、无价的生态系统，而不是一片无用的沼泽。
Marjory Stoneman Douglas, VOICE: Nothing anywhere else is like them: their vast glittering openness, wider than the enormous visible round of the horizon, the racing free saltness and sweetness of their massive winds, under the dazzling blue heights of space.
马乔里·斯通曼·道格拉斯（Marjory Stoneman Douglas），配音：没有任何其他地方可以像它们一样：它们广阔的闪闪发光的开放性，比巨大的可见地平线更宽，在令人眼花缭乱的蓝色太空高度下，它们的大风中自由的咸味和甜味。
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They are, they have always been, one of the unique regions of the earth, remote, never wholly known.
它们一直是地球上独特的地区之一，地处偏远，从未完全为人所知。
Narrator: The Everglades had been essential to South Florida’s rise from a remote backwater to an urban and industrial empire.
旁白：大沼泽地对于南佛罗里达州从偏远的落后地区崛起为城市和工业帝国至关重要。
Now, Douglas warned, the vast wetland was dying.
道格拉斯警告说，现在，这片广阔的湿地正在消亡。
Michael Grunwald, Author, The Swamp : The story of the Everglades is the story of man’s quest to drain the swamp, to reclaim, and develop, and improve the Everglades.
迈克尔·格伦沃尔德，《沼泽》作者：大沼泽地的故事是人类寻求排干沼泽、开垦、开发和改善大沼泽地的故事。
Leslie Poole, Historian: We dug canals.
历史学家莱斯利·普尔：我们挖了运河。
We fortified a lake without really understanding what those consequences would be.
我们在一个湖泊上加固了防线，但并没有真正了解这些后果会是什么。
Thomas Van Lent, Civil Engineer: They didn't really give any thought to how the natural system worked.
Thomas Van Lent，土木工程师：他们并没有真正考虑过自然系统是如何运作的。
It resulted in large-scale ecological collapse.
导致了大规模的生态崩溃。
Marjory Stoneman Douglas, VOICE: The endless acres of saw grass, brown as an enormous shadow where rain and lake water had once flowed, rustled dry.
马乔里·斯通曼·道格拉斯（Marjory Stoneman Douglas），配音：一望无际的锯草，棕色的，像一个巨大的阴影，雨水和湖水曾经流过，现在沙沙作响。
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What had been a river of grass and sweet water, that had given meaning and life through centuries, was made, in one chaotic gesture of greed and ignorance and folly, a river of fire.
原本是一条青草和甜水的河流，几个世纪以来赋予了意义和生命，但在贪婪、无知和愚蠢的混乱姿态下，变成了一条火焰之河。
Narrator: In winter 1877, a steamboat plied the waters of the St. Johns River in central Florida.
旁白：1877 年冬天，一艘汽船在佛罗里达州中部的圣约翰斯河上航行。
It was one of many excursion trips for northern tourists looking to trade the cold, crowded streets of industrial cities for the pleasures of a pristine, tropical wilderness.
这是北方游客众多的短途旅行之一，他们希望摆脱工业城市寒冷、拥挤的街道，去享受原始的热带荒野的乐趣。
Aboard the steamer was a wealthy, 33-year-old Philadelphian named Hamilton Disston, on his first visit to Florida.
船上有一位 33 岁的富有的费城人汉密尔顿·迪斯顿 (Hamilton Disston)，这是他第一次访问佛罗里达州。
A restless entrepreneur who soon would inherit his father’s lucrative saw manufactory, Disston had come to fish.
迪斯顿是一位焦躁不安的企业家，很快就继承了父亲利润丰厚的锯子制造厂，他来钓鱼。
But in the wilds of central Florida, he saw a spectacular business opportunity.
但在佛罗里达州中部的荒野中，他看到了一个巨大的商机。
Jack Davis, Historian: Hamilton Disston has this vision of Florida as a place that will make him even more wealthy than what he is.
历史学家杰克·戴维斯（Jack Davis）：汉密尔顿·迪斯顿（Hamilton Disston）对佛罗里达抱有这样的愿景：佛罗里达将让他变得比现在更加富有。
And in the late 19th century, the American heroes of the day are people like Rockefeller, and Carnegie, and Vanderbilt: businessmen.
在 19 世纪末，当时的美国英雄是像洛克菲勒、卡内基和范德比尔特这样的人：商人。
Florida: it’s a paradise for the sportsmen and women, but it’s also an opportunity for the businessman.
佛罗里达州：这里是运动员的天堂，也是商人的机会。
Michael Grunwald, Journalist: This was a way for this heir to an industrial fortune who had always lived in his dad’s shadow to, kind of, step out and create something that was truly his.
迈克尔·格伦沃尔德（Michael Grunwald），记者：对于这位一直生活在父亲阴影下的工业财富继承人来说，这是一种走出去创造真正属于他的东西的方式。
Narrator: Where Disston saw potential, most others saw an insurmountable obstacle: a massive wetland known as the Everglades that covered much of Florida’s southern half, inhibiting settlement and development.
旁白：在迪斯顿看到潜力的地方，大多数其他人看到了一个无法克服的障碍：一片被称为大沼泽地的巨大湿地，覆盖了佛罗里达州南半部的大部分地区，阻碍了定居和发展。
“We want immigration and capital,” Florida’s governor admitted, “come from whatever source it may.” Disston was sure he could deliver both—by turning the Everglades into dry land.
佛罗里达州州长承认：“我们希望移民和资本来自任何来源。”迪斯顿确信他可以实现这两点——将大沼泽地变成旱地。
Michael Grunwald, Journalist : Hamilton Disston had this very simple grand vision.
迈克尔·格伦沃尔德（Michael Grunwald），记者：汉密尔顿·迪斯顿有一个非常简单的宏伟愿景。
He was going to transform this wasteland into the new hub of America.
他要把这片荒地变成美国的新中心。
People saw it as man’s duty to conquer the wilderness.
人们认为征服荒野是人类的责任。
The people who talked about draining the Everglades, and reclaiming the Everglades, and improving the Everglades, they thought they were literally doing God’s work.
那些谈论排干大沼泽地、开垦大沼泽地和改善大沼泽地的人，他们认为他们实际上是在做上帝的工作。
They thought that they were taking this useless swamp and turning it into something productive for mankind.
他们认为他们正在把这片无用的沼泽变成对人类有用的东西。
Narrator: In 1881, Disston cut a deal to purchase 4 million acres of the Everglades for $1 million in cash, enough to pull Florida out of its post-Civil War debt.
旁白：1881 年，迪斯顿达成协议，以 100 万美元现金购买 400 万英亩大沼泽地，足以让佛罗里达州摆脱内战后的债务。
He also promised to drain 12 million acres—one third of the state's landmass—in exchange for half the land his dredges successfully reclaimed.
他还承诺排水 1200 万英亩（该州陆地面积的三分之一），以换取他的挖泥机成功开垦的土地的一半。
One local newspaper predicted the project would give Florida "the most vigorous push forward on the road to progress that it has yet received." When asked why he'd chosen to invest in such a “colossal undertaking,” Disston replied: “The truth is, I wanted a plaything.
当地一家报纸预测，该项目将给佛罗里达州“带来迄今为止最有力的进展”。当被问及为什么选择投资如此“庞大的事业”时，迪斯顿回答道：“事实是，我想要一个玩具。
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I am having a vast amount of fun with it.”
我从中获得了巨大的乐趣。”
Michael Grunwald, Journalist: Hamilton Disston was really the first guy who made a serious effort to drain it.
迈克尔·格伦沃尔德（Michael Grunwald），记者：汉密尔顿·迪斯顿（Hamilton Disston）确实是第一个认真努力将其排干的人。
His drainage scheme was, at the time, considered the most ambitious drainage project in the history of the planet.
他的排水计划当时被认为是地球历史上最雄心勃勃的排水工程。
There had never been this kind of assault on an entire landscape.
从来没有发生过对整片土地进行这样的攻击。
Jack Davis, Historian: Hamilton Disston is not just simply one of Florida’s early, big real estate developers.
历史学家杰克·戴维斯：汉密尔顿·迪斯顿不仅仅是佛罗里达州早期的大型房地产开发商之一。
He’s one of its early boosters.
他是其早期推动者之一。
His vision was to drain this land, turn around and sell it.
他的愿景是抽干这片土地，然后将其出售。
To get the word out, he invited President Chester Arthur down to Florida for a tour of his, if you will, “kingdom,” and took Chester Arthur on a boat ride down the Caloosahatchee River.
为了宣传这一消息，他邀请切斯特·阿瑟总统前往佛罗里达州参观他的（如果你愿意的话）“王国”，并带着切斯特·阿瑟乘船沿着卡卢萨哈奇河顺流而下。
And so he’s generating this excitement about Florida and Florida land.
因此，他对佛罗里达州和佛罗里达州的土地感到兴奋。
Narrator: Soon, pioneers began venturing to the fringes of the Everglades.
旁白：很快，拓荒者开始冒险前往大沼泽地的边缘。
The cow town of Fort Myers, the base for Disston's dredging operation on the west side of the peninsula, tripled in population almost overnight.
迈尔斯堡的牛镇是迪斯顿在半岛西侧疏浚作业的基地，人口几乎在一夜之间增加了两倍。
Thomas Edison, lured by the fishing, bought a winter home there, prophesying that “there is only one Fort Myers, and one day 90 million people are going to find it out.”
托马斯·爱迪生 (Thomas Edison) 受到渔业的诱惑，在那里买了一套过冬的房子，并预言“只有一个迈尔斯堡，有一天会有 9000 万人发现它”。
Disston's dredges, meanwhile, were busily carving drainage canals through the sawgrass marshes.
与此同时，迪斯顿的挖泥机正忙着在锯齿草沼泽中开凿排水渠。
Within two years, water levels in some areas had reached record lows, opening pastures and grazing land for cattle.
两年之内，一些地区的水位达到历史最低水平，牧场和放牧地开始为牛群开放。
Bullish on the prospects for agriculture in the region, Disston established an 1,800-acre sugar plantation—and generated impressive yields.
迪斯顿看好该地区的农业前景，建立了占地 1,800 英亩的甘蔗种植园，并取得了可观的产量。
Paul Sutter, Historian: The tropics was a vitally important environmental region both from a biological standpoint and, increasingly, from an agricultural standpoint.
历史学家保罗·萨特：无论从生物学角度还是从农业角度来看，热带地区都是极其重要的环境区域。
Things like sugar, and citrus, which could be produced in ways that they couldn’t be in most of the rest of the continental United States.
像糖和柑橘这样的东西，其生产方式是美国大陆其他大部分地区无法采用的。
Gail Hollander, Geographer: Disston was trying all these ventures, little towns that he was planning and bringing people in to live, selling land, and sugar as a capitalist.
盖尔·霍兰德（Gail Hollander），地理学家：迪斯顿正在尝试所有这些冒险活动，他正在规划小镇并让人们居住，作为资本家出售土地和糖。
He was there to demonstrate that South Florida, and not just South Florida, but drained land in the Everglades, could be made productive and profitable.
他在那里证明，南佛罗里达州，不仅仅是南佛罗里达州，还有大沼泽地的排水土地，都可以变得富有成效和有利可图。
Narrator: Then, after a handful of relatively dry years, the rains came with a vengeance—and the land Disston had reclaimed began to flood.
旁白：然后，在经历了几年相对干旱的年份之后，暴雨来了，迪斯顿开垦的土地开始洪水泛滥。
A state commission in 1887 declared most of his efforts a failure, dismissing them as the result of a temporary drought, not permanent drainage.
1887 年，一个国家委员会宣布他的大部分努力都失败了，并将其归咎于暂时的干旱，而不是永久性的排水。
Jack Davis, Historian: The great foil in Florida is rain.
历史学家杰克·戴维斯：佛罗里达州最大的陪衬是雨水。
Even though you may think you’ve drained the land, as Hamilton Disston thought he had, one big rainstorm comes along, or a hurricane comes along, and that dry land is suddenly swampland once again.
即使你可能认为你已经排干了土地，正如汉密尔顿·迪斯顿所认为的那样，一场大暴雨来了，或者一场飓风来了，那片干燥的土地突然又变成了沼泽地。
When he saw that things weren’t going so well for him in Florida, Disston mortgaged the Disston Saw Company – this old and prestigious firm in Philadelphia – for $1,000,000 to try to bail himself out.
当迪斯顿看到自己在佛罗里达的日子过得不太顺利时，他以 100 万美元抵押了费城一家古老而享有盛誉的迪斯顿锯木公司，试图摆脱困境。
Narrator: Disston’s financial gambit ultimately came to nothing––sunk by heavy rains and a pair of cold-snaps that ruined his crops.
旁白：迪斯顿的财务策略最终落空——大雨和两次寒流毁掉了他的庄稼。
On April 30, 1896, Hamilton Disston died suddenly at the age of 51.
1896年4月30日，汉密尔顿·迪斯顿突然去世，享年51岁。
Jack Davis, Historian: He’s failed as a self-made businessman, he realizes.
历史学家杰克·戴维斯：他意识到，作为一个白手起家的商人，他是失败的。
And the rumor is, and it may or may not be true, that he was so depressed that he sat in one of the bathtubs in his house in Philadelphia and put a gun to his head and committed suicide.
有传言称，他非常沮丧，以至于坐在费城家中的一个浴缸里，用枪指着自己的头自杀了，这可能是真的，也可能不是。
Narrator: The official cause of death was a heart attack.
旁白：官方的死因是心脏病发作。
But to many, that didn’t matter—the moral was the same: the swamp had claimed another victim.
但对许多人来说，这并不重要——寓意是一样的：沼泽又夺走了另一个受害者。
Marjory Stoneman Douglas, VOICE: This is the greatest concentration of sawgrass in world.
马乔里·斯通曼·道格拉斯（Marjory Stoneman Douglas）（配音）：这是世界上锯草最集中的地方。
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To try to make one’s way among the impenetrable tufts is to be cut off from all air, to be beaten down by the sun and ripped by the grassy saw-toothed edges as one sinks in mud and water.
试图在密不透风的丛丛中开路，就意味着与所有空气隔绝，被阳光击倒，被锯齿状的草丛撕裂，陷入泥浆和水中。
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There is no earthly way to get through …
世间没有办法可以渡过……
these interminable miles.
这些无尽的里程。
Narrator: Before Hamilton Disston’s failed effort to tame them, the Everglades had been mostly unknown to white people.
旁白：在汉密尔顿·迪斯顿驯服大沼泽地失败之前，白人大多对大沼泽地一无所知。
When the place first appeared on a British engineer’s map of Florida in 1823, it was identified only as an “extensive inundated region...generally called THE EVERGLADES," situated in the midst of an area labelled “Unexplored Lands.”
1823 年，当这个地方首次出现在一位英国工程师的佛罗里达地图上时，它仅被识别为“大片被淹没的地区……通常称为大沼泽地”，位于标有“未开发之地”的区域中部。
It wasn't until the late 1830s, when US soldiers attempted to remove a few thousand Seminole Indians from the state, that whites began to grasp the character of Florida's imposing wetland––and categorized it, unflatteringly, as a swamp.
直到 1830 年代末，当美国士兵试图将数千名塞米诺尔印第安人赶出该州时，白人才开始掌握佛罗里达州雄伟湿地的特征，并毫不客气地将其归类为沼泽。
Paul Sutter, Historian: There was a sense that swamps were miasmatic and disease producing as well as being the habitat of noxious reptiles, and insects, and things like that.
历史学家保罗·萨特（Paul Sutter）：有一种感觉认为沼泽是瘴气、会产生疾病的，也是有毒爬行动物、昆虫等的栖息地。
It certainly gave places like the Everglades a bad reputation.
这无疑给大沼泽地这样的地方带来了坏名声。
Narrator: “Campaigning in Florida …
旁白：“佛罗里达州的竞选活动……
was intolerable—excruciating!” a young army surgeon wrote of the experience.
令人难以忍受——令人难以忍受！”一位年轻的军医写下了这段经历。
“It was certainly the most dreary and pandemonium-like region I ever visited; nothing but barren wastes.
“这无疑是我去过的最荒凉、最混乱的地区；除了贫瘠的荒地什么也没有。
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It is in fact a most hideous region to live in, a perfect paradise for Indians, alligators, serpents, frogs and every other kind of loathsome reptile.”
事实上，这是一个最可怕的居住地区，是印第安人、短吻鳄、蛇、青蛙和其他各种令人厌恶的爬行动物的完美天堂。”
One officer bemoaned the overwhelming swarms of mosquitoes in the summer months.
一名警官对夏季的蚊子成群结队感到遗憾。
“This country should be preserved for the Indians,” he concluded.
“这个国家应该为印第安人保留，”他总结道。
“I could not wish them all in a worse place.”
“我不能希望他们都生活在更糟糕的地方。”
The Seminole hadn't chosen to live in the Everglades.
塞米诺尔人并没有选择住在大沼泽地。
They were driven there.
他们被赶到那里。
Pushed out of north Florida by encroaching white settlement, they fiercely resisted all efforts to remove them from the territory.
由于白人定居点的侵占，他们被赶出了佛罗里达州北部，他们强烈抵制所有将他们赶出该领土的努力。
Rather than surrender, they fought a series of bitter wars and moved ever farther south—until finally, in the watery labyrinth of the Everglades, they found a sanctuary: abundant in fish and game; suitable for farming on the islands that dotted the marshland; the forbidding terrain an advantage against intruders.
他们没有投降，而是进行了一系列激烈的战争，并向南移动——直到最后，在大沼泽地的水迷宫中，他们找到了一个避难所：有丰富的鱼类和猎物；适合在遍布沼泽地的岛屿上耕作；险峻的地形有利于抵御入侵者。
Betty Osceola, Local Historian: I was always taught that if our ancestors didn’t have the tenacity and the bravery to do what they did, and to stand their ground, we wouldn’t be here today.
贝蒂·奥西奥拉，当地历史学家：我总是被告知，如果我们的祖先没有坚韧和勇敢去做他们所做的事情并坚持自己的立场，我们今天就不会在这里。
And as an indigenous person, growing up, we’re always taught that we’re related to the environment around us.
作为一个土著人，在成长过程中，我们总是被教导我们与周围的环境息息相关。
We believe that everything was put here for a purpose just like we have our purpose—the plants, the animals, the trees, everything have their purpose in life.
我们相信，一切事物被放置在这里都是有目的的，就像我们有自己的目的一样——植物、动物、树木，一切都有其生命的目的。
Thomas Van Lent, Civil Engineer: Florida is very long, very narrow, and surrounded on three sides by water, very warm water.
Thomas Van Lent，土木工程师：佛罗里达州非常长、非常窄，三面都被水包围，水非常温暖。
So, that means that this place is defined, not by the four seasons that you typically find in the temperate zone, but by the rhythms of the tropics, the wet and dry season.
因此，这意味着这个地方的定义不是由温带地区通常的四个季节决定，而是由热带、湿季和干季的节奏决定。
It’s warm, very humid, and there’s water everywhere.
天气温暖、潮湿，到处都是水。
Narrator: The water’s journey to the Everglades began just south of today’s Orlando.
旁白：水流向大沼泽地的旅程始于今天的奥兰多以南。
Fed by rainfall, it meandered through the Kissimmee Basin to the huge, shallow Lake Okeechobee.
在降雨的滋润下，它蜿蜒穿过基西米盆地，到达巨大而浅的奥基乔比湖。
In the rainy season, the water would overtop the lake’s southern bank, then slowly spread across the peninsula––some of it seeping down to replenish underground aquifers, the rest wending its way through dense mangrove forests before finally exiting into Florida Bay and the Gulf of Mexico.
在雨季，水会漫过湖南岸，然后慢慢地蔓延到整个半岛，其中一些渗入地下补充地下蓄水层，其余的则穿过茂密的红树林，最后流入佛罗里达湾和墨西哥湾。
Thomas Van Lent, Civil Engineer: The Everglades is really a water management system that’s perfectly tuned to the conditions in the subtropics.
土木工程师 Thomas Van Lent：大沼泽地实际上是一个完全适合亚热带条件的水管理系统。
If it rained a lot, the wetlands would just expand.
如果下很多雨，湿地就会扩大。
And if it stopped raining, and there was a drought, the wetlands would contract.
如果雨停了，出现干旱，湿地就会萎缩。
But it’s extremely flat.
但它非常平坦。
So water just doesn’t run off.
所以水不会流失。
It looked like it sat there, but actually it didn’t.
看起来好像它坐在那里，但实际上并没有。
It flowed, just very, very slowly.
它流淌着，只是非常非常缓慢。
Narrator: Called "Pa-Hay-Okee"—or grassy water—by the Seminole, the Everglades was but one component of a vast, interconnected ecosystem that included Biscayne Bay off the coast of what would one day be Miami, the coral reefs of the Florida Keys, and a patchwork of pinelands and blackwater bogs known as the Big Cypress Swamp.
旁白：塞米诺尔人将大沼泽地称为“Pa-Hay-Okee”（或草水），它只是一个巨大的、相互关联的生态系统的组成部分，该生态系统包括日后迈阿密海岸附近的比斯坎湾、佛罗里达群岛的珊瑚礁，以及被称为大柏树沼泽的松林和黑水沼泽拼凑而成的地方。
All together, the greater Everglades ecosystem covered 18,000 square miles—and water was its lifeblood.
大沼泽地生态系统总共覆盖了 18,000 平方英里，而水是它的命脉。
But when Hamilton Disston—and those who would follow in his footsteps—tried to drain it, none of that was well understood.
但当汉密尔顿·迪斯顿（Hamilton Disston）以及那些追随他脚步的人试图耗尽它时，一切都没有得到很好的理解。
Paul Sutter, Historian: At the turn of the 20th century, there is a growing sense that engineers and industrial era machinery gave Americans the capacity to truly master the natural world.
历史学家保罗·萨特：在 20 世纪之交，人们越来越意识到工程师和工业时代的机械赋予了美国人真正掌握自然世界的能力。
It's an era of arrogance or hubris.
这是一个傲慢或傲慢的时代。
And I think that is an important transition point in the history of the Everglades.
我认为这是大沼泽地历史上的一个重要转折点。
Douglas Brinkley, Historian: Every generation in America has new technological conceits.
历史学家道格拉斯·布林克利：美国的每一代人都有新的技术理念。
The idea that this new generation—the Panama Canal generation—that they were gonna be able to do massive drainage down in the Everglades, that it could be done, that the technology was there, all that was missing was money and willpower and some political finesse.
新一代——巴拿马运河一代——的想法是，他们将能够在大沼泽地进行大规模排水，这是可以做到的，技术已经存在，所缺少的只是金钱、意志力和一些政治技巧。
Narrator: On January 3rd, 1905, the state of Florida swore in its 19th governor: a burly, rough-hewn native son with the unlikely name of Napoleon Bonaparte Broward.
旁白：1905 年 1 月 3 日，佛罗里达州第 19 任州长宣誓就职：他是一位身材魁梧、粗犷的土生土长的儿子，他的名字不太可能是拿破仑·波拿巴·布劳沃德。
Orphaned as a teenager, Broward had made his own way in the world, earning a reputation as a straight-talker and a fair-dealer with a knack for getting things done.
布劳沃德十几岁时就成了孤儿，他在这个世界上开辟了自己的道路，赢得了“直言不讳”和“公平交易者”的声誉，并拥有办事的诀窍。
Now, as his inauguration speech made plain, Governor Broward intended to do something about the Everglades.
现在，正如布劳沃德州长在就职演说中明确表示的那样，他打算对大沼泽地采取一些行动。
“The state owns several million acres of unreclaimed lands as fertile as any in the world,” he declared.
“该州拥有数百万英亩未开垦的土地，与世界上任何土地一样肥沃，”他宣称。
“They should be drained and made fit for cultivation.”
“它们应该被排干并适合种植。”
Jack Davis, Historian: Napoleon Bonaparte Broward was a force.
历史学家杰克·戴维斯：拿破仑·波拿巴·布劳沃德是一股力量。
He wanted to do something, he did it.
他想做点什么，他就做到了。
He was smart, he was savvy, he had ambitions.
他很聪明，他有悟性，他有野心。
And he campaigned on the promise that he would drain millions of acres in the Everglades.
他在竞选时承诺将排干大沼泽地数百万英亩的土地。
Michael Grunwald, Journailst: Broward told Floridians that water was the common enemy of the people of Florida, and he was gonna be the man who got rid of it.
迈克尔·格伦沃尔德（Michael Grunwald），《Journalst》：布劳沃德告诉佛罗里达人，水是佛罗里达人民的共同敌人，他将成为摆脱水的人。
Narrator: Known for his slogan “Water Will Run Down Hill!,” Broward was convinced that draining the Everglades was a simple proposition.
旁白：布劳沃德以其口号“水会流下山！”而闻名，他坚信排干大沼泽地的水是一个简单的提议。
Not only could it be accomplished for just a dollar an acre, he proclaimed, “I can do the whole business in five years at the outside."
他不仅每英亩只需一美元就能完成这项工作，而且还宣称：“我可以在外面五年内完成整个业务。”
Paul Sutter, Historian: This was a vast part of his state that he wanted to see developed, that he wanted to bring on to the tax rolls, that he wanted to see people gainfully using to advance the economic development of his state.
历史学家保罗·萨特（Paul Sutter）：这是他所在州的很大一部分，他希望看到它得到发展，他希望将其纳入税收清单，他希望看到人们有收益地利用它来促进该州的经济发展。
And I think there was a real sense that the person that could bring this intractable landscape into its economy would be a kind of hero.
我认为，能够将这种棘手的情况带入其经济的人将是一种英雄，这是一种真正的感觉。
Narrator: By draining the Everglades, Broward vowed, he would make Florida America's new heartland.
旁白：布劳沃德发誓，通过排干大沼泽地的水，他将使佛罗里达州成为美国的新中心地带。
Jack Davis, Historian: Napoleon Bonaparte Broward was a Populist politician, meaning that what he would do would be for the people.
历史学家杰克·戴维斯：拿破仑·波拿巴·布劳沃德是一位民粹主义政治家，这意味着他所做的一切都是为了人民。
He envisioned the Everglades becoming a place in which the ambitious individual, the independent yeoman farmer, the Jeffersonian farmer could make a living for himself and his family.
他设想大沼泽地成为一个雄心勃勃的个人、独立的自耕农、杰斐逊式的农民可以为自己和家人谋生的地方。
Narrator: Florida had been granted statehood in 1845.
旁白：佛罗里达州于 1845 年获得建州资格。
But when Broward took office, more than fifty years later, it was still considered the frontier.
但五十多年后，当布劳沃德上任时，它仍然被认为是边境。
The second largest state east of the Mississippi, Florida was also among the least settled, with a population of roughly half a million.
佛罗里达州是密西西比河以东的第二大州，也是人口最少的州之一，人口约为 50 万。
Eliot Kleinberg, Journalist: This was the wilderness.
Eliot Kleinberg，记者：这是荒野。
When they were talking about making Florida a state there was one member of Congress who said, “Why on Earth would we want this place?
当他们谈论让佛罗里达州成为一个州时，一位国会议员说：“我们到底为什么要这个地方？
It is a Godforsaken swamp full of alligators and mosquitoes and nobody would want to emigrate there, even from hell.”
这是一片被上帝遗弃的沼泽，充满了鳄鱼和蚊子，没有人愿意移民到那里，即使是来自地狱。”
Douglas Brinkley, Historian : Florida was like the last Wild West.
历史学家道格拉斯·布林克利（Douglas Brinkley）：佛罗里达就像最后的狂野西部。
Nobody was gonna move to south Florida.
没有人会搬到佛罗里达州南部。
If you’re a politician from down there, nobody’s coming to live in a swamp.
如果你是那里的政治家，没有人会住在沼泽里。
So you had to have schemes to drain the swamp.
所以你必须制定排干沼泽的计划。
Narrator: Broward meant to finish what Hamilton Disston had started.
旁白：布劳沃德打算完成汉密尔顿·迪斯顿开始的事业。
With 80 miles of canals already dredged, and working from a recommendation made by Disston's own chief engineer, Broward ultimately planned a huge and costly canal that would lower the level of Lake Okeechobee by siphoning water east to the St. Lucie River and out to the Atlantic.
80 英里的运河已经疏浚完毕，根据迪斯顿自己的总工程师的建议，布劳沃德最终规划了一条耗资巨大的巨大运河，通过将水向东虹吸到圣露西河并流入大西洋，降低奥基乔比湖的水位。
But the Governor wanted to quickly show proof of concept, and he decided to start digging much farther south, on the New River, near the tiny hamlet of Fort Lauderdale.
但州长希望迅速证明概念，他决定开始在更南边的新河上挖掘，靠近劳德代尔堡的小村庄。
On July 4th, 1906, Broward commemorated the nation's independence by launching the first of two specially constructed dredges—then immediately wired back to the state capitol: "The first dredge is digging mud!"
1906 年 7 月 4 日，布劳沃德为纪念国家独立，下水了两艘特制挖泥船中的第一艘，然后立即回电至州议会大厦：“第一艘挖泥船正在挖泥！”
The fanfare was premature—the line through the sawgrass hadn't even been surveyed.
这种大肆宣传还为时过早——穿过锯齿草的那条线甚至还没有被勘察过。
But Broward was a man on a mission.
但布劳沃德是一个肩负使命的人。
Michael Grunwald, Journalist: He was not just the Governor.
迈克尔·格伦沃尔德（Michael Grunwald），记者：他不仅仅是州长。
He was the chief engineer.
他是总工程师。
He wrote the specifications for the dredges.
他编写了挖泥船的规格。
He went and inspected them as they were being built every month.
他每个月都会在建造过程中去检查它们。
At one point, he wrote a letter to the manufacturer, asking why he had thickened a bulkhead by 1/16 th of an inch.
有一次，他给制造商写了一封信，询问为什么将舱壁加厚 1/16 英寸。
Gail Hollander, Geographer: Broward was very hot on drainage.
地理学家盖尔·霍兰德（Gail Hollander）：布劳沃德对排水非常热衷。
And this was a hot topic around the United States at the time.
这在当时是美国各地的热门话题。
People were draining the prairie potholes of the Midwest.
人们正在排干中西部草原坑洼的水。
They were developing ways to dry out the river basins.
他们正在研究使河流流域干涸的方法。
Michael Grunwald, Journalist: It’s really hard to overstate the excitement that Broward’s drainage project was creating, not just in Florida but around the country.
迈克尔·格伦沃尔德（Michael Grunwald），记者：布劳沃德的排水工程不仅在佛罗里达州而且在全国各地都引起了人们的兴奋，这一点很难被夸大。
Teddy Roosevelt was very excited about reclamation.
泰迪·罗斯福对填海造地感到非常兴奋。
He saw it as a top priority for his administration.
他认为这是他的政府的首要任务。
And his Agriculture Department was especially excited about the drainage work that was going on in Florida, which they saw as potentially the greatest act of reclamation in American history.
他的农业部对佛罗里达州正在进行的排水工程感到特别兴奋，他们认为这可能是美国历史上最伟大的填海工程。
Narrator: The new canals around Fort Lauderdale made an instant impression.
旁白：劳德代尔堡周围的新运河给人留下了深刻的印象。
Swampland bought for 25-cents an acre now produced harvests of $600 an acre for tomatoes, $1,000 for lettuce, $1,500 for celery.
以每英亩 25 美分的价格购买的沼泽地现在每英亩的西红柿产量为 600 美元，生菜为 1,000 美元，芹菜为 1,500 美元。
“This great Everglades district will not only develop into a most beautiful and prosperous country," predicted a satisfied farmer, "but will prove itself the Eden of America.”
“这个伟大的大沼泽地地区不仅会发展成为一个最美丽、最繁荣的国家，”一位满意的农民预测道，“而且还将证明自己是美国的伊甸园。”
Enthusiasm for Broward's project was far from universal.
人们对布劳沃德项目的热情远非普遍。
Critics attacked the drainage effort as “a wildcat scheme” that would succeed only in draining the pockets of taxpayers.
批评者批评排水工程是“野猫计划”，只会耗尽纳税人的口袋。
Others worried the canals would lead to overdrainage, which would then cause fires—or underdrainage that would cause more floods.
其他人担心运河会导致排水过度，从而引发火灾，或者排水不足会导致更多洪水。
“Some men believe the Everglades should be drained,” mocked one newspaper, “while others urge the annexation of the moon.”
一份报纸嘲笑道：“有些人认为应该排干大沼泽地的水，而另一些人则主张吞并月球。”
Even the chief of the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s new drainage division expressed reservations, suggesting the Everglades enterprise would cost as much as 50 times more than Broward estimated.
就连美国农业部新排水部门的负责人也表示了保留，他表示大沼泽地项目的成本将比布劳沃德估计的高出 50 倍。
Jack Davis, Historian: Broward is under fire by many people who say his plan is flawed, that what Broward was proposing just simply wouldn’t work.
历史学家杰克·戴维斯：布劳沃德受到许多人的批评，他们说他的计划有缺陷，布劳沃德的提议根本行不通。
The USDA sends an engineer, by the name of James O.
美国农业部派出了一名工程师，名叫 James O.
Wright, to South Florida to do a study of the Broward Drainage Project.
赖特前往南佛罗里达州对布劳沃德排水工程进行研究。
And, apparently, Wright and Broward became chummy.
显然，赖特和布劳沃德变得很亲密。
Michael Grunwald, Journalist: Broward was very eager to get a, kind of, seal of good housekeeping from the federal government.
迈克尔·格伦沃尔德（Michael Grunwald），记者：布劳沃德非常渴望从联邦政府那里获得良好内务管理的印章。
And James Wright was more than happy to give Broward the kind of answer he wanted as long as there were also private opportunities for him to have a little graft on the side.
詹姆斯·赖特非常乐意给布劳沃德他想要的那种答案，只要他也有私人机会做一点兼职。
Ultimately, James Wright put together a report that was much more Broward friendly coming to the conclusion that the Everglades drainage was inevitable, and it could be done for about $1 an acre, which was what Broward wanted to hear.
最终，詹姆斯·赖特 (James Wright) 整理了一份对布劳沃德更加友好的报告，得出的结论是大沼泽地排水是不可避免的，而且可以以每英亩 1 美元左右的价格完成，这正是布劳沃德希望听到的。
Narrator: By the time Wright finished his study, in 1908, Broward was nearing the end of his term, in the midst of a run for the U.
旁白：1908 年赖特完成学业时，布劳沃德的任期已接近尾声，正在竞选美国大学校长。
S.
S。
Senate, and badly in need of a boost for both his drainage project and his reputation.
参议院，他的排水工程和声誉都急需提升。
Over the previous two years, his dredges had dug only about 12 miles of canals and reclaimed fewer than 12,000 acres—hardly a dent in the massive wetland.
在过去的两年里，他的挖泥机只挖了大约 12 英里的运河，开垦了不到 12,000 英亩的土地——这对大片湿地来说几乎没有造成任何影响。
Worse still, Broward had failed to pass a drainage tax to support the effort, and was now woefully short on cash.
更糟糕的是，布劳沃德未能通过排水税来支持这一努力，现在现金严重短缺。
But the Governor had angles to work.
但总督有工作的角度。
In December 1908, just before he left office, Broward negotiated a million-dollar sale of Everglades marshland to a western land speculator, and rescued his drainage project from financial ruin.
1908 年 12 月，就在他卸任之前，布劳沃德通过谈判将大沼泽地沼泽地以百万美元的价格出售给了西部土地投机者，并挽救了他的排水工程免遭财务破产。
Not quite three months later, excerpts from Wright's optimistic report somehow made their way to Florida officials—despite the fact that Wright's supervisors at the USDA had found the report lacking.
不到三个月后，赖特乐观报告的摘录以某种方式送达了佛罗里达州官员——尽管赖特在美国农业部的主管发现该报告缺乏内容。
State lawmakers were delighted by what they read.
州立法者对他们所读到的内容感到很高兴。
“The drainage of the Glades,” they declared, “is absolutely feasible.”
“林间空地的排水，”他们宣称，“绝对可行。”
Jack Davis, Historian: The state of Florida is flaunting it as if this is the gospel word about Everglades drainage.
历史学家杰克·戴维斯：佛罗里达州正在炫耀它，好像这是关于大沼泽地排水系统的福音。
And used this flawed report to generate this excitement nationwide about buying real estate in Florida, to bring flocks of people down to buy this reclaimed land that the state was responsible for creating.
并利用这份有缺陷的报告在全国范围内激起了人们对在佛罗里达州购买房地产的热情，吸引成群结队的人前来购买该州负责创造的这片开垦土地。
Narrator: Thanks, in part, to Wright’s misleading report, the state of Florida managed to pass a five-cents-an-acre drainage tax, then hired Wright as Florida’s chief engineer at twice his federal salary.
旁白：部分归功于赖特的误导性报告，佛罗里达州成功通过了每英亩五美分的排水税，然后以两倍于联邦工资的价格聘请赖特担任佛罗里达州的总工程师。
Ex-Governor Broward’s plan for the Everglades was now at the top of the state’s agenda.
前州长布劳沃德的大沼泽地计划现在已成为该州议程的首要任务。
Michael Grunwald, Journalist: After Hamilton Disston tried and failed to drain the Everglades, Broward came along, and he didn’t really succeed in draining the swamp either, but he made it absolutely clear that the swamp was going to be drained.
迈克尔·格伦沃尔德，记者：在汉密尔顿·迪斯顿尝试排干大沼泽地的水但失败后，布劳沃德出现了，他也没有真正成功地排干沼泽地的水，但他绝对明确表示沼泽地将会被排干。
Narrator: The rush got underway in March 1911.
旁白：1911 年 3 月，抢购潮开始了。
In New York, Washington and Pittsburgh, in Michigan, Iowa, Kansas and South Dakota, Americans boarded trains by the thousands and made a beeline for Florida.
在纽约、华盛顿、匹兹堡、密歇根州、爱荷华州、堪萨斯州和南达科他州，成千上万的美国人登上火车直奔佛罗里达州。
Upon arrival in Fort Lauderdale, the early comers quickly filled the small town's few hotels.
抵达劳德代尔堡后，早到者很快就挤满了小镇上为数不多的几家酒店。
The rest rented rooms in private homes or scrambled for a patch of ground in a hastily-pitched tent city.
其余的人则在私人住宅中租用房间，或者在匆忙搭建的帐篷城中争夺一块土地。
They were school teachers and clerks, bricklayers and farmers, all of them eager to claim their very own parcel of drained Everglades muckland—in what advertisements had described as one of "the greatest land propositions ever offered to the investing public."
他们是学校教师、职员、瓦工和农民，所有人都渴望拥有自己那块排干的大沼泽地泥土——广告将其描述为“有史以来向投资大众提供的最伟大的土地提案之一”。
Eliot Klienberg, Journalist: These people saw this golden opportunity.
Eliot Klienberg，记者：这些人看到了这个千载难逢的机会。
They were told this muck was this rich, black, wet soil, and it was like you could throw a quarter down and a tree would grow out of it.
他们被告知这些淤泥是肥沃、黑色、潮湿的土壤，就像你可以扔下四分之一，里面就会长出一棵树。
Narrator: The event had been organized by Dicky Bolles, the land speculator who had purchased a half-million acres in the Everglades from Governor Broward.
旁白：这次活动是由土地投机商迪基·博尔斯组织的，他从布劳沃德州长手中购买了大沼泽地的 50 万英亩土地。
Now, Bolles was looking to unload it at a profit.
现在，博尔斯希望将其抛售以获取利润。
Jack Davis, Historian: Dicky Bolles calls it the Progresso Land Lottery.
历史学家杰克·戴维斯：迪基·博尔斯将其称为“进步土地彩票”。
For $240, you could buy into this lottery with the chance of winning either a large parcel of land or perhaps a small parcel of land.
只需 240 美元，您就可以购买这张彩票，有机会赢得一大块土地或一小块土地。
And what he doesn’t tell people is that much of this land that is part of this lottery is still underwater.
他没有告诉人们的是，这片彩票的大部分土地仍然在水下。
Narrator: Peddling the promise that the whole of the Everglades would be drained in a year, Bolles and his so-called “swamp boomers” managed to sell 20,000 parcels of muckland in a matter of months—most of it sight unseen.
旁白：博尔斯和他所谓的“沼泽潮一代”兜售整个大沼泽地将在一年内被排干的承诺，并在几个月内成功出售了 20,000 块淤泥地——其中大部分是看不见的。
Michael Grunwald, Journalist: Dicky Bolles sent brochures around the country with fake quotes from the Department of Agriculture, announcing that the land was already drained, that this project couldn’t fail, with sort of true quotes from the state, announcing that the will of the state was behind it.
迈克尔·格伦沃尔德（Michael Grunwald），记者：迪基·博尔斯（Dicky Bolles）向全国各地发送小册子，其中附有农业部的虚假报价，宣布土地已经排干，该项目不会失败，并附有来自国家的真实报价，宣布其背后有国家意志。
Narrator: The new Everglades land owners—locals called them “land suckers”—soon discovered the reality behind the sales pitch.
旁白：大沼泽地的新土地所有者——当地人称他们为“土地吸盘者”——很快就发现了销售宣传背后的现实。
An Illinois teacher searching for her new farm discovered “water, water everywhere.” “I have bought land by the acre, and I have bought land by the foot,” said one Iowa purchaser, “but, my God, I have never bought land by the gallon.”
伊利诺伊州的一位老师在寻找她的新农场时发现“水，到处都是水”。爱荷华州的一位买家表示：“我按英亩购买过土地，也按英尺购买过土地，但是，天哪，我从来没有按加仑购买过土地。”
When the news got out, the rush to settle the Everglades abruptly slowed to a crawl.
消息传出后，定居大沼泽地的热潮突然变得缓慢起来。
Some disgruntled investors sued.
一些心怀不满的投资者提起诉讼。
Eventually, Bolles was indicted for mail fraud, and his scheme denounced on the floor of the U.S. Congress as “one of the meanest swindles ever…conducted in this country.”
最终，博尔斯因邮件欺诈被起诉，他的计划在美国国会上被谴责为“这个国家有史以来最卑鄙的诈骗之一”。
Michael Grunwald, Journalist: People were talking about it as the biggest swindle in the history of American real estate, and this was when Florida swampland became a national punchline.
迈克尔·格伦沃尔德（Michael Grunwald），记者：人们谈论这是美国房地产史上最大的骗局，就在那时，佛罗里达沼泽地成为了全国的笑点。
Douglas Brinkley, Historian: There was no doubt that people thought the swamp could be drained.
历史学家道格拉斯·布林克利：毫无疑问，人们认为沼泽可以排干。
It was possible.
这是可能的。
We could probably do it, but it always smelled of a scheme in some ways.
我们也许可以做到，但在某些方面总有一种计划的味道。
It always seemed like a boondoggle.
这似乎总是毫无意义。
Thomas Van Lent, Civil Engineer: What they really didn’t understand is just the magnitude, the sheer volume of water they were dealing with.
土木工程师 Thomas Van Lent：他们真正不明白的是他们所处理的水量有多大。
The size of the landscape was immense.
景观的规模是巨大的。
Narrator: “The Everglades may be drained some day,” observed one South Florida resident, “but that day has not arrived.”
旁白：“大沼泽地可能有一天会被排干，”南佛罗里达州的一位居民观察到，“但那一天还没有到来。”
Marjory Stoneman Douglas, VOICE: This is the country of the birds.
马乔里·斯通曼·道格拉斯（Marjory Stoneman Douglas），配音：这是鸟类的国度。
The man-o’-war birds from the Keys float and tumble over it in their effortless flight.
来自群岛的军舰鸟在其上轻松飞行，在上面漂浮和翻滚。
Thousands of sandpipers and sanderlings rise in clouds …
数以千计的鹬和三鹬在云端升起……
In a slow roar of aroused wings, they float high up and sail and turn in great concentric circles, white against cloud dazzle.
翅膀被唤醒，发出缓慢的轰鸣声，它们飞向高空，航行并绕着巨大的同心圆旋转，在耀眼的云彩映衬下，它们呈白色。
Thomas Van Lent, Civil Engineer: The Everglades is unique because it sits at the crossroads between North America, the Caribbean, Central America, and it's this big place where all of those areas are kind of jumbled together in a big mosaic.
Thomas Van Lent，土木工程师：大沼泽地很独特，因为它位于北美、加勒比海、中美洲的十字路口，而且在这个大地方，所有这些区域都像一个大马赛克一样混杂在一起。
That makes it amazingly biodiverse.
这使得它具有惊人的生物多样性。
It has a profusion of plants and animals found nowhere else on this continent, and they're all located together in the Everglades.
它拥有在这片大陆上其他地方找不到的丰富的植物和动物，它们都集中在大沼泽地中。
Gail Hollander, Geographer: South Florida attracted a lot of attention from botanists and explorers, people who were interested in the South Florida landscape as it was, not in terms of what it could produce.
地理学家盖尔·霍兰德（Gail Hollander）：南佛罗里达州吸引了植物学家和探险家的大量关注，他们对南佛罗里达州的景观感兴趣，而不是对它能产生什么感兴趣。
There were always voices questioning the route that was being taken in the development of the Everglades.
总是有人质疑大沼泽地的开发路线。
Narrator: From the moment he settled in South Florida, in 1903, naturalist Charles Torrey Simpson had been fascinated by the Everglades.
旁白：自然学家查尔斯·托里·辛普森 (Charles Torrey Simpson) 从 1903 年定居南佛罗里达州那一刻起，就对大沼泽地着迷。
By his own account, he’d “loved Florida on sight”—and he'd chosen to spend his retirement a few miles north of Miami in a place where the natural wonders of the Everglades could be observed.
据他自己说，他“一眼就爱上了佛罗里达”，并选择在迈阿密以北几英里的地方度过退休时光，那里可以观赏大沼泽地的自然奇观。
Paul Sutter, Historian: What people like Simpson and others found in the Everglades as they came to study and appreciate them was a vastness and a solitude and a sense of smallness in comparison to the forces of nature that they found spiritually nourishing.
历史学家保罗·萨特：辛普森等人在研究和欣赏大沼泽地时发现，与他们精神上滋养的自然力量相比，大沼泽地是一片广阔、孤独和渺小。
Narrator: Already, the wildness that so inspired Simpson was being spoiled by the hand of man.
旁白：曾经激励辛普森的野性已经被人类的双手破坏了。
A railroad built along Florida's east coast had increased Miami’s population five-fold in just five years, and laid waste to acres of pine forests and hardwood hammocks.
沿着佛罗里达州东海岸修建的一条铁路在短短五年内使迈阿密的人口增加了五倍，并毁坏了数英亩的松树林和硬木吊床。
“The charred ruin," Simpson lamented, "glares in the sun as a silent and pathetic protest against useless waste and folly.”
“烧焦的废墟，”辛普森感叹道，“在阳光下闪闪发光，这是对无用的浪费和愚蠢行为的无声而可悲的抗议。”
Like famed preservationist John Muir, Simpson believed nature should be left alone—and in 1912, he began churning out a steady stream of books and articles meant as a kind of wake-up call to South Florida.
与著名的保护主义者约翰·缪尔 (John Muir) 一样，辛普森也认为不应干扰自然——1912 年，他开始源源不断地创作书籍和文章，旨在给南佛罗里达州敲响警钟。
Paul Sutter, Historian: People like Simpson begin to interpret the landscape to south Floridians in ways that becomes particularly powerful.
保罗·萨特（Paul Sutter），历史学家：像辛普森这样的人开始以一种特别有力的方式向南佛罗里达人解释风景。
Floridians needed to come to recognize what they were destroying and to recognize that there was great virtue in protecting at least some of it.
佛罗里达人需要认识到他们正在摧毁什么，并认识到至少保护其中一部分是有巨大美德的。
That without protecting some of it, this Florida idyll—this notion of the good life in this benign climate and environment—was gonna become a kind of hollow promise.
如果不保护其中的一部分，佛罗里达的田园风光——在这种温和的气候和环境中过上美好生活的概念——将成为一种空洞的承诺。
Narrator: In Simpson's view, perhaps no spot in the Everglades was more urgently in need of protection than Paradise Key.
旁白：在辛普森看来，也许大沼泽地里没有什么地方比天堂岛更需要保护了。
An island of trees situated in the middle of the sawgrass marsh, 45 miles south of Miami, the place was lush and green, home to the country's largest stand of towering royal palms and a riot of rare orchids.
这座树岛位于迈阿密以南 45 英里的锯齿草沼泽中央，这里郁郁葱葱，绿意盎然，拥有全国最大的高耸皇家棕榈林和大量稀有兰花。
As Simpson once put it: “My eyes have never rested on any spot on earth as beautiful as Paradise Key.”
正如辛普森曾经说过的：“我的目光从未停留在地球上任何像天堂岛这样美丽的地方。”
Now it was under threat from land developers, orchid and palm poachers and a road that was being laid straight through the island.
现在，它受到土地开发商、兰花和棕榈偷猎者以及一条直接穿过该岛的道路的威胁。
Simpson and many of his colleagues rose to the defense of Paradise Key, but it was a group of Florida women who ultimately determined its fate.
辛普森和他的许多同事奋起捍卫天堂岛，但最终决定天堂岛命运的是一群佛罗里达妇女。
Leslie Poole, Historian: The move to preserve Paradise Key didn’t really gain traction until May Mann Jennings became the President of the Florida Federation of Women’s Clubs in 1914, and May was a person who got things done.
莱斯利·普尔 (Leslie Poole)，历史学家：直到 1914 年梅·曼·詹宁斯 (May Mann Jennings) 成为佛罗里达州妇女俱乐部联合会主席后，保护天堂岛的举措才真正获得关注，而梅就是一个能把事情做好的人。
Her father was a State Legislator, her husband had been Governor of Florida, and if anybody knew everybody in the state of Florida, it was May Jennings.
她的父亲是一名州议员，她的丈夫曾是佛罗里达州州长，如果有人认识佛罗里达州的每个人，那就是梅·詹宁斯。
She decided that saving Paradise Key was gonna be her number one priority and that changed everything for Florida conservation.
她决定拯救天堂岛将成为她的首要任务，这改变了佛罗里达州保护的一切。
Narrator: Jennings mobilized her federation—9,000 strong—to lobby the legislature to designate Paradise Key as Florida’s first state park.
旁白：詹宁斯动员了她的 9,000 名联合会成员，游说立法机构将天堂岛指定为佛罗里达州的第一个州立公园。
It proved a tough sell.
事实证明，这是一次艰难的推销。
Convincing lawmakers that the so-called "wasteland" of the Everglades held anything worth preserving in its natural state took patient persuasion.
要让立法者相信大沼泽地所谓的“荒地”拥有任何值得在其自然状态下保存的东西，需要耐心的说服。
But Jennings and her federation persisted—and, eventually, prevailed.
但詹宁斯和她的联盟坚持了下来，并最终取得了胜利。
Leslie Poole, Historian: Women didn’t have the vote until 1920, but they had the connections that gave them power.
历史学家莱斯利·普尔：女性直到 1920 年才拥有投票权，但她们拥有赋予她们权力的关系。
They could join together.
他们可以联合起来。
They could sign petitions.
他们可以签署请愿书。
They could wander the corridors of power and demand change, and they could do that because they had the numbers, and they had the influence.
他们可以在权力走廊中徘徊并要求变革，他们之所以能做到这一点是因为他们拥有人数，并且拥有影响力。
Narrator: On November 23rd, 1916, nearly a thousand people attended the opening ceremony of Royal Palm State Park, which Jennings dedicated “to the people of Florida and their children forever.” Only about a tenth of one percent of the Everglades ecosystem had been saved in the bargain.
旁白：1916 年 11 月 23 日，近千人参加了皇家棕榈州立公园的开幕仪式，詹宁斯将这座公园“永远献给佛罗里达州人民及其子孙”。在这场讨价还价中，大沼泽地生态系统中只有大约十分之一得到了拯救。
But amid the incessant calls to drain and develop, Jennings and her fellow conservationists judged the park a good start.
但在不断呼吁排水和开发的呼声中，詹宁斯和她的环保主义者同事认为该公园是一个良好的开端。
Leslie Poole, Historian: It was momentous.
历史学家莱斯利·普尔（Leslie Poole）：这非常重要。
What they had created was the first State Park in Florida, and it was the first State Park in the United States that had been created by women’s clubs.
他们创建的是佛罗里达州第一个州立公园，也是美国第一个由女子俱乐部创建的州立公园。
So they set an example nationally for how to preserve land, how to lobby to make it happen, and how to realize this dream that others hadn’t been able to accomplish.
因此，他们在全国范围内树立了如何保护土地、如何游说以实现这一目标以及如何实现其他人无法实现的梦想的榜样。
Narrator: Throughout the 19-teens, earth was being moved all over the Everglades.
旁白：整个 19 世纪，大沼泽地各地的土都在被移动。
Despite the scandal over the Wright report and the ensuing land swindle, enthusiasm for draining the Everglades remained high—and in 1913, a state commission had laid out a plan to get the job done.
尽管存在赖特报告丑闻以及随之而来的土地诈骗，但人们对排干大沼泽地的热情仍然很高——1913 年，一个州委员会制定了一项完成这项工作的计划。
The top priority was a familiar one: putting an end to overflows from Lake Okeechobee— which the commission called “the great liquid heart of Florida.”
首要任务是一个熟悉的任务：阻止奥基乔比湖泛滥——该委员会称该湖为“佛罗里达州伟大的液体中心”。
The recommended fix: a massive canal east to the St. Lucie River and the Atlantic—the very canal that had figured in the drainage schemes of Hamilton Disston and Napoleon Bonaparte Broward.
建议的修复方案是：在圣露西河和大西洋以东修建一条大型运河——汉密尔顿·迪斯顿和拿破仑·波拿巴·布劳沃德的排水计划中也曾提到过这条运河。
“Without that canal,” the commission’s chairman advised, “the efforts now being expended are a sheer waste of money.”
“如果没有这条运河，”该委员会主席建议道，“现在所付出的努力纯粹是浪费金钱。”
In addition, the last two of the four main canals running diagonally from Lake Okeechobee would be completed, and dozens of new canals built.
此外，从奥基乔比湖斜向延伸的四条主要运河中的最后两条运河也将竣工，并修建数十条新运河。
In total, the project was slated to cost nearly $25 million—twelve times what the state had spent on drainage so far.
该项目预计总共耗资近 2500 万美元，是该州迄今为止排水支出的十二倍。
Meanwhile, in 1915, construction began on the Tamiami Trail, a 275-mile road that would connect southern Florida's east and west coasts, and usher in the development of both.
与此同时，1915 年，塔迈阿密步道 (Tamiami Trail) 开始建设，这是一条全长 275 英里的道路，将连接佛罗里达州南部的东海岸和西海岸，并带动了两者的发展。
Michael Grunwald, Journalist: The Tamiami Trail was a road from Tampa to Miami, and it was a road through the Everglades.
记者 Michael Grunwald：塔迈阿密步道是一条从坦帕到迈阿密的道路，也是一条穿过大沼泽地的道路。
The building of the Trail suggested that people were starting to see south Florida as the type of place where it was worth investing in infrastructure.
这条步道的建设表明，人们开始将佛罗里达州南部视为值得投资基础设施的地方。
Narrator: To some, the dredges that crisscrossed the wetlands, and the work crews struggling to pave over the muck, were signs of progress.
旁白：对一些人来说，在湿地中纵横交错的挖泥机，以及奋力铺平淤泥的工作人员，都是进步的标志。
To others, they were a menacing intrusion.
对于其他人来说，它们是一种威胁性的入侵。
Andrew Frank, Historian: The Tamiami Trail cuts right through Indian country.
历史学家安德鲁·弗兰克：塔迈阿密小道正好穿过印度乡村。
This is a really destructive form of colonialism that Seminoles, and native people in general, saw as really aggressive and hostile to their way of life, and it really was a destructive force.
这是一种真正具有破坏性的殖民主义形式，塞米诺尔人和一般原住民认为，对他们的生活方式具有侵略性和敌意，这确实是一种破坏性力量。
Betty Osceola, Local Historian: Before Florida was settled—before you had roads, and canals, and other communities—when it was mainly just our people living here off the land, we were mainly a hunter-gatherer society.
当地历史学家贝蒂·奥西奥拉（Betty Osceola）：在佛罗里达州有人定居之前——在有道路、运河和其他社区之前——当时主要只有我们的人民生活在远离陆地的地方，我们主要是一个狩猎采集社会。
We followed where the game went, and it was basically a subsistence type of living.
我们就跟着游戏走，这基本上就是一种自给自足的生活方式。
Now there was a road across the state, and it kind of diced up the Everglades.
现在有一条横穿该州的公路，它把大沼泽地切成了块。
Narrator: With fish and game disappearing from the Everglades, and many of their island planting grounds destroyed, the Seminole did their best to adapt—holding fast to their identity even as the environment that had sustained it was systematically dismantled.
旁白：随着大沼泽地鱼类和猎物的消失，许多岛屿种植园被毁，塞米诺尔人尽力适应——即使维持他们生存的环境被系统性破坏，他们仍坚守自己的身份。
Betty Osceola, Local Historian: Instead of building your camp where it was the best place to grow crops or to hunt for the game in that area, it was, “Okay, let’s build our camp close to the highway because we know tourists are gonna travel that highway so we can open up a little shop and start selling our souvenirs.
当地历史学家贝蒂·奥西奥拉（Betty Osceola）：与其把营地建在最适合种植农作物或狩猎的地方，不如说，“好吧，让我们把营地建在靠近高速公路的地方，因为我们知道游客会沿着那条高速公路行驶，这样我们就可以开一家小商店，开始出售我们的纪念品。
They started making baskets and dolls to sell to the tourists.
他们开始制作篮子和娃娃来卖给游客。
Andrew Frank, Historian: Sometimes they would do little performances of what you would call alligator wrestling.
安德鲁·弗兰克，历史学家：有时他们会进行一些所谓的鳄鱼摔跤表演。
Tourists ate it up.
游客们把它吃光了。
They know what they imagine the Everglades to be, and this fit what they thought the Everglades would be.
他们知道他们想象中的大沼泽地是什么样子，这也符合他们对大沼泽地的想象。
Betty Osceola, Local Historian: Before the tourist attractions, the men learned how to trap the alligator.
当地历史学家贝蒂·奥西奥拉：在前往旅游景点之前，人们学习了如何捕捉鳄鱼。
They used those techniques to put on a show that the non-Indians were willing to pay to see.
他们利用这些技术上演了一场非印第安人愿意付费观看的表演。
It’s gone from a skill for hunting to survive, and now, it’s a sport.
它已经从一种狩猎生存的技能，变成了一项运动。
Andrew Frank, Historian: White settlers start creating these Indian camps, these pay-per-view villages, if you will.
安德鲁·弗兰克，历史学家：白人定居者开始建造这些印第安人营地，这些按次付费的村庄，如果你愿意的话。
And the people who are there do remarkably stereotypical Indian things, not necessarily Seminole things, but Indian things.
那里的人做的是非常典型的印第安人的事情，不一定是塞米诺尔人的事情，而是印第安人的事情。
Betty Osceola, Local Historian: They actually created their village inside of it, so the tourists could go in and see the Seminole and Miccosukee people actually living in a village like on display.
当地历史学家贝蒂·奥西奥拉：他们实际上在里面创建了自己的村庄，这样游客就可以进去看到塞米诺尔人和米科苏基人实际上生活在一个村庄里，就像展示的那样。
People paid a fee, almost like going to the zoo.
人们付费，就像去动物园一样。
My mom and some of her relatives actually lived inside the tourist attraction.
我妈妈和她的一些亲戚实际上住在旅游景点内。
Our ancestors fought for us to be who we are.
我们的祖先为我们而奋斗，让我们成为现在的自己。
And even with all the development of the lands, our people stood their ground.
即使土地得到了极大的发展，我们的人民仍然坚持自己的立场。
Narrator: The Tamiami Trail did more than upend the Seminole’s way of life.
旁白：塔迈阿密小道不仅颠覆了塞米诺尔人的生活方式。
It also dramatically altered the landscape of the Everglades, unleashing a torrent of unintended consequences— consequences that one day would imperil the very settlement the road had encouraged.
它还极大地改变了大沼泽地的地貌，引发了一系列意想不到的后果——有一天，这些后果将危及道路所鼓励的定居点。
Michael Grunwald, Journalist: What people did not understand at the time was that building a road that bisected the sheet flow of the Everglades was an environmental disaster.
迈克尔·格伦沃尔德（Michael Grunwald），记者：当时人们不明白的是，修建一条将大沼泽地的平流一分为二的道路是一场环境灾难。
It was essentially a dam in the middle of the Everglades.
它本质上是大沼泽地中部的一座水坝。
Betty Osceola, Local Historian: The best way it could be for the environment was how Creator originally intended it to be, but the white man came and thought he knew better.
当地历史学家贝蒂·奥西奥拉（Betty Osceola）：对环境最好的方式就是造物主最初的意图，但白人来了，认为他知道得更好。
COCOANUTS (movie clip): Florida, folks!
椰子（电影剪辑）：佛罗里达州，伙计们！
Sunshine, sunshine!
阳光，阳光！
Perpetual sunshine all the year around!
一年四季阳光灿烂！
Let's get the auction started before we get a tornado.
让我们在龙卷风到来之前开始拍卖吧。
…
……
Eight hundred wonderful residences will be built right here.
这里将建造八百套精美住宅。
Why, they're as good as up.
为什么，他们和起来一样好。
Better.
更好。
You can have any kind of a home you want to.
你可以拥有任何你想要的家。
You can even get stucco -- Oh, how you can get stuck-o!
你甚至可以得到灰泥——哦，你怎么会被卡住呢！
Michael Grunwald, Journalist: In the first half of the 1920’s south Florida just went nuts.
Michael Grunwald，记者：20 年代上半叶，南佛罗里达简直疯了。
You had this just insane real estate boom where it felt like every Model-T that was rolling off the assembly line was being driven straight down to south Florida.
房地产业疯狂繁荣，感觉就像每辆下线的 Model-T 都被直接开往佛罗里达州南部。
Narrator: They came in droves—and not merely to vacation.
旁白：他们成群结队地来——不仅仅是为了度假。
Wealthy Americans with marquee names—Jack Dempsey, Will Rogers, Henry Ford—spent their winters idling in the tropical sunshine, while middle-class transplants sought their fortunes or settled in for retirement.
杰克·登普西、威尔·罗杰斯、亨利·福特等名声显赫的美国富人在热带阳光下无所事事地过冬，而中产阶级移民则寻求财富或定居退休。
So sudden was the flood of newcomers that the supply of houses was soon exhausted, forcing some to live in tents or houseboats while they waited for their Florida dream to become a reality.
新移民的涌入如此突然，以至于房屋的供应很快就耗尽了，迫使一些人住在帐篷或船屋里，等待他们的佛罗里达梦想成为现实。
Andrew Frank, Historian: The image of the sun and sand and beaches is what they used to lure the tourists in and what they’d lure retirees in.
历史学家安德鲁·弗兰克：阳光、沙滩和海滩的形象是他们用来吸引游客和退休人员的东西。
This is the “Come to Florida where retirement’s going to be easy.” And the idea of starting anew and building a dream home was remarkably alluring for many.
这就是“来到佛罗里达，退休生活会很容易。”重新开始并建造梦想家园的想法对许多人来说非常有吸引力。
Maggy Hurchalla, Local Historian: Out west of Miami, literally in the Everglades, they would put in sidewalks and street lights.
当地历史学家玛吉·胡查拉 (Maggy Hurchalla)：在迈阿密西部，实际上是在大沼泽地，他们修建了人行道和路灯。
Not that anybody was ever going to be able to live there during the summer rainy season, but they could say in a northern ad in a newspaper, “Sidewalks, yes.
并不是说任何人都能在夏季雨季住在那里，但他们可以在报纸上的北方广告中说：“人行道，是的。
Streetlights, yes.”
路灯，是的。”
Narrator: The epicenter of the boom was Miami—which, for a time, boasted the highest per capita consumption of concrete in the world.
旁白：繁荣的中心是迈阿密——一度被誉为世界上人均混凝土消耗量最高的城市。
By 1925, construction was underway on 30 new high-rises and nearly a thousand subdivisions—and real estate prices were soaring.
到 1925 年，已有 30 座新的高层建筑和近千个住宅小区开工建设，房地产价格飞涨。
The influx of cash found its way into pockets all over town.
大量现金涌入全城的口袋。
Moonlighting as a publicist for a master-planned suburb called Coral Gables, Marjory Stoneman Douglas, a columnist for the Miami Herald , managed to pull in an extra hundred dollars a week.
《迈阿密先驱报》的专栏作家玛乔丽·斯通曼·道格拉斯（Marjory Stoneman Douglas）兼职为一个名为科勒尔盖布尔斯（Coral Gables）的总体规划郊区担任公关人员，每周能额外赚到一百美元。
A longtime New Englander and a graduate of Wellesley, the illustrious women's college outside of Boston, Douglas had decamped to Florida in 1915, at the age of 25, reeling from a disastrous marriage and her mother's recent death.
道格拉斯是一位长期居住在新英格兰的人，毕业于波士顿郊外著名的韦尔斯利女子学院，1915 年，25 岁的道格拉斯因一场灾难性的婚姻和母亲最近的去世而逃往佛罗里达州。
Leslie Poole, Historian: When Douglas arrived in Miami, she was really a refugee from life.
历史学家莱斯利·普尔：当道格拉斯到达迈阿密时，她实际上是一个生活中的难民。
She was looking for a brand-new start.
她正在寻找一个全新的开始。
Jack Davis, Historian: And she gets off the train, and the first thing that strikes her is, as she described it, the white light of the tropics.
历史学家杰克·戴维斯：她下了火车，正如她所描述的，首先映入她眼帘的是热带地区的白光。
And it immediately lifted her spirits, and she was attached to that light the rest of her life.
这立刻让她精神振奋，她的余生都与那盏灯结下了不解之缘。
Narrator: Miami was then a remote outpost of some 15,000 people—“no more than a glorified railroad terminal,” Douglas said.
旁白：迈阿密当时是一个约有 15,000 人的偏远前哨基地——“只不过是一个光鲜亮丽的铁路终点站，”道格拉斯说。
But her father was the editor of the Miami Herald, and she’d come to town to work.
但她的父亲是《迈阿密先驱报》的编辑，她来到城里工作。
Jack Davis, Historian: Marjory Stoneman Douglas realized early on that she was this independent spirit.
杰克·戴维斯，历史学家：玛乔丽·斯通曼·道格拉斯很早就意识到她有这种独立精神。
Her chief ambition in life was to be a successful writer.
她一生的主要抱负是成为一名成功的作家。
Narrator: A stint as a staff reporter gave way to one as the editor of the society page, and then to her own column.
旁白：她先是担任了一名记者，后来又担任了社会版的编辑，然后又担任了自己的专栏。
Along the way, she covered everything that mattered in Miami—from public schools to prison reform to conservation.
一路上，她报道了迈阿密所有重要的事情——从公立学校到监狱改革再到保护。
As she later put it: “The paper was the perfect vantage point from which to view my new world.”
正如她后来所说：“这篇论文是观察我的新世界的完美视角。”
Jack Davis: Douglas is writing for the Miami Herald at the time of the land boom, and she finds it very discouraging because she sees it for what it is, and that’s a get-rich-quick scheme that’s eventually going to go bust.
杰克·戴维斯：道格拉斯在土地繁荣时期为《迈阿密先驱报》撰稿，她发现这非常令人沮丧，因为她看到了它的本质，这是一个快速致富的计划，最终会破产。
But along with that is this tremendous uncontrolled growth, and it’s slapdash.
但随之而来的是这种巨大的、不受控制的增长，而且是草率的。
And she sees a major flaw in that.
她看到了其中的一个重大缺陷。
And so she’s using her column, calling for Miami, and all of Florida, for that matter, to be smart about urban growth.
因此，她在专栏中呼吁迈阿密和整个佛罗里达州明智地对待城市发展。
Narrator: Douglas was no naturalist—she'd been in Miami for five years before she made a day-trip to the Everglades.
旁白：道格拉斯不是博物学家——她在迈阿密呆了五年才去大沼泽地一日游。
But the place had left a deep impression.
但这个地方却给人留下了深刻的印象。
Marjory Stoneman Douglas, VOICE: Nowhere else in the United States can a real tropic jungle be seen.
马乔里·斯通曼·道格拉斯（Marjory Stoneman Douglas），声音：在美国其他地方看不到真正的热带丛林。
And to wantonly destroy it for building purposes, and with a mistaken idea of development, is to wipe out one of the greatest factors of our regional life.
为了建设而肆意破坏，带着错误的发展理念，就是抹杀我们地区生活的最重要因素之一。
Jack Davis, Historian: She sees this tropical surrounding being altered to look more like northern environments.
历史学家杰克·戴维斯：她看到这个热带环境正在被改变，看起来更像北方环境。
She’s seeing water turn dirty.
她看到水变脏了。
She’s seeing wetland areas being drained away.
她看到湿地地区正在被排干。
And she’s seeing the wildlife disappearing in some places.
她看到一些地方的野生动物正在消失。
Narrator: Douglas urged caution going forward.
旁白：道格拉斯敦促谨慎行事。
But like many Americans who had come to Florida to stay, she didn't question the path to the future.
但就像许多来到佛罗里达定居的美国人一样，她并没有质疑未来的道路。
Marjory Stoneman Douglas, VOICE: The wealth of south Florida, but even more important, the meaning and significance of south Florida lies in the black muck of the Everglades and the inevitable development of this country to be the great tropic agricultural center of the world.
马乔里·斯通曼·道格拉斯（Marjory Stoneman Douglas），声音：南佛罗里达州的财富，但更重要的是，南佛罗里达州的意义和重要性在于大沼泽地的黑色淤泥以及这个国家成为世界伟大热带农业中心的必然发展。
Jack Davis, Historian: Douglas believed that you could have farming out in the Everglades, but she didn’t wanna see the entire Everglades drained.
杰克·戴维斯，历史学家：道格拉斯相信你可以在大沼泽地种地，但她不想看到整个大沼泽地被排干。
There was a belief in those days that you could drain your Everglades and have them, too.
那时人们相信，你可以耗尽你的大沼泽地并拥有它们。
Douglas Brinkley, Historian: There’s an inbred tension between industrialization, urban living, and the natural world.
历史学家道格拉斯·布林克利：工业化、城市生活和自然世界之间存在着一种与生俱来的紧张关系。
In Florida, they are really trying to do both.
在佛罗里达州，他们确实在努力做到这两点。
Narrator: In 1923, a 41-year-old politician from New York made his first visit to the Everglades.
旁白：1923年，一位来自纽约的41岁政治家首次访问大沼泽地。
He'd been recently stricken with polio, and though three terms as president of the United States lay in his future, Franklin Delano Roosevelt was convinced his political career was over.
富兰克林·德拉诺·罗斯福最近患上了小儿麻痹症，尽管他的未来还剩三届美国总统，但富兰克林·德拉诺·罗斯福坚信他的政治生涯已经结束。
“I am going to Florida," Roosevelt told his doctor," to let nature take its course.”
“我要去佛罗里达，”罗斯福告诉他的医生，“顺其自然。”
Douglas Brinkley, Historian: Franklin Roosevelt was a very sick man in 1923.
历史学家道格拉斯·布林克利 (Douglas Brinkley)：1923 年，富兰克林·罗斯福病得很重。
And he believed that by going to Florida, he would feel better.
他相信去佛罗里达会让他感觉好一些。
And he started coming back again and again.
他开始一次又一次地回来。
He was deeply enchanted with Florida.
他对佛罗里达深深着迷。
He loved it.
他喜欢它。
Narrator: Roosevelt passed his days birding, fishing and swimming.
旁白：罗斯福一生以观鸟、钓鱼和游泳为生。
“I know it is doing the legs good,” he wrote his mother, “the muscles are better than ever before.”
“我知道这对双腿有好处，”他给母亲写信说，“肌肉比以前更好了。”
Douglas Brinkley, Historian: He goes to Florida to get lost in nature because he believed that nature was like a cathedral.
历史学家道格拉斯·布林克利（Douglas Brinkley）：他去佛罗里达是为了迷失在大自然中，因为他相信大自然就像一座大教堂。
It was sacred.
这是神圣的。
Narrator: Many of Roosevelt's happiest hours had been spent in the wilderness.
旁白：罗斯福许多最快乐的时光都是在荒野中度过的。
But never before had he encountered nature as it was in the Everglades.
但他以前从未像在大沼泽地那样接触过大自然。
“Went fishing in the inlet,” read a notation in the daily log he kept.
“去海湾钓鱼，”他保留的每日日志中写道。
“Caught one sea trout.
“钓到一条海鳟鱼。
…
……
identified 33 different species of birds, including a very large flock of black skimmers.
识别出了 33 种不同的鸟类，其中包括一大群黑色撇嘴鸟。
Convinced that such an abundance of life should be protected, Roosevelt strongly advocated the establishment of a bird sanctuary across the southern end of Florida.
罗斯福深信如此丰富的生命应该受到保护，因此强烈主张在佛罗里达州南端建立一个鸟类保护区。
“To do so now is practicable,” he told a friend.
“现在这样做是可行的，”他告诉一位朋友。
“To wait another 10 years would be to lose the whole project.”
“再等10年就会失去整个项目。”
Douglas Brinkley, Historian: By the Twenties, FDR has already bought into the idea of the Everglades being worth preserving because he’d been there.
历史学家道格拉斯·布林克利：到了二十年代，罗斯福已经相信大沼泽地值得保护，因为他曾经去过那里。
He knew firsthand what it was, and he starts talking about the Everglades to friends.
他第一手知道那是什么，并开始向朋友谈论大沼泽地。
They were determined to try to create a large park in south Florida.
他们决心尝试在佛罗里达州南部建立一个大型公园。
Narrator: Since 1872, when Yellowstone had been made the world's first national park, the idea of preserving large swaths of nature for future generations had been steadily gaining traction.
旁白：自 1872 年黄石公园成为世界上第一个国家公园以来，为子孙后代保护大片自然环境的想法一直在稳步发展。
By 1916, so many wilderness areas had been set aside across the country that the National Park Service was established to oversee them.
到 1916 年，全国各地已划出许多荒野地区，因此成立了国家公园管理局来监管它们。
Now, Roosevelt and his conservationist friends hoped to create such a park in the Everglades.
现在，罗斯福和他的环保主义者朋友希望在大沼泽地建立这样一个公园。
As with the bird sanctuary, there was no time to waste.
就像鸟类保护区一样，没有时间可以浪费。
"If we wait till these lands show commercial values," urged one of Roosevelt's allies, "we'll never get our park."
罗斯福的一位盟友敦促说：“如果我们等到这些土地显示出商业价值，我们就永远不会得到我们的公园。”
Maggy Hurchalla, Local Historian: Sometimes we have too much water.
当地历史学家 Maggy Hurchalla：有时我们的水太多了。
Sometimes we have too little water.
有时我们的水太少了。
We never, or very rarely, have an average amount of water.
我们从来没有或很少有平均水量。
Narrator: Water was a fact of life for anyone living in south Florida.
旁白：水对于生活在佛罗里达州南部的每个人来说都是生活中的一个事实。
But likely no one spent as much time thinking about water as Fred Cotten Elliot, the Tallahassee-born civil engineer tasked with managing the state's drainage project.
但可能没有人像弗雷德·科顿·埃利奥特 (Fred Cotten Elliot) 那样花那么多时间思考水问题，他是塔拉哈西出生的土木工程师，负责管理该州的排水工程。
Elliot exuded an unflappable confidence, honed by the rigorous discipline of military school.
艾略特散发着镇定自若的自信，这是军校严格纪律磨练出来的。
But by 1924, he'd been on the job 11 years, and controlling the water was every bit the challenge it had been on day one.
但到 1924 年，他已经从事这项工作 11 年了，而控制水源就是他第一天就面临的挑战。
After more than 11 million dollars spent and 427 miles of canals dug, the Everglades remained overwhelmingly a wetland.
在花费了超过 1100 万美元并挖了 427 英里的运河之后，大沼泽地仍然是一片湿地。
Paul Sutter, Historian: There were pockets of the Everglades that drainage did open up to agriculture.
历史学家保罗·萨特（Paul Sutter）：大沼泽地的某些地区确实因排水而开辟了农业用途。
But I think for every effort engineers and drainage experts made to drain the Everglades, they created new problems.
但我认为，工程师和排水专家为大沼泽地排水所做的一切努力，都带来了新的问题。
Narrator: The diagonal canals that ran south from Lake Okeechobee to the Atlantic had been completed; but they were often too clogged with silt and water hyacinths to be truly effective.
旁白：从奥基乔比湖向南延伸至大西洋的对角运河已经完工；但它们常常被淤泥和水葫芦堵塞，无法真正发挥作用。
More problematic still: the St. Lucie Canal—the key to controlling overflows from Lake Okeechobee—was as yet unfinished.
问题还更大：圣露西运河——控制奥基乔比湖溢流的关键——尚未完工。
Newly-drained land south of the lake had been flooded more than once, and complaints from tax-paying farmers there had grown too numerous for Elliot to ignore.
湖以南新排干的土地不止一次被洪水淹没，那里纳税农民的抱怨越来越多，埃利奥特无法忽视。
The farmers had been settling south of the lake for a decade—etching their optimism onto the map of Florida with new towns named Chosen and Hope City.
农民们在湖以南定居了十年，将他们的乐观情绪铭刻在佛罗里达州的地图上，新城镇被命名为“选择城”和“希望城”。
Eliot Kleinberg, Journalist: Early on it was small mom-and-pop farmers growing winter vegetables.
Eliot Kleinberg，记者：早期，都是小型家庭农民种植冬季蔬菜。
These winter vegetables basically supplied the entire northeast.
这些冬季蔬菜基本供应整个东北地区。
If you had a head of lettuce in New Jersey in the 1920’s, it came from around Lake Okeechobee.
如果 1920 年代新泽西州有一颗生菜，它就来自奥基乔比湖周围。
Narrator: The work was backbreaking.
旁白：工作很辛苦。
It could take as much as several months to clear the sawgrass from a single acre before a farmer could plant a crop.
农民可能需要几个月的时间才能清除一英亩土地上的锯草，然后才能种植农作物。
And then, that crop might easily wind up under water.
然后，农作物可能很容易被淹没在水下。
Michael Grunwald, Journalist: The Everglades had the right amount of water, but it didn’t have it at the right times, and when it came, it came in buckets.
迈克尔·格伦沃尔德（Michael Grunwald），记者：大沼泽地有适量的水，但它没有在正确的时间获得，当它来的时候，它是装在桶里的。
Even with those canals, it was still impossible to get it off the land fast enough to keep it from drowning people’s crops.
即使有了这些运河，仍然不可能以足够快的速度将其从土地上清除以防止其淹没人们的庄稼。
Eliot Kleinberg, Journalist: They had heavy rains that could wash out an entire crop, and if you’re trying to grow beans and every time there’s a heavy rain there’s two inches of water flooding your beans, you’ve got a problem.
Eliot Kleinberg，记者：大雨可能会冲毁整个农作物，如果你想种植豆类，而每次大雨时，就有两英寸深的水淹没你的豆子，你就会遇到问题。
Narrator: Fred Elliot's solution was to build an earthen dike along Lake Okeechobee's southern rim—a fix the Palm Beach Post hailed as "absolute insurance against any future overflow."
旁白：弗雷德·埃利奥特的解决方案是沿着奥基乔比湖的南缘修建一条土堤——《棕榈滩邮报》称赞这一解决方案是“防止未来发生任何溢流的绝对保险”。
Eliot Kleinberg, Journalist: They said, “We need to protect these farmers,” so they put up this dike to protect them from the lake.
Eliot Kleinberg，记者：他们说，“我们需要保护这些农民”，所以他们修建了这座堤坝来保护他们免受湖水的影响。
And when you say “dike” you’re talking about basically a six-foot wall of muck.
当你说“堤坝”时，你基本上指的是一堵六英尺高的淤泥墙。
Narrator: The dike, as it took shape, did not inspire confidence.
旁白：堤坝刚成形时并没有激发人们的信心。
One section proved so prone to crumbling, it had be rebuilt five times.
事实证明，其中一个部分非常容易倒塌，因此被重建了五次。
To Howard Sharp, the editor of the Everglades News and the self-appointed advocate for the farmers in the upper Glades , the dike was almost beside the point.
对于《大沼泽地新闻》的编辑、自封的上空地农民的倡导者霍华德·夏普来说，堤坝几乎无关紧要。
Lake Okeechobee could be stopped from menacing the region's agriculture, Sharp insisted, if only Fred Elliot managed the water better.
夏普坚持认为，只要弗雷德·埃利奥特更好地管理水源，就可以阻止奥基乔比湖对该地区农业的威胁。
Michael Grunwald, Journalist: The decisions he made were wildly unpopular because everybody wanted water in different places.
迈克尔·格伦沃尔德（Michael Grunwald），记者：他做出的决定非常不受欢迎，因为每个人都想要在不同的地方获得水。
The farmers in the upper Everglades, they mostly wanted the lake to be kept very low, except when it was a drought situation.
大沼泽地上游的农民大多希望湖水保持在很低的水平，除非是干旱的时候。
While steamboat operators, and fishermen, and people living in the coastal communities had very different ideas of how much water they wanted pushed through these canals.
尽管汽船经营者、渔民以及居住在沿海社区的人们对于他们想要通过这些运河输送多少水有着截然不同的想法。
Narrator: Elliot dismissed the complaints as petty and partisan.
旁白：埃利奥特认为这些抱怨微不足道且带有党派之争。
“It seems to be everybody for himself and the devil for all,” he groused, “and everybody knows more about the drainage work than the [Drainage] Board.”
“这似乎是每个人都为自己而魔鬼，”他抱怨道，“每个人都比[排水]委员会更了解排水工作。”
Michael Grunwald, Journalist: Elliot was a pretty arrogant guy and the fact that everybody was yelling at him, he took his proof of a job well done.
迈克尔·格伦沃尔德（Michael Grunwald），记者：埃利奥特是一个非常傲慢的人，事实上每个人都对他大喊大叫，他证明了自己的工作做得很好。
But Howard Sharp saw him as, essentially, this out of touch pencil pusher who is trying to manage the Everglades from an office in Tallahassee and screamed at him, particularly when Elliot wanted to keep the water levels high.
但霍华德·夏普认为他本质上是一个脱离实际的铅笔推手，试图在塔拉哈西的一间办公室里管理大沼泽地，并对他尖叫，特别是当埃利奥特想要保持高水位时。
Narrator: In the summer of 1926, heavy rains raised Lake Okeechobee to the edge of its dike.
旁白：1926 年夏天，大雨使奥基乔比湖水位上升到堤坝边缘。
“The lake is truly at a level so high," Sharp warned, "as to make a perilous situation in the event of a storm." Elliot countered that lowering the levels to protect the upper Glades would only flood the coastal communities and waste precious water needed for irrigation that winter.
夏普警告说：“该湖的水位确实如此之高，一旦发生暴风雨，就会造成危险的情况。”埃利奥特反驳说，降低水位以保护上空地只会淹没沿海社区，并浪费那个冬天灌溉所需的宝贵水。
Michael Grunwald, Journalist: When the water levels were starting to get pretty scary, Sharp was trashing the chief engineer every day in his newspaper saying, “You have got to lower the lake or there’s gonna be a disaster.”
记者迈克尔·格伦沃尔德：当水位开始变得非常可怕时，夏普每天都会在报纸上辱骂总工程师，说：“你必须降低湖水，否则就会发生灾难。”
Maggy Hurchalla, Local Historian: They dug enough canals to drain the whole of south Florida when it rained 50 inches of rain.
当地历史学家玛吉·胡查拉 (Maggy Hurchalla)：当降雨量达到 50 英寸时，他们挖了足够多的运河来排水整个佛罗里达州南部。
They had not dealt with what water does in a rainy year and a great storm.
他们没有处理过雨年和大风暴中水的作用。
Narrator: Not long after midnight on September 18th, 1926, Miami was struck by the most powerful hurricane in its history.
旁白：1926 年 9 月 18 日午夜过后不久，迈阿密遭受了历史上最强大的飓风袭击。
140-mile per hour winds and 15-foot storm surges uprooted trees, tossed yachts into the streets, and swept roofs all the way to the Everglades.
时速 140 英里的大风和 15 英尺高的风暴潮将树木连根拔起，将游艇抛到街道上，并席卷屋顶直至大沼泽地。
Maggy Hurchalla, Local Historian: It was a very large storm.
当地历史学家 Maggy Hurchalla：这是一场非常大的风暴。
It hit dead on with the right-hand shoulder coming across Miami Beach.
它的右肩正好穿过迈阿密海滩。
Andrew Frank, Historian: When the hurricane cuts through Miami, it’s almost as if like the Titanic has sunk.
历史学家安德鲁·弗兰克：当飓风横扫迈阿密时，几乎就像泰坦尼克号沉没了一样。
We have built this remarkable city that is incredibly modern, and the storm comes through and, now, most of Miami is not inhabitable.
我们建造了这座非凡的现代化城市，但暴风雨过后，迈阿密的大部分地区都不再适合居住。
Narrator: One estimate put the total property damage at a hundred million dollars.
旁白：据估计，总财产损失达一亿美元。
Miami Herald columnist Marjory Stoneman Douglas was visiting Massachusetts when the storm hit.
风暴袭来时，《迈阿密先驱报》专栏作家玛乔丽·斯通曼·道格拉斯正在马萨诸塞州访问。
She returned to find her house still standing but strewn with seaweed and crabs.
她回来时发现她的房子仍然矗立着，但布满了海藻和螃蟹。
Miami's real estate boom, she later noted dryly, had been “blown away."
她后来干巴巴地说，迈阿密的房地产繁荣已经“被吹走了”。
Maggy Hurchalla, Local Historian: The boom busted because it was a bubble.
当地历史学家玛吉·胡查拉 (Maggy Hurchalla)：繁荣之所以破灭，是因为它只是一个泡沫。
It was a Ponzi scheme.
这是一个庞氏骗局。
The boom busted, literally and practically, because the building materials that were coming into the harbor in Miami couldn’t get in after the 1926 hurricane.
无论是字面上还是实际上，繁荣都被打破了，因为在 1926 年飓风过后，进入迈阿密港口的建筑材料无法进入。
Narrator: The destruction in Miami was soon overshadowed by the loss of life in Moore Haven, one of the farming communities south of Lake Okeechobee.
旁白：迈阿密的破坏很快就被摩尔港的生命损失所掩盖，摩尔港是奥基乔比湖以南的农业社区之一。
Eliot Kleinberg, Journalist: The 1926 storm, after it came through and smashed Miami, it then continued into the interior, and it came up along the south shore of Lake Okeechobee.
Eliot Kleinberg，记者：1926 年的风暴席卷迈阿密并摧毁之后，继续进入内陆地区，沿着奥基乔比湖南岸上行。
It washed the water out of the lake, busted out this little six-foot dike, and drowned several hundred people.
它冲走了湖里的水，冲垮了这座六英尺高的小堤坝，淹死了数百人。
Narrator: Howard Sharp’s dire prediction had been fulfilled—and he squarely laid blame for what he called “the day of death” on Fred Elliot.
旁白：霍华德·夏普的可怕预言已经实现——他将他所说的“死亡之日”直接归咎于弗雷德·埃利奥特。
Michael Grunwald, Journalist: Howard Sharp: he believed that it was essentially negligent homicide by the chief engineer because he could have let some of that water out of the lake earlier, but he didn’t wanna flood the downstream communities.
迈克尔·格伦沃尔德（Michael Grunwald），记者：霍华德·夏普（Howard Sharp）：他认为这本质上是总工程师的过失杀人，因为他本可以早点将一些水从湖中排出，但他不想淹没下游社区。
People in Miami and Ft.
迈阿密和英尺的人们。
Lauderdale who had more political juice than the poor farmers in the Everglades.
劳德代尔堡比大沼泽地的贫困农民更有政治影响力。
Narrator: “We are in far more danger from continued administration from Tallahassee,” Sharp insisted, “than we are from any outbreak of nature.”
旁白：“塔拉哈西的持续管理给我们带来的危险，”夏普坚称，“比任何自然灾害爆发给我们带来的危险要大得多。”
Elliot, for his part, refused to take responsibility.
埃利奥特则拒绝承担责任。
Instead, he put forward a $20 million plan to master nature once and for all.
相反，他提出了一项耗资 2000 万美元的计划，以一劳永逸地掌控自然。
Michael Grunwald, Journalist: Fred Elliot did, at least, recognize that there were things that could make the system safer: bigger canals that could move more water out of the lake in a hurry as well as a stronger dike.
迈克尔·格伦沃尔德（Michael Grunwald），记者：弗雷德·埃利奥特（Fred Elliot）至少认识到，有些东西可以使系统更加安全：更大的运河可以迅速将更多的水从湖中排出，以及更坚固的堤坝。
Narrator: Elliot did his best to sell the project, but the state legislature couldn't raise the taxes to pay for it.
旁白：埃利奥特竭尽全力出售该项目，但州立法机关无法提高税收来支付费用。
As one Florida official later observed: "It is mighty hard to get people in other parts of the state interested in whether South Floridians perish or not."
正如佛罗里达州的一位官员后来观察到的那样：“很难让该州其他地区的人们对南佛罗里达人是否消亡感兴趣。”
Michael Grunwald, Journalist: For the first time since the dawn of the Broward era, this great drainage project was essentially on hold.
迈克尔·格伦沃尔德（Michael Grunwald），记者：自布劳沃德时代开始以来，这个伟大的排水工程第一次基本上被搁置。
Narrator: In the end, although the hurricane had claimed 400 lives and left 40,000 homeless in south Florida, Elliot was able to do no more than patch up the existing dike.
旁白：最终，尽管飓风夺去了佛罗里达州南部 400 人的生命，让 4 万人无家可归，但埃利奥特只能修补现有的堤坝。
Still, many remained sanguine about the region's future.
尽管如此，许多人对该地区的未来仍持乐观态度。
"To be sure, some lives were lost in the hurricane," one Florida booster conceded, "but hurricanes come only once in a lifetime."
“可以肯定的是，一些人在飓风中丧生，”佛罗里达州的一名支持者承认，“但飓风一生只会出现一次。”
Narrator: In Miami, the rebuilding began almost immediately, fueled by millions in insurance settlements.
旁白：在迈阿密，在数百万保险赔偿的推动下，重建工作几乎立即开始。
Within months, tourists were returning to America's favorite winter playground and real estate prices were ticking up once more.
几个月之内，游客们纷纷返回美国最喜欢的冬季游乐场，房地产价格再次上涨。
In the upper Glades, farmers waited for the flood waters to recede and then replanted.
在上空地，农民等待洪水退去，然后重新种植。
In the winter of 1927, they shipped over four million dollars worth of produce north, making it a banner year.
1927 年冬天，他们将价值超过 400 万美元的农产品运往北方，成为丰收的一年。
And as planting season approached, a familiar sight returned to the narrow, rutted roads that led to the farms of the upper Glades: thousands of migrant laborers, the vast majority of them black.
随着播种季节的临近，通往上空地农场的狭窄、布满车辙的道路又出现了熟悉的景象：成千上万的移民劳工，其中绝大多数是黑人。
Eliot Kleinberg, Journalist: By the Twenties, some of these farms had gotten quite big and had dozens, or even hundreds, of employees.
Eliot Kleinberg，记者：到了二十年代，其中一些农场已经变得相当大，拥有数十甚至数百名员工。
It became very popular to hire people from either the Deep South or from the Caribbean.
雇用来自南方腹地或加勒比地区的人变得非常流行。
A sharecropper family in the Deep South had an opportunity to come down to Florida where they got paid in cash.
南方腹地的一个佃农家庭有机会来到佛罗里达州，在那里他们得到了现金报酬。
Some people lived in ramshackle shacks.
有些人住在摇摇欲坠的棚屋里。
Some people lived in tents.
有些人住在帐篷里。
But for them it was better than whatever they had had back in Georgia or in the Bahamas.
但对他们来说，这比他们在格鲁吉亚或巴哈马所经历的一切都要好。
Narrator: Novelist Zora Neale Hurston—who grew up in Eatonville, an all-black town just north of Orlando—later recalled the migrants' arrival: “They came in wagons from way up in Georgia and they came in truck loads from east, west, north and south,” she wrote.
旁白：小说家佐拉·尼尔·赫斯顿（Zora Neale Hurston）在奥兰多北部的一个全黑人小镇伊顿维尔（Eatonville）长大，她后来回忆起移民的到来：“他们从佐治亚州的高处乘着马车而来，从东、西、北、南各装着卡车来到这里，”她写道。
“All night, all day, hurrying in to pick beans …
“一整夜，一整天，都赶着去摘豆子……
chugging on to the muck.”
嘎嘎地踩在淤泥上。”
They clustered near the farms southeast of Lake Okeechobee, and temporarily swelled the populations of the towns of Clewiston, South Bay, Pahokee and Belle Glade.
他们聚集在奥基乔比湖东南部的农场附近，暂时增加了克莱维斯顿、南湾、帕霍基和贝尔格莱德等城镇的人口。
They came to plant and to harvest: vegetables, citrus fruit, sugar cane.
他们来种植和收获：蔬菜、柑橘类水果、甘蔗。
In the fields, they often worked alongside Seminole people who likewise spent their lives on the move.
在田野里，他们经常与同样在流动中度过一生的塞米诺尔人一起工作。
Betty Osceola, Local Historian: They had to adapt when they couldn’t hunt anymore.
当地历史学家贝蒂·奥西奥拉：当他们无法再狩猎时，他们必须适应。
So the families, instead of just traveling to look for game, they started following the seasons for the agricultural industry.
因此，这些家庭不再只是外出寻找猎物，而是开始按照季节进行农业生产。
Narrator: The late summer of 1928 brought an estimated 5,000 migrant laborers to the farms around Lake Okeechobee—more than in any previous year.
旁白：1928 年夏末，估计有 5,000 名农民工来到奥基乔比湖周围的农场，数量比往年都要多。
“The people who were pouring in were broke,” Hurston wrote.
“涌入的人都破产了，”赫斯顿写道。
“They didn’t come bringing money, they were coming to make some.”
“他们不是来带钱的，他们是来赚钱的。”
Narrator: The rains fell hard throughout the month of August 1928.
旁白：1928 年 8 月，整个月都下着大雨。
By early September, Lake Okeechobee's water level was nearly three feet above normal.
到九月初，奥基乔比湖的水位比正常水平高出近三英尺。
As he had in 1926, Howard Sharp, now a county commissioner, railed at chief engineer Fred Elliot to discharge water from the lake.
与 1926 年一样，现任县专员霍华德·夏普 (Howard Sharp) 斥责总工程师弗雷德·埃利奥特 (Fred Elliot) 从湖中排水。
Again, Elliot refused.
艾略特再次拒绝了。
"Advocates of a high lake level," Sharp cautioned on September 7th, "take a terrible responsibility on themselves."
9 月 7 日，夏普警告说：“高湖水位的倡导者要为自己承担可怕的责任。”
Four days later, the U.S. Weather Bureau reported a gathering storm, 1,600 miles southeast of Florida.
四天后，美国气象局报告称，佛罗里达州东南 1,600 英里处有一场正在聚集的风暴。
Eliot Kleinberg, Journalist: There was a storm that was out there in the Caribbean.
Eliot Kleinberg，记者：加勒比海正在发生一场风暴。
They knew it was there.
他们知道它就在那里。
The Weather Service said, “Don’t worry about it.
气象局表示：“不用担心。
It’s not gonna hit Florida.”
它不会袭击佛罗里达州。”
Narrator: Over the next several days, as the tropical depression ratcheted up to hurricane force, the Weather Bureau stuck to its forecast—predicting on the night of the 15th that south Florida would be spared the worst of the storm.
旁白：在接下来的几天里，随着热带低气压逐渐增强为飓风强度，气象局坚持其预测——15日晚预计佛罗里达州南部将免受最严重的风暴袭击。
By the time an updated forecast was issued the next morning, most of south Florida was woefully unprepared.
当第二天早上发布最新天气预报时，佛罗里达州南部大部分地区还没有做好准备。
Early that afternoon—September 16th—the hurricane smashed into the coast of Florida at West Palm Beach—then hurtled west toward Lake Okeechobee.
9 月 16 日下午早些时候，飓风袭击了佛罗里达州西棕榈滩海岸，然后向西冲向奥基乔比湖。
Eliot Kleinberg, Journalist: It was a tremendously powerful windstorm that caused tremendous damage along the coast and some loss of life, but that was not what happened in the interior.
Eliot Kleinberg，记者：这是一场非常强大的风暴，对海岸造成了巨大的破坏，并造成了一些人员伤亡，但在内陆地区却没有发生这种情况。
In the interior, it was the water.
在内部，是水。
Narrator: Amid darkening clouds and periodic squalls in the upper Glades that morning, a few of those lucky enough to own a car had fled.
旁白：那天早上，在上空地的乌云密布和周期性狂风中，一些幸运地拥有汽车的人逃离了。
Hundreds more found shelter in one or another of the area's few hotels.
还有数百人在该地区的几家酒店中的一家或另一家找到了庇护所。
But the vast majority had nowhere to go.
但绝大多数人无处可去。
Now, as evening came on, 150-mile-per-hour winds were whipping the swollen lake into a 15-foot-high wall of water.
现在，随着夜幕降临，时速 150 英里的风将肿胀的湖面吹成 15 英尺高的水墙。
Maggy Hurchalla, Local Historian: It was not simply that the water rose up to the top of the dike.
当地历史学家玛吉·胡查拉 (Maggy Hurchalla)：水位上升到堤坝顶部并不简单。
The wind took it and blew it literally at a slant all the way to one side of the 400,000 acre lake and then the wind blew the other way and came right on up over the dike.
风带着它，从字面上看是倾斜地一直吹到40万英亩湖泊的一侧，然后风又吹到另一边，直接越过堤坝。
Eliot Kleinberg, Journalist: It was as if a gigantic hand had tipped that lake and pushed all of that water, from the north end of the lake down to the southeast corner, which is where all the people were.
艾略特·克莱因伯格（Eliot Kleinberg），记者：就好像一只巨大的手倾斜了那个湖，将所有的水从湖的北端推到了东南角，那里是所有人所在的地方。
Narrator: The onrush of water obliterated 21 miles of the 47-mile earthen levee.
旁白：洪水淹没了 47 英里长的土堤中的 21 英里。
Zora Neale Hurston later recounted the terror of that night: “The monstropolous beast had left his bed.
佐拉·尼尔·赫斯顿后来回忆了那天晚上的恐怖：“那只可怕的野兽离开了他的床。
…
……
The sea was walking the earth with a heavy heel.”
大海正以沉重的后跟行走在大地上。”
Eliot Kleinberg, Journalist: There are stories of people whose house collapsed around them and they were floating in 20 feet of water over farm fields, grasping a piece of wood.
Eliot Kleinberg，记者：有一些故事，人们的房子在他们周围倒塌，他们抓住一块木头漂浮在农田上方 20 英尺深的水中。
This storm just slowly but methodically washed across the countryside.
这场风暴缓慢但有条不紊地席卷了乡村。
Narrator: The Okeechobee Hurricane claimed a higher death toll than any other natural disaster in American history, after the Galveston Hurricane of 1900.
旁白：奥基乔比飓风造成的死亡人数比美国历史上任何其他自然灾害都要高，仅次于 1900 年的加尔维斯顿飓风。
All told, an estimated 2,500 people died in south Florida, most of them migrant farm workers who'd been swept from their tents and lean-to shacks, and drowned in the vegetable fields of the Everglades.
总而言之，佛罗里达州南部估计有 2,500 人死亡，其中大多数是移民农场工人，他们被从帐篷和棚屋中冲走，淹死在大沼泽地的菜地里。
Michael Grunwald, Journalist: Hurricanes have been a part of Florida history from the start, but in the past, there really hadn’t been a lot of people living in harm’s way.
迈克尔·格伦沃尔德（Michael Grunwald），记者：飓风从一开始就是佛罗里达州历史的一部分，但在过去，确实没有很多人生活在危险之中。
This was the moment when Florida really had to come to grips with the notion that this was no longer a natural system; it was an engineered system.
这是佛罗里达州真正必须正视这样一个观念的时刻：这不再是一个自然系统；它已经不再是一个自然系统了。这是一个工程系统。
By building the dike and concentrating that water, and then once the lake blasted through the dike, it was way more powerful and way more water.
通过修建堤坝并集中水，然后一旦湖泊冲破堤坝，它的威力就会更大，水量也会更多。
Maggy Hurchalla, Local Historian: My father told me a story of being one of the first reporters in after the ’28 hurricane.
Maggy Hurchala，当地历史学家：我父亲给我讲了一个故事，他是 28 年飓风过后第一批记者之一。
He said they were rowing rowboats in with ropes behind the rowboat, towing bodies with a string of heads bobbing in the water behind the rowboats.
他说，他们正在划艇，划艇后面有绳子，拖着尸体，划艇后面的水里有一串人头在水中晃动。
Narrator: The state mobilized the National Guard to conduct the clean-up—and the Guard, in turn, conscripted black survivors at gunpoint to search for bodies.
旁白：该州动员国民警卫队进行清理工作，而国民警卫队则在枪口下征召黑人幸存者搜寻尸体。
Eliot Kleinberg, Journalist: In the 1920’s, Jim Crow was in full force.
Eliot Kleinberg，记者： 1920 年代，种族隔离制度如火如荼。
Blacks were second-class citizens or invisible.
黑人是二等公民或隐形人。
When it came time to bury people, they weren’t going to waste a coffin or a casket on a black migrant worker.
当需要埋葬人们时，他们不会在黑人移民工人身上浪费棺材或棺材。
And when it came time to create the mass graves on the coast in West Palm Beach, 70 white victims were placed in a marked grave in the back of the city cemetery with great fanfare and dignity.
当在西棕榈滩海岸建立集体坟墓时，70 名白人受害者被大张旗鼓地安葬在城市公墓后面的一个有标记的坟墓里。
But for 700 or so black migrant workers, they were trucked to a pauper’s cemetery in the black neighborhood and a big hole was dug, and they were dumped in.
但对于700名左右的黑人农民工，他们被卡车运到黑人社区的一个乞丐墓地，挖了一个大坑，然后被扔进去。
Narrator: As corpses started to decay, they were tossed into piles by the hundreds and burned in roadside funeral pyres.
旁白：随着尸体开始腐烂，成百上千的尸体被扔成一堆，并在路边的火葬堆中焚烧。
“Ugly death," one cleanup worker recalled, "was simply everywhere.”
“丑陋的死亡，”一位清理工人回忆道，“到处都是。”
Thomas Van Lent, Civil Engineer: The Hurricane of 1928 is one of those transformative events in Florida’s history.
Thomas Van Lent，土木工程师：1928 年的飓风是佛罗里达州历史上的变革性事件之一。
There’s immense human suffering, immense economic catastrophe for Florida, and it changed the way people looked at the Everglades.
佛罗里达州遭受了巨大的人类苦难和巨大的经济灾难，这改变了人们对大沼泽地的看法。
Lake Okeechobee was, sort of, something you had to conquer before, but now it looked positively menacing.
奥基乔比湖以前是你必须征服的地方，但现在它看起来确实很危险。
It could kill you at any time.
它随时都可能杀死你。
There was a sense we had to do something.
有一种感觉我们必须做点什么。
We had to chain this beast.
我们必须用链子拴住这只野兽。
Narrator: Five months after the hurricane, a visitor from Washington, DC arrived to inspect the damage—the newly-elected President of the United States, Herbert Hoover.
旁白：飓风发生五个月后，一位来自华盛顿特区的访客来到这里视察受损情况，他就是新当选的美国总统赫伯特·胡佛。
An engineer by training, Hoover, as commerce secretary, had led the massive relief effort for the victims of the catastrophic 1927 Mississippi River flood.
胡佛是一名训练有素的工程师，在担任商务部长期间，他领导了对 1927 年密西西比河灾难性洪水受害者的大规模救援工作。
But what south Florida needed, he could see, was more than relief.
但他认为，南佛罗里达需要的不仅仅是解脱。
“I’m going to help you with this thing,” Hoover vowed.
“我会在这件事上帮助你，”胡佛发誓。
Michael Grunwald, Journalist: 1928 made it clear that the federal government was needed to solve the problems of the Everglades.
Michael Grunwald，记者：1928 年明确表示需要联邦政府来解决大沼泽地的问题。
It also made clear that the biggest problem was the potential for catastrophe that would kill thousands of people.
它还明确指出，最大的问题是可能发生导致数千人死亡的灾难。
And, in Florida, they really started an assault on the Everglades to prevent 1928 from happening again.
而且，在佛罗里达州，他们真正开始了对大沼泽地的进攻，以防止 1928 年的事情再次发生。
Narrator: The new engineering solution to the problem of Lake Okeechobee would take 10 years and 20 million dollars to build: a concrete wall as tall as a four-story building and more than twice as wide, standing solidly between the lake and the Everglades.
旁白：解决奥基乔比湖问题的新工程解决方案需要 10 年时间和 2000 万美元才能建成：一堵混凝土墙有四层楼那么高，宽度是其两倍多，坚固地矗立在奥基乔比湖和大沼泽地之间。
Thomas Van Lent, Civil Engineer: The ostensible purpose was to protect the communities around the lake, and it did that.
土木工程师 Thomas Van Lent：表面上的目的是保护湖周围的社区，而它确实做到了。
But that transformed how the Everglades worked.
但这改变了大沼泽地的运作方式。
Now, the very heart of the Everglades would be forever cut off.
现在，大沼泽地的心脏地带将被永远切断。
Leslie Poole, Historian: For thousands of years we’ve, in western civilization, been under the impression that our decisions about nature are only going to improve it.
历史学家莱斯利·普尔：几千年来，在西方文明中，我们一直认为我们对自然的决定只会改善它。
And we believe that we can make changes without really understanding what those consequences would be.
我们相信，我们可以在没有真正了解这些后果的情况下做出改变。
Narrator: On February 11, 1930, 100 miles south of Lake Okeechobee, Marjory Stoneman Douglas joined a group of officials from the National Park Service aboard a Goodyear blimp to tour the lower Everglades—a trip Douglas had helped arrange.
旁白：1930 年 2 月 11 日，在奥基乔比湖以南 100 英里处，玛乔丽·斯通曼·道格拉斯 (Marjory Stoneman Douglas) 与国家公园管理局的一群官员一起乘坐固特异飞艇前往大沼泽地下游游览——这次旅行是道格拉斯帮助安排的。
Marjory Stoneman Douglas, VOICE: The visitors looked down through flocks of blue and white herons tossing and falling like scraps of paper between them and the earth.
马乔里·斯通曼·道格拉斯（Marjory Stoneman Douglas），配音：参观者们俯视着成群的蓝白色苍鹭，它们像纸片一样在它们和大地之间翻来覆去。
…
……
The land alone, with all its great potentialities, seemed strange, a region which, if the plans succeed, will become the second largest national park in the United States of America.
仅这片拥有巨大潜力的土地似乎很奇怪，如果计划成功，该地区将成为美利坚合众国第二大国家公园。
Narrator: Ever since the federal government had proposed it, in 1923, the idea of establishing a national park in the Everglades had steadily gained followers.
旁白：自从1923年联邦政府提出在大沼泽地建立国家公园的想法以来，就逐渐得到了追随者的支持。
And Douglas, like many of them, had been drawn into the effort by Ernest Coe, a single-minded landscape architect known as “Papa of the Everglades.”
和他们中的许多人一样，道格拉斯也被欧内斯特·科 (Ernest Coe) 的努力所吸引，他是一位一心一意的景观设计师，被称为“大沼泽地爸爸”。
Coe had come to Miami in 1925, hoping to capitalize on the boom.
1925 年，科来到迈阿密，希望能利用经济繁荣。
Instead, he arrived just in time for the bust—and wound up falling in love with the Everglades.
相反，他正好赶上萧条，并最终爱上了大沼泽地。
"It is the spirit of the thing that holds you," Coe explained, “and arouses in you a deep feeling of reverence and wonder.”
“是事物的精神支撑着你，”科解释道，“并在你内心唤起一种深深的崇敬和惊奇的感觉。”
Michael Grunwald, Journalist: Ernest Coe was obsessed.
迈克尔·格伦沃尔德（Michael Grunwald），记者：欧内斯特·科（Ernest Coe）很着迷。
He believed that the Everglades was not just a wasteland.
他相信大沼泽地不仅仅是一片荒地。
He believed that it was a unique creation of God, a place that should be preserved not just for the sake of the birds or for the sake of the royal palms but for the sake of itself.
他相信这是上帝独特的创造，这个地方应该被保护，不仅仅是为了鸟类或皇家棕榈树，而是为了它本身。
Narrator: Coe had taken Douglas on numerous field trips to the Everglades over the years, and had convinced her the massive wetland was a treasure to be preserved.
旁白：多年来，科带领道格拉斯多次前往大沼泽地进行实地考察，并让她相信这片巨大的湿地是值得保护的宝藏。
“The purpose and the power of the idea,” Douglas recalled, “would dominate his every moment for the rest of his life.”
“这个想法的目的和力量，”道格拉斯回忆道，“将主宰他余生的每一刻。”
Douglas Brinkley, Historian: Ernest Coe promotes the Everglades like nobody’s business—letters to everybody, newspaper articles, photographs—to the point of annoying people in Tallahassee.
道格拉斯·布林克利 (Douglas Brinkley)，历史学家：欧内斯特·科 (Ernest Coe) 宣传大沼泽地就像不关人事一样——给所有人的信、报纸文章、照片——以至于惹恼了塔拉哈西的人们。
But he put his shoulder to the wheel and enlightened people about it, preaching the gospel of the Everglades wherever he went.
但他用自己的肩膀来启发人们，无论他走到哪里，都传播大沼泽地的福音。
Narrator: The boundaries Coe had drawn for the park reflected his expansive vision: more than two million acres were to be included, from fifteen miles above the Tamiami Trail to the Big Cypress Swamp to the coral reefs that dotted the Florida Keys.
旁白：科为公园绘制的边界反映了他广阔的视野：包括超过 200 万英亩的范围，从塔迈阿密步道上方 15 英里到大柏树沼泽，再到点缀在佛罗里达群岛的珊瑚礁。
The challenge was to convince people of the Everglades' value—and for that, Coe turned to Douglas for help.
面临的挑战是让人们相信大沼泽地的价值，为此，科向道格拉斯寻求帮助。
Jack Davis, Historian: Ernest Coe sees in Douglas the opportunity to bring somebody into this movement who could generate publicity.
杰克·戴维斯（Jack Davis），历史学家：欧内斯特·科（Ernest Coe）在道格拉斯身上看到了机会，可以将某人带入这场能够引起公众关注的运动。
The great challenge that Coe and Douglas were facing in convincing Washington and the American public, even many people in south Florida, that the Everglades is worthy of national park status, is that it didn’t have what every national park before the Everglades had.
科和道格拉斯在说服华盛顿和美国公众，甚至佛罗里达州南部的许多人相信大沼泽地值得获得国家公园地位时面临的巨大挑战是，它没有大沼泽地之前每个国家公园都拥有的东西。
Leslie Poole, Historian: Most national parks in America had been created out of scenic value.
历史学家莱斯利·普尔：美国大多数国家公园都是出于风景价值而建立的。
You can’t walk into Yosemite and not get it, or the Grand Canyon.
你不可能走进优胜美地国家公园而不了解它，或者大峡谷。
You totally understand why that needs to be preserved.
您完全理解为什么需要保留它。
It’s just amazing.
这真是太棒了。
It’s awe-inspiring.
这是令人敬畏的。
But when you look at the Everglades, eh, not so much.
但当你看看大沼泽地时，呃，情况就不那么严重了。
It’s a lot of sky, and it’s a lot of sawgrass and water.
这里有很多天空，还有很多锯草和水。
Michael Grunwald, Journalist: At the time, the Everglades was still seen, to most Americans, as a useless swamp.
迈克尔·格伦沃尔德（Michael Grunwald），记者：当时，对于大多数美国人来说，大沼泽地仍然被视为无用的沼泽地。
It was an uphill climb in Congress to try to convince people that, “You may be a congressman from Iowa, but you should care about these snakes and mosquitos and rats down in south Florida that are now gonna be part of America’s natural heritage.”
在国会，试图让人们相信“你可能是来自爱荷华州的国会议员，但你应该关心佛罗里达州南部的这些蛇、蚊子和老鼠，它们现在将成为美国自然遗产的一部分”，这是一次艰难的攀登。
Narrator: Coe also was anxious to overcome the perception, as he put it, “that the Everglades National Park was just another Florida promotion scheme." So he supplemented the aerial tour with a rare up-close view, leading his guests on a three-day boat trip into the heart of the so-called swamp.
旁白：科也急于克服这样的看法，正如他所说，“大沼泽地国家公园只是佛罗里达州的另一个促销计划。”因此，他在空中游览的基础上增加了一次罕见的近距离观察，带领客人进行为期三天的乘船之旅，进入所谓的沼泽中心。
Douglas Brinkley, Historian: The problem of marketing the Everglades as a National Park is how do you experience it.
历史学家道格拉斯·布林克利：将大沼泽地作为国家公园进行营销的问题是你如何体验它。
The Everglades was hard to access.
大沼泽地很难到达。
It was work.
这是工作。
Leslie Poole, Historian: The park advocates were really brilliant, I think, in their campaign.
历史学家莱斯利·普尔：我认为，公园倡导者在他们的竞选活动中非常出色。
They understood the real value of the Everglades was really in its biodiversity and all of the plants and animals that it contained.
他们了解大沼泽地的真正价值在于其生物多样性以及其中包含的所有植物和动物。
And they knew that if they could get these congress people from outside of the state of Florida to see that big picture, then they could win their support.
他们知道，如果他们能让佛罗里达州以外的国会议员看到大局，那么他们就能赢得他们的支持。
They could see the enormity of it, and then they got it.
他们可以看到事情的严重性，然后他们就明白了。
Marjory Stoneman Douglas, VOICE: People say, “what in the world can anyone see in that country, to make a national park of?” And yet even as they say that, their eyes are widened a little.
马乔里·斯通曼·道格拉斯（Marjory Stoneman Douglas），声音：人们说，“在那个国家，世界上到底有什么东西可以用来建造国家公园？”然而话虽如此，他们的眼睛还是睁大了一些。
They are affected by an extraordinary simplicity.
他们受到一种非凡的简单的影响。
They are touched by it.
他们被它感动了。
They remember.
他们记得。
Narrator: Although the visiting committee recommended Coe's proposal to Congress with enthusiasm, it wasn't until 1934—following the election of longtime south Florida fan Franklin Roosevelt—that the Everglades park figured prominently in the nation's plans.
旁白：尽管来访委员会热情地向国会推荐了科的提案，但直到 1934 年，南佛罗里达州的长期粉丝富兰克林·罗斯福当选后，大沼泽地公园才在国家规划中占据重要地位。
Douglas Brinkley, Historian: Roosevelt called 1934 the “Year of the National Park,” and he toured the whole country visiting them.
历史学家道格拉斯·布林克利 (Douglas Brinkley)：罗斯福将 1934 年称为“国家公园年”，并巡游全国参观国家公园。
The Everglades became a principal part of that campaign.
大沼泽地成为该战役的主要部分。
And the idea was a new kind of biological park, a Galapagos of America.
这个想法是建立一种新型的生物公园，即美国的加拉帕戈斯群岛。
It was a place that you would see animal life like nowhere else.
在这里你可以看到独一无二的动物生活。
This shows an enlightenment.
这显示了一种启示。
This is the national park idea coming into maturity.
这是国家公园理念的成熟。
Narrator: On May 30, 1934, President Roosevelt signed a bill authorizing the creation of Everglades National Park.
旁白：1934年5月30日，罗斯福总统签署了一项法案，授权建立大沼泽地国家公园。
But before any park could be created, the state of Florida would have to buy back the land it had sold to homesteaders, speculators, and business concerns—each of which imagined a different future for the Everglades.
但在建造任何公园之前，佛罗里达州必须回购其出售给自耕农、投机者和商业企业的土地——他们每个人都为大沼泽地设想了不同的未来。
Michael Grunwald, Journalist: In the West, the federal government owned most of the land, so it was pretty easy to just decide not to sell it to private landowners if you wanted to preserve it.
迈克尔·格伦沃尔德（Michael Grunwald），记者：在西方，联邦政府拥有大部分土地，因此如果你想保护它，很容易决定不将其出售给私人土地所有者。
In south Florida, most of this land was in the private domain and that meant a lot of horse trading, it meant a lot of delays, and it meant some very difficult decisions about what was gonna be in and what was gonna be out.
在佛罗里达州南部，大部分土地都属于私人领地，这意味着大量的讨价还价，意味着大量的延误，也意味着要做出一些非常困难的决定，决定什么要进去，什么要出去。
Narrator: Throughout the 1930’s—as the Depression crippled much of the nation and drought decimated crops across the Southern Plains—people flocked to the upper Everglades, to work the fields in the shadow of the massive dike rising along the shore of Lake Okeechobee.
旁白：在整个 1930 年代，大萧条使美国大部分地区陷入瘫痪，干旱导致南部平原的农作物大量减产，人们纷纷涌向大沼泽地上游，在奥基乔比湖沿岸高大堤坝的阴影下耕种田地。
Long before it was finished, in 1938, locals began calling the dike the “Great Wall of the Everglades,” confident that it would protect their families and their farms.
1938 年，早在堤坝竣工之前，当地人就开始将这条堤坝称为“大沼泽地长城”，相信它将保护他们的家人和农场。
And while vegetables remained the primary crop, the long-held dream of producing sugar on a grand scale now became reality.
虽然蔬菜仍然是主要农作物，但大规模生产糖的长期梦想现已成为现实。
Paul Sutter, Historian: Sugar is a hugely important commodity to the United States in the early 20 th century, and much of the sugar that the United States is getting is coming from offshore, and particularly places like Cuba.
历史学家保罗·萨特（Paul Sutter）：在 20 世纪初，糖对美国来说是一种非常重要的商品，美国获得的大部分糖都来自近海，尤其是古巴等地。
Sugar is also the subject of intensive debates over tariffs, and protectionism, and so there are many Americans who want to produce sugar within the United States.
食糖也是关税和保护主义激烈辩论的主题，因此有许多美国人希望在美国境内生产食糖。
Narrator: In 1931, on the southwest edge of Lake Okeechobee, a General Motors executive established the United States Sugar Corporation—and soon built it into the largest sugar producer in America.
旁白：1931 年，在奥基乔比湖南岸，通用汽车公司的一位高管成立了美国糖业公司，并很快将其发展成为美国最大的糖业生产商。
“It has been demonstrated beyond …
“它已经被证明超越......
any doubt," the company’s president proclaimed, “that the Everglades has …
毫无疑问，”该公司总裁宣称，“大沼泽地已经......
possibilities and potentialities for the immediate future far beyond the dreams of the past.”
不久的将来的可能性和潜力远远超出了过去的梦想。”
But increasingly, the Everglades also had problems.
但大沼泽地也逐渐出现了问题。
Leslie Poole, Historian: The Everglades system was starting to come more and more under the management of humans.
历史学家莱斯利·普尔：大沼泽地系统开始越来越多地受到人类的管理。
For those in the agricultural business, it was a boom time because this drained Everglades peat was, initially, wonderful for agriculture.
对于那些从事农业行业的人来说，这是一个繁荣时期，因为这种排水的大沼泽地泥炭最初非常适合农业。
But the soil also subsided very rapidly.
但土壤也沉降得非常快。
And so this tropical agricultural Eden was proving to not be operating in the way that they hoped it would.
事实证明，这个热带农业伊甸园并没有按照他们希望的方式运作。
Paul Sutter: The soils of the Everglades are formed as a result of being fairly constantly inundated with water, once they are exposed to the atmosphere, break down very rapidly; they dry up and blow away.
保罗·萨特：大沼泽地的土壤是由于经常被水淹没而形成的，一旦暴露在大气中，就会很快分解；它们会干涸并被风吹走。
Gail Hollander, Geographer: It’s almost like a form of desertification similar to what happened in the U.S. West.
地理学家盖尔·霍兰德：这几乎就像是一种荒漠化，类似于美国西部发生的情况。
It’s Florida’s version of a Dust Bowl.
这是佛罗里达州版本的沙尘暴。
Narrator: Not only was the prized soil disappearing on the wind, but the water table had dropped precipitously, choking off the supply of fresh drinking water to Miami, now a city of more than 100,000.
旁白：不仅珍贵的土壤随风消失，地下水位也急剧下降，切断了迈阿密这个人口超过 10 万的城市的新鲜饮用水供应。
Thomas Van Lent, Civil Engineer: The City of Miami got its water from wells.
Thomas Van Lent，土木工程师：迈阿密市从井中取水。
They immediately went salty.
他们立即变咸了。
Saltwater intruded.
盐水侵入。
They lost their water supply.
他们失去了供水。
Narrator: But what captured attention across the country was the fires—seemingly unquenchable blazes that swept across the sawgrass prairies and burned up the precious peat and muck.
旁白：但引起全国关注的是大火——看似无法扑灭的大火，席卷了锯齿草草原，烧毁了珍贵的泥炭和泥土。
Gail Hollander, Geographer: This dried, desiccated peat soil becomes flammable; something that had held water is now capable of burning on a wide scale.
地理学家盖尔·霍兰德（Gail Hollander）：这种干燥的泥炭土变得易燃；曾经积水的东西现在能够大范围燃烧。
Thomas Van Lent, Civil Engineer: What burns is literally the soil.
Thomas Van Lent，土木工程师：燃烧的实际上是土壤。
You can lose 1,000 years of accumulated plant soil build up in an afternoon’s fire.
一个下午的火灾可能会导致 1000 年积累的植物土壤消失。
This smoldering, smoking soil that just keeps burning and burning and burning, and that can last for days, weeks, or even months until the water comes back and puts it out.
这种闷烧、冒烟的土壤会不断地燃烧、燃烧、燃烧，并且可以持续数天、数周甚至数月，直到水返回并将其扑灭。
Police Officer: Take it very slow.
警官：慢慢来。
Go about 15 miles an hour.
每小时行驶约 15 英里。
Keep to the right …
保持靠右行驶……
Narrator: In 1939 alone, one million acres of drained wetland were incinerated, destroying potential farmland worth an estimated 40 million dollars.
旁白：仅 1939 年，就有 100 万英亩排干的湿地被焚烧，毁坏了价值约 4000 万美元的潜在农田。
So much smoke hovered over the region that roads were declared impassable due to low visibility, and schoolchildren all the way in Miami had to cover their faces with wet handkerchiefs.
由于能见度低，该地区烟雾弥漫，道路无法通行，迈阿密的学童们不得不用湿手帕遮住脸。
Leslie Poole, Historian: It was apparent that something was amiss in the system.
莱斯利·普尔（Leslie Poole），历史学家：很明显，系统中出现了问题。
It’s been manipulated by humans, and it’s not responding in a natural way.
它是被人类操纵的，并且不会以自然的方式做出反应。
Thomas Van Lent, Civil Engineer: There was, a sort of, sense of, “What is going on out there?” They’d never seen anything like it.
Thomas Van Lent，土木工程师：有一种感觉，“外面发生了什么？”他们从来没有见过这样的东西。
It just seemed like something was really wrong.
看起来好像真的出了什么问题。
And that’s when you start to see people going out to the Everglades and seeing if they could figure out what it was.
就在那时，你开始看到人们前往大沼泽地，看看他们是否能弄清楚那是什么。
Narrator: Over the years that she'd been in Florida, Marjory Stoneman Douglas had been inspired to write about the Everglades on more than one occasion.
旁白：在佛罗里达的这些年里，玛乔丽·斯通曼·道格拉斯不止一次受到启发，想要写一篇有关大沼泽地的文章。
She had hailed the region's virtues as a site for development, and called for the preservation of its natural wonders.
她称赞该地区作为发展地点的优点，并呼吁保护其自然奇观。
In 1943, she decided to take a new tack, and write about the Everglades as an environment to be understood.
1943 年，她决定采取新的策略，将大沼泽地描述为一个需要理解的环境。
Jack Davis, Historian: She had published many, many articles in national newspapers, particularly Saturday Evening Post , and she was asked to contribute a volume to the Rivers of America series, and she was asked to write her book on the Miami River.
历史学家杰克·戴维斯：她在全国性报纸上发表了很多很多文章，特别是《周六晚邮报》，她被要求为“美国河流”系列贡献一卷，并被要求写一本关于迈阿密河的书。
Leslie Poole, Historian: They thought the Miami River might be a good subject.
莱斯利·普尔，历史学家：他们认为迈阿密河可能是一个很好的主题。
But Douglas knew that it wasn’t a very long river, and there wasn’t a whole lot to it.
但道格拉斯知道这不是一条很长的河，也没有什么大不了的。
And rather than let a book contract slip away, she began to mull over the possibility of using the Everglades for a book.
为了不让图书合同溜走，她开始考虑利用大沼泽地出书的可能性。
Narrator: “They have been called the ‘mysterious Everglades’ so long," Douglas argued, "that the phrase is a meaningless platitude.” The publisher agreed—and Douglas set off to learn all she could.
旁白：“长期以来，它们一直被称为‘神秘的大沼泽地’，”道格拉斯辩称，“这个词是毫无意义的陈词滥调。”出版商同意了，道格拉斯开始尽其所能地学习。
Jack Davis, Historian: Marjory Stoneman Douglas is doing exhaustive research on this book in the archives, in personal papers and conversations with people.
历史学家杰克·戴维斯：玛乔丽·斯通曼·道格拉斯正在档案、个人论文和与人们的对话中对这本书进行详尽的研究。
Narrator: Among the many experts Douglas consulted for the book was Garald Parker, a scientist with the United States Geological Survey.
旁白：道格拉斯为本书咨询的众多专家中，有一位是美国地质调查局的科学家加拉尔德·帕克。
Parker had been sent to south Florida to examine the salt contamination of Miami's well water.
帕克被派往佛罗里达州南部检查迈阿密井水的盐污染情况。
Thomas Van Lent, Civil Engineer: Parker was very methodical and was focused on getting as many measurements as he could.
Thomas Van Lent，土木工程师：Parker 非常有条理，专注于获得尽可能多的测量结果。
So he was one of the first to actually start stream gauging.
所以他是最早真正开始流量测量的人之一。
How much water is leaving the Everglades?
有多少水离开大沼泽地？
How much water is coming in the Everglades?
大沼泽地有多少水流入？
So he was using observation and measurements, trying to make a hypothesis about how the Everglades worked.
因此，他利用观察和测量，试图对大沼泽地的运作方式做出假设。
Narrator: Parker’s study reflected a growing concern with ecology—a developing science dedicated to the relation between organisms and their environment.
旁白：帕克的研究反映了人们对生态学日益增长的关注——一门致力于研究生物体与其环境之间关系的发展中的科学。
What he found was alarming: without constant replenishment of the Everglades, the wells that supplied drinking water for the coastal cities would be contaminated by salt.
他的发现令人震惊：如果没有大沼泽地的持续补充，为沿海城市提供饮用水的水井将受到盐污染。
Thomas Van Lent: VAN LENT: The water levels sank so low because the fresh water coming in off the Everglades was cut off.
托马斯·范·伦特 (Thomas Van Lent)： 范·伦特：由于来自大沼泽地的淡水被切断，水位下降得如此之低。
And he mapped all that.
他绘制了这一切。
He made these predictions about the saltwater intrusion coming in from the ocean.
他对来自海洋的咸水入侵做出了这些预测。
Jack Davis, Historian: Marjory Stoneman Douglas consulted with Parker who was generous in taking her out to the Everglades on research trips with him to talk about what the Everglades really was biologically and hydrologically.
杰克·戴维斯，历史学家：玛乔丽·斯通曼·道格拉斯咨询了帕克，帕克慷慨地带她一起去大沼泽地进行研究旅行，谈论大沼泽地的生物学和水文学的真正含义。
Parker’s discovering the ecology of the Everglades, but he’s a scientist, and so he’s writing up his findings in this arcane language of the scientist.
帕克发现了大沼泽地的生态，但他是一名科学家，所以他用科学家的神秘语言写下了他的发现。
Douglas, however, was a journalist, she was a poet, she was a short story writer, and it dawns on her: this is not a stagnant swamp.
然而，道格拉斯是一名记者、诗人、短篇小说作家，她突然意识到：这并不是一片死气沉沉的沼泽。
This is a living, breathing place, and the water flows.
这是一个有生命、会呼吸、水在流动的地方。
And she asked him one day, “Can I get away with calling the Everglades a river of grass?” He said, “Yes!”
有一天，她问他：“我可以把大沼泽地称为草河吗？”他说：“是啊！”
Narrator: In November 1947, Douglas published The Everglades: River of Grass— and forever redefined the region as essential not only to wildlife, but to people.
旁白：1947 年 11 月，道格拉斯出版了《大沼泽地：草河》一书，并永远重新定义了该地区，不仅对野生动物至关重要，而且对人类也至关重要。
Marjory Stoneman Douglas, VOICE: There are no other Everglades in the world.
马乔里·斯通曼·道格拉斯（Marjory Stoneman Douglas），声音：世界上没有其他大沼泽地。
…
……
The miracle of light pours over the green and brown expanse of saw grass and of water, shining and slow-moving below, the grass and water that is the meaning, and the central fact, of the Everglades of Florida.
奇迹般的光洒在绿色和棕色的锯草和水面上，在下面缓慢移动，闪闪发光，草和水就是佛罗里达大沼泽地的意义和中心事实。
It is a river of grass.
这是一条长满青草的河流。
Jack Davis, Historian: To describe the Everglades as a river is lyrical and memorable, something that people could latch on to and actually develop an image around.
历史学家杰克·戴维斯：将大沼泽地描述为一条河流既抒情又令人难忘，人们可以抓住它并实际上围绕它形成一个形象。
We know what a river looks like.
我们知道河流是什么样子。
We know what grass looks like.
我们知道草是什么样子。
They’re putting the two together and getting this image of the Everglades, which is wholly different from a swamp.
他们将两者放在一起，得到了大沼泽地的图像，它与沼泽完全不同。
Maggy Hurchalla, Local Historian: Marjory was a wonderful writer who was able to listen to hydrologists, listen to biologists, listen to people who understood the system and to translate that into the magic of the sunrises and the sunsets.
玛吉·赫尔查拉 (Maggy Hurchala)，当地历史学家：马乔里是一位出色的作家，她能够倾听水文学家、生物学家、了解该系统的人们的意见，并将其转化为日出和日落的魔力。
Leslie Poole, Historian: It changed the whole country’s attitude about what the Everglades were.
历史学家莱斯利·普尔：它改变了整个国家对大沼泽地的态度。
When her book came out, it sold out almost immediately and went into immediate reprinting.
当她的书出版时，几乎立即售空，并立即重印。
Jack Davis, Historian: The book breaks new ground because she’s showing the readers she’s examining the human relationship with the natural world.
历史学家杰克·戴维斯：这本书开辟了新天地，因为她向读者展示了她正在审视人类与自然世界的关系。
She’s showing readers they have this intimate connection with the natural world.
她向读者展示了他们与自然世界的密切联系。
Douglas, in writing her book, I think, to some degree, sees the future: that we just can no longer talk about beauty, we can no longer talk about the benefits to wildlife, we gotta talk about the ecology, the ecosystem and its benefits to the human population as well.
我认为道格拉斯在写她的书时，在某种程度上看到了未来：我们不能再谈论美，我们不能再谈论对野生动物的好处，我们必须谈论生态、生态系统及其对人类的好处。
Marjory Stoneman Douglas, VOICE: The Everglades were one thing, one vast unified harmonious whole, in which the old subtle balance, which had been destroyed, must somehow be replaced, if the nature of this whole region and the life of the coastal cities were to be saved.
马乔里·斯通曼·道格拉斯（Marjory Stoneman Douglas），声音：大沼泽地是一回事，是一个巨大的统一和谐的整体，如果要拯救整个地区的自然和沿海城市的生命，就必须以某种方式取代已经被破坏的旧的微妙平衡。
Newsreel Narrator: In Florida, at Everglades City, President Truman dedicates a famous wilderness as a national park.
新闻片旁白：在佛罗里达州的大沼泽地市，杜鲁门总统将一片著名的荒野建成国家公园。
President Truman : Today, we mark the achievement of another great conservation victory.
杜鲁门总统：今天，我们庆祝取得的又一项伟大的保护胜利。
Narrator: On December 6, 1947, a month after the publication of Douglas’s book, more than 5,000 people turned out for the formal dedication of Everglades National Park.
旁白：1947 年 12 月 6 日，道格拉斯的书出版一个月后，超过 5,000 人参加了大沼泽地国家公园的正式落成典礼。
Douglas was there, along with the park’s most devoted champion, Ernest Coe.
道格拉斯和公园最忠诚的冠军欧内斯特·科也在场。
So too were many of the women’s club members whose conservation efforts stretched all the way back to the creation of Royal Palm State Park—which had been donated as the nucleus of the National Park and was commemorated that day as "a gift to the nation."
许多妇女俱乐部成员也是如此，她们的保护工作可以追溯到皇家棕榈州立公园的创建——该公园被捐赠为国家公园的核心，并在那天作为“给国家的礼物”进行纪念。
It had taken 13 years of negotiations for the state of Florida to acquire the land for the park, and resistance had come from all sides—from hunters, commercial fisherman, farmers, and oil producers who'd only recently begun to drill into the muck.
佛罗里达州花了 13 年的时间才获得公园用地，而阻力来自各方——来自猎人、商业渔民、农民和最近才开始在淤泥中钻探的石油生产商。
In the end, the two million acre park that Coe had proposed, and Congress approved, had been whittled down nearly by half.
最终，科提议并得到国会批准的 200 万英亩公园被削减了近一半。
Coe was so bitter about the final boundaries, he had to be convinced by friends to attend the dedication ceremony.
科对最终的边界感到非常痛苦，他不得不在朋友的说服下参加落成典礼。
But when he was introduced as the “daddy” of the park, the crowd burst into applause.
但当他被介绍为公园的“爸爸”时，人群爆发出热烈的掌声。
Michael Grunwald, Journalist: It’s a tribute to these people who were way ahead of their time when they realized that this was something that ought to be preserved for the centuries to come.
迈克尔·格伦沃尔德（Michael Grunwald），记者：这是对这些远远领先于时代的人们的致敬，他们意识到这是应该在未来几个世纪中保存的东西。
President Truman: We have permanently safeguarded an irreplaceable primitive area, the Everglades National Park.
杜鲁门总统：我们永久保护了一个不可替代的原始地区——大沼泽国家公园。
(applause)
（掌声）
Narrator: Also present at the dedication were representatives of the Seminole, who eyed the celebration warily.
旁白：出席落成典礼的还有塞米诺尔人的代表，他们警惕地注视着庆祝活动。
Betty Osceola, Local Historian: A lot of that area was designated for the indigenous people.
当地历史学家贝蒂·奥西奥拉（Betty Osceola）：该地区的大部分地区都被指定为土著人民居住。
That designation was removed to be replaced by the creation of Everglades National Park, so almost a taking from the people.
该名称被取消，并被大沼泽地国家公园的创建所取代，因此几乎是从人民那里夺取的。
The Seminole people living in the park didn’t meet the ideals of what the park was created for.
居住在公园里的塞米诺尔人并不符合公园创建目的的理想。
It conflicted.
这很矛盾。
Andrew Frank, Historian: Without treaty, without agreement, the Seminoles try to fight to keep sovereignty over their land and try to maintain some semblance of control over what seems to be a rapidly changing environment both politically and ecologically.
历史学家安德鲁·弗兰克：在没有条约、没有协议的情况下，塞米诺尔人试图通过斗争来保持对其土地的主权，并试图在政治和生态方面对似乎迅速变化的环境保持某种程度的控制。
Narrator: The Seminole were not the park's only critics.
旁白：塞米诺尔人并不是公园唯一的批评者。
Douglas Brinkley, Historian: Not everybody was happy with the Everglades National Park.
历史学家道格拉斯·布林克利：并不是每个人都对大沼泽国家公园感到满意。
The fact that Florida’s developing so quickly, there are a lot of capitalists that’ll say, “The National Park was a mistake”—That there was money to be had if we would’ve drained it.
事实上，佛罗里达州发展得如此之快，有很多资本家会说，“国家公园是一个错误”——如果我们把钱耗尽的话，还有钱可赚。
We could’ve had sub-development after sub-development after sub-development.
我们可以进行一次又一次的子开发。
I think skepticism about that park exists for decades to come.
我认为对这个公园的怀疑在未来几十年仍然存在。
Narrator: For conservationists, Everglades National Park was a triumph—and a bulwark against the often reckless development that had marked south Florida for the past half century.
旁白：对于自然资源保护主义者来说，大沼泽地国家公园是一次胜利，也是抵御过去半个世纪南佛罗里达州经常鲁莽开发的堡垒。
But the message put forward in Douglas’s River of Grass suggested that the Everglades could not be preserved piece by piece.
但道格拉斯的《草河》中提出的信息表明，大沼泽地不能一块一块地保存下来。
Paul Sutter, Historian: Drawing the line around the portion of the Everglades that gets protected as a national park, while a very powerful thing to do—a way of keeping out those forces of commerce and economic transformation—is also an act that just simply can’t accommodate for the dynamism of the system hydrologically and ecologically.
历史学家保罗·萨特（Paul Sutter）：在大沼泽地作为国家公园受到保护的部分划定界限，虽然是一项非常有力的事情——一种排除商业和经济转型力量的方法——但也是一种根本无法适应水文和生态系统活力的行为。
And so the health of the park is the health of that system, and protecting a park without assuring the health of that system is, in the end, really only a half measure.
因此，公园的健康就是该系统的健康，在不保证该系统健康的情况下保护公园最终实际上只是一个一半的措施。
Narrator: For the Everglades, the second half of the 20th century would play out much like the first, with water remaining the region's primary obstacle to growth––and engineering the remedy of choice.
旁白：对于大沼泽地来说，20 世纪下半叶的情况将与上半叶非常相似，水仍然是该地区经济增长的主要障碍，并设计了首选的补救措施。
In the years following World War II, the Army Corps of Engineers would undertake an epic project to subdue––once again, and once and for all––the region's natural cycle of flood and drought, resulting in the most elaborate water control system the world had ever seen.
第二次世界大战后的几年里，陆军工程兵团将开展一项史诗般的项目，再次、一劳永逸地抑制该地区洪水和干旱的自然循环，从而建立了世界上最复杂的水控制系统。
And once again, the promise of control would fuel an unprecedented boom—intensifying agriculture, boosting tourism, increasing Florida's population by roughly a million every five years, and ratcheting up the already-fierce conflict over water.
控制的承诺将再次推动前所未有的繁荣——集约化农业，促进旅游业，使佛罗里达州的人口每五年增加约一百万，并加剧本已激烈的水资源冲突。
Jack Davis, Historian: So you have all these competing interests in the Everglades and each wants the Everglades to work for them.
历史学家杰克·戴维斯：所以你们在大沼泽地里有所有这些相互竞争的利益，每个人都希望大沼泽地为他们服务。
Thomas Van Lent, Civil Engineer: It was absolutely catastrophic for the natural system.
Thomas Van Lent，土木工程师：这对自然系统来说绝对是灾难性的。
The regulations for water supply had nothing to do with the rhythms of the plants and animals who lived in the Everglades.
供水规定与生活在大沼泽地的植物和动物的节律无关。
Narrator: Already by the early 1970's, half of the natural Everglades had been lost to agriculture and development.
旁白：到 1970 年代初，一半的天然大沼泽地已经因农业和开发而消失。
Much of the rest, including the national park, was soon on the brink of full-scale ecological collapse.
包括国家公园在内的其余大部分地区很快就处于全面生态崩溃的边缘。
But for the first time in America's long relationship with the Everglades, there was a dawning awareness of what that collapse would mean—not simply to the alligators and the wading birds, but to the millions of residents of South Florida.
但在美国与大沼泽地的长期关系中，人们第一次开始意识到大沼泽地的崩溃意味着什么——不仅对鳄鱼和涉水鸟类，而且对南佛罗里达州的数百万居民也意味着什么。
As Marjory Stoneman Douglas put it to a reporter: "We're fighting like mad to save what's left.”
正如玛乔丽·斯通曼·道格拉斯 (Marjory Stoneman Douglas) 对记者所说：“我们正在疯狂地战斗，以拯救剩下的一切。”
Leslie Poole, Historian: We have a hard time believing that nature is in a good state without our manipulation, and we believe that we can make changes without affecting ourselves.
历史学家莱斯利·普尔（Leslie Poole）：我们很难相信，如果没有我们的操纵，自然会处于良好状态，但我们相信我们可以在不影响自己的情况下做出改变。
This is the great lesson of the Everglades—what we were doing was really upsetting a beautifully evolved system, and now, we’re gonna pay the consequences.
这是大沼泽地的伟大教训——我们所做的事情确实扰乱了一个完美进化的系统，现在，我们要付出后果。
Maggy Hurchalla, Local Historian: Nature has been very good at screaming its head off whenever we did the wrong thing, and we need to get better about not waiting ‘til it screams—to find a subtler way to solve the problem of living together with it.
当地历史学家玛吉·胡查拉 (Maggy Hurchala)：每当我们做错事时，大自然总是很擅长大声尖叫，我们需要更好地不要等到它尖叫，找到一种更微妙的方式来解决与它共同生活的问题。
We would lose south Florida if we lost the Everglades.
如果我们失去了大沼泽地，我们就会失去佛罗里达州南部。
Michael Grunwald, Journalist: Everybody’s looking to the Everglades to see if we can get it right.
迈克尔·格伦沃尔德（Michael Grunwald），记者：每个人都在关注大沼泽地，看看我们能否做对。
And it really is the most amazing test, not just of our science and of our planning and of our environmental knowledge, but it really is a moral test of whether we’re gonna be able to preserve a place for people alongside a unique creation of wilderness.
这确实是最令人惊奇的考验，不仅是对我们的科学、我们的规划和我们的环境知识的考验，而且也是对我们是否能够在独特的荒野创造的同时为人们保留一个地方的道德考验。
The surprisingly violent history of women's hats — and the women who set a new, humane trend in fashion.
女性帽子令人惊讶的暴力历史，以及在时尚界掀起新的、人性化潮流的女性。
The writer travels to a Florida lumber camp in search of “that which the soul lives by.”
作者前往佛罗里达州的一个伐木场寻找“灵魂赖以生存的东西”。
The Okeechobee Hurricane claimed one of the highest death tolls of any natural disasters in American history.
奥基乔比飓风是美国历史上死亡人数最高的自然灾害之一。
A reporter for The Miami Herald, Marjory Stoneman Douglas advocated for conservation.
《迈阿密先驱报》记者玛乔丽·斯通曼·道格拉斯倡导保护环境。
Hamilton Disston visioned the Everglades into dry land for cultivation.
汉密尔顿·迪斯顿 (Hamilton Disston) 设想将大沼泽地变成可供耕种的旱地。