99 Problems: The Ice Cream Truck’s Surprising History
When John Harkins was 5 years old, his parents were called into school by a concerned teacher: “We’ve got a bit of an issue with John,” she told them.
约翰·哈金斯 5 岁时，一位忧心忡忡的老师把他的父母叫到学校：“我们和约翰之间有点问题，”她告诉他们。
His class, she explained, had been learning about colors.
她解释说，他的班级一直在学习颜色。
“All the other kids were saying brown,” she said.
“所有其他孩子都说棕色，”她说。
“John’s telling us it’s cola.” The pink, he told them, was “strawberry.” And most worrying of all, he was sure the blue was “raspberry.” John’s parents were able to assuage the teacher’s worries; the Harkins ran an ice cream truck (known as a van in their native UK), and little John spent a lot of time riding on it, near a lurid, triple-barrel slushy machine, churning out three flavors (or colors) of the icy stuff—cola, strawberry, and raspberry.
“约翰告诉我们这是可乐。”他告诉他们，粉色是“草莓色”。最令人担忧的是，他确信蓝色是“覆盆子色”。约翰的父母缓解了老师的担忧。哈金斯一家经营一辆冰淇淋车（在他们的祖国英国被称为面包车），小约翰花了很多时间骑在上面，靠近一个可怕的三桶雪泥机，搅拌出三种口味（或颜色）的冰激凌——可乐、草莓和覆盆子。
Ice cream is in Harkins’s blood.
哈金斯的血液中流淌着冰淇淋。
His childhood was spent “going to get stock, painting wheels, and flattening boxes.” Years spent perched on stacked boxes of waffle cones, short legs dangling, breathing in the particular sweet-metallic tang of the ice cream pumps had their effect.
他的童年是在“买货、画轮子、压平盒子”中度过的。长年累月地坐在华夫饼筒堆放的盒子上，短腿晃来晃去，呼吸着冰淇淋泵特有的甜味金属味，这产生了影响。
Today, aged 42 and still living in Renfrewshire, Scotland, he owns his own ice cream truck business—Bay’s Ices—and has twice won Best Mobile Seller at the Ice Cream Awards.
如今，42 岁的他仍然居住在苏格兰伦弗鲁郡，拥有自己的冰淇淋车公司 Bay's Ices，并两次荣获冰淇淋奖最佳移动卖家奖。
(Run by the Ice Cream Alliance, the Ice Cream Awards have celebrated the best of the best ice cream trucks since 2005.) John loves his job, but it’s not an easy life.
（冰淇淋奖由冰淇淋联盟主办，自 2005 年以来一直表彰最好的冰淇淋车。）约翰热爱他的工作，但生活并不轻松。
“When you run ice cream vans, it takes over everything,” he says.
“当你经营冰淇淋车时，它就会接管一切，”他说。
“The job is dictated by the weather; it’s not a job that anyone can decide they’re going to do set hours at.”
“这项工作是由天气决定的；这不是任何人都可以决定他们要在规定时间完成的工作。”
Like farmers, ice cream men have to make hay while the sun shines.
和农民一样，冰淇淋工也必须趁着阳光晒干草。
Perhaps that’s why so many ice cream vendors are part of dynasties—it’s much harder for a newcomer to prioritize the ice cream over a family wedding or a school sports day.
也许这就是为什么这么多冰淇淋小贩都是王朝的一部分——对于新来的人来说，把冰淇淋放在家庭婚礼或学校运动会之前要困难得多。
In a smaller way, ice cream is in my blood, too.
从更小的方面来说，冰淇淋也融入了我的血液中。
I grew up in South Shields, a weather-beaten seafront town in Northeastern England, which tends toward the gray, save for a handful of days a year when it is transformed into the most beautiful place in the world.
我在南希尔兹长大，这是英格兰东北部一个饱经风霜的海滨小镇，这里趋于灰色，每年只有少数几天会变成世界上最美丽的地方。
Seasides and ice cream are such obvious bedfellows that it took leaving home for a landlocked town for me to realize how much ice cream was a part of my life.
海边和冰淇淋是如此明显的同床异梦，直到我离开家来到一个内陆小镇后，我才意识到冰淇淋是我生活的一部分。
My first school trip, at age 3, was to an ice cream factory.
我三岁时第一次学校旅行是去一家冰淇淋工厂。
It was there that I first tried monkey’s blood—a hyper-regional term for raspberry sauce, as I discovered years later upon trying to order it at university, 250 miles away.
正是在那里，我第一次尝试了猴血——这是一种覆盆子酱的超地区术语，几年后我在 250 英里外的大学尝试订购时发现。
Perhaps that’s why so many ice cream vendors are part of dynasties—it’s much harder for a newcomer to prioritize the ice cream over a family wedding or a school sports day.
也许这就是为什么这么多冰淇淋小贩都是王朝的一部分——对于新来的人来说，把冰淇淋放在家庭婚礼或学校运动会之前要困难得多。
In the UK, the most popular ice cream truck product is a 99: a classic soft serve vanilla ice cream served in a wafer or waffle cone, with—crucially—a “99 chocolate Flake” stuck on top, from which the confection gets its name.
在英国，最受欢迎的冰淇淋车产品是 99：一种经典的软冰淇淋，装在威化饼或华夫饼筒中，最重要的是，顶部粘有“99 巧克力片”，这种甜点由此得名。
The 99 Flake, a favorite since the ’30s, is a half-length of a Cadbury Flake chocolate bar.
99 Flake 是 20 世纪 30 年代以来备受喜爱的巧克力棒，它是吉百利片状巧克力棒的半条。
Made of layers of rippled chocolate without a coating, it scatters chocolate shards with every bite and is transportingly delicious.
它由多层波纹巧克力制成，没有涂层，每一口都会散落巧克力碎片，美味无比。
Sadly, this treat has not made it across the pond, but it is such an integral part of the British ice cream van experience that Flake shortages in 2021 were attributed to high ice cream demand due to good weather.
遗憾的是，这种美食并未传到大洋彼岸，但它是英国冰淇淋车体验中不可或缺的一部分，以至于 2021 年的冰片短缺归因于天气好的冰淇淋需求。
But, for me, the classic is an oyster: a scalloped, hinged wafer dipped in mallow and chocolate, with desiccated coconut at the edges, piped full of vanilla soft serve and squiggled madly with monkey’s blood (OK, raspberry sauce).
但对我来说，经典是牡蛎：一种扇形的、铰接的威化饼，浸在锦葵和巧克力中，边缘有干椰子，里面装满了香草软冰淇淋，并疯狂地涂上猴血（好吧，覆盆子酱）。
In the early aughts, when I was working in my dad’s office for the summer holidays, we would stop on our way home for ice cream.
早些时候，当我暑假在爸爸的办公室工作时，我们会在回家的路上停下来吃冰淇淋。
An unspoken secret between us, given that Mum had dinner waiting on the table when we arrived, and would have been appalled to know that a mere seven minutes earlier, we were driving along the seafront, car top down, the salty air whipping my long hair into the ice cream and sticky sauce.
我们之间有一个不言而喻的秘密，因为当我们到达时，妈妈已经在餐桌上准备晚餐了，如果知道仅仅七分钟前，我们沿着海滨行驶，车顶朝下，咸咸的空气将我的长发搅进冰淇淋和粘稠的酱汁中，她会感到震惊。
We would do this most summer nights.
大多数夏天的夜晚我们都会这样做。
And our order was always the same: two oysters, please.
我们点的菜总是一样的：请给我两只牡蛎。
The ice cream men serving us on our blustery English seafront, like John Harkins and his parents, are part of a dynasty that has lasted over two centuries.
在狂风大作的英国海滨为我们服务的冰淇淋工，比如约翰·哈金斯和他的父母，都是一个持续了两个多世纪的王朝的一部分。
It’s an industry that remains strong, with an uncanny ability to adapt to changing times.
这是一个依然强劲的行业，具有适应时代变化的不可思议的能力。
I am fascinated by its survival.
我对它的生存着迷。
After all, along with the long hours, the world of the ice cream van has been beset with accusations of adulteration, ulterior motives, and damage to children.
毕竟，随着工作时间的延长，冰淇淋车的世界已经充斥着掺假、别有用心和伤害儿童的指控。
And even of murder.
甚至谋杀。
No one knows quite where ice cream came from.
没有人确切知道冰淇淋是从哪里来的。
There are all sorts of romantic origin stories: Marco Polo brought ice cream back from China!
这里有各种各样浪漫的起源故事：马可波罗从中国带回来了冰淇淋！
Catherine de’ Médici introduced it to Italy!
凯瑟琳·德·美第奇将它引入意大利！
Sadly, no evidence actually supports either of these theories.
遗憾的是，没有证据真正支持这两种理论。
The earliest suggestion of anything like ice cream being made was in China in the Tang period (AD 618-907), where fermented yogurt made from buffalo, goat, and cow’s milk was thickened with flour, flavored with camphor (a tree extract that tastes like mothballs smell), and then refrigerated.
最早提出制作冰淇淋之类的东西是在唐代（公元 618-907 年）的中国，当时用水牛奶、山羊奶和牛奶制成的发酵酸奶用面粉增稠，用樟脑（一种味道像樟脑丸气味的树木提取物）调味，然后冷藏。
Freezing food by lowering water’s freezing point with salt was first described in India around the fourth century.
通过用盐降低水的冰点来冷冻食物的方法最早于四世纪左右在印度被描述。
But it didn’t arrive in Europe until 1503, where it was mostly used as a party trick.
但直到 1503 年它才传入欧洲，在那里它主要被用作派对上的把戏。
It wasn’t until the mid-seventeenth century that it really took off, in the form of water ices or sorbets in Italy, France, and Spain.
直到十七世纪中叶，它才真正以水冰或果汁冰糕的形式在意大利、法国和西班牙流行起来。
By 1664, dairy-based sweet ices had appeared in Naples.
1664 年，那不勒斯出现了以乳制品为原料的甜冰。
But such delights were still the preserve of the very rich: At the Feast of St. George in 1671, only those diners sitting at Charles II’s table were served a (single) plate of ice cream; others could only look on in envy.
但这样的乐趣仍然是非常富有的人的专利：在 1671 年的圣乔治盛宴上，只有那些坐在查理二世餐桌上的食客才能享用一盘冰淇淋；其他人只能羡慕地看着。
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Things turned a corner in 1843, when a US woman named Nancy Johnson simplified and mechanized the process of making ice cream.
1843 年，事情出现了转机，一位名叫南希·约翰逊 (Nancy Johnson) 的美国妇女简化了冰淇淋的制作过程并实现了机械化。
Cream went into a metal canister, itself held inside a wooden bucket; ice and salt filled the cavity between the bucket and the canister.
奶油被放入金属罐中，金属罐装在木桶内；冰和盐充满了桶和罐之间的空腔。
A mechanized handle rotated, churning the cream over the ice and freezing it smoothly.
机械手柄旋转，将奶油在冰上搅拌并顺利冷冻。
This, along with the newfound commercial availability of ice, finally began to democratize the frozen treat.
这与新发现的冰的商业供应一起，最终开始使冷冻食品大众化。
Slowly, ice cream became part of the street vending scene in London and New York, although there was a certain amount of skepticism around it.
慢慢地，冰淇淋成为伦敦和纽约街头自动售货场景的一部分，尽管对此存在一定程度的怀疑。
No one, not even the ice cream men themselves, would have bet on it surviving 250 years.
没有人，甚至冰淇淋制造商自己，会打赌它能存活 250 年。
As one street seller, interviewed by Henry Mayhew for his book London Labour and the London Poor in 1851, recalled:
一位街头小贩在 1851 年接受亨利·梅休 (Henry Mayhew) 为其著作《伦敦劳工和伦敦穷人》(London Labour and the London Poor) 采访时回忆道：
I don’t think they’ll ever take greatly in the streets.
我不认为他们会在街上大放异彩。
But there is no saying.
但也没有什么说法。
Lord!
主！
How I have seen the people splutter when they’ve tasted them for the first time .
当人们第一次品尝它们时，我是如何看到他们结结巴巴的。
.
。
.
。
One young Irish fellow—he bought an ice of me, and when he had scraped it all together with the spoon, he made a pull at it as if he was drinking beer.
一个年轻的爱尔兰小伙子——他给我买了一块冰，当他用勺子把所有的东西刮到一起时，他像喝啤酒一样用力拉了一下。
In course it was all along his teeth in less than no time, and he stood like a stattey for an instant, and then roared out— ‘Jasus!
当然，很快他的牙齿就全被咬掉了，他像个雕像一样站了一会儿，然后大声喊道：“贾苏斯！”
I am kilt.
我是苏格兰短裙。
The coald shivers is on to me.’
我浑身发抖。
Mayhew documented up to 20 street vendors selling ice cream in London—a pittance compared to the 150 hawking pickled whelks and 300 touting cooked sheep’s trotters.
梅休记录了伦敦多达 20 家出售冰淇淋的街头小贩，与 150 家兜售腌制海螺和 300 家兜售熟羊蹄的摊贩相比，这是微不足道的。
Change came courtesy of Italian immigrants: Economic unrest and a paucity of opportunities caused many Italians to leave Italy in the second half of the nineteenth century.
意大利移民带来了变化：经济动荡和机会匮乏导致许多意大利人在十九世纪下半叶离开意大利。
They settled in London, Glasgow, and New York, and many of them became ice cream vendors.
他们在伦敦、格拉斯哥和纽约定居，其中许多人成为了冰淇淋小贩。
They became known as hokey pokey sellers, possibly as a bowdlerization of their calls: Gelati, ecco un poco!
他们被称为“做作的小贩”，可能是因为他们的叫法是“Gelati，ecco un poco！”。
(Ice cream, here’s a little!)
（冰淇淋，这里有一点！）
By the end of the century, ice cream selling in London had replaced organ grinding as the main occupation of Italian immigrants; in New York, 4,000 ice cream hawkers thronged the streets.
到本世纪末，在伦敦销售冰淇淋已经取代磨风琴成为意大利移民的主要职业；在纽约，4000名冰淇淋小贩挤满了街道。
Selling ice cream has always been a noisy business.
卖冰淇淋一直是一个吵闹的行业。
In the days before refrigeration, it was a race to sell the stuff before it melted, which made it a volume industry in more ways than one: Vendors would attract passersby by calling out their wares, the louder the better.
在冷藏之前的日子里，在融化之前出售这些东西是一场竞赛，这在很多方面使其成为一个批量行业：供应商会通过喊出他们的商品来吸引路人，声音越大越好。
Today, of course, we know the ice cream truck by its chimes.
当然，今天我们通过铃声来了解冰淇淋车。
Their distinctive tinniness evokes a Pavlovian response—what writer Hattie Garrick calls an “auditory Madeleine”—little heads meerkating up at the sound of a jingle, a swarm of short legs propelling their bodies toward the truck.
它们独特的声音唤起了巴甫洛夫式的反应——作家海蒂·加里克称之为“听觉玛德琳”——小脑袋一听到叮当声就抬起头，一群短腿将身体推向卡车。
(Although if you were a child in the last three decades in Britain, you may have fallen victim to the greatest betrayal of our time: wily parents convincing young children that the chimes meant the ice cream truck had run out of ice cream.)
（尽管如果你是过去三十年里英国的一个孩子，你可能已经成为我们这个时代最大背叛的受害者：狡猾的父母让年幼的孩子相信铃声意味着冰淇淋车里的冰淇淋已经用完了。）
Their distinctive tinniness evokes a Pavlovian response—what writer Hattie Garrick calls an “auditory Madeleine”—little heads meerkating up at the sound of a jingle, a swarm of short legs propelling their bodies toward the truck.
它们独特的声音唤起了巴甫洛夫式的反应——作家海蒂·加里克称之为“听觉玛德琳”——小脑袋一听到叮当声就抬起头，一群短腿将身体推向卡车。
Seemingly innocent, these Pied Piper chimes have, in fact, always harbored an element of subversion.
这些花衣魔笛手的编钟看似天真无邪，实际上却始终蕴藏着颠覆的元素。
In the UK, regulations strictly control the chimes.
在英国，法规严格控制铃声。
In 2013, guidelines from the UK’s Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs relaxed a bit, permitting jingles in 12-second bursts, rather than the previous four, but only once every two minutes, at 80 decibels or less, between the hours of 12 and 7 p.m., and not in the vicinity of schools, hospitals, places of worship, or in sight of another van.
2013年，英国环境、食品和农村事务部的指导方针有所放松，允许在中午12点至7点之间播放12秒的歌曲，而不是之前的四秒，但只能每两分钟播放一次，声音不得超过80分贝，而且不得在学校、医院、礼拜场所附近或其他货车的视线范围内播放。
Historically, people have been very, very cross about the disruption these jolly chimes can cause.
从历史上看，人们对这些欢乐的钟声可能造成的破坏非常非常恼火。
Outrage at ice cream truck music frequently made it into parliamentary discussions, and the chairman of the Nuneaton and District Trades Council once denounced truck jingles as “death chimes” because of the risk of children being killed in traffic accidents while running behind the trucks.
对冰淇淋车音乐的愤怒经常成为议会讨论的话题，纽尼顿和地区贸易委员会主席曾谴责卡车叮当声是“死亡钟声”，因为儿童在追随卡车时有可能在交通事故中丧生。
Fortunately, movement-detecting cameras and sensors have now reduced this risk.
幸运的是，运动检测摄像头和传感器现在已经降低了这种风险。
In 1952, Rosie Monfredi, who had previously been fined for blasting her horn whenever she stopped her ice cream truck, was prosecuted for playing “Auld Lang Syne” from an amplified music box she’d fitted, or as the arresting officer put it: “tintinnabulation from some electrical device.” How times change: Today, many complain that they don’t hear ice cream truck chimes anymore.
1952 年，罗西·蒙弗雷迪 (Rosie Monfredi) 因用她安装的扩音音乐盒播放《友谊地久天长》(Auld Lang Syne) 而被起诉，或者用逮捕警官的话来说：“用某种电子设备进行叮咬”。时代如何变迁：如今，许多人抱怨他们再也听不到冰淇淋车的铃声了。
It’s tempting to assume this means the ice cream truck is dying out, but the 250-year-old industry is merely evolving.
人们很容易认为这意味着冰淇淋车即将消亡，但这个拥有 250 年历史的行业只是在不断发展。
These trucks have not yet met the foe who could vanquish them for good.
这些卡车还没有遇到能够永远击败它们的敌人。
The icey men (as they refer to themselves) will not be dissuaded from their calling—even when the very product they are touting becomes the problem.
冰冷的人（他们自称）不会被劝阻，放弃他们的使命——即使他们所兜售的产品本身出现了问题。
Public health has been at war with ice cream vendors since the very beginning.
从一开始，公共卫生就一直与冰淇淋供应商交战。
Certainly, in the early days, sellers cared little for sanitation, and it showed.
当然，在早期，卖家不太关心卫生问题，这一点已经表明了。
The first ice cream trucks were barrows, which sold “penny licks”—small quantities of ice cream sold in a glass, that the customer would, as the name suggests, lick, before returning the glass to the ice cream man.
第一辆冰淇淋车是手推车，出售“penny licks”——装在玻璃杯中出售的少量冰淇淋，顾名思义，顾客会舔一下，然后将玻璃杯归还给冰淇淋店老板。
Vendors swilled the glass in a tub of water before filling it for the next customer.
供应商先将玻璃杯放入一桶水中，然后再为下一位顾客倒水。
When health inspectors analyzed penny licks, they found “human hair, coal dust, bed straw, animal hair, fleas, and other bugs.” Unsurprisingly, given the method of consumption and the laissez-faire cleaning method, ice cream was blamed for several mass outbreaks of illness.
当卫生检查员分析便士舔时，他们发现了“人的头发、煤尘、稻草、动物毛发、跳蚤和其他虫子”。毫不奇怪，鉴于其消费方式和自由放任的清洁方法，冰淇淋被指责为数起大规模疾病爆发的罪魁祸首。
Certainly, in the early days, sellers cared little for sanitation, and it showed.
当然，在早期，卖家不太关心卫生问题，这一点已经表明了。
But even after cones and cups and basic hygiene measures became standard, contamination remained a pressing issue.
但即使在锥体和杯子以及基本卫生措施成为标准之后，污染仍然是一个紧迫的问题。
Starting in the ’20s, Harry Burt’s Good Humor ice cream trucks in Youngstown, Ohio, traded on an image of cleanliness: His men wore crisp white milkman-like uniforms and equally crisp, white caps.
从 20 年代开始，哈利·伯特 (Harry Burt) 在俄亥俄州扬斯敦开办的 Good Humor 冰淇淋车就以干净的形象为卖点：他的员工穿着清爽的白色送奶工制服，戴着同样清爽的白色帽子。
Good Humor even took out an ad in the ’30s which read, “Good Humor’s purity never is sullied by careless hands, unclean air, sloppy packing.
Good Humor甚至在30年代还推出过一则广告，上面写着：“Good Humor的纯洁性永远不会被粗心的双手、不洁的空气、马虎的包装所玷污。
Good Humor always comes clean.”
好的幽默总是干净的。”
But in 1975, the company—now a subsidiary of Unilever—was charged with 244 counts of falsifying records to hide evidence of excessive coliform bacteria in their products.
但在 1975 年，该公司（现为联合利华子公司）被指控犯有 244 项伪造记录罪，以隐藏其产品中大肠菌超标的证据。
The New York City prosecutors alleged that 10 percent of the company’s ice cream was tainted.
纽约市检察官声称该公司 10% 的冰淇淋受到污染。
The company was fined $85,000 and forced to modernize its production facilities.
该公司被罚款 85,000 美元，并被迫对其生产设施进行现代化改造。
But it quickly abandoned mobile ice cream vending altogether.
但它很快就完全放弃了移动冰淇淋自动售货机。
For the most part, other sanitation issues in the ice cream industry were resolved with improved environmental health and hygiene knowledge.
在很大程度上，冰淇淋行业的其他卫生问题是通过提高环境健康和卫生知识来解决的。
But death still followed the chimes of the ice cream truck.
但死亡仍然伴随着冰淇淋车的铃声。
The outskirts of Glasgow, Scotland, 1982.
苏格兰格拉斯哥郊区，1982 年。
After the Second World War, the local council had constructed a clutch of purpose-built social housing estates outside the city center to house lower-income families.
第二次世界大战后，地方议会在市中心外建造了一系列专门建造的社会住房，为低收入家庭提供住房。
In theory, these would radically raise the living standards of the occupants, who had previously been living in significantly smaller, run-down accommodations without indoor lavatories.
从理论上讲，这些将从根本上提高居住者的生活水平，他们以前住在小得多、破旧的住所里，没有室内厕所。
In reality, though, the inhabitants were stranded on the city’s edges with little infrastructure: no pubs, no supermarkets, and limited bus routes.
但实际上，居民被困在城市边缘，基础设施很少：没有酒吧，没有超市，公交车路线也有限。
Cue the chimes!
提示铃声！
Ice cream trucks to the rescue—but not just as purveyors of frozen treats.
冰淇淋卡车可以拯救我们——但不仅仅是冷冻食品的供应商。
With established routes and hardware, it was easy to start carrying more products.
有了既定的路线和硬件，就可以轻松开始运输更多产品。
While they continued to advertise ice cream, they became more like mobile corner shops, selling everything you’d find at a newsagent’s or bodega.
虽然他们继续为冰淇淋做广告，但他们变得更像流动的街角商店，出售你在报刊亭或杂货店找到的所有东西。
John Harkins’s parents ran one of those trucks.
约翰·哈金斯的父母经营其中一辆卡车。
“Every van kept the full range of chocolate and sweets that you would get at a corner shop,” he says.
“每辆货车都备有各种巧克力和糖果，你可以在街角商店买到，”他说。
“Sometimes as many as 40 types of crisps.
“有时薯片的种类多达 40 种。
All the glass bottles and drinks, cigarettes.
所有的玻璃瓶、饮料、香烟。
Everything down to the little things: kids’ dummies, little tubes of petrol to reload your lighter with, matches.” These trucks would visit 10 or 12 stops three times each night, and every stop had a rush of customers.
一切都细化到了小事：儿童奶嘴、给打火机重新装满的小汽油管、火柴。”这些卡车每晚会停靠10、12个站点3次，每个站点都挤满了顾客。
They were as much entertainment as they were functional.
它们既具有功能性，又具有娱乐性。
By the early ’80s, the trucks operated all over the Glasgow housing schemes, making a tidy profit—money that was too tempting for some.
到了 80 年代初，卡车在格拉斯哥的各个住房项目中运营，赚取了可观的利润——这笔钱对某些人来说太诱人了。
Turf wars among ice cream trucks are nothing new, but this was different.
冰淇淋车之间的地盘争夺战并不是什么新鲜事，但这一次有所不同。
New gangs appeared in their own trucks on established routes, using violence, criminal damage, and threats to intimidate the regular drivers until they relinquished their area.
新的团伙开着自己的卡车出现在既定路线上，使用暴力、刑事破坏和威胁来恐吓普通司机，直到他们放弃自己的区域。
As the late afternoons rolled around and residents rushed out with shopping lists and cash in hand, serious violence and police raids became an inevitability.
随着下午晚些时候，居民们带着购物清单和手上的现金涌出，严重的暴力和警察突袭成为不可避免的事情。
Turf wars among ice cream trucks are nothing new, but this was different.
冰淇淋车之间的地盘争夺战并不是什么新鲜事，但这一次有所不同。
The Glasgow Ice Cream Van Wars sound like they had all the elements of a cozy crime novel, but the reality was very different.
格拉斯哥冰淇淋车战争听起来像是一本舒适的犯罪小说的所有元素，但现实却截然不同。
The city’s Serious Crime Squad was dispatched to investigate and stop the fighting, but quickly became the object of derision, renamed by the locals as the Serious Chimes Squad, thanks to their inability to apprehend the perpetrators.
该市的重案组被派去调查并制止战斗，但很快就成为嘲笑的对象，由于无法逮捕肇事者，当地人将其更名为重案组。
Disaster struck one night in 1984.
1984 年的一个晚上，灾难降临了。
Andrew “Fat Boy” Doyle, an 18-year-old driver of one of the established Marchetti trucks, had refused to capitulate to rival drivers, sticking to his usual route.
安德鲁·“胖子”·多伊尔 (Andrew “Fat Boy” Doyle) 是一名 18 岁的司机，他是一辆老牌 Marchetti 卡车的司机，他拒绝向竞争对手的司机屈服，坚持走自己惯常的路线。
In the small, dark hours of April 16, someone poured gas through the letterbox of the Doyle family flat.
4 月 16 日天黑时分，有人向多伊尔家公寓的信箱里倒入汽油。
A single match was thrown.
扔了一根火柴。
Moments later, flames consumed the residence.
片刻之后，大火吞噬了这座住宅。
Neighbors left their flats in pyjamas, peering from concrete balconies, crowding the bottom of the building.
邻居们穿着睡衣离开公寓，从混凝土阳台上往外看，挤在大楼的底部。
Some never made it out alive; others did, only to die on the way to the hospital.
有些人最终没能活着出来；其他人也这样做了，但在送往医院的途中死亡。
Six people were killed, including Andrew, his sister, and his sister’s 18-month-old baby.
六人死亡，其中包括安德鲁、他的妹妹以及他妹妹 18 个月大的婴儿。
It was the largest mass murder in Scotland at that time.
这是当时苏格兰最大规模的谋杀案。
All over an ice cream truck route.
遍布冰淇淋车路线。
Thomas “TC” Campbell and Joe Steele, who were running the rival ice cream trucks, were charged with six counts of murder.
经营竞争对手冰淇淋车的托马斯·“TC”·坎贝尔和乔·斯蒂尔被指控犯有六项谋杀罪。
They were convicted unanimously and sentenced to life with a minimum of 20 years in prison.
他们被一致定罪并被判处无期徒刑，并至少判处 20 年监禁。
Appeals, hunger strikes, and prison breaks followed.
上诉、绝食抗议和越狱接踵而至。
At one point, Steele escaped and superglued himself to the gates of Buckingham Palace.
有一次，斯蒂尔逃脱了，并将自己粘在白金汉宫的大门上。
Two successive appeals failed, but in 2004, the convictions were quashed after new expert evidence threw doubt on the original confessions supposedly recorded by police.
连续两次上诉均以失败告终，但在 2004 年，新的专家证据对据称由警方记录的原始供词提出了质疑，定罪被撤销。
Campbell and Steele were both freed: a mess of an investigation, a mess of a court case, a mess of justice.
坎贝尔和斯蒂尔都被释放了：调查一团糟，法庭案件一团糟，正义一团糟。
It was the largest mass murder in Scotland at that time.
这是当时苏格兰最大规模的谋杀案。
All over an ice cream truck route.
遍布冰淇淋车路线。
Today, it is widely accepted that these turf wars escalated because the ice cream trucks were fronts for drug-dealing, but there is little evidence to prove this was the case.
如今，人们普遍认为，这些地盘争夺战之所以升级，是因为冰淇淋车是毒品交易的幌子，但几乎没有证据证明情况确实如此。
Contemporary accounts from those at the heart of the conflict, including ice cream truck driver Teddy Rennoc, instead suggest that the principal income stream of the trucks came from the stuff they were supposed to be selling.
相反，包括冰淇淋卡车司机泰迪·伦诺克（Teddy Rennoc）在内的冲突核心人士的当代叙述表明，卡车的主要收入来源来自他们本应销售的东西。
(And okay, fine, maybe a little fencing of stolen goods.) Drugs were never really part of it—it was too good an enterprise to be a front.
（好吧，好吧，也许可以对赃物进行一点围栏。）毒品从来都不是其中的一部分——这是一个太好的企业，不能成为幌子。
Still, ice cream trucks have struggled to shake the association.
尽管如此，冰淇淋车仍难以撼动这一协会。
In his book A Folklorist Looks at Ice Cream Vans, academic folklorist Owen Davies identifies this as “memorate formation,” where an individual experience becomes part of the collective memory.
学术民俗学家欧文·戴维斯在他的著作《民俗学家看冰淇淋车》中将其定义为“记忆形成”，个人经历成为集体记忆的一部分。
“Despite successful prosecutions,” he writes, “drug dealing from ice cream vans were, and are, rare .
“尽管起诉成功，”他写道，“但冰淇淋车上的毒品交易过去和现在都很少见……。
.
。
.
。
false rumours that have blended inextricably with facts.” The ice cream man bogeyman became an indelible part of cultural mythology in the UK—as well as in the US, as evinced by the Cheech and Chong movie Nice Dreams—although one that the lure of soft serve has somehow managed to overcome.
虚假谣言与事实密不可分。”冰淇淋男妖已经成为英国文化神话中不可磨灭的一部分，在美国也是如此，Cheech 和 Chong 的电影《美好的梦想》就证明了这一点，尽管软冰淇淋的诱惑在某种程度上已经克服了这个神话。
Before the ice cream routes became a problem, the vehicles themselves presented their own issues.
在冰淇淋路线成为问题之前，车辆本身也存在自己的问题。
Mobile ice cream selling may have been going on for at least a century, but making and dispensing it in a motorized vehicle has been a surprisingly complex development.
移动冰淇淋销售可能已经持续了至少一个世纪，但在机动车辆中制作和分发冰淇淋却是一个令人惊讶的复杂发展。
It began with jerry-rigged systems—people buying ice cream machines to add to their trucks.
它始于偷工减料的系统——人们购买冰淇淋机并添加到他们的卡车上。
Reliable ice cream trucks need shock absorbers and the ability to keep the machine cool, so makeshift machines quickly broke down.
可靠的冰淇淋车需要减震器和保持机器凉爽的能力，因此临时机器很快就会出现故障。
In the ’50s, the Sweden Freezer company in Philadelphia saw a huge boom in machine sales, which were added to flawed truck systems.
20 世纪 50 年代，位于费城的瑞典冷冻公司看到了机器销售的巨大繁荣，这些机器被添加到有缺陷的卡车系统中。
Two brothers working for the company, William and James Conway, realized that there was mileage in reliable truck-specific soft-serve machines, but when they went to Sweden Freezer with their plan, they were met with little enthusiasm.
为该公司工作的两兄弟威廉·康威和詹姆斯·康威意识到可靠的卡车专用软服务机是有潜力的，但当他们带着自己的计划前往瑞典冷冻机时，却没有得到什么热情。
So, on St. Patrick’s Day, 1956, the Conways took out their own properly-kitted truck and sold their ice cream for 10 cents a cone.
因此，在 1956 年的圣帕特里克节那天，康威一家开出了他们自己装备齐全的卡车，以每甜筒 10 美分的价格出售他们的冰淇淋。
They’d even dyed the soft serve a lurid green for the occasion.
为了这个场合，他们甚至把软冰淇淋染成了鲜艳的绿色。
It was a hit, and the Conway brothers left Sweden Freezer to set up their own business, Mister Softee, focusing specifically on producing ice cream machines for trucks.
该产品一炮而红，康威兄弟离开瑞典冰箱公司，创办了自己的企业 Mister Softee，专门生产卡车冰淇淋机。
The green soft serve fell by the wayside (not all innovations are good), but their trucks were here to stay.
绿色软冰淇淋被半途而废（并非所有创新都是好的），但他们的卡车却留了下来。
One person who almost certainly saw the Conways’ Mister Softee truck in its early days was Dominic Facchino.
几乎可以肯定，多米尼克·法基诺 (Dominic Facchino) 是早期见过康威 Mister Softee 卡车的人之一。
He returned to the UK and launched Mr. Whippy, which quickly became the British ice cream van.
他回到英国并推出了 Mr. Whippy，它很快就成为了英国的冰淇淋车。
It’s hard to think of more British branding: In addition to the stiff-upper-lip name, Facchino brought his fervent love of King Henry VIII to his trucks.
很难想象还有比这更英国的品牌了：除了严肃的名字之外，法基诺还将他对亨利八世国王的热爱带到了他的卡车上。
Mr. Whippy truck chimes almost always played “Greensleeves” (which was wrongly credited to Henry VIII).
威皮先生的卡车铃声几乎总是播放“绿袖子”（这被错误地归功于亨利八世）。
The Mr. Whippy logo was a cartoon head with a Henry VIII-style beret and dancing feet.
Mr. Whippy 的标志是一个卡通头像，戴着亨利八世风格的贝雷帽和跳舞的脚。
So, on St. Patrick’s Day, 1956, the Conways took out their own properly-kitted truck and sold their ice cream for 10 cents a cone.
因此，在 1956 年的圣帕特里克节那天，康威一家开出了他们自己装备齐全的卡车，以每甜筒 10 美分的价格出售他们的冰淇淋。
They’d even dyed the soft serve a lurid green for the occasion.
为了这个场合，他们甚至把软冰淇淋染成了鲜艳的绿色。
But despite their jaunty trappings, these trucks still had issues.
尽管这些卡车外表华丽，但仍然存在问题。
Enter the company Whitby Morrison, which has turned solving ice cream problems into a dynasty.
惠特比莫里森公司 (Whitby Morrison) 进入了这个公司，该公司将解决冰淇淋问题变成了一个王朝。
Founder Bryan Whitby was a tinkerer and a problem solver: People would often come to him with engineering head-scratchers that others had turned down, and he’d take them on.
创始人布莱恩·惠特比 (Bryan Whitby) 是一位修补匠和问题解决者：人们经常带着其他人拒绝的工程难题来找他，而他会接受他们。
After a military stint, he returned to his hometown of Crewe in Northwestern England, where he began working in refrigeration engineering, a relatively new industry.
服完兵役后，他回到英格兰西北部的家乡克鲁，开始从事制冷工程这一相对较新的行业。
A large ice cream truck manufacturer hired him to fit machines into vans powered by generators.
一家大型冰淇淋车制造商聘请他将机器安装到由发电机驱动的货车中。
But the generators were heavy, dirty, and inefficient.
但发电机笨重、肮脏且效率低下。
Whitby was sure there was a better way.
惠特比确信有更好的方法。
He developed the direct drive system, which uses the van engine itself to power the machine.
他开发了直接驱动系统，该系统使用货车发动机本身为机器提供动力。
When the van stops, the clutch engages, turning the shaft to pump refrigerant around the ice cream and start the paddles to aerate the soft serve.
当货车停止时，离合器接合，转动轴将制冷剂泵入冰淇淋周围，并启动桨叶为软冰淇淋充气。
The all-in-one system proved revolutionary; it swept UK trucks and quickly spread globally as well.
事实证明，这一一体化系统是革命性的。它席卷了英国卡车并迅速传播到全球。
The Whitby Morrison factory sits on the edge of an anonymous-looking industrial estate in Crewe.
惠特比莫里森工厂坐落在克鲁一个看似无名的工业区的边缘。
As I approach, there’s one lorry unloading in a nearby lot, and a couple of cars using the snicket in the estate to perform three-point turns and reroute themselves.
当我走近时，一辆卡车正在附近的停车场卸货，几辆汽车利用庄园里的小路进行三点转弯并重新规划路线。
The car park itself is quiet.
停车场本身很安静。
But pass through two doors and don a pair of safety glasses, and it’s a very different story.
但穿过两扇门并戴上一副安全眼镜，情况就完全不同了。
The factory is a hive of careful activity: As you pass through the rooms, the trucks reveal themselves.
工厂是一个充满小心活动的蜂巢：当你穿过房间时，卡车就会显露出来。
First, the carcasses, then the fibreglass sprayers.
首先是尸体，然后是玻璃纤维喷雾器。
Freezers are dipped into formers and filled with insulation, while steps away, an electrician’s station is surrounded by reels of cables and wires and half-finished circuit boards.
冰柜被浸入成型器中并填充绝缘材料，几步之遥，一个电工站周围是一卷卷的电缆和电线以及半成品电路板。
Trucks line up in various stages of fitting out, awaiting their swanky Carpigiani soft serve machines, their fridges, and slushy barrels.
卡车在不同的装修阶段排队，等待着时髦的卡皮贾尼软冰淇淋机、冰箱和泥浆桶。
The real transformation happens in the final spaces, where the trucks take on their true colors.
真正的转变发生在最后的空间，卡车呈现出它们真正的颜色。
You smell the paint before you see it, fumes catching in your throat as you round the corner to freshly sprayed bubblegum pink, primrose yellow, and sea-foam green.
还没看到油漆，你就已经闻到了油漆的味道，当你转过拐角，看到刚喷洒的泡泡糖粉、报春花黄和海泡绿时，烟雾就噎在了你的喉咙里。
Next door, things are even more colorful.
隔壁的东西更加丰富多彩。
Artists with palettes covered in a dozen different jewel tones hand-paint Disney characters onto panels.
艺术家们用覆盖有十几种不同宝石色调的调色板将迪士尼人物手绘到面板上。
Giant, lit-from-the-inside ice cream cones are ready to be attached to the front of a truck like horns.
巨大的内部发光冰淇淋筒已准备好像喇叭一样安装在卡车的前部。
Every part is made in the factory.
每个零件都是在工厂制造的。
The bare chassis enters the warehouse and leaves as a complete, functioning ice cream truck.
裸露的底盘进入仓库，离开时成为一辆完整的、功能正常的冰淇淋车。
It feels like its own, contained world.
感觉就像它自己的、封闭的世界。
You smell the paint before you see it, fumes catching in your throat as you round the corner to freshly sprayed bubblegum pink, primrose yellow, and sea-foam green.
还没看到油漆，你就已经闻到了油漆的味道，当你转过拐角，看到刚喷洒的泡泡糖粉、报春花黄和海泡绿时，烟雾就噎在了你的喉咙里。
The virtue of the direct drive system created by Whitby Morrison has, in turn, become its own issue.
惠特比·莫里森（Whitby Morrison）创建的直接驱动系统的优点反过来也成为了它自己的问题。
The biggest challenge now facing ice cream trucks is an environmental one.
冰淇淋车现在面临的最大挑战是环境挑战。
They have become the target of clean air campaigners, who object to idling truck emissions near schools or playgrounds.
它们已成为清洁空气活动人士的目标，他们反对在学校或操场附近空转卡车排放废气。
The direct drive system means that, even when the truck is stationary, its engine runs to power the ice cream mechanics.
直接驱动系统意味着，即使卡车静止不动，其发动机也会运转，为冰淇淋机械提供动力。
In the UK, campaigners have been calling for ice cream bans for some time: Along with the introduction of the ultra-low emission zone (ULEZ) in London, several councils have banned ice cream trucks from a host of roads in their boroughs, making it a maze of areas where trucks are simply not allowed to go.
在英国，活动人士呼吁禁止冰淇淋已经有一段时间了：随着伦敦超低排放区（ULEZ）的推出，几个议会禁止冰淇淋车在其行政区的许多道路上行驶，使卡车根本不允许通行的地区变成了迷宫。
So Whitby Morrison returned to what it does best: problem-solving.
因此，惠特比莫里森回到了它最擅长的领域：解决问题。
The pandemic was, in many ways, catastrophic for the ice cream industry; the Ice Cream Alliance reported industry losses of $388 million for 2020.
从很多方面来说，这场流行病对冰淇淋行业来说都是灾难性的。冰淇淋联盟报告 2020 年行业损失达 3.88 亿美元。
But it gave Whitby Morrison the time to rethink the very make-up of their trucks.
但这让惠特比·莫里森有时间重新思考卡车的结构。
It developed the ice cream truck equivalent of a hybrid vehicle, which separates the engine from the ice cream machine mechanics, to be powered by a stand-alone battery, meaning no idling when the ice cream truck stops.
它开发了相当于混合动力汽车的冰淇淋车，将发动机与冰淇淋机机械装置分开，由独立电池供电，这意味着冰淇淋车停止时不会空转。
And the company has now set its sights even higher.
该公司现在将目标定得更高。
The day I visit the factory is a momentous one: Whitby Morrison has just taken delivery of the first all-electric chassis from Mercedes, which will allow them to produce an entirely electric truck, where electricity powers the vehicle and ice cream machinery.
我参观工厂的那天是一个重要的日子：惠特比·莫里森刚刚从梅赛德斯收到了第一个全电动底盘，这将使他们能够生产一辆全电动卡车，电力为车辆和冰淇淋机械提供动力。
This is a slow and expensive process, and has been difficult to achieve for prosaic reasons concerning permitted weight of vehicles and heavy batteries—but it’s still a step toward solving another problem and future-proofing the ice cream truck for the next generation.
这是一个缓慢而昂贵的过程，并且由于车辆和重型电池的允许重量等普通原因而难以实现，但这仍然是朝着解决另一个问题和面向下一代冰淇淋车的未来迈出的一步。
We’re a long way from the short-lived green soft serve of the Conway brothers, but the future for ice cream needs to be green.
我们距离康威兄弟昙花一现的绿色软冰淇淋还有很长的路要走，但冰淇淋的未来必须是绿色的。
While a new Whitby Morrison truck will currently set you back up to $218,000, there is no shortage of demand, and there’s a waiting list for those desperate to get into the industry or upgrade their current truck.
虽然一辆新的惠特比莫里森卡车目前售价高达 218,000 美元，但需求并不缺乏，对于那些渴望进入该行业或升级现有卡车的人来说，有一个等待名单。
What is clear, however, is that far fewer of these trucks are on the street: The Ice Cream Alliance estimates that between 2,500 and 5,000 trucks are currently operating in the UK, but that only a fraction of them are actually out and about.
然而，显而易见的是，街上行驶的卡车数量要少得多：冰淇淋联盟估计，目前英国有 2,500 至 5,000 辆卡车在运营，但实际上只有一小部分在行驶。
It seems likely that many of these trucks have permanent pitches or are used at private events, rather than the classic mobile vending of previous years.
这些卡车中的许多似乎都有永久摊位或用于私人活动，而不是前几年的经典移动自动售货机。
In other words, we may be hearing fewer chimes, but wedding planners sure aren’t.
换句话说，我们听到的铃声可能会减少，但婚礼策划者肯定不会。
Dotty has an old-school, understated elegance.
多蒂有一种老式的、低调的优雅。
You’ll find her at a summer wedding, bedecked in bunting and flowers: Guests dressed to impress mingle around her, lean on the ledge of her serving hatch, and watch the bride and groom pose with ice cream cones.
你会在一场夏季婚礼上看到她，身上挂着彩旗和鲜花：盛装打扮的宾客们围在她身边，靠在她的服务舱口的壁架上，看着新娘和新郎拿着蛋卷冰淇淋摆姿势。
She’s a visual shorthand for the (hopefully) uncomplicated, old-fashioned happiness being celebrated.
她是所庆祝的（希望是）简单的、老式的幸福的视觉速记。
Dotty is a vintage Bedford van, painted a simple, unadorned clotted cream, and she is Adele Ashmore’s pride and joy.
多蒂是一辆老式贝德福德货车，漆成简单、朴实的凝乳奶油色，她是阿黛尔·阿什莫尔的骄傲和喜悦。
If owners look like their dogs, Ashmore has the same vintage elegance as her van.
如果主人看起来像他们的狗，阿什莫尔和她的货车一样具有复古优雅。
She’s a visual shorthand for the (hopefully) uncomplicated, old-fashioned happiness being celebrated.
她是所庆祝的（希望是）简单的、老式的幸福的视觉速记。
Adele is unusual in the ice cream truck world—both as a woman and as a newcomer to an industry so often built on legacy.
阿黛尔（Adele）在冰淇淋车行业中是不寻常的——无论是作为一名女性，还是作为这个往往建立在传统基础上的行业的新人。
When she left her career in HR, she was looking for something different.
当她离开人力资源部门时，她正在寻找不同的工作。
In Dotty, she found a classic van that needed some love, and saw an opportunity.
在多蒂身上，她发现了一辆需要关爱的经典货车，并看到了机会。
“I wanted something special—not just another ice cream van, but a curated experience,” she says.
“我想要一些特别的东西——不仅仅是另一辆冰淇淋车，而是一次精心策划的体验，”她说。
“Weddings and private events allow me to work closely with people to offer something personal, elegant, and memorable.
“婚礼和私人活动让我能够与人们密切合作，提供个性化、优雅且令人难忘的东西。
It’s less about volume and more about quality and atmosphere.”
重要的不是数量，而是质量和氛围。”
Tapping into nostalgia and vintage vibes may be relatively new in the world of ice cream trucks, but it’s also an obvious and successful attempt to overcome the trip hazards of the modern ice cream truck world.
在冰淇淋车的世界里，利用怀旧和复古的氛围可能是相对较新的事情，但这也是克服现代冰淇淋车世界的旅行危险的明显而成功的尝试。
Trucks channel the excitement that goes hand-in-hand with big events.
卡车传递着与大型活动齐头并进的兴奋感。
And in turn, event work dispenses with so many of the variables that have plagued the icey men for years: booked far in advance, with a fixed fee and fixed hours, come rain or shine.
反过来，活动工作消除了多年来困扰冰人的许多变数：提前预订，固定费用和固定时间，无论风雨无阻。
Chimes are charming, rather than by-law infractions.
钟声很迷人，而不是违法行为。
There are no turf wars, no whinging about emissions or childhood obesity.
没有地盘之争，没有对排放或儿童肥胖的抱怨。
It just makes sense.
这很有道理。
Today, the truck itself is as iconic as the ice cream it serves.
如今，卡车本身就像它所提供的冰淇淋一样具有标志性。
Despite its boxy aesthetic, there’s something aspirational about it.
尽管它具有四四方方的美感，但它还是有一些令人向往的东西。
While filming the Harry Potter movies, Rupert Grint, who played Ron, bought a 1974 Bedford Mr. Whippy van, fulfilling his childhood dream of becoming an ice cream man.
在拍摄《哈利·波特》电影时，扮演罗恩的鲁珀特·格林特购买了一辆 1974 年的贝德福德 Mr. Whippy 面包车，实现了他儿时成为冰淇淋工的梦想。
(He learned the van’s appeal the hard way: A bunch of local kids tried to buy 99s from him while he was performing a U-turn in a pub carpark.
（他通过惨痛的经历了解到了这辆货车的吸引力：当他在酒吧停车场掉头时，一群当地的孩子试图从他那里购买 99。
Now he stocks the van and gives ice cream and lollies away for free.)
现在他给货车备货，并免费赠送冰淇淋和棒棒糖。）
And the celebrated ice cream truck has attracted an even younger generation of sellers: the TikTok generation.
著名的冰淇淋车吸引了更年轻的一代卖家：TikTok 一代。
This influx of newcomers does things differently as well, unconstrained by the tradition and form of the multi-generational vendors.
新来者的涌入也以不同的方式做事，不受多代供应商的传统和形式的限制。
JJ’s Ices, which chronicles its ice cream journey with short videos, has over 1.2 million followers on TikTok.
JJ's Ices 通过短视频记录了其冰淇淋之旅，在 TikTok 上拥有超过 120 万粉丝。
Rather than streamlining its selections, as many traditional trucks are doing, it’s expanding: Alongside cones, JJ’s offers a host of sundaes, hot desserts (brownies, waffles, and cakes), and “cold trays.” These cold trays are based on soft serve, but they’re the inverse of the simple and predictable 99 cones.
JJ's 并没有像许多传统卡车那样简化其选择，而是不断扩展：除了甜筒之外，JJ’s 还提供一系列圣代、热甜点（布朗尼蛋糕、华夫饼和蛋糕）和“冷盘”。这些冷盘以软冰淇淋为基础，但它们与简单且可预测的 99 个甜筒相反。
These trays use biscuit crumbs, crushed chocolate bars, sprinkles, sherberts, pick ‘n’ mix sweets, and multiple flavored sauces.
这些托盘使用饼干屑、碎巧克力棒、糖屑、果子露、挑选混合糖果和多种口味的酱汁。
They’re a technicolor, maximalist mess, a child’s fever dream.
它们是彩色的、极繁主义的混乱，是孩子们的狂热梦想。
The videos of them being made are mesmerizing: I count nine different sauces used in one tray, and feel viscerally soothed by the end of the video.
他们制作的视频令人着迷：我数了数一个托盘中使用了九种不同的酱汁，视频结束时我感到发自内心的安慰。
And there’s money to be made if you can convince your followers you’re doing something new.
如果你能让你的追随者相信你正在做一些新的事情，那就可以赚到钱。
De La Creams posted a recent TikTok featuring its latest ice cream cone, which contains seven squiggles of soft serve, three flakes, and a whole handful of other bits and bobs.
De La Creams 最近发布了一条 TikTok，展示了其最新的蛋卷冰淇淋，其中包含七片冰淇淋、三片冰激凌和一大堆其他小玩意儿。
Sure, it retails at a whopping $13.50 (a regular 99 would set you back around $4).
当然，它的零售价高达 13.50 美元（普通 99 美元大约需要 4 美元）。
But the price creates virality, which in turn brings the crowds.
但价格创造了病毒式传播，进而带来了人群。
Ice cream from a van is ephemeral.
货车上的冰淇淋是短暂的。
There’s only a matter of seconds before a Mr. Whippy becomes a Mr. Drippy.
只需几秒钟的时间，“Mr. Whippy”就会变成“Mr. Drippy”。
It forces you to live in the moment.
它迫使你活在当下。
When thinking about the dominance and appeal of soft serve, Ed Whitby, Bryan Whitby’s grandson and the third Whitby generation (along with his two brothers) to manage Whitby Morrison, sees soft serve as an experience.
在思考软发球的主导地位和吸引力时，布莱恩·惠特比的孙子、管理惠特比·莫里森的第三代惠特比（以及他的两个兄弟）埃德·惠特比将软发球视为一种体验。
“You can’t have a 99 ice cream at home,” he says.
“你在家不可能吃到 99 的冰淇淋，”他说。
“It’s not just the taste of the product; it’s going to the van.
“这不仅仅是产品的味道；还在于货车的味道。
Nothing can replicate that.” Mike Conway Jr.—who, along with his cousin, now heads up Mister Softee as the third generation of the company—agrees: “If you go to a food store, you can basically get any hard ice cream you want, any frozen bar you want, but you’re not bringing home soft serve.”
没有什么可以复制这一点。”小迈克·康威 (Mike Conway Jr.) 和他的表弟现在是 Mister Softee 公司的第三代掌门人，他也同意这一观点：“如果你去食品店，基本上可以买到任何你想要的硬冰淇淋、任何你想要的冷冻棒，但你不会把软冰淇淋带回家。”
Ice cream from a van is ephemeral.
货车上的冰淇淋是短暂的。
There’s only a matter of seconds before a Mr. Whippy becomes a Mr. Drippy.
只需几秒钟的时间，“Mr. Whippy”就会变成“Mr. Drippy”。
Whitby Morrison recently became the official sponsor of the football team Crewe Alexandra.
惠特比莫里森最近成为克鲁亚历山德拉足球队的官方赞助商。
While filming for the launch of the team’s away kit on a beachfront cliff, they brought along one of their client vans, and every single member of the Crewe team wanted a 99—because that’s the ice cream van experience.
当在海滨悬崖上拍摄球队客场球衣的发布会时，他们带来了一辆客户面包车，克鲁团队的每个成员都想要一辆 99，因为那是冰淇淋车体验。
“Where else am I going to get this?” they told Ed Whitby.
“我还能去哪里得到这个？”他们告诉埃德·惠特比。
While it may be more common now to see an ice cream truck at an event or on TikTok, we still crave those summer days when jaunty chimes call us out to the street.
虽然现在在活动或 TikTok 上看到冰淇淋车可能更常见，但我们仍然渴望那些夏日的日子，欢快的钟声召唤我们到街上去。
The odds can feel stacked against the old-school icey men, with legislation that limits their movement, environmental and nutritional campaigners who demand more and more restrictions, rising pitch rents, the price of vans, the difference, even, in the way children play outside.
老派冰人的处境可能会很艰难，立法限制了他们的行动，环境和营养活动人士要求越来越多的限制，场地租金不断上涨，货车价格上涨，甚至孩子们在户外玩耍的方式也有所不同。
But they’re still there, still clinging on.
但他们仍然在那里，仍然坚持着。
Why?
为什么？
“It’s not something anyone can do,” Ian Smith tells me, echoing John Harkins’s words.
“这不是任何人都能做到的事情，”伊恩·史密斯告诉我，呼应了约翰·哈金斯的话。
Smith has enjoyed nearly 45 years in the industry; a few months ago, he was named Champion of Champions mobile seller at the Ice Cream Alliance’s awards, making him the best ice cream van man in the UK of the last 15 years.
Smith 在该行业拥有近 45 年的经验；几个月前，他在冰淇淋联盟颁奖典礼上被评为移动卖家中的冠军，这使他成为过去 15 年来英国最好的冰淇淋搬运工。
Smith runs eight trucks: four vintage and four new Whitby Morrison rigs.
史密斯经营八辆卡车：四辆老式卡车和四辆新惠特比莫里森卡车。
Three of the vintage trucks are named after his granddaughters, Rosie, Violet, and Daisy.
其中三辆老式卡车以他的孙女罗西 (Rosie)、维奥莱特 (Violet) 和黛西 (Daisy) 的名字命名。
In fact, Smith’s whole family all sell ice cream: “all my uncles, aunties, cousins, nephews, everyone used to work on the vans growing up.” Smith’s father, who has been driving his ice cream truck since 1962, officially retired some time ago, but he couldn’t keep away; he still goes out in the truck, selling ice cream several days a week.
事实上，史密斯的全家都卖冰淇淋：“我所有的叔叔、阿姨、表兄弟姐妹、侄子，每个人都曾经在货车上工作长大。”史密斯的父亲自 1962 年起就一直开着冰淇淋车，前段时间正式退休了，但他却无法逃避；他仍然开着卡车出去，每周有几天卖冰淇淋。
He’s 76 years old.
他今年 76 岁了。
For all its long hours and detractors, once you’ve had a glimpse of the ice cream life, it’s hard to go back.
尽管工作时间很长，也有不少批评者，但一旦你瞥见了冰淇淋的生活，就很难再回头了。
His daughters now work on the trucks as well, and even his granddaughter has started to help out.
他的女儿们现在也在卡车上工作，甚至他的孙女也开始帮忙。
This family element feels like a through-line in the industry: Whether it’s sellers like Harkins and Smith, or the manufacturers like the Conway cousins and Whitby brothers.
这种家庭元素感觉就像是行业的一条贯穿线：无论是像哈金斯和史密斯这样的卖家，还是像康威表兄弟和惠特比兄弟这样的制造商。
Ice cream dynasties are commonplace.
冰淇淋王朝很常见。
Perhaps it’s just Stockholm syndrome, but it doesn’t feel that way.
也许这只是斯德哥尔摩综合症，但感觉并非如此。
Pride shines out of everyone I speak to.
与我交谈的每个人都洋溢着自豪感。
Smith considers the appeal of the ice cream truck life a simple one.
史密斯认为冰淇淋车生活的吸引力很简单。
“Everybody who comes to an ice cream van walks away with a smile,” he says.
“每个来到冰淇淋车前的人都会微笑着离开，”他说。
“You’re giving the customer something that makes them happy.
“你为顾客提供了让他们高兴的东西。
There’s not many jobs you can do where you get that.”
你能做的工作并不多。”
John Harkins feels the same: “Ice cream is a happy product,” he says simply.
约翰·哈金斯 (John Harkins) 也有同样的感觉：“冰淇淋是一种快乐的产品，”他简单地说。
Adele Ashmore, owner of Dotty, has a similar answer, “I love being part of people’s happiest days—the smiles, the excitement, the nostalgia .
Dotty 的老板阿黛尔·阿什莫尔 (Adele Ashmore) 也有类似的答案，“我喜欢成为人们最快乐的日子的一部分——微笑、兴奋、怀旧……。
.
。
.
。
it never gets old.” The ability to bring pleasure to people is more enduring than the vicissitudes the industry has faced.
它永远不会变老。”给人们带来快乐的能力比行业所面临的沧桑更持久。
As I meet these people who have devoted their lives to ice cream in different ways, I can’t resist asking the same question: Do you still enjoy ice cream?
当我遇到这些以不同方式奉献一生的人时，我忍不住问同样的问题：你还喜欢冰淇淋吗？
The answer is unanimously affirmative: They all profess an enduring love of the stuff.
答案是一致肯定的：他们都表示对这些东西有着持久的热爱。
They all have an ice cream once a week, they tell me, and could never get bored of it.
他们告诉我，他们每周都会吃一次冰淇淋，并且永远不会厌倦。
But Ian Smith goes further.
但伊恩·史密斯走得更远。
When I ask him if he still enjoys an ice cream, he replies: “Of course I do, I have at least three or four a day.
当我问他是否还喜欢吃冰淇淋时，他回答说：“当然喜欢，每天至少吃三四个。
Just a plain cone with soft serve, nothing on it.
只是一个普通的甜筒，里面有软冰淇淋，上面什么也没有。
No flake, no sauce, no bits.
没有薄片，没有酱汁，没有碎片。
Neat.
整洁。
Just enjoy the ice cream, that’s my opinion.
享受冰淇淋吧，这就是我的意见。
Just enjoy the ice cream.”
就好好享受冰淇淋吧。”
Olivia Potts is a food writer and chef.
奥利维亚·波茨 (Olivia Potts) 是一位美食作家和厨师。
After a career as a criminal barrister, she retrained in patisserie at Le Cordon Bleu.
在担任刑事律师后，她在蓝带国际学院接受了糕点师的再培训。
Her latest cookbook, Butter: A Celebration, is published by Headline.
她最新的烹饪书《黄油：一场庆典》由 Headline 出版。
Her first book, A Half Baked Idea: How grief, love, and cake took me from the courtroom to Le Cordon Bleu won the Fortnum & Mason Debut Food Book Award and is published by Fig Tree, Penguin.
她的第一本书《半生不熟的想法：悲伤、爱和蛋糕如何把我从法庭带到蓝带》荣获 Fortnum & Mason 首张美食图书奖，由 Fig Tree、Penguin 出版。
She was this year’s winner of the Guild of Food Writers’ Award for cookery writing.
她是今年食品作家协会烹饪写作奖的获得者。
Editor: Carolyn WellsFact-checker: Julie Schwietert CollazoCopyeditor: Krista Stevens
编辑：卡罗琳·威尔斯事实核查：朱莉·施维特特·科拉佐文案编辑：克里斯塔·史蒂文斯