Best of 2023: All of Our Number Five Story Picks

Our Picks, Your Inbox

我们的精选，您的收件箱

Longreads seeks out the best stories on the web, so don’t miss a single one—get all our editors’ recommendations, delivered to you fresh daily.

Longreads 寻找网络上最好的故事，所以不要错过任何一篇 - 获取我们所有编辑的推荐，每天为您提供新鲜的内容。

All through December, we’ve been featuring Longreads’ Best of 2023.

整个 12 月，我们一直在精选 Longreads 的 2023 年最佳作品。

Today, we close out this year’s Best of Longreads package with a list of every story that was chosen as No. 5 in our weekly Top 5 email.

今天，我们结束了今年的最佳长读作品包，其中列出了每周前 5 名电子邮件中被选为第 5 名的每个故事。

Number five stories can be humorous and lighthearted or even poignant and unexpected—an antidote to the week that was.

第五个故事可以是幽默、轻松的，甚至可以是辛酸和出人意料的——这是过去一周的解药。

The entire Best of Longreads package is a labor of love that’s our gift to you, the reader.

整个长读精选包都是我们的爱的结晶，这是我们送给读者的礼物。

Enjoy this trove of great reads when you need distraction from those holiday get-togethers.

当您需要从假期聚会中分散注意力时，请享受这本精彩的读物。

## — January —

## — 一月 —

## Fighting the Tree

## 与树战斗

Davon Loeb | The Sun | January 2, 2023 | 2,678 words

达文·勒布 |太阳 | 2023 年 1 月 2 日 | 2,678 字

Over the past few weeks, I’ve been mired in home repairs that rank somewhere south of Serious DIY but somewhere north of I Can Do This Without YouTube.

在过去的几周里，我一直陷入了家庭维修的泥潭，这些维修工作排在《Serious DIY》的南边，但又排在《I Can Do This Without YouTube》的北边。

Every time I cut a machine screw so that a new switchplate would fit, or replaced a toilet’s fill valve, I thought about my dad.

每次我切割一个机器螺丝以便安装新的开关板，或者更换马桶的进水阀时，我都会想起我的父亲。

Specifically, I thought about being 8 or 9 years old and standing with my dad while he embarked on those same types of repairs — me holding a handful of screws or tools, just trying to be helpful while he worked on whatever it was he was working on.

具体来说，我想到了在八九岁的时候，当我父亲开始进行同样类型的维修时，我和他站在一起——我拿着一把螺丝或工具，只是想在他做他正在做的事情时提供帮助。

I lost him a decade ago this year, but those memories have retained the same poignancy they had when my grief was fresh, and they came roaring back all over again when I read Davon Loeb’s essay in the latest issue of The Sun.

十年前的今年，我失去了他，但那些记忆仍然像我刚经历悲伤时一样令人心酸，当我读到达文·勒布在最新一期《太阳报》上的文章时，它们又卷土重来。

Fathers aren’t easy, and neither are sons; when the two are constitutionally different, it only compounds the difficulty.

父亲不易，儿子亦不易；当两者本质上不同时，只会加剧困难。

“Give Dad a pencil, a piece of paper, and a ruler, and he could design a house,” Loeb writes.

“给爸爸一支铅笔、一张纸和一把尺子，他就可以设计一座房子，”勒布写道。

“Give me a pencil, a piece of paper, and a ruler, and I could draw our family.” This misalignment sets the stage for an episode that embodies nearly every competing facet of the father-son dynamic: pride and shame, validation and disappointment, love and fear.

“给我一支铅笔、一张纸和一把尺子，我就能画出我们的家人。”这种错位为这一集奠定了基础，该集体现了父子关系中几乎所有相互竞争的方面：骄傲与羞耻、认可与失望、爱与恐惧。

Yet, Loeb doesn’t write this to twang some hidden heartstring in the reader.

然而，勒布写这篇文章并不是为了触动读者隐藏的心弦。

Instead, he sinks back into that moment from his own childhood in order to square the circle of fraught kinship: No matter how much we may clash, it’s the moments of peace that stay with us.

相反，他回到了自己童年时的那个时刻，以解决令人担忧的亲属关系：无论我们发生多少冲突，和平的时刻都会伴随着我们。

—PR

——公关

## Getting Lost in the World’s Largest Stack of Menus

## 迷失在世界上最大的菜单堆中

Adam Reiner | Taste | January 1, 2023 | 2,243 words

亚当·雷纳 |味道| 2023 年 1 月 1 日 | 2,243 字

“Menus provide a window into history, a vital connection to our foodways,” writes Adam Reiner in this fun read about restaurant menus.

“菜单提供了一扇了解历史的窗口，与我们的饮食方式有着重要的联系，”亚当·雷纳在这本关于餐厅菜单的有趣读物中写道。

Frank E.

弗兰克·E。

Buttolph, a volunteer archivist at the New York Public Library, amassed 25,000 menus from around the world before she died in 1924.

布托夫 (Buttolph) 是纽约公共图书馆的一名志愿档案管理员，在 1924 年去世之前收集了来自世界各地的 25,000 份菜单。

Today, the NYPL’s Buttolph Collection numbers 40,000, dating back to 1843, with most menus from between 1890 and 1910.

如今，纽约公共图书馆的 Buttolph 藏品已达 40,000 份，其历史可追溯至 1843 年，其中大部分菜单是 1890 年至 1910 年间的。

What was served in the first Japanese and French restaurants in New York?

纽约第一家日本餐厅和法国餐厅供应什么？

What dishes were considered expensive or high-end or adventurous in the early 1900s?

在 1900 年代初期，哪些菜肴被认为是昂贵的、高端的或富有冒险精神的？

The collection’s menus, writes Reiner, are sources of inspiration for today’s chefs, researchers, and the simply (epi)curious.

赖纳写道，该系列的菜单是当今厨师、研究人员和纯粹好奇者的灵感来源。

The scanned ones featured in his story are lovely to look at, and make you want to visit the NYPL yourself so you can pore over these pages.

他的故事中的扫描版看起来很漂亮，让你想亲自参观纽约公共图书馆，以便仔细阅读这些页面。

In our era of restaurant apps and QR codes, Reiner has also opened my eyes to the value of a physical, printed menu; I’ve always enjoyed reading the descriptions of dishes and cocktails, but after reading his piece, I realize how much a menu can also illuminate the historical and cultural context of the food they describe.

在餐厅应用程序和二维码盛行的时代，赖纳也让我认识到了实体印刷菜单的价值；我一直喜欢阅读菜肴和鸡尾酒的描述，但读完他的文章后，我意识到菜单也可以阐明他们所描述的食物的历史和文化背景。

—CLR

—CLR

## Jelly Is Ready for Its Redemption Arc

## Jelly 已准备好迎接它的救赎篇

Bettina Makalintal | Eater | January 10, 2023 | 1,818 words

贝蒂娜·马卡林塔尔 |食者| 2023 年 1 月 10 日 | 1,818 字

“I predict that we are on the threshold of a new aspic-forward aesthetic,” is something I would not have expected to read in my lifetime.

“我预测我们正处于一种新的肉冻美学的门槛上”，这是我在有生之年不会读到的东西。

I admit it.

我承认。

I’m a dessert fusspot.

我是个甜点大惊小怪的人。

I have strong opinions: I love sticky toffee pudding and chocolate cake.

我有强烈的意见：我喜欢粘稠的太妃糖布丁和巧克力蛋糕。

The only acceptable pies are apple and pumpkin.

唯一可接受的馅饼是苹果和南瓜。

Custard is bland.

蛋奶冻很淡。

Tapioca is revolting.

木薯粉令人反感。

But Jell-O tops the many desserts on my “hard no” list.

但果冻在我的“禁忌”清单上的众多甜点中名列前茅。

Way too squirmy!

太扭捏了！

It’s always important to revisit your beliefs from time to time.

时不时地重新审视你的信念总是很重要的。

(I guess.) Could Jell-O become a possibility for me?

（我猜。）果冻能成为我的可能性吗？

(Highly unlikely!) “I think that Jell-O, in a way, can be terrifying and delicious at the same time.

（极不可能！）“我认为果冻在某种程度上可以同时令人恐惧和美味。

There’s a little discussion in the book about the sublime: things that are really scary, but they kind of attract you anyway.

书中有一些关于崇高的讨论：那些确实很可怕的东西，但无论如何它们都会吸引你。

It’s things that are in the liminal space between what’s acceptable and what’s really bizarre, and people find that fun from an aesthetic perspective.” —KS

这些事物处于可接受的事物和真正奇怪的事物之间的界限空间，人们从美学的角度发现它很有趣。” —KS

## For Humpbacks, Bubbles Can Be Tools

## 对于座头鲸来说，气泡可以成为工具

Doug Perrine | Hakai Magazine | December 20, 2022 | 1,500 words

道格·佩里恩 |哈凯杂志 | 2022 年 12 月 20 日 | 1,500 字

It’s well known that many animals use tools to aid feeding and other tasks of life.

众所周知，许多动物使用工具来帮助进食和完成其他生活任务。

Think: otters floating on their backs, cracking shells with rocks.

想一想：水獭仰面漂浮，用岩石敲击贝壳。

You’d think it would be hard for whales to use tools, but as Doug Perrine reports at Hakai Magazine, humpbacks use what’s available to them — air and water — to form bubbles for a variety of activities.

你可能会认为鲸鱼很难使用工具，但正如 Doug Perrine 在 Hakai 杂志上报道的那样，座头鲸利用它们可以利用的东西——空气和水——形成气泡来进行各种活动。

“I’m tempted to describe the air in a humpback’s lungs as a Swiss army knife because I’ve seen whales do so many different things with it,” he wrote.

“我很想把座头鲸肺部的空气描述为一把瑞士军刀，因为我见过鲸鱼用它做了很多不同的事情，”他写道。

“It is not actually a tool collection though, but a storehouse of raw construction material with which the whale can fashion a variety of tools.

“不过，它实际上并不是一个工具收藏，而是一个原始建筑材料的仓库，鲸鱼可以用它来制作各种工具。

Lacking free fingers and opposable thumbs, whales are unable to create and use tools in the same way as humans, but reveal their intelligence through the manner in which they utilize other body parts for tool production and use.” —KS

由于缺乏自由的手指和可对生的拇指，鲸鱼无法像人类一样创造和使用工具，而是通过利用其他身体部位生产和使用工具的方式来展现它们的智慧。” —KS

## — February —

## — 二月 —

## The Dirt on Pig-Pen

## 猪圈上的污垢

Elif Batuman | Astra Magazine | October 27, 2022 | 2,245 words

埃利夫·巴图曼 |阿斯特拉杂志| 2022 年 10 月 27 日 | 2,245 字

I’m still sad that Astra Magazine is no more.

我仍然对《阿斯特拉》杂志不再存在感到难过。

Maybe it’s because I’m seeing so much fervor for bot-written text lately (oh hi, ChatGPT) and I worry about its mind-boggling potential to pollute the internet with pap left unchecked, not to mention the repercussions of inevitable misuse.

也许是因为我最近看到了对机器人编写的文本如此热衷（哦嗨，ChatGPT），并且我担心它在不加控制的情况下污染互联网的令人难以置信的潜力，更不用说不可避免的滥用的后果。

Thankfully Astra remains online for now, which allows you to read Elif Batuman’s terrific deep dive on the Peanuts character Pig-Pen.

值得庆幸的是，Astra 目前仍保持在线状态，您可以阅读 Elif Batuman 对《花生漫画》角色 Pig-Pen 的精彩深入探讨。

Through Pig-Pen, Batuman explores what Charles Schultz had to say about American values in the 1950s and beyond, most notably, commentary on the darker side of society and relationships.

通过《猪圈》，巴图曼探讨了查尔斯·舒尔茨 (Charles Schultz) 对 20 世纪 50 年代及以后的美国价值观的看法，尤其是对社会和人际关系阴暗面的评论。

But, in wearing his messiness with pride, is Pig-Pen perhaps the most authentic Peanut of all?

但是，骄傲地穿着自己凌乱的衣服，猪圈也许是最正宗的花生吗？

“Everyone, it turns out, has a Dirty version of themselves: mussed, unkempt, scribbled over.

“事实证明，每个人都有一个肮脏的自己：凌乱、蓬头垢面、潦草的。

This feels true.” —KS

这感觉是真的。” —KS

## When Food is the Only Narrative We Consume

## 当食物是我们消费的唯一叙事时

Angie Kang | Catapult | February 8, 2023 | 2,146 words

安吉·康|弹射器| 2023 年 2 月 8 日 | 2,146 字

Food is an essential part of culture, and an accessible way into understanding it.

食物是文化的重要组成部分，也是理解文化的一种便捷方式。

(Exhibits A and B: See the Pixar animated short film Bao, or nearly any account of an Asian American child’s embarrassing “lunchbox moment” at school.) But Angie Kang urges storytellers to create more varied and nuanced stories about Chinese culture and the wider Asian American experience — like Fresh Off the Boat and Everything Everywhere All At Once — that reach beyond food.

（证据 A 和 B：请观看皮克斯动画短片《包》，或者几乎任何有关亚裔美国孩子在学校尴尬的“午餐盒时刻”的报道。）但安吉·康（Angie Kang）敦促讲故事的人创作更多样、更细致的故事，讲述中国文化和更广泛的亚裔美国人的经历——比如《初来乍到》和《一切都在一次》——这些故事的范围不限于食物。

“We don’t stop living in between meals,” she writes.

“我们不会停止在两餐之间生活，”她写道。

Kang’s resonant words and fantastic artwork combine in a delightful illustrated essay about narrative and representation.

康的共鸣的话语和精彩的艺术作品结合在一篇关于叙事和表现的令人愉快的图文并茂的文章中。

“I’m just hungry for something new,” she writes.

“我只是渴望新的东西，”她写道。

I am as well, and with this fresh, inspired piece, she delivers.

我也是如此，她用这件新鲜的、充满灵感的作品来表达。

—CLR

—CLR

## Children of the Ice Age

## 冰河世纪的孩子们

April Nowell | Aeon | February 13, 2023 | 4,400 words

四月·诺埃尔 |永旺 | 2023 年 2 月 13 日 | 4,400 字

April Nowell opens this piece with a delightful story about a Palaeolithic family taking their kids and dogs to a cave to do some mud painting, which feels like the modern-day equivalent of exhausted parents taking their offspring to McDonald’s and handing them a coloring book.

阿普丽尔·诺威尔以一个令人愉快的故事开始了这篇文章，讲述了一个旧石器时代的家庭带着他们的孩子和狗到一个洞穴里做泥画，这感觉就像现代疲惫的父母带着他们的孩子去麦当劳，递给他们一本涂色书。

I was instantly entranced.

我立刻就着迷了。

Such stories are rare, partly because evidence of children (with their small, fragile bones) is tricky for archaeologists to locate, but also because of assumptions that children were insignificant to the narrative.

此类故事很少见，部分原因是考古学家很难找到儿童（骨骼小而脆弱）的证据，但也因为人们认为儿童对叙述无关紧要。

Nowell explains how, with the help of new archaeological approaches, this is changing, and the children of the Ice Age are getting a voice.

诺埃尔解释了如何在新的考古方法的帮助下，这种情况正在发生变化，冰河时代的孩子们正在发出自己的声音。

I am ready to listen, so bring on these tales of family excursions and novices struggling to learn the craft of tool sculpting (as Nowell explains, “each unskilled hit would leave material traces of their futile and increasingly frustrated attempts at flake removal”).

我已经准备好听了，所以请讲一下这些关于家庭旅行和新手努力学习工具雕刻工艺的故事（正如诺埃尔解释的那样，“每次不熟练的打击都会留下他们徒劳且越来越沮丧的去除薄片尝试的物质痕迹”）。

A Palaeolithic archaeologist and professor of anthropology, Nowell is an expert in this topic, but her vivid writing and human-based approach makes her fascinating field accessible to all.

诺埃尔是一位旧石器时代考古学家和人类学教授，是该主题的专家，但她生动的写作和以人为本的方法使所有人都能接触到她迷人的领域。

—CW

—CW

## The Battle for the Soul of Buy Nothing

## 不买东西的灵魂之战

Vauhini Vara | WIRED | February 23, 2023 | 7,267 words

沃希尼·瓦拉 |有线| 2023 年 2 月 23 日 | 7,267 字

It’s a worthy concept: hyper-local Facebook community groups connecting those in need of gently used items with their owners, a practice that offers environmental benefits in reducing waste with reuse, as well as a chance to thumb your nose at capitalism.

这是一个有价值的概念：超本地化的 Facebook 社区团体将那些需要温和使用物品的人与其所有者联系起来，这种做法可以通过重复使用来减少浪费，从而带来环境效益，同时也提供了一个对资本主义嗤之以鼻的机会。

But what happened to the Buy Nothing movement founded by Liesl Clark and Rebecca Rockefeller, which by 2022 had expanded to 6 million members in 60 countries?

但是，由 Liesl Clark 和 Rebecca Rockefeller 创立的“Buy Nothing”运动后来怎么样了？到 2022 年，该运动已在 60 个国家扩大到 600 万会员？

Vauhini Vara discovers that to be able to propagate your values, sometimes you need to accept the compromises of free community access at scale or risk the wrath of the community you created.

Vauhini Vara 发现，为了传播您的价值观，有时您需要接受大规模免费社区访问的妥协，否则可能会激怒您创建的社区。

“The truth was that turning Buy Nothing into a business had come with far more expenses than revenues,” Vara writes.

“事实是，将“不买任何东西”转变为一项业务所带来的费用远远超过收入，”瓦拉写道。

“If Facebook profited from Buy Nothing members’ activities, it also covered many of their costs.

“如果 Facebook 从“不买东西”会员的活动中获利，它也承担了他们的许多成本。

With the launch of the app, the resources that came for free with Facebook — software development, computing power, visibility — were suddenly Clark and Rockefeller’s responsibility.” —KS

随着应用程序的推出，Facebook 提供的免费资源——软件开发、计算能力、可见性——突然变成了克拉克和洛克菲勒的责任。” —KS

## — March —

## — 三月 —

## Can AI Perfect the IPA?

## AI 能否完善 IPA？

Tony Rehagen | Experience Magazine | February 15, 2023 | 1,267 words

托尼·雷哈根 |体验杂志| 2023 年 2 月 15 日 | 1,267 字

Is AI fatigue a thing?

人工智能疲劳是一个问题吗？

Because I’ve felt it for some time.

因为我已经感觉到这一点有一段时间了。

Yes, there are noteworthy AI stories worth reading right now, like Ted Chiang on blurry JPEGs or the piece on drumming that Peter had recommended.

是的，现在有一些值得注意的人工智能故事值得一读，比如 Ted Jiang 关于模糊 JPEG 的文章或 Peter 推荐的关于打鼓的文章。

But there are only so many stories about ChatGPT and artificial intelligence that I can absorb, so I’ve started to tune out.

但关于 ChatGPT 和人工智能的故事我能吸收的就这么多，所以我开始不理会了。

But when I came upon this story’s headline earlier this week, I couldn’t help but laugh — and decided to dive in and just surrender to it all: A data-driven IPA brewed in Australia, fine-tuned using consumer feedback collected through QR codes on cans.

但当我本周早些时候看到这个故事的标题时，我忍不住笑了，并决定深入研究并屈服于这一切：一种在澳大利亚酿造的数据驱动的 IPA，根据通过罐头上的二维码收集的消费者反馈进行微调。

Genetically modified hops in the drought-plagued U.S. Pacific Northwest.

遭受干旱困扰的美国太平洋西北地区的转基因啤酒花。

An AI company ridiculously (perfectly?) called Deep Liquid.

一家人工智能公司被可笑地（完美地？）称为 Deep Liquid。

In this ultimately fun and timely read, Tony Rehagen reports on the trend of craft breweries harnessing technology, data, and research to refine their recipes.

在这本极其有趣且及时的读物中，托尼·雷哈根报告了精酿啤酒厂利用技术、数据和研究来改进其配方的趋势。

Let’s raise a glass to hops and bots.

让我们为啤酒花和机器人干杯。

—CLR

—CLR

## An Icelandic Town Goes All Out to Save Baby Puffins

## 冰岛小镇全力以赴拯救海雀宝宝

Cheryl Katz | Smithsonian | February 14, 2023 | 3,125 words

谢丽尔·卡茨|史密森尼 | 2023 年 2 月 14 日 | 3,125 字

Every year Bloomberg Businessweek publishes what it calls the Jealousy List, featuring articles that authors wish they’d written or that editors wish they’d assigned.

每年，《彭博商业周刊》都会发布所谓的“嫉妒清单”，其中收录了作者希望自己写的文章或编辑希望他们分配的文章。

If I were to have my own jealousy list for 2023, this piece by Cheryl Katz would be on it.

如果我有自己的 2023 年嫉妒清单，谢丽尔·卡茨 (Cheryl Katz) 的这篇作品就会出现在上面。

I love it so much.

我非常喜欢它。

Seriously, drop what you’re doing and read it.

说真的，放下你正在做的事情并阅读它。

Katz’s story is about a village in Iceland where, every year, residents young and old work together to save baby puffins, also known as “pufflings.” The wee birds that look like they’re wearing tuxedos often get lost leaving their burrows and struggle to fly out to sea as they’re supposed to.

卡茨的故事讲述的是冰岛的一个村庄，每年，村里的老老少少都会齐心协力拯救小海雀（也称为“海雀”）。这些看起来像穿着燕尾服的小鸟经常在离开洞穴时迷路，并努力像它们应该的那样飞向大海。

Enter the Puffling Patrol, which cajoles the birds into boxes and carries them to a cliff where they can catch the wind they need to migrate.” Enter the Puffling Patrol, which cajoles the birds into boxes and carry them to a cliff where they can catch the wind they need to migrate.

加入海雀巡逻队，他们将小鸟哄骗到盒子里，然后将它们带到悬崖上，在那里它们可以抓住迁徙所需的风。”帕夫林巡逻队登场，将小鸟哄骗到盒子里，然后将它们带到悬崖上，在那里它们可以捕捉迁徙所需的风。

As climate change does its worst to the earth, ushering pufflings into the sky has never been more important.

随着气候变化对地球造成最严重的影响，将海雀飞上天空变得前所未有的重要。

I’m jealous I didn’t get to write this story.

我很嫉妒我没能写这个故事。

Or maybe I’m just mad I’m not in the Puffling Patrol.

或者也许我只是因为自己没有加入海鹦巡逻队而生气。

They get to do good for the world by communing with adorable baby birds.

他们通过与可爱的小鸟交流来为世界做出贡献。

How often is something so essential also so joyful?

有多少次如此重要的事情又如此令人快乐？

BRB, Googling flights to Iceland.

BRB，谷歌搜索飞往冰岛的航班。

—SD

—SD

## ‘It Changed the World’: 50 Years On, the Story of Pong’s Bay Area Origins

## “它改变了世界”：50 年后，Pong 湾区起源的故事

Charles Russo | SFGATE | March 9, 2023 | 2,809 words

查尔斯·罗素 | SFGATE | 2023 年 3 月 9 日 | 2,809 字

Charles Russo tracks the beginnings of the modern video game industry, which has its roots in a “scrappy Silicon Valley startup” now known as Atari.

查尔斯·罗素（Charles Russo）追踪了现代视频游戏行业的起源，该行业的根源在于一家“斗志旺盛的硅谷初创公司”，现在被称为雅达利（Atari）。

Its founders, Nolan Bushnell and Ted Dabney, had previously created the world’s first coin-operated video game, a futuristic yellow machine called Computer Space.

其创始人诺兰·布什内尔 (Nolan Bushnell) 和特德·达布尼 (Ted Dabney) 此前曾创造过世界上第一个投币式视频游戏，一种名为“计算机空间”的未来派黄色机器。

Under Atari, they developed Pong, a simple yet engrossing arcade game that became an instant hit with the American public when it was released in March 1973 — and is now a beloved classic.

在 Atari 的领导下，他们开发了 Pong，这是一款简单但引人入胜的街机游戏，于 1973 年 3 月发布后立即受到美国公众的欢迎，现在已成为深受喜爱的经典游戏。

This is a delightful dive into the video game industry’s “big-bang moment,” accompanied by fun images from the ’70s.

这是对视频游戏行业“大爆炸时刻”的一次令人愉快的深入探讨，并附有 70 年代的有趣图像。

My favorite is a photograph of a massive retro Atari arcade game at the Powell Street BART station in downtown San Francisco, surrounded by people with bell-bottoms.

我最喜欢的是旧金山市中心鲍威尔街 BART 车站的一张大型复古雅达利街机游戏的照片，周围都是穿着喇叭裤的人。

—CLR

—CLR

## I Can Feel God’s Presence in This Portable Toilet

## 在这个移动厕所里我能感受到上帝的存在

Harrison Scott Key | The Bitter Southerner | March 14, 2023 | 5,200 words

哈里森·斯科特·基 |苦涩的南方人 | 2023 年 3 月 14 日 | 5,200 字

Last Friday night, I had two pints of Guinness and went home, content with a St. Patrick’s Day well celebrated.

上周五晚上，我喝了两品脱吉尼斯黑啤酒就回家了，对庆祝圣帕特里克节感到满意。

Apparently, I know nothing about how to observe the feast.

显然，我对如何守节一无所知。

Harrison Scott Key enlightened me in this delightful essay about the drunken debauchery that is the holiday’s annual parade in Savannah, Georgia.

哈里森·斯科特·基 (Harrison Scott Key) 在这篇关于佐治亚州萨凡纳节日一年一度的醉酒狂欢游行的令人愉快的文章中启发了我。

I loved his raucous account of trying to claim a spot for the parade: Akin to the Sacking of Constantinople, “insults and elbows and fits [are] thrown” until everyone settles into their position, dons a green feather boa, and makes merry.

我喜欢他在试图争夺游行席位时的喧闹描述：类似于君士坦丁堡的劫掠，“侮辱、肘击和愤怒”，直到每个人都就座，戴上绿色羽毛围巾，并尽情欢乐。

The prose is so vivid you can almost hear the noise, touch the sweaty crowds, and taste the booze.

散文是如此生动，你几乎可以听到喧闹声，触摸到汗流浃背的人群，品尝到酒的味道。

I could also feel the camaraderie — over the years of attending the parade, Scott Key finds lasting friendships.

我也能感受到友情——在参加游行的这些年里，斯科特·基找到了持久的友谊。

A transplant to Savannah, and initially lonely and unable to find his place in a new community, this annual tradition helps Scott Key to discover his people.

斯科特·基移居到萨凡纳，最初感到孤独，无法在新社区中找到自己的位置，这一一年一度的传统帮助斯科特·基发现了他的人民。

After all, as he writes, “it’s easier to love people you’ve watched vomit into the hellmouth of a portable toilet at two in the morning.” —CW

毕竟，正如他所写，“爱那些你在凌晨两点看着呕吐到便携式厕所的地狱之口的人更容易。” —CW

## America Doesn’t Know Tofu

## 美国不知道豆腐

George Stiffman | Asterisk Magazine | March 9, 2023 | 3,278 words

乔治·斯蒂夫曼 |星号杂志 | 2023 年 3 月 9 日 | 3,278 字

Having been vegetarian for the last couple of years, I have eaten many a chickpea and a lentil, but not much in the way of tofu.

过去几年我一直是素食主义者，吃过很多鹰嘴豆和扁豆，但很少吃豆腐。

My efforts at cooking with it generally result in a sad, limp affair that has more than a passing resemblance to pond sludge.

我用它做饭的努力通常会导致悲伤、无力的结果，这与池塘污泥有着非常相似的地方。

But this delightful essay has single-handedly turned my tofu thoughts around, with luscious descriptions that pour off the page and make you want to reach in and grab a piece of the joyfully named “exploding-juice tofu.” And if exploding juice is not your thing, fear not, for there are more than 20 other types of tofu in the world, all with “different mouthfeels.” I was as surprised as you.

但这篇令人愉快的文章单枪匹马地扭转了我对豆腐的想法，其甘美的描述从书页上倾泻而下，让你想伸手去抓一块被快乐地命名为“爆炸汁豆腐”的东西。如果你不喜欢爆汁，也不必担心，因为世界上还有 20 多种其他类型的豆腐，每种豆腐都有“不同的口感”。我和你一样感到惊讶。

George Stiffman briefly touches on how the perceived value of vegetarian food differs between East and West — but for the most part, this essay is unashamedly just about how good this soybean curd can be, and is no poorer for it.

乔治·斯蒂夫曼（George Stiffman）简要介绍了东西方对素食的认知价值有何不同，但在大多数情况下，这篇文章毫不掩饰地讲述了这种豆腐的美味，而且并不因此而变得更差。

(So good that Stiffman waits for a tofu teacher outside a Chinese brothel at 4 a.m.

（太好了，以至于斯蒂夫曼凌晨 4 点在中国妓院外等待豆腐老师。

while “jotting down tofu goals.”) I have a new reverence for my pond sludge.

当“记下豆腐目标”时。）我对池塘污泥有了新的敬意。

—CW

—CW

## — April —

## — 四月 —

## How Cookie Jars Capture American Kitsch

## 饼干罐如何捕捉美国媚俗风格

Angela Burke | Eater | March 24, 2023 | 1,533 words

安吉拉·伯克 |食者| 2023 年 3 月 24 日 | 1,533 字

At an early age, I had mastered a critical skill in our house: lifting the lid on our humongous cookie jar to pilfer a treat, then replacing that lid in complete silence.

很小的时候，我就掌握了家里的一项关键技能：打开巨大的饼干罐的盖子来偷东西，然后在完全安静的情况下盖上盖子。

As a cookie burglar, I was an apple that hadn’t fallen far from its tree.

作为一个饼干窃贼，我是一个离树不远的苹果。

My Dad was always there first.

我爸爸总是先到。

And when my mom complained about dwindling stock, dad pointed the finger directly at me and my brother.

当我妈妈抱怨库存减少时，爸爸把矛头直指我和我弟弟。

(The nerve!) That cookie jar (a brown ceramic wooden stump with a creepy, grinning gray squirrel on top) sits on their kitchen counter to this day.

（神经！）那个饼干罐（一个棕色的陶瓷木桩，上面有一只令人毛骨悚然、咧着嘴笑的灰色松鼠）至今还放在他们的厨房柜台上。

At Eater, in this love letter to the kooky cookie jar, Angela Burke introduces us to artist and vintage ceramic cookie jar maker Hazy Mae.

在 Eater，在这封写给古怪饼干罐的情书中，安吉拉·伯克 (Angela Burke) 向我们介绍了艺术家和复古陶瓷饼干罐制造商 Hazy Mae。

Her custom jars, in homage to Dolly Parton, Andy Warhol, Elvis, and Madonna (among others), can run $800 or more.

她定制的罐子是为了向多莉·帕顿、安迪·沃霍尔、猫王和麦当娜（以及其他人）致敬，售价可达 800 美元或更多。

That may feel steep, but can you really put a price on a vessel that could eventually contain fond memories, too?

这可能感觉有点高，但你真的能为一艘最终也能承载美好回忆的船只定价吗？

—KS

—KS

## Dril Is Everyone.

## 钻头是每个人。

More Specifically, He’s a Guy Named Paul.

更具体地说，他是一个名叫保罗的人。

Nate Rogers | The Ringer | April 12, 2023 | 5,170 words

内特·罗杰斯 |铃声| 2023 年 4 月 12 日 | 5,170 字

Despite being on Twitter for almost 15 years — a number that’s shameful for multiple reasons — I’ve never actually followed the shitposter extraordinaire known as Dril.

尽管我在 Twitter 上呆了近 15 年——这个数字出于多种原因是可耻的——但我从未真正关注过这位名叫 Dril 的非凡垃圾贴子。

I didn’t need to.

我不需要。

His absurdism was retweeted into my feed nearly every day.

他的荒唐言论几乎每天都会被转发到我的动态中。

Sometimes I’d laugh, sometimes I’d shake my head, but over time two things became clear.

有时我会笑，有时我会摇头，但随着时间的推移，有两件事变得清晰起来。

The first was that whoever was behind the blurry Jack Nicholson photo had created a wholly unique persona.

首先，杰克·尼科尔森模糊照片背后的人创造了一个完全独特的角色。

The second was that this persona somehow distilled Twitter’s worst impulses into a single parodic voice: bombastic, utterly un-self-aware, and so in thrall to the Dunning-Kruger effect that you couldn’t help but marvel.

第二个是，这个角色以某种方式将推特最糟糕的冲动提炼成一个单一的戏仿声音：夸夸其谈，完全没有自我意识，因此受到邓宁-克鲁格效应的束缚，你情不自禁地惊叹不已。

Dril, in one anonymous form or another, has been written about before, but he’s never been truly profiled; that first falls to Nate Rogers, who managed both to score some face time with him and to use that as the foundation for a long, well-reported piece about the man and his legacy.

德里尔以前曾以某种匿名形式被写过，但从未被真正描述过。首先是内特·罗杰斯（Nate Rogers），他设法与他取得了一些会面时间，并以此为基础，撰写了一篇关于这个人和他的遗产的长篇、详细报道的文章。

Even if you’ve never heard of Dril (in which case I commend you, again for multiple reasons), Rogers’ piece functions as an incisive assessment of how we think about art and creativity, and perhaps even why so many of us have yet to fully divorce that godforsaken bird site.

即使你从未听说过 Dril（在这种情况下，我再次出于多种原因赞扬你），罗杰斯的作品对我们如何看待艺术和创造力进行了深刻的评估，甚至可能解释了为什么我们这么多人尚未完全脱离这个被上帝遗弃的鸟类遗址。

When a character as good as Dril exists, you don’t need the other 279.

当像 Dril 这样优秀的角色存在时，你就不需要另外 279 个了。

—PR

——公关

## During a Pandemic, Walk

## 在大流行期间，步行

David Jenkins | High Country News | April 17, 2023 | 1,343 words

大卫·詹金斯 |高地国家新闻| 2023 年 4 月 17 日 | 1,343 字

When I run or walk alone outdoors I almost always listen to music, a podcast, or an audiobook.

当我独自在户外跑步或行走时，我几乎总是听音乐、播客或有声读物。

In this thoughtful piece for High Country News, David Jenkins remarks upon passing a runner while on a 10-hour walk in western Colorado, the man’s ears “clogged with headphones.” The word clogged stopped me short.

在《High Country News》这篇深思熟虑的文章中，大卫·詹金斯 (David Jenkins) 在科罗拉多州西部 10 小时的步行中与一位跑步者擦身而过时，他评论道，该男子的耳朵“被耳机堵住了”。 “堵塞”这个词让我停住了。

How true that even in solitary pursuits we compromise the peace we seek by inviting others’ words into our heads.

即使在孤独的追求中，我们也会因为邀请别人的话语进入我们的头脑而损害我们所寻求的和平，这是多么真实的事情。

“I puzzled over the need to listen to something other than wind and raven, the scuttle of a lizard, the skittering of small rocks underfoot,” he writes.

他写道：“我对除了风声、乌鸦声、蜥蜴的急速声、脚下小石头的掠过声之外是否需要聆听其他声音感到困惑。”

Less is so much more, and while you’ll revel in soaking up every sight and sound the desert has to offer, the greatest beauty of Jenkins’ piece is that because he’s fully present during his walk, you can’t help but be, too.

少即是多，虽然你会陶醉于吸收沙漠所提供的每一个景象和声音，但詹金斯作品的最大魅力在于，因为他在行走过程中完全在场，你也会情不自禁地参与其中。

—KS

—KS

## Inside Superiority Burger: The Buzziest Restaurant in America

## 深入了解 Superiority Burger：美国最热闹的餐厅

Brett Martin | GQ | April 26, 2023 | 3,834 words

布雷特·马丁 |智群 | 2023 年 4 月 26 日 | 3,834 字

Most writing about food focuses on the output.

大多数有关食物的文章都关注产出。

Some of it focuses on the people.

其中一些关注于人。

A bit of it focuses on technique.

其中一部分侧重于技术。

But not enough of it teases out the synesthesia of a night in a restaurant: the adrenaline, the prep, the community, the taste.

但其中还不足以勾勒出餐厅之夜的联觉：肾上腺素、准备、社区、味道。

The vibe of eating, as much as I hate to use that word.

吃饭的氛围，尽管我讨厌用这个词。

Brett Martin’s piece shrugs off those limitations on its way to being the most visceral look inside a restaurant since The Bear.

布雷特·马丁 (Brett Martin) 的作品摆脱了这些限制，成为继《熊》(The Bear) 之后最真实的餐厅内部装饰。

Nominally a profile of punk-drummer-turned-chef Brooks Headley and his vegetarian burger joint, it manages to capture the twin high-wire acts of executing and eating inside New York City’s restaurant of the moment.

名义上是朋克鼓手出身的厨师布鲁克斯·海德利 (Brooks Headley) 和他的素食汉堡店的简介，它成功地捕捉了当下纽约市餐厅内执行和用餐的双重高走钢丝行为。

Martin veers from evocative tasting notes (“[s]omething about the feathery sheets of tofu skin, layered on a squishy hero roll with broccoli rabe and a spiced chickpea paste that evokes Vietnamese pate, flips the same feral switch in my chest as does eating, say, andouillette, the most offaly of French sausages”) to capturing Headley at full speed on a packed Thursday night (“[o]ften, he’ll bustle in one direction, only to pull up short as though he’s forgotten what he was doing, and then run off in another”) to some shrewd commentary on the punk ethos and food gentrification.

马丁从令人回味的品酒笔记（“关于羽毛状的豆腐皮片，分层在柔软的英雄卷上，配上西兰花拉贝和五香鹰嘴豆酱，让人想起越南肉酱，在我的胸中翻转着与吃法式香肠中最下等的安杜耶特香肠时相同的野性开关”），转而在拥挤的周四晚上全速捕捉黑德利（“经常，他会朝一个方向忙碌，然后突然停下来，好像他忘记了自己在做什么，然后跑向另一个方向”）对朋克精神和食品中产阶级化的一些精明评论。

It feels, in the very best way, like you’re a drone being piloted through Superiority Burger during a dinner rush.

以最好的方式，感觉就像你是一架无人机，在晚餐高峰期间被驾驶穿过Superiority Burger。

Whether it makes you hungry is beside the point; it’s a feast of its own.

是否让你感到饥饿并不重要；重要的是。这本身就是一场盛宴。

—PR

——公关

## — May —

## — 五月 —

## Hive Mind

## 蜂巢思维

Celia Bell | Texas Highways | May 2, 2023 | 2,847 words

西莉亚·贝尔 |德克萨斯州高速公路 | 2023 年 5 月 2 日 | 2,847 字

Celia Bell’s warm descriptions make bee society sound lovely, with her bees visiting “flowers or the quiet creek, or, on the hottest days, hang[ing] in clusters like elderberries on the outside of the hive, waiting for a breath of cool air.” The pleasure she finds in their world is not taken for granted.

西莉亚·贝尔（Celia Bell）温暖的描述让蜜蜂社会听起来很可爱，她的蜜蜂“拜访花朵或安静的小溪，或者在最热的日子里，像接骨木浆果一样成群地悬挂在蜂巢外面，等待呼吸凉爽的空气。”她在他们的世界中找到的快乐并不是理所当然的。

After entering beekeeping during the pandemic, Bell is conscious of how it grounds her and keeps her present.

在大流行期间进入养蜂业后，贝尔意识到这如何让她脚踏实地并保持现状。

A video game fan, she draws thoughtful comparisons to the rendering of the natural world in gaming.

作为一名视频游戏迷，她对游戏中自然世界的渲染进行了深思熟虑的比较。

While appreciating the artistry of game developers, she feels outside of her body in their virtual landscapes, whereas sweating in an apiary her body calls out its needs, forcing her to connect with her physical self.

在欣赏游戏开发者的艺术性的同时，她在虚拟景观中感受到了自己的身体之外，而在养蜂场出汗时，她的身体呼唤着它的需求，迫使她与自己的身体自我联系。

Although online life can creep in — a buzzing phone is never far away — the bees open up “the wonder and specificity of the world.” This reflective essay will make you consider which reality you choose to spend your time in.

尽管网络生活可能悄然而至——嗡嗡作响的电话永远不会远离——但蜜蜂却开启了“世界的奇妙和特殊性”。这篇反思性文章将让你考虑你选择将时间花在哪个现实中。

—CW

—CW

## How Two Friends Sparked L.A.’s Sushi Obsession — and Changed the Way America Eats

## 两个朋友如何激发了洛杉矶对寿司的痴迷，并改变了美国人的饮食方式

Daniel Miller | Los Angeles Times | May 3, 2023 | 3,855 words

丹尼尔·米勒 |洛杉矶时报 | 2023 年 5 月 3 日 | 3,855 字

In 1965, Noritoshi Kanai and Harry Wolff Jr. were on a trip to Japan, looking for an interesting food product to import to the U.S. Instead, one of their dinners in Tokyo led them to another idea: sushi.

1965 年，Noritoshi Kanai 和 Harry Wolff Jr. 去日本旅行，寻找一种有趣的食品进口到美国。相反，他们在东京的一次晚餐让他们产生了另一个想法：寿司。

Daniel Miller recounts how the two men brought the Japanese cuisine to Los Angeles, at a time when the city felt primed for something new.

丹尼尔·米勒 (Daniel Miller) 讲述了这两个人如何将日本料理带到洛杉矶，当时这座城市正准备迎接新事物。

Which restauranteurs and chefs were the first to add sushi to their menus?

哪些餐馆老板和厨师最先将寿司添加到他们的菜单中？

When were the sushi bar and the California roll invented?

寿司吧和加州卷是什么时候发明的？

Accompanied by lovely illustrations by Yuko Shimuzu, this is a fun piece of regional foodie history — one that ultimately explores whether food can truly bring different people and cultures together.

伴随着 Yuko Shimuzu 的可爱插图，这是一段有趣的地区美食历史——最终探索食物是否能够真正将不同的人和文化聚集在一起。

—CLR

—CLR

## The Dave Matthews Guide to Living and Dying

## 戴夫·马修斯生死指南

Alex Pappademas | GQ | May 18, 2023 | 5,777 words

亚历克斯·帕帕德马斯 |智群 | 2023 年 5 月 18 日 | 5,777 字

I’m not sure I ever had an opinion about Dave Matthews.

我不确定我对戴夫·马修斯有什么看法。

I knew how I felt about his music — which is probably best left for another time, though “no thanks” pretty much sums it up — but I also think I thought he was Jack Johnson.

我知道我对他的音乐的感受——这可能最好留到下次，尽管“不，谢谢”几乎概括了这一点——但我也认为我以为他是杰克·约翰逊。

(White guys with guitars, man; I don’t know what to tell you.) After reading Alex Pappademas’ stellar profile, though, I finally do have an opinion, and that opinion is that the world needs a few more people like Dave Matthews.

（拿着吉他的白人，伙计；我不知道该告诉你什么。）不过，在阅读了亚历克斯·帕帕德马斯的出色个人资料后，我终于有了一个观点，这个观点是世界需要更多像戴夫·马修斯这样的人。

Pappademas has always been able to walk the razor-wire tightrope of inserting just enough of himself to leaven a story without pushing it into This Famous Person Is Just an Excuse For My Thoughts territory, and that talent is on full display here.

帕帕德马斯总是能够走在铁丝网的钢丝上，插入足够多的自己来丰富一个故事，而不会将其推入《这位名人只是我思想的借口》的领域，而这种天赋在这里得到了充分的展示。

Even beyond the effortlessly entertaining writing, it’s a profile of the type we don’t see enough of these days: a multi-day/location/activity hang in which a rapport grows and a subject’s personality emerges.

即使除了轻松有趣的写作之外，它也是我们现在看不够的类型的简介：在多天/地点/活动中，融洽的关系得以增长，主题的个性得以显现。

There’s lots here about Matthews’ understanding of who he is and how the world sees him, of course, but just as much about the way he moves through the world and the joy with which he approaches life and its inevitable end.

当然，这里有很多关于马修斯对他是谁以及世界如何看待他的理解，但同样也有关于他在世界上行走的方式以及他对待生活及其不可避免的结局的喜悦。

Regardless of how you ever felt about DMB, you’ll leave this one feeling a little bit changed for the better.

无论您对 DMB 有何感受，您都会感觉 DMB 有所改善。

Which is probably exactly how Matthews would want it.

这可能正是马修斯想要的。

—PR

——公关

## The “Top Chef” Oral History: “How Is This Going Off the Rails on Day One?”

## “顶级厨师”口述历史：“第一天怎么就出轨了？”

Mikey O’Connell | The Hollywood Reporter | May 18, 2023 | 5,573 words

麦基·奥康奈尔 |好莱坞报道 | 2023 年 5 月 18 日 | 5,573 字

In our 14 years as a couple, there is only one TV show that my husband and I have watched together consistently, and it’s Top Chef.

在我们夫妻 14 年里，只有一部电视节目是我和丈夫经常一起看的，那就是《顶级大厨》。

(He leaves Outlander to me; I pass on Painting with John.) We’re not rabid fans like the people who, as this oral history of the series details, paid to go on a cruise with the hosts and several popular contestants and judges.

（他把《Outlander》留给了我；我把《Painting with John》留给了我。）我们不像那些像该系列口述历史所详述的那样付费与主持人、几位受欢迎的参赛者和评委一起巡游的狂热粉丝。

“What really stayed with me is a lady, incredibly inebriated, running down the hallway to me,” season 10 winner Kristen Kish recalls.

“真正让我印象深刻的是一位女士，她喝醉了，沿着走廊跑向我，”第十季冠军克里斯汀·基什回忆道。

“I assume she was going to hug me but ended up fully licking my right cheek.” However, we never miss an episode of the show, which offers a window into the diversity and difficulties of the culinary world.

“我以为她会拥抱我，但最终完全舔了我的右脸。”然而，我们不会错过节目的任何一集，它为我们了解烹饪世界的多样性和困难提供了一个窗口。

Top Chef prompted me to master the art of risotto — a work in progress — and I’ve never been so excited to tell my husband, well, pretty much anything as I was to announce that I’d seen Padma working out at our gym while she was filming the Washington, D.C., season.

《顶级厨师》促使我掌握了意大利调味饭的艺术——这是一项正在进行中的工作——我从来没有像现在这样兴奋地告诉我的丈夫，嗯，几乎任何事情，就像我宣布我看到帕德玛在拍摄华盛顿特区的季节时在我们的健身房锻炼一样。

This is all to say that I loved THR’s oral history, which is making the rounds online as the show’s 20th season wraps up.

这就是说我很喜欢《THR》的口述历史，随着该剧第 20 季的结束，这些口述历史正在网上流传。

The season, which features contestants plucked from Top Chef‘s various international productions, is a testament to the show’s cultural impact.

这一季的参赛者都是从《顶级厨师》的各种国际作品中挑选出来的，这证明了该节目的文化影响力。

In related news, thank goodness producers didn’t go with the alternate title Grillers in the Mist.

在相关新闻中，谢天谢地，制片人没有选择替代标题《迷雾中的烧烤者》。

—SD

—SD

## — June —

## — 六月 —

## The Strange Survival of Guinness World Records

## 吉尼斯世界纪录的奇异生存

Imogen West-Knights | The Guardian | May 25, 2023 | 5,775 words

伊莫金·韦斯特-骑士 | 伊莫金·韦斯特-骑士卫报| 2023 年 5 月 25 日 | 5,775 字

I grew up watching people break world records.

我是看着人们打破世界纪录长大的。

Not because I am from a family whose skillset includes spinning basketballs on toothbrushes or sticking spoons to their chest (actual records), but because I watched a show called Record Breakers.

不是因为我来自一个技能包括用牙刷旋转篮球或将勺子贴在胸前（实际记录）的家庭，而是因为我观看了一个名为“破纪录者”的节目。

It was all very wholesome: Enthusiastic presenters oversaw members of the public trying to earn a place in the book of Guinness World Records.

这一切都非常有益：热情的主持人监督公众努力在吉尼斯世界纪录中获得一席之地。

The upbeat theme song confidently declared that Dedication is all you need.

欢快的主题曲自信地宣告“奉献就是你所需要的”。

Perhaps it is.

也许是的。

In this piece, Imogen West-Knights writes that her failure to beat the record for the longest time standing on one leg blindfolded “was not because I was incapable of doing it.

在这篇文章中，伊莫金·韦斯特-奈茨写道，她未能打破蒙眼单腿站立最长时间纪录“并不是因为我没有能力做到这一点。

It was because I didn’t want it enough.” She meets plenty of people who do want it (and want it a lot), her delightful account peppered with humans who have caught the most marshmallows fired from a homemade catapult in one minute or jumped the most consecutive cars on a pogo stick.

那是因为我想要的还不够。”她遇到了很多确实想要它的人（而且非常想要它），她令人愉快的叙述中充满了人们在一分钟内抓住自制弹射器发射的最多棉花糖或用弹簧单高跷连续跳跃最多的汽车。

But in recent years, things at Guinness World Records have become a little less joyful and a little more corporate.

但近年来，吉尼斯世界纪录的事情变得少了一些快乐，多了一些企业化。

West-Knights explains how GWR Consultancy now helps brands to find a way to break a record—for a fee.

West-Knights 解释了 GWR Consultancy 现在如何帮助品牌找到打破记录的方法（收费）。

(Perhaps unsurprising in the TikTok age.) But even if record-breaking is not what it once was, it is lovely to know that diehard record-breakers are still out there on their pogo sticks “celebrating achievement in the abstract.” —CW

（在 TikTok 时代也许并不令人意外。）但即使破纪录已不再像以前那样，很高兴知道顽固的破纪录者仍然在他们的弹簧单高跷上“庆祝抽象的成就”。 —CW

## Cat-astrophe

## 猫灾难

Carrie Arnold | Noēma | June 6, 2023 | 3,186 words

嘉莉·阿诺德 |诺埃玛 | 2023 年 6 月 6 日 | 3,186 字

Let me preface this by saying I am both a cat person and a dog person.

首先我要说的是，我既是一个爱猫的人，又是一个爱狗的人。

That said, cats are assholes.

也就是说，猫都是混蛋。

That’s okay!

没关系！

It’s part of their charm.

这是他们魅力的一部分。

They’re loving, yes, but they’re also haughty and destructive and give approximately half a damn about your feelings or possessions.

是的，他们很有爱心，但他们也很傲慢和具有破坏性，并且对你的感受或财产非常在意。

Carrie Arnold allows as much when she sets out her own felinophilic bonafides in her Noēma piece.

凯莉·阿诺德 (Carrie Arnold) 在她的《诺埃玛》(Noēma) 作品中表达了自己对恋物癖的真诚，她也承认了这一点。

Yet, even she, a woman who calls cats “the only phenomenon on Earth that could lure me out of bed before sunrise,” was surprised to learn of the havoc they wreak on the natural world.

然而，即使是她这个称猫为“地球上唯一能在日出前引诱我起床的现象”的女人，也惊讶地发现猫对自然世界造成了严重破坏。

In the U.S. alone, as many as 80 million unowned cats (and another 20ish million pet cats with outdoor privileges) present a legitimate existential threat to birds, plants, and other wildlife.

仅在美国，就有多达 8000 万只无主猫（以及另外 2000 万只拥有户外特权的宠物猫）对鸟类、植物和其他野生动物构成了合理的生存威胁。

The story, for all its essayistic tendencies, focuses on the rift between conservationists and cat defenders—and also on the hypocrisy lurking in the way we think about outdoor cats.

这个故事尽管具有散文倾向，但重点关注了自然资源保护主义者和猫保护者之间的裂痕，以及我们对户外猫的看法中潜藏的虚伪。

We shun the peaceful “free dogs” of India, yet we don’t give a second thought to the cat with a bird in its mouth (nor do we realize that for every mouth-bird we see, many others have been ravaged out of sight).

我们回避印度和平的“自由狗”，但我们不会再考虑那只嘴里叼着鸟的猫（我们也没有意识到，每看到一只嘴鸟，就有许多其他鸟被蹂躏而消失）。

Then again, as Arnold points out, “the problem with cats has nothing to do with cats at all.

不过，正如阿诺德指出的那样，“猫的问题与猫根本无关。

The issue is a fundamentally human problem.” We’re so busy marking our own territory, it seems, we don’t think about the responsibility of pet stewardship.

这个问题本质上是一个人类问题。”我们似乎忙于标记自己的领地，而没有考虑宠物管理的责任。

Bob Barker was right all along.

鲍勃·巴克一直都是对的。

—PR

——公关

## Beamer, Dressman, Bodybag

## 投影仪、礼服师、腰包

Alexander Wells | European Review of Books | April 19, 2023 | 3,551 words

亚历山大·威尔斯 |欧洲书评| 2023 年 4 月 19 日 | 3,551 字

Shared language is about communication, for sure, but as Alexander Wells notes in the European Review of Books, it’s also about identity and belonging.

当然，共享语言与沟通有关，但正如亚历山大·威尔斯在《欧洲书评》中指出的那样，它也与身份和归属感有关。

Sometimes, even understanding the latest slang makes you feel in-the-know, right!?!?

有时，即使了解最新的俚语也会让你感觉自己很了解，对吧！？！？

(Not at all fond of how “right” has become the latest way to enthusiastically agree, but I digress.) As an editor of an English-language monthly published in Berlin, Wells is fascinated by ever-evolving common language usage in Germany, rife with combined English and German words cut like butter into flour to form something new and sometimes amusing, but always full of meaning.

（一点也不喜欢“正确”如何成为热情同意的最新方式，但我离题了。）作为柏林出版的一份英语月刊的编辑，威尔斯对德国不断发展的通用语言用法很着迷，其中充斥着英语和德语单词的组合，就像黄油切成面粉一样，形成一些新的东西，有时很有趣，但总是充满意义。

“German social media loves to mock awful Denglisch marketing attempts,” he writes.

“德国社交媒体喜欢嘲笑糟糕的 Denglisch 营销尝试，”他写道。

“But when the bilingual puns are good, they’re good—and enhanced by the thrill of belonging.

“但是，当双语双关语很好时，它们就很好，而且会因归属感而增强。

I love this one billboard ad for classic indie radio that reads Everybody hörts (« everyone listens to it »), and I love it not only because I like the pun, but because I feel a surge of pride that I’m in on the joke, that maybe I do really speak German.” I came for the appreciation of evolving language and stayed for the pun of it.

我喜欢这个经典独立电台的广告牌广告，上面写着“Everybody hörts”（“每个人都听它”），我喜欢它不仅因为我喜欢这个双关语，而且因为我对自己参与这个笑话感到一种自豪，也许我真的会说德语。”我来这里是为了欣赏不断发展的语言，而留下来是为了它的双关语。

—KS

—KS

## Is the Army’s New Tactical Bra Ready for Deployment?

## 陆军的新型战术胸罩准备好部署了吗？

Patricia Marx | The New Yorker | June 19, 2023 | 3,735 words

帕特里夏·马克思 |纽约客 | 2023 年 6 月 19 日 | 3,735 字

Who wouldn’t be grabbed by this title (combined with its cartoon illustration of a female soldier hanging from the air by her bra straps)?

谁不会被这个标题所吸引（结合其卡通插图，一名女士兵被胸罩带子悬挂在空中）？

I certainly was, and Patricia Marx delivers on the promise of fun with her slightly tongue-in-cheek account of all things female military uniform.

我当然是，帕特里夏·马克思用她略带半开玩笑的方式讲述了女军装的所有事情，兑现了乐趣的承诺。

I could not help but envision Edna Mode (superhero fashion designer from The Incredibles) as Marx heads into the Design Pattern Protype Shop at the Soldier’s Centre in Massachusetts.

当马克思走进马萨诸塞州士兵中心的设计图案原型店时，我情不自禁地想象埃德娜·莫德（《超人总动员》中的超级英雄时装设计师）。

After all, the designers she meets are in “chic black civvies,” there are areas designated to the Tropics and to the Arctic, and projects “have included a uniform that can change color and one that would enable troops to leap over twenty-foot walls.” These projects make a fire-resistant bra seem a touch tame, but the designers are as earnest about this brassiere as they are reluctant to let Marx squeeze herself into a prototype.

毕竟，她遇到的设计师都穿着“别致的黑色便服”，有指定的热带地区和北极地区，项目“包括一套可以改变颜色的制服和一套能让部队跳过二十英尺高墙的制服”。这些项目使防火胸罩显得有些平淡，但设计师们对这款胸罩的认真程度很高，因为他们不愿意让马克思将自己挤进原型中。

(Spoiler: She persuades them.) Marx intermixes her snoop around the center with a deep dive into the history of military uniforms—which is surprisingly fascinating, full of bizarre (and sexist) tidbits such as the fact that in 1943 “[t]he government asked Elizabeth Arden to concoct a lipstick to match the red piping on women’s Marine Corps uniforms.” Neither clothes nor the military usually captures my attention, but I am glad I got sucked into this piece: A thoroughly entertaining read.

（剧透：她说服了他们。）马克思将她对中心的窥探与对军装历史的深入探讨结合在一起——这令人惊讶地引人入胜，充满了奇异（和性别歧视）的花絮，例如 1943 年“政府要求伊丽莎白·雅顿调制一款口红，以搭配女海军陆战队制服上的红色滚边。”衣服和军队通常都不会引起我的注意，但我很高兴我被这篇文章所吸引：一本非常有趣的读物。

—CW

—CW

## Inside the Secretive World of Penile Enlargement

## 阴茎增大的秘密世界

Ava Kofman | ProPublica and The New Yorker | June 26, 2023 | 8,601 words

艾娃·科夫曼 | ProPublica 和《纽约客》| 2023 年 6 月 26 日 | 8,601 字

It’s easy to think that “men trying to upgrade their dongs” is a journalism cheat code of sorts.

人们很容易认为“男人试图升级他们的阴茎”是一种新闻作弊代码。

Having written about them myself many years ago, I can assure you that it’s not.

我自己多年前就写过关于它们的文章，我可以向你保证事实并非如此。

Pitfalls abound.

陷阱比比皆是。

Tone is everything.

语气就是一切。

Jokes are easy; reserve is hard.

笑话很容易；储备很难。

(So is avoiding double entendres.) Yet, Ava Kofman manages to thread every needle in her stunning examination of the state of penile-enlargement procedures, which focuses primarily on issues surrounding the popular Penuma implant.

（避免双关语也是如此。）然而，艾娃·科夫曼（Ava Kofman）在她对阴茎增大手术现状的令人震惊的检查中成功地做到了每一条针线，该检查主要集中在与流行的 Penuma 植入物相关的问题上。

She writes compassionately about the patients, not dismissing the complex psychological situations that led them to pursue surgery.

她对患者充满同情心，并没有忽视导致他们接受手术的复杂心理状况。

She writes unblinkingly about the doctor who popularized the procedure, and whose practice seems at times to operate with all the care of a 30-minute oil change joint—and about the surgeon who “was doing such brisk business repairing Penuma complications that he’d relocated his practice from Philadelphia to an office down the street.” And speaking of unblinking, I dare you not to wince as she plays fly on the wall during an implantation; you may never hear the phrase “inside out” the same way again.

她毫不眨眼地写到了推广该手术的医生，他的诊所有时似乎需要 30 分钟换油关节的悉心照料，以及这位外科医生“修复佩努马并发症的业务如此活跃，以至于他将诊所从费城搬到了街边的一间办公室”。说到不眨眼，我敢打赌，当她在植入过程中在墙上玩苍蝇游戏时，你不要皱眉；您可能再也不会以同样的方式听到“由内而外”这个短语了。

This story may have drawn you in with its imagined salaciousness, but it delivers something far better: truth.

这个故事可能以其想象中的淫荡吸引了你，但它传达了更好的东西：真相。

—PR

——公关

## — July —

## — 七月 —

## Meet the Psychedelic Boom’s First Responders

## 来认识一下迷幻热潮的第一反应者

Chris Colin | Wired | June 29, 2023 | 2,924 words

克里斯·科林 |有线| 2023 年 6 月 29 日 | 2,924 字

Recent psychedelics coverage tends to focus on four primary categories.

最近的迷幻药报道往往集中在四个主要类别。

There are the drugs’ benefits and/or dangers, as well as stories focusing on their creators and wielders: those who use them to help people and those who seek to profit from their use.

这些药物的好处和/或危险，以及针对其创造者和使用者的故事：那些使用它们来帮助人们的人和那些寻求从其使用中获利的人。

Chris Colin’s fascinating Wired feature skirts that tetrad, instead tracing the evolving norms around supporting a person when their inward journey goes to dark places.

克里斯·科林 (Chris Colin) 引人入胜的《连线》特色节目避开了这种四分法，而是追踪了当一个人的内心旅程走向黑暗时支持一个人的不断演变的规范。

From the opening graf, you know it’s going to be a fun read: “Everything was insane and fine.

从开头的格拉夫，你就知道这将是一本有趣的读物：“一切都疯狂又美好。

The walls had begun to bend, the grain in the floorboards was starting to run.

墙壁开始弯曲，地板上的纹理开始流动。

Jeff Greenberg’s body had blown apart into particles, pleasantly so.

杰夫·格林伯格的尸体被炸成颗粒，令人愉快。

When he closed his eyes, chrysanthemums blossomed.” Using Greenberg’s trip, his own psilocybin experience, and a solid dose of cosmic-cowboy history, Colin shows how the way we respond to a person’s “psychic distress” speaks volumes about how we respond to one another in general.

当他闭上眼睛时，菊花就开了。”科林利用格林伯格的旅行、他自己的裸盖菇素经历以及大量的宇宙牛仔历史，向我们展示了我们对一个人的“精神困扰”的反应方式如何充分说明了我们一般如何对彼此做出反应。

That we’re in the midst of a psychonautics surge is not surprising; that we’re responding to the moment with care and common sense is.

我们正处于心理航海学的浪潮之中并不奇怪。我们正在以谨慎和常识的态度应对这一时刻。

—PR

——公关

## Greta Gerwig’s ‘Barbie’ Dream Job

## 格蕾塔·葛韦格的“芭比娃娃”梦想工作

Willa Paskin | The New York Times Magazine | July 11, 2023 | 6,671 words

威拉·帕斯金 |纽约时报杂志 | 2023 年 7 月 11 日 | 6,671 字

After the barrage of Barbie-related content that has preceded Greta Gerwig’s forthcoming film, I was not sure I was ready for another 6,000 words on the subject.

在格蕾塔·葛韦格 (Greta Gerwig) 即将上映的电影中出现了一系列与芭比相关的内容之后，我不确定自己是否准备好再就这个主题再写 6,000 字。

Luckily, I succumbed and read Willa Paskin’s thoughtful discussion with Greta Gerwig on the Barbie film she is bemused she was allowed to make.

幸运的是，我屈服了，读到了威拉·帕斯金与格蕾塔·葛韦格关于芭比娃娃电影的深思熟虑的讨论，她对自己被允许拍摄的芭比电影感到困惑。

Paskin gets why she was: “[T]he fizzy marriage of filmmaker and material would break through the cacophony of contemporary life and return a retirement-age hunk of plastic to the zeitgeist.” Smart, Mattel.

帕斯金明白她的理由：“电影制片人和材料的结合将打破当代生活的喧嚣，让退休年龄的塑料大块回归时代精神。”聪明，美泰。

(And the snippets of the film Paskin describes do sound pretty good.) But what I most enjoyed was the reporting that went beyond the film.

（帕斯金描述的电影片段听起来确实不错。）但我最喜欢的是超越电影的报道。

Is Barbie a feminist, or really, really not?

芭比娃娃是女权主义者，还是真的，真的不是？

Why did her creator, Ruth Handler, refuse to allow Barbie to have a child?

为什么她的创造者露丝·汉德勒拒绝让芭比娃娃生孩子？

How did Mattel reinvent Barbie in 2015?

2015 年，美泰如何重塑芭比娃娃？

Read and find out.

阅读并找出答案。

As someone who grew up with classic Barbie—the one whose proportions meant she wouldn’t be able to stand up in real life—I was intrigued to learn about her evolution.

作为一个和经典芭比娃娃一起长大的人——芭比娃娃的比例意味着她在现实生活中无法站立——我很想了解她的进化。

But as evolved as she may now be, this remains my favorite quote from the piece: “A psychological study found that after playing with Barbies, girls thought themselves less capable of various careers than they did after playing with a control Mrs. Potato Head.” Go, Mrs. Potato Head.

但随着她现在的发展，这仍然是我最喜欢的那句话：“一项心理学研究发现，在玩了芭比娃娃之后，女孩们认为自己在各种职业上的能力不如在玩了对照土豆头夫人之后。”走吧，土豆头夫人。

—CW

—CW

## How I Survived a Wedding in a Jungle That Tried to Eat Me Alive

## 我是如何在一场试图把我活活吃掉的丛林婚礼中幸存下来的

Melissa Johnson | Outside | July 18, 2023 | 4,273 words

梅丽莎·约翰逊 |外面| 2023 年 7 月 18 日 | 4,273 字

I defy you not to squirm as you read Melissa Johnson’s account of her Guatemalan trek.

我敢打赌，当你读到梅丽莎·约翰逊 (Melissa Johnson) 讲述的危地马拉徒步旅行时，你一定会感到局促不安。

Her visceral descriptions conjure up the sticky, itchy, sweaty reality of the jungle until you feel enveloped by it; a written Jumanji, if you will.

她内心深处的描述让人想起丛林中粘稠、发痒、出汗的现实，直到你感觉被它包围；如果你愿意的话，可以写一本《勇敢者游戏》。

The only romance here lies in the purpose of the trek: A marriage at El Mirador, the ruins of a Mayan city.

这里唯一的浪漫在于徒步旅行的目的：在玛雅城市废墟埃尔米拉多举行婚礼。

(The ultimate in an inconvenient destination wedding.) Ten friends attend, and each struggles on the trek, but only Johnson gets bitten on the vagina by a tick, an incident she describes with as much eloquence as she does the wedding ceremony.

（一场不方便的目的地婚礼的终极结果。） 十个朋友参加了，每个人都在长途跋涉中挣扎，但只有约翰逊的阴道被蜱虫咬了，她对这一事件的描述与她在婚礼上的描述一样雄辩。

It’s fun and funny but also an honest reflection on aging and lost time—not to mention a brutally effective reminder to remember bug repellant spray on your next jungle trip.

这既有趣又有趣，也是对衰老和浪费时间的诚实反思——更不用说它还残酷有效地提醒你在下次丛林旅行时记得使用驱虫喷雾。

—CW

—CW

## A Funeral for Fish and Chips: Why are Britain’s Chippies Disappearing?

## 炸鱼薯条的葬礼：为什么英国的炸薯条消失了？

Tom Lamont | The Guardian | July 20, 2023 | 5,276 words

汤姆·拉蒙特 |卫报| 2023 年 7 月 20 日 | 5,276 字

I first came to this piece because of my own love of fish-and-chips, but also because I knew I’d find a parade of aggressively British-sounding eatery names.

我第一次看到这篇文章是因为我自己对炸鱼薯条的热爱，但也因为我知道我会找到一大堆听起来咄咄逼人的英国餐馆名字。

In that, I wasn’t disappointed.

在这一点上，我并没有失望。

But I also found something unexpectedly tragic, and unexpectedly resolute.

但我也发现了一些出乎意料的悲惨，出乎意料的坚决。

Over the course of a year, Tom Lamont frequented “chippies” around the U.K., concentrating on Scotland’s East Neuk of Fife—a coastal area jutting out of the land between Edinburgh and Dundee, and by many accounts the world’s preeminent purveyor of the meal.

在一年的时间里，汤姆·拉蒙特经常光顾英国各地的“炸薯条”，主要集中在苏格兰东纽克法夫郡——爱丁堡和邓迪之间的一个沿海地区，被许多人认为是世界上最出色的炸薯条供应商。

When he began, supply-chain issues and soaring energy prices had already driven the industry to the edge of disaster.

当他开始工作时，供应链问题和能源价格飙升已经将该行业推向灾难的边缘。

By the time his year was up, things had gotten markedly worse.

当他这一年结束时，情况明显变得更糟。

Yet, Lamont’s elegy is suffused with love: his love for the “paradoxical richness without grossness” that marks a great fish and chips meal; villagers’ love for the stalwart shops and shopkeepers in their communities; even the friers’ and fishers’ love for the tradition.

然而，拉蒙特的挽歌充满了爱：他对“矛盾的丰富而不粗俗”的热爱，这标志着一顿美味的炸鱼薯条大餐；村民对社区里有实力的商店和店主的喜爱；甚至炸薯条和渔民对这一传统的热爱。

“Fishing is a serious matter here,” Lamont writes.

“在这里钓鱼是一件严肃的事情，”拉蒙特写道。

“Fish and chips is a serious meal.” And as shop after shop closes, from the Lowford Fish Bar to Jack Spratt’s Superior to Jackson’s Chippie, each meal takes on even more weight.

“鱼和薯条是一顿严肃的饭菜。”随着一家又一家的商店关门，从 Lowford Fish Bar 到 Jack Spratt's Superior，再到 Jackson's Chippie，每顿饭的分量都变得更加重。

It’s a microcosm.

这是一个缩影。

A metaphor.

一个比喻。

And Lamont’s piece unpacks it all deftly, making sure you can take it away and digest it on your own time.

拉蒙特的作品巧妙地解开了这一切，确保你可以把它拿走并在自己的时间消化它。

Hopefully by the seaside.

希望是在海边。

—PR

——公关

## — August —

## — 八月 —

## ‘I Didn’t Kill My Wife!’ — An Oral History of ‘The Fugitive’

## “我没有杀我的妻子！”——《逃亡者》的口述历史

Andy Greene | Rolling Stone | July 29, 2023 | 12,243 words

安迪·格林 |滚石 | 2023 年 7 月 29 日 | 12,243 字

If you’ve watched The Fugitive more times than you can count—and let’s face it, you have—you probably think of the 1993 movie as a perfectly crafted thriller.

如果您看过《逃亡者》的次数多得数不过来——面对现实吧，您确实看过了——您可能会认为这部 1993 年的电影是一部制作完美的惊悚片。

Not so much, it turns out!

事实证明，并没有那么多！

As Andy Greene’s oral history makes clear, the classic result belies the seat-of-the-pants execution.

正如安迪·格林的口述历史所表明的那样，经典的结果掩盖了凭感觉执行的做法。

A star who was convinced the film would tank his career.

一位坚信这部电影会毁掉他职业生涯的明星。

A screenplay that never got finished.

一个从未完成的剧本。

An ensemble actor who constantly found ways to maximize his screen time.

一位群星演员，不断寻找最大化荧幕时间的方法。

A cast member who fell out after most of the movie had already been shot (and, consequently, a janky fake beard).

一名演员在电影大部分拍摄结束后闹翻了（因此，留了一把稀疏的假胡子）。

A climax that was plotted on set.

片场策划的高潮。

Dialogue that, seemingly more often than not, came straight from the ever-fizzing brain of Tommy Lee Jones.

对话似乎常常直接来自汤米·李·琼斯不断沸腾的大脑。

As much as I usually despise the word, this story officially qualifies as “rollicking.” Harrison Ford may not have participated, but Greene’s reporting ensures that his presence is still felt, whether laughing over the movie’s impending dud status or inviting Sela Ward to improv their scenes together on the fly.

尽管我通常鄙视这个词，但这个故事正式被称为“欢闹”。哈里森·福特可能没有参加，但格林的报道确保人们仍然能感受到他的存在，无论是嘲笑电影即将到来的无用状态，还是邀请雪拉·沃德一起即时改进他们的场景。

At this rate, every movie is going to get an oral history on every major anniversary, and I regret to inform you that next year marks 30 years since Ernest Goes to School and 3 Ninjas Kick Back.

按照这个速度，每部电影都会在每个重大周年纪念日都有口述历史，我很遗憾地通知大家，明年是《欧内斯特上学》和《三忍者踢球》上映 30 周年。

Then again, as long as those inevitable pieces aim to replicate the good vibes and rich details of this one, there’s no such thing as too many.

话又说回来，只要这些不可避免的作品旨在复制这件作品的良好氛围和丰富细节，就没有太多。

—PR

——公关

## Beirut, at Sunset

## 贝鲁特，日落

Tamara Saade | The Delacorte Review & Literary Hub | August 3, 2023 | 3,971 words

塔玛拉·萨德 |德拉科特评论与文学中心 | 2023 年 8 月 3 日 | 3,971 字

When a disaster strikes affecting thousands, the only way you can possibly begin to understand the toll is to learn the stories of survivors.

当一场影响数千人的灾难袭来时，您可能开始了解损失的唯一方法就是了解幸存者的故事。

On August 4th, 2020, 218 were killed and 7,000 injured in an ammonium nitrate explosion at the Port of Beirut.

2020年8月4日，贝鲁特港发生硝酸铵爆炸，造成218人死亡、7000人受伤。

Through personal accounts, and as a way to confront her own trauma over the event, Tamara Saade bears witness to those that were there.

通过个人叙述，并作为面对自己因该事件而遭受的创伤的一种方式，塔玛拉·萨德见证了那些在场的人。

“I had thought that telling the stories of other people would make writing about August fourth easier for me,” she writes.

“我原以为讲述别人的故事会让我更容易写八月四日，”她写道。

“But I came to see that it was as hard, if not harder, to do justice to these people and their stories of that day.” In this beautiful braided essay, Saade processes her own thoughts, reactions, and feelings, alongside those of the citizens she profiles in the aftermath of the explosions.

“但我开始发现，要公正地对待这些人和他们那天的故事，即使不是更困难，也同样困难。”在这篇美丽的编织文章中，萨德处理了她自己的想法、反应和感受，以及她在爆炸后描述的公民的想法、反应和感受。

Sentence by sentence, scene by scene, Saade’s measured prose makes cogent the post-blast chaos and confusion, creating order out of disorder, in a bold attempt to find peace where once was pandemonium.

萨德的文笔一字一句、一幕接着一幕，让爆炸后的混乱和混乱变得令人信服，从无序中创造秩序，大胆尝试在曾经的混乱中寻找和平。

—KS

—KS

## Epiphany at the Y

## Y 的顿悟

Diane Mehta | Virginia Quarterly Review | June 12, 2023 | 4,236 words

黛安·梅塔 |弗吉尼亚季刊评论| 2023 年 6 月 12 日 | 4,236 字

I love to swim.

我喜欢游泳。

Put me in front of a body of water and I will want to jump in it—temperature be damned.

把我放在一片水前面，我会想跳进去——管它的温度。

The feeling of a new silky texture rushing to envelop your skin.

全新丝滑质感的感觉急速包裹您的肌肤。

The silence of submerging.

淹没的寂静。

The sudden weightlessness of heavy limbs.

沉重的四肢突然失重。

However, not all swimming has equal majesty.

然而，并不是所有的游泳运动都具有同样的威严。

Give me endless wild splashing in a sea or a lake, never the confusing etiquette of public pool lane-swimming.

让我在大海或湖中尽情嬉戏，而不是在公共泳池泳道里游泳的令人困惑的礼仪。

As I read this beautiful essay, I nodded to Diane Mehta’s frustration at swimming in the slow lane of her local YMCA pool.

当我读到这篇美丽的文章时，我对黛安·梅塔在当地基督教青年会游泳池的慢泳道里游泳时的挫败感点了点头。

Why was a woman touching her foot?

女人为什么要摸自己的脚？

Why was another woman performing cartwheels and ballet steps?

为什么另一个女人要表演侧手翻和芭蕾舞步？

But Mehta keeps on going.

但梅塔继续前进。

Every.

每一个。

Single.

单身的。

Day.

天。

You will root for her as she learns to swim freestyle for the first time, and feel for her as she comes to grips with middle age and her new, less cooperative body.

当她第一次学习自由泳时，你会为她加油；当她开始面对中年和她新的、不那么合作的身体时，你会为她感到感动。

She swims until she “fell in love with the woman who cartwheeled down the lane, the stalwart silver-haired man who strode in with deliberation, [and] the older lady who gravitated forward like a Galapagos turtle.” And she swims until she also loves her own body again.

她一直游到“爱上了那个在小巷里翻滚的女人，那个从容不迫地大步走进来的坚定的银发男人，以及像加拉帕戈斯海龟一样向前推进的老太太”。她一直游着，直到她再次爱上自己的身体。

I think I need to give lane-swimming another chance.

我想我需要再给泳道一次机会。

—CW

—CW

## The Mysteries of Pittsburgh

## 匹兹堡之谜

Werner Herzog | The New Yorker | August 21, 2023 | 3,482 words

沃纳·赫尔佐格 |纽约客 | 2023 年 8 月 21 日 | 3,482 字

In an excerpt from his forthcoming book, Every Man From Himself and God Against All, Werner Herzog reflects on his time spent in Pennsylvania’s westernmost city.

维尔纳·赫尔佐格在他即将出版的新书《每个人都来自自己，上帝反对所有人》的摘录中，回顾了他在宾夕法尼亚州最西部城市度过的时光。

I’ve watched Herzog’s films, but this was my first experience of him conjuring pictures from a page.

我看过赫尔佐格的电影，但这是我第一次经历他从一页纸上变出图像。

Unsurprisingly, he is very good at it: a keen eye for detail, astute character observation, and the ability to tell a good yarn make this a riveting piece.

毫不奇怪，他非常擅长这一点：对细节的敏锐洞察力、敏锐的人物观察能力以及讲述好故事的能力使这成为一部引人入胜的作品。

His prose knocks up another notch when he meets the Franklins, a family that takes him in during his studies at Duquesne University.

当他遇到富兰克林一家时，他的散文又提升了一个档次，富兰克林一家在他在杜肯大学学习期间收留了他。

His love for them is apparent in the warm descriptions of the hustle and bustle of the busy household, complete with twins, grannies, a dog, and a failed rock musician named Billy, who would only emerge from bed in the afternoon, “stark naked, stretching pleasurably.” Throughout, Herzog notes inspiration for his films—fascinating tidbits that included the dancing chickens in Stroszek deriving from a hallucination while traveling from Mexico with hepatitis.

他对他们的爱在对忙碌家庭的喧嚣的温暖描述中显而易见，包括双胞胎、奶奶、一只狗，还有一个名叫比利的失败的摇滚音乐家，他只会在下午从床上爬起来，“赤身裸体，愉快地伸展身体”。自始至终，赫尔佐格都记录了他电影的灵感来源——一些引人入胜的花絮，其中包括《斯特罗泽克》中跳舞的小鸡，这些小鸡是从患有肝炎的墨西哥旅行时产生的幻觉。

He can’t resist a bit of name-dropping and grandiosity, as might be expected, but these well-crafted scenes more than compensate.

正如人们所预料的那样，他无法抗拒一些点名和浮夸的表现，但这些精心制作的场景足以弥补这一点。

—CW

—CW

## — September —

## — 九月 —

## The Evolution of the Hip-Hop Hunk

## 嘻哈猛男的演变

Clover Hope | Pitchfork | September 6, 2023 | 2,781 words

四叶草希望 |干草叉| 2023 年 9 月 6 日 | 2,781 字

My wife’s in love with Method Man.

我妻子很喜欢 Method Man。

Why shouldn’t she be?

为什么她不应该这样呢？

Dude is …

老兄是……

very attractive.

非常有吸引力。

I mean, that’s just science.

我的意思是，这只是科学。

Besides, we’re all afforded celebrity crushes, especially those that took root in our younger years.

此外，我们都会迷恋名人，尤其是那些在我们年轻时就扎根的人。

Clover Hope was in love with Method Man too, but she was also in love with LL Cool J, DMX, Ja Rule, and Nelly, just to name a few—and in plotting her own life of crushes against the arc of hip-hop’s evolution, she elucidates how sexuality became an indispensable marketing ploy for male artists.

Clover Hope 也爱上了 Method Man，但她也爱上了 LL Cool J、DMX、Ja Rule 和 Nelly，仅举几例——在根据嘻哈发展的轨迹规划自己的迷恋生活时，她阐明了性如何成为男性艺术家不可或缺的营销策略。

Sometimes that entered problematic waters, as when Tupac grew into sex symbol.

有时这会进入有问题的领域，比如当图帕克成长为性感象征时。

But times change, and when Hope surveys the present landscape, she sees little that gets her heart racing.

但时代在变，当霍普审视当前的情况时，她发现几乎没有什么能让她心跳加速的东西。

Some of that is age, maybe, but much of it is archetype: When you’re the dominant cultural aesthetic on Planet Earth, the commercial behemoths need to flatten and trope-ify you any way possible.

也许其中一部分是年龄，但大部分是原型：当你成为地球上占主导地位的文化审美时，商业巨头需要以任何可能的方式扁平化和比喻你。

So we don’t have Andre 3000s anymore; instead, we have Drakes and Jack Harlows.

所以我们不再有 Andre 3000；相反，我们有德雷克斯和杰克·哈洛斯。

Besides, female artists have come along and cornered the market on sexual fantasy, and queer artists have spun and subverted the the gaze as well.

此外，女性艺术家的出现并垄断了性幻想市场，酷儿艺术家也旋转和颠覆了人们的视线。

(“A single second of a Megan Thee Stallion Instagram workout video is worth a million and one Drake gym mirror selfies,” she writes.) This piece trades on looking backward, but Hope’s genius is in nudging our expectations—and our appetites—forward.

（她写道：“Megan Thee Stallion Instagram 健身视频的一秒价值相当于一百万张 Drake 健身房的镜子自拍照。”）这篇文章以回顾过去为卖点，但 Hope 的天才在于推动我们的期望和胃口向前发展。

—PR

——公关

## “I Shall Not Be Moved”: Inside a New York City Sumo Wrestling Club

## “我不会被感动”：纽约市相扑摔跤俱乐部内部

Jackson Wald | GQ | September 13, 2023 | 2,725 words

杰克逊·沃尔德 |智群 | 2023 年 9 月 13 日 | 2,725 字

When you first meet James Grammer, the central character of this underdog sports tale, you’d be forgiven for thinking something along the lines of this again?

当你第一次见到这个失败者体育故事的主角詹姆斯·格拉默时，你会再次思考类似的事情吗？

The seeming disconnect of a white sumo wrestler, or any athlete in a sport that tradition (or racism) has deemed “not theirs,” has fueled many a glib fish-out-of-water piece.

白人相扑选手或传统（或种族主义）认为“不属于他们”的任何运动项目中的任何运动员看似脱节，助长了许多油嘴滑舌的鱼出水的作品。

Thankfully, Jackson Wald’s story fully ignores that trope, and Grammer becomes one of the most interesting people I met this week.

值得庆幸的是，杰克逊·沃尔德的故事完全忽略了这一比喻，格拉默成为我本周遇到的最有趣的人之一。

While sumo has grown in the U.S. over the past few years, it’s still a curiosity; when Grammer and his fellow enthusiasts began practicing in a Brooklyn park, they had to deal with onlookers asking to join or even betting on their matches.

尽管相扑运动在过去几年在美国不断发展，但它仍然是一种好奇心。当格拉默和他的热心伙伴开始在布鲁克林公园练习时，他们不得不面对要求参加比赛甚至投注比赛的旁观者。

Grammer wants to be a champion, but the charm of his story lies less in his quest for greatness than in his human complexity.

格拉默想成为冠军，但他的故事的魅力不在于他对伟大的追求，而在于他人性的复杂性。

Before a match, most sumos think about their opponents’ weakness.

在比赛前，大多数相扑选手都会考虑对手的弱点。

Not Grammer.

不是格拉默。

“As a practitioner of Tibetan Buddhism,” Wald writes, “he believes in a series of deities, including ones that are fierce and wrathful, and that as he’s staring his opponent directly in the eyes, he imagines he and his opponent as two forearm hairs on one of the evil deities, blowing against each other in the wind.” Yes, you’ll find the hallmarks of a good niche sports piece—a giant boa constrictor, a guy who seems to want to be a samurai, Wald sparring with the 340-found Grammer to predictable results—but it’s Grammer himself you’ll remember, and particularly the man he is outside the dohyo.

“作为藏传佛教的修行者，”瓦尔德写道，“他信仰一系列的神灵，包括凶猛和愤怒的神灵，当他直视对手的眼睛时，他把自己和对手想象成邪恶神灵之一的两根前臂毛发，在风中相互吹拂。”是的，你会发现优秀的小众体育作品的标志——一条巨大的蟒蛇，一个似乎想成为武士的家伙，沃尔德与 340 名格拉默拳击手，结果可预见——但你会记得的是格拉默本人，尤其是他在土兵之外的那个人。

—PR

——公关

## Revisit 51 Years of Giant Pandas at the National Zoo, From Beloved Babies to Fun in the Snow

## 重温国家动物园大熊猫 51 周年，从心爱的宝宝到雪地里的欢乐

Meilan Solly | Smithsonian Magazine | September 22, 2023 | 3,700 words

梅兰索莉|史密森尼杂志 | 2023 年 9 月 22 日 | 3,700 字

There’s something about pandas: these bumbling teddy bears entrance us humans, First Lady Pat Nixon included.

熊猫有一些东西：这些笨手笨脚的泰迪熊让我们人类着迷，包括第一夫人帕特·尼克松。

Sitting at a dinner in Beijing with Chinese Premier Zhou Enlai, Nixon commented on a cute panda picture she saw on a cigarette tin.

尼克松在北京与中国总理周恩来共进晚餐时，对她在香烟罐上看到的一张可爱的熊猫图片发表了评论。

Zhou responded, “I’ll give you some.” “Cigarettes?” she asked.

周说：“我给你一些。” “香烟？”她问道。

“No. Pandas.” And so our story begins, with the two promised pandas arriving at the Smithsonian National Zoo in 1972.

“不。熊猫。”我们的故事就这样开始了，承诺的两只大熊猫于 1972 年抵达史密森尼国家动物园。

The next 51 years at the Smithsonian Panda House are carefully documented by Meilan Solly in this enchanting piece.

Meilan Solly 在这部迷人的作品中仔细记录了史密森尼熊猫馆接下来的 51 年。

Our original pandas—Ling-Ling and Hsing-Hsing—struggled with fertility issues, which were, rather harshly, reported at the time as being “largely because of ineptness by the male.” (Hsing-Hsing chose some bizarre positions.) But despite their lack of progeny, this pair were adored until their passing.

我们最初的大熊猫——玲玲和兴兴——一直在与生育问题作斗争，当时有相当严厉的报道称，“很大程度上是因为雄性的无能”。 （兴兴选择了一些奇怪的立场。）尽管他们没有后代，但这对夫妇直到去世为止都受到人们的崇拜。

Next into the Big Brother Panda House were Mei Xiang and Tian Tian, with Tian Tian proving a bit more competent in the bedroom department.

接下来进入熊猫哥哥屋的是美香和甜甜，甜甜在卧室方面表现得更胜一筹。

However, artificial insemination was still necessary for the appearance of cubs—three surviving—including Xiao Qi Ji, a miracle baby born to Mei Xiang at 22.

然而，仍然需要人工授精才能出现幼崽（三只幸存），其中包括小七吉，它是梅香在 22 岁时生下的奇迹婴儿。

A whopping 639,000 people tuned in live to watch this birth via live Panda Cam.

多达 639,000 人通过现场直播熊猫直播观看了这一诞生。

(No pressure, Mei Xiang.) Panda Cam remained hugely popular, with baby Xiao Qi Ji providing some much-needed endorphins to people stuck at home during the COVID-19 pandemic.

（没有压力，梅香。）熊猫摄像机仍然非常受欢迎，小七姬为在 COVID-19 大流行期间困在家里的人们提供了一些急需的内啡肽。

Solly includes some Panda Cam footage (don’t get me started on the pandas sliding in the snow), heartwarming photos, interesting facts, and fun anecdotes.

Solly 包括一些熊猫摄像机镜头（别让我开始看熊猫在雪地里滑行）、温馨的照片、有趣的事实和有趣的轶事。

You cannot help but smile.

你忍不住微笑。

Under an agreement with the China Wildlife Conservation Association, the current pandas will return to China on December 7, 2023.

根据与中国野生动物保护协会的协议，目前的大熊猫将于2023年12月7日返回中国。

Smithsonian Magazine has written about the Panda House for over half a century.

半个多世纪以来，史密森尼杂志一直在报道熊猫馆。

This essay is a worthy addition as the pandas’ time in America draws to a close.

随着大熊猫在美国的时光即将结束，这篇文章值得补充。

—CW

—CW

## “Florida Man,” Explained

## “佛罗里达人”解释

Kristen Arnett | Vox | September 18, 2023 | 1,634 words

克里斯汀·阿内特 |沃克斯| 2023 年 9 月 18 日 | 1,634 字

Have you played the game Florida Man?

你玩过“佛罗里达人”游戏吗？

It’s simple: type your birthday (month, date) and “Florida Man” into a search bar.

很简单：在搜索栏中输入您的生日（月份、日期）和“佛罗里达男人”。

You will be regaled (as I was) with not one, but several inane crimes committed over the years by men in Florida.

你将会（像我一样）看到佛罗里达州男人多年来犯下的不止一桩愚蠢的罪行，而是几起愚蠢的罪行。

As Kristen Arnett explains, “These crimes are odd and incomprehensible; the kind of behavior that someone might associate with a badly behaved toddler whose brain has yet to fully develop.” I had several to choose from; my favorite was the Florida Man who was caught on video driving down I-4 while standing up, his upper body poking through the sunroof.

正如克里斯汀·阿内特（Kristen Arnett）所解释的那样，“这些犯罪行为既奇怪又难以理解；人们可能会将这种行为与大脑尚未完全发育的行为不良的幼儿联系起来。”我有几个可供选择；我最喜欢的是那个佛罗里达男子，视频中他在 4 号州际公路上站着开车，上半身从天窗里伸出来。

Arnett explains that the game is made possible because of the Sunshine Law, which makes arrest records and mugshots “readily available online for the general public to gawk and point at.

阿内特解释说，这款游戏之所以成为可能，是因为《阳光法》，该法使得逮捕记录和面部照片“可以很容易地在网上供公众观看和指指点点”。

If you’ve committed a crime in the Sunshine State, that information becomes accessible to everyone, everywhere, immediately.” This piece is far more than just a litany of bizarre behavior.

如果你在阳光之州犯了罪，任何地方的每个人都可以立即获取该信息。”这篇文章不仅仅是一连串奇怪的行为。

Arnett, a third-generation Floridian, suggests that while the Florida Man meme makes it easy for outsiders to dismiss the state as the epicenter of America’s ills, we need to look deeper.

阿内特是第三代佛罗里达人，他表示，虽然“佛罗里达人”文化基因让局外人很容易将该州视为美国弊病的中心，但我们需要更深入地研究。

“I think the harder lesson is that Florida is no different from anywhere else; the headlines just turn our hardships into a joke to make things more palatable,” she writes.

“我认为最惨痛的教训是，佛罗里达州与其他地方没有什么不同；头条新闻只是把我们的困难变成了笑话，让事情变得更容易接受，”她写道。

“We can’t and won’t disregard the fact that we’re going to stay strange and continue to be completely, authentically ourselves; we also can’t forget the wonderful alongside the troubles.” Maybe it’s time we embraced that little bit of Florida Man in all of us.

“我们不能也不会忽视这样一个事实：我们将保持陌生，并继续做完整、真实的自己；我们也不能忘记烦恼旁边的美好。”也许是时候我们拥抱我们所有人身上的那一点佛罗里达人了。

—KS

—KS

## — October —

## — 十月 —

## The Great Zelle Pool Scam

## 泽勒泳池大骗局

Devin Friedman | Insider | October 1, 2023 | 6,021 words

德文·弗里德曼 |内幕 | 2023 年 10 月 1 日 | 6,021 字

Devin Friedman and his wife wanted a pool.

德文·弗里德曼和他的妻子想要一个游泳池。

So they hired a contractor.

所以他们聘请了一名承包商。

And when their contractor emailed them to ask them to wire the money to a couple of odd-sounding usernames, they did.

当他们的承包商给他们发电子邮件要求他们将钱汇到几个听起来奇怪的用户名时，他们照做了。

Then they did it again.

然后他们又这么做了。

And again.

又来了。

And then they learned that those emails weren’t from their contractor at all.

然后他们得知这些电子邮件根本不是来自他们的承包商。

Rather than simply marinate in the shame and self-pity of getting royally scammed, Friedman tried to get his money back.

弗里德曼并没有简单地沉浸在被皇家诈骗的耻辱和自怜中，而是试图拿回自己的钱。

When that failed, he wrote a piece about why he couldn’t get his money back.

当失败后，他写了一篇文章解释为什么他无法拿回钱。

Sounds like a bummer, right?

听起来很糟糕，对吧？

Not so fast.

没那么快。

I mean, it is for them, but it also turned into what might be the funniest feature I’ve read all year.

我的意思是，这是给他们的，但它也变成了我一年中读过的最有趣的专题。

Sure, there’s a little Joel Stein here.

当然，这里有一个小乔尔斯坦。

(“Like so many things I use to conduct the most critical tasks in my everyday life with a carefree obliviousness, I didn’t really know what Zelle was.”) But Friedman’s self-deprecation is perfectly tuned, and even when the reporting gets heavier, he threads humor through at just the right angle, a necessary weft to the piece’s warp.

（“就像我在日常生活中无忧无虑地用来执行最关键任务的许多东西一样，我真的不知道 Zelle 是什么。”）但弗里德曼的自嘲是完美的，即使当报道变得更沉重时，他也以正确的角度穿插幽默，这是文章经纱的必要纬纱。

(“Sen.

（“森。

Elizabeth Warren, the financial industry regulator banks most love to hate, has been petitioning Zelle to find out exactly how much fraud there is.

银行界又爱又恨的金融业监管机构伊丽莎白·沃伦(Elizabeth Warren)一直在向泽勒请愿，要求查明到底有多少欺诈行为。

And the data she’s collected suggests there’s probably, technically speaking, a whole fucking lot.”) As he says himself, “[o]ut of all the kinds of money, money to build a pool is probably the very best kind of money for the world to suffer the loss of.” There’s no poor-me going on here.

她收集的数据表明，从技术上讲，可能有一大堆。”）正如他自己所说，“在所有种类的钱中，建立一个矿池的钱可能是世界上最容易遭受损失的钱。”这里没有可怜的我。

You, however, will be poorer for it if you skip this one.

然而，如果你跳过这一点，你会变得更穷。

—PR

——公关

## Who’s Afraid of Spatchcocked Chicken?

## 谁害怕炸鸡？

C Pam Zhang | Eater | October 3, 2023 | 1,300 wordsI love words.

C Pam 张 |食者| 2023 年 10 月 3 日 | 1,300字我喜欢文字。

(I know, shocking.) I am also a vegetarian.

（我知道，令人震惊。）我也是素食主义者。

So it was with delight and horror that I read C Pam Zhang’s piece all about the English language—and meat.

因此，当我读到 C Pam 张关于英语和肉类的文章时，我感到既高兴又恐惧。

Have you ever considered why most animals are shielded by a fancy term once they hit a plate?

你有没有想过，为什么大多数动物一旦上了盘子，就会被一个花哨的术语所保护？

Why is it a beef bourguignon, not a cow casserole?

为什么是布吉尼翁牛肉而不是牛砂锅？

Zhang muses extensively on this prissiness—while spatchcocking a chicken, as a student at Cambridge, no less.

作为剑桥大学的一名学生，张在打鸡的同时对这种拘谨进行了广泛的思考。

It turns out (like many things in England) it has to do with the French.

事实证明（就像英国的许多事情一样）它与法国人有关。

And class.

还有班级。

Zhang explains: “The names of the living animals have Anglo roots, whereas the names of the ingredients came from the French—a trademark of Norman conquerors who, in the 11th century, hoped to subjugate the ‘savage’ Natives of the British Isles.” (The humble chicken managed to keep its name by being considered peasant food, not worthy of a new anointment.) Zhang compares this coyness with words in Mandarin, where pork can literally be labeled “pig flesh.” It’s a fascinating and fun essay, with the added pleasure of imagining the smell of baked chicken guts wafting down the hallowed halls of Cambridge and into the nostrils of disgruntled young lords who like their veal marinated.

张解释道：“活体动物的名称源自盎格鲁，而成分的名称则来自法语——这是诺曼征服者的商标，他们在 11 世纪希望征服不列颠群岛的‘野蛮’原住民。” （这种不起眼的鸡通过被认为是农家食品而保住了自己的名字，不值得被赋予新的称号。）张将这种羞怯与普通话进行了比较，普通话中猪肉可以字面地贴上“猪肉”的标签。这是一篇引人入胜且有趣的文章，想象烤鸡内脏的气味从剑桥神圣的大厅飘过，进入那些喜欢腌制小牛肉的心怀不满的年轻贵族的鼻孔，这会带来额外的乐趣。

(Helped by the marvelous illustration of a chicken running down said halls.) While a little shorter than our usual Longreads offerings, you can’t say “spatchcocked” without encountering some joy, so I hope you will forgive me.

（得益于一只鸡在大厅里奔跑的奇妙插图。）虽然比我们通常的长读产品要短一些，但你不能说“spatchcocked”而不遇到一些欢乐，所以我希望你能原谅我。

—CW

—CW

## Confessions of a Tableside Flambéur

## 桌边火焰人的自白

Adam Reiner | Eater | October 11, 2023 | 1,553 words

亚当·雷纳 |食者| 2023 年 10 月 11 日 | 1,553 字

Adam Reiner’s short but sweet Eater piece on food as entertainment is perfectly satisfying.

亚当·雷纳（Adam Reiner）关于食物作为娱乐的简短而甜蜜的《食者》文章非常令人满意。

For three years Reiner worked as a captain at a Manhattan chophouse called The Grill, where he prepared food tableside, including Dover sole and Bananas Foster, the flaming pièce de résistance.

雷纳在曼哈顿一家名为 The Grill 的小餐馆担任队长三年，在那里他在桌边准备食物，包括多佛比目鱼和火红的主菜香蕉福斯特 (Bananas Foster)。

Reiner serves more than stories of boorish patrons as seen from behind the gueridon.

莱纳提供的不仅仅是从后面看到的粗俗顾客的故事。

(The fancy trolley containing cooking ingredients and utensils.) He gives us a taste of food-as-performance at his restaurant and others, such as Papi Steak, where the $1,000 wagyu ribeye’s reveal is meat theater—complete with special effects that could rival Taylor Swift in concert.

（装有烹饪原料和器具的精美手推车。）他在他的餐厅和其他餐厅（例如 Papi Steak）让我们体验了食物即表演的滋味，那里价值 1,000 美元的和牛肋眼牛排呈现出肉类剧场的效果，其特效可以与泰勒·斯威夫特（Taylor Swift）的演唱会相媲美。

“The steak even has its own designated entrance music that blares in the dining room to announce its arrival,” he writes.

“牛排甚至有自己指定的入口音乐，在餐厅里响起来宣布它的到来，”他写道。

Reiner also reveals the perils of performance, and the very real anxieties that go along with it.

莱纳还揭示了表演的危险以及随之而来的真正的焦虑。

For every Bananas Foster or cherries jubilee, there’s always the potential that the flambé is a flop, “like striking a book of matches in the rain.” Steak entrances and fancy flaming bananas aside, it’s Reiner’s writing that will keep you coming back for more in a story that’s less about the food and more about his uneasy relationship with the distastefulness of restaurant showmanship.

对于每一次香蕉福斯特或樱桃庆典，火焰总是有可能失败，“就像在雨中划火柴一样”。除了牛排入口和精美的火焰香蕉之外，赖纳的写作会让你回味更多，这个故事不再是关于食物，而是更多地讲述他与令人厌恶的餐厅表演技巧之间的不安关系。

—KS

—KS

## The Evolutionary Reasons We Are Drawn to Horror Movies and Haunted Houses

## 我们被恐怖电影和鬼屋吸引的进化原因

Athena Aktipis, Coltan Scrivner | Scientific American | November 1, 2023 | 3,137 words

雅典娜·阿克蒂皮斯 (Athena Aktipis)，科尔坦·斯克里夫纳 (Coltan Scrivner)科学美国人 | 2023 年 11 月 1 日 | 3,137 字

A couple of weeks ago, I went to a Halloween event.

几周前，我参加了一个万圣节活动。

It was a big deal, with different haunted houses built in old farm buildings.

这是一件大事，在古老的农场建筑中建造了不同的鬼屋。

As someone who jumps a mile if a piece of paper blows across my path, I wasn’t thrilled by the prospect—but my niece and her friend dragged me along.

作为一个如果一张纸吹过我的路就会跳一英里的人，我对这种前景并不感到兴奋——但我的侄女和她的朋友拖着我走了下去。

I’m not proud of how tightly I gripped the hands of those teens, or that I made them lead the way through rooms where witches and ghouls jumped out of the shadows (different teenagers, dressed up and trading their dignity for holiday money, but still terrifying).

我并不为我紧紧地握住这些青少年的手而感到自豪，也不为我让他们带路穿过女巫和食尸鬼从阴影中跳出来的房间（不同的青少年，打扮得漂漂亮亮，用自己的尊严换取节日钱，但仍然很可怕）。

So why exactly did I do this to myself?

那么我到底为什么要这样对自己呢？

Athena Aktipis and Coltan Scrivner know.

雅典娜·阿克蒂皮斯和科尔坦·斯克里夫纳知道。

Their absorbing essay details how this is all a part of our evolutionary past.

他们引人入胜的文章详细介绍了这一切是如何成为我们进化历史的一部分的。

A morbid fascination with danger is widespread amongst all animals—we inspect threats to know how to face them in the future.

对危险的病态迷恋在所有动物中普遍存在——我们检查威胁以了解未来如何面对它们。

I was subconsciously rehearsing for when a real witch came to whisk me away.

我正在潜意识地预演，等待一个真正的女巫来把我带走。

(Spoiler: she’d get me.) The modern decline in risky play has even led to increased anxiety in children.

（剧透：她会抓住我的。）现代冒险游戏的减少甚至导致了儿童焦虑的增加。

Full of such intriguing facts, Aktipis and Scrivner’s exploration into the psychology behind the scare will keep you on your toes—and inspire you to go out for some proper frights this Halloween weekend.

阿克蒂皮斯和斯克里夫纳对恐惧背后心理的探索充满了这些有趣的事实，会让你保持警惕，并激励你在这个万圣节周末出去体验一些真正的惊吓。

—CW

—CW

## — November —

## — 十一月 —

## San Francisco’s 24-Hour Diner Stops the Cosmic Clock

## 旧金山 24 小时餐厅停止了宇宙钟

Chris Colin | Alta Online | September 25, 2023 | 3,736 words

克里斯·科林 |阿尔塔在线| 2023 年 9 月 25 日 | 3,736 字

I did not expect a feature on an iconic restaurant to start out in a “small potato-farming village in the Arcadia region of Greece’s Peloponnese.” But then again, this—like many stories of the American dream—starts out somewhere else.

我没想到一家标志性餐厅的专题报道会从“希腊伯罗奔尼撒半岛阿卡迪亚地区的一个土豆种植小村庄”开始。但话又说回来，就像许多美国梦的故事一样，这也是从其他地方开始的。

For Alta Online, Chris Colin introduces us to proprietors George and Nina Giavris, but this profile focuses on the Silver Crest Donut Shop, a 24-hour diner they bought in 1970 that has been open every moment since, where the “new gal” has 30+ years on the job as a waitress.

在 Alta Online 中，Chris Colin 向我们介绍了店主 George 和 Nina Giavris，但本文的重点是 Silver Crest Donut Shop，这是他们在 1970 年买下的一家 24 小时营业的餐馆，此后一直营业，这位“新女孩”已经在这家店担任了 30 多年的女服务员。

Time has stood still at the Silver Crest, and Colin lovingly documents the artifacts of the past that make up the diner’s interior.

时间在银冠餐厅静止了，科林充满爱意地记录着过去构成餐厅内部的文物。

What’s a little more difficult to capture—and what Colin does best here—is highlight the intangible: the je ne sais quoi of the atmosphere that, along with George, Nina, and the Silver Crest, is the fourth character in this piece.

更难捕捉的是——科林在这里最擅长的——是突出无形的：气氛中难以言表的气氛，与乔治、尼娜和银冠一起，是这部作品中的第四个角色。

“You could do worse than to age as the Silver Crest ages—no struggle, full acceptance,” writes Colin.

“你可以做的比随着银冠年龄的增长而变老更糟糕——没有挣扎，完全接受，”科林写道。

“Once again, I find the Silver Crest a reprieve from something.

“我再一次发现银冠可以暂时缓解一些事情。

Outside those doors, San Francisco teeters, democracy teeters, the ice caps teeter, sense itself teeters.

在这些门外，旧金山摇摇欲坠，民主摇摇欲坠，冰盖摇摇欲坠，感觉自己摇摇欲坠。

.

。

.

。

.

。

But here there’s no room for nonsense.

但这里没有废话的余地。

You order your food, you eat your food.” With this piece, you might come for the food, but you’ll stay for the feeling.

你点你的食物，你吃你的食物。”有了这件作品，你可能是为了食物而来，但你会为了感觉而留下来。

—KS

—KS

## Bonefishing Off Bimini With Bobby Knight

## 与 Bobby Knight 一起在比米尼岛捕鱼

Kevin Koenig | GQ Magazine | November 7, 2023 | 6,248 words

凯文·柯尼格 | 《GQ》杂志 | 2023 年 11 月 7 日 | 6,248 字

I spent this past weekend in the college town where I grew up.

上周末我在我长大的大学城度过了。

This college town also happens to be where legendary basketball coach Bob Knight cemented his complicated legacy.

这个大学城也恰好是传奇篮球教练鲍勃·奈特巩固其复杂遗产的地方。

(Yes, I was at the game where he threw the chair.) Through three national championships and more wins than any college coach at the time, he loomed over the place like a god—a temperamental, wrathful god, but a god all the same.

（是的，我在现场观看了他扔椅子的比赛。）通过三个全国冠军和比当时任何大学教练更多的胜利，他像神一样笼罩在这个地方——一个喜怒无常、愤怒的神，但仍然是一个神。

After Knight died last week, a deluge of remembrances followed.

奈特上周去世后，随之而来的是大量的纪念活动。

To a one, they celebrated the man’s accomplishments and acknowledged his flaws.

对于其中一个人来说，他们庆祝这个人的成就并承认他的缺点。

Yet none of them came close to capturing him the way Kevin Koenig’s 2015 profile in Angler’s Journal did.

然而，没有人能像凯文·科尼格 (Kevin Koenig) 2015 年在钓鱼者杂志上发表的简介那样捕捉到他的身影。

Three days with Knight fishing in the Bahamas.

与奈特一起在巴哈马钓鱼三天。

Three days of witnessing his locker-room joviality giving way to a tempest.

三天来，他目睹了更衣室里的欢乐变成了暴风雨。

Three days of conversation and combat, drama and détente.

三天的对话和战斗、戏剧和缓和。

It’s a portrait that feels complete, and a portrait I never thought I’d read.

这是一幅感觉完整的肖像，也是一幅我从未想过会读过的肖像。

I missed it the first time around; thankfully, GQ reprinted it this week, with a foreword from Koenig unpacking the aftermath of his warts-and-all approach.

我第一次就错过了；值得庆幸的是，《GQ》本周重印了这篇文章，柯尼格在前言中揭示了他的彻底做法所带来的后果。

If you love sports, it’s a can’t-miss.

如果你热爱运动，那绝对不能错过。

Even if you don’t, it’s still mandatory reading.

即使你不这样做，它仍然是必读的。

Rarely these days do profiles steep you in a sense of place, but Koenig’s bucks that trend.

如今，个人资料很少能让你有一种地方感，但 Koenig 的作品却打破了这一趋势。

You’ll feel the spray in your face, the sun on your arms—and in the many moments where Koenig’s questions encounter Knight’s volatility, the burn of shame on your neck.

你会感觉到水花打在你的脸上，阳光照在你的手臂上——在科尼格的问题遇到奈特的反复无常的许多时刻，羞耻感在你的脖子上燃烧。

—PR

——公关

## Days of the Jackal

## 豺狼的日子

Alex Blasdel | The Guardian | November 9, 2023 | 7,941 words

亚历克斯·布拉斯德尔 |卫报| 2023 年 11 月 9 日 | 7,941 字

Reading this profile of Andrew Wylie, the most powerful agent in book publishing and apparently one of the most odious people alive, is like eating several Big Macs: an experience so delicious you don’t mind that it leaves you queasy when it’s over.

阅读安德鲁·怀利（Andrew Wylie）的这篇简介，安德鲁·怀利是图书出版界最有权势的代理人，显然也是世上最可恶的人之一，就像吃了几块巨无霸：一种如此美味的体验，你不介意，但吃完后却让你感到恶心。

The piece’s astounding anecdotes about a man whose life is as glamorous, and legacy as enormous, as his ego is hideous beg to be binged.

这篇文章讲述了一个男人的惊人轶事，他的生活同样迷人，遗产同样巨大，但他的自我却是丑陋的，令人着迷。

Wylie, who is in the twilight of his career, is the kind of person who said of his favorite chain restaurant for weekday lunches, “You feel right next door to extreme poverty when you eat at Joe and the Juice, which is a comfortable place to be.” Wylie is also the kind of person who used the following words to describe his desire to dominate the Chinese publishing market: “We need to roll out the tanks….

怀利正处于职业生涯的暮年，他在谈到自己最喜欢的平日午餐连锁餐厅时说：“当你在 Joe and the Juice 吃饭时，你会感觉自己就在赤贫附近，这是一个舒适的地方。”怀利也是这样的人，他用下面的话来描述他想要统治中国出版市场的愿望：“我们需要推出坦克……。

We need a Tiananmen Square!” I tore through this profile and was soon texting lines from it to friends, gleeful with horror and liberal in my emoji deployment.

我们需要天安门广场！”我翻阅了这份个人资料，很快就用它给朋友们发短信，我的表情符号部署中充满了恐惧和自由。

Yes, readers, I was lovin’ it.

是的，读者们，我很喜欢它。

—SD

—SD

## Everybody Knows Flo From Progressive.

## 每个人都知道 Flo 来自 Progressive。

Who Is Stephanie Courtney?

斯蒂芬妮·考特尼是谁？

Caity Weaver | The New York Times Magazine | November 25, 2023 | 4,690 words

凯蒂·韦弗 |纽约时报杂志 | 2023 年 11 月 25 日 | 4,690 字

I always feel just a twinge of guilt recommending a story that has already become The Thing Everybody Read This Week.

推荐一个已经成为本周每个人都会读的故事的故事时，我总是感到一阵内疚。

In my defense, though, I read the story before This Week had even officially begun, and immediately knew that it would be my Top 5 pick.

不过，我得辩解一下，我在《本周》正式开始之前就读了这个故事，并立即知道这将是我的前 5 名选择。

Also in my defense, the first line is perfect.

同样在我看来，第一行是完美的。

“One needn’t eat Tostitos Hint of Lime Flavored Triangles to survive; advertising’s object is to muddle this truth.” Why is this perfect?

“人们不必为了生存而吃托斯蒂托斯柠檬味三角片；广告的目的就是混淆这个事实。”为什么这是完美的？

Well, because it tells you everything you need to know about what the story will be about, and what this story will be.

嗯，因为它告诉了你需要知道的一切，关于故事的内容，以及这个故事的内容。

It will be funny (as Caity Weaver’s profiles always are).

这会很有趣（就像凯蒂·韦弗的个人资料一样）。

It will be clear-eyed.

就会看得清清楚楚。

It will be armed with some well-earned cynicism about how companies—or, rather, their vaporous and often uncanny incarnations known as “brands”—operate.

它将对公司——或者更确切地说，他们被称为“品牌”的虚无缥缈且常常不可思议的化身——的运作方式抱有一些当之无愧的愤世嫉俗。

The one thing this sentence doesn’t quite prepare you for is how generous the story is.

这句话没有让你做好准备的一件事是这个故事有多么慷慨。

How generous its subject is.

它的主题是多么慷慨。

And how generously you might think about things thereafter.

以及此后你可能会多么慷慨地思考事情。

We all have aspirations.

我们都有志向。

Sometimes our life realizes those aspirations, sometimes it doesn’t.

有时我们的生活会实现这些愿望，有时却不会。

But sometimes even when it doesn’t, it does.

但有时即使没有，但确实如此。

Stephanie Courtney, the comic actor once bent on getting to Saturday Night Live and now in firm possession of a far more fulfilling gig, knows that better than anyone.

喜剧演员史蒂芬妮·考特尼 (Stephanie Courtney) 曾经一心想要登上《周六夜现场》，现在她已经拥有了一份更令人满意的演出，她比任何人都更清楚这一点。

—PR

——公关

## — December —

## — 十二月 —

## One Swedish Zoo, Seven Escaped Chimpanzees

## 一个瑞典动物园，七只逃脱的黑猩猩

Imogen West-Knights | The Guardian | December 5, 2023 | 7,400 words

伊莫金·韦斯特-骑士 | 伊莫金·韦斯特-骑士卫报| 2023 年 12 月 5 日 | 7,400 字

You know right from the start that this one’s going to break your heart.

你从一开始就知道这会让你心碎。

But you carry on and brace yourself, because you can also tell, from the opening line, that Imogen West-Knights will deliver a riveting piece of reporting.

但你继续前进并做好准备，因为你也可以从开场白中看出，伊莫金·韦斯特·奈茨将发表一篇引人入胜的报道。

Last December, the beloved chimpanzees in Sweden’s Furuvik Zoo escaped their enclosure.

去年 12 月，瑞典福鲁维克动物园里可爱的黑猩猩逃离了围栏。

It took the zoo staff and keepers 72 hours to contain them to their ape house, and West-Knights reconstructs the ordeal with deft pacing and great detail.

动物园工作人员和饲养员花了 72 个小时才将它们控制在猿舍里，韦斯特·奈特以巧妙的节奏和详尽的细节重现了这一痛苦经历。

As the hours pass, the zoo must weigh the safety of the zookeepers and public at large against that of the chimps, and the situation grows more distressing.

随着时间的流逝，动物园必须权衡动物园管理员和广大公众的安全与黑猩猩的安全，情况变得更加令人痛苦。

The photography in the piece—snowy landscapes of the zoo’s grounds that look more sinister than serene—add to the unsettling nature of the story, as you can’t help but imagine these great apes loose in the cold, some in their final moments.

作品中的摄影——动物园场地上的雪景看起来比宁静更险恶——增加了故事的令人不安的性质，因为你不禁想象这些类人猿在寒冷中自由活动，其中一些正处于生命的最后时刻。

(You also wonder: why are we subjecting these animals to a place that’s too cold for them six months out of the year?) This is a sad read, but it sparks an important conversation around zoo safety protocols, climate-specific zoos, and whether zoos should even exist at all.

（你也会想知道：为什么我们要让这些动物在一年中的六个月里待在一个对它们来说太冷的地方？）这是一本悲伤的读物，但它引发了一场围绕动物园安全协议、针对特定气候的动物园以及动物园是否应该存在的重要对话。

—CLR

—CLR

## My Favorite Restaurant Served Gas

## 我最喜欢的提供燃气的餐厅

Kiese Laymon | The Bitter Southerner | December 6, 2023 | 1,914 words

基泽·雷蒙 |苦涩的南方人 | 2023 年 12 月 6 日 | 1,914 字

The Bitter Southerner just published Kate Medley’s Thank You Please Come Again: How Gas Stations Feed & Fuel the American South, a “photographic road trip” documenting service stations, convenience stores, and pit stops across the South.

《苦涩南方人》刚刚出版了凯特·梅德利 (Kate Medley) 的《谢谢你再来一次：加油站如何为美国南部提供食物和燃料》，这是一次“摄影公路旅行”，记录了整个南部的加油站、便利店和加油站。

This essay by Kiese Laymon is the book’s foreword.

Kiese Laymon 的这篇文章是本书的前言。

At one point I seriously considered writing a recommendation for this piece that simply read: “Kiese Laymon.

有一次，我认真考虑为这篇文章写一篇推荐，内容很简单：“Kiese Laymon。

That’s all you need to know.” But that would have robbed me of the opportunity to reread and savor the bounty of this essay.

这就是你需要知道的全部。”但这会让我失去重读和品味这篇文章的机会。

If you do not know Laymon’s work, do yourself a favor and read this piece.

如果您不了解雷蒙的作品，请帮自己一个忙，阅读这篇文章。

Here, he takes us back to his childhood in 1984 and the Friday nights spent with his grandmama and her boyfriend Ofa D at Jr. Food Mart: a diner, convenience store, and gas station in Forest, Mississippi.

在这里，他带我们回到 1984 年的童年，以及与祖母和她的男友 Ofa D 在 Jr. Food Mart 度过的周五晚上：Jr. Food Mart 是密西西比州福里斯特的一家小餐馆、便利店和加油站。

“I loved everything about where we were going,” he writes.

“我喜欢我们要去的地方的一切，”他写道。

“I loved the smell of friedness.

“我喜欢油炸的味道。

I loved the way the red popped in the sign.

我喜欢红色在标志上突显的方式。

I loved how the yellow flirted with the red.

我喜欢黄色与红色的调情。

I loved that the name of the restaurant started with Jr. instead of ending in Jr. Like, Food Mart Jr.” It’s a captivating read about anticipation, finding joy in a place you might not expect, and the long hours worked at minimum wage that made that joy possible.

我喜欢餐厅的名字以 Jr. 开头，而不是以 Jr. 结尾。就像 Food Mart Jr. 一样。”这是一本引人入胜的读物，讲述了期待，在你意想不到的地方找到快乐，以及以最低工资长时间工作使这种快乐成为可能。

At Jr. Food Mart, Laymon, his grandmama, and Ofa D got oh so much more than fried fish and ‘tato logs for a yummy Friday night supper; they got a hefty helping of love and care and history served up to go.

在 Jr. Food Mart，Laymon、他的奶奶和 Ofa D 得到的不仅仅是炸鱼和土豆条作为周五晚上的美味晚餐；还有更多的东西。他们得到了爱和关怀的大力帮助，并为他们留下了历史。

—KS

—KS

## What Are Farm Animals Thinking?

## 农场动物在想什么？

David Grimm | Science | December 7, 2023 | 3,694 words

大卫·格林 |科学| 2023 年 12 月 7 日 | 3,694 字

A couple of years ago, my downstairs neighbors kept chickens.

几年前，我楼下的邻居养了鸡。

(Finger, Tender, and Nugget.

（手指、嫩肉和金块。

I take no responsibility for the names.) These sassy ladies realized that I was a soft touch, and every day merrily hopped up the stairs to my deck to peer in through the patio door, awaiting kitchen scraps.

我对这些名字不承担任何责任。）这些时髦的女士意识到我是一个温柔的人，每天都高兴地跳上楼梯到我的甲板上，从露台门往里看，等待厨房残渣。

I soon noticed that when I got up and opened my bedroom curtains, the chickens peered up from the yard.

我很快就注意到，当我起身打开卧室窗帘时，鸡们从院子里探出头来。

Curtains open, they would race up the stairs: the café was in business.

窗帘拉开，他们会跑上楼梯：咖啡馆还在营业。

These girls were so on the ball that I have not eaten a chicken since we became acquainted.

这些女孩太机灵了，自从我们认识以来我还没吃过鸡。

It’s little wonder, then, that I pounced on this investigation into research on the complexity of thinking in farm animals, an area I have mused on since the food-savvy chickens but that is often ignored by scientists.

因此，毫不奇怪，我突然对农场动物思维的复杂性进行了这项研究，自从对食物敏感的鸡以来我就一直在思考这个领域，但它经常被科学家忽视。

David Grimm bravely faces the “cacophony of bleats, groans, and retching wails” and “sour miasma of pig excrement” to enter the Research Institute for Farm Animal Biology (FBN) and learn about the questions being asked there, such as do cows have friends?

大卫·格林勇敢地面对“刺耳的咩咩叫声、呻吟声、干呕声”和“猪粪的酸味”，走进农场动物生物学研究所（FBN），了解那里提出的问题，比如牛有朋友吗？

(Considering that scientists have potty-trained cows here, I think they probably do.) Grimm keeps the tone light—sliding in a few quips between the science—but still provides a comprehensive overview of the work.

（考虑到科学家们在这里训练了如厕的奶牛，我认为他们可能会这样做。）格林保持着轻松的语气——在科学之间插入了一些俏皮话——但仍然提供了对这项工作的全面概述。

With a staggering 78 billion farm animals on Earth, it is time we gave them more thought.

地球上有 780 亿只农场动物，我们是时候更多地考虑它们了。

—CW

—CW

You can also browse all of our year-end collections since 2011 in one place.

您还可以在一处浏览我们自 2011 年以来的所有年终系列。