At Tampa Bay farm-to-table restaurants, you’re being fed fiction

First in a series | April 13, 2016 By LAURA REILEY Times Food Critic

系列中的第一篇 | 2016 年 4 月 13 日 作者：LAURA REILEY 时代美食评论家

The restaurant’s chalkboard makes claims as you enter from the valet parking lot.

当您从代客停车场进入餐厅时，黑板上会注明您的要求。

At the hostess stand, a cheery board reads, “Welcome to local, farm-fresh Boca.”

在女主人的看台上，一块欢快的牌子上写着：“欢迎来到当地农场新鲜的博卡。”

Brown butcher paper tops tables and lettuces grow along a wooden wall.

桌子上铺着棕色的屠夫纸，生菜沿着木墙生长。

In a small market case, I see canned goods from here and produce from somewhere.

在一个小市场的情况下，我看到这里的罐头食品和其他地方的产品。

Check the small print: blackberries from Mexico and blueberries from California.

检查小字：来自墨西哥的黑莓和来自加利福尼亚的蓝莓。

With the tagline “Local, simple and honest,” Boca Kitchen Bar Market was among the first wave of farm-to-table restaurants in Tampa Bay to make the assertion “we use local products whenever possible.” I’ve reviewed the food.

博卡厨房酒吧市场 (Boca Kitchen Bar Market) 的口号是“本地、简单、诚实”，是坦帕湾第一波从农场到餐桌的餐厅之一，它宣称“我们尽可能使用当地产品”。我已经评论过这里的食物。

My own words are right there on their website: “local, thoughtful and, most importantly, delicious.”

我自己的话就在他们的网站上：“本地化、周到，最重要的是，美味。”

It’s not just Boca.

不仅仅是博卡。

At Pelagia Trattoria at International Plaza, the “Florida blue crab” comes from the Indian Ocean.

在国际广场的 Pelagia Trattoria，“佛罗里达蓝蟹”来自印度洋。

Mermaid Tavern in Seminole Heights shouts “Death to Pretenders” on its menu, but pretends cheese curds are homemade and shrimp are from Florida.

塞米诺尔高地的美人鱼酒馆在菜单上大喊“伪装者去死”，但假装奶酪凝乳是自制的，虾来自佛罗里达。

At Maritana Grille at the Loews Don CeSar, chefs claim to get pork from a farmer who doesn’t sell to them.

在 Loews Don CeSar 餐厅的 Maritana Grille，厨师们声称他们从不卖给他们的农民那里获取猪肉。

This is a story we are all being fed.

这是一个我们都在被灌输的故事。

A story about overalls, rich soil and John Deere tractors scattering broods of busy chickens.

一个关于工作服、肥沃的土壤和约翰迪尔拖拉机驱散忙碌的小鸡的故事。

A story about healthy animals living happy lives, heirloom tomatoes hanging heavy and earnest artisans rolling wheels of cheese into aging caves nearby.

这是一个关于健康动物过着幸福生活的故事，传家宝西红柿悬挂在沉重而认真的工匠们手中，将奶酪轮滚入附近老化的洞穴中。

More often than not, those things are fairy tales.

通常，这些事情都是童话故事。

A long list of Tampa Bay restaurants are willing to capitalize on our hunger for the story.

坦帕湾的一长串餐厅愿意利用我们对这个故事的渴望。

People want “local,” and they’re willing to pay.

人们想要“本地化”并且愿意付费。

Local promises food that is fresher and tastes better; it means better food safety; it yields a smaller carbon footprint while preserving genetic diversity; it builds community.

当地承诺食物更新鲜、味道更好；这意味着更好的食品安全；它产生更小的碳足迹，同时保留遗传多样性；它建立社区。

“They say if you spend your money locally, it gets multiplied three times,” said Michael Novilla, who owns Nova 535 event space in St. Petersburg and tries to buy local, from soup to soap.

“他们说，如果你把钱花在当地，钱就会成三倍，”在圣彼得堡拥有 Nova 535 活动空间的迈克尔·诺维拉 (Michael Novilla) 说，他尝试购买当地产品，从汤到肥皂，一应俱全。

He was speaking of the local multiplier effect, a term coined in the 1930s by economist John Maynard Keynes.

他谈到的是局部乘数效应，这是经济学家约翰·梅纳德·凯恩斯 (John Maynard Keynes) 在 20 世纪 30 年代创造的术语。

And part of Novilla’s motivation is health, finding clean sources for the food he eats.

诺维拉的部分动机是健康，寻找清洁的食物来源。

So if he found out markets and restaurants he loved were playing fast and loose with the truth?

那么，如果他发现他喜欢的市场和餐馆正在与事实作对呢？

“It would be like finding out your husband was married to someone else the whole time.”

“这就像发现你的丈夫一直和别人结婚一样。”

The Mill in St. Petersburg opened last summer to instant acclaim.

圣彼得堡的工厂于去年夏天开业，立即受到好评。

With walls that look like tooled leather saddles, a men’s room sink inset in a tractor tire and chandeliers made of wagon wheels and mason jars, it’s what the designer called “farmhouse industrial chic.” Sandwiches run around $13 at lunch, and at dinner, sous vide fried chicken hits $24.

墙壁看起来像经过加工的皮革马鞍，男洗手间水槽嵌在拖拉机轮胎中，枝形吊灯由马车车轮和玻璃瓶制成，这就是设计师所说的“农舍工业时尚”。午餐三明治售价约为 13 美元，晚餐时真空低温烹调炸鸡售价为 24 美元。

We gave it three stars out of four, and in December it was awarded best new restaurant in Florida Trend ’s Golden Spoon awards.

我们给它三颗星（满分四颗星），并于 12 月荣获佛罗里达趋势金汤匙奖最佳新餐厅奖。

Servers are likely to start proceedings with a mini-disquisition on how all the food comes from within a couple hundred miles of the restaurant (mileage may vary).

服务员可能会先进行一个小型调查，了解所有食物是如何来自餐厅几百英里范围内的（里程可能会有所不同）。

“Everybody’s spiel is a little different,” said chef-owner Ted Dorsey.

“每个人的说法都有点不同，”厨师兼老板特德·多尔西 (Ted Dorsey) 说。

“But I say a 250-mile radius.”

– 但我说的是 250 英里的半径。 –

Dorsey said he buys pork from a small Tallahassee farm through food supplier Master Purveyors.

多西说，他通过食品供应商 Master Purveyors 从塔拉哈西的一个小农场购买猪肉。

But Master Purveyors said it doesn’t sell pork from Tallahassee.

但 Master Purveyors 表示，它不销售来自塔拉哈西的猪肉。

Dorsey said he uses quail from Magnolia Farms in Lake City.

多尔西说，他使用来自莱克城木兰农场的鹌鹑。

Master Purveyors said the quail is from Wyoming.

供应商大师说，这只鹌鹑来自怀俄明州。

Dorsey said he buys dairy from Dakin Dairy Farms in Myakka through Weyand Food Distributors.

多尔西说，他通过韦安德食品分销商从米亚卡的达金奶牛场购买乳制品。

Weyand said it doesn’t distribute Dakin.

Weyand 表示，它不分发 Dakin。

Dorsey said he gets local produce from Suncoast Food Alliance and Local Roots.

多尔西说，他从阳光海岸食品联盟 (Suncoast Food Alliance) 和当地根源 (Local Roots) 购买当地农产品。

Both said they have not sold to The Mill.

两人均表示尚未将其出售给The Mill。

He named three seafood suppliers.

他点名了三个海鲜供应商。

Two checked out, but a third, Whitney and Son, said they had not sold to The Mill yet.

其中两人退房了，但第三家——Whitney and Son——表示他们还没有把房子卖给The Mill。

They hope to in the future.

他们希望将来能做到。

I called him on all this.

我就这一切给他打电话。

He said he needed to speak with his chef, Zach West, and get back to us.

他说他需要和他的厨师扎克·韦斯特谈谈，然后再回复我们。

The results didn’t get any closer: farmed trout from Idaho, beef from Colorado, yellowfin tuna off the northern East Coast.

结果并没有变得更接近：来自爱达荷州的养殖鳟鱼、来自科罗拉多州的牛肉、来自东海岸北部的黄鳍金枪鱼。

“Local Florida proteins are not quality,” Dorsey explained.

“佛罗里达州当地的蛋白质品质不佳，”多尔西解释道。

But what about the mileage claims?

但是里程索赔呢？

The food supply chain is so vast and so complicated.

食品供应链如此庞大且复杂。

It has yielded extra-virgin olive oil that is actually colored sunflower oil, Parmesan cheese bulked up with wood pulp, and a horsemeat scandal that, for a while, rendered Ikea outings Swedish meatball-free.

它生产了实际上是彩色葵花籽油的特级初榨橄榄油、用木浆填充的帕尔马干酪，以及一段时间导致宜家在瑞典没有肉丸的马肉丑闻。

Everywhere you look, you see the claims: “sustainable,” “naturally raised,” “organic,” “non-GMO,” “fair trade,” “responsibly grown.” Restaurants have reached new levels of hyperbole.

随处可见这样的宣传：“可持续”、“自然生长”、“有机”、“非转基因”、“公平贸易”、“负责任地种植”。餐馆的夸张程度达到了新的水平。

What makes buying food different from other forms of commerce is this: It’s a trust-based system.

购买食品与其他形式的商业的不同之处在于：它是一个基于信任的系统。

How do you know the Dover sole on your plate is Dover sole?

你怎么知道你盘子里的多佛鳎鱼就是多佛鳎鱼？

Only that the restaurateur said so.

只是餐厅老板这么说。

And how can you be sure the strawberries your toddler is gobbling are free of pesticides?

您如何确定您的孩子正在吃的草莓不含农药？

Only because the vendor at the farmers market said so.

只是因为农贸市场的摊贩这么说。

Your purchases are unverifiable unless you drive to that farm or track back through a restaurant’s distributors and ask for invoices.

除非您开车前往该农场或通过餐厅的分销商追踪并索要发票，否则您的购买是无法验证的。

For several months, I sifted through menus from every restaurant I’ve reviewed since the farm-to-table trend started.

几个月来，我仔细筛选了自从“从农场到餐桌”趋势开始以来我所评论过的每家餐厅的菜单。

Of 239 restaurants still in business, 54 were making claims about the provenance of their ingredients.

在 239 家仍在营业的餐厅中，有 54 家声称其食材的来源。

For fish claims that seemed suspicious, I kept zip-top baggies in my purse and tucked away samples.

对于看起来可疑的鱼类声称，我在钱包里放了一个带拉链的袋子，并把样品藏起来。

The Times had them DNA tested by scientists at the University of South Florida.

《泰晤士报》让南佛罗里达大学的科学家对他们进行了 DNA 检测。

I called producers and vendors.

我打电话给生产商和供应商。

I visited farms.

我参观了农场。

My conclusion?

我的结论是？

Just about everyone tells tales.

几乎每个人都会讲故事。

Sometimes they are whoppers, sometimes they are fibs borne of negligence or ignorance, and sometimes they are nearly harmless omissions or “greenwashing.”

有时它们是弥天大谎，有时是由于疏忽或无知而编造的谎言，有时它们几乎是无害的遗漏或“绿色清洗”。

I have been a restaurant critic since 1991 and have always known there are fraudulent menu claims.

我自 1991 年以来一直是一名餐厅评论家，一直都知道存在欺诈性的菜单声明。

This “housemade dessert” is Sysco’s Fudgy Wudgy chocolate layer cake I’ve eaten a dozen times.

这款“自制甜点”是 Sysco 的 Fudgy Wudgy 巧克力夹心蛋糕，我已经吃过十几次了。

That “fresh snapper” has done serious freezer time.

那条“新鲜鲷鱼”已经过了很长时间的冷冻期。

I know about the St. Petersburg restaurant that refilled Evian bottles with tap, the fancy Tampa restaurant where the “house wine” is a dump of open bottles on their last legs.

我知道圣彼得堡的一家餐厅用水龙头重新装满依云酒瓶，还有一家高档的坦帕餐厅，那里的“自酿葡萄酒”是一堆打开的瓶子。

It was around 2012 that Tampa Bay menus sprouted the sentence “we source locally” near the admonition about consuming raw or undercooked meats.

2012 年左右，坦帕湾的菜单上出现了这样一句话：“我们在当地采购”，旁边是关于食用生肉或未煮熟的肉类的告诫。

Fiction started to seem like the daily special.

小说开始看起来像是每日特刊。

Most restaurants buy food from one of a small handful of distributors who source products in bulk at the best price from around the world.

大多数餐馆都从少数经销商那里购买食品，这些经销商以最优惠的价格从世界各地大量采购产品。

The national biggies are Sysco and US Foods.

全国性的巨头是 Sysco 和 US Foods。

Smaller Florida-based companies include Cheney Brothers and Weyand.

佛罗里达州的小型公司包括切尼兄弟 (Cheney Brothers) 和韦安德 (Weyand)。

Then there are specialty distributors such as Master Purveyors in Tampa or Culinary Classics in Orlando.

还有专业经销商，例如坦帕的 Master Purveyors 或奥兰多的 Culinary Classics。

Most restaurants do not have the time or wherewithal to deal directly with farmers and producers; most farmers and producers don’t have the infrastructure to do their own sales, marketing and delivery.

大多数餐馆没有时间或资金直接与农民和生产者打交道；大多数农民和生产者没有基础设施来进行自己的销售、营销和交付。

Mermaid Tavern has been a Seminole Heights draw for craft beer since it opened in 2011.

Mermaid Tavern 自 2011 年开业以来一直是塞米诺尔高地精酿啤酒的一大亮点。

In 2015, Gary Moran, chef-owner of the defunct restaurant Wimauma, took over in the kitchen at the restaurant owned by Becky Flanders and Lux DeVoid, tweaking an edgy, independent-minded menu.

2015 年，已停业的 Wimauma 餐厅的主厨兼老板加里·莫兰 (Gary Moran) 接管了贝基·弗兰德斯 (Becky Flanders) 和勒克斯·德沃德 (Lux DeVoid) 拥有的餐厅的厨房，调整了前卫、独立思想的菜单。

The restaurant’s tagline is “Death to Pretenders,” and one of the appetizers is the “F**k Monsanto Salad.” Monsanto, if you need a reminder, has come under fire for innovations such as Agent Orange, Roundup and genetically modified “frankenseeds.”

这家餐厅的口号是“伪装者去死”，开胃菜之一是“去他妈的孟山都沙拉。”如果你需要提醒一下，孟山都因橙剂、农达和转基因“弗兰肯种子”等创新而受到猛烈攻击。

The menu reads: This menu is free of hormones, antibiotics, chemical additives, genetic modification, and virtually from scratch.

菜单上写着：这个菜单不含激素、抗生素、化学添加剂、基因改造，而且几乎是从头开始。

We fry in organic coconut oil and source local distributors, farmers, brewers and family wineries … Our fish is fresh from Florida or sustainable/wild fisheries.

我们用有机椰子油煎炸，并向当地经销商、农民、酿酒商和家庭酿酒厂采购……我们的鱼是来自佛罗里达州或可持续/野生渔业的新鲜鱼。

“Yes,” said the bartender, “everything is made in house from scratch.”

“是的，”调酒师说，“所有东西都是自制的。”

Only it’s not.

但事实并非如此。

Those cheese curds arrive in a box.

这些奶酪凝乳装在一个盒子里。

The fish and chips, which the menu says uses wild Alaskan pollock, are made from frozen Chinese pollock treated with sodium tripolyphosphate, a common preservative.

菜单上说的炸鱼薯条是用野生阿拉斯加狭鳕鱼制成的，是用冷冻的中国狭鳕鱼制成的，并用三聚磷酸钠（一种常见的防腐剂）处理过。

And although the menu says its shrimp are Florida wild caught, they are actually farm-raised in India , Preference Brand from Gulf Coast Seafood.

尽管菜单上写着它的虾是佛罗里达州野生捕获的，但它们实际上是在印度农场饲养的，是墨西哥湾沿岸海鲜公司的首选品牌。

“We try to do local and sustainable as much as possible, but it’s not 100 percent,” he said.

“我们尝试尽可能做到本地化和可持续发展，但这并不是 100%，”他说。

“For the price point we’re trying to sell items, it’s just not possible.”

“就我们试图销售的商品的价格而言，这是不可能的。”

And that F**k Monsanto Salad?

还有那个该死的孟山都沙拉？

Moran said he buys his produce at wholesaler Sanwa on Hillsborough Avenue.

莫兰说，他在希尔斯伯勒大道的批发商 Sanwa 购买农产品。

According to Sanwa produce buyer Beatrice Reyes, while produce is labeled by country of origin, it would not be labeled as “local” or “non-GMO.” Unless you’re buying from Sanwa’s small organic section, there’s no way to assure you’re getting non-GMO.

据 Sanwa 农产品采购商 Beatrice Reyes 称，虽然农产品按原产国贴有标签，但不会贴上“本地”或“非转基因”标签。除非您从 Sanwa 的小型有机产品专区购买，否则无法确保您购买的是非转基因农产品。

Even some certified organic foods have been found to contain GMOs.

甚至一些经过认证的有机食品也被发现含有转基因生物。

Could some of the ingredients in the salad be grown from Monsanto seed?

沙拉中的某些成分可能是用孟山都种子种植的吗？

“It’s really hard to find non-GMO produce,” Moran said.

“找到非转基因产品真的很难，”莫兰说。

Moran followed up via email, claiming to also shop at farmers markets and providing a list of ingredients he believes to be non-GMO.

莫兰通过电子邮件跟进，声称也在农贸市场购物，并提供了他认为非转基因成分的清单。

Government oversight regarding the word “local” is nearly non-existent.

政府对“本地”一词的监管几乎不存在。

In many cases, farmers police things themselves.

在许多情况下，农民自己负责管理事情。

Jim Wood pasture-raises Hereford pigs at his Palmetto Creek Farms in Avon Park.

吉姆·伍德 (Jim Wood) 在埃文公园 (Avon Park) 的 Palmetto Creek 农场饲养赫里福德猪。

He’s so frustrated with restaurants lying about using his pork that his invoices now say, “You cannot use my name unless you reference the line item sold.” That includes chalkboards.

他对餐馆在使用他的猪肉方面撒谎感到非常沮丧，以至于他的发票上现在写着：“除非你提到所售的商品，否则你不能使用我的名字。”其中包括黑板。

“Chefs make a lot more money by using my name and selling someone else’s product,” he said.

“厨师通过使用我的名字并销售别人的产品来赚更多的钱，”他说。

“There are some chefs who respect us and respect our brand, and others who use it for monetary gain without compensating us.

– 有些厨师尊重我们并尊重我们的品牌，而另一些厨师则利用它来获取金钱而不补偿我们。

“I don’t think Adam Putnam has a clue what’s going on.”

“我认为 Adam Putnam 不知道发生了什么。”

He was referring to Florida’s two-term Commissioner of Agriculture and likely candidate for governor.

他指的是佛罗里达州两届农业专员和可能的州长候选人。

Putnam oversees Fresh from Florida, a state-run food marketing program with an annual budget just under $10 million.

Putnam 负责管理 Fresh from Florida，这是一项国营食品营销计划，年度预算略低于 1000 万美元。

The program was created to give small producers an avenue to be part of a brand.

该计划旨在为小型生产商提供成为品牌一部分的途径。

Recently, the program has sponsored advertising on an Xfinity Series race car.

最近，该计划赞助了 Xfinity 系列赛车的广告。

In 2013, an On the Menu program was added for restaurants.

2013 年，餐厅增加了“菜单”计划。

Restaurants fill out a two-part application and, once accepted, are able to use the Fresh from Florida logo to identify ingredients grown or produced in the state.

餐厅填写由两部分组成的申请表，一旦被接受，就可以使用“Fresh from Florida”标志来识别该州种植或生产的食材。

Restaurants supply vendor information up front about their sources for Florida-grown products, said Putnam’s press secretary, Aaron Keller.

普特南的新闻秘书亚伦·凯勒 (Aaron Keller) 表示，餐厅会提前向供应商提供有关佛罗里达州种植产品来源的信息。

But otherwise, the program is an honor system.

但除此之外，该计划是一个荣誉制度。

No restaurant has ever been demoted or removed.

没有一家餐厅被降级或移除。

And while the Fresh from Florida logo is supposed to apply to specific ingredients, restaurateurs may slap it on menus, giving the impression that it represents everything.

虽然“来自佛罗里达的新鲜”标志应该适用于特定的食材，但餐馆老板可能会将其贴在菜单上，给人留下它代表一切的印象。

Putnam declined several requests for interviews.

普特南拒绝了多次采访请求。

Keller said the program was never intended to be regulatory and that its aim was to encourage reputable restaurants to source Florida products.

凯勒表示，该计划无意进行监管，其目的是鼓励信誉良好的餐厅采购佛罗里达州的产品。

“Should a restaurant misuse the program or intentionally mislead consumers, that’s a different matter entirely, which we would want to pursue.”

“如果餐厅滥用该计划或故意误导消费者，那就完全是另一回事了，我们希望追究这一点。”

I called Joel Salatin, arguably the country’s most famous farmer, whom you might recognize from the documentary Food, Inc. or from Michael Pollan’s book The Omnivore’s Dilemma .

我给乔尔·萨拉丁打了电话，他可以说是这个国家最著名的农民，你可能会在纪录片《食品公司》或迈克尔·波伦的书《杂食动物的困境》中认出他。

He opined while waiting for a load of manure at his Polyface farm in Virginia.

他在弗吉尼亚州的波利法斯农场等待一车粪便时发表了这样的看法。

“Anybody who trusts the government with our food hasn’t been paying attention very much,” Salatin said.

“任何相信政府为我们提供食物的人都没有给予足够的关注，”萨拉丁说。

“The government’s track record on food is pretty abysmal.”

“政府在食品方面的记录非常糟糕。”

“We’re on the front edge of a “local-food tsunami,” he said.

“我们正处于一场‘本地食品海啸’的前缘，”他说。

And nearly no one is keeping watch.

而且几乎没有人在监视。

For 40,000-some Florida restaurants, 191 inspectors from the state’s Department of Business and Professional Regulation oversee them all for safety, sanitation and — occasionally — lies.

佛罗里达州商业和专业监管部的 191 名检查员对佛罗里达州的 40,000 多家餐厅进行安全、卫生和（偶尔）谎言的监督。

By comparison, Georgia, with about half the population, has 300 inspectors.

相比之下，拥有约一半人口的佐治亚州却有 300 名检查员。

Ohio has 637 for about 22,000 restaurants.

俄亥俄州有 637 家餐厅，约 22,000 家。

In the past two years, Florida inspectors found roughly 750 food misrepresentation violations.

过去两年，佛罗里达州检查人员发现了大约 750 起食品虚假陈述违规行为。

Of them, 123 restaurants were fined, with an average fine for first-time offenders between $150 and $300.

其中，123家餐厅被罚款，初犯平均罚款在150至300美元之间。

Count among the violators Koto Japanese Steak House and Royal Palace Thai in Tampa’s trendy SoHo District, and That’s Amore on Harbour Island.

坦帕时尚 SoHo 区的 Koto Japanese Steak House 和 Royal Palace Thai 以及哈勃岛的 That's Amore 都是违规者。

Places like Tarpon Springs’ now-closed Zante Cafe Neo were repeat offenders for misrepresenting fish.

像塔彭斯普林斯 (Tarpon Springs) 和现已关闭的 Zante Cafe Neo 这样的地方经常因歪曲鱼类而屡屡犯错。

Old-timers like Gulfport’s La Cote Basque were dinged for advertising veal schnitzel dishes but having no veal in sight.

像格尔夫波特的 La Cote Basque 这样的老牌餐馆因在小牛肉炸肉排菜肴广告中却看不到小牛肉而受到指责。

“No packages commercially labeled veal (and) no veal invoices are present (but a) large volume of frozen pork chops and sliced pork” were observed.

“没有观察到包装上贴有商业标签的小牛肉（并且）没有小牛肉发票（但有大量冷冻猪排和猪肉片）”。

Wholesale veal can cost three times as much as pork.

批发小牛肉的价格是猪肉的三倍。

For pork-eschewing Muslims and Jews: Surprise.

对于不吃猪肉的穆斯林和犹太人来说：惊喜。

Of the 95 misrepresentations in Hillsborough and Pinellas counties over the past two years, none had to do with farm-to-table myths.

过去两年，希尔斯伯勒县和皮内拉斯县发生了 95 起虚假陈述，其中没有一起与“从农场到餐桌”的神话有关。

None were because conventional produce was substituted for advertised organic, or because commodity beef was swapped for “grass-fed,” or because “local” greens were really month-old Mexican spring mix.

没有一个是因为传统农产品取代了广告中的有机产品，或者因为商品牛肉被“草饲”取代，或者因为“本地”蔬菜实际上是一个月前的墨西哥春季混合物。

On average, restaurants are inspected twice a year, more if a restaurant has chronic infractions.

平均而言，餐厅每年接受两次检查，如果餐厅长期存在违规行为，则检查次数会更多。

An inspector can’t know any of those things just by peering into a walk-in refrigerator.

检查员仅通过观察步入式冰箱是无法了解这些情况的。

Maritana Grille at the Don CeSar gets the highest Zagat ratings of any restaurant along Pinellas County’s beaches.

Don CeSar 的 Maritana Grille 在皮尼拉斯县海滩上的所有餐厅中获得 Zagat 评级最高。

It’s the top restaurant at the pink palace built at the height of the Jazz Age.

这是建于爵士乐时代鼎盛时期的粉色宫殿中的顶级餐厅。

Entrees can run $28 to $48, and a three-course tasting menu with wine pairings is $95.

主菜价格为 28 至 48 美元，三道菜的品尝菜单（搭配葡萄酒）价格为 95 美元。

In February, Maritana listed Jim Wood’s Palmetto Creek pork on the menu.

二月份，马里塔纳将吉姆·伍德的 Palmetto Creek 猪肉列入菜单。

Wood said that he had not sold to the Don CeSar since the departure of previous chef Gavin Pera.

伍德表示，自从前任主厨加文·佩拉(Gavin Pera)离开后，他就没有将这家餐厅卖给Don CeSar。

Chef Jose Cuarta took over about seven months ago and inherited a menu with a section titled Small Farms.

主厨 Jose Cuarta 大约七个月前接手，继承了一份菜单，其中有一个名为“小农场”的部分。

The menu listed Hammock Hollow squash with heirloom tomato and olives.

菜单上列出了吊床空心南瓜、传家宝番茄和橄榄。

Hammock Hollow, a certified organic farm in Island Grove, Fla., has sold lettuces and tomatoes to fancy hotels such as the Willard in Washington, D.C., for more than 30 years.

Hammock Hollow 是佛罗里达州格罗夫岛的一家经过认证的有机农场，30 多年来一直向华盛顿特区的威拉德酒店等高档酒店出售生菜和西红柿。

Hammock Hollow owner Charlie Andrews hasn’t had squash for months, he said, and is definitely not selling it to Maritana Grille.

Hammock Hollow 的老板查理·安德鲁斯 (Charlie Andrews) 说，他已经好几个月没有吃南瓜了，而且绝对不会把它卖给 Maritana Grille。

Asked about this, Cuarta said, “That should come off the menu.”

当被问及这一点时，库尔塔说：“这应该从菜单上消失。”

Asked about the provenance of the unspecified “small farms” venison, Cuarta said he buys it from Jackman Ranch in Clewiston.

当被问及未具体说明的“小农场”鹿肉的来源时，库尔塔说他是从克莱维斯顿的杰克曼牧场购买的。

Jackman’s Mark Hoegh said that, while he does sell the Don CeSar wagyu filet mignon, he does not sell them venison, because he does not produce venison.

杰克曼的马克·赫格 (Mark Hoegh) 表示，虽然他确实出售唐塞萨尔和牛菲力牛排，但他不向他们出售鹿肉，因为他不生产鹿肉。

And the section’s “Long Island duck”?

那么该部分的“长岛鸭”呢？

It’s actually from Joe Jurgielewicz & Son, a duck farm in Pennsylvania.

它实际上来自宾夕法尼亚州的一家养鸭场 Joe Jurgielewicz & Son。

This matters.

这很重要。

Long Island is an area long noted for producing some of the finest Pekin ducks in the world.

长岛长期以来以出产世界上最好的北京烤鸭而闻名。

With its location at Renaissance Tampa International Plaza Hotel and menu of high-end Italian, Pelagia has been a hangout for Tampa Bay Buccaneers and Rays players and a regular go-to for business travelers.

Pelagia 位于坦帕国际广场万丽酒店内，提供高端意大利菜品，一直是坦帕湾海盗队和光芒队球员的聚会场所，也是商务旅客的常去之地。

Hosting events such as a Florida strawberry tasting menu, chef Brett Gardiner has been an active participant in Fresh from Florida promotions.

主厨布雷特·加德纳 (Brett Gardiner) 曾举办过佛罗里达州草莓品尝菜单等活动，并且一直积极参与 Fresh from Florida 的促销活动。

In March, Pelagia’s menu listed Three Suns Ranch wild boar ragout.

三月，Pelagia 的菜单上列出了三太阳牧场野猪炖肉。

Three Suns owner Keith Mann, who has masterminded a plan to take in trapped nuisance hogs in Punta Gorda and have them USDA slaughtered for meat, said no. This has happened to him with several restaurants.

三太阳队老板基思·曼 (Keith Mann) 策划了一项计划，计划在蓬塔戈尔达收养被困的生猪，并让美国农业部将其屠宰用作肉类，但他拒绝了。他在几家餐馆都遇到过这种情况。

“They want the story and they don’t want to pay the price… I consider it theft.

“他们想要这个故事，但不想付出代价……我认为这是盗窃。

It’s stealing our hard work.”

它窃取了我们的辛勤工作。”

Gardiner said he was surprised Three Suns was named on the menu and that it was a mistake, a holdover from the past, when he’d purchased the pork through a distributor.

加德纳说，他对菜单上出现“三太阳”的名字感到惊讶，这是一个错误，是他通过经销商购买猪肉时遗留下来的。

The menu touted “local” burrata mozzarella on the caprese salad.

菜单上的凯普雷塞沙拉上标榜的是“当地的”布拉塔奶酪。

Gardiner said it was a product from Fort Lauderdale called Fioretta.

加德纳说，这是劳德代尔堡的一种产品，名为 Fioretta。

The menu also listed Zellwood corn polenta, Zellwood being Florida’s most famous sweet corn, grown about 15 miles north of Orlando.

菜单还列出了 Zellwood 玉米玉米粥，Zellwood 是佛罗里达州最著名的甜玉米，生长在奥兰多以北约 15 英里处。

“We buy fresh corn from them and cook it down,” said Pelagia sous chef Tim Ducharme.

“我们从他们那里购买新鲜玉米并煮熟，”Pelagia 副主厨 Tim Ducharme 说。

When reminded that Zellwood corn isn’t in season now, Ducharme said, “Well, we buy fresh corn from someone.”

当被提醒泽尔伍德玉米现在不是季节时，杜查尔姆说，“好吧，我们从别人那里买新鲜玉米。”

“We don’t really use blue crab,” Ducharme said.

“我们并不真正使用蓝蟹，”杜查尔姆说。

“It’s a jumbo lump crab canned product from US Foods out of Miami.”

“这是迈阿密美国食品公司生产的一种大块螃蟹罐头产品。”

The Times had the crab DNA tested by Bob Ulrich in USF’s College of Marine Science, the identification performed by PureMolecular.

《纽约时报》请南佛罗里达大学海洋科学学院的鲍勃·乌尔里希 (Bob Ulrich) 对螃蟹 DNA 进行了测试，鉴定工作由 PureMolecular 进行。

Pelagia’s crab is actually a species called “swimming blue crab” from the Indian or West Pacific Ocean.

佩拉吉亚蟹实际上是一种来自印度洋或西太平洋的“游蓝蟹”物种。

The FDA requires that this be sold simply as “crab” or as “swimming blue crab.”

FDA 要求仅将其作为“螃蟹”或“游蓝蟹”出售。

“If they are selling this as Florida blue crab,” said Ulrich, “it’s deceiving.”

“如果他们把这种螃蟹当作佛罗里达蓝蟹出售，”乌尔里希说，“那就是骗人的。”

When apprised on April 6 of the test results, Gardiner said, “I’ll own up to that.

当 4 月 6 日得知测试结果时，加德纳说：“我会承认这一点。”

It’s swimming blue crab.

它是游动的蓝蟹。

Most of the time it comes from Indonesia or Vietnam.

大多数时候它来自印度尼西亚或越南。

I guess we’ve been calling it that for so long, but it should say jumbo lump crab.

我想我们这么叫它已经很久了，但它应该说是大块蟹。

It’s obviously an oversight on my part.

这显然是我的疏忽。

I try not to be malicious or mislead people.”

我尽量不恶意或误导他人。 –

Growing locally and sustainably with water conservation and zero-carbon footprint is nice if you can do it.

如果你能做到的话，通过节水和零碳足迹在当地实现可持续发展是很好的。

It’s also expensive, said Robert Tornello of 3 Boys Farm, a hydroponic outfit in Ruskin.

拉斯金水培机构 3 Boys Farm 的罗伯特·托内洛 (Robert Tornello) 表示，它的价格也很昂贵。

Especially when you add strict food safety documentation, greenhouse infrastructure and trained labor costs of $12 to $16 per hour.

尤其是当您加上严格的食品安全文件、温室基础设施和每小时 12 至 16 美元的训练有素的劳动力成本时。

It’s less than half that in places like Mexico.

在墨西哥等地，这个数字还不到一半。

“When a driver at $15 an hour has to do a three-hour round trip, plus fuel and overhead, to deliver three $30 cases of greens at 15 percent gross profit, you realize that the system is broken,” he said.

“当一名每小时 15 美元的司机必须进行 3 小时的往返，加上燃油和管理费用，才能以 15% 的毛利润运送三箱 30 美元的蔬菜时，你就会意识到这个系统已经崩溃了，”他说。

Rebecca Krassnoski of Nature Delivered has sold her naturally raised pork to restaurants like The Refinery and Pearl in the Grove.

Nature Delivered 的丽贝卡·克拉斯诺斯基 (Rebecca Krassnoski) 将她自然饲养的猪肉卖给了 The Refinery 和 Pearl in the Grove 等餐厅。

Here’s a little bit of her math:

这是她的一些数学计算：

Her cost to raise a pig to slaughter weight is $240 to $300, plus $50 to slaughter it and $50 to transport it.

她将一头猪饲养至屠宰体重的成本为 240 至 300 美元，再加上屠宰成本 50 美元和运输成本 50 美元。

So, let’s say her total cost is $400.

因此，假设她的总成本为 400 美元。

That whole pig, minus entrails and hair, will weigh 192 pounds.

这头整头猪，除去内脏和毛发，重 192 磅。

If she sells it at $3 per pound, that’s a sale price of $576.

如果她以每磅 3 美元的价格出售，那么售价为 576 美元。

“I make $200 if everything goes well,” she said.

“如果一切顺利，我可以赚 200 美元，”她说。

“That’s on a perfect day.

——那是完美的一天。

On average, I’m lucky if I make $100 on a pig and maybe I raise 100 pigs in a year.”

平均而言，如果我养一头猪能赚 100 美元，我就很幸运，也许我一年可以养 100 头猪。”

Ten thousand dollars a year is not a living, she said, but “nobody wants to pay $6 per pound for pork.” Most restaurants can’t, or won’t, pay her what she needs to live.

她说，一年一万美元不足以维持生计，但“没有人愿意花每磅 6 美元买猪肉。”大多数餐馆不能或不会支付她生活所需的费用。

“I can’t think of a time when my chops have been served at a restaurant on a daily basis,” she said.

“我想不出什么时候餐厅每天都会为我提供排骨，”她说。

“I think a lot of times farmers with a good story are used as a billboard.”

“我认为很多时候，有好故事的农民会被用作广告牌。”

And another thing.

还有一件事。

While it’s fun to nosh house-cured ham biscuits and sip small-batch bourbon in a dining room festooned with antique wheat scythes, for the people who actually grow the food, this isn’t reality.

虽然在挂满古董小麦镰刀的餐厅里品尝自制火腿饼干和小批量波本威士忌很有趣，但对于真正种植食物的人来说，这不是现实。

Farms tend to be where farm-to-table restaurants aren’t, said Craig Rogers, shepherd-in-chief of Border Springs Farm in Virginia.

弗吉尼亚州博德斯普林斯农场 (Border Springs Farm) 的牧羊人克雷格·罗杰斯 (Craig Rogers) 表示，农场往往是从农场到餐桌的餐厅所在的地方。

“The average farmer hasn’t been to a restaurant any fancier than Applebee’s,” he said.

“普通农民还没有去过比 Applebee's 更高档的餐厅，”他说。

Inside Edition correspondent Lisa Guerrero wore a fitted black blazer and stilettos when she busted with her camera crew into Get Hooked, a casual seafood restaurant in Hudson that on occasion hosts micro-championship little people wrestling.

《Inside Edition》记者丽莎·格雷罗 (Lisa Guerrero) 与摄制组一起闯入 Get Hooked 餐厅时，她穿着合身的黑色西装外套和高跟鞋。 Get Hooked 是哈德逊的一家休闲海鲜餐厅，偶尔会举办小型摔跤锦标赛。

Taking co-owner John Hill by surprise, she confronted him about his “Delicious Lobster Sensation,” part of a Feb.

让合伙人约翰·希尔 (John Hill) 惊讶的是，她向他质问了他的“美味龙虾感觉”，这是 2 月 12 日活动的一部分。

8 segment about the frequent fraudulence of lobster dishes.

8段关于龙虾菜肴欺诈频发的片段。

Although the restaurant has its own fishing boats, and Hill likes to say, “Our refrigerator is the Gulf of Mexico,” its lobster roll-like sandwich is made with a commercial product that contains cheaper fish such as whiting and pollock.

尽管餐厅有自己的渔船，希尔喜欢说，“我们的冰箱是墨西哥湾”，但它的龙虾卷状三明治是用商业产品制成的，其中含有鳕鱼和鳕鱼等更便宜的鱼。

After the show aired, I followed up to see how the revelation had affected the restaurant.

节目播出后，我跟进了解了这一消息对餐厅的影响。

“We’re selling more lobster rolls now than ever, and we’re serving the same product,” co-owner Michelle Bittaker said.

“我们现在销售的龙虾卷比以往任何时候都多，而且我们提供相同的产品，”合伙人米歇尔·比塔克 (Michelle Bittaker) 说。

“What the show forgot to tell you is that the sandwich is $9.95, with french fries and coleslaw.

– 节目忘记告诉你的是，三明治售价 9.95 美元，配有炸薯条和凉拌卷心菜。

Nobody in America could serve a real Maine lobster roll for $9.95.”

在美国，没有人能以 9.95 美元的价格提供真正的缅因州龙虾卷。”

They also offer a real Maine lobster roll on their specials board, she said, 6 ounces for what she calls a more realistic $24.95.

她说，他们的特价板上还提供真正的缅因州龙虾卷，6 盎司，她所说的更实际的价格是 24.95 美元。

King & Prince’s Lobster Sensations product has a 12-month freezer life, a 60-day shelf life unopened and a 10-day shelf life opened.

King & Prince 的 Lobster Sensations 产品的冷冻保质期为 12 个月，未开封保质期为 60 天，开封保质期为 10 天。

“It’s like the cockroach,” said Michael Peel, longtime owner of the now defunct Crazy Conch Cafe, who worked around seafood for 34 years.

“它就像蟑螂，”迈克尔·皮尔 (Michael Peel) 说道，他是现已倒闭的 Crazy Conch Cafe 咖啡馆的长期老板，他在海鲜行业工作了 34 年。

“It will be here after a nuclear attack.”

“核攻击后它将出现在这里。”

In addition to flavor enhancers disodium inosinate and disodium guanylate, the Sensation contains surimi, a fish paste that is flavored, frozen, extruded, dyed, rolled into ribbons and cut into chunks.

除了增味剂肌苷酸二钠和鸟苷酸二钠之外，Sensation 还含有鱼糜，这是一种经过调味、冷冻、挤压、染色、卷成丝带并切成块的鱼酱。

Surimi is one of the fastest-growing seafood products in North America.

鱼糜是北美增长最快的海鲜产品之一。

It is also, according to the Florida Department of Business and Professional Regulation, among the most frequent culprits in the state’s food misrepresentation complaints.

根据佛罗里达州商业和专业监管部的说法，它也是该州食品虚假陈述投诉中最常见的罪魁祸首之一。

“If it walks like a duck and talks like a duck, is it a duck?” said Peel.

“如果它走起来像鸭子，说话也像鸭子，那它还是鸭子吗？”皮尔说。

“Sometimes, but other times it could be surimi.”

“有时，但有时可能是鱼糜。”

In 2006, the Tampa Bay Times exposed the frequent substitution of other fish species for grouper.

2006年，《坦帕湾时报》揭露了石斑鱼经常被其他鱼类替代的情况。

Since then, dozens of news outlets have exposed spurious fish claims, yet the misrepresentations continue.

此后，数十家新闻媒体曝光了虚假的鱼类声明，但歪曲事实的情况仍在继续。

In February, I had the grouper sushi roll at Jackson’s Bistro on Harbour Island tested by Ulrich at USF.

二月份，我在海港岛的杰克逊小酒馆吃了石斑鱼寿司卷，由南佛罗里达大学的乌尔里希测试。

It was tilapia.

这是罗非鱼。

Naturally raised and grass-fed beef are equally fraught with fraud, according to John Bormann, program sales manager for JBS, a leading processor of beef, pork and lamb.

领先的牛肉、猪肉和羊肉加工商 JBS 的项目销售经理 John Bormann 表示，自然饲养的牛肉和草饲牛肉同样充满了欺诈行为。

On an average week, 530,000 head of cattle are processed in the United States, he said.

他说，美国平均每周加工 53 万头牛。

Fewer than 12,000 of them are naturally raised and antibiotic free.

其中不到 12,000 只是自然饲养且不含抗生素的。

“Sysco might buy 4,000 pounds a week of all-natural beef.

– Sysco 可能每周购买 4,000 磅纯天然牛肉。

Do you think that will service all the people who are claiming to sell it?”

您认为这会为所有声称出售它的人提供服务吗？

If you see all-natural steak for less than $20 on a menu, he said, beware.

他说，如果你在菜单上看到低于 20 美元的纯天然牛排，就要小心了。

Most Americans prefer the mouthfeel of corn-fed beef, but words like “hormone-free” and “pasture-raised” taste so much better than “feedlot.”

大多数美国人更喜欢玉米饲养的牛肉的口感，但“无激素”和“牧场饲养”等词语的味道比“饲养场”要好得多。

“Folks think they need a story on almost everything on their menu,” he said.

“人们认为他们的菜单上几乎所有东西都需要一个故事，”他说。

Noble Crust in St. Petersburg lists Fat Beet and 3 Boys farms on its chalkboard.

圣彼得堡的 Noble Crust 在其黑板上列出了 Fat Beet 和 3 Boys 农场。

Tim Curci of Fat Beet said, “It’s a plan, not a farm,” which will eventually grow things for Noble Crust on 9 acres near Race Track Road in Tampa.

Fat Beet 的 Tim Curci 表示，“这是一个计划，而不是一个农场”，最终将在坦帕赛马场路附近的 9 英亩土地上为 Noble Crust 种植农作物。

But right now?

但现在呢？

Fat Beet supplies a tiny fraction of the restaurant’s herbs.

甜菜只占餐厅香草的一小部分。

And 3 Boys’ Tornello said he hasn’t sold to Noble Crust since the end of last year.

3 Boys 托内洛表示，自去年年底以来，他还没有将 3 Boys 出售给 Noble Crust。

“That chalkboard needs to be updated,” Noble Crust co-owner T.J.

“黑板需要更新，”Noble Crust 共同所有人 T.J.

Thielbar said.

蒂尔巴说道。

“I do agree, it’s a misrepresentation.”

“我确实同意，这是一种误传。”

Not so bad when compared to Marchand’s at the Vinoy Renaissance St. Petersburg, which listed 3 Boys for a year past their last purchase, until Tornello said he wrote a letter asking them to remove it, which they did.

与圣彼得堡 Vinoy Renaissance 的 Marchand 相比，这还不算太糟糕，该店列出了 3 个男孩上次购买一年后的商品，直到 Tornello 说他写了一封信要求他们将其删除，他们确实这样做了。

Vinoy chef Mark Heimann confirmed this.

Vinoy 厨师 Mark Heimann 证实了这一点。

The menu at St. Petersburg’s Stillwaters Tavern touts: locally produced dairy, vegetables, grains, seafood and shellfish … we work with local artisans, farmers and foragers to serve the best of each season .

圣彼得堡斯蒂尔沃特斯酒馆的菜单主打：当地生产的乳制品、蔬菜、谷物、海鲜和贝类……我们与当地工匠、农民和采摘者合作，提供每个季节最好的菜肴。

Grains?

谷物？

Maybe, if grits from Tallahassee made with corn from Kentucky are “local.”

也许，如果塔拉哈西用肯塔基州玉米制成的玉米粉是“本地的”。

Mistakes happen.

错误会发生。

On April 6, the bar menu at The Canopy at The Birchwood in St. Petersburg listed Faithful Farms as a provider of lettuces.

4 月 6 日，圣彼得堡 The Birchwood 餐厅 The Canopy 的酒吧菜单将 Faithful Farms 列为生菜供应商。

The farm went out of business last summer.

去年夏天，农场倒闭了。

When asked about it, chef Jason Cline said, “I forgot that was on the menu.

当被问及此事时，厨师杰森·克莱恩 (Jason Cline) 说：“我忘了菜单上有这个。”

I’m totally embarrassed.

我完全尴尬了。

I’m literally taking it off the menu right now.

我现在真的要把它从菜单上删除了。

Within the hour.”

一小时内。 –

Antonino Casamento started with eight Mediterranean water buffalo a few years ago, he said, his herd growing to more than 30.

安东尼诺·卡萨门托 (Antonino Casamento) 说，几年前他开始饲养 8 头地中海水牛，现在他的牛群已增至 30 多头。

Not to be confused with American bison, these curvy-horned creatures are milked from Rome to Salerno, their milk turned into mozzarella and other prized Italian cheeses that often command double the price of cow’s milk cheeses.

不要与美洲野牛混淆，这些弯曲角的生物从罗马到萨莱诺被挤奶，它们的牛奶变成了马苏里拉奶酪和其他珍贵的意大利奶酪，这些奶酪的价格通常是牛奶奶酪的两倍。

Richer and more flavorful, buffalo milk is also lower in cholesterol and higher in protein and calcium.

水牛奶更丰富、更美味，胆固醇含量也较低，蛋白质和钙含量较高。

These days, Casamento is selling between 10 and 15 varieties of what he said are his own buffalo milk cheeses out of the tiny Mozzarella Bar he runs as a restaurant in Tampa.

如今，卡萨门托在坦帕经营一家小型餐厅，在马苏里拉酒吧出售 10 到 15 种他所说的自己的水牛奶奶酪。

State officials said it is not permitted to sell wine, which it does.

州政府官员表示，不允许出售葡萄酒，但事实却是允许的。

While you eat your cheese at up to $26 per pound, he will show you his “bible,” a photo album of his water buffalo.

当您以每磅 26 美元的价格享用奶酪时，他会向您展示他的“圣经”，即他的水牛的相册。

While he once sold his cheeses at St. Petersburg’s Saturday Morning Market and other outdoor stands, questions arose that he was substituting cow’s milk from Dakin Dairy in Myakka.

虽然他曾经在圣彼得堡的周六早市和其他户外摊位上出售奶酪，但有人质疑他正在用米亚卡 Dakin Dairy 的牛奶来代替。

Jerry Dakin confirmed he was selling milk to Casamento, but said Casamento hasn’t bought any in the past year.

杰里·达金证实他正在向卡萨门托出售牛奶，但表示卡萨门托在过去的一年里没有购买任何牛奶。

In January 2015, Casamento was accused of animal cruelty over a calf in Plant City found tied to a post too tightly, with an eye injury and a rope embedded in the muscle tissue of its neck.

2015年1月，卡萨门托被指控在普兰特城虐待动物，一头小牛被发现被绑在一根柱子上太紧，眼睛受伤，脖子的肌肉组织中嵌入了一根绳子。

In February 2015 he signed a settlement with the Hillsborough County Sheriff’s Office relinquishing ownership of the calf and agreeing to have Brandon veterinarian Mark Mayo inspect his herd.

2015 年 2 月，他与希尔斯伯勒县治安官办公室签署了一份和解协议，放弃了这头小牛的所有权，并同意让布兰登兽医马克·梅奥检查他的牛群。

“He really did love on 'em,” Mayo said of his visit.

“他真的很喜欢他们，”梅奥谈到他的访问时说道。

“They were a little down on weight.

– 他们的体重略有下降。

I wouldn’t say it was a severe animal cruelty case.

我不会说这是一起严重的虐待动物案件。

People have good intentions and sometimes things don’t go well.

人们的意图是好的，但有时事情并不顺利。

According to EcoFarm’s Jon Butts, Casamento sold his water buffalo about a year ago, many for their meat.

据 EcoFarm 的乔恩·巴茨 (Jon Butts) 称，卡萨门托大约一年前卖掉了他的水牛，其中许多是为了水牛的肉。

Butts took two males and a female at his Plant City farm, but said Casamento has not been buying their milk.

巴茨在他的普兰特城农场养了两只雄性和一只雌性，但表示卡萨门托并没有购买他们的牛奶。

Casamento said he sold some buffalo, but keeps other animals with a farmer named “Satia” in Myakka.

卡萨门托说，他卖掉了一些水牛，但将其他动物交给米亚卡一位名叫“萨蒂亚”的农民饲养。

He couldn’t tell me how many buffalo Satia has, nor Satia’s last name, address or phone number.

他无法告诉我萨蒂亚有多少头水牛，也无法告诉我萨蒂亚的姓氏、地址或电话号码。

Repeated calls went unanswered until I received this text: Dear Laura, we’re flattered that you’d like to write about us, as for your inquiry as to our supplier list, we highly respect our supplier’s privacy; our focus has shifted to MB our Italian bistro, and as a restaurateur in a highly competitive market wish to keep them as part of our coveted Italian family recipes.

多次拨打电话均无人接听，直到我收到这条短信：亲爱的劳拉，我们很荣幸您愿意写信介绍我们，至于您询问我们的供应商名单，我们高度尊重供应商的隐私；我们的重点已转移到 MB 我们的意大利小酒馆，作为竞争激烈的市场中的餐厅老板，希望将它们保留为我们梦寐以求的意大利家庭食谱的一部分。

I told him we couldn’t find anyone in Myakka who knew about a herd of water buffalo and asked if he was declining to reveal their whereabouts.

我告诉他，我们在米亚卡找不到任何人知道水牛群的情况，并询问他是否拒绝透露它们的下落。

His answer: You’re welcome.

他的回答是：不客气。

One day I’d be happy to chat with you in front of a cup of coffee … or wine, if you’d like.

有一天，如果您愿意，我很乐意在一杯咖啡或葡萄酒面前与您聊天。

There are restaurateurs selling precisely what they say they are.

有些餐馆老板的销售与他们所说的一模一样。

But the list makes for strange bedfellows.

但这份名单却让人感到奇怪。

Greg Seymour owns Pizzeria Gregario in Safety Harbor.

格雷格·西摩 (Greg Seymour) 在安全港拥有 Pizzeria Gregario 餐厅。

He buys whole pigs from EcoFarm and makes his own bacon, tasso and fennel sausage.

他从 EcoFarm 购买整头猪，自己制作培根、塔索和茴香香肠。

He makes his own mozzarella and yogurt from local milk and sources produce only from local farms that have organic certification or use organic practices.

他用当地牛奶自制马苏里拉奶酪和酸奶，并且仅从拥有有机认证或采用有机做法的当地农场采购产品。

It’s all listed on a crowded chalkboard.

所有这些都列在拥挤的黑板上。

The farmers say he’s the real deal.

农民们说他是货真价实的人。

This is a guy who hasn’t eaten asparagus for years because it doesn’t grow here.

这个人已经很多年没有吃过芦笋了，因为这里不长芦笋。

“I choose to do it because it’s what I think is right,” he said.

“我选择这样做是因为我认为这是正确的，”他说。

“And I’m just dogmatic in the way I do things.”

“而且我做事的方式很教条。”

“It’s brutally expensive, so it’s challenging because consumers are used to inexpensive food,” he said.

“它的价格极其昂贵，因此具有挑战性，因为消费者已经习惯了廉价的食品，”他说。

“It’s hard for them to compare apples to oranges.

– 他们很难将苹果与橙子进行比较。

I have low overhead and I don’t mind working 80 hours a week.

我的管理费用很低，而且我不介意每周工作 80 小时。

But I’m a pizzeria, right?

但我是一家比萨店，对吧？

So I can’t charge for a high food cost.”

所以我不能收取高昂的食品费用。”

A 12-inch pie with housemade fennel sausage and pickled banana peppers: $17.

一个 12 英寸的馅饼，配自制茴香香肠和腌香蕉辣椒：17 美元。

Ferrell Alvarez and Ty Rodriguez at Rooster & the Till in Seminole Heights, although thoroughly sick of the term “farm to table,” source locally for much of their food.

塞米诺尔高地 Rooster & the Till 的费雷尔·阿尔瓦雷斯 (Ferrell Alvarez) 和泰·罗德里格斯 (Ty Rodriguez) 尽管彻底厌倦了“从农场到餐桌”这个词，但他们的大部分食物都是从当地采购。

Urban Oasis Hydroponic Farm in Tampa grows specifically for Rooster, but has been misrepresented by other restaurants.

坦帕的城市绿洲水培农场专门为 Rooster 种植，但被其他餐厅歪曲了。

“The only thing we can grow year-round is lettuce,” said Urban Oasis co-owner Cathy Hume.

“我们唯一可以全年种植的作物就是生菜，”城市绿洲的共同所有人凯茜·休姆 (Cathy Hume) 说道。

“If they have collard greens on the menu in June, something is wrong.”

– 如果六月的菜单上有羽衣甘蓝，那就有问题了。 –

Some restaurants have their own farms.

有些餐馆有自己的农场。

Bern’s Steak House’s menu ends with a section about its organic farm: Depending on the seasons and the weather, we try to serve what we grow on our farm daily to our customers .

伯尔尼牛排屋的菜单最后有一个关于其有机农场的部分：根据季节和天气，我们尝试将每天在农场种植的产品提供给顾客。

In 2012, the Times reported that Bern’s Steak House was overreaching on organic claims , getting most produce from conventional suppliers.

2012 年，《泰晤士报》报道称，伯尔尼牛排馆在有机宣称上做得太过分了，大部分产品都来自传统供应商。

On a visit to the relocated farm in February (Bern Laxer’s original farm is now soccer fields and a Wawa), there was significantly more produce growing.

在二月份参观搬迁的农场时（伯尔尼拉克瑟原来的农场现在是足球场和瓦瓦），农产品的种植量显着增加。

Bern’s declined to comment for this story.

伯尔尼拒绝对此事发表评论。

Jeannie Pierola doesn’t shy away from lavish descriptions at her Edison: food+drink lab in Tampa.

珍妮·皮罗拉 (Jeannie Pierola) 毫不避讳地对她位于坦帕的爱迪生食品和饮料实验室进行了详尽的描述。

Red snapper a la plancha with avocado coconut grits, organic baby spinach, merguez marmalade, avocado coconut chutney and mango harissa puree .

红鲷鱼煎饼配牛油果椰子粗粉、有机嫩菠菜、梅尔格斯果酱、牛油果椰子酸辣酱和芒果哈里萨辣酱。

Research shows people will pay more when descriptions are longer.

研究表明，当描述更长时，人们会支付更多费用。

But Pierola, who did a James Beard House dinner in 2015 celebrating Florida’s indigenous foods, scarcely mentions provenance.

但皮耶罗拉 (Pierola) 在 2015 年为詹姆斯·比尔德之家 (James Beard House) 举办的晚宴上庆祝佛罗里达州的本土美食时，几乎没有提及其出处。

“I assume my guests know I am always pursuing the best product,” she said.

“我想我的客人知道我一直在追求最好的产品，”她说。

Cafe Ponte chef-owner Chris Ponte deals with more than 30 vendors for his 14-year-old Clearwater restaurant.

Cafe Ponte 主厨兼老板 Chris Ponte 的 Clearwater 餐厅拥有 14 年历史，与 30 多家供应商打交道。

He doesn’t list any small farms.

他没有列出任何小农场。

“It’s too difficult to be true farm to table,” he said.

“真正的从农场到餐桌太难了，”他说。

“It would be awesome if you could one-stop shop.”

“如果能提供一站式服务，那就太棒了。”

It’s difficult, but you sort of can.

这很难，但你还是可以的。

There are people like Emily Rankin of Local Roots and John Matthews of Suncoast Food Alliance, a new breed of middlemen connecting chefs to farmers.

其中包括 Local Roots 的 Emily Rankin 和 Suncoast Food Alliance 的 John Matthews，后者是连接厨师和农民的新型中间商。

Rankin helps deliver the food of about 60 producers a year to around 100 restaurants.

Rankin 每年帮助将约 60 家生产商的食品运送到约 100 家餐厅。

But the average restaurant works with 300 ingredients.

但一般餐厅会使用 300 种食材。

She said her supply can only cover a small portion of any menu.

她说她的供应只能涵盖任何菜单的一小部分。

How much is enough, in good faith, to make farm-to-table claims?

真诚地提出“从农场到餐桌”的主张需要多少钱？

The owners of The Refinery are widely known champions of local.

The Refinery 的业主是当地众所周知的拥护者。

They choose their words carefully.

他们谨慎地选择自己的措辞。

“Have you ever noticed we have never said we are a farm-to-fork restaurant?” asked Michelle Baker, co-owner of the Tampa restaurant with her husband, Greg.

“您有没有注意到，我们从来没有说过我们是一家从农场到餐桌的餐厅？”米歇尔·贝克 (Michelle Baker) 问道，她是坦帕餐厅的共同老板，她与丈夫格雷格 (Greg) 共同拥有这家餐厅。

“We’ve simply stated that we buy as much as we can … We’ve fought and forged these farm relationships because it’s just the right thing to do.”

“我们只是简单地表示，我们会尽可能多地购买……我们与这些农场关系进行了斗争并建立了关系，因为这是正确的做法。”

The James Beard Foundation named The Refinery a semifinalist for Best New Restaurant in 2011 and named Greg Baker a semifinalist for Best Chef South for the past five years.

詹姆斯·比尔德基金会 (James Beard Foundation) 提名 The Refinery 入围 2011 年最佳新餐厅半决赛，并提名 Greg Baker 入围过去五年最佳南方厨师半决赛。

Beyond Bern’s, it may be the Tampa Bay restaurant best known nationally.

除了伯尔尼餐厅之外，它可能是坦帕湾全国最知名的餐厅。

The Refinery’s website reads: If it wasn’t grown in Florida or produced using ethically sound methods, you probably won’t find it here.

该炼油厂的网站上写着：如果它不是在佛罗里达州种植或使用符合道德的方法生产的，那么您可能不会在这里找到它。

“They have a solid business model for sourcing produce, but it’s shakier for protein,” said Mike Peters, who was purchasing manager when the Bakers’ second restaurant, Fodder & Shine, debuted at the end of 2014.

“他们在采购农产品方面拥有可靠的商业模式，但在蛋白质方面却不太可靠，”迈克·彼得斯 (Mike Peters) 说。他是贝克家第二家餐厅 Fodder & Shine 于 2014 年底开业时的采购经理。

A diligent re-creation of early Florida Cracker food, it came complete with hardtack and beef from Cracker cattle.

它是对早期佛罗里达饼干食品的精心再现，配有硬面包和饼干牛的牛肉。

“I wound up losing so much money, I couldn’t justify it,” Greg Baker said.

“我最终损失了很多钱，我无法证明这是合理的，”格雷格·贝克说。

“We abandoned the whole Cracker idea and began retooling and examining what our customers wanted.

– 我们放弃了整个 Cracker 的想法，开始重组并检查客户的需求。

They didn’t care about heritage breeds, so we changed our mission.”

他们不关心传统品种，所以我们改变了我们的使命。”

Considering the fundamentals you have to have (carrots, onions, celery, potatoes, garlic, lemons), Greg Baker said, The Refinery uses 70 to 90 percent local produce, depending on the season.

考虑到你必须拥有的基本原料（胡萝卜、洋葱、芹菜、土豆、大蒜、柠檬），格雷格·贝克说，炼油厂使用 70% 至 90% 的当地农产品，具体取决于季节。

He uses all Florida fish and as much local meat as the market will bear.

他使用所有佛罗里达州的鱼和市场所能承受的尽可能多的当地肉类。

“There is a small percentage of people willing to pay for a Pasture Prime pork chop, (which) would be more than $40,” said Michelle Baker.

“只有一小部分人愿意支付 40 美元以上的 Pasture Prime 猪排，”米歇尔·贝克 (Michelle Baker) 说道。

“Upon reboot of the concept, we immediately stopped claiming to use local anything,” said Greg Baker.

“重新启动这个概念后，我们立即停止声称使用本地任何东西，”格雷格·贝克说。

“The market demanded different things, at a much lower price point, and one can starve on one’s principles.”

“市场需要不同的东西，而且价格要低得多，而一个人可能会缺乏自己的原则。”

We’re not helpless.

我们并非无助。

Increasingly, there are ways for consumers to track where food comes from.

消费者越来越多地通过多种方式追踪食物的来源。

There’s foodwaze.com, which verifies sustainable food businesses.

foodwaze.com 负责验证可持续食品企业。

There’s the chef who is also a Stetson University math professor developing a mathematical model to trace food.

这位厨师同时也是斯泰森大学的数学教授，他开发了一种追踪食物的数学模型。

“I’m not trying to re-enact a scene from Portlandia ,” said Hari Pulapaka, chef-owner of the award-winning farm-to-table Cress in DeLand.

“我并不是想重现波特兰迪亚的场景，”迪兰屡获殊荣的农场到餐桌水芹餐厅的主厨兼老板哈里·普拉帕卡 (Hari Pulapaka) 说。

“But consumers have to take ownership.”

– 但消费者必须拥有所有权。 –

And there’s an ingenious fish tracing program from Katie Sosa at Sammy’s Seafood in St. Petersburg.

圣彼得堡 Sammy’s Seafood 餐厅的凯蒂·索萨 (Katie Sosa) 推出了一项巧妙的鱼类追踪计划。

Sammy’s records the boat, captain and catch date.

Sammy 记录了船只、船长和捕捞日期。

Customers can look it all up tableside on their phones.

顾客可以在桌边用手机查看所有内容。

While Sosa works with up to 200 restaurants, only a handful of folks like Steve Westphal of St. Petersburg’s Parkshore Grill and 400 Beach, and Benito D’Azzo, the chef at Tampa’s David A.

虽然 Sosa 与多达 200 家餐厅合作，但只有少数餐厅如圣彼得堡 Parkshore Grill 和 400 Beach 的 Steve Westphal 以及坦帕 David A.

Straz Jr. Center for the Performing Arts, use her tool.

小斯特拉兹表演艺术中心，使用她的工具。

Why?

为什么？

Some customers might not like what they read: This fresh fish was caught more than a week ago?

有些顾客可能不喜欢他们读到的内容：这条新鲜的鱼是一个多星期前捕获的？

Complicated truths are the reality of the entire food industry.

复杂的事实是整个食品行业的现实。

There’s always a ragged edge to innovation, that famous farmer Joel Salatin said.

著名农民乔尔·萨拉丁 (Joel Salatin) 表示，创新总是有一条崎岖的道路。

The only path to greater transparency in our food system is consumer activism.

提高食品系统透明度的唯一途径是消费者激进主义。

“When it comes to something as intimate and personal as our bodies’ fuel,” Salatin said, “I beg people to be as discerning as they are about the Kardashians.”

“当谈到像我们的身体燃料这样亲密和个人的东西时，”萨拉丁说，“我请求人们像对待卡戴珊姐妹一样具有洞察力。”

Since the first Boca debuted in 2012, the parent group rolled out another in Winter Park and a third in Riverview.

自 2012 年第一家 Boca 首次亮相以来，母公司在 Winter Park 推出了另一家，在 Riverview 推出了第三家。

Two more are set to open.

还有两个即将开放。

As of April 5, the website listed vendors King Family Farm and C&D; Fruit & Vegetable Company, both in Bradenton.

截至 4 月 5 日，该网站列出的供应商包括 King Family Farm 和 C&D；水果和蔬菜公司，均位于布雷登顿。

King Family has, for months, been listed as “permanently closed” on Facebook, its phone disconnected.

几个月来，King Family 在 Facebook 上被列为“永久关闭”，其电话也已断开。

Leanne O’Brien of C&D; said they do not sell anything to Boca.

C&D 的 Leanne OâBrien；说他们不向博卡出售任何东西。

The Riverview chalkboard recently listed Seminole Pride beef and Long & Scott Farms, neither of which are current vendors.

河景黑板上最近列出了塞米诺尔骄傲牛肉和朗与斯科特农场，这两个农场都不是当前的供应商。

While Boca’s Tampa chef, Sandy DeBenedietto, said they buy their Florida pink shrimp through distributor Halperns’ Steak & Gary’s Seafood in Orlando, the distributor has no record of pink shrimp purchases this year.

虽然博卡坦帕的厨师桑迪·德贝内迪托 (Sandy DeBenedietto) 表示，他们通过奥兰多的经销商 Halperns Steak & Gary's Seafood 购买佛罗里达粉红虾，但该经销商今年没有购买粉红虾的记录。

And on that Tampa chalkboard, Captain Kirk Morgan was said to supply red snapper and grouper.

在坦帕的黑板上，据说柯克·摩根船长供应红鲷鱼和石斑鱼。

Morgan is not licensed to sell direct to restaurants, and said he has never sold Boca any fish.

摩根没有直接向餐馆销售的许可，并表示他从未向博卡出售过任何鱼。

Furthermore, he doesn’t catch red snapper or grouper.

此外，他也没有钓到红鲷鱼或石斑鱼。

He catches sheepshead, mullet and jacks.

他捕捉羊头鱼、鲻鱼和鲹鱼。

When confronted, Boca’s executive chef Matt Mangone first said he had met Morgan at I.C.

当被质问时，博卡的行政总厨马特·曼戈尼首先表示，他在 I.C. 见过摩根。

Sharks market in St. Petersburg, and had purchased from him a couple times.

圣彼得堡的鲨鱼市场，从他那里购买过几次。

When told the angler said otherwise, Mangone said, “Well, we bought it through a friend of his.”

当被告知钓鱼者另有说法时，曼戈内说：“好吧，我们是通过他的朋友买的。”

Morgan had no knowledge of that.

摩根对此一无所知。

Why was his name on the chalkboard?

为什么他的名字出现在黑板上？

Contact Laura Reiley at [email protected] or (727) 892-2293.

请通过 [email protected] 或 (727) 892-2293 联系 Laura Reiley。

Follow @lreiley .

关注@lreiley。

This story was changed April 15 to reflect that the burrata mozzarella at Pelagia is from Fort Lauderdale, not Italy.

这个故事于 4 月 15 日进行了更改，以反映 Pelagia 的布拉塔马苏里拉奶酪来自劳德代尔堡，而不是意大利。

Tampa Bay Times food critic Laura Reiley began to witness an uptick in food provenance claims several years ago.

坦帕湾时报美食评论家劳拉·雷利（Laura Reiley）几年前就开始见证食品来源声明的增加。

She reported this story over a period of two months, interviewing dozens of chefs, restaurateurs, farmers, state officials and food industry experts.

她用两个月的时间报道了这个故事，采访了数十名厨师、餐馆老板、农民、国家官员和食品行业专家。

She combed through hundreds of menus from Tampa Bay restaurants, identifying those that made specific claims, and then she investigated those claims.

她梳理了坦帕湾餐厅的数百份菜单，找出了做出具体主张的菜单，然后对这些主张进行了调查。

She visited farms, spoke with distributors and had foods genetically tested when deemed necessary.

她参观了农场，与经销商交谈，并在必要时对食品进行了基因测试。

When she found discrepancies or misrepresentations at restaurants, she gave chefs and restaurateurs the opportunity to explain.

当她发现餐厅存在差异或虚假陈述时，她给厨师和餐馆老板提供解释的机会。

As a result of these conversations, a number of the restaurants in the story amended their menus to more accurately reflect what they are selling: Pelagia, Jackson’s Bistro, Mermaid Tavern, The Canopy and Maritana Grille changed their printed menus and Boca Kitchen Bar Market and Noble Crust agreed to change their chalkboards.

经过这些对话，故事中的许多餐厅修改了菜单，以更准确地反映他们所销售的产品：Pelagia、Jackson’s Bistro、Mermaid Tavern、The Canopy 和 Maritana Grille 更改了印刷菜单，Boca Kitchen Bar Market 和 Noble Crust 同意更改其黑板。

Design and production: Martin Frobisher and Josie Hollingsworth

设计和制作：Martin Frobisher 和 Josie Hollingsworth

Laura Reiley has been the Tampa Bay Times’ food critic since 2007.

劳拉·雷利 (Laura Reiley) 自 2007 年起担任《坦帕湾时报》美食评论家。

She has received numerous state and national awards.

她曾获得多项州和国家奖项。

She is a former critic for the San Francisco Chronicle and the Baltimore Sun and the author of four guidebooks in the Moon Handbook series.

她是《旧金山纪事报》和《巴尔的摩太阳报》的前评论家，也是《月球手册》系列四本指南的作者。

She has cooked professionally and is a graduate of the California Culinary Academy.

她专业烹饪，毕业于加州烹饪学院。