Las Vegas: An Unconventional History

Nick Pileggi, Author : Las Vegas is the place where the steam gets let off.

Nick Pileggi，作者：拉斯维加斯是释放蒸汽的地方。

It's like a vacation, people can come here and feel they're living a naughtier life.

就像度假一样，人们来到这里可以感受到自己过着调皮的生活。

Marc Cooper, Author : Las Vegas is clockless and in that sense it does throw your whole rhythm off, and I think that that induces a kind of spacelessness, a weightlessness, a placelessness, so that Las Vegas becomes a world unto itself.

马克·库珀，作者：拉斯维加斯没有时钟，从这个意义上说，它确实打乱了你的整个节奏，我认为这会导致一种无空间、失重、无地点的感觉，从而使拉斯维加斯成为一个独立的世界。

Paul Goldberger, Architecture Critic : I mean this is after all a city in the desert, so Las Vegas suggests of course that the whole rest of the world is the desert and it is the oasis.

Paul Goldberger，建筑评论家：我的意思是，这毕竟是沙漠中的一座城市，所以拉斯维加斯当然意味着世界其他地方都是沙漠，而它是绿洲。

Dina Titus, State Senator : We don't want anything in Las Vegas that upsets the tourist, and if it's a touch of reality that is not pretty then we want to get rid of it.

迪娜·提图斯 (Dina Titus)，州参议员：我们不希望拉斯维加斯有任何让游客感到不安的事情，如果现实中有一点不漂亮，那么我们就想摆脱它。

You don't want to come in contact with reality when you're here for fantasy.

当你来这里是为了幻想时，你不想接触现实。

Dave Hickey, Art Critic : It's not a deeply introspective culture.

Dave Hickey，艺术评论家：这不是一种深刻内省的文化。

It's not about the interior life.

这与室内生活无关。

There is no gap between the thought and the act.

思想和行动之间没有差距。

In life it's like, oh, should I do this, should I do this, should, its like (snap)!

在生活中，就像，哦，我应该这样做，我应该这样做，应该，就像（啪）！

So that kind of hesitation and contemplation is not really a part of this culture.

所以这种犹豫和沉思并不是这种文化的一部分。

Elaine Wynn, Resort Director : Maybe there's some mystical thing about Las Vegas.

Elaine Wynn，度假村总监：也许拉斯维加斯有一些神秘的东西。

You know you'd like to think that man governs and dominates all the decisions that make history unfold, but clearly people must have been in the right place at the right time.

你知道你会认为人类统治并主导着历史展开的所有决定，但显然人们一定是在正确的时间出现在正确的地点。

Now, some could say it's just nature, I say it's luck.

现在，有些人可能会说这只是自然，我说这是运气。

Yvette Dixon, Maid, Bellagio : There's so much more to Vegas than the Strip.

Yvette Dixon，女佣，贝拉吉奥：维加斯的魅力远不止拉斯维加斯大道。

And when you get here and see what else they have you won't even come to the Strip.

当你到达这里并看到他们还有什么时，你甚至不会来拉斯维加斯大道。

Housekeeping.

家政。

Hello?

你好？

When I lived in California I didn't have many opportunities, but here they got so many hotels coming up, stores open up everyday, so you can get a job real easy.

当我住在加利福尼亚州时，我没有太多机会，但这里有很多酒店涌现，商店每天都在营业，所以你可以很容易找到工作。

Might not be the job you want but it'll be a job until you can get the job you want.

可能不是您想要的工作，但在您找到您想要的工作之前，它将是一份工作。

My brother moved here, to Las Vegas, so I would come here and visit him, and he said, you should come up here, it's easy to get a house up here and stuff.

我哥哥搬到了拉斯维加斯，所以我会来这里看望他，他说，你应该来这里，在这里买房子之类的很容易。

When you apply for it, you can move into a brand new house.

当你申请后，你就可以搬进全新的房子。

They build it the way you want, you know, the way you want them to, no money down.

他们按照你想要的方式建造它，你知道，按照你想要的方式建造，不需要首付。

Not a penny.

一分钱也没有。

Now that was for me!

现在那是给我的！

I was ready for that.

我已经准备好了。

So it's real nice, it's a two bedroom, two bathroom, but right now I'm thinking about getting a bigger house because I have three granddaughters now, so we're going to get a bigger place.

所以它真的很好，有两间卧室，两间浴室，但现在我正在考虑买一个更大的房子，因为我现在有三个孙女，所以我们要买一个更大的地方。

It's just like any other town, it has clubs, zoos.

它就像任何其他城镇一样，有俱乐部、动物园。

You wouldn't think Vegas would have a zoo, but they got a zoo.

你不会认为维加斯会有动物园，但他们有动物园。

We never drove around, when we come to Vegas we come straight down the boulevard and we stayed on the Strip and I never got out.

我们从来没有开车到处走走，当我们来到维加斯时，我们直接沿着林荫大道走，我们住在拉斯维加斯大道上，我从来没有下车过。

But you know once you gamble and lose your money, you go home, what else to stay for?

但你知道，一旦你赌博输了钱，你就回家了，还能留下来做什么？

But it's a real town!

但这是一个真正的城镇！

This is indeed the best move I ever made.

这确实是我做过的最好的举动。

I wasn't established in California.

我不是在加利福尼亚成立的。

I went there in 1970.

我1970年去过那里。

I never bought a house, I never owned anything, and when you get in your forties you have to own something, you know.

我从来没有买过房子，我从来没有拥有过任何东西，当你四十多岁的时候，你必须拥有一些东西，你知道。

So soon as I moved here, I got my jobs, got a new car, got a new truck, got a new house and I've only been here six years.

所以我一搬到这里，就找到了工作，买​​了一辆新车，一辆新卡车，一栋新房子，而我在这里只呆了六年。

I cleaned up!

我清理干净了！

David Thomson, Author : I think the hold of this place is it's on the edge and it needs to be.

作者 David Thomson：我认为这个地方的优势在于它处于边缘，而且需要处于边缘。

It's always been a place where you look out of your windows and see the sun rise or set on the desert, and know that there are snakes and serpents out there.

一直以来，你从窗外望去，都能看到太阳在沙漠中升起或落下，并且知道那里有蛇。

It's biblical in that way.

这是符合圣经的。

And if you can imagine the place devoid of all construction you would quickly say well, who on earth would have come here?

如果你能想象这个没有任何建筑的地方，你很快就会说，好吧，到底谁会来这里？

Because it's not a sensible place to build a city and I think there is still that feeling of kind of really surreal triumph over the elements, you know.

因为这不是一个建造城市的明智之地，而且我认为仍然有一种超现实的战胜自然的感觉，你知道。

Damn those elements.

该死的那些元素。

We can beat 'em.

我们可以打败他们。

Narrator : A more godforsaken locale could scarcely have been imagined.

旁白：很难想象还有比这更荒凉的地方了。

But in 1930, in the midst of the Great Depression, Southern Nevada's Black Canyon looked to many Americans like paradise.

但在 1930 年，正值大萧条时期，内华达州南部的黑峡谷对许多美国人来说就像天堂一样。

In just six months, some 42,000 men descended on that desolate spot, desperate to land one of the 5,000 construction jobs on the Boulder Dam -- also known as Hoover Dam -- a massive engineering project that would harness the mighty Colorado River for the benefit of a half dozen states throughout the Southwest.

在短短六个月内，大约 42,000 名男子涌入这个荒凉的地方，迫切希望获得博尔德水坝（也称为胡佛水坝）的 5,000 个建筑工作之一。这是一个大型工程项目，将利用强大的科罗拉多河造福整个西南部的六个州。

For four and a half long years, the dam workers would spend their days slaving between walls of stubborn hardrock that was literally too hot to be touched, and their nights penned up in Boulder City, a federal reservation with few of the comforts of home, and all of the same hometown rules -- no gambling, no prostitution, and absolutely no liquor.

在长达四年半的时间里，水坝工人们白天在坚硬的硬石墙之间辛勤劳作，这些墙实在太热了，无法触摸，晚上则关在博尔德城，这是一个联邦保留地，几乎没有像家一样的舒适，而且遵守着家乡的所有规定——不赌博，不卖淫，绝对不喝酒。

They lived for payday.

他们为发薪日而活。

With money in their pockets, they blew out of Boulder City as if it were on fire and headed straight for a dusty little town in the middle of the Mohave called Las Vegas.

口袋里揣着钱，他们如着火般从博尔德城飞出，直奔莫哈维中部一座尘土飞扬的小镇，名叫拉斯维加斯。

There, along a two-block stretch of Fremont Street, the town's main drag, and in the nearby red light district known as Block 16, they encountered one of the greatest concentrations of wide-open vice to be found anywhere in Prohibition America -- a bawdy, brightly-lit cluster of gambling dens and hot-sheet prostitution cribs and saloon after saloon after saloon.

在那里，沿着该镇的主要街道弗里蒙特街的两个街区，以及附近被称为“第 16 街区”的红灯区，他们遇到了美国禁酒令中最公开的色情场所之一——一群肮脏、灯火通明的赌博窝点、热床单卖淫婴儿床和一个又一个的酒吧。

Marc Cooper : They were living in these camps in this unforgiving desert in a state of real lockdown and let's face it, there is absolutely nothing to do.

马克·库珀：他们住在这片无情沙漠中的营地里，处于真正的封锁状态，让我们面对现实吧，他们绝对无事可做。

So you had two choices on payday in Boulder City: you could stay back in the camp and not drink and maybe play some cards with your friends and wait for night to come, or you could hit Fremont Street and gamble and drink and party until your check ran out.

因此，在博尔德城发薪日，你有两种选择：你可以留在营地，不喝酒，也许和你的朋友玩一些牌，等待夜晚的到来，或者你可以去弗里蒙特街赌博、喝酒和聚会，直到你的支票用完。

Now which one would you choose?

现在你会选择哪一个呢？

Narrator : Founded in 1905 as a railroad town, Las Vegas had enjoyed about a dozen years of prosperity, catering to passengers on layover and supplying the mining camps to the north and south.

旁白：拉斯维加斯成立于 1905 年，当时是一个铁路小镇，它经历了大约十几年的繁荣，为中途停留的乘客提供服务，并为北部和南部的采矿营地提供补给。

But its stint as a classic western boomtown had been short-lived.

但它作为典型的西部新兴城市的历史是短暂的。

In 1922, after a national strike idled the line through the town for nearly a month, the railroad moved its repairs shops and laid off hundreds of people.

1922 年，全国罢工导致穿过该镇的铁路线闲置近一个月后，铁路搬迁了维修店并解雇了数百人。

Many businesses went belly-up -- and some observers thought sure the place would wind up a ghost town.

许多企业都破产了——一些观察家认为这个地方肯定会变成一座鬼城。

In desperation, local boosters dreamed up wild schemes to keep the town afloat: a county fairground, dude ranches for prospective divorcées, and a nine-hole golf course that lacked only one key component -- grass.

在绝望中，当地的支持者们想出了一些疯狂的计划来维持小镇的生存：一个县集市、为未来离婚者提供的花哨牧场，以及一个只缺少一个关键组成部分——草地的九洞高尔夫球场。

But nothing really worked.

但没有什么真正起作用。

In the end, what saved Las Vegas was Nevada's historic tolerance for sin.

最终，拯救拉斯维加斯的是内华达州历史上对罪恶的宽容。

Eugene Moehring, Historian : Nevada lacked the resources that other states had; it was so arid that it lacked enough water to develop industries.

尤金·莫林（Eugene Moehring），历史学家：内华达州缺乏其他州拥有的资源；那里非常干旱，缺乏足够的水来发展工业。

In 1890, Nevada was the lowest populated state in the union.

1890 年，内华达州是联邦中人口最少的州。

It had less people than you could fit in Fenway Park in Boston.

这里的人数比波士顿芬威球场容纳的人数还要少。

Some states actually talked about Nevada becoming part of California and abolishing Nevada all together.

一些州实际上讨论了内华达州成为加利福尼亚州的一部分并一起废除内华达州。

And so in order to keep people here, and keep the economy going, none of the towns really abolished their frontier vices immediately.

因此，为了留住人们并保持经济发展，没有一个城镇真正立即废除边境恶习。

Dave Hickey : Well I mean the history of Nevada, I mean it's just a big desert, you know.

戴夫·希基：嗯，我指的是内华达州的历史，我的意思是它只是一个大沙漠，你知道。

It's an eight hour drive with nothing in between here and Reno, I mean it's really nowhere.

从这里到里诺需要八个小时的车程，我的意思是那里真的什么地方也没有。

And its whole tradition is doing illegal stuff.

它的整个传统就是做非法的事情。

You know, I mean, they do divorces.

你知道，我的意思是，他们离婚了。

They do prize fights.

他们进行拳击比赛。

They do all this stuff that was banned from Prohibition America.

他们做了所有这些美国禁酒令禁止的事情。

And so this became the way you make money in the desert.

于是这就成了你在沙漠里赚钱的方式。

Narrator : But it wasn't until early 1931 that Nevada had truly solidified its reputation as the nation's rogue state.

旁白：但直到 1931 年初，内华达才真正巩固了其作为国家流氓州的声誉。

At a time when games of chance were illegal everywhere else in the country -- and diehard gamblers had to play in back alleys and underground clubs -- Nevada lawmakers had taken the scandalous step of legalizing wide-open, casino-style gambling.

当机会游戏在全国其他地方都是非法的——顽固的赌徒不得不在后巷和地下俱乐部玩——内华达州立法者采取了将开放的赌场式赌博合法化的可耻步骤。

Inside of a few months, Las Vegas's Fremont Street was wall-to-wall gambling houses, and penny slot machines had been installed in nearly every gas station and grocery store in town.

几个月之内，拉斯维加斯的弗里蒙特街就变成了满墙的赌场，镇上几乎每个加油站和杂货店都安装了便士老虎机。

David Thomson : This allowed east coast America, academia, Washington, the churches, to say Sodom and Gomorrah, an enormous stain upon Nevada in the eyes of the east, which I think lingers to this day.

大卫·汤姆森：这使得美国东海岸、学术界、华盛顿、教会可以说所多玛和蛾摩拉是东方人眼中内华达州的一个巨大污点，我认为这种污点至今仍挥之不去。

Narrator : Legal gambling alone would likely never have brought people to a place as remote as Las Vegas.

旁白：仅靠合法赌博可能永远不会把人们带到像拉斯维加斯这样偏远的地方。

But with the pleasure-starved residents of Boulder City now just down the road, the desert outpost was about to make a killing.

但随着博尔德城的居民们饥肠辘辘，这个沙漠前哨即将大赚一笔。

Curiosity about the Dam boosted business even further.

对大坝的好奇进一步推动了业务的发展。

In 1932, some 100,000 people went to gawk at what was fast becoming known as the "eighth wonder of the world," and many paused en route to sample the unique attractions of Las Vegas.

1932 年，约有 10 万人前往参观这座迅速成为“世界第八大奇迹”的建筑，许多人在途中停下来欣赏拉斯维加斯的独特景点。

By that time, the opportunistic town had long since taken to billing itself as the "Gateway to the Boulder Dam."

到那时，这个机会主义小镇早已把自己标榜为“通往博尔德大坝的门户”。

Then, in 1935, President Franklin Roosevelt came to town -- and within a matter of months, the thousands of dam workers abruptly disappeared.

然后，1935 年，富兰克林·罗斯福总统来到该镇，几个月之内，数千名水坝工人突然失踪。

Fremont Street, one observer remembered, was suddenly "as empty as could be found."

一位观察家回忆道，弗里蒙特街突然“空无一人”。

Thanks mainly to the Dam, Las Vegans had discovered the immense potential for profit in America's forbidden desires -- but to fully exploit it, they would have to find a way to lure people to the desert.

主要归功于大坝，拉斯维加斯人发现了美国禁忌欲望中蕴含的巨大利润潜力，但要充分利用它，他们必须找到一种方法来引诱人们前往沙漠。

For now, the prospects seemed dim.

目前来看，前景似乎很暗淡。

As one writer put it: "The people were not here yesterday, and [they] will not be here tomorrow."

正如一位作家所说：“人们昨天不在这里，明天[他们]也不会在这里。”

Marc Cooper : There is a thread that runs through the whole history of this place as it relates to America and American culture.

马克·库珀：有一条线索贯穿了这个地方的整个历史，因为它与美国和美国文化有关。

It's a refuge, it's a place that you run to.

这是一个避难所，是一个你可以逃往的地方。

It's a place that you indulge yourself in.

这是一个让你沉迷其中的地方。

It's a way out of the incredible straight jacket that we find ourselves in, in our highly regimented and regulated lives.

这是摆脱我们所处的令人难以置信的直筒夹克，在我们高度管制和管制的生活中的一种出路。

Joe Frehner, Wedding Minister : A lot of people come to Vegas and get married because they start planning a wedding at home and the cost gets out of hand.

Joe Frehner，婚礼部长：很多人来到维加斯结婚，因为他们开始在家里筹划婚礼，而费用却失控了。

You might have cousin Charlie come along and say, oh you can't do it that way, you've gotta do it this and then grandma says, well you've gotta do this and they say forget it.

你可能会让表弟查理走过来说，哦，你不能那样做，你必须这样做，然后奶奶说，好吧，你必须这样做，他们说算了。

They get on an airplane, come to Vegas, and get married.

他们坐上飞机，来到维加斯，然后结婚了。

Wedding Minister : Will you love, honor, respect, and be faithful to him all the days of your life?

婚礼牧师：你一生都会爱他、尊敬他、尊重他并忠于他吗？

Wedding Minister : Marriage is an honorable estate instituted by God in the very beginning of man.

婚礼牧师：婚姻是上帝在人类诞生之初就设立的一项光荣财产。

It is therefore never to be entered into lightly, but reverently, sincerely, and in the love of God.

因此，决不能轻易地进入，而是要带着敬畏、真诚和对神的爱来进入。

Wedding Minister : I've been doing weddings ten years and I have done a little more than thirty-seven thousand.

婚礼部长：我办婚礼已经有十年了，已经办了三万七千多场婚礼。

Eighty-six is the most I've done in a day.

八十六是我一天完成的最多的一次。

I did one wedding on stage in a total nude joint.

我在舞台上举办了一场全裸婚礼。

I did a commitment ceremony one night for a man and his motorcycle.

一天晚上，我为一个男人和他的摩托车举行了一场承诺仪式。

I had a lady come in one day, had a couple of attendants with her were all dressed up, she wanted to marry herself.

有一天，我请了一位女士进来，身边有几个侍从，都盛装打扮，她想嫁给自己。

Wedding Minister : I notice one of you lives in New Orleans and one lives in Metairie.

婚礼部长：我注意到你们中的一位住在新奥尔良，一位住在梅泰里。

Wedding Minister : Metairie?

婚礼部长：梅泰里？

Are one of you going to move or are you gonna be happy?

你们中的一个人会搬家还是会高兴？

(laughter)

（笑声）

Wedding Minister : The wedding chapels are a business.

婚礼牧师：婚礼教堂是一门生意。

I think that some of the ministers who do weddings in this town confuse that with a ministry.

我认为一些在这个镇主持婚礼的牧师将其与事工混为一谈。

Now I roll with the punches.

现在我迎难而上。

Whatever these people want is OK with me.

无论这些人想要什么，我都可以。

Wedding Minister : Jergen, do you take Gudren to be your lawful wedded wife?

婚礼部长：Jergen，你愿意娶 Gudren 为你的合法妻子吗？

Translator : (translates the minister's words into German)

翻译：（将部长的话翻译成德语）

Wedding Minister : Gudren, do you take Jergen to be your lawful wedded husband?

婚礼部长：Gudren，你愿意接受 Jergen 作为你的合法丈夫吗？

Wedding Minister : By the powers vested in me by the state of Nevada, I pronounce you husband and wife.

婚礼部长：根据内华达州赋予我的权力，我宣布你们为夫妻。

Wedding Minister : You got a wedding down there?

婚礼部长：你们在那里举行婚礼吗？

OK, alright, hold on to them I'll be there as quickly as I can.

好吧，好吧，坚持住，我会尽快赶到的。

I think marriage is great.

我认为婚姻是伟大的。

Narrator : The British writer Somerset Maugham once described Monte Carlo, the glamorous gambling resort on the French Riviera, as "a sunny place for shady people." By the early 1940's, the same might have been said of Las Vegas.

旁白：英国作家萨默塞特·毛姆曾将法国里维埃拉迷人的赌博胜地蒙特卡洛描述为“阴暗人的阳光明媚的地方”。到了 20 世纪 40 年代初，拉斯维加斯也可能出现同样的情况。

The first big wave of so-called "sporting life" characters had arrived back in 1938, after a reform-minded mayor ran them out of Los Angeles.

1938 年，第一波所谓的“运动生活”人物到来，当时一位有改革精神的市长将他们赶出了洛杉矶。

An easy day-trip from the City of Angels, Las Vegas had become the obvious destination for the scores of illegal gambling operators and cardsharps and dirty cops on the lam.

从天使之城出发，只需一日游即可轻松抵达，拉斯维加斯已成为众多非法赌博经营者、牌手和在逃的肮脏警察的明显目的地。

Eugene Moehring : They gravitated to the city because they had the expertise.

Eugene Moehring：他们被这座城市所吸引，因为他们拥有专业知识。

They knew more than many of the local yokels who were running the small casinos of how to make customers happy, how to give comps, when to do it.

他们比许多经营小赌场的当地乡巴佬更了解如何让顾客满意、如何给予补偿以及何时给予。

And they brought a real expertise in casino management to Las Vegas.

他们为拉斯维加斯带来了赌场管理方面的真正专业知识。

Narrator : Now came one of the more infamous denizens of L.A.'s underworld, a dapper and often volatile mobster by the name of Benjamin "Bugsy" Siegel.

旁白：现在出现了洛杉矶黑社会中最臭名昭著的人物之一，他是一位衣冠楚楚、脾气暴躁的暴徒，名叫本杰明·“巴格西”·西格尔。

A key player in a national crime organization known as the Syndicate, Siegel, at 36, was arguably one of the most crooked entrepreneurs of his time.

36 岁的西格尔是一个名为“辛迪加”的国家犯罪组织的关键人物，可以说是他那个时代最不诚实的企业家之一。

He'd spent most of the 1930's in Hollywood, overseeing L.A.'s half-a-million-dollar-a-day bookmaking enterprise and paling around with studio executives and movie stars on the side.

1930 年代的大部分时间他都在好莱坞度过，负责管理洛杉矶每天收入 50 万美元的博彩企业，并与电影公司高管和电影明星打交道。

But when Nevada became the only state in the Union to legalize the racewire, a service that relayed thoroughbred racing results to off-track bookies across the country, Syndicate boss Meyer Lansky sent Siegel to take over the action in Las Vegas.

但当内华达州成为美国唯一一个将赛马比赛合法化的州（一项将纯种马赛马比赛结果转发给全国各地赛马博彩公司的服务）时，辛迪加老板迈耶·兰斯基派西格尔接管拉斯维加斯的比赛。

Eugene Moehring : Bugsy Siegel was sent up to Las Vegas in 1941 with Moe Sedway to eliminate James Ragan who owned a racewire here that the mob did not control.

尤金·莫林 (Eugene Moehring)：1941 年，巴格西·西格尔 (Bugsy Siegel) 与莫·塞德韦 (Moe Sedway) 一起被派往拉斯维加斯，消灭詹姆斯·拉根 (James Ragan)，后者在这里拥有一条不受暴民控制的电线。

These guys came here and they created a rival race wire.

这些家伙来到这里，他们创造了一条竞争性的竞赛线。

They charged lower prices and eventually they got rid of Ragan by poisoning him.

他们收取较低的价格，最终通过毒害拉根除掉了他。

Once they had eliminated Ragan, it was obvious to Siegel that there were real possibilities here for the mob.

一旦他们消灭了拉根，西格尔就清楚地意识到，这群暴徒确实有机会。

Narrator : Las Vegas was still basically a one-horse town -- a train depot and a row of gaudy gambling joints, surrounded by thousands of acres of undeveloped desert.

旁白：拉斯维加斯基本上仍然是一个独马小镇——一个火车站和一排华丽的赌场，周围是数千英亩未开发的沙漠。

But there was every reason to believe the place was headed for a spectacular boom.

但我们有充分的理由相信这个地方即将迎来惊人的繁荣。

Two new defense installations had been recently situated on the outskirts of town, which together had brought thousands of people and their payrolls into Las Vegas's orbit.

最近，两座新的防御设施位于城郊，这些设施将数千人和他们的工资带入了拉斯维加斯的轨道。

And now that the country was at war, hordes of impatient couples were already stampeding over the border into Nevada, where state law allowed them to tie the knot without waiting for the blood tests required back home.

现在国家正处于战争状态，成群结队的不耐烦的夫妇已经越过边境进入内华达州，该州法律允许他们无需等待回家进行血液检查即可结婚。

Since Las Vegas also performed quickie divorces -- and already ranked as one of the country's top spots to dump a spouse -- Siegel figured the casinos on Fremont Street would soon be packed to the rafters.

由于拉斯维加斯也发生过快速离婚的情况，并且已经被列为全国最容易抛弃配偶的地点之一，西格尔认为弗里蒙特街的赌场很快就会挤满人。

If the Syndicate wanted to get in on the ground floor, he told Lansky, now was the time.

他告诉兰斯基，如果辛迪加想进入一楼，现在就是时候了。

Over the next several years, with Lanksy's blessing, Siegel sank mob money into a handful of gambling halls on Fremont Street, before buying the El Cortez outright in 1945.

在接下来的几年里，在兰克西的支持下，西格尔将黑帮的钱投入了弗里蒙特街的几家赌场，然后于 1945 年彻底买下了埃尔科尔特斯赌场。

The official owner was a front man.

正式所有者是一名前台人员。

Behind him was a roster of investors that read like a Who's Who of organized crime -- men who got their share of the profits from cash skimmed off the top.

他身后是一份投资者名单，读起来就像有组织犯罪的名人录——这些人从顶层掠夺的现金中获得了自己的份额。

Marc Cooper : There's no taxes on a skim and there's no bookkeeping on a skim.

马克·库珀：撇脂不征税，撇脂也不记账。

It is your up front money.

这是你的预付款。

When the mob controlled one of these casinos they had their operatives who would effectively supervise what's called the hard count room.

当暴徒控制其中一个赌场时，他们的特工将有效地监督所谓的硬计数室。

Which is where you count up the money and you knew that if Bob or Joe was the guy who would come in literally with a sack or with a box and pick up some money and walk out the door, well nobody saw anything.

这就是你数钱的地方，你知道如果鲍勃或乔是那个拿着麻袋或盒子进来并拿起一些钱然后走出门的人，那么没有人看到任何东西。

Nick Pileggi : A lot of money came out of those places and, you would know, there were people who had the breakdown of how much, this goes to Chicago, this goes to Milwaukee, this goes here.

尼克·皮勒吉：很多钱从这些地方流出，你会知道，有人详细列出了多少钱，这些钱流向芝加哥，这些流向密尔沃基，这些流向这里。

You knew to the penny where that money was going and who was getting it.

你一分钱一分货地知道这些钱的去向以及谁得到了它。

Narrator : The scheme was so simple and so profitable that Siegel was soon pushing the Syndicate to make a more sizable investment, this time in a risky new development roughly three miles from the center of town, on frontage bordering Highway 91, the two-lane road to Los Angeles.

旁白：这个计划如此简单，利润如此之高，以至于西格尔很快就推动辛迪加进行更大规模的投资，这次是在距市中心约三英里、紧邻 91 号高速公路（通往洛杉矶的两车道公路）的临街处进行一项充满风险的新开发项目。

Out there in the barren desert, Siegel told his associates, they could open a place that would be beyond the city limits and the reach of the city slot tax.

西格尔告诉他的同事们，在贫瘠的沙漠中，他们可以开设一个超出城市范围和城市老虎机税范围的地方。

Better still, there was space enough for a full-fledged resort -- an upscale joint with a casino and a swimming pool and a parking lot.

更好的是，这里有足够的空间建造一个成熟的度假村——一个带有赌场、游泳池和停车场的高档度假村。

Two sprawling motor inns, the El Rancho Vegas and the Last Frontier, had already been built on that model, and so far, they'd been doing a respectable business.

两家规模庞大的汽车旅馆，El Rancho Vegas 和 Last Frontier，已经按照这种模式建造起来，到目前为止，他们的生意一直很不错。

Now, Siegel's longtime acquaintance Billy Wilkerson, the publisher of the Hollywood Reporter, was trying to raise money for a third -- a glamorous place like the nightclubs he owned on the Sunset Strip.

现在，西格尔的老熟人、《好莱坞报道》的出版商比利·威尔克森正试图为第三家筹集资金——一个像他在日落大道上拥有的夜总会那样迷人的地方。

Nick Pileggi : Ben Siegel then wound up looking at Vegas and he said the war is over, it's 1945 and '46.

Nick Pileggi：Ben Siegel 最后看了一眼维加斯，他说战争已经结束了，现在是 1945 年和 46 年了。

America wants to party.

美国想要参加派对。

Gotta remember the country had been through a horrendous war.

必须记住，这个国家经历了一场可怕的战争。

America was looking for a good time.

美国正在寻找美好时光。

He said let's invest money.

他说我们去投资吧。

Narrator : Siegel's associates ponied up 1.5 million -- enough to buy a two-thirds stake in Wilkerson's project.

旁白：西格尔的同事出资了 150 万美元——足以购买威尔克森项目三分之二的股份。

The plan now, Siegel told a reporter, was to build "the goddamn biggest, fanciest gaming casino and hotel you bastards ever seen in your whole lives." He would call it "The Flamingo."

西格尔告诉记者，现在的计划是建造“你们这些混蛋一生中见过的最大、最豪华的赌场和酒店。”他将其称为“火烈鸟”。

Nick Pileggi : Before Benny Siegel opened The Flamingo, the look of the casinos in Las Vegas were all cowboy casinos.

Nick Pileggi：在Benny Siegel 开设The Flamingo 之前，拉斯维加斯赌场的面貌都是牛仔赌场。

They were western.

他们是西方人。

There was sawdust on the floor.

地板上有锯末。

Benny Siegel comes in, he creates an urban Miami beach hotel in the middle of the desert.

本尼·西格尔 (Benny Siegel) 进来了，他在沙漠中央创建了一家城市迈阿密海滩酒店。

Suddenly when you walk into a casino, you're not met by a guy with a cowboy hat and a six shooter and cowboy chaps, no you're met by a guy in a tuxedo, you're met by a guy that looks like Dean Martin.

突然间，当你走进赌场时，迎接你的不是一个戴着牛仔帽、六枪手和牛仔小伙子的家伙，不是一个穿着燕尾服的家伙，而是一个看起来像迪恩·马丁的家伙。

Narrator : With its swank atmosphere, wall-to-wall carpeting and a new-fangled air cooling system, The Flamingo would eventually become a favorite hot spot for the Hollywood crowd.

旁白：凭借其奢华的氛围、满墙的地毯和新型的空气冷却系统，火烈鸟最终成为好莱坞观众最喜欢的热点。

But by the time construction was finally completed, in the spring of 1947, Siegel had overrun his budget by four and a half million dollars, and the Syndicate's mood had soured.

但到 1947 年春天，工程终于竣工时，西格尔的预算已经超出了四百五十万美元，辛迪加的心情也变坏了。

A few months later, Siegel was gunned down in his girlfriend's Beverly Hills home and Lansky's deputies took over The Flamingo for the Syndicate.

几个月后，西格尔在女友位于比佛利山庄的家中被枪杀，兰斯基的副手为辛迪加接管了火烈鸟酒店。

By then, the word on Las Vegas was out, and wise guys from all over the country had already begun decamping to the desert: from Phoenix, Syndicate bookmaker Gus Greenbaum; from Minneapolis, local mob boss and rum-runner Davie Berman; and from Cleveland, the one-time kingpin of the Mayfield Road Gang, Moe Dalitz.

那时，关于拉斯维加斯的消息已经传出，来自全国各地的智者已经开始逃往沙漠：来自凤凰城的辛迪加博彩公司格斯·格林鲍姆（Gus Greenbaum）；来自凤凰城的辛迪加博彩公司格斯·格林鲍姆（Gus Greenbaum）；来自菲尼克斯的辛迪加博彩公司格斯·格林鲍姆（Gus Greenbaum）；来自全国各地的智者。来自明尼阿波利斯的当地黑帮老大兼朗姆酒走私者戴维·伯曼 (Davie Berman)；还有来自克利夫兰的梅菲尔德路帮曾经的头目莫·达利茨（Moe Dalitz）。

Nick Pileggi : When these guys came here it was like a morality or ethical car wash.

Nick Pileggi：当这些人来到这里时，就像一场道德或道德洗车。

You came here, you were cleansed of your sins, you were now legitimate and legal.

你来到这里，你的罪孽被洗净了，你现在是合法的、合法的了。

I didn't care what you did, you got a wash.

我不在乎你做了什么，你该洗漱了。

John L.

约翰·L。

Smith, Writer : Las Vegas of fifty years ago was an island, a desert island, an outpost of hedonistic excess, of vice.

史密斯，作家：五十年前的拉斯维加斯是一座岛屿，一座荒岛，是享乐主义过度和罪恶的前哨。

Everywhere else in America, every four years when the district attorney needed to get reelected, he busted the gambling dens, but here was this island where bad could become good, where illegitimate could become legitimate.

在美国其他地方，地方检察官每四年需要连任时，他就会捣毁赌博窝点，但在这个岛上，坏事可以变成好事，非法行为可以变成合法的。

Brian Greenspun, Editor : They came out here and the shackles came off.

布莱恩·格林斯潘（Brian Greenspun），编辑：他们来到这里，枷锁被解除了。

They could do in the sunshine what they could only do in the shade where they came from.

他们可以在阳光下做那些只能在他们来自的阴凉处做的事情。

And they said to themselves, I know they said it, this is a place to make our home, this is a place to raise our families.

他们对自己说，我知道他们说过，这是我们安家的地方，这是养家糊口的地方。

Narrator : As one resident put it, Las Vegas was now home "to more socially-prominent hoodlums per square foot than any other community in the world."

旁白：正如一位居民所说，拉斯维加斯现在“每平方英尺的社会知名流氓数量比世界上任何其他社区都多”。

It was also fast becoming the ideal front for organized crime, as new casinos like the Thunderbird and the Desert Inn sprouted up on Highway 91, and the cash from the skim found its way into the pockets of mobsters as far away as Chicago and Miami.

随着 Thunderbird 和 Desert Inn 等新赌场在 91 号高速公路上如雨后春笋般涌现，这里也迅速成为有组织犯罪的理想前沿，而从芝加哥和迈阿密掠夺的现金也流入了远在芝加哥和迈阿密的犯罪分子的口袋。

Nevada authorities could do little about it.

内华达州当局对此无能为力。

Marc Cooper : Gambling was so stigmatized and was morally impure that the only way you could finance this was with illegal funds.

马克·库珀：赌博受到如此的侮辱，而且在道德上也是不纯洁的，以至于你唯一的融资方式就是使用非法资金。

So the gambling interest and the mob interest were intertwined with the establishment.

因此，赌博利益和暴民利益与当权派交织在一起。

Everybody from the PTA, to the Mormons, to the businessmen, they saw nothing, they heard nothing, and they did nothing and the money was rolling in.

从 PTA 到摩门教徒，再到商人，他们什么也没看到，什么也没听到，什么也没做，钱却滚滚而来。

Narrator : For Nevada, it was a devil's bargain.

旁白：对于内华达州来说，这是一笔魔鬼般的交易。

Were it not for its shady citizens, Las Vegas may well have shrunk back into the desert.

如果不是其阴暗的公民，拉斯维加斯很可能已经缩回到沙漠中。

But a thriving gambling town run by reputed mobsters was not likely to earn much respect in the centers of national power.

但一个由臭名昭著的黑帮经营的繁荣的赌博小镇不太可能在国家权力中心赢得太多尊重。

The question now was not if Washington would come calling, but when.

现在的问题不是华盛顿是否会打电话来，而是何时来。

Dina Titus : A lot of people who settled here had a real frontier mentality.

迪娜·提图斯：很多在这里定居的人都有着真正的边疆心态。

So that attitude of don't regulate me, don't tell me what to do, don't fence me in, especially if you're the federal government still prevails today.

因此，这种不管制我、不告诉我该做什么、不把我围起来的态度，特别是如果你是联邦政府的话，今天仍然盛行。

Steve Werk, Cowboy : When we first moved here you could ride out my back door and ride five hundred miles north and only cross two paved roads.

Steve Werk，牛仔：当我们第一次搬到这里时，你可以骑出我的后门，向北行驶五百英里，只穿过两条铺好的道路。

Used to feel like it was pretty wide open, you knew your neighbors, everybody talked to each other.

过去感觉这里很开放，你认识你的邻居，每个人都互相交谈。

The kids were always out hunting rabbits, hunting coyotes, they would ride clear back to Sheep Mountain, and there are some old Indian caves back there and they'd spend the day and then come home.

孩子们总是出去打兔子、打土狼，他们会骑马回到羊山，那里有一些古老的印第安洞穴，他们会在那里度过一天，然后回家。

You didn't have to worry about where they were, who they were with because you knew everybody in the neighborhood.

你不必担心他们在哪里，和谁在一起，因为你认识附近的每个人。

There was only twenty families in the five mile area.

五英里范围内只有二十户人家。

It was a rural way of life and we're trying to maintain that in this little block right here, but they're slowly chipping away.

这是一种乡村生活方式，我们试图在这个小街区里维持这种生活方式，但它们正在慢慢消失。

If they would have had some kind of planned growth this could have been a good thing, but when you run out of water and you run out of usable land and you start crowding people together just for the sole purpose of making an extra buck instead of trying to develop a quality of life or a type of life that people want then it becomes something entirely different.

如果他们有某种有计划的增长，这可能是一件好事，但是当你耗尽水和可用土地，你开始将人们聚集在一起，只是为了赚额外的钱，而不是试图发展人们想要的生活质量或生活方式，那么情况就变得完全不同了。

More and more of my neighbors are moving, more and more people are putting their houses up for sale.

越来越多的邻居搬家，越来越多的人出售他们的房子。

Vegas has changed.

维加斯已经改变了。

Archival Newsreel : The nation's underworld catches the unwelcome spotlight of publicity as the Senate's Investigation Sub-Committee begins new hearings on crime.

档案新闻片：随着参议院调查小组委员会开始新的犯罪听证会，这个国家的黑社会成为公众关注的焦点。

Narrator : For the men who ran Las Vegas, periodic scrapes with the law were a fact of life.

旁白：对于那些经营拉斯维加斯的人来说，周期性的触犯法律是生活中的一个事实。

So none were particularly alarmed when, in the spring of 1950, the U.S. Senate launched a major investigation into organized crime.

因此，当 1950 年春美国参议院对有组织犯罪展开重大调查时，没有人感到特别震惊。

Word had it that the Senate Committee was slated to take testimony from some 800 witnesses in 14 American cities.

有消息称，参议院委员会计划听取美国 14 个城市约 800 名证人的证词。

Not surprisingly, Las Vegas was high on the list.

毫不奇怪，拉斯维加斯名列前茅。

As the more seasoned players in town saw it, there were a variety of possible outcomes: the Senate hearings could force greater regulation of the casinos or increase the taxes on their profits or even, God forbid, actually shut Las Vegas down.

正如镇上经验丰富的玩家所看到的那样，可能的结果有很多种：参议院听证会可能会迫使对赌场进行更严格的监管，或者增加对赌场的利润征税，甚至，上帝保佑，实际上会关闭拉斯维加斯。

But many took comfort from the fact that the probe was being headed by Estes Kefauver -- a man whose regular tirades against gambling didn't keep him from chalking up near-perfect attendance at the racetrack.

但令许多人感到欣慰的是，该调查由埃斯蒂斯·凯福弗（Estes Kefauver）领导，他经常对赌博进行长篇大论，但这并没有阻止他在赛马场上取得近乎完美的出席率。

Archival Newsreel : The Kefauver crime committee meets the press in Washington.

档案新闻片：Kefauver 犯罪委员会在华盛顿与媒体见面。

Estes Kefauver : Organized crime does operate on a syndicated basis across state lines in the United States.

Estes Kefauver：在美国，有组织犯罪确实是跨州组织的。

That is a much bigger, more sinister and a larger operation than we had ever suspected.'

这是一个比我们想象的更大、更险恶、规模更大的行动。”

Eugene Moehring : Kefauver was a senator from Tennessee, a Democrat from the Bible Belt.

尤金·莫林：凯福弗是一位来自田纳西州的参议员，来自圣经地带的民主党人。

He was an opportunist and he saw bashing Vegas and attacking the mob as a way to perhaps get the Democratic nomination in 1952.

他是一个机会主义者，他认为猛烈抨击维加斯和攻击暴民可能是获得 1952 年民主党提名的一种方式。

Narrator : Throughout the summer and early fall, the publicity surrounding the nationally televised proceedings forced the closure of illegal gambling dens and other mob-run enterprises across the country.

旁白：整个夏天和初秋，围绕全国电视转播的诉讼程序的宣传迫使全国各地的非法赌博窝点和其他黑帮经营的企业被关闭。

Las Vegans, meanwhile, awaited their turn with amusement.

与此同时，拉斯维加斯人则饶有兴趣地等待轮到他们。

As one mobster's daughter remembered it: "Privately, my father and his friends joked that the [Committee] would never shut them down.

一位黑帮分子的女儿回忆道：“私下里，我父亲和他的朋友们开玩笑说，[委员会]永远不会关闭他们。

They had never had any respect for politicians since they had made a career of bribing them."

自从他们以贿赂政治家为职业以来，他们从来没有对政治家有过任何尊重。”

Some in town even saw fit to lay odds on the outcome of the hearings.

城里的一些人甚至认为有必要对听证会的结果下注。

Almost no one put their money on Kefauver.

几乎没有人把钱押在 Kefauver 身上。

The Senate Committee spent hours taking testimony from local witnesses -- and uncovered no hard evidence of wrongdoing whatsoever.

参议院委员会花了几个小时听取当地证人的证词，但没有发现任何不当行为的确凿证据。

The casinos in town were legal and the operators had the full sanction of the state.

镇上的赌场是合法的，经营者得到了国家的全面批准。

In the end, the entire hearing came off as an advertisement for America's unofficial mobster metropolis.

最终，整个听证会就像是美国非官方黑帮大都市的广告。

John L.

约翰·L。

Smith : His intention was to drive these scoundrels underground, to put a little light on them and watch them scatter.

史密斯：他的目的是把这些恶棍赶到地下，给他们点一点光，然后看着他们四散。

Well some of them did scatter, they scattered from the east and from the south, and they came out to Las Vegas.

好吧，他们中的一些人确实分散了，他们从东部和南部分散，然后来到了拉斯维加斯。

Marc Cooper : He created a gangster Diaspora.

马克·库珀：他创造了一个黑帮 Diaspora。

All of the sudden, gangsters, illegal gamblers from bingo parlors and roulette dens, they had nowhere to go, they're feeling the heat.

突然之间，来自宾果游戏厅和轮盘赌馆的黑帮、非法赌徒，他们无处可去，他们感受到了压力。

Meyer Lansky and Bugsy Siegel had already gotten a foothold here, Moe Dalitz was already here and they said 'ya know what, we're going to Las Vegas.' So really it was the organized drive to push gambling out of American life that created the biggest gambling center in the world.

迈耶·兰斯基 (Meyer Lansky) 和巴格西·西格尔 (Bugsy Siegel) 已经在这里站稳了脚跟，莫·达利茨 (Moe Dalitz) 也在这里，他们说：“你知道吗，我们要去拉斯维加斯。”因此，实际上，正是有组织的努力将赌博逐出美国人的生活，才创造了世界上最大的赌博中心。

Narrator : "I love that man Kefauver," cracked one recent arrival.

旁白：“我爱那个叫凯福弗的人，”一位新来的人说道。

"When he drove me out of an illegal casino operation in Florida and into a legalized operation in Nevada, he made me a respectable, law-abiding citizen and a millionaire."

“当他把我从佛罗里达州的一家非法赌场运营商赶到内华达州的一家合法赌场时，他让我成为了一个受人尊敬、守法的公民和百万富翁。”

Las Vegas had managed to survive the federal government's scrutiny.

拉斯维加斯成功地躲过了联邦政府的审查。

But it still needed to make its mix of sin and syndicated crime appealing to Main Street, U.S.A.

但它仍然需要使其混合犯罪和集团犯罪对美国大街有吸引力。

John L.

约翰·L。

Smith : Las Vegas has been a place apart, it's been other, it's been outlaw.

史密斯：拉斯维加斯是一个与众不同的地方，它是另外一个地方，它是一个不法之地。

And it actually fought against that image, that reputation, initially trying to sell itself as, we're just like everyone else, and, boy don't we have a lot of chapels and churches?

它实际上与这种形象、那种声誉作斗争，最初试图推销自己，因为我们就像其他人一样，而且，我们不是有很多教堂和教堂吗？

But this has always been crossroader country.

但这一直是十字路口的国家。

Colette Diamond, Real Estate Agent : I was in music for twenty-five years, my family.

Colette Diamond，房地产经纪人：我的家人，我从事音乐二十五年了。

I'm one of ten, and my family was in show business.

我是十人之一，我的家人都从事演艺事业。

We were the Louisiana Family Band.

我们是路易斯安那家庭乐队。

I remember I was really young and we used to travel all the time, we didn't even go to school.

我记得我很小的时候，我们经常去旅行，我们甚至不去上学。

We would perform six nights a week and we lived in hotels.

我们每周演出六个晚上，住在酒店里。

Colette Diamond : It was the way I grew up, and we were all together, we would play cards in the back of the truck and, you know, and we'd sing all the time and that's just how life was.

科莱特戴蒙德：这就是我成长的方式，我们都在一起，我们会在卡车后面打牌，你知道，我们会一直唱歌，这就是生活。

I always wanted a home though.

但我一直想要一个家。

Colette Diamond : That's how we came to Vegas, we were performing.

Colette Diamond：我们就是这样来到维加斯的，我们就是这样表演的。

And then I got into cocktails.

然后我开始喝鸡尾酒。

Colette Diamond : I was you know, schlepping cocktails and he was valeting and we would meet at home and he'd say, "OK!

科莱特·戴蒙德（Colette Diamond）：你知道，我当时正在端着鸡尾酒，他正在做代客泊车，我们会在家里见面，他会说：“好吧！

We got a hundred and fifty dollars!" And we had a little bucket, I swear to you a little bucket, we'd put it in and we'd kinda cry to each other, how it's kinda tough, you know?

我们有一百五十块钱！”我们有一个小桶，我向你发誓，有一个小桶，我们把它放进去，我们会互相哭泣，这有点艰难，你知道吗？

So we'd put our money in our bucket and we saved up.

所以我们把钱放进桶里存起来。

Fifteen thousand dollars, just like that.

一万五千块钱，就这样。

Colette Diamond : We just did it one drink at a time.

Colette Diamond：我们一次只喝一杯。

So we did that until I came home one day and my daughter had on my cocktail outfit and she says, "Mommy I want to be just like you." So I started real estate school the next day.

所以我们就这样做了，直到有一天我回家，我女儿穿上了我的鸡尾酒会服装，她说：“妈妈，我想成为像你一样的人。”所以第二天我就开始了房地产学校。

(to a client) I think this fits right into what we're looking to accomplish.

（对客户）我认为这正好符合我们想要实现的目标。

We're trying to change the look of the Las Vegas market.

我们正在努力改变拉斯维加斯市场的面貌。

A nice community park, obviously see the gorgeous, incredible mountain views there.

一个漂亮的社区公园，显然可以看到那里美丽、令人难以置信的山景。

Colette Diamond : This was built in 2003.

Colette Diamond：这是 2003 年建造的。

Colette Diamond : We bought our first home, it was out in the boonies, it was fourteen hundred square feet.

Colette Diamond：我们买了我们的第一套房子，它位于郊区，面积为 1400 平方英尺。

We sold it, we doubled our money.

我们卖掉了它，我们的钱翻了一番。

The next one we did we quadrupled our money and I just kept saying, "I know I can do this!" I see right now I sell million dollar houses to people who ten years ago were just like me.

下一次，我们的钱增加了四倍，我一直说：“我知道我能做到！”我发现现在我把价值百万美元的房子卖给了十年前和我一样的人。

And in this community and this kind of an environment, it's given us that dream.

在这个社区和这样的环境中，它给了我们这个梦想。

I never could have done this, for us, anyplace else.

无论是在其他地方，我都无法为我们做到这一点。

And music brought us here, and here we are.

音乐把我们带到了这里，我们就在这里。

If somebody would have ever said, my daughter would go to Our Lady of Las Vegas or that on her birth certificate it would say Las Vegas, I never in my wildest dreams would've thought that, cause you think of Sin City.

如果有人说过，我的女儿会去拉斯维加斯圣母院，或者她的出生证明上会写着拉斯维加斯，我在最疯狂的梦想中也不会想到这一点，因为你会想到罪恶之城。

When we first decided to get off the road and raise our baby here I said, "How can we live in Las Vegas, we're raising a little girl?" He says, "You know what, I have a vision that we can have our life here and we can be in it but not of it."

当我们第一次决定离开公路并在这里抚养我们的孩子时，我说：“我们要抚养一个小女孩，怎么能住在拉斯维加斯呢？”他说：“你知道吗，我有一个愿景，我们可以在这里生活，我们可以身处其中，但不能属于其中。”

Archival Newsreel : FALL, 1950.

档案新闻片：1950 年秋季。

A fierce international war rips through a small country called Korea.

一场激烈的国际战争席卷了一个名叫韩国的小国。

Russia has successfully detonated an atomic bomb.

俄罗斯成功引爆了原子弹。

Now more than ever before, we need to develop and produce a greater number and variety, and possibly even more powerful atomic weapons.

现在，我们比以往任何时候都更需要开发和生产数量更多、种类更多、甚至威力更强大的原子武器。

And like all new ideas and weapons, new atomic bombs must first be tested.

与所有新想法和武器一样，新原子弹必须首先进行测试。

But where?

但在哪里呢？

Narrator : Just before dawn on January 27th, 1951, a blinding white flash lit up the Las Vegas sky.

旁白：1951 年 1 月 27 日黎明前，一道耀眼的白色闪光照亮了拉斯维加斯的天空。

Minutes later, there was a thundering blast that left a trail of broken glass from Fremont Street clear out to the Strip.

几分钟后，一声雷鸣般的爆炸，留下了一条碎玻璃痕迹，从弗里蒙特街一直延伸到拉斯维加斯大道。

Atomic bomb testing at the Nevada proving facility had begun.

内华达州试验设施的原子弹试验已经开始。

Over the next twelve years, 120 nuclear devices -- an average of one every five weeks -- would be detonated above ground in the Mohave desert, just 65 miles from downtown Las Vegas.

在接下来的 12 年里，120 个核装置——平均每五周一个——将在距拉斯维加斯市中心仅 65 英里的莫哈维沙漠地面上引爆。

"We have glorified gambling, divorces and doubtful pleasures to get our name before the rest of the country," wrote Las Vegas Sun publisher Hank Greenspun.

《拉斯维加斯太阳报》出版商汉克·格林斯潘写道：“我们美化赌博、离婚和可疑的快乐，以便在全国其他地区之前出名。”

"Now we can become a part of the most important work carried on by our country today.

“现在我们可以成为我们国家当今最重要工作的一部分。

We have found a reason for our existence as a community."

我们找到了作为一个社区存在的理由。”

Dina Titus : Having the atomic testing program here gave us a certain amount of legitimacy.

Dina Titus：这里的原子测试计划给了我们一定的合法性。

Up until that point we were just a spot in the desert, we were prostitution, we were gambling.

在那之前，我们只是沙漠中的一个地方，我们卖淫，我们赌博。

Suddenly we were helping to win the Cold War and I think people could grab a hold of that because it was a good thing to do for democracy.

突然之间，我们正在帮助赢得冷战，我认为人们可以抓住这一点，因为这对民主来说是一件好事。

Narrator : At a moment when the word "atomic" was cropping up on signs all over the country, when Boy Scouts were laboring to earn their "atomic energy" merit badges and Hollywood was putting out films about nuclear espionage, Las Vegas had the singular distinction of being the only city in America with a front row seat at ground zero.

旁白：当“原子”这个词突然出现在全国各地的标志上，当童子军努力赢得“原子能”功绩徽章，当好莱坞上映有关核间谍的电影时，拉斯维加斯有着独特的特色，它是美国唯一一个在零号地拥有前排座位的城市。

In the hands of Las Vegas's publicity machine, the spectre of nuclear annihilation now became spectacle.

在拉斯维加斯的宣传机器手中，核毁灭的幽灵现在变成了奇观。

The Chamber of Commerce put out a series of press releases promoting the explosions as entertainment, churned out up-to-date shot calendars to help tourists schedule their trips and distributed road maps that highlighted the best vantage points around the Test Site.

商会发布了一系列新闻稿，宣传爆炸是一种娱乐活动，制作了最新的拍摄日历来帮助游客安排行程，并分发了路线图，突出显示了试验场周围的最佳观察点。

Casinos, meanwhile, hosted "bomb parties" that culminated with a predawn blast, and offered limousine service to guests hoping to get as close to ground zero as possible.

与此同时，赌场举办了“炸弹派对”，以黎明前的爆炸达到高潮，并为希望尽可能接近归零地的客人提供豪华轿车服务。

David Thomson : The bombs went off at dawn, wonderful spectacle, and people would go up to the roofs and they'd watch with glee.

大卫·汤姆森：炸弹在黎明时分爆炸，场面非常壮观，人们会爬到屋顶上兴高采烈地观看。

It was part of the entertainment, it was definitely part of the show.

这是娱乐的一部分，绝对是表演的一部分。

Dina Titus : If you think about the mushroom cloud, it's a very powerful, very sexy, very scary concept.

迪娜·提图斯：如果你想想蘑菇云，你会发现这是一个非常强大、非常性感、非常可怕的概念。

And so it fits right in with tourism, risk.

因此它非常适合旅游业和风险。

You know gambling is all about risk so you take that mushroom cloud and you pin it on a beauty pageant contestant or even some of the casinos would pack picnic lunches for you to go out and watch the mushroom cloud.

你知道赌博就是风险，所以你把蘑菇云钉在选美选手身上，甚至一些赌场会为你准备野餐午餐，让你出去观看蘑菇云。

I would have done it if I'd been here at that time.

如果我当时在这儿我就会这么做。

What could be more exciting than that?

还有什么比这更令人兴奋的呢？

Archival Newsreel : "This is Walter Cronkite and this is Newsman's Nob.

档案新闻片：“这是沃尔特·克朗凯特，这是新闻记者的贵族。

Some seventy-five miles north of Las Vegas, Nevada, the bomb will be exploded from a tower three-hundred feet high and this time some thousand troops will be in trenches only some two miles from the tower where the atomic device goes off."

在内华达州拉斯维加斯以北约七十五英里处，炸弹将从一座三百英尺高的塔上爆炸，这一次，数千名士兵将在距离原子装置爆炸的塔仅约两英里的战壕中爆炸。”

Brian Greenspun : My father used to take us as kids.

布莱恩·格林斯潘：我父亲曾经把我们当作孩子。

We used to go up to Mount Charleston.

我们过去常去查尔斯顿山。

And I remember watching these mushroom bombs, and a number of minutes later these particles, these pink particles, would just settle over us, this dust.

我记得看着这些蘑菇炸弹，几分钟后这些颗粒，这些粉红色的颗粒，就会落在我们身上，这些灰尘。

And that was all radioactive fallout.

这都是放射性尘埃。

We all took the government's word that it was safe and the government lied to us.

我们都相信政府说这是安全的，但政府对我们撒了谎。

Narrator : As the decade wore on, there would be pockets of protest -- and in 1963, the Limited Test Ban Treaty would finally put an end to the atmospheric detonations.

旁白：随着这十年的流逝，会有一些抗议活动出现——1963 年，《有限禁止试验条约》最终结束了大气层爆炸。

But for now, any misgivings Las Vegans harbored about the bombs were easily brushed aside.

但就目前而言，拉斯维加斯人对炸弹的任何疑虑都被轻易地抛在了一边。

The town was growing.

这个城镇正在发展。

Tourism was booming.

旅游业蓬勃发展。

And every time a radioactive cloud bloomed over the desert, Las Vegas again made the news.

每当沙漠上空出现放射性云朵时，拉斯维加斯就会再次成为新闻焦点。

Dina Titus : Las Vegas succeeds because it has to.

迪娜·泰特斯：拉斯维加斯之所以成功，是因为它必须如此。

When you deal with adversity you've got to be creative, I mean it's brittle and it's brutal, but if you make it, boy there's no stopping you.

当你应对逆境时，你必须发挥创造力，我的意思是它很脆弱而且很残酷，但如果你成功了，孩子，就没有什么能阻止你。

It's a very American thing.

这是非常美国化的事情。

It's that very kind of egalitarian notion, everybody can strike it rich.

这就是一种平等主义的观念，每个人都可以致富。

I think that's one of the things that's appealing, it appeals to that American Dream.

我认为这是吸引人的事情之一，它吸引了美国梦。

Jodi Wetzel, Showgirl : The lovely thing about Vegas is a dancer can have a long life here.

Jodi Wetzel，歌舞女郎：维加斯的可爱之处在于舞者可以在这里度过漫长的一生。

The show Jubilee, it offers job security that you don't usually get in shows in other places.

节目《Jubilee》，它提供了你在其他地方的节目中通常得不到的工作保障。

It's been going on for twenty-three years.

这样的情况已经持续了二十三年了。

As long as your body is in shape and you look good, you can hang, you can stay in the show.

只要你的身体状态好，看起来不错，你就可以挂，你就可以留在节目中。

We've got a lot of dancers that are you know, thirties, forties.

我们有很多三四十岁的舞者。

Our principal dancer just left last contract, she's fifty-one years old.

我们的首席舞者刚刚结束最后一份合同，她五十一岁了。

That's cool, cause I like it, it's nice, easy living out here.

太酷了，因为我喜欢它，这里的生活很好，很轻松。

Jodi Wetzel : This is the largest production of its kind in the country, if not the world.

Jodi Wetzel：这是该国同类产品中规模最大的，即使不是世界上最大的。

It represents all classic Las Vegas.

它代表了拉斯维加斯的一切经典。

That's Bally's whole theme is, you know, real life, Las Vegas, it's where classic glamorous Las Vegas lives.

这就是 Bally 的整个主题，你知道，现实生活中的拉斯维加斯，这是经典迷人的拉斯维加斯居住的地方。

You know, I just love the show, I thought it was a little campy but it's fun you know, and it's a good show and I think that you know, this is, it has everything people want when they come to Vegas.

你知道，我只是喜欢这个节目，我觉得它有点做作，但它很有趣，你知道，这是一个很好的节目，我想你知道，这就是，它拥有人们来到维加斯时想要的一切。

You know this is what they are expecting, they want the feathers and the rhinestones and, tits and glitz we call it!

你知道这就是他们所期待的，他们想要羽毛和莱茵石，我们称之为山雀和浮华！

Jodi Wetzel : We do six at Bally's and usually about nine to ten hours at Dre's, sleep for maybe three, four hours and get up and do it all again, so for the better part of the last two years I've been working seven days a week.

Jodi Wetzel：我们在 Bally's 工作六小时，在 Dre's 通常工作九到十个小时，睡大概三、四个小时，然后起床再做一遍，所以在过去两年的大部分时间里，我每周工作 7 天。

People come here and they come to party, especially in the after hours they tend to get louder and ruder and more demanding.

人们来到这里参加聚会，尤其是在下班后，他们往往会变得更大声、更粗鲁、要求更高。

You know I keep my pace but you're still absorbing it, you're still taking it in, you're still being affected by it.

你知道我保持着我的节奏，但你仍然在吸收它，你仍然在接受它，你仍然受到它的影响。

I'm definitely getting different extremes of Vegas with the two different jobs.

通过这两种不同的工作，我肯定会体验到拉斯维加斯的不同极端。

Eventually I'll have to let go of it, it's kind of wearing me down a lot but now I'm just hooked.

最终我不得不放弃它，这让我很疲惫，但现在我已经上瘾了。

I'm just hooked on having money in my pocket again.

我只是再次迷上了口袋里的钱。

I just struggled so much in New York that I just don't want to go back to that.

我在纽约经历了太多的挣扎，所以我不想回到那个地方。

Wife : "Do you realize what it would mean if anybody in North Point found out that Mr. Earnest Raff, the president of the bank, was in Las Vegas?

妻子：“你知道如果北角的任何人发现银行行长欧尼斯特·拉夫先生在拉斯维加斯，那意味着什么吗？

Our life has been rich and full, you don't want to ruin our reputation by spending a weekend in a place like that!"

我们的生活已经很丰富了，你不想在那样的地方度过周末而毁了我们的名声吧！”

Husband : "No one will know anything about it but us."

丈夫：“除了我们，没有人会知道这件事。”

Wife : "Alright, I dare anything you dare."

妻子：“好吧，你敢的我都敢。”

Husband : "Alright, get in!

老公：“好了，进来吧！

There you are, slide over.

就在那里，滑过去。

Next stop, Las Vegas!"

下一站，拉斯维加斯！”

David Thomson : In the prosperity of the postwar period that notion begins to creep in around the edges and then begins to seep to the center, where people look at each other and say maybe we could have some fun.

大卫·汤姆森：在战后的繁荣时期，这种观念开始蔓延到边缘，然后开始渗透到中心，人们互相看着对方，说也许我们可以找点乐子。

And everyone says well what do you mean by fun?

大家都说好，你所说的乐趣是什么意思？

Las Vegas said to people look, you could come here for a weekend, you can gamble, leave your wife at home, do you understand what I mean by that?

拉斯维加斯对人们说，你可以来这里度周末，你可以赌博，把你的妻子留在家里，你明白我的意思吗？

And we'll give you a little bit of fun.

我们会给你一点乐趣。

Marc Cooper : Las Vegas was perfectly positioned to cash in on the postwar consumerist prosperity boom.

马克·库珀：拉斯维加斯处于完美的位置，可以从战后消费主义繁荣的繁荣中获利。

I mean think about it.

我的意思是考虑一下。

1950's, the rise of the national highway system, the emergence of motoring as a leisure activity and money.

1950年代，国家高速公路系统的兴起，驾驶汽车作为一种休闲活动和金钱的出现。

It's ok to have fun, it's ok to seek leisure, it's ok to go on frivolous vacations and it's ok to push the edge.

享受乐趣是可以的，寻求休闲是可以的，度过无聊的假期是可以的，突破极限也是可以的。

Narrator : By the mid-1950's, Las Vegas was everywhere Americans looked.

旁白：到了 20 世纪 50 年代中期，美国人的目光所及之处都是拉斯维加斯。

A casual flip through any of the country's leading magazines and one was reminded, yet again, that the wanton desert city was the place to be.

随便翻阅一下这个国家的任何一本主要杂志，就会再次提醒人们，这座肆意的沙漠城市就是你该去的地方。

At this point, for the average tourist, Las Vegas was not really one city, but two.

此时，对于普通游客来说，拉斯维加斯实际上并不是一个城市，而是两个城市。

Downtown on Fremont Street, lately dubbed Glitter Gulch, the rugged, western feel of the old frontier outpost still prevailed and joints like the Horseshoe set the tone.

位于市中心的弗里蒙特街 (Fremont Street)，最近被称为闪光峡谷 (Glitter Gulch)，古老边境前哨的崎岖、西部风情仍然盛行，马蹄形 (Horseshoe) 等关节点奠定了基调。

Owned and operated by Benny Binion, a convicted bootlegger who had killed at least two men back home in Texas, the Horseshoe was the only place in town that would accept any bet a player put on the table -- no matter how high -- and the first to ply to clientele with free booze.

马蹄酒吧的所有者和经营者是本尼·比尼恩 (Benny Binion)，他是一名被定罪的走私犯，在德克萨斯州的家乡杀害了至少两名男子。马蹄酒吧是城里唯一一家接受玩家赌注的地方，无论赌注的金额是多少，也是第一个向顾客提供免费酒水的地方。

"If you wanna get rich," Binion liked to say, "make little people feel like big people."

“如果你想致富，”比尼恩喜欢说，“让小人物感觉自己像个大人物。”

Marc Cooper : Here was a guy who was a bigger than life, tough talking, pistol packing Texan.

马克·库珀：这是一个气宇轩昂、言辞强硬、持枪的德克萨斯人。

But, he instilled the ethic in this city that the customer was number one.

但是，他向这座城市灌输了顾客至上的道德准则。

It's a cliché, but it's the cliché that has built the most visited place in America.

这是陈词滥调，但正是这种陈词滥调造就了美国游客最多的地方。

Narrator : But it was the stretch of Highway 91 on the southern edge of town -- that now most often leapt to mind when Americans thought of Las Vegas.

旁白：但是，当美国人想到拉斯维加斯时，现在最常浮现在脑海中的是位于城镇南部边缘的 91 号高速公路。

Known as "the Strip," it was fast-becoming what one journalist called "a never-never land of exotic architecture.

它被称为“拉斯维加斯大道”，很快成为一位记者所说的“充满异国情调建筑的梦幻之地”。

.

。

.

。

flamboyant signery and frenetic diversion .

浮夸的签名和疯狂的消遣。

.

。

.

。

[that is] the heart of this unspiritual Mecca."

[那是]这个非精神麦加的心脏。”

Bankrolled almost entirely by the mob, new Strip resorts rose up out of the scrub with dizzying regularity -- first the Sahara and the Sands, then the New Frontier and the Riviera and the Dunes, then the Tropicana and the Stardust.

几乎完全由暴民提供资金，拉斯维加斯大道上的新度假村以令人眼花缭乱的规律性从灌木丛中拔地而起——首先是撒哈拉和金沙，然后是新边疆、里维埃拉和沙丘，然后是纯品康纳和星尘。

At times, the gala openings were just weeks apart.

有时，庆典开幕式仅相隔几周。

By the end of the decade, the swath of highway would be so lit up with neon that it was visible from fifty miles away.

到本世纪末，这条高速公路将被霓虹灯照亮，从五十英里外都可以看到。

David Thomson : What happens is the mob quickly realized that it's an enormously lucrative thing, that there could be many casinos, and they also realized that tourists, they're going to hear about Las Vegas and it's going to be exotic and romantic and glamorous.

大卫·汤姆森：暴徒们很快意识到这是一件利润丰厚的事情，可能会有很多赌场，他们也意识到游客会听说拉斯维加斯，那里将充满异国情调、浪漫而迷人。

Narrator : In the quest for tourist dollars, no gimmick was too bizarre.

旁白：在寻求旅游收入的过程中，没有什么花招太奇怪的。

At the Sands, there was an annual Miss Atomic Bomb beauty contest.

在金沙酒店，每年都会举办原子弹小姐选美比赛。

The New Frontier installed a glass-enclosed chamber at the bottom of its swimming pool, so that guests could enjoy their cocktails with an underwater view.

New Frontier酒店在泳池底部安装了一个玻璃封闭室，以便客人可以一边欣赏水下景色一边享用鸡尾酒。

One publicist even toyed with the idea of filling a hotel pool with Jell-O, before a desperate maintenance engineer put a stop to the stunt.

一位公关人员甚至萌生了用果冻填满酒店泳池的想法，但一名绝望的维护工程师阻止了这一举动。

Resort owners touted the Strip as Hollywood's playground, and kept their hotels in the news by offering the press regular access to their stars.

度假村业主将拉斯维加斯大道吹捧为好莱坞的游乐场，并通过让媒体定期接触他们的明星来让他们的酒店成为新闻焦点。

And unlike the bare-bones casinos on Fremont Street, the Strip resorts lured patrons to the tables with an irresistible concoction of luxury and diversion -- posh accommodations, eternally green golf courses, lavish midnight buffets.

与弗里蒙特街简陋的赌场不同，拉斯维加斯大道的度假村以令人难以抗拒的奢华与娱乐相结合的方式吸引顾客前来赌桌——豪华的住宿、永远绿色的高尔夫球场、奢华的午夜自助餐。

But the biggest draw was the shows.

但最大的吸引力是表演。

Inspired by the Sands, which had been the first to hire a top-flight entertainment director, the new resorts poached managers from the hottest nightclubs on both coasts, and charged them with booking the brightest stars in the country.

受到第一个聘请顶级娱乐总监的金沙集团的启发，新的度假村从东西海岸最热门的夜总会挖来经理，并要求他们预订全国最耀眼的明星。

By the mid-fifties, the Strip marquees boasted what one reporter called "a wider choice of top-banana talent" than could be found even on Broadway.

到了五十年代中期，拉斯维加斯大道的大帐篷吹嘘着一位记者所说的“比百老汇更广泛的顶级香蕉人才选择”。

Suddenly, for the price of a cup of coffee, visitors to Las Vegas could catch the kind of act that they had only seen on the silver screen.

突然之间，来到拉斯维加斯的游客只要花一杯咖啡的钱就能观看到以前只在银幕上看到过的表演。

David Thomson : Noel Coward is hired to come here, and the idea that boy, that place, this new place, this upstart place can get Noel Coward, and Dietrich came, and Judy Garland, and you know people who were major showbiz legends came and had smash hits for a lot of money.

大卫·汤姆森：诺尔·科沃德被雇到这里，这个想法是，那个地方，这个新地方，这个新贵的地方可以吸引诺尔·科沃德，迪特里希来，朱迪·加兰，你知道，演艺界的主要传奇人物都来了，并且赚了很多钱。

Narrator : Nowhere else in America, not even New York, were performers paid so well -- as much as 50,000 dollars for a one-week stand.

旁白：在美国其他任何地方，甚至纽约，表演者的报酬都没有这么高——一周的演出费用高达 50,000 美元。

The stars, in turn, plugged their Vegas gigs every time they appeared on TV.

反过来，明星们每次出现在电视上时都会在拉斯维加斯演出。

The arrangement was so mutually-beneficial, in fact, that by the mid-1950's, the entertainment industry's newspaper, Variety, found it necessary to station a full-time correspondent in Las Vegas.

事实上，这种安排是如此互惠互利，以至于到了 20 世纪 50 年代中期，娱乐业报纸 Variety 发现有必要在拉斯维加斯派驻一名全职记者。

As the competition in town mounted and the price of star-studded productions soared, some resorts made skin their headline attraction.

随着城里竞争的加剧和明星云集的产品价格的飙升，一些度假村将剥皮作为主要景点。

With each passing month, costumes in local revues grew skimpier, until finally, in 1957, the dancers at the Dunes appeared on stage topless.

每个月，当地滑稽剧的服装都变得越来越暴露，直到 1957 年，沙丘舞者们终于赤裸上身出现在舞台上。

"Pretty girls sell," one Las Vegas promoter explained.

“漂亮女孩卖东西，”拉斯维加斯的一位促销员解释道。

"You need to do something to get people's attention."

“你需要做点什么来引起人们的注意。”

But the entertainment was never more than a sidelight -- "a smart business hype," noted Life magazine, "[that] brings gambling patrons in." Actress Tallulah Bankhead put the matter more baldly: "Dahling," she once said to a reporter, "we're just the highest-paid shills in history."

但娱乐活动只不过是一个小插曲——《生活》杂志指出，“这是一种聪明的商业炒作，”“这吸引了赌博顾客。”女演员塔卢拉·班克黑德 (Tallulah Bankhead) 更直白地说：“达林，”她曾经对记者说，“我们只是历史上收入最高的托儿。”

To the casino owners, it was an investment well worth making.

对于赌场老板来说，这是一项非常值得的投资。

With the odds stacked overwhelmingly in favor of the house, they stood to make a fortune.

由于对这所房子的胜算是压倒性的，他们有机会发大财。

All they had to do was get people in the door.

他们所要做的就是让人们进门。

Some Americans, at least, proved more than willing to be taken.

事实证明，至少一些美国人非常愿意被带走。

Marc Cooper : You came here and just by coming here you were making a statement.

马克·库珀：你来到这里，只是通过来到这里你就发表了一个声明。

You were a little bit gamey; you were a little bit on the edge.

你有点贪玩；你有点处于边缘。

And that was a real novel concept in American popular culture.

这在美国流行文化中是一个真正新颖的概念。

It was the first national permission granted to you to be an adult and to do things that you might not ordinarily do but you wanted to do, and I think that was really kinda the intoxicant that drove Las Vegas.

这是第一个国家允许你成为一个成年人，可以做你通常不会做但你想做的事情，我认为这确实是驱动拉斯维加斯的一种麻醉剂。

Narrator : By 1955, Las Vegas was reeling in an estimated seven million visitors a year -- more than the Washington Monument, Mount Rushmore, Yellowstone National Park and the Grand Canyon combined.

旁白：到 1955 年，拉斯维加斯估计每年吸引 700 万游客——比华盛顿纪念碑、拉什莫尔山、黄石国家公园和大峡谷的总和还多。

Few if any of them ever ventured off the Strip -- the frenetic adult playground that had now given Las Vegas the moniker "Sin City."

他们中几乎没有人曾冒险离开拉斯维加斯大道——这个疯狂的成人游乐场现在给拉斯维加斯起了“罪恶之城”的绰号。

Paul Goldberger : I think this notion that Vegas is a place where the underside of the American psyche could express itself a little more, could come out from under the rock as it were, has been there for a long time.

保罗·戈德伯格：我认为拉斯维加斯是一个可以更多地表达美国人内心深处的地方，可以从岩石下显现出来的观念已经存在很长时间了。

Las Vegas was created as this place in which sort of good people could be bad and yet not lose any points for doing so.

拉斯维加斯的创建是为了让好人可以做坏事，但不会因此而失去任何分数。

That whatever happens here doesn't count.

这里发生的一切都不算数。

Randy, Gambling Addict : I gamble on the way to work, I gamble after work.

兰迪，赌博成瘾者：我在上班的路上赌博，下班后也赌博。

On my way to work if I want some money I wouldn't go to work.

在上班的路上，如果我想要钱，我就不会去上班。

Then I go home and lie to my girlfriend that I'd worked overtime and my car broke down or something, I was living quite a lie.

然后我回家对我女朋友撒谎说我加班了，我的车坏了什么的，我活在谎言中。

My name is Randy, I'm a compulsive gambler, my last bet was June ninth, a famous day.

我叫兰迪，我是一个赌徒，我最后一次赌注是六月九日，一个著名的日子。

Bob : I'm Bob and I'm a compulsive gambler.

鲍勃：我是鲍勃，我是一个赌徒。

Chris : My name is Chris and I'm a compulsive gambler.

克里斯：我的名字是克里斯，我是一个赌徒。

Woman 1 : When I was out there gambling I was just crazy, I mean I would leave my newborn son at home with my twelve year-old at the time and not caring about going home, not caring about anything.

女1：当我在外面赌博时，我简直疯了，我的意思是我会把我刚出生的儿子和我当时十二岁的孩子留在家里，不关心回家，不关心任何事情。

Randy : You can't walk into a Seven Eleven or an AM/PM or anyplace else without there being slots.

兰迪：如果没有老虎机，你就无法走进 7-11 便利店、AM/PM 便利店或其他任何地方。

The grocery stores have slots.

杂货店有售票处。

Ain't got 'em in McDonald's or Burger King yet, but it'll happen probably.

麦当劳或汉堡王还没有推出这种产品，但这可能会发生。

You know I got to the point where I was gambling my whole check and I was borrowing from whoever, family, whoever to cover, cover my butt and I finally ran out of people to borrow from and, well, I didn't want my fiancée to leave me so I guess in a panic you could say, I figured I had no other alternative other than to rob a bank.

你知道，我已经到了把我的全部支票都拿去赌博的地步，我向任何人、家人、任何人借钱，遮掩我的屁股，我终于没有人可以借了，好吧，我不想让我的未婚妻离开我，所以我想在恐慌中你可以说，我想除了抢劫银行我别无选择。

Ran in there and gave the lady a note and she started handing me money and, went running out of there, I can remember saying excuse me to somebody walking out the door.

跑进去给那位女士一张纸条，她开始递给我钱，然后跑出那里，我记得对走出门的人说对不起。

Doesn't hurt to be a nice bank robber.

做一个善良的银行抢劫犯并没有什么坏处。

Right now I'm awaiting sentencing.

现在我正在等待宣判。

It seems that it'd be a really scary time, which it is, but I know that the sentencing I'm waiting on could not be as bad as the sentence I was in.

看来这将是一个非常可怕的时刻，事实确实如此，但我知道我正在等待的判决不会像我所受的判决那么糟糕。

Narrator : Beyond what one visitor called the "fabulous, extraordinary madhouse" of the Strip in the 1950's, Las Vegas was exploding.

旁白：除了一位游客所称的 20 世纪 50 年代拉斯维加斯大道“神话般、非凡的疯人院”之外，拉斯维加斯正在爆炸式增长。

Each year, thousands of newcomers flocked to the booming desert city, first doubling, then nearly tripling its population.

每年，成千上万的新移民涌入这座蓬勃发展的沙漠城市，人口先是增加一倍，然后几乎增加两倍。

By the end of the decade, the metropolitan area would be home to more than 127,000 people.

到本世纪末，大都市区将拥有超过 127,000 人。

Most tourists never even glimpsed the neighborhoods where all these new residents lived.

大多数游客甚至从未见过这些新居民居住的社区。

They likely had no idea that Las Vegas claimed more houses of worship per capita than any other city of equal size, or that growth had so taxed the water distribution systems that sewage effluent was used to keep the golf courses green.

他们可能不知道拉斯维加斯的人均礼拜堂数量比任何其他同等规模的城市都多，也不知道经济增长对供水系统造成了沉重负担，以至于污水被用来保持高尔夫球场的绿色。

And certainly almost none of the millions who passed through Las Vegas each year had ever been to the Westside -- a sprawling, squalid neighborhood across the railroad tracks from Fremont Street that was home to some 15,000 African-Americans.

当然，每年经过拉斯维加斯的数百万人中几乎没有人去过西区——这是一个与弗里蒙特街隔铁轨相望的广阔而肮脏的社区，居住着大约 15,000 名非裔美国人。

Patricia Cunningham, Talk Show Host : West Las Vegas, the west side was like nothing I had ever seen before.

Patricia Cunningham，脱口秀主持人：西拉斯维加斯，西边是我以前从未见过的。

It was not unusual to see cars almost bigger than the very houses they were parked in front of.

看到汽车几乎比停在前面的房子还大的情况并不罕见。

It was the most segregated neighborhood that I had ever witnessed in my life.

这是我一生中见过的最种族隔离的社区。

It was a given if you were African-American, you had to live west of the railroad tracks.

如果你是非裔美国人，你就必须住在铁轨以西，这是理所当然的。

Eugene Moehring : The first significant numbers of African-Americans came to Las Vegas during World War II, to help build and work in the Basic Magnesium factory, a defense plant.

尤金·莫林（Eugene Moehring）：二战期间，第一批大量非洲裔美国人来到拉斯维加斯，帮助建设基础镁工厂（一家国防工厂）并在工厂工作。

There were many white people who hoped that once World War II ended they would leave and go some place else.

许多白人希望二战结束后他们能够离开并前往其他地方。

But the hotel industry, the growing Strip and downtown created lots of low-paying jobs for custodial labor, room maids, waiters and whatever.

但酒店业、不断发展的拉斯维加斯大道和市中心为保管工、客房服务员、服务员等创造了大量低薪工作。

And so ironically it was the Las Vegas hotel industry that kept African-Americans here.

具有讽刺意味的是，正是拉斯维加斯的酒店业将非裔美国人留在这里。

Narrator : Like virtually every other city in the country, Las Vegas was rigidly segregated.

旁白：就像美国几乎所有其他城市一样，拉斯维加斯也实行严格的隔离。

African-Americans were relegated to the lowliest positions in the hotels and casinos, and barred from patronizing most every establishment in Glitter Gulch and on the Strip.

非裔美国人被降级到酒店和赌场的最低职位，并被禁止光顾闪光峡谷和拉斯维加斯大道上的几乎所有场所。

Even the black performers who headlined in town were shunted out of the showrooms when the curtain came down and effectively exiled to the Westside, where dingy rooming house accommodations went for as much as fifteen dollars a night -- roughly fifty percent more than the going-rate for a room on the Strip.

当大幕落下时，就连镇上的头条新闻黑人表演者也被赶出了陈列室，实际上被流放到了西区，那里肮脏的出租屋住宿价格高达每晚十五美元——比拉斯维加斯大道上房间的现行价格高出大约百分之五十。

Patricia Cunningham : That was the excitement of Las Vegas.

帕特里夏·坎宁安：这就是拉斯维加斯的刺激之处。

You could go to a lounge show for a two-drink minimum, not only see topnotch entertainment, but you might be sitting next to Frank Sinatra.

你可以去酒吧看一场至少喝两杯的表演，不仅可以看到一流的娱乐节目，而且你可能会坐在弗兰克·辛纳屈 (Frank Sinatra) 旁边。

Those were the kinds of experiences you could have walking through a casino.

这些都是你在赌场里行走时可能获得的体验。

You never knew who you would run into.

你永远不知道你会遇到谁。

That was the thing, after the shows, they went to the lounges.

事情就是这样，演出结束后，他们去了休息室。

But the African-American entertainers could not do that.

但非裔美国艺人却做不到这一点。

Narration : But in 1955, the color line began to threaten gambling profits.

旁白：但到了1955年，肤色线开始威胁赌博利润。

The trouble began with the Moulin Rouge, the city's first integrated resort, which upped the ante in town by adding a third nightly show -- and instantly siphoned off business from the Strip.

麻烦始于红磨坊，这是该市的第一个综合度假村，该度假村通过增加第三场夜间表演来提高镇上的赌注，并立即抢走了拉斯维加斯大道的业务。

Alice Key, Activist : It was a fabulous place.

Alice Key，活动家：那是一个很棒的地方。

That's where we used to gather and we were joined by a lot of people from this side of town.

那是我们过去聚会的地方，很多来自城镇这边的人也加入了我们的行列。

In fact, everybody was over at the Moulin Rouge; it was a huge success.

事实上，所有人都已经到了红磨坊。这是一个巨大的成功。

Every night was packed to jam.

每天晚上都挤满了人。

Narrator : Meanwhile, as the struggle for civil rights gained force and momentum in the South, African-American celebrities began to challenge Jim Crow in Las Vegas -- demanding rooms in the hotels where they played and refusing to perform unless black people were allowed in the audience.

旁白：与此同时，随着南方的民权斗争愈演愈烈，非裔美国名人开始在拉斯维加斯挑战种族隔离制度——要求他们演出的酒店有房间，并且拒绝表演，除非允许黑人进入观众席。

Strip owners were over a barrel: they could either concede or risk losing some of their biggest attractions.

拉斯维加斯大道的业主们已经陷入了困境：他们要么承认，要么冒着失去一些最大景点的风险。

The desire to keep the casinos crowded trumped the color line nearly every time.

让赌场保持拥挤的愿望几乎每次都压倒了肤色界限。

Then, in early 1960, the local NAACP ratcheted up the pressure.

然后，1960 年初，当地全国有色人种协进会加大了压力。

Alice Key : NAACP called a march on the strip and they notified the resort hotel association, and if they didn't want to see it on national television, they would open their doors.

艾丽丝·基：全国有色人种协进会号召在拉斯维加斯大道上举行游行，他们通知了度假酒店协会，如果他们不想在国家电视台上看到，他们就会敞开大门。

Brian Greenspun : The hotels don't want this fight, they don't want these headlines all over the country.

布莱恩·格林斯潘：酒店不希望发生这场争斗，他们不希望这些新闻遍布全国。

And this town was run by the hotels.

这个小镇是由酒店经营的。

When they said do, it got done.

当他们说做时，事情就完成了。

Narrator : The day before the planned protest, at the Moulin Rouge, members of the NAACP met with the mayor, the governor, and a group of local businessmen.

旁白：在计划举行的抗议活动的前一天，全国有色人种协进会成员在红磨坊会见了市长、州长和一群当地商人。

In a matter of hours, they had finalized an agreement to lift the Jim Crow restrictions at every hotel, restaurant, bar, casino, and showroom in Las Vegas.

几个小时内，他们就达成了一项协议，取消拉斯维加斯每家酒店、餐厅、酒吧、赌场和陈列室的种族隔离限制。

John L Smith : You know in retrospect people will look back and remember how liberal they were, but in reality back then there were very few whites standing up with blacks.

约翰·L·史密斯：你知道，回想起来，人们会记得他们是多么自由，但实际上，当时很少有白人与黑人站在一起。

There were folks who believed that blacks were bad for business, but the one thing that the casino bosses have always protected is their bankroll and anything that they see that has threatened it was put aside.

有些人认为黑人对生意不利，但赌场老板一直保护的一件事是他们的资金，他们看到的任何威胁资金的东西都被搁置了。

Narrator : It would be more than another decade before the city was fully desegregated, before African-Americans could hold the more lucrative casino positions or make their homes beyond the Westside.

旁白：这座城市还需要十多年的时间才能完全废除种族隔离，非洲裔美国人才能在赌场占据更有利可图的职位，或者在西区以外的地方安家。

But the Moulin Rouge agreement, as it would come to be known, had underscored an irreducible truth: the color that mattered most in Las Vegas was not black or white, but green.

但后来众所周知的红磨坊协议强调了一个不可还原的事实：拉斯维加斯最重要的颜色不是黑色或白色，而是绿色。

Marc Cooper : People say that Las Vegas is a town based on fantasy, but I don't think so.

马克·库珀：人们说拉斯维加斯是一个基于幻想的小镇，但我不这么认为。

I think Las Vegas is in some ways the more honest and most authentic place in America because it gets us down to what much of our relationships are about in any case, which is money, and we don't like to talk about that out in the real world.

我认为拉斯维加斯在某些方面是美国更诚实、最真实的地方，因为它让我们了解我们的关系在任何情况下都与金钱有关，而我们不喜欢在现实世界中谈论这个问题。

This is a city where the only currency is currency.

这是一座唯一流通货币的城市。

It's a place where as long as you have the chips, you are equal to everybody.

这是一个只要你有筹码，你就与所有人平等的地方。

Nobody cares what your race is, your color, your gender, your sexual orientation, in fact they don't even care if you have a criminal record.

没有人关心你的种族、肤色、性别、性取向，事实上他们甚至不关心你是否有犯罪记录。

Everybody is the same until you're out of money.

每个人都是一样的，直到你没钱为止。

And then when you're out of money you're just out.

然后当你没钱的时候你就出局了。

Narrator : By late 1960, Las Vegas was so iconic that Warner Brothers was inspired to set a major motion picture in town, a rollicking saga about a five-million-dollar casino heist gone awry, starring three legendary veterans of the Vegas entertainment scene -- Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, and Sammy Davis, Jr.

旁白：到了 1960 年底，拉斯维加斯已经成为了一个标志性的城市，华纳兄弟受到启发，在城里拍摄了一部大型电影，讲述了一场关于价值 500 万美元的赌场抢劫案的欢闹传奇，由拉斯维加斯娱乐界的三位传奇老将弗兰克·辛纳屈 (Frank Sinatra)、迪恩·马丁 (Dean Martin) 和小萨米·戴维斯 (Sammy Davis, Jr.) 主演。

When shooting on the film wrapped for the day, the trio would make late-night appearances, along with their co-stars Joey Bishop and Peter Lawford, in the luxurious Copa Room at the Sands.

当电影拍摄当天杀青时，三人组将与他们的搭档乔伊·毕肖普和彼得·劳福德一起在金沙豪华的 Copa Room 中亮相。

They called their act "the Summit." Their fans called them "the Rat Pack." The show was such a hit that it would run on and off for years.

他们称这次行动为“峰会”。他们的粉丝称他们为“鼠群”。该剧非常受欢迎，断断续续地播出了好几年。

Steve Wynn, Resort Chairman of the Board : We went to the Sands hotel, where every business guy with money on the planet was trying to get through the door.

史蒂夫·永利 (Steve Wynn)，度假村董事会主席：我们去了金沙酒店，地球上每个有钱的商人都想进门。

Every swinger and do-da-diddy guy, every sporting life character on the face of the earth was in Las Vegas, taking every room in this small town so they could get a seat at the Rat Pack.

地球上的每一个浪荡公子和老爹，每一个体育生活人物都在拉斯维加斯，占据了这个小镇的每个房间，这样他们就可以在 Rat Pack 找到一个座位。

And the air in the Sands crackled.

金沙中的空气噼啪作响。

Something was happening.

有事发生了。

The music was playing on the PA system of Sinatra and Dean Martin doing Guys and Dolls and things like that.

西纳特拉和迪恩·马丁的扩音系统中正在播放音乐，他们正在表演红男绿女之类的事情。

The charisma, the excitement, the electricity in the building in the afternoon was beyond belief.

下午大楼里的魅力、兴奋和电力令人难以置信。

There is no parallel to it today.

今天，这是无可比拟的。

The lights go out.

灯灭了。

The band plays music, and the announcer says "Welcome to the Sands Copa Room," and then without another word the curtain opens and Frank Sinatra walks out, Dean Martin, Sammy Davis, Joey Bishop, Peter Lawford, with no introduction.

乐队演奏音乐，播音员说“欢迎来到金沙杯房”，然后二话不说，幕布拉开，弗兰克·辛纳屈走出去，迪恩·马丁、萨米·戴维斯、乔伊·毕晓普、彼得·劳福德也没有介绍。

Dave Hickey : They were not nice America, you know, I mean they were just sort of the dead end of cool, they were the dead end of all that jazz scene, they were sort of the embodiment of these big Italian ghettos and Jewish ghettos.

戴夫·希基：他们不是好美国，你知道，我的意思是他们只是酷的死胡同，他们是所有爵士乐场景的死胡同，他们是这些意大利贫民窟和犹太贫民窟的化身。

I mean they are the emblematic creatures of this culture and they don't, you know, kowtow to no one.

我的意思是，他们是这种文化的象征性生物，你知道，他们不会向任何人卑躬屈膝。

David Thomson : I think that people who came here knew the mob were in control, and Sinatra and the Rat Pack they sort of acted it out, as if to say, you know what's really going on here, don't you?

大卫·汤姆森：我认为来到这里的人都知道暴徒正在控制之中，西纳特拉和老鼠帮他们就表演了出来，好像在说，你知道这里到底发生了什么，不是吗？

And it was part of the glamour for the ordinary person.

对于普通人来说，这也是魅力的一部分。

Nick Pileggi : They were urban half-ass wise guys, they played the game, and they were very sharp and dangerous.

Nick Pileggi：他们是城市里的笨蛋，他们玩游戏，而且非常敏锐和危险。

They drank too much, they played around with different women, everybody knew they were cheating on wives.

他们喝得太多，他们和不同的女人一起玩，每个人都知道他们在欺骗妻子。

This was not a Donna Reed film festival.

这不是唐娜·里德电影节。

These guys were bad.

这些家伙很糟糕。

Marc Cooper : Everything that Vegas promised it would be and said it would be really was embodied in those handful of weeks when the Rat Pack was here performing every night.

马克·库珀：维加斯所承诺和所说的一切都在 Rat Pack 每天晚上在这里表演的那几周里得到了体现。

What it really was, was a pinnacle of Vegas Cool.

它实际上是维加斯酷的顶峰。

No question that that really was the high water mark of Las Vegas.

毫无疑问，这确实是拉斯维加斯的最高水位线。

We flippantly refer to Las Vegas now and then as Sin City but that's when Las Vegas was really Sin City.

我们有时轻率地将拉斯维加斯称为罪恶之城，但那时拉斯维加斯才是真正的罪恶之城。

Narrator : Among the scores of luminaries who the caught the Summit in the winter of 1960 was John F.

旁白： 1960 年冬天参加峰会的众多名人中，约翰·肯尼迪 (John F.

Kennedy, a young Senator from Massachusetts who had only just recently announced his candidacy for President of the United States.

肯尼迪是一位来自马萨诸塞州的年轻参议员，最近刚刚宣布竞选美国总统。

Kennedy had been coming to Vegas for years -- bewitched by its beautiful women, its whiff of danger, and its promise of a never-ending good time.

肯尼迪多年来一直来到维加斯——被这里美丽的女人、危险的气息和永无休止的美好时光的承诺所迷住。

The city, in turn, had claimed the charismatic candidate as its own.

反过来，该市也将这位魅力十足的候选人视为自己的候选人。

But once Kennedy reached the White House, his administration would turn on Las Vegas and launch the most sustained attack on the city in its history.

但一旦肯尼迪入主白宫，他的政府就会把矛头指向拉斯维加斯，并对这座城市发起历史上最持久的攻击。

The question then would be whether a place made famous as "Sin City" could survive if it cleaned up its act.

接下来的问题是，如果一个以“罪恶之城”而闻名的地方改正其行为，是否还能生存下去。

Narrator : At mid-century, Las Vegas was by far the strangest city in America -- a city built in the middle of the desert, where the main commercial district was comprised not of offices or banks, but hotels, where businesses operated 24 hours a day, raking in enormous profits from gambling -- an activity outlawed everywhere else in the nation and where many of the leading citizens were neither politicians nor priests but convicted criminals and professional racketeers -- men with longstanding ties to the mob.

旁白：上世纪中叶，拉斯维加斯是美国迄今为止最奇怪的城市——一座建在沙漠中央的城市，这里的主要商业区不是由办公室或银行组成，而是由酒店组成，这里的企业每天 24 小时营业，通过赌博赚取巨额利润——这种活动在全国其他地方都是非法的，而且这里的许多主要公民既不是政客也不是牧师，而是被定罪的罪犯和职业敲诈勒索者——与暴徒有长期联系的人。

Founded as a railroad town back in 1905, Las Vegas had made its mark as a place of illicit desire, a refuge from the laws and values that held sway in the rest of the country.

拉斯维加斯建于 1905 年，最初是一个铁路小镇，后来成为了非法欲望之地、躲避统治美国其他地区的法律和价值观的避难所。

But now, as social revolution swept the old rules aside, the forbidden allure of Sin City would begin to fade -- and Las Vegas would lose its way.

但现在，随着社会革命扫除了旧规则，罪恶之城的禁忌诱惑将开始消退——拉斯维加斯将迷失方向。

Amazingly, when it rose again, the city would no longer be at the fringes of American life, but at its very heart.

令人惊讶的是，当它再次崛起时，这座城市将不再处于美国生活的边缘，而是处于美国生活的中心。

Marc Cooper, Author : Each period in our history has some city that embodies the spirit of America.

马克·库珀，作者：我们历史上的每个时期都有一些体现美国精神的城市。

Whether it was Boston at the time of the American Revolution, or New York City at the times of the great immigration to America.

无论是美国革命时期的波士顿，还是美国大移民时期的纽约。

And now in our culture that is marinated in electronic entertainment, where there is this kind of immediate appeal to the senses, to immediate satisfaction, to immediate experience, to sensation over thought, to the present over the past or the future, Las Vegas is the city of the Eternal Now.

现在，在我们的电子娱乐文化中，存在着这种对感官的直接诉求，对即时满足，对即时体验，对思想的感觉，对过去或未来的现在，拉斯维加斯是永恒的现在之城。

There is no place that better captures the spirit of the American culture, for better and for worse, than Las Vegas.

无论好坏，没有一个地方比拉斯维加斯更能体现美国文化的精神。

John L.

约翰·L。

Smith, Writer : You can explore many of the deadly sins here, but none more so than greed.

史密斯，作家：你可以在这里探索许多致命的罪恶，但最重要的莫过于贪婪。

In America the ultimate expression of capitalism is greed is good.

在美国，资本主义的最终表现是贪婪是好的。

Las Vegas shows you that greed is at least fun.

拉斯维加斯向您展示了贪婪至少是有趣的。

Marc Cooper : Las Vegas was based on the commercialization of all your desires.

马克·库珀：拉斯维加斯是基于你所有愿望的商业化。

No desire is taboo its only a question of how much does it cost?

没有欲望是禁忌，只是要花多少钱的问题？

Elaine Wynn, Resort Director : It's the feeling that you're so far removed from people that want to tell you what to do that it just feels free.

Elaine Wynn，度假村总监：这种感觉是，你与那些想要告诉你该做什么的人相距甚远，感觉很自由。

David Thomson, Author : It is the licensing of fantasy.

David Thomson，作者：这是幻想的授权。

There is that opportunity or the illusion of the opportunity that you can change everything.

有这样的机会或者机会的幻觉，你可以改变一切。

Steve Wynn, Resort Chairman of the Board : Secrets mean nothing.

Steve Wynn，度假村董事会主席：秘密毫无意义。

This is not Wall Street, that operates on an imbalance of information.

这不是华尔街，它是在信息不平衡的基础上运作的。

Here's a place where if you've got a good idea you've got to shout it out.

在这里，如果您有好主意，就必须大声说出来。

Dave Hickey, Art Critic : It's the whole kind of oasis effect.

Dave Hickey，艺术评论家：这就是整个绿洲效应。

It is this thing in the desert.

就是沙漠里的这个东西。

It has no rational reason to exist.

它没有合理的存在理由。

The wastefulness of it is very sexy.

它的浪费是非常性感的。

Brian Averna : So we're here to build the world's largest birthday cake, a hundred and thirty thousand pounds of cake and frosting.

Brian Averna：所以我们来这里是为了建造世界上最大的生日蛋糕，有十三万磅的蛋糕和糖霜。

Woman 1 : Happy birthday Las Vegas!

女人1：拉斯维加斯生日快乐！

At midnight we officially turn a hundred.

午夜时分，我们正式一百岁了。

Good morning everybody we turn a hundred years old officially in ten minutes.

大家早上好，十分钟后我们就正式一百岁了。

Brian Averna : OK, my name is Brian Averna, I'm one of the corporate executive chefs of Sarah Lee.

Brian Averna：好的，我叫 Brian Averna，我是 Sarah Lee 的企业行政主厨之一。

We provided the cake and the frosting tonight.

今晚我们提供了蛋糕和糖霜。

We have sixty tables with two volunteers per table doing nothing but frosting.

我们有六十张桌子，每张桌子有两名志愿者，除了糖霜什么也不做。

They're just going to stand there as if they're making peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and that'll happen for the next twelve hours.

他们只是站在那里，就好像他们正在制作花生酱和果冻三明治一样，这将在接下来的十二个小时内发生。

This is a big community event, but it's also a pretty serious undertaking.

这是一项大型社区活动，但也是一项相当严肃的事业。

Look at these people, its one o'clock in the morning, you know its Vegas, so one o'clock doesn't mean anything.

看看这些人，现在是凌晨一点，你知道现在是维加斯，所以一点没有任何意义。

There's kids here, there's families that are here.

这里有孩子，这里有家人。

What a great way to be involved in the centennial.

参与百年纪念活动真是太好了。

Woman 2 It's just nice to see the community pulling together.

Woman 2 很高兴看到社区齐心协力。

This is awesome, it's been a long time since we've all pulled together to do something like this.

这太棒了，我们已经很久没有齐心协力做这样的事情了。

Woman 3 : It's fourth generation Las Vegas.

女人3：这是第四代拉斯维加斯。

Brian Averna : There's a hundred and thirty thousand eggs in the cake batter alone.

Brian Averna：仅蛋糕糊中就有十三万个鸡蛋。

There's twenty-four thousand pounds of flour, thirty-six thousand cups of sugar.

有两万四千磅面粉，三万六千杯糖。

I know that if you added all the calories together we'd be around twenty three million calories for the whole cake.

我知道，如果将所有卡路里加在一起，整个蛋糕的热量约为 2300 万卡路里。

We've got seven hours and we'll probably do it in six hours and fifty-nine minutes.

我们有七个小时，我们可能会在六小时五十九分钟内完成。

Can you do a quick fix on this before it collapses on us?

你能在它崩溃之前快速解决这个问题吗？

Woman 4 : We have to get it done by two o'clock, is it the time?

女4：我们必须在两点前完成，现在到了吗？

We have a deadline!

我们有最后期限！

Woman 5 : Pick it up a notch people, let's go, forty-five minutes!

女5：再接再厉，我们走吧，四十五分钟！

Can we do it?

我们能做到吗？

Oscar Goodman, Mayor : People have been asking me, why such a big birthday cake?

奥斯卡·古德曼市长：人们一直在问我，为什么要这么大的生日蛋糕？

Well, you're only a hundred once, a hundred years old, and to have anything less than that would be very un-Las Vegas.

好吧，你只有一百一次，一百岁，拥有比这更少的东西就非常不拉斯维加斯了。

This has to be the biggest, the best, the greatest, the most exciting, and that's what Vegas is, this is symbolic of us.

这必须是最大的、最好的、最伟大的、最令人兴奋的，这就是维加斯，这是我们的象征。

Brian Averna : I think we went over by several thousand pounds, we went a little heavy on the frosting.

Brian Averna：我想我们多了几千磅，我们的糖霜有点重。

Woman : Perfect piece look, that's way too much!

女：完美的单品造型，这太过分了！

Oscar Goodman : Now we have this perfect birthday cake, the biggest party, the greatest party, for the greatest city in the history of the world.

奥斯卡·古德曼：现在我们有这个完美的生日蛋糕，为世界历史上最伟大的城市举办的最大的派对，最伟大的派对。

Narrator : In 1960, Las Vegas enjoyed a national reputation as America's unofficial mobster metropolis.

旁白：1960年，拉斯维加斯享有美国非官方黑帮大都会的美誉。

No other place in America boasted such a rogue's gallery of city fathers.

美国没有任何其他地方拥有如此流氓的城市之父画廊。

And perhaps none had more clout than Moe Dalitz, a man sometimes known as "Mr. Las Vegas."

也许没有人比莫·达利茨（Moe Dalitz）更有影响力，他有时被称为“拉斯维加斯先生”。

The onetime kingpin of Cleveland's bootleg whiskey racket, former operator of illegal gambling dens in Ohio and Kentucky, and a reputed player in the national crime organization known as "the Syndicate," Dalitz possessed a pedigree tailor-made for a place like Las Vegas.

达利茨曾经是克利夫兰非法威士忌酒团伙的头目，曾是俄亥俄州和肯塔基州非法赌博窝点的经营者，也是被称为“辛迪加”的国家犯罪组织的著名成员，他拥有为拉斯维加斯这样的地方量身定制的血统。

At a time when no legitimate enterprise in America would have invested a dime in a casino, Dalitz had sunk some of his dirty money into a controlling stake in the Desert Inn, one of the very first mob-operated resorts to be built out on Highway 91, the road that ran southwest to Los Angeles.

在美国没有合法企业愿意在赌场投资一毛钱的时候，达利茨将他的一些脏钱投入了沙漠旅馆的控股权，这是在 91 号高速公路（西南通往洛杉矶的公路）上建造的第一批由黑帮经营的度假村之一。

Other mobsters followed, and together they transformed the desolate desert highway into the famed Las Vegas Strip -- the self-proclaimed "entertainment capital of the world," the premiere gambling center of the western hemisphere, and the undisputed hub of the place known to Americans as Sin City.

其他黑帮也紧随其后，他们一起将荒凉的沙漠高速公路变成了著名的拉斯维加斯大道——自称为“世界娱乐之都”、西半球首屈一指的赌博中心，以及被美国人称为“罪恶之城”的地方无可争议的中心。

"It's as though you walk through a veil," said one local, "you become a nonconformist.

一位当地人说：“这就好像你穿过了一层面纱，你就变成了一个不墨守成规的人。

You enter an adult fairyland where a dollar is not a dollar, and five dollars is a chip."

你进入了一个成人的仙境，在那里一美元不是一美元，五美元就是筹码。”

Thanks to Dalitz and his associates, what once had been a remote western outpost now drew some eight million visitors a year.

感谢达利茨和他的同事们，这个曾经是偏远西部前哨的地方现在每年吸引大约八百万游客。

Brian Greenspun, Editor : Remember, Las Vegas would not be here today but for these guys.

布莱恩·格林斯潘（Brian Greenspun），编辑：请记住，如果没有这些人，拉斯维加斯今天就不会在这里。

Without Moe and those guys there would have been no money, there would have been no expertise.

没有莫和那些人，就不会有钱，也不会有专业知识。

You know you could have all the money in the world, but if you don't know how to run the place, you get taken.

你知道你可以拥有世界上所有的钱，但如果你不知道如何经营这个地方，你就会被骗。

And you know they knew how to look for the guys who were going to take them.

你知道他们知道如何寻找那些想要带走他们的人。

They knew how to deal with the guys who were going to take them.

他们知道如何对付那些要带走他们的人。

And they dealt a little differently than the people today who are worried about constitutional rights and all that other kind of stuff.

他们的处理方式与今天担心宪法权利和所有其他问题的人们略有不同。

They, they dealt in their own way.

他们，他们以自己的方式行事。

Narrator : Over the years, Dalitz had also proved a committed city builder- spearheading countless civic projects and contributing thousands to local charities.

旁白：多年来，达利茨也被证明是一位忠诚的城市建设者——领导了无数的公民项目，并向当地慈善机构捐款数千美元。

As a journalist would later put it: "In Cleveland, Moe Dalitz was a bootlegger; but in Las Vegas, he stands as an elder statesman.

正如一名记者后来所说：“在克利夫兰，莫·达利茨是一名走私者；但在拉斯维加斯，他是一位元老政治家。

.

。

.".

.”。

John L.

约翰·L。

Smith : If Las Vegas has a forefather, in my opinion, the key player is Dalitz.

史密斯：如果说拉斯维加斯有一个祖先，在我看来，关键人物就是达利茨。

He was a sharp operator and a tremendous guy with a pencil.

他是一位敏锐的操作员，也是一位善于用铅笔的人。

I mean he was a great accountant.

我的意思是他是一位出色的会计师。

He had diversified business, he understood at an early age that it couldn't always be about bootlegging and gambling.

他的生意很多元化，他从小就明白，生意不能总是与走私和赌博有关。

You have to diversify.

你必须多元化。

Dalitz was spreading out, was buying real estate, was getting into other businesses.

达利茨正在扩张，正在购买房地产，正在进入其他行业。

Now were all the businesses legitimate?

现在所有的生意都是合法的吗？

No, I don't think so, but the bottom line was is that Dalitz was well ahead of the curve.

不，我不这么认为，但最重要的是，达利茨远远领先于潮流。

Narrator : Now, in the fall of 1960, Dalitz was looking to capitalize on what promised to be the city's biggest boom yet.

旁白：现在，1960 年秋天，达利茨正在寻求利用这座城市迄今为止最大的繁荣。

That September, United Airlines had introduced non-stop jetliner service to Las Vegas, slashing travel time from the east coast in half and instantly making Sin City accessible to millions of Americans who otherwise would never have made the trip.

那年 9 月，美国联合航空公司推出了直飞拉斯维加斯的喷气式飞机服务，将东海岸的旅行时间缩短了一半，立即使数百万本来永远不会去拉斯维加斯的美国人可以到达罪恶之城。

Suddenly, Dalitz needed more hotel rooms -- and for that, he needed cash.

突然，达利茨需要更多的酒店房间 - 为此，他需要现金。

Nick Pileggi, Author : Las Vegas gets so popular, gets so big, that the original people who put it together could no longer put it together, they didn't have the money to make it expand the way it wanted to expand.

尼克·皮勒吉 (Nick Pileggi)，作者：拉斯维加斯变得如此受欢迎，变得如此之大，以至于最初将其组合在一起的人们无法再将其组合在一起，他们没有钱让它按照自己想要的方式扩展。

The men from Cleveland, the men from New York, they don't have that kind of money.

来自克利夫兰的人，来自纽约的人，他们没有那么多钱。

Hal Rothman, Historian : Mobsters built hotels with what I call shoebox money.

哈尔·罗斯曼（Hal Rothman），历史学家：黑帮用我所谓的鞋盒钱建造了酒店。

They went to each other and said, 'I'm building a hotel in Las Vegas, do you want to buy a share?

他们互相走过去说：‘我正在拉斯维加斯建一家酒店，你想买股吗？

It's $50,000.

这是 50,000 美元。

The other guy pulls a shoebox from under the bed, opens it up and counts him out $50,000, cash.

另一个人从床底下拿出一个鞋盒，打开它，数出了他 5 万美元的现金。

It got to the point that hotels were too expensive to do that.

事实证明，酒店太贵了，无法做到这一点。

You simply couldn't get enough guys with $50,000 to build a 12 million dollar hotel.

你根本找不到足够多的人用 50,000 美元来建造一座价值 1200 万美元的酒店。

So they needed another source of capital.

所以他们需要另一个资金来源。

Narrator : Dalitz knew just the person to tap: his longtime associate, Jimmy Hoffa, President of the notoriously corrupt Teamsters Union.

旁白：达利茨只知道该敲诈的人：他的长期同事吉米·霍法，臭名昭著的腐败卡车司机工会主席。

The previous year, Dalitz had convinced Hoffa to invest the union's pension funds in a new hospital for Las Vegas.

去年，达利茨说服霍法将工会的养老基金投资于拉斯维加斯的一家新医院。

Now, he urged the union leader to make similar investments on the Strip.

现在，他敦促工会领导人在拉斯维加斯大道上进行类似的投资。

"If Moe told [the Teamsters] to make the loan," said one observer, "they made the loan."

“如果莫告诉[卡车司机]贷款，”一位观察家说，“他们就会贷款。”

Over the next several years, Hoffa would draw on the pooled retirement savings of nearly 200,000 union truckers and longshoreman to finance a spate of hotel expansion projects, including a nine-story addition at the Desert Inn.

在接下来的几年里，霍法利用近 200,000 名工会卡车司机和码头工人的退休储蓄来资助一系列酒店扩建项目，其中包括在沙漠旅馆 (Desert Inn) 扩建九层楼。

Teamsters money would also underwrite construction of a Greco-Roman-themed resort called Caesars Palace -- purposely spelled without an apostrophe to signal that the place belonged not to a single Caesar, but to anyone who wanted to spend a weekend living like a Roman emperor.

卡车司机的钱还将用于建造一个名为凯撒宫的希腊罗马主题度假村——故意拼写时不加撇号，以表明这个地方不属于某个凯撒，而是属于任何想像罗马皇帝一样度过周末的人。

More hotel rooms, more guests, more money dropped at the tables and slots -- all of it would eventually add up to a dramatic spike in the "skim," the undeclared and untaxed earnings that were collected in the counting rooms and then distributed among the scores of "connected" owners who held hidden interests in Las Vegas.

更多的酒店房间、更多的客人、更多的钱投入到赌桌和老虎机上——所有这些最终都会导致“撇脂”的急剧增加，即在计票室收集的未申报和未纳税的收入，然后分配给在拉斯维加斯拥有隐藏利益的数十个“有联系”的业主。

Nick Pileggi : Every city had its own guys and that's the way they did it, you could see where the money came, for each of those casinos.

Nick Pileggi：每个城市都有自己的人，他们就是这样做的，你可以看到每个赌场的钱来自哪里。

The Dunes was Saint Louis.

沙丘就是圣路易斯。

The Desert Inn was Cleveland.

沙漠旅馆是克利夫兰。

Stardust was Chicago.

星尘是芝加哥。

John L.

约翰·L。

Smith : It was a town that had the...the front end guys, the smiling guys with the, with the wild sport coats and then it had the other folks who came to town and of course anyone in the lobby on a Friday night might notice that a crew of New York mob guys came in and got all the penthouse suites and that were...they were treated very, very well.

史密斯：那是一个小镇，有……前端的家伙，穿着狂野运动外套的微笑的家伙，然后还有其他人来到镇上，当然，周五晚上大厅里的任何人都可能会注意到一群纽约黑帮进来并得到了所有的顶层套房，而且……他们受到了非常非常好的待遇。

Now were they just gambling, of course not, they were, they were watching their store.

现在他们只是赌博吗，当然不是，他们是，他们在监视他们的商店。

Narrator : With Teamsters money at their disposal, it looked as though Dalitz and his underworld cronies had found a way to stay on top.

旁白：有了卡车司机的资金，达利茨和他的黑社会亲信似乎找到了保持领先地位的方法。

And with hundreds of millions of dollars in gambling revenues at stake, Nevada authorities left them there.

由于数亿美元的赌博收入受到威胁，内华达州当局将其留在那里。

"We have no gangsters here," a state assemblyman insisted.

“我们这里没有歹徒，”一名州议员坚称。

"We have qualified businessmen who are in a recognized industry -- gaming."

“我们拥有来自公认行业——游戏行业的合格商人。”

Then, in early 1961, President John F.

然后，在 1961 年初，约翰·肯尼迪 (John F.

Kennedy appointed his brother Bobby to the post of U.

肯尼迪任命他的兄弟鲍比担任美国总统。

S.

S。

Attorney General.

总检察长。

"A shudder went through [Nevada,]" one reporter remembered, at the prospect that "the new administration might crack down on hoodlums."

一位记者回忆道，一想到“新政府可能会打击流氓”，“[内华达州]不寒而栗”。

Las Vegans had good reason to fear Robert F.

拉斯维加斯人有充分的理由害怕罗伯特·F.

Kennedy.

肯尼迪.

Just a few years earlier, Kennedy had served as chief counsel to a highly-publicized Senate investigation into the alleged links between crime syndicates and American labor unions, and he had watched in disgust as all but a handful of the nation's most audacious racketeers got away.

就在几年前，肯尼迪曾担任参议院一项广为人知的调查的首席法律顾问，该调查旨在调查犯罪集团与美国工会之间所谓的联系，他厌恶地看着美国最大胆的敲诈勒索者除了少数人之外的所有人都逃脱了。

His loathing for Jimmy Hoffa, in particular, had since become legendary.

尤其是他对吉米·霍法的厌恶，从此成为传奇。

Nick Pileggi : Kennedy felt that unions had to be protecting people, not exploiting them.

尼克·皮勒吉：肯尼迪认为工会必须保护人民，而不是剥削他们。

So I think he emotionally responded to that.

所以我认为他对此做出了情感上的反应。

The teamsters union was very strongly influenced by wise guys from different cities.

卡车司机联盟受到来自不同城市的智者的强烈影响。

The influence that the mob guys had over that pension fund was enormous, and I think that outraged Kennedy.

黑帮对养老基金的影响是巨大的，我认为这激怒了肯尼迪。

Narrator : Now, as Attorney General, he vowed to collar those who had so far eluded the government's grasp.

旁白：现在，作为司法部长，他发誓要逮捕那些迄今为止逃脱政府控制的人。

Organized crime syndicates, he told his staff, had become an "insidious rot.

他告诉他的工作人员，有组织的犯罪集团已经成为“阴险的腐烂组织”。

.

。

.

。

infesting the nation's innermost core." And the putrid source was the casinos of Las Vegas -- or as one Justice Department aide called them, the Syndicate's "federal reserve."

侵扰这个国家的最核心。”腐败的源头是拉斯维加斯的赌场——或者正如司法部的一位助手所说，辛迪加的“联邦储备系统”。

Nick Pileggi : The FBI and the IRS could never accept the fact that a man like Moe Dalitz who was illegal in Cleveland, could get on a plane in Cleveland, come to Las Vegas, and be legal.

尼克·皮勒吉：联邦调查局和国税局永远无法接受这样一个事实：像莫·达利茨这样在克利夫兰非法的人可以在克利夫兰登上飞机，来到拉斯维加斯，并且是合法的。

The FBI and the federal government, the US Attorneys office, they felt there was something wrong with that.

联邦调查局和联邦政府、美国检察官办公室，他们认为这有问题。

You can't have one state where being illegal is legal.

不可能有一个州将非法行为视为合法行为。

It just drove them nuts.

这简直让他们抓狂。

Narrator : Over the next two years, Kennedy's Justice Department, together with the FBI and the IRS, waged an all-out war on Las Vegas -- plotting raids, planting illegal wiretaps, and scrutinizing the financial records of every casino in town.

旁白：在接下来的两年里，肯尼迪的司法部与联邦调查局和国税局一起对拉斯维加斯发动了全面战争——策划突击搜查，安装非法窃听器，并审查镇上每个赌场的财务记录。

By 1963, they had succeeded where every other federal investigation of Sin City had failed -- and had managed to publicly expose the skim.

到 1963 年，他们取得了对罪恶之城的所有其他联邦调查都失败的成功，并成功公开揭露了盗读内容。

John L.

约翰·L。

Smith : A lot of facts came out that linked the casino ownership to the five families of New York, to Chicago, to Cleveland, Kansas City, and other places.

史密斯：很多事实都表明赌场所有权与纽约、芝加哥、克利夫兰、堪萨斯城和其他地方的五个家族有关。

And the proof of history has shown that they indeed were taking money out of the casinos.

历史证明，他们确实是从赌场里拿钱的。

Narrator : For Las Vegas, it was a public relations disaster.

旁白：对于拉斯维加斯来说，这是一场公共关系灾难。

All across the country, newspapers ran story after story about the pilfering of casino profits, estimated to be at least ten million annually.

全国各地的报纸都在刊登有关赌场利润被盗的报道，估计每年至少有一千万美元。

A book-length exposé called The Green Felt Jungle blasted the nation's pleasure capital for its corruption-- and became a runaway bestseller overnight.

一本名为《绿毡丛林》的长篇揭露书猛烈抨击了这个国家的娱乐之都的腐败，并一夜之间成为畅销书。

Meanwhile, the Justice Department handed out indictments like penny candy -- hauling in some 600 organized crime figures in 1963 alone.

与此同时，司法部像糖果一样发出起诉书——仅 1963 年就抓获了约 600 名有组织犯罪分子。

Eventually, Jimmy Hoffa would find himself headed for the penitentiary with a jury tampering conviction on his head, and Moe Dalitz would be battling charges of tax evasion.

最终，吉米·霍法发现自己​​因陪审团篡改定罪而被送进监狱，而莫·达利茨则面临逃税指控。

To some longtime residents of Las Vegas, "the boys," as Dalitz and his friends were known, may well have seemed beneficent city fathers.

对于拉斯维加斯的一些长期居民来说，达利茨和他的朋友们所称的“男孩们”很可能看起来是仁慈的城市之父。

But in the face of relentless government scrutiny, the city's alliance with mobsters was also fast becoming a liability.

但面对政府无情的审查，该市与黑帮的联盟也很快成为一种负担。

Josh Kennedy : Watching TV for about a year it all seems Vegas, Vegas, Vegas, I just wanted to come out here, become a blackjack dealer.

乔什·肯尼迪：看了大约一年的电视，一切似乎都是维加斯、维加斯、维加斯，我只是想来到这里，成为一名二十一点庄家。

I was waiting tables back home, got tired of it.

我在家里当服务员，厌倦了。

So I decided to come out here to be a dealer, make a bunch of money.

所以我决定来这里当经销商，赚很多钱。

Image in my head was just that everyone was getting rich real quick.

我脑海中的形象就是每个人都很快变得富有。

I came out here I thought I was going to be a millionaire within my first ten minutes of me coming into Vegas.

当我来到这里时，我以为我会在进入维加斯的头十分钟内成为百万富翁。

They hype it up so much on TV that you know, you can't help but come out here.

他们在电视上大肆宣传，你知道，你情不自禁地来到这里。

It's a challenge, I don't know anybody out here.

这是一个挑战，我不认识这里的任何人。

Back home I knew a lot of people, I could get a job real easily.

回到家我认识了很多人，我很容易找到工作。

Out here I had to actually use my resources, my skills to get a job.

在这里，我必须实际利用我的资源、我的技能才能找到工作。

I got a job at O'Shea's, which is a breaking house for new dealers coming straight out of school.

我在 O'Shea's 找到了一份工作，那是刚从学校毕业的新经销商的破房子。

My shift is eight o'clock at night till four in the morning.

我的轮班时间是晚上八点到凌晨四点。

I don't mind, cause I'm making money.

我不介意，因为我要赚钱。

I mean, it's not even really considered a job.

我的意思是，它甚至不算是一份工作。

I mean it is, but I don't break a sweat, I don't do anything, sit there and make sure everyone's playing alright, keep track of the money that's right there and that's pretty much it.

我的意思是，但我不会流汗，我不会做任何事情，坐在那里确保每个人都玩得很好，跟踪那里的钱，仅此而已。

Vegas is unique.

维加斯是独一无二的。

It's different than every other city.

它与其他城市不同。

It's like it's own little country.

就像是自己的小国家一样。

Laws here are so slack, it's not like anywhere else in the United States.

这里的法律非常宽松，与美国其他地方不同。

You come out here you can be a totally different person, you don't have to be who you were back home.

你来到这里，你可以成为一个完全不同的人，你不必是原来的你。

It's a transit town, so you meet someone, you see them for two days, if that, and they're gone.

这是一个中转城镇，所以你遇到某人，你会见他们两天，如果那样的话，他们就消失了。

You don't ever see them again.

你再也见不到他们了。

It's why I kind of like it.

这就是为什么我有点喜欢它。

I'm trying to go move back home sometime, next couple years, start a business.

我想在接下来的几年里搬回家，开始做生意。

I don't want to be out in Vegas all my life, I mean I like the town but you can easily get trapped inside of Vegas, do all the things that you're not supposed to do.

我不想一辈子都待在维加斯，我的意思是我喜欢这个小镇，但你很容易被困在维加斯里面，做所有你不应该做的事情。

Stay focused and then leave.

保持专注，然后离开。

Just takin' Vegas like Vegas takes everyone else.

就像维加斯对待其他人一样对待维加斯。

Narrator : In the early hours of Thanksgiving morning 1966, a private train rattled into a desolate crossing in North Las Vegas.

旁白：1966年感恩节清晨，一列私人火车嘎嘎驶入北拉斯维加斯的一个荒凉十字路口。

From the trailing car emerged one of the wealthiest men in the world -- the legendary billionaire recluse, Howard Robard Hughes.

从尾随的汽车中出现了世界上最富有的人之一——传奇的亿万富翁隐士霍华德·罗巴德·休斯。

In his youth, Hughes had been a full-fledged American celebrity: the dashing movie producer whose exploits had provided endless fodder for gossip columns, the record-breaking aviator who had been honored with a hero's ticker tape parade.

年轻时，休斯是一位成熟的美国名人：一位风度翩翩的电影制片人，其功绩为八卦专栏提供了无尽的素材；一位打破纪录的飞行员，曾荣获英雄的行情磁带游行荣誉。

But though only a few people knew it, that man was long gone.

但尽管只有少数人知道，那个人却早已不在了。

Plagued by chronic back pain and hopelessly addicted to narcotics, Hughes had spent much of the last three years in near-total seclusion, his mind careening between rationality and full-blown dementia.

休斯深受慢性背痛的困扰，而且对麻醉品上瘾，近乎完全与世隔绝，他的思想在理性和全面痴呆之间摇摆不定。

Now, he had come to Las Vegas, his old stomping ground, seeking tax shelter for his riches and refuge from the hounding attention of the press.

现在，他来到了拉斯维加斯，他的故乡，为自己的财富寻求避税，并躲避媒体的关注。

Accompanied by a phalanx of beefy Mormon caretakers, he took up residence at Moe Dalitz's place, the famed Desert Inn, where an old acquaintance, Las Vegas Sun publisher Hank Greenspun, had reserved the entire eighth and ninth floors for his personal use.

在一群健壮的摩门教徒看门人的陪同下，他在莫·达利茨的住所——著名的沙漠旅馆住了下来，那里的老熟人、《拉斯维加斯太阳报》出版商汉克·格林斯潘将整个八楼和九楼保留给他个人使用。

One week passed.

一周过去了。

Then two.

然后是两个。

But to Dalitz's dismay, Hughes and his entourage showed no signs of moving on.

但令达利茨沮丧的是，休斯和他的随行人员没有表现出继续前进的迹象。

Brian Greenspun : Never gambled and his aides were all Mormon, so they didn't gamble and they didn't drink and they didn't tip, because they...you know they didn't need any of the services.

布莱恩·格林斯潘：从不赌博，他的助手都是摩门教徒，所以他们不赌博，不喝酒，也不给小费，因为他们……你知道他们不需要任何服务。

So it was a, it was a bust for the hotel.

所以这对酒店来说是一个半身像。

So around Christmas time Moe called my dad and said, you got to get this no good bum out of here, because my high rollers are coming in, I need those suites.

所以在圣诞节前后，莫打电话给我爸爸说，你得把这个混蛋赶出去，因为我的豪客要进来了，我需要那些套房。

And in the middle of that negotiation back and forth, over a period of a few days, either my dad or someone said well why don't you just buy the hotel?

在反复谈判的过程中，在几天的时间里，我爸爸或某人说，你为什么不直接买下酒店呢？

Narrator : Hughes's bid for the Desert Inn could not have come at better time.

旁白：休斯竞购沙漠旅馆的时机恰到好处。

Although the Cold War defense boom had boosted employment at nearby Nellis Air Force Base and the sprawling atomic test site to the north of town, and Las Vegas's annual tourist tally was holding steady, the furor over the mob had begun to slow the city's roll.

尽管冷战时期的国防热潮增加了附近的内利斯空军基地和城北庞大的原子试验场的就业，而且拉斯维加斯的年度游客人数保持稳定，但暴民的愤怒已经开始减缓这座城市的发展。

Hughes was precisely what Las Vegas needed: a well-respected entrepreneur with one of the biggest bankrolls on the planet and an image that could instantly redeem the city from the stigma of organized crime.

休斯正是拉斯维加斯所需要的：一位受人尊敬的企业家，拥有地球上最大的资金之一，以及能够立即使这座城市摆脱有组织犯罪耻辱的形象。

Seizing the opportunity, Governor Paul Laxalt urged the Gaming Control Board to approve Hughes's license application -- in spite of the fact that he had failed to appear in person, had declined to submit to a financial background check, and had refused to be photographed or fingerprinted as required by Nevada law.

州长保罗·拉克索尔特抓住这个机会，敦促博彩控制委员会批准休斯的执照申请，尽管他没有亲自出庭，拒绝接受财务背景调查，并且拒绝按照内华达州法律的要求拍照或采集指纹。

John L.

约翰·L。

Smith : It's not too bold a statement to say that if he did not own the governor's office during the Laxalt administration, he certainly leased it.

史密斯：如果说他在拉克索尔特政府期间没有拥有州长办公室，那么他肯定租用了它，这并不算太大胆的说法。

He got favors that no one else got, and he was a guy with a past that probably should have been scrutinized, but his presence was so important that it superceded a background check.

他得到了其他人没有得到的好处，而且他的过去可能应该受到审查，但他的存在是如此重要，以至于它取代了背景调查。

Narrator : On April Fools Day, 1967, official title to the Desert Inn passed from Moe Dalitz and his partners to Howard Hughes.

旁白：1967 年愚人节，沙漠旅馆的正式所有权从莫·达利茨 (Moe Dalitz) 和他的合伙人手中传给了霍华德·休斯 (Howard Hughes)。

"I have decided this once and for all," Hughes declared in a memo to his aides.

“我已经一劳永逸地决定了，”休斯在给助手的一份备忘录中宣称。

"I want to acquire even more hotels and .

“我想收购更多的酒店和。

.

。

.

。

make Las Vegas as trustworthy and respectable as the New York Stock Exchange."

让拉斯维加斯像纽约证券交易所一样值得信赖和尊重。”

Cloistered round-the-clock in his makeshift headquarters, the eccentric billionaire now began to collect Strip hotels and casinos as if they were snow globes or stamps: the Frontier and the Sands and the Castaways; the Silver Slipper, a small casino across from the Desert Inn, whose revolving marquee-topper reportedly disturbed his sleep; and the massive Landmark Hotel, which officially opened in July 1969.

这位古怪的亿万富翁全天候待在他的临时总部里，现在开始收集拉斯维加斯大道上的酒店和赌场，就像它们是雪球或邮票一样：边境、金沙和漂流者；银鞋赌场是沙漠旅馆对面的一家小赌场，据报道，赌场的旋转帐篷扰乱了他的睡眠；以及 1969 年 7 月正式开业的大型地标酒店。

Archival Newsclip : Despite Hughes' reputation for shelling out without stepping out, many of his guests are still hoping for even a glimpse of their elusive host.

档案新闻剪辑：尽管休斯以不出门就花钱而闻名，但他的许多客人仍然希望能看到他们难以捉摸的主人。

But they won't find that billion dollar baby in this five and ten cent store.

但他们不会在这家五美分和十美分的商店里找到那个价值十亿美元的宝贝。

Elaine Wynn : He was the wizard of Oz.

伊莱恩·韦恩：他是奥兹国的巫师。

Ya never saw the man, ya never heard the man.

你从未见过这个人，你从未听过这个人。

Ya saw his minions and you weren't even sure if they saw the man.

你看到了他的爪牙，你甚至不确定他们是否看到了这个人。

And it was a very weird, weird deal.

这是一笔非常奇怪的交易。

What you felt was his money.

你感受到的就是他的钱。

Nick Pileggi : The guys who created Las Vegas, the originals, they were powerful and rich, but they could never cash out, they could not walk away from that profit.

Nick Pileggi：创建拉斯维加斯的人，最初的人，他们强大而富有，但他们永远无法兑现，他们无法摆脱利润。

They were now in their sixties and seventies, they want to leave some money to their grandkids and their families.

他们现在已经六七十岁了，他们想给孙子和家人留下一些钱。

Howard Hughes comes in with his accountants and they could finally get rid of it, they could cash out.

霍华德休斯和他的会计师一起进来，他们终于可以摆脱它，他们可以兑现。

Governor Paul Laxalt, archival footage : Hughes has by buying out certain hotels retired some of our more dubious characters, for which we're very grateful.

州长保罗·拉克索尔特（Paul Laxalt），档案片段：休斯通过买断某些酒店，让我们一些比较可疑的人物退休了，对此我们非常感激。

Narrator : To the outside world, it looked as though all of the mobsters were gone -- but that was just another bit of Las Vegas's dazzling sleight of hand.

旁白：在外界看来，所有的黑帮似乎都消失了——但这只是拉斯维加斯的又一令人眼花缭乱的花招。

Since no one in Hughes's organization had any idea how to run a gambling operation, they had kept most of the mobbed-up managers in place.

由于休斯的组织中没有人知道如何经营赌博业务，因此他们保留了大部分围观的经理。

Under their direction, the skim had continued just as before -- only now Hughes was being defrauded along with the IRS.

在他们的指导下，窃取行为像以前一样继续进行——只是现在休斯和国税局一起被骗了。

In casino parlance, it was known as "cleaning out the sucker."

用赌场的话说，这被称为“清理傻瓜”。

By the time the extent of the plunder was finally made clear, Hughes's buying spree had hit a snag.

当掠夺的范围最终明朗时，休斯的收购狂潮遇到了障碍。

Barred from further purchases by a pending anti-trust suit and rapidly descending into madness, Hughes had his aides spirit him away from Las Vegas on Thanksgiving 1970, exactly four years to the day after his arrival.

由于悬而未决的反垄断诉讼，休斯被禁止进一步购买，并迅速陷入疯狂，1970 年感恩节，即他抵达拉斯维加斯的第四天，休斯让他的助手把他带离了拉斯维加斯。

Governor Paul Laxalt, archival footage : Mr. Hughes is on a delayed vacation, it's been delayed for fourteen months and he decided he was entitled to this vacation after four years in the ninth floor of the Desert Inn.

州长保罗·拉克索尔特，档案录像：休斯先生正在推迟休假，已经推迟了十四个月，在沙漠旅馆九楼待了四年后，他决定自己有权享受这个假期。

Man : We have personal confirmation from Mr. Hughes, personal confirmation he's going to return to Nevada because he's become a very valued and respected citizen of this state.

男士：我们收到了休斯先生的个人确认，他将返回内华达州，因为他已成为该州一位非常有价值和受人尊敬的公民。

Narrator : Although many of his properties in town would remain in his company's possession for years to come, Hughes never did return.

旁白：尽管休斯在镇上的许多财产在未来几年仍归他的公司所有，但休斯再也没有回来。

But his brief, bizarre sojourn had nevertheless changed Las Vegas forever.

但他短暂而奇异的逗留却永远改变了拉斯维加斯。

Man, archival footage : We needed a man like Mr. Hughes.

伙计，档案片段：我们需要像休斯先生这样的人。

We've had some very bad unfavorable national publicity.

我们经历过一些非常糟糕的、不利的全国性宣传。

Since coming here our national publicity has been far more favorable.

自从来到这里以来，我们的国家宣传变得更加有利。

He's given us what we deem to be almost instant respectability.

他给了我们几乎是立即的尊重。

John L.

约翰·L。

Smith : I think Howard Hughes played an enormous role in the evolution of Las Vegas.

史密斯：我认为霍华德休斯在拉斯维加斯的发展中发挥了巨大的作用。

Uh, his man, Bob Maheu, says that Howard Hughes didn't make the new Las Vegas, but he got it ready.

呃，他的手下鲍勃·马休说，新的拉斯维加斯不是霍华德·休斯创造的，但他已经准备好了。

By bringing a brand name that was not Murder Inc. into Las Vegas, Howard Hughes helped separate the community from its past.

通过将谋杀公司以外的品牌名称引入拉斯维加斯，霍华德·休斯帮助该社区与过去分开。

Cookie Citro, House Mom : Vegas used to be mobsters, money and movie stars.

Cookie Citro，家庭妈妈：维加斯曾经是黑帮、金钱和电影明星。

It's not like it used to be.

这不像以前那样了。

Now, its corporate, it's a kiddy land.

现在，它是公司，这是一个儿童乐园。

Everyone comes with their hundred-dollar bills, with their shorts and gym shoes and T-shirts and they bring their children and they go on roller-coasters on top of the casinos.

每个人都带着百元大钞，穿着短裤、运动鞋和T恤，带着孩子，在赌场顶上坐过山车。

I came to Vegas in 1975, the disco days, the wonderful days, and you know, I wish I could turn back the hands of time, I really do.

我于 1975 年来到维加斯，那是迪斯科的日子，美好的日子，你知道，我希望我能让时间之手倒流，我真的这么做。

When I first got here I was a cocktail waitress and now I deal a lot of the games.

当我第一次来到这里时，我是一名鸡尾酒服务员，现在我负责很多游戏。

Not all of them, but most of them.

不是全部，而是大多数。

But it's not a very good job anymore like it used to be.

但这不再像以前那样是一份很好的工作了。

A friend of mine works in the VIP room at the strip-tease and they needed another house-mom, so I says, I'm willing.

我的一个朋友在脱衣舞厅的贵宾室工作，他们需要另一位家庭妈妈，所以我说，我愿意。

I'm the den mother.

我是书房妈妈。

A lot of the girls are detached from their families.

很多女孩都脱离了家庭。

Some girls' families don't even know that they work there, that they're dancers.

有些女孩的家人甚至不知道她们在那里工作，也不知道她们是舞者。

A lot of them say that they're cocktail waitresses somewhere.

他们中的很多人都说自己是某个地方的鸡尾酒女服务员。

You know, I cook for them, that's one of the biggest things.

你知道，我为他们做饭，这是最重要的事情之一。

They come in and when they see me their faces light up, they go, "ooh food!"

他们进来时，当他们看到我时，他们的脸都亮了起来，他们说：“哦，食物！”

Cookie Citro : They're not there to be touched and fondled, most of the girls.

Cookie Citro：大多数女孩都不是为了被触摸和爱抚的。

They're dancers, they're not prostitutes.

她们是舞者，不是妓女。

There are some that do their own little thing, but on the whole there's a lot of good girls.

有一些只做自己的小事，但总体来说还是有很多好女孩的。

There are codes in the striptease and in all the strip places, you cannot do grinding, you cannot let touching of any body parts.

脱衣舞里有规定，在所有脱衣舞的地方，不能磨蹭，不能让身体任何部位接触。

Vice comes in to check periodically.

Vice 定期过来检查。

If they see something the girl gets ticketed, the manager gets ticketed.

如果他们看到女孩收到罚单，经理也会收到罚单。

They actually have to go to court, it's like a ticket.

他们实际上必须上法庭，这就像一张罚单。

Girl 1 : Now I can climb the pole barefoot, no problem.

女孩1：现在我可以赤脚爬柱子了，没问题。

Girl 2 : Oh yeah, I can too, definitely.

女孩 2：哦，是的，我也可以，绝对可以。

Girl 1 : It took me like a year to be able to do that.

女孩 1：我花了大约一年的时间才做到这一点。

Girl 2 : It's a year, I tell everybody, it takes, it takes a year to learn how to dance.

女孩2：这是一年，我告诉大家，需要、需要一年来学习如何跳舞。

I mean just even know how to move your hips and how to be sex-, how to look sex-, how to walk in these shoes sexy?

我的意思是，甚至知道如何移动你的臀部，如何性感，如何看起来性感，如何穿着这些鞋子性感地走路？

They had to tell me, one foot, you gotta put one foot right in front of the other one they tell me, and that's how you learn how to walk.

他们必须告诉我，一只脚，你必须把一只脚放在他们告诉我的另一只脚的前面，这就是你学习如何走路的方法。

Girl 2 : And now I'm addicted, I love it.

女孩 2：现在我上瘾了，我喜欢它。

It's bad, it's like a drug, it is.

这很糟糕，就像毒品一样。

Stripping is like a drug, it's addicting.

脱衣就像毒品一样，会让人上瘾。

Girl 1 : Every time I try to find another job I always come back, always.

女孩 1：每次我试图找另一份工作时，我总是会回来，总是。

Girl 2 : Oh yeah ,them eight dollar an hour jobs?

女孩 2：哦，是的，他们每小时八美元的工作吗？

Girl 1 : You get your paycheck and you're like, I made this in one night, I made more than this in one night.

女孩1：你拿到薪水后，你会想，我一晚上就做了这个，我一晚上就赚了更多。

Four or five photo-ops for two weeks and that's all I get?

两周拍四五张照片就够了？

Cookie Citro : I have seen girls fall into the drugs, into the alcoholism, um, they're more interested in that, a lot of their money goes towards that, and you know what?

Cookie Citro：我见过女孩陷入毒品、酗酒，嗯，她们对此更感兴趣，她们的很多钱都花在了这上面，你知道吗？

Your heart goes out to them almost.

你的心几乎与他们同在。

You know, you want to know sometimes, what makes them go in that direction, what happens that they can't follow a straight line.

你知道，有时你想知道，是什么让他们朝那个方向前进，如果他们不能走直线，会发生什么。

I worry about most of them, I really do.

我担心他们中的大多数人，我真的很担心。

Paul Goldberger, Architecture Critic : You know for me, the insane, brazen, wildness of the whole thing is always very exhilarating when I first get there, and then because it is sort of superficial, and it is without real substance behind it, it wears thin very quickly.

Paul Goldberger，建筑评论家：对我来说，你知道，当我第一次到达那里时，整个事情的疯狂、厚颜无耻、狂野总是非常令人兴奋，然后因为它有点肤浅，并且背后没有真正的实质，所以它很快就会消失。

It's kind of as if you were force fed chocolate mousse.

这有点像你被强行喂食巧克力慕斯。

First taste is really good, but then there comes a time when you actually want some nutrition.

第一口味道确实不错，但后来你真的需要一些营养了。

Narrator : By the late 1960's, the primly conservative values of post-war America were folding faster than a poker player with a busted hand.

旁白：到了 1960 年代末，战后美国一贯保守的价值观比一个手受伤的扑克玩家更快地崩溃。

Over the previous decade, the nation had been assailed by protests and assassinations and government lies, and millions of Americans were now turning their backs on the status quo.

在过去的十年里，这个国家遭受了抗议、暗杀和政府谎言的袭击，数百万美国人现在背弃了现状。

In Sin City, the turmoil barely registered.

在罪恶之城，骚乱几乎没有发生。

Paul Goldberger : The 60's were about serious things and Las Vegas was about escaping from serious things.

Paul Goldberger：60 年代是严肃的事情，而拉斯维加斯则是逃避严肃的事情。

And Las Vegas was much less on the map in the 60's.

六十年代，拉斯维加斯在地图上的知名度要低得多。

I don't think it's that Las Vegas was too busy to pay attention to the 60's, I think it was that the 60's were too busy to pay attention to Las Vegas.

我不认为是拉斯维加斯太忙而没有关注 60 年代，我认为是 60 年代太忙而没有关注拉斯维加斯。

And so it kind of just went chugging along.

就这样，它就这样一路嘎嘎地走着。

Narrator : Of course, the times were changing in Las Vegas too -- but they were headed in the opposite direction.

旁白：当然，拉斯维加斯的时代也在发生变化——但他们正朝着相反的方向前进。

In the rest of America, the goal was to get rid of the establishment.

在美国其他地区，目标是摆脱当权派。

In Las Vegas, the establishment had only just arrived -- in the form of corporations, like Ramada and Hilton, who had finally decided to take Howard Hughes's lead and cash in on the lucrative casino business.

在拉斯维加斯，这种机构刚刚以公司的形式出现，比如华美达和希尔顿，他们最终决定继承霍华德·休斯的领导地位，从利润丰厚的赌场业务中获利。

Marc Cooper : The cultural revolution kicked the doors open, inadvertently, for the mainstreaming of gambling in a culture where Lenny Bruce and Richard Prior replaced Bob Hope and George Burns.

马克·库珀：文化革命无意中为赌博在莱尼·布鲁斯和理查德·普赖尔取代鲍勃·霍普和乔治·伯恩斯的文化中主流化打开了大门。

Then you have a cultural opening and people who make money off of culture say, hmm maybe gambling and floor shows, and even stuff that has a kind of sexual connotation to it, maybe we could put that on our commercial agenda.

然后你有一个文化开放，从文化中赚钱的人会说，嗯，也许赌博和表演，甚至是带有性暗示的东西，也许我们可以把它放在我们的商业议程上。

Maybe we can invest in that and people aren't gonna go running away with their hands over their eyes.

也许我们可以对此进行投资，人们就不会蒙着眼睛逃跑。

Elaine Wynn : The positive for Las Vegas was we finally were getting access to capital.

Elaine Wynn：对于拉斯维加斯来说，积极的一面是我们终于获得了资本。

It had been not the case here until the age of Howard Hughes and slightly thereafter.

直到霍华德·休斯时代以及之后不久，这里的情况并非如此。

So there was very, again another liberating move to be in Nevada at that time, because all of a sudden doors were opening.

因此，当时在内华达州又发生了一次非常解放的举动，因为大门突然打开了。

Narrator : Now that Wall Street had come to Sodom and Gomorrah, there was no longer any reason to put up with the mob -- or their questionable business practices.

旁白：既然华尔街已经来到了所多玛和蛾摩拉，我们就没有理由再容忍这些暴徒——或者他们可疑的商业行为。

Archival Newsreel, Dan Rather : The Justice Department today announced the indictment of fifteen men, some said to be members of organized crime for skimming more than two million dollars from casinos in Las Vegas over nine years.

档案新闻片，丹·拉瑟：司法部今天宣布起诉 15 名男子，其中一些人据说是有组织犯罪的成员，罪名是在 9 年间从拉斯维加斯的赌场盗取了超过 200 万美元。

Narrator : Over the next several years, Nevada authorities would investigate a half-dozen Las Vegas casinos, and, working in concert with the U.

旁白：在接下来的几年里，内华达州当局将调查六家拉斯维加斯赌场，并与美国政府合作。

S.

S。

Justice Department and the IRS, forcibly sever their ties to organized crime.

司法部和国税局强行切断与有组织犯罪的联系。

By the mid-eighties, the last of the mobsters would be gone from the scene, and the keys to Sin City would have passed into the hands of corporate America.

到八十年代中期，最后一批黑帮将从现场消失，罪恶之城的钥匙将落入美国企业界的手中。

Patricia Cunningham, Talk show host : You'll find many people who will tell you when they look back, they liked Las Vegas better when the mob ran the city.

帕特里夏·坎宁安（Patricia Cunningham），脱口秀主持人：你会发现很多人在回首往事时会告诉你，当暴徒统治这座城市时，他们更喜欢拉斯维加斯。

People felt like agreements were always kept, a man's word was sacred.

人们觉得协议总是被遵守的，男人的话是神圣的。

You knew where you stood.

你知道自己的立场。

If you didn't cross them, they didn't cross you.

如果你不违背他们，他们也不会违背你。

John L.

约翰·L。

Smith : Las Vegas, we have to remember, was a smaller place.

史密斯：我们必须记住，拉斯维加斯是一个较小的地方。

It was a place where you could walk in to a casino and people really could know your name.

这是一个你可以走进赌场的地方，人们真的可以知道你的名字。

When people say was Las Vegas better when the mob ran it?

当人们说拉斯维加斯被暴徒统治时，它更好吗？

You know, it was smaller, you know, I mean it was a small town and now Las Vegas is a big place and that's the place where corporations work.

你知道，它更小，你知道，我的意思是它是一个小镇，现在拉斯维加斯是一个大地方，那是公司工作的地方。

Narrator : For more than two decades, Sin City had made the visitor number one.

旁白：二十多年来，罪恶之城一直把游客放在第一位。

Now, that exalted position belonged to the stockholders -- and Las Vegas's corporate managers were hell-bent on maximizing their returns.

现在，这种崇高的地位属于股东——拉斯维加斯的公司经理们一心追求最大化他们的回报。

Elaine Wynn : During the seventies we entered into an era of corporate Las Vegas.

Elaine Wynn：七十年代，我们进入了拉斯维加斯的企业时代。

Anathema to Las Vegas.

诅咒拉斯维加斯。

Now the bean counters are running the places.

现在，这些地方都是精打细算的。

They are making it dry and dreary and they have no imagination, and what happened to all of the inspirational people?

他们让一切变得枯燥、沉闷，他们没有想象力，所有鼓舞人心的人都怎么了？

Because now all they care about is the bottom line.

因为现在他们关心的只是底线。

Narrator : The nearly 30,000 members of the local Culinary Union -- the bellhops and maids, dishwashers, waiters and cooks -- were the first to feel the squeeze.

旁白：当地烹饪联盟的近 30,000 名成员——侍者、女佣、洗碗工、服务员和厨师——最先感受到了压力。

In the face of layoffs and steadily eroding benefits, the Culinary struggled mightily to hold its ground.

面对裁员和不断侵蚀的福利，烹饪公司竭尽全力坚守自己的阵地。

1976 saw the first major city-wide strike in the union local's history.

1976 年，当地工会发生了历史上第一次全市范围内的大规模罢工。

Archival Clip, Protestor : If it lasted a few days a lot of heads are going to get hurt, cause people are broke.

档案剪辑，抗议者：如果持续几天，很多人都会受伤，因为人们都破产了。

Narrator : After sixteen days, management grudgingly agreed to a wage increase and a no-lockout clause.

旁白：十六天后，管理层勉强同意加薪和不停工条款。

But in retaliation for the heavy financial losses incurred during the strike, hundreds of union members lost their jobs.

但为了报复罢工期间造成的严重经济损失，数百名工会成员失去了工作。

Dina Titus, State Senator : People don't want to come where they have to cross a picket line, or they don't want to be reminded of reality when they're in a place like Las Vegas that's based on fantasy.

迪娜·提图斯，州参议员：人们不想来到必须跨越纠察线的地方，或者当他们身处拉斯维加斯这样基于幻想的地方时，他们不想被提醒现实。

And people who are picketing, that's about as real life as you can get.

那些纠察队的人，这就是你所能得到的最真实的生活。

Narrator : Returning visitors immediately discerned a difference in the newly- corporate Las Vegas.

旁白：回国的游客立即发现了新成立的拉斯维加斯的不同之处。

The once world-class service was now notably sub-par.

曾经世界一流的服务现在明显低于标准。

Worse still, the buzzing energy of the old Sin City seemed strangely muted.

更糟糕的是，古老罪恶之城的嗡嗡声似乎出奇地安静。

Glitzy had given way to bland.

浮华已经让位于平淡无奇。

And the one-time pinnacle of nightclub cool had somehow become the last plateau on the downward slope to cultural obscurity, a place where the most cutting edge entertainment was Elvis Presley's astonishing comeback at the International Hotel.

曾经的夜店风潮不知何故已成为文化默默无闻的下坡路上的最后一个高原，这里最前沿的娱乐活动是埃尔维斯·普雷斯利 (Elvis Presley) 在国际酒店的惊人复出。

John L.

约翰·L。

Smith : We're talking about a community that had become out of step with what people thought was hip.

史密斯：我们谈论的是一个与人们认为的时尚格格不入的社区。

When things got punk, Las Vegas pulled up its polyester leisure suit and went, gee whiz fellas you want to hit the blackjack table?

当事情变得朋克时，拉斯维加斯拉起了聚酯休闲服，天啊，你们想玩二十一点吗？

Narrator : However dowdy or sleazy or tame Las Vegas may have seemed to visitors, it was still the only big city in America, outside of Reno, where a person could legally sit down at a blackjack table and throw his life savings away.

旁白：无论拉斯维加斯在游客看来多么邋遢、邋遢或温顺，它仍然是美国除了里诺之外唯一一个可以合法坐在二十一点赌桌前并挥霍毕生积蓄的大城市。

But now, even that distinction disappeared.

但现在，连这种区别也消失了。

Archival Newsreel, Cronkite On Atlantic City : The monopoly Nevada has enjoyed since 1931 as the only state to have legalized casino gambling ended today at 10am when the wheels spun, the cards dropped and the dice rolled in Atlantic City, New Jersey.

档案新闻片，克朗凯特谈大西洋城：内华达州作为唯一一个赌场赌博合法化的州，自 1931 年以来一直享有垄断地位，今天上午 10 点结束，新泽西州大西洋城的轮子开始旋转，纸牌掉落，骰子滚动。

Narrator : With some 37 million people living less than a gas tank away, Atlantic City easily won out against the four-and-half-hour airplane ride into the heart of the Mohave.

旁白：大西洋城约有 3700 万人居住在距离不到一个油箱的地方，因此轻松战胜了前往莫哈维市中心的四个半小时的飞机之旅。

Before long, the New Jersey resort's eleven casinos would be drawing more than twice as many annual visitors as Las Vegas.

不久之后，新泽西度假胜地的 11 家赌场每年吸引的游客数量将是拉斯维加斯的两倍多。

Competition, combined with a national recession that slowed tourism everywhere, sapped Las Vegas's drawing power.

竞争加上全国性的经济衰退导致各地旅游业放缓，削弱了拉斯维加斯的吸引力。

By 1980, visitation was down and Sin City was in the throes of a full-fledged identity crisis.

到 1980 年，访问量下降，罪恶之城陷入了全面的身份危机。

The losing streak only continued.

连败还在继续。

In November, the seven-year-old MGM Grand, a 26-story Hollywood-themed resort that had once drawn rapt attention as the largest hotel in the free world, made headlines yet again: this time as the site of a disastrous blaze in which 85 people died, and some 700 others were injured.

11 月，拥有 7 年历史的米高梅大酒店（MGM Grand）——一座 26 层的好莱坞主题度假酒店，曾经作为自由世界最大的酒店而备受关注——再次成为头条新闻：这次是一场灾难性的火灾，造成 85 人死亡，约 700 人受伤。

Three months later, the Las Vegas Hilton also went up in flames, cutting short the lives of eight hotel guests.

三个月后，拉斯维加斯希尔顿酒店也起火，导致八名酒店客人丧生。

John L.

约翰·L。

Smith : The fires were an international news story that had a tremendous negative impact on Las Vegas.

史密斯：火灾是一个国际新闻报道，对拉斯维加斯产生了巨大的负面影响。

That gave people a reason to doubt whether we had our game together, whether, whether we could be a modern city or whether we weren't just some kind of island or backwater.

这让人们有理由怀疑我们是否有共同的游戏，我们是否可以成为一个现代化的城市，或者我们是否不仅仅是某种岛屿或死水。

Narrator : Finally, in 1983, TWA cancelled its non-stop service between Las Vegas and New York.

旁白：最后，在1983年，环球航空公司取消了拉斯维加斯和纽约之间的直飞航班。

With a total metropolitan population now of more than 450,000 people and an annual tourist tally that still topped ten million, Las Vegas was in no danger of disappearing.

目前，大都市总人口已超过 45 万，每年游客人数仍超过 1000 万人次，拉斯维加斯没有消失的危险。

But it was tempting to conclude that its spectacular rise had reached a natural limit.

但人们很容易得出这样的结论：其惊人的崛起已经达到了自然极限。

Like an aging showgirl, Sin City seemed an unlikely candidate for a second act.

就像一个上了年纪的歌舞女郎，罪恶之城似乎不太可能成为第二幕的候选人。

Those who were inclined to count the city out, however, didn't know a thing about Las Vegas.

然而，那些倾向于将这座城市排除在外的人对拉斯维加斯一无所知。

Brian Greenspun : Whether it's gambling, you know, on the tables or in the slot machines, or whether it is this opportunity to start over, to better yourself different from where you came from, everybody's looking for that next chance in life.

布莱恩·格林斯潘：无论是赌博，你知道，在赌桌上还是在老虎机上，或者是否是重新开始的机会，让自己变得更好，与你原来的地方不同，每个人都在寻找生命中的下一次机会。

And I think Las Vegas offers it; a chance to do something different, a chance to do something better, a chance, period.

我认为拉斯维加斯提供了这一点；一个做不同事情的机会，一个做更好事情的机会，一个机会，一个时期。

Kelly Pettyjohn : I was with my baby's dad and one month he decided to fall apart, which left us with an eviction, so I thought I could come out here.

Kelly Pettyjohn：我和孩子的父亲在一起，一个月他决定分崩离析，这让我们不得不被驱逐，所以我想我可以来这里。

My son's godfather lived out here, so why not give it a try?

我儿子的教父住在这里，为什么不尝试一下呢？

Our lives fell apart in California.

我们在加州的生活支离破碎。

I was living from friend to friend week after week.

我一周又一周地从一个朋友到另一个朋友生活。

When this hardship took place and we lived out here we lived with my son's godfather, there was fourteen people in a three bedroom apartment upstairs.

当这场困难发生时，我们住在这里，和我儿子的教父住在一起，楼上的一间三居室公寓里有十四个人。

It was OK for the first couple of days but after a while it started playing on everybody's nerves.

最初几天还好，但过了一段时间，每个人都开始紧张起来。

That's why I reached out for shelters, places that I could get help.

这就是为什么我向避难所寻求帮助的原因。

Woman : Two primary goals that we focus on have to do with your desire to find full time work and permanent housing.

女性：我们关注的两个主要目标与您寻找全职工作和永久住房的愿望有关。

OK, you have already applied for tenant.

好的，您已经申请了租户。

How about food stamps?

粮票怎么样？

Kelly Pettyjohn : She said to call her back tomorrow morning.

凯莉·佩蒂约翰：她说明天早上给她回电话。

Woman : So they have given you your card, your food card?

女：所以他们给了你你的卡，你的食物卡？

Kelly Pettyjohn : Yeah, I got the Nevada Quest card.

凯莉·佩蒂约翰：是的，我拿到了内华达探索卡。

Why out here in Vegas do you need all these cards to have a job; a health card, a tenant card, a service card...

为什么在维加斯你需要所有这些卡才能找到工作？健康卡、租户卡、服务卡……

Woman : Many jobs in town are connected with casinos and people handle money and alcohol and things like that, and so in order to do that they need to do background checks on people.

女：镇上的许多工作都与赌场有关，人们处理金钱和酒精之类的事情，因此为了做到这一点，他们需要对人们进行背景调查。

Kelly Pettyjohn : OK, 'cause even to work at McDonalds you need some kind of card.

凯莉·佩蒂约翰：好的，因为即使是在麦当劳工作，你也需要某种卡。

Woman : Yeah, it's not a user-friendly town when it comes to, you know, people being able to just come to town and get a job.

女：是的，这不是一个人性化的城镇，你知道，人们可以直接进城找工作。

Woman : The most important thing for us is that you're not on the street and if you continue to find people that would take you in that doesn't last for very long.

女：对我们来说最重要的是你不在街上，如果你继续找到愿意接受你的人，那不会持续很长时间。

We get about two hundred calls a month.

我们每个月大约接到两百个电话。

Kelly Pettyjohn : I came out here thinking a job was just going to fall into my lap.

Kelly Pettyjohn：我刚来到这里，以为一份工作就会落到我的手里。

You see on TV everybody's smiling, everybody's got a job, everybody's...it seems like it works out.

你在电视上看到每个人都在微笑，每个人都有工作，每个人......看起来一切顺利。

You come from California, you come out here, thinking you're going to find a better life, a better way.

你来自加利福尼亚州，来到这里，以为你会找到更好的生活，更好的方式。

It's not exactly what it's cut out to be.

这并不完全是它的初衷。

I guess I was naïve.

我想我很天真。

Steve Wynn : Las Vegas is probably the greatest example on the planet including New York City of twenty-four hour, seven day a week, violent hand-to-hand commercial combat.

史蒂夫·韦恩：拉斯维加斯可能是包括纽约市在内的地球上每周 7 天、每天 24 小时充满暴力肉搏战的最伟大例子。

Here in this city, the players are lined up along the Rialto out there, teeth bared, lips curled back, fist clenched saying stay in my place don't go in that one.

在这座城市里，球员们沿着里亚托河排成一排，露出牙齿，嘴唇向后卷起，握紧拳头说留在我的位置上，不要进去那个地方。

Look at what I've got for you, isn't this great.

看看我给你带来了什么，这不是很棒吗？

Carnival midway, step right up.

嘉年华中途，上前一步。

See the girl turn into a gorilla.

看到女孩变成大猩猩。

See the chicken dance.

看鸡舞。

Come in here.

进来吧。

Narrator : In 1988, after a fifteen-year construction slump, a highly anticipated new resort called the Mirage began to rise up on the Strip.

旁白：1988 年，在经历了十五年的建设低迷之后，一个备受期待的名为 Mirage 的新度假村开始在拉斯维加斯大道上拔地而起。

Not since Bugsy Siegel's Flamingo nearly half a century before had a Las Vegas hotel-casino generated quite so much buzz.

自从巴格西·西格尔 (Bugsy Siegel) 的《火烈鸟》(Flamingo) 近半个世纪前以来，拉斯维加斯酒店赌场还没有引起如此大的轰动。

Local curiosity had been mounting ever since the man behind the project, longtime Las Vegas resident and casino owner Steve Wynn, had gone public with his somewhat mysterious plans.

自从该项目背后的人、长期居住在拉斯维加斯的赌场老板史蒂夫·永利(Steve Wynn)公开他有点神秘的计划以来，当地人的好奇心就一直与日俱增。

"They don't need another casino in Las Vegas," Wynn had told one writer, "but they sure as hell could use a major attraction." The Mirage, he promised, would be the Sin City-equivalent of Disneyland.

“他们不需要在拉斯维加斯再建一家赌场，”韦恩告诉一位作家，“但他们确实可以利用一个主要景点。”他承诺，幻影将成为迪士尼乐园中的罪恶之城。

The business that had built Las Vegas and fueled its growth for more than half a century was about to be turned on its head.

半个多世纪以来，建立了拉斯维加斯并推动其发展的企业即将发生翻天覆地的变化。

Marc Cooper : Historically, within the internal organization of a resort, the casino was king, and the showrooms, the rooms, the bars, they existed merely as appendages to the casino, didn't matter if they made a profit or not.

马克·库珀：从历史上看，在度假村的内部组织中，赌场是王道，而陈列室、房间、酒吧，它们只是作为赌场的附属物而存在，盈利与否并不重要。

They were the lure to get people into the casino.

它们是吸引人们进入赌场的诱惑。

Well Steve Wynn changed all that.

史蒂夫·永利改变了这一切。

Much to the detriment of the tourists' pocket book.

大大损害了游客的钱包。

What that meant, was that while it would cost the tourists a lot more because the day of the twenty dollar a night room was gone and the free meals were being fazed out, he upgraded the level of luxury to a point where a middle class person could come to Las Vegas, and feel like he really was a millionaire.

这意味着，虽然这会让游客花费更多，因为二十美元一晚的日子已经一去不复返，免费餐食也不再有，但他将奢华程度提升到了一个中产阶级可以来到拉斯维加斯的地步，感觉自己真的是一个百万富翁。

Archival Newsreel On The Mirage Grand Opening : "Pounding the pavement took on new meaning today, especially at the Mirage Hotel where thousands of feet jockeyed for space to see the new play land."

关于幻影盛大开幕的档案新闻片：“今天，踩踏人行道有了新的意义，尤其是在幻影酒店，数千英尺的人争先恐后地争夺空间来参观新的游乐场。”

Narrator : 100,000 people had been expected to show up for the resort's grand opening in November 1989; 200,000 actually came.

旁白：1989 年 11 月度假村盛大开业时，预计将有 10 万人前来参加；居然来了20万。

Inside of a few weeks, the Mirage surpassed Hoover Dam as the leading tourist attraction in Nevada.

几周之内，幻影超过胡佛水坝，成为内华达州领先的旅游景点。

With three separate wings, twenty-nine stories and a total of three million square feet, the Mirage was the largest resort casino on the face of the earth -- a complex so sprawling that it resembled not a resort but a city.

幻影赌场拥有三座独立的翼楼、二十九层、总面积达三百万平方英尺，是地球上最大的度假村赌场——这座建筑群如此庞大，以至于它不像一个度假村，而是一座城市。

So many service workers were needed to run the place -- some four thousand in all -- that Wynn had had to cut an historic deal with the Culinary Union just to open his doors.

经营这个地方需要如此多的服务人员——总共大约四千人——永利不得不与烹饪联盟达成历史性协议才能开门营业。

But it wasn't the size of the Mirage that really captured attention, it was the resort's exuberant celebration of sheer, stupefying spectacle -- a 20,000 gallon marine tank, stocked with pygmy sharks, stingrays and trigger fish; an ecologically-authentic tropical rainforest; and a fifty-four-foot man-made volcano that periodically spewed steam and flames into the night sky.

但真正引起人们注意的并不是幻影号的大小，而是度假村对纯粹、令人惊叹的奇观的热烈庆祝——一个 20,000 加仑的海洋水箱，里面饲养着侏儒鲨、黄貂鱼和扳机鱼；生态真实的热带雨林；还有一座五十四英尺高的人造火山，定期向夜空喷出蒸汽和火焰。

Dave Hickey : He understood that how it looked is important.

戴夫·希基：他明白它的外观很重要。

I would say the most admirable thing about all of Steve's projects is they really do detail.

我想说，史蒂夫的所有项目中最令人钦佩的一点是他们确实注重细节。

You know they really do detail.

你知道他们真的很注重细节。

The volcano in front of the Mirage is there because when they were setting it up, they were doing time motion studies on how long did it take you to get your car on the busiest night of the year?

海市蜃楼前面的火山之所以在那里，是因为当他们设置它时，他们正在做时间运动研究，看看你在一年中最繁忙的夜晚需要多长时间才能拿到你的车？

So twenty minutes to get your car, right?

二十分钟就能拿到车，对吗？

But if the volcano's going off every fifteen minutes, you're not waiting for your car, you're hoping your car won't get here until the volcano goes off.

但如果火山每十五分钟喷发一次，你就不会等你的车，你会希望你的车在火山喷发之前不会到达这里。

See this is very refined service economy thinking.

可见这是非常精细的服务经济思维。

Narrator : Even the entertainment broke the mold.

旁白：连娱乐活动也打破了模式。

There was no run-of-the-mill headline act here, no second-rate celebrity backed by a row of scantily-clad dancers.

这里没有普通的头条表演，也没有二流名人在一排衣着暴露的舞者的支持下。

Instead, the Mirage showroom featured a pair of flamboyant German illusionists named Siegfried and Roy, their hand-raised pride of white tigers and a twice-nightly, jaw-dropping magic show that would play to sold-out houses for years to come.

相反，幻影展厅的主角是一对名叫齐格弗里德和罗伊的华丽的德国魔术师，他们手举骄傲的白虎，每晚两场令人瞠目结舌的魔术表演，在未来几年里，场场门票都会售空。

Brian Greenspun : Steve came and he realized that if you build it and you build it better and you create a little demand where maybe there wasn't demand, make it a little harder to get into, everyone will want to get into it and everyone will pay more to enjoy it.

布莱恩·格林斯潘：史蒂夫来了，他意识到，如果你建造它，并且建造得更好，你在可能没有需求的地方创造一点需求，让它变得更难进入，每个人都会想进入它，每个人都会付出更多的钱来享受它。

And he built these fantasy lands for adults.

他为成年人建造了这些幻想之地。

You know with these volcanoes and, and the Siegfried and Roy show, and you know porpoises and everything that people would just love to be part of.

你知道这些火山，还有齐格弗里德和罗伊表演，你知道海豚和人们愿意参与其中的一切。

Did they pay more for it?

他们为此付出了更多吗？

Sure, they were willing to pay more for it, he understood that.

当然，他们愿意为此付出更多，他明白这一点。

Give them something they can't get anywhere else.

给他们一些在其他地方得不到的东西。

Narrator : The Mirage had miraculously made Las Vegas new again -- and it had done so just in time.

旁白：幻影奇迹般地让拉斯维加斯重新焕然一新——而且来得正是时候。

By the 1990's, any residual stigma that still clung to gambling in America had dropped away.

到了 20 世纪 90 年代，美国赌博所残留的污名已经消失。

As early as 1994, there were lotteries in 37 states, legal casinos in 23, and nearly the same percentage of the gross national product was spent on gambling as on groceries.

早在 1994 年，就有 37 个州有彩票，23 个州有合法赌场，用于赌博的国民生产总值的百分比与用于食品杂货的百分比几乎相同。

At decades' end, the most profitable casinos in the world would be located not on the Strip, but on Indian reservations all around the country.

几十年后，世界上最赚钱的赌场将不再位于拉斯维加斯大道，而是位于全国各地的印第安保留地。

The implications of the trend were not lost on Las Vegas's resort owners -- entrepreneurs like Bill Bennett and Kirk Kerkorian who had spent years building bigger and better casinos.

拉斯维加斯的度假村业主——比尔·贝内特和柯克·科科里安等企业家并没有忽视这一趋势的影响，他们花了数年时间建造更大、更好的赌场。

To survive as a tourist destination now, Sin City would have to up the ante.

现在，为了作为一个旅游目的地生存下去，罪恶之城必须加大赌注。

John L.

约翰·L。

Smith : The Mirage opened a lot of the financial doors for Las Vegas casinos.

史密斯：幻影为拉斯维加斯赌场打开了许多财务大门。

What it did also was spark a kind of "Grapes of Wrath" attraction about Las Vegas.

它还引发了拉斯维加斯的一种“愤怒的葡萄”吸引力。

That there were these people who needed the work were starting to come out here not only from south of the border, not only from California, but from all over and they were coming here, not simply because of the Mirage, because Las Vegas was growing again.

这些需要工作的人开始来到这里，不仅来自边境以南，不仅来自加利福尼亚，而且来自世界各地，他们来到这里，不仅仅是因为海市蜃楼，因为拉斯维加斯再次增长。

Natalie Rodriguez, the Culinary Training Academy : Kevin is finishing bussing this table, sorting his china.

娜塔莉·罗德里格斯 (Natalie Rodriguez)，烹饪培训学院：凯文正在清理这张桌子，整理他的瓷器。

Myra's setting up, she's covering everything so the food stays hot.

迈拉正在准备，她正在盖住所有东西，以便食物保持热度。

Here we have our main kitchen, this is where you'll be putting in orders.

这里有我们的主厨房，您可以在这里下订单。

The Culinary Training Academy's original design was to fill a labor need in the market.

烹饪培训学院最初的设计是为了满足市场的劳动力需求。

We trained people entry level, job specific, for this industry.

我们针对该行业培训了入门级、特定工作的人员。

Uh-uh, uh-uh, that's going to go in the dirty dishes.

呃-呃，呃-呃，那会进脏盘子里的。

In Las Vegas, you can embark upon a career as a food server, which anywhere else in the country is not considered a good job.

在拉斯维加斯，您可以从事食品服务员的职业，这在该国其他任何地方都不被认为是一份好工作。

You can provide very well for your family in these positions that in other places are not considered good jobs.

您可以从事这些在其他地方不被认为是好工作的职位，为您的家人提供很好的生活。

Pull the tray back behind his head, there we go.

把托盘拉回他的头后面，我们开始了。

May I?

我可以？

May I?

我可以？

Clockwise, OK, clockwise, clockwise.

顺时针，好吧，顺时针，顺时针。

We train people, the technical skills, how to carry a tray, how to say, "may I take your plate?" as opposed to, "are you done?" You know, how to correctly pour a cup of coffee so that it, it comes within a quarter inch of the top.

我们培训人员、技术技能、如何端托盘、如何说“我可以拿走你的盘子吗？”而不是“你完成了吗？”您知道如何正确倒一杯咖啡，使其距离顶部四分之一英寸以内。

You've got to announce: "Coffee?" Coffee and pour.

你必须宣布：“咖啡？”咖啡并倒出。

Our industry demands a level of customer service, of guest service, that is so high that a large part of what we do in addition to the technical skills is train people on focused eye contact, how to relax, how to smile, how to communicate with the guest.

我们的行业对客户服务、宾客服务的要求非常高，以至于除了技术技能之外，我们所做的很大一部分工作是培训人们专注的目光接触、如何放松、如何微笑、如何与宾客沟通。

Do you put the butter on the French toast?

你在法式吐司上涂黄油吗？

Do you put the syrup on the French toast?

你把糖浆放在法式吐司上吗？

Do you put the powdered sugar on the French toast?

法式吐司上撒糖粉吗？

Yes, sprinkle the powdered sugar on the French toast.

是的，在法式吐司上撒上糖粉。

My goal when I send people out into the industry is that they communicate to the guest that each and every guest is important, not just to me, but that they're important to my hotel, to my restaurant, to my city.

当我派人进入这个行业时，我的目标是让他们向客人传达每一位客人都很重要，不仅对我来说，而且对我的酒店、我的餐厅和我的城市都很重要。

We are driven by tourism and if the guest stops coming back, we stop having employment.

我们是由旅游业驱动的，如果客人不再回来，我们就不再有工作。

The only difference between a plain omelet and scrambled eggs is shape.

普通煎蛋卷和炒鸡蛋之间的唯一区别是形状。

The guest service that should be communicated is that each and every guest is valuable, that you're valuable, that you're appreciated, that you're a wanted part of our day.

应该传达的宾客服务是，每一位宾客都是有价值的，您是有价值的，您受到赞赏，您是我们这一天所需要的一部分。

You are the reason that we're here.

你是我们在这里的原因。

Dina Titus : Las Vegas is well-known for reinventing itself.

Dina Titus：拉斯维加斯以自我改造而闻名。

We're very good at adapting.

我们非常善于适应。

I mean how else could we have survived out here in the middle of this desert with nothing else around.

我的意思是，我们怎么能在这片沙漠中央，周围什么都没有的情况下生存下来呢？

Who would ever imagine it would become what it is today?

谁能想到它会变成今天这个样子？

So we reinvent ourselves to accommodate whatever comes along.

因此，我们重塑自己以适应发生的一切。

Bryant Gumble, archival footage : In just about fifteen hours, this building, the once grand Dunes Hotel and Casino, will be demolished in what's billed as America's most spectacular architectural implosion ever.

布莱恩特·甘布尔（Bryant Gumble），档案镜头：在大约十五个小时内，这座曾经宏伟的沙丘酒店和赌场建筑将被拆除，这被称为美国有史以来最壮观的建筑内爆。

Your decision to blow up the Dunes, is it part of a larger effort to do away with the old Las Vegas and reshape Vegas as something else?

您炸毁沙丘的决定是否是废除旧拉斯维加斯并将拉斯维加斯重塑为其他事物的更大努力的一部分？

Steve Wynn : It's part of Las Vegas doing what everybody else in the entertainment business is doing in the world today, and that is keeping up with the changing tastes of the public.

史蒂夫·永利：拉斯维加斯正在做当今世界上其他娱乐业人士正在做的事情，那就是跟上公众不断变化的品味。

Everybody has become more and more highly expectant and things that would have gotten a wow or a jazz ten years ago draw a yawn today and if Las Vegas doesn't move along like the movie industry and everything else, Las Vegas is not going to be the exciting place it has been in the past, and it is, as you can see.

每个人都变得越来越期待，十年前令人惊叹或爵士乐的事情今天却令人叹为观止，如果拉斯维加斯不像电影业和其他一切那样向前发展，拉斯维加斯就不会像过去那样令人兴奋，而且正如你所看到的那样。

It's moving along.

它正在前进。

Narrator : Between 1989 and 2005, many of the city's most iconic landmarks -- the Dunes and Sands, the Hacienda and even the Desert Inn -- would be leveled, making way for what would come to be known as "the New Las Vegas."

旁白：1989 年至 2005 年间，该市许多最具标志性的地标建筑——沙丘和沙滩、庄园甚至沙漠旅馆——都将被夷为平地，为后来被称为“新拉斯维加斯”的地方让路。

David Thomson : I think there's an impulse in the construction and reconstruction of the city that is very much something that comes from Hollywood sound studios, whereby you build a set, and Friday you finish with it, Monday you want a new set.

大卫·汤姆森：我认为城市建设和重建的动力很大程度上来自于好莱坞的录音室，你建造了一套布景，周五你完成了它，周一你想要一套新的布景。

And the European sense of construction and the Eastern American sense of construction is that you build for the centuries.

欧洲的建筑意识和东美的建筑意识是你建造了几个世纪。

And in the west, but particularly in Las Vegas and Hollywood, I think, there is this notion that you build for what you want now.

我认为在西方，尤其是在拉斯维加斯和好莱坞，有这样一种观念：你为现在想要的东西而建造。

Paul Goldberger : Las Vegas is a place built on the idea of escape, and if you believe you're about escape, then you can't be hemmed in by anything, including your own past.

Paul Goldberger：拉斯维加斯是一个建立在逃避理念之上的地方，如果你相信自己正在逃避，那么你就不会被任何事物所束缚，包括你自己的过去。

So I think Las Vegas treats its past the way it wants its visitors to treat their pasts, in effect, to forget them and to just have a good time.

所以我认为拉斯维加斯对待它的过去就像它希望游客对待他们的过去一样，实际上是忘记它们并享受美好时光。

Dave Hickey : Well I mean Vegas has done for architecture what, you know, what Renaissance painting did for painting.

戴夫·希基：嗯，我的意思是维加斯对建筑的贡献就像文艺复兴时期的绘画对绘画的贡献一样。

It rendered it mobile and ephemeral.

它使它具有流动性和短暂性。

I mean, you know.

我的意思是，你知道。

If it doesn't work here, it goes away.

如果它在这里不起作用，它就会消失。

You know if you build it and it doesn't work, it goes away.

你知道，如果你构建了它但它不起作用，它就会消失。

Buildings, nothing is presumed to be permanent.

建筑物，没有什么被认为是永久的。

Narrator : They seemed to materialize almost overnight, like the outsize LEGO creations of an unnaturally large child: the four-thousand-room, Knights of the Roundtable-inspired Excalibur, outfitted with cartoonish turrets, towers and spires.

旁白：它们似乎几乎在一夜之间就实现了，就像一个大得不自然的孩子的超大乐高作品：有四千个房间、受圆桌骑士启发的神剑，配备了卡通炮塔、塔楼和尖顶。

.

。

.

。

and the pyramid-shaped Luxor, home to the world's largest atrium and a 40-billion-candlepower spotlight that astronauts reported as clearly visible from space.

金字塔形的卢克索拥有世界上最大的中庭和 400 亿烛光聚光灯，宇航员报告说从太空中清晰可见。

.

。

.

。

The pirate-themed Treasure Island, where a rousing maritime extravaganza was performed six times nightly on a 65-foot-deep man-made lagoon fronting the hotel.

以海盗为主题的金银岛，每晚在酒店前面 65 英尺深的人造泻湖上演六场激动人心的海上盛宴。

.

。

.

。

and the new MGM Grand, a massive hotel-casino-entertainment complex that drew as many as 10,000 visitors a day.

新建的米高梅大酒店 (MGM Grand) 是一座大型酒店、赌场和娱乐综合体，每天吸引多达 10,000 名游客。

These would soon be followed by dazzlingly elaborate replicas of New York City and Paris, Lake Como and Venice.

紧随其后的是纽约市、巴黎、科莫湖和威尼斯的令人眼花缭乱的精致复制品。

In the end, there would be more hotel rooms on the corner of Flamingo Road and the Strip than in the entire city of San Francisco.

最终，火烈鸟路和拉斯维加斯大道拐角处的酒店房间数量将比整个旧金山市还要多。

Dave Hickey : Everything here is here to be seen, there's nothing here to be looked at.

戴夫·希基：这里的一切都是可以看的，但这里没有什么可看的。

The architecture is not self-conscious about being architecture.

建筑并不自觉地成为建筑。

It just doesn't suffer from Edifice Rex.

它只是不受雷克斯大厦的影响。

You know when I first came here, you know I had some friend from New York was here and they said, looking at the Luxor and he said, well this is just a joke.

你知道当我第一次来到这里时，你知道我有一个来自纽约的朋友在这里，他们说，看着卢克索，他说，这只是一个笑话。

And I just had to say, well you get it don't you?

我不得不说，好吧，你明白了，不是吗？

Do you think no one, you think everybody else thinks it's a real pyramid?

你认为没有人，你认为其他人都认为这是一座真正的金字塔吗？

Of course it's a [expletive] fake pyramid.

当然，这是一个[脏话]假金字塔。

Hal Rothman : What Las Vegas does is make you feel special by not threatening you, by affirming who you are.

哈尔·罗斯曼：拉斯维加斯所做的就是通过不威胁你、通过肯定你是谁来让你感到特别。

If you walk into the Paris and you say, 'bonjour,' to somebody and they say, 'bonjour,' and you say, 'comment tallez vous,' and they say, 'My name's Eric, and I'm from Orange County, and that's all the French I know.' The difference between Venice and the Venetian is it's cleaner, it's a little bit less noisy, and it has all the amenities.

如果你走进巴黎，对某人说“bonjour”，他们会说“bonjour”，然后你说“commenttalez vous”，他们会说，“我叫 Eric，来自奥兰治县，这就是我所知道的所有法语。”威尼斯和威尼斯人的区别在于它更干净，噪音少一点，而且设施齐全。

So it takes the world the way it is, and makes it the way you would have it if you were in charge.

因此，它让世界保持原来的样子，并使其成为你掌控的样子。

John L.

约翰·L。

Smith : I think Las Vegas has done a great job of selling itself as acceptable mainstream experiences.

史密斯：我认为拉斯维加斯在将自己推销为可接受的主流体验方面做得很好。

It's interesting, a generation ago people defined Las Vegas in very moralistic terms.

有趣的是，上一代人用非常道德的术语来定义拉斯维加斯。

I mean there were those who liked it because it was kind of cool and exciting, and then there were a whole lot of folks who cast aspersions on it.

我的意思是，有些人喜欢它，因为它很酷、很刺激，但也有很多人诽谤它。

David Thomson : I think everybody in the world feels they ought to try to get here just to see what it's like, and a lot of people if you were to say to them, what's your definition of the great life, would say without irony, without hesitation, "Well, a great weekend in Las Vegas." That's got the lot.

大卫·汤姆森：我认为世界上的每个人都觉得他们应该尝试来到这里看看那里是什么样子，如果你对他们说，你对美好生活的定义是什么，很多人会毫不讽刺、毫不犹豫地说，“嗯，在拉斯维加斯度过了一个美好的周末。”就这么多了。

That's the package.

这就是包裹。

Narrator : By 1999, Las Vegas was drawing some 37 million tourists annually, from all over the world, eclipsing even the holy city of Mecca as the most visited place on the planet.

旁白：到 1999 年，拉斯维加斯每年吸引来自世界各地的约 3700 万游客，甚至超越圣城麦加，成为地球上访问量最大的地方。

Paul Goldberger : At a time when cities are forced by certain economic and cultural pressures to look more and more alike, when it's getting harder and harder to figure out what differentiates Dallas from Atlanta say, Las Vegas is one American city that still feels distinct.

保罗·戈德伯格：当城市迫于某些经济和文化压力而变得越来越相似时，当越来越难弄清楚达拉斯和亚特兰大所说的不同之处时，拉斯维加斯是一个仍然感觉独特的美国城市。

But reality will force it in another direction because as cities grow, they inevitably change.

但现实将迫使它走向另一个方向，因为随着城市的发展，它们不可避免地会发生变化。

It is in fact becoming a more traditional city, more like other places.

事实上，它正在成为一个更加传统的城市，更像其他地方。

But it can't admit that to the world or it won't be Las Vegas.

但它不能向世界承认这一点，否则它就不会是拉斯维加斯了。

Mary Ann Ward : Well usually if I'm on an airplane and they ask me what I do in Las Vegas and I tell them I'm a principal they say, oh there's not schools in Las Vegas, and I have to say well, we are the fifth largest school district in the United States.

玛丽·安·沃德：通常，如果我在飞机上，他们问我在拉斯维加斯做什么，我告诉他们我是一名校长，他们说，哦，拉斯维加斯没有学校，我不得不说，我们是美国第五大学区。

We are not able to open schools fast enough to handle the amount of children that are coming into our city.

我们无法足够快地开设学校来应对进入我们城市的儿童数量。

Last year they opened I believe twelve, I think this year its anywhere between ten and eleven, and I know that they've said that next year they might be up to eighteen new schools open.

去年他们开办了十二所学校，我想今年开办了十到十一所学校，而且我知道他们说过明年可能会开办多达十八所新学校。

But there's also a lot of turnover and that makes stability for children and instructional programs more difficult I think.

但我认为，人员流动也很大，这使得儿童和教学计划的稳定性变得更加困难。

Darla Richards : I started this school year with twenty-seven students and probably eighteen of them were here from day one and are still here today.

达拉·理查兹：本学年开始时，我有 27 名学生，其中可能有 18 名从第一天起就在这里，直到今天仍然在这里。

The rest of them are all new and several have moved on.

其余的都是新的，有几个已经搬走了。

Sometimes children, we'll get new students who have been in four schools already in one year.

有时孩子们，我们会招收一年内已经在四所学校就读的新学生。

So, that's difficult as a teacher, you feel for those children that there's not more stability for them.

所以，作为一名老师，这很困难，你会觉得那些孩子没有更多的稳定性。

Darla Richards : OK, today for journal we're writing about what you would do if everyone in your family forgot your birthday, everyone.

达拉·理查兹：好的，今天我们在日记中写的是，如果你家里的每个人都忘记了你的生日，你会怎么做。

Darla Richards : I think a huge impact that a twenty-four hour city has on the children is in a lot of cases they go home after school and no one is there because that's when their parents are working.

达拉·理查兹（Darla Richards）：我认为二十四小时的城市对孩子们的巨大影响是，很多时候他们放学回家后没有人在家，因为那时他们的父母正在工作。

That impacts what I try to do with them primarily with homework.

这影响了我主要通过家庭作业来尝试处理他们的事情。

They go home and they have a lot of other responsibilities, they're watching younger siblings and so homework doesn't always take a priority.

他们回家后还有很多其他责任，他们要照顾弟弟妹妹，所以家庭作业并不总是优先考虑的。

Jobs that are available here in Vegas are often decent paying jobs that one can acquire without very much education at all, and therefore I think education in the valley is not really high priority.

拉斯维加斯提供的工作通常是体面的高薪工作，无需太多教育即可获得，因此我认为硅谷的教育并不是真正的重中之重。

And especially children when they get to high school, they know that they can go get a job valeting cars like Uncle Bill and make a decent living without finishing high school.

尤其是孩子们，当他们进入高中时，他们知道他们可以像比尔叔叔一样找到一份代客泊车的工作，并且无需完成高中学业就能过上体面的生活。

I try to do what I can and I promote education with them.

我尽我所能，与他们一起促进教育。

I often ask them, you know, who thinks they want to go to college and many hands are raised, so if we can just keep instilling that importance of education as they go through schooling, we'll reach a few of them.

我经常问他们，你知道，谁认为自己想上大学，很多人都举手了，所以如果我们能够在他们上学的过程中不断灌输教育的重要性，我们就会接触到其中的一些人。

Narrator : By the dawn of the 21st century, the phenomenal success of the New Las Vegas had transformed what was once a remote and exotic desert outpost into the fastest-growing city in the United States -- a place where tens of thousands of jobs were created each year, and sixty new streets named each month, and an average of more than a thousand prospective residents moved into town each week.

旁白：到了 21 世纪初，新拉斯维加斯取得了惊人的成功，将这个曾经偏远而充满异国情调的沙漠前哨变成了美国发展最快的城市——每年创造数以万计的就业机会，每月有 60 条新街道被命名，平均每周有超过 1000 名潜在居民搬入城镇。

Improbably, the city that had long been a refuge from mainstream America had become, all at once, the last best place in the country to find it.

令人难以置信的是，这座长期以来一直是美国主流避难所的城市突然变成了这个国家最后一个最好的避难所。

Marc Cooper : I think in many ways Las Vegas is the most American of cities, and it's a real irony.

马克·库珀：我认为从很多方面来说拉斯维加斯都是最美国化的城市，这确实是一个讽刺。

People used to come to Las Vegas to get away from America.

人们曾经来到拉斯维加斯是为了远离美国。

And all those jobs and all those careers that people thought were safe and secure in the heartland of the rust belts etcetera have disappeared.

人们认为在铁锈地带等中心地带安全可靠的所有工作和职业都消失了。

So history has had a good laugh because Las Vegas turns out to be one of the best places to come to work, and to get a career, and to get a union job and to get a living wage, so you actually come to Las Vegas the way you used to come to Detroit.

所以历史已经开怀大笑了，因为事实证明拉斯维加斯是最适合工作、找到职业、找到工会工作和获得生活工资的地方之一，所以你实际上来到拉斯维加斯就像以前来底特律一样。

Dina Titus : You know we've had the fastest growing senior population, school age population, Hispanic population, Asian population, fastest growing city, fastest growing small town, and fastest growing rural community.

迪娜·提特斯：你知道我们拥有增长最快的老年人口、学龄人口、西班牙裔人口、亚裔人口、增长最快的城市、增长最快的小镇和增长最快的农村社区。

That's a lot of fastest.

这是最快的很多。

Growth is good for many reasons.

出于多种原因，增长是有利的。

It brings lots of jobs, it brings diversity, it brings excitement, it brings money.

它带来了大量的就业机会，带来多样性，带来兴奋，带来金钱。

But there are also downsides to that, of course, you know the tail begins to wag the dog.

但当然，这也有缺点，你知道尾巴开始摇狗。

And the number of people outweigh the infrastructure that serves them and so you get more traffic, you get more crime, you get bad air.

人口数量超过了为他们服务的基础设施，因此交通量增加，犯罪率增加，空气质量也变差。

Patricia Cunningham : The mindset is to get it quick, get it now, at any cost, with absolutely no regard for consequences.

帕特里夏·坎宁安（Patricia Cunningham）：我们的心态是尽快得到它，现在就得到它，不惜一切代价，绝对不考虑后果。

There's an awful lot of waste.

有大量的浪费。

And when you hear about the issues with water and homelessness and a lack of parent involvement in schools it makes you stop and ask, where are the priorities?

当您听说水和无家可归问题以及家长对学校缺乏参与的问题时，您会停下来问，优先事项在哪里？

John L.

约翰·L。

Smith : There isn't a lot of sympathy in Las Vegas.

史密斯：拉斯维加斯没有多少同情心。

We can talk about how many philanthropists we have here, on the Strip and downtown in the casino business, but the fact is this is a very tough community.

我们可以谈论这里、拉斯维加斯大道和市中心的赌场行业有多少慈善家，但事实是这是一个非常艰难的社区。

We don't give more than most communities do.

我们给予的并不比大多数社区多。

It's kind of the old libertarian ethic of the west, I mean you are pretty much on your own.

这是西方古老的自由主义伦理，我的意思是你几乎要靠自己。

If you're looking for a well knitted social net, you're not going to find it here.

如果您正在寻找一个组织良好的社交网络，那么您不会在这里找到它。

Brian Greenspun : There is a reckoning coming, I'm not smart enough to know the answer, I certainly know the question.

Brian Greenspun：清算即将到来，我不够聪明，无法知道答案，但我当然知道问题所在。

But we're going to have to come up with an answer, a balance if you will between how much we are going to pay or be willing to pay to make this a grand and glorious place to live for people, so that we can continue to make it a grand and glorious place for people to come visit.

但我们必须找到一个答案，在我们将要支付或愿意支付多少钱以使这里成为人们居住的宏伟而光荣的地方之间取得平衡，这样我们才能继续使其成为人们前来参观的宏伟而光荣的地方。

We've never had that problem before, it is coming to a head.

我们以前从未遇到过这个问题，现在已经到了紧要关头。

Marc Cooper : What Las Vegas needs or doesn't need as a city depends on whether you live here or not.

马克·库珀：拉斯维加斯作为一座城市需要什么或不需要什么，取决于你是否住在这里。

If you don't live here, then you don't need much more than the Las Vegas strip, do you?

如果您不住在这里，那么您只需要拉斯维加斯大道，不是吗？

You could literally pare away the rest of Las Vegas and ninety-five percent of the tourists wouldn't care and wouldn't notice.

你可以毫不夸张地削减拉斯维加斯的其余部分，百分之九十五的游客不会关心也不会注意到。

Now the other million and a half people who live here, that's a different story.

现在居住在这里的另外一百五十万人，情况就不同了。

Patricia Cunningham : I think Las Vegas always finds a way to succeed because I think people are eternal optimists.

帕特里夏·坎宁安：我认为拉斯维加斯总能找到成功的方法，因为我认为人们都是永远的乐观主义者。

I think people need to believe that there has to be a pot of gold at the end of the rainbow, you just haven't found it yet.

我认为人们需要相信彩虹尽头一定有一桶金，只是你还没有找到它。

And Las Vegas encourages you to come here and see if you can find it.

拉斯维加斯鼓励您来这里看看是否能找到它。

Dave Hickey : It's just promise, you know, and it has to do with the idea that you don't bet on the past.

戴夫·希基：这只是承诺，你知道，这与你不把赌注押在过去的想法有关。

You know, you bet on the future.

你知道，你赌的是未来。

There is a kind of structural optimism built into gambling cultures.

赌博文化中存在着一种结构性乐观主义。

I mean it's not like stupid optimism, like everything's going to be all right, but it's sort of practical optimism like whatever happens, I can handicap it.

我的意思是，这不像愚蠢的乐观主义，好像一切都会好起来，而是一种实际的乐观主义，就像无论发生什么，我都可以阻止它。

And that's just part of the culture.

这只是文化的一部分。

I mean, you can't have gambling without optimism.

我的意思是，没有乐观就不能赌博。

John L.

约翰·L。

Smith : I think there will always be a part of the American psyche and soul that is very much Las Vegas.

史密斯：我认为美国人的精神和灵魂中总会有一部分是拉斯维加斯的。

Our country is headed more toward Las Vegas than away from it.

我们的国家更多地走向拉斯维加斯，而不是远离它。

But I think the people who run the town will always make sure that we're out ahead, banging the right drums, and shaking the right tambourines to make this a wilder place than the nation as a whole.

但我认为，管理这座城镇的人们将始终确保我们走在前面，敲响正确的鼓，摇动正确的手鼓，使这里成为一个比整个国家更狂野的地方。

Over the years, a secondary government, or a "government with a government" in America, has been known by many names, most accurately, perhaps, as "the Syndicate."

多年来，美国的二级政府或“有政府的政府”有很多名称，最准确的可能是“辛迪加”。

In a January 4, 1943 article, Time magazine reports on the slow liberalization of divorce in America.

在 1943 年 1 月 4 日的一篇文章中，《时代》杂志报道了美国离婚自由化进程缓慢的情况。

A September 29, 1930 article in Time recounts the excitement that surrounded the project known as the Boulder Dam.

《时代》杂志 1930 年 9 月 29 日的一篇文章讲述了围绕博尔德大坝项目的兴奋之情。

Survey the Las Vegas area and examine highlights of its development.

调查拉斯维加斯地区并研究其发展亮点。

The late Hal K.

已故的哈尔·K.

Rothman was professor and chair of the Department of History at the University of Nevada-Las Vegas.

罗斯曼是内华达大学拉斯维加斯分校历史系教授兼系主任。

In this interview he discusses Las Vegas and casinos.

在这次采访中，他讨论了拉斯维加斯和赌场。

The history of architecture in Las Vegas begins with casual Western themes of the 1940s, then on to the whimsical fantasies of the 1950s, the decadent 1960s and then the family friendly theme park 1990s.

拉斯维加斯的建筑史始于 20 世纪 40 年代的休闲西方主题，然后是 1950 年代的异想天开、颓废的 1960 年代，最后是 1990 年代的家庭友好型主题公园。

The Mirage Hotel-Casino opened in 1989 on the Las Vegas strip.

Mirage Hotel-Casino 于 1989 年在拉斯维加斯大道开业。

A few days after, the Associated Press covered the story of Elmer Sherwin, who won the largest jackpot in Vegas history at the Mirage.

几天后，美联社报道了埃尔默·舍温 (Elmer Sherwin) 的故事，他在幻影酒店 (Mirage) 赢得了维加斯历史上最大的奖金。

In a March 20, 1970 article, Life magazine described the Elvis Presley phenomenon.

在 1970 年 3 月 20 日的一篇文章中，《生活》杂志描述了埃尔维斯·普雷斯利现象。

Ches Washington, journalist for the national African American weekly New Pittsburgh Courier , reported on a planned NAACP protest in Las Vegas, where black residents were segregated on the Westside.

全国非裔美国人周刊《新匹兹堡信使》的记者切斯·华盛顿报道了全国有色人种协进会计划在拉斯维加斯举行的抗议活动，那里的黑人居民在西区被隔离。

Benjamin "Bugsy" Siegel had been a legendary mobster on the Las Vegas scene.

本杰明·“巴格西”·西格尔是拉斯维加斯舞台上的传奇黑帮分子。

In 1947, he was found murdered in Beverly Hills.

1947年，他被发现在比佛利山庄被谋杀。

Time magazine published an article exploring the speculative events that surrounded this "hit."

《时代》杂志发表了一篇文章，探讨了围绕这一“热门事件”的猜测事件。

In the 1950s the American public accepted above-ground nuclear bomb blasts just 65 miles from Las Vegas as part of the Cold War effort.

20 世纪 50 年代，作为冷战努力的一部分，美国公众接受了距拉斯维加斯仅 65 英里的地面核弹爆炸。

Explore ways the government presented the safety and importance of these tests.

探索政府介绍这些测试的安全性和重要性的方式。

William Andrews Clark was a politician and entrepeneur who developed a mining empire and left behind a multi million dollar legacy.

威廉·安德鲁斯·克拉克是一位政治家和企业家，他建立了一个矿业帝国，并留下了数百万美元的遗产。