Longreads Best of 2012: Jodi Ettenberg

Jodi Ettenberg is the founder of Legal Nomads, a contributing editor to Longreads and Travelreads, and the author of The Food Traveler’s Handbook.

Jodi Ettenberg 是 Legal Nomads 的创始人、Longreads 和 Travelreads 的特约编辑以及《美食旅行者手册》的作者。

It is always hard to narrow down my favourites from a full 12 months of longreading, so here are five—but certainly not all—of the standouts from the last year.

在整整 12 个月的长篇阅读中，总是很难选出我最喜欢的书，所以这里有五本——但肯定不是全部——去年的杰出作品。

They’re food-themed, mainly because my last year has also been focused on writing and learning about food.

它们以食物为主题，主要是因为我去年也专注于写作和学习有关食物的内容。

1.

1.

”The Cosmopolitan Condiment,” Dan Jurafsky, Slate

“大都会调味品”，Dan Jurafsky，Slate

I’ve sent this article to more people than I can count, and love the responses I’ve received “Ketchup comes from China?!” The full piece is worth reading, in part because what makes food so fascinating is not only where it is eaten but also where it came from, and how it is what it is today.

我已经把这篇文章发给了无数的人，我很喜欢收到的回复“番茄酱来自中国？！”整篇文章值得一读，部分原因是食物如此迷人的原因不仅在于它是在哪里吃的，还在于它来自哪里，以及它是如何成为今天的样子的。

Ketchup, once a fermented fish sauce from China, is now a sweet tomato condiment we all know and many of us love.

番茄酱曾经是来自中国的发酵鱼露，现在是我们都知道并且很多人都喜欢的甜番茄调味品。

You’ll never look at a bottle the same way again once you read this great piece.

读完这篇精彩的文章后，您将不再以同样的方式看待瓶子。

2.

2.

“Adjika: Sauce of Glory, Pride of Abhazia,” Oliver Bullough, Roads & Kingdoms

“阿吉卡：荣耀之酱，阿巴齐亚的骄傲”，奥利弗·布洛，《道路与王国》

Adjika holds a special place in my heart, having brightened up many a meal and been a source of great conversation on the road.

Adjika 在我心中占据着特殊的位置，她为我的很多顿饭增添了色彩，并且成为旅途中愉快交谈的来源。

A red and fiery condiment from the Caucuses, adija is brought to life beautifully in this Roads & Kingdoms piece.

阿迪亚是一种来自高加索地区的红色火辣调味品，在《道路与王国》的这幅作品中被完美地展现了出来。

“It was like the sun had risen in my mouth.

“就像太阳在我嘴里升起一样。

Instead of the cold lumpiness of wood pulp, there was a spreading glow of summer: garlic, chilli, salt, and a dozen other spices I could not identify.

不再是木浆冰冷的块状，而是夏日的光芒：大蒜、辣椒、盐和其他十几种我无法辨认的香料。

I looked up in amazement and picked up the little dish of red sauce to smell it.

我惊讶地抬起头，拿起那小碟红酱闻了闻。

The old woman smiled again.

老妇人又笑了。

“That’s adjika,” she said.”

“那是阿吉卡，”她说。

Worth a read for anyone who likes food and travel.

喜欢美食和旅行的人都值得一读。

3.

3.

“Manufacturing Taste,” Sasha Chapman, The Walrus

“制造品味”，萨莎·查普曼，《海象》

As a Canadian, I grew up referring to Kraft Macaroni & Cheese as “KD”, and had no idea this was not a worldwide phenomenon until midway through 2010, and I was appalled to hear that my American friends did not adopt this affectionate nickname.

作为一名加拿大人，我从小就将卡夫通心粉和奶酪称为“KD”，直到 2010 年中期才知道这并不是一个世界性的现象，而且当我听说我的美国朋友没有采用这个亲切的昵称时，我感到震惊。

I’m not the only one.

我不是唯一一个。

As author Sasha Chapman notes: ”The point is, it’s nearly impossible to live in Canada without forming an opinion about one of the world’s first and most successful convenience foods.

正如作家萨莎·查普曼 (Sasha Chapman) 所指出的：“关键是，生活在加拿大几乎不可能不对世界上第一个也是最成功的方便食品之一形成自己的看法。

In 1997, sixty years after the first box promised ‘dinner in seven minutes — no baking required,’ we celebrated by making Kraft Dinner the top-selling grocery item in the country.”

1997 年，在第一个盒子承诺‘七分钟内的晚餐——无需烘烤’六十年后，我们通过让卡夫晚餐成为全国最畅销的杂货来庆祝。”

The Walrus investigates the history and current state Canada’s strange love for KD.

《海象》调查了加拿大对杜兰特的奇怪热爱的历史和现状。

4.

4.

“Bread of Beirut,” Annia Ciezadlo, Granta

“贝鲁特的面包”，Annia Ciezadlo，格兰塔

A beautiful piece about communal bakeries in the Middle East and how these centuries-old traditions become new again during times of war.

这是一篇关于中东公共面包店的精彩文章，以及这些具有数百年历史的传统如何在战争时期再次焕然一新。

5.

5.

“A Fish Story,” Alison Fairbrother, The Washington Monthly

“鱼的故事”，艾莉森·费尔布拉泽，《华盛顿月刊》

A must-read about a tiny silvery fish called the menhaden and how crucial it is to the ecosystem of our oceans.

这是一本必读的书，介绍了一种名为鲱鱼的银色小鱼，以及它对我们海洋生态系统的重要性。

Bonus non-food longreads:• “Another Night to Remember,” Bryan Burrough, Vanity Fair• “Ivory Worship,” Bryan Christy, National Geographic • “The Soul of a City,” Matt Goulding, Roads & Kingdoms

非食品类长篇读物附赠：• “又一个值得纪念的夜晚”，布莱恩·伯勒，《名利场》• “象牙崇拜”，布莱恩·克里斯蒂，国家地理 • “城市的灵魂”，马特·古尔丁，《道路与王国》

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Read more guest picks from Longreads Best of 2012.

阅读 Longreads 2012 年度最佳嘉宾精选。