The World’s Most Luxurious Fashion Show
Four days will quickly steep themselves in night; Four nights will quickly dream away the time.
四天很快就会陷入黑夜。四晚的时间很快就会在梦中消逝。
Stefano Gabbana, the fashion designer, leaned on the railing of his yacht, the Regina d’Italia, and smiled.
时装设计师斯特凡诺·加巴纳 (Stefano Gabbana) 靠在他的意大利女王号游艇的栏杆上，微笑着。
His neighbors in the Portofino marina were enjoying an early-evening aperitivo on the deck of the Ester III—an enormous vessel, with a helipad on top and a transparent-frame swimming pool on the lower deck, that had drawn admiring stares from pedestrians on the quay all afternoon.
他在波托菲诺码头的邻居们正在埃斯特三世号的甲板上享受傍晚的开胃酒——这是一艘巨大的船只，顶部有一个直升机停机坪，下层甲板上有一个透明框架的游泳池，整个下午都吸引了码头上行人的钦佩目光。
The neighbors waved; he waved back.
邻居们挥手致意。他也向我挥手。
“A client,” he said, with the air of confiding an obvious secret.
“一位客户，”他说道，语气里透露出明显的秘密。
It was a Wednesday evening in July, the week after most French and Italian haute-couture houses had defied a heat wave in Paris to show their latest collections.
那是七月的一个星期三晚上，一周前，大多数法国和意大利高级时装品牌都顶住了巴黎的热浪，展示了他们的最新系列。
Temperatures had reached the mid-nineties in Milan, too, where, at the air-conditioned atelier of Dolce & Gabbana, designers and seamstresses had worked into the night completing the company’s version of haute couture, the Alta Moda collection.
米兰的气温也达到了九十多度，在杜嘉班纳 (Dolce & Gabbana) 的空调工作室里，设计师和女裁缝们一直工作到深夜，完成该公司的高级时装版本 Alta Moda 系列。
Launched four years ago by Gabbana, fifty-two, and his business partner of thirty years, Domenico Dolce, fifty-seven, Alta Moda consists of one-of-a-kind, made-to-measure pieces: virtuoso demonstrations of what can be achieved sartorially when the imagination of a designer and the spending power of his patron are given unconstrained expression.
Alta Moda 由 52 岁的 Gabbana 和他长达 30 年的商业伙伴、57 岁的 Domenico Dolce 于四年前创立，由独一无二的定制单品组成：大师级的展示了当设计师的想象力和赞助人的消费能力得到无限制的表达时，可以实现什么样的剪裁效果。
The client on the neighboring yacht, a Russian woman who was relaxing with her family in the fading light, had sailed into Portofino to see the results of Alta Moda’s work.
邻近游艇上的客户是一位俄罗斯女士，她正在与家人在昏暗的灯光下放松，她航行到波托菲诺来参观 Alta Moda 的工作成果。
Since Alta Moda’s inception, the fall/winter collection has been shown outside of Milan.
自 Alta Moda 成立以来，秋冬系列一直在米兰以外的地方展出。
The first was presented in Taormina, in Dolce’s native Sicily; the event was relatively modest, with a performance of Bellini’s “Norma,” in the town’s ancient amphitheatre, followed by a fashion show held in a monastery turned luxury hotel.
第一场在多尔切的故乡西西里岛的陶尔米纳举行。这次活动相对温和，在镇上古老的圆形剧场表演了贝利尼的《诺尔玛》，随后在一座由修道院改建的豪华酒店举行了一场时装秀。
The next year, the party moved to Venice, where guests were ferried along the Grand Canal in gondolas to attend a ball in the Palazzo Pisani Moretta, wearing jewel-encrusted masks commissioned for the event.
第二年，派对搬到了威尼斯，客人们戴着专为该活动定制的镶满珠宝的面具，乘坐贡多拉沿大运河沿着大运河前往皮萨尼莫雷塔宫参加舞会。
Last summer, Alta Moda hosted a weekend in Capri.
去年夏天，Alta Moda 在卡普里岛举办了一个周末活动。
Guests gathered on a rocky outcrop and watched as a flotilla of gozzi , traditional Caprese fishing boats, carried models wearing ball gowns with billowing skirts—some of them hand-painted with broad regatta stripes in blue and red, others richly patterned in the style of majolica ceramics.
宾客们聚集在岩石露头上，观看传统的卡普雷塞渔船 gozzi 载着穿着舞会礼服和飘逸裙子的模特——其中一些手绘有蓝色和红色的宽帆船条纹，另一些则采用珐琅陶瓷风格的丰富图案。
This year, Dolce and Gabbana decided to invite their clients to Portofino, a onetime village of fishermen that has become a village of fancy people.
今年，杜嘉班纳 (Dolce & Gabbana) 决定邀请他们的客户来到波托菲诺 (Portofino)，这里曾经是一个渔民村，如今已成为一个时尚人士的村庄。
The designers own neighboring villas on the secluded wooded promontory that forms the eastern border of the town’s harbor.
设计师在树木繁茂的僻静海角上拥有邻近的别墅，该海角形成了该镇港口的东部边界。
These properties, and other sites around town, were to serve as the setting for the most ambitious Alta Moda getaway yet: a four-day weekend of fashion shows, dinners, and other festivities, culminating in a dance party with a dress code of gold.
这些房产以及城镇周围的其他地点将成为迄今为止最雄心勃勃的 Alta Moda 度假的场所：为期四天的周末，举办时装秀、晚宴和其他庆祝活动，最后以金色着装的舞会达到高潮。
Nearly a year of preparation had gone into readying the sites, and teams of workers were still laboring on the hill above the marina.
工地的准备工作已经进行了近一年，工人们仍在码头上方的山上劳作。
“I am in just one room of my house,” Dolce said.
“我只待在家里的一个房间里，”多尔切说。
He was sitting with Gabbana at the Regina d’Italia’s dining table, as a deckhand poured refreshments into champagne flutes.
他和加巴纳坐在意大利里贾纳号的餐桌旁，一名水手将茶点倒入香槟杯中。
Dolce and Gabbana, once a couple, ended their romantic relationship more than a decade ago, but they maintain an affectionate bond that is augmented by the presence of handsome younger partners.
杜嘉班纳 (Dolce) 和嘉班纳 (Dolce & Gabbana) 曾经是一对情侣，十多年前结束了他们的浪漫关系，但他们仍然保持着深情的联系，而年轻英俊的伴侣的存在使他们的关系更加深厚。
A movie-night selection made by Dolce’s boyfriend, a gracious Brazilian advertising executive named Guilherme Siqueira, had provided the inspiration for this season’s Alta Moda collection: the 1999 version of “A Midsummer Night’s Dream,” directed by Michael Hoffman and starring Michelle Pfeiffer, which was filmed in Italy.
Dolce 的男朋友、一位亲切的巴西广告主管 Guilherme Siqueira 为电影之夜精选的电影为本季 Alta Moda 系列提供了灵感：1999 年版本的《仲夏夜之梦》，由 Michael Hoffman 执导，Michelle Pfeiffer 主演，在意大利拍摄。
Dolce explained, “When you see this movie, you go, ‘This is like a dream in Portofino.’ ”
多尔切解释说，“当你看到这部电影时，你会说，‘这就像波托菲诺的一场梦。’”
He and Gabbana had been struck by the film’s vision of an Italian countryside populated with characters drawn from ancient Greek myth: Theseus, the mythological founder of Athens, and his betrothed, Hippolyta, the Amazonian queen.
他和加巴纳对影片中意大利乡村的景象感到震惊，那里充满了古希腊神话中的人物：雅典的神话创始人忒修斯和他的未婚夫亚马逊女王希波吕忒。
The forthcoming fashion show, Dolce said, was an attempt to imagine the result of a triple collaboration: “Homer, the visionary; Dante, the poet of Purgatory and Paradise, with Beatrice, la bellezza; and Shakespeare, with the crazy humor.”
多尔切表示，即将举行的时装秀是对三重合作结果的一次尝试：“荷马，有远见的人；但丁，炼狱和天堂的诗人；比阿特丽斯，美丽的人；莎士比亚，疯狂的幽默。”
Gabbana, holding a gold fan at a party whose dress code was gold.
加巴纳 (Gabbana) 在派对上手持金色扇子，着装要求为金色。
At the event, a guest posted “#nowords” on Instagram.
在活动中，一位嘉宾在 Instagram 上发布了“#nowords”。
This immodest undertaking would be set in a bosky area on the promontory that is protected as a nature reserve.
这个不谦虚的项目将设立在海角的一片树林地区，该地区被作为自然保护区进行保护。
These woods are down the hill from Dolce’s house, a villa that he bought about ten years ago.
这些树林位于多尔切家的山下，这是他大约十年前买的别墅。
Fragments of ancient pottery have been discovered on the hill, including a chunk of marble engraved with a dolphin.
在山上发现了古代陶器的碎片，其中包括一块刻有海豚的大理石。
(In Roman times, the harbor was known as Porto Delfino.) The villas, Gabbana noted, overlook the water through pine trees and olive groves.
（在罗马时代，港口被称为德尔菲诺港。）加巴纳指出，这些别墅透过松树和橄榄树林俯瞰着水面。
He said of the view, “You feel like you are in Greece.”
他谈到这种景色时说：“你感觉自己就像在希腊一样。”
That week, the real Greece was edging toward economic collapse, and a deadline for establishing its terms of debt repayment to the European Union had been set for Sunday night—the evening of the gold party.
那一周，真正的希腊正在走向经济崩溃，确定其偿还欧盟债务条件的最后期限被定在周日晚上——黄金派对的晚上。
The Dolce & Gabbana store in Athens had been closed.
雅典的杜嘉班纳 (Dolce & Gabbana) 商店已关闭。
“To give respect,” Dolce said.
“为了给予尊重，”多尔切说。
“We don’t pretend the people there can buy a pair of shoes,” Gabbana said.
“我们不会假装那里的人可以买一双鞋，”加巴纳说。
He added that Alta Moda clients were unlikely to be harmed much by the economic tumult that was dominating the news.
他补充说，占据新闻头条的经济动荡不太可能对 Alta Moda 的客户造成太大伤害。
“These people live in another world,” Gabbana observed.
“这些人生活在另一个世界，”加巴纳观察到。
“I don’t live in that world.” He said he was sometimes surprised by the extravagances that Alta Moda clients took for granted.
“我并不生活在那个世界里。”他说，有时 Alta Moda 客户认为理所当然的奢侈行为让他感到惊讶。
“Like when a customer says, ‘Oh, next time, when you come back, I want to show you my zoo,’ ” he said, his eyes widening.
“就像一位顾客说，‘哦，下次你回来的时候，我想带你看看我的动物园，’”他睁大了眼睛说道。
“My face was like marble,” he went on.
“我的脸像大理石一样，”他继续说道。
“I said, ‘Yes, why not?’ But— zoo ?
“我说，‘是的，为什么不呢？’但是——动物园？
I live in an apartment, I have three dogs, two cats—you know what I mean.
我住在一间公寓里，我养了三只狗，两只猫——你知道我的意思。
For me, it was very new.”
对我来说，这非常新鲜。”
Maintaining perspective was important.
保持观点很重要。
The Regina d’Italia—with its black upholstered daybeds piled with lynx throws, and its Astrakhan carpets underfoot—was a hundred and sixty-four feet in length.
Regina d’Italia 的黑色软垫躺椅上堆满了山猫毛毯，脚下铺着阿斯特拉罕地毯，长度为一百六十四英尺。
But the Ester III was almost fifty feet longer.
但埃斯特三号几乎长了五十英尺。
Gabbana, who is estimated by Forbes to be one of the thirty richest people in Italy, with a net worth of $1.62 billion, said, “And out there ”—a gesture toward the bay—“is another one bigger, and another one bigger.”
加巴纳被《福布斯》评为意大利 30 名最富有的人之一，净资产达 16.2 亿美元。
Dolce, who is also estimated by Forbes to be one of the thirty richest people in Italy, with an equivalent fortune, nodded.
多尔切也被《福布斯》评为意大利最富有的三十人之一，拥有同等财富，他点点头。
“If you start comparisons, you never finish,” he said.
“如果你开始比较，你永远不会结束，”他说。
I’ll give thee fairies to attend on thee; And they shall fetch thee jewels from the deep.
我会给你仙女侍奉你；他们将从深处为你取来珠宝。
By late morning the next day, Alta Moda clients were making their unmistakable presence felt in Portofino’s cobblestoned piazza.
第二天上午晚些时候，Alta Moda 的客户们在波托菲诺的鹅卵石广场上明显地感受到了他们的存在。
In an inspired commercial calculation, Dolce & Gabbana had established a pop-up store in the village selling ready-to-wear.
杜嘉班纳 (Dolce & Gabbana) 出于商业考虑，在村里开设了一家快闪店，出售成衣。
It occupied what was usually a fine-art gallery.
它占据了通常是美术馆的地方。
“They came to us in December and said, ‘We have this idea,’ ” the gallery’s owner, Francesca Brusacà, explained.
“他们在 12 月来找我们并说，‘我们有这个想法，’”画廊老板弗朗西斯卡·布鲁萨卡 (Francesca Brusacà) 解释道。
“First, it was for four to five days.
“首先，持续了四到五天。
Then it was for ten days.
然后一待就是十天。
Then it was for the whole month.” Brusacà’s usual inventory—paintings and sculptures by international contemporary artists—had been moved to a back room or to a warehouse.
然后就持续了整整一个月。”布鲁萨卡常用的库存——国际当代艺术家的绘画和雕塑——已被转移到后面的房间或仓库。
In the art works’ place were clothing racks filled with dresses, shirts, rompers, and bathing suits, all from a limited-edition “Portofino” collection, made especially for this weekend.
艺术品所在的衣架上摆满了连衣裙、衬衫、连衣裤和泳衣，所有这些都来自限量版“Portofino”系列，专为这个周末制作。
Many of the few remaining paintings on the walls were by Enzo Casillo, a Neapolitan artist who specializes in frankly touristic views of Portofino.
墙上仅存的几幅画作中有许多是恩佐·卡西略（Enzo Casillo）的作品，他是一位那不勒斯艺术家，专门研究波托菲诺的坦率的旅游景观。
Images like these had been the collection’s inspiration.
像这样的图像是该系列的灵感来源。
One could buy a cotton sundress cut from fabric printed with crayon-bright images of quaint, clustered buildings against blue skies for seventeen hundred dollars—half the price of the painting hanging above it.
人们可以花 1700 美元购买一件用布料剪裁而成的棉质背心裙，上面印有蜡笔般明亮的图像，描绘着蓝天映衬下的古色古香、密集的建筑——这是挂在上面的画作价格的一半。
The sundress was a bargain compared to Alta Moda creations, which start at about forty thousand dollars and can cost much, much more.
与 Alta Moda 的作品相比，这款背心裙很便宜，Alta Moda 的起价约为四万美元，而且价格可能要高得多。
Vases of blue and pink and purple hydrangeas were arrayed on display tables, alongside pastel-colored bags, espadrilles, and jewelled tiaras.
展示桌上摆放着蓝色、粉色和紫色绣球花的花瓶，旁边还有柔和色彩的包袋、草编鞋和镶满珠宝的头饰。
The store was bustling.
店里很热闹。
A Japanese client named Eriko Yagi was handing out leaflets featuring images of herself in a variety of high-fashion outfits—most of them including short skirts and platform heels.
一位名叫 Eriko Yagi 的日本客户正在散发传单，其中印有她穿着各种高级时尚服装的照片，其中大部分包括短裙和厚底高跟鞋。
Today’s outfit was from Dolce & Gabbana’s spring ready-to-wear collection: scarlet matador-inspired short shorts and a crisp white shirt, which Yagi, in a Harajuku gesture, had paired with floral-patterned kneesocks.
今天的服装来自 Dolce & Gabbana 的春季成衣系列：猩红色的斗牛士风格短裤和清爽的白衬衫，八木以原宿的姿态搭配了花卉图案的及膝袜。
Another client, overheard at one of the coffee tables that had been set up under a canopy outside the gallery, had suffered a disaster: her luggage had been lost en route to Portofino.
另一位客户在画廊外的天篷下搭建的一张咖啡桌旁无意中听到，她遭遇了一场灾难：她的行李在前往波托菲诺的途中丢失了。
She had wept all morning, until she arrived at a solution: she just had to buy more clothes.
她哭了一上午，直到找到一个解决办法：她只得买更多的衣服。
Sonia Chekerdjian, of Beirut, looks in a mirror after a footman presents her with a necklace from the Alta Gioielleria collection.
贝鲁特的 Sonia Chekerdjian 在一名男仆送给她一条 Alta Gioielleria 系列的项链后看着镜子。
“That’s my nightmare,” Helen Wilson, a personable British client, said.
“那是我的噩梦，”风度翩翩的英国客户海伦·威尔逊 (Helen Wilson) 说。
She and her husband had just driven from the South of France, where they have a house.
她和她的丈夫刚刚从法国南部开车过来，他们在那里有一所房子。
Wilson was dressed casually, in cut-off jeans and a pretty rose-patterned blouse from Dolce & Gabbana’s most recent ready-to-wear collection.
威尔逊穿着休闲，穿着毛边牛仔裤和杜嘉班纳 (Dolce & Gabbana) 最新成衣系列的漂亮玫瑰图案衬衫。
The Wilsons’ luggage consisted of seven suit carriers, in addition to their suitcases, and Wilson supervised the porter unloading her bags to make sure that nothing got creased.
威尔逊夫妇的行李除了手提箱外还有七个西装架，威尔逊监督搬运工卸下她的行李，以确保没有任何东西被弄皱。
“They can get a bit careless,” she said.
“他们可能会有点粗心，”她说。
Wilson explained that she had grown up loving fashion, and had wanted to pursue a career in it.
威尔逊解释说，她从小就热爱时尚，并想从事时尚事业。
But economic circumstances had demanded that she take a less glamorous job: working as an executive assistant at Fort Vale Engineering, in Lancashire, which commands eighty per cent of the global market in stainless-steel valves of the sort found on tanker trucks.
但经济形势要求她接受一份不那么光鲜亮丽的工作：在兰开夏郡的维尔堡工程公司担任行政助理，该公司在油罐车上使用的不锈钢阀门领域占据了全球 80% 的市场份额。
Fourteen years ago, she had married her boss—the co-owner of the company.
十四年前，她嫁给了她的老板——公司的共同所有人。
The Wilsons travel several months a year, and so far in 2015 they had visited Brazil, Israel, Jordan, Capri, Sicily, Milan, and the South of France.
威尔逊一家每年旅行几个月，2015 年到目前为止，他们已经访问了巴西、以色列、约旦、卡普里岛、西西里岛、米兰和法国南部。
Wilson was a devoted Alta Moda client, having attended the gatherings in Venice and Capri.
威尔逊是 Alta Moda 的忠实客户，曾参加过威尼斯和卡普里岛的聚会。
“It’s a great time to showcase what you’ve bought, and also to see what everyone else has bought,” she said.
“这是展示你买了什么，也看看其他人买了什么的好时机，”她说。
She’d made friends at the shows, and appreciated the chance to establish a personal connection with the designers.
她在时装秀上结识了朋友，并很高兴有机会与设计师建立个人联系。
“They are so passionate about telling their story, and their heritage,” she said.
“他们非常热衷于讲述自己的故事和传统，”她说。
“And for me they are one of the few designers to actually design with a woman’s body in mind: they understand her curves, and how she wants to look sexy, feminine, but with classic glamour.
“对我来说，他们是为数不多的真正考虑女性身体设计的设计师之一：他们了解她的曲线，以及她想要如何看起来性感、女性化，但又具有经典魅力。
To have something made perfectly to fit your body—because none of us have perfect proportions—it’s a very special thing.”
拥有完美贴合您身体的东西——因为我们没有人拥有完美的比例——这是一件非常特别的事情。”
The sales associate who works with Wilson in the London boutique approached her with deferential charm.
与威尔逊一起在伦敦精品店工作的销售助理以毕恭毕敬的魅力接近她。
He had selected some outfits for her to try from the Oro collection—yet more ready-to-wear designed specifically for Portofino, allowing guests to treat themselves to something new for the gold-themed party.
他从 Oro 系列中挑选了一些服装供她试穿，还有更多专为波托菲诺设计的成衣，让客人在金色主题派对上享受新的享受。
In a dressing area set up at the rear of the gallery, Wilson slipped behind a curtain with seven outfits on hangers, under the fond eye of her husband, Ian Wilson, who was tan, slim, and silver-haired.
在画廊后面设置的更衣区，威尔逊躲在挂着七套衣服的窗帘后面，在她晒黑、苗条、银发的丈夫伊恩·威尔逊(Ian Wilson)的慈爱目光下。
She emerged in a swinging baby-doll dress made from golden lace.
她穿着一件金色蕾丝制成的摇摆娃娃裙出现。
“Is that real gold?” he asked, with amusement.
“那是真金吗？”他好笑地问道。
As she posed and turned in front of the mirror, she caught sight of another dress on a hanger: strapless, with a balloon skirt, made from black mesh.
当她在镜子前摆好姿势并转身时，她看到了衣架上的另一件衣服：无肩带、气球裙，由黑色网布制成。
She ducked back into the changing room.
她躲回更衣室。
When she stepped out again, this time wearing the black dress, over a very visible pair of coördinating gold hot pants, she locked eyes with her husband.
当她再次走出去时，这次穿着黑色连衣裙，下身是一条非常显眼的金色热裤，她与丈夫四目相对。
“It’s very me,” she said, with delight.
“这就是我，”她高兴地说。
“When it’s right, I know it’s right, right away.”
“当它是正确的时候，我立刻就知道它是正确的。”
Like many of Alta Moda’s guests, the Wilsons were staying at the Hotel Splendido, which is reached by a dauntingly steep and winding road that climbs the hill overlooking the town.
和 Alta Moda 的许多客人一样，威尔逊一家住在斯普兰迪多酒店 (Hotel Splendido)，要通过一条陡峭而蜿蜒的道路才能到达酒店，这条道路爬上山坡，俯瞰着小镇。
Suites cost upward of three thousand dollars a night.
套房每晚花费三千美元以上。
Portofino, which covers less than a square mile, did not have enough hotel rooms to accommodate all four hundred of the Dolce & Gabbana guests, and some had booked hotels in the neighboring town of Santa Margherita Ligure, or in Rapallo—a ten-minute boat ride away.
波托菲诺占地不到一平方英里，没有足够的酒店房间来容纳所有 400 名杜嘉班纳 (Dolce & Gabbana) 客人，有些人预订了邻近小镇圣玛格丽塔利古雷 (Santa Margherita Ligure) 或拉帕洛 (Rapallo) 的酒店——乘船 10 分钟即可到达。
A fleet of Mercedes minivans had been amassed from Milan and Genoa, and two dozen boats had been rented for the weekend.
从米兰和热那亚聚集了一支梅赛德斯小型货车车队，并租用了两打船来度过周末。
On Thursday evening, luxury speedboats began transporting guests to a dock, at the foot of the peninsula, that was manned by young men wearing blue-and-white striped T-shirts, off-white pants, and white deck shoes.
周四晚上，豪华快艇开始将客人运送到半岛脚下的一个码头，那里有穿着蓝白条纹 T 恤、灰白色裤子和白色甲板鞋的年轻男子。
Dozens of hurricane lanterns edged a flight of stone steps leading to Gabbana’s property, a handsome octagonal house set into the hillside.
数十盏防风灯笼挂在一段石阶上，通向加巴纳的庄园，那是一栋坐落在山坡上的漂亮的八角形房屋。
The guests ascended to a terrace, where a tented pavilion had been erected to display the Alta Gioielleria jewelry collection.
宾客们登上露台，那里搭建了一个帐篷式凉亭，展示 Alta Gioielleria 珠宝系列。
Two young men in satin frock coats and lace ruffs flanked the pavilion’s entrance, gently beating the air with fans of peacock feathers.
两个穿着缎面礼服、戴着蕾丝领边的年轻人站在展馆入口两侧，用孔雀羽毛扇轻轻地拍打着空气。
In keeping with the Dolce & Gabbana aesthetic, the jewelry consisted of lavishly colored, richly decorated, overstated finery.
为了符合 Dolce & Gabbana 的审美观，这些珠宝由色彩丰富、装饰华丽、夸张的装饰品组成。
Some gold drop earrings were shaped like lemons and studded with diamonds; others depicted squirrels nibbling on acorns with emerald leaves.
有些金耳坠的形状像柠檬，上面镶嵌着钻石；有些则像柠檬一样。其他画则描绘了松鼠正在啃着翠绿叶子的橡子。
A stunning necklace, wrought with jewelled and enamelled flowers, fruits, and butterflies, weighed heavily on its display stand.
一条令人惊叹的项链，用宝石和珐琅制成的花朵、水果和蝴蝶，在展示架上沉甸甸的。
Under a crystal chandelier at the center of the pavilion was a golden throne embellished with jewels.
楼阁中央的水晶吊灯下，是一座镶满珠宝的金色王座。
“The sultan’s throne,” Dolce said with satisfaction, as he stood near the open doorway, catching the breeze from the peacock fans.
“苏丹的宝座。”多尔切站在敞开的门口附近，迎着孔雀扇吹来的微风，满意地说。
The throne had been fabricated for the event by the makers of the jewelry collection, as had a collection of gilded jewel boxes clustered around the throne on velvet-upholstered footstools.
宝座是由珠宝系列制造商为这次活动制作的，宝座周围的天鹅绒软垫脚凳上还摆放着一系列镀金珠宝盒。
Guests were invited to sit by a satin-clad footman, who draped them with jewels, or placed on their head a tiara fit for Titania.
客人们被邀请坐在一位身着缎子的男仆旁边，男仆给他们戴上珠宝，或者给他们戴上适合泰坦妮娅的王冠。
Another footman, bending at the waist, held up an oval gilded mirror, like the one belonging to Snow White’s stepmother, while friends took iPhone pictures to post on Instagram.
另一名男仆弯着腰，举着一面椭圆形镀金镜子，就像白雪公主继母的那面镜子一样，而朋友们则用 iPhone 拍照并发布到 Instagram 上。
The footman with the mirror, elegant in brown satin with gold-braid trim, had an English accent.
拿着镜子的男仆穿着优雅的棕色缎子衣服，上面有金色的编织饰边，带着英国口音。
He said in a stage whisper, “There are a lot of princesses in Italy.”
他在舞台上低声说道：“意大利有很多公主。”
And I will purge thy mortal grossness so, That thou shalt like an aery spirit go.
我将净化你凡人的粗鄙，让你像飘渺的灵魂一样离去。
Alta Moda dresses are one-of-a-kind, and competition for them is fierce.
Alta Moda 连衣裙是独一无二的，竞争非常激烈。
Some clients start texting their orders even before the show is over.
一些客户甚至在演出结束之前就开始发短信订购。
A narrow cobblestone path rises from the piazza in Portofino to Domenico Dolce’s villa, which is surrounded by high stone walls.
一条狭窄的鹅卵石小路从波托菲诺的广场一直延伸到多梅尼科·多尔切的别墅，别墅周围环绕着高高的石墙。
All day on Friday, workmen made this fifteen-minute trek, portaging necessities for the evening: armfuls of peonies, sewing machines swathed in muslin, inscrutable spiky objects in gold.
周五一整天，工人们都进行了十五分钟的长途跋涉，搬运晚上的必需品：一抱抱牡丹、裹着平纹细布的缝纫机、难以理解的尖刺金器。
It was sweltering, and, with the workmen sweaty, sullen, and stripped to the waist, the scene evoked both Dolce & Gabbana’s suggestive advertisements and the opening sequence of “Spartacus.”
天气闷热，工人们满头大汗、闷闷不乐、光着上身，这一场景让人想起杜嘉班纳 (Dolce & Gabbana) 的暗示性广告和《斯巴达克斯》的开场镜头。
A security guard manned the gate outside the villa.
别墅外有一名保安把守大门。
Inside, ninety-four models with crimson lips and ballerina hair milled about on the patio and under tents.
里面，九十四位有着深红色嘴唇和芭蕾舞女演员头发的模特在露台上和帐篷下走来走去。
There would be none of the hurried disrobing that often happens backstage at fashion shows: each model was to wear just one couture outfit.
不会有时装秀后台经常发生的匆忙脱衣服的情况：每个模特只穿一套高级定制服装。
One ensemble had been made with metallic-lace fabric, from the nineteen-fifties, that had been found on a bolt containing only enough material for a single dress.
一套套装是用 19 世纪 50 年代的金属蕾丝面料制成的，这种面料是在一根螺栓上发现的，其中的材料只够制作一件连衣裙。
Equally rare cloth had been obtained from the supplier of ecclesiastical finery to the Vatican.
同样稀有的布料是从梵蒂冈的教会服饰供应商那里获得的。
Each outfit would be sold to the first customer to lay claim to it after the show ended.
每套服装都会被卖给第一个在演出结束后提出要求的顾客。
The clothes were being housed in the Casa San Giovanni, a ruined villa on Dolce’s property.
这些衣服被存放在卡萨圣乔瓦尼 (Casa San Giovanni)，这是多尔切 (Dolce) 地产上的一座废弃别墅。
It had been contrived to look even more picturesque, with brass candelabras suspended from exposed rafters and ivy artfully trained up the walls.
它被设计得看起来更加风景如画，黄铜烛台悬挂在裸露的椽子上，常春藤巧妙地爬满了墙壁。
Only a few hours before guests were to start arriving, seamstresses were still at work, stitching silk daisies onto the voluminous skirt of a wedding gown.
就在客人开始抵达前几个小时，裁缝们还在工作，将丝绸雏菊缝在婚纱的宽大裙摆上。
Dolce, who learned tailoring from his father, in Sicily, likes to show off the inside of dresses: the hidden corsetry and ingenious structuring.
多尔切 (Dolce) 在西西里岛向父亲学习剪裁，喜欢展示裙子的内部：隐藏的紧身胸衣和巧妙的结构。
Gabbana, a Milanese, focusses on the label’s taste, which is voluptuous, ornamental, and sexy.
Gabbana 是米兰人，注重品牌的品味，性感、装饰性和性感。
A silk ball gown was decorated with vibrant images of plants and animals, including a squirrel and a faun.
一件丝绸舞会礼服上装饰着充满活力的植物和动物图案，包括松鼠和农牧神。
“It’s a bosco incantato —an enchanted wood,” Gabbana said, running his hand over the material.
“这是一种 bosco incantato——一种施了魔法的木头，”加巴纳一边说，一边用手抚摸着这种材料。
He was dressed in shorts and a tank top that exposed his tattoos: a scorpion on one biceps, his name on the other.
他穿着短裤和背心，纹身暴露在外：一侧二头肌上有一只蝎子，另一侧是他的名字。
Outside, shirtless workers were still busy enchanting the wood, squatting to fill garden borders with blooming plants that had just been carted up the cobblestone path.
外面，光着膀子的工人们仍在忙着给树林施魔法，他们蹲在花园的边界上，种满了刚被运到鹅卵石小路上的开花植物。
“We look forward to revealing the Alta Moda Summer Night’s Dream in our fairy garden under the moonlight,” read handwritten invitations that were delivered to clients’ rooms.
“我们期待在月光下的童话花园里揭晓 Alta Moda 夏夜之梦”，送到客户房间的手写邀请函上写道。
A separate directive suggested that flat shoes were desirable for the climb up the hill.
另一项指令建议，爬山时最好穿平底鞋。
Many of the guests opted for jewelled thong sandals from the pop-up boutique.
许多客人选择了快闪精品店的宝石夹趾凉鞋。
But Xu Ping, a jewelry designer from Shenzhen, China, made her ascent in what looked like flip-flops.
但来自中国深圳的珠宝设计师徐平却穿着看起来像人字拖的鞋子，让自己的地位上升了。
She lifted the long silk skirt of her tiered, blue-and-white gown as if she were a Regency heiress obliged to step onto the muddy forecourt of a mansion.
她掀起蓝白分层礼服的长丝裙，仿佛她是一位被迫踏上宅邸泥泞前院的摄政女继承人。
A five-person entourage accompanied her, including a photographer—who stayed several paces ahead, ascending backward—and an assistant, who carried a backpack.
陪同她的有五人随行人员，其中包括一名摄影师（他保持领先几步，向后上升）和一名背着背包的助理。
At the top of the hill, where ushers greeted arriving guests, Xu Ping perched on a stone ledge while the assistant pulled out a replacement for the flip-flops: towering heels.
在山顶，引座员迎接到来的客人，徐平坐在一个石架上，助手拿出人字拖的替代品：高跟鞋。
An actor dressed as Dante, with a laurel wreath and a long red coat, signed programs and handed them to guests.
一位演员打扮成但丁，戴着月桂花环，穿着红色长外套，在节目上签名并将其交给嘉宾。
A harpist, installed in a walled overlook, was dressed unseasonably in a velvet cloak.
一个竖琴师安装在一个有围墙的观景台上，穿着一件不合时宜的天鹅绒斗篷。
The eighty or so footmen from the previous night had been repurposed: now dressed as Roman centurions and Renaissance swains, they stood in two parallel lines, raising floral bowers to form an entrance arcade of pink and blue.
前一天晚上的八十多名仆人已被重新调整用途：现在打扮成罗马百夫长和文艺复兴时期的情夫，他们排成两条平行线，架起花凉亭，形成粉红色和蓝色的入口拱廊。
This led to a glade whose freshly laid turf was only slightly browned from the heat.
这通向一片林间空地，新铺的草皮只是因为高温而稍微变黄了。
At the center was an upside-down oak tree fashioned from fibreglass; its knotted roots, decked with gourds, reached high into the air.
中心是一棵由玻璃纤维制成的倒置橡树；它的根部结满了葫芦，高高地伸向空中。
Nearby, three hoops had been suspended from branches in a grove of trees.
附近树林里的树枝上悬挂着三个圆环。
Three bare-chested acrobats wearing velvet bloomers and feathery wings clung to them—Maxfield Parrish silhouettes against a dusky sky.
三个赤裸上身的杂技演员穿着天鹅绒灯笼裤，身上紧贴着羽毛般的翅膀——昏暗的天空映衬着麦克斯菲尔德·帕里什的剪影。
A string quintet played under the trees.
弦乐五重奏在树下演奏。
Young women in glittery Greek tunics and gladiator sandals scattered rose petals.
穿着闪闪发光的希腊束腰外衣和角斗士凉鞋的年轻女性散落着玫瑰花瓣。
Guests sat on benches facing a raised runway.
客人们坐在面向高架跑道的长椅上。
Those with foresight had brought fans.
有远见的人带来了粉丝。
Helen Wilson looked glamorously nautical in a red-white-and-blue striped Alta Moda dress that she had bought the previous summer on Capri; the dress had been delivered to her only a few weeks earlier, after repeated fittings, and this was its first outing.
海伦·威尔逊 (Helen Wilson) 身穿去年夏天在卡普里岛买的红白蓝条纹 Alta Moda 连衣裙，看起来迷人的航海风。这件衣服是在经过反复试穿后几周前才交付给她的，而这是它的第一次亮相。
Xu Ping sat in the front row, amid a small group of Chinese clients.
徐平坐在前排，周围是一小群中国客户。
Her neighbor, flush after the climb, discreetly lifted the skirt of her pink kimono gown to let in fresh air.
她的邻居爬完后满脸通红，小心翼翼地掀起粉色和服的裙摆，让新鲜空气透进来。
Dolce and Gabbana have always been assertively Italian in their aesthetic, inspired equally by the studied chic of Cinecittà films and by the accidental stylishness of black-veiled widows in the south.
杜嘉班纳 (Dolce and Gabbana) 的审美风格始终是自信的意大利风格，其灵感同样来自 Cinecittà 电影中考究的时尚感和南方黑面纱寡妇的意外时尚。
Anna Magnani, the actress beloved by Roberto Rossellini and Luchino Visconti, was an inspiration for the “Sicilian dress”—a black slip, from the company’s fourth collection, that is regarded as one of Dolce & Gabbana’s signal contributions to fashion.
深受罗伯托·罗西里尼 (Roberto Rossellini) 和卢奇诺·维斯康蒂 (Luchino Visconti) 喜爱的女演员安娜·马格纳尼 (Anna Magnani) 为“西西里连衣裙”（该公司第四个系列的黑色衬裙）提供了灵感，该连衣裙被认为是 Dolce & Gabbana 对时尚的标志性贡献之一。
In keeping with the Dolce & Gabbana aesthetic, the Alta Gioielleria jewelry collection consists of lavishly colored, richly decorated, overstated finery.
Alta Gioielleria 珠宝系列秉承杜嘉班纳 (Dolce & Gabbana) 美学，由色彩绚丽、装饰华丽、夸张的精美饰品组成。
But the designers’ appeal is international.
但设计师的吸引力是国际性的。
“It doesn’t matter where you come from—these guys are attractive to everyone,” a client named Yvonne Christensen remarked as she chose a spot on a bench.
“无论你来自哪里，这些家伙对每个人都有吸引力，”一位名叫伊冯·克里斯滕森 (Yvonne Christensen) 的客户在长凳上选了一个位置时说道。
Christensen, like many Alta Moda clients, has a multinational identity.
克里斯滕森和许多 Alta Moda 客户一样，拥有跨国身份。
Reared in Britain, of Nigerian descent, she now lives in St. Gallen, Switzerland, with her husband, Lars Christensen—a Danish banker with whom she has five daughters.
她有尼日利亚血统，在英国长大，现在与丈夫拉斯·克里斯滕森（丹麦银行家）居住在瑞士圣加仑，他们有五个女儿。
She is the chairman of Club Supercar, a company that rents luxury cars to élite clients.
她是 Club Supercar 的董事长，这是一家向精英客户租赁豪华汽车的公司。
Some of her daughters had joined her at the Alta Moda show.
她的一些女儿和她一起参加了 Alta Moda 时装秀。
“You know how it is—they are in boarding school, they are very into what to wear,” she said.
“你知道这是怎么回事——他们在寄宿学校，他们非常注重穿什么，”她说。
To the strains of opera arias, models wearing the collection emerged.
随着歌剧咏叹调的旋律，穿着该系列的模特登场。
One gown had a skirt that was fashioned from layered peacock feathers and was so wide in circumference that it snagged on the edge of the runway.
其中一件礼服的裙子是用分层的孔雀羽毛制成的，裙子的周长很宽，以至于会卡在T台的边缘。
(Xu Ping’s neighbor deftly detached it.) Another dress was decorated with images of flowers and pumpkins—the silk fabric printed rather than painted, a technical feat.
（徐平的邻居巧妙地把它拆了下来。）另一件衣服上装饰着花朵和南瓜的图案——丝绸织物是印刷的而不是涂漆的，这是一项技术壮举。
One model showed off a patchwork fur jacket in which the pelts of various animals had been dyed vivid colors to make a fantastical new creature.
一位模特展示了一件拼凑而成的毛皮夹克，其中各种动物的毛皮被染成了鲜艳的色彩，形成了一种奇妙的新生物。
At the show’s end, most of the guests applauded, although a number were busy recording the closing parade on their phones, in order to show their choices to their respective sales associates.
演出结束时，大多数嘉宾鼓掌，尽管一些人正忙着用手机录制闭幕式，以便向各自的销售人员展示他们的选择。
Some had started texting orders during the show itself.
有些人在展会期间就开始发短信订购。
Shopping at an Alta Moda show is intensely competitive—the way it used to be at Loehmann’s, but less combative.
在 Alta Moda 时装秀上购物的竞争非常激烈——就像以前在 Loehmann’s 一样，但竞争不那么激烈了。
A dinner followed the show, served on a terrace where banquet tables had been set with golden jacquard tablecloths and gold-edged dishes.
演出结束后，晚餐在露台上举行，宴会桌上摆着金色提花桌布和金边餐具。
During the meal, the most important clients—those who have a tailor’s dummy in Milan customized to replicate their contours—were quietly invited up to the Casa San Giovanni, where half a dozen fitting rooms had been swathed in velvet.
用餐期间，最重要的客户——那些在米兰有裁缝假人定制的假人来复制他们的轮廓的人——被悄悄邀请到卡萨圣乔瓦尼，那里的六间试衣间都铺满了天鹅绒。
Among these clients was Anna Joukova, a Russian, who was wearing an embroidered opera jacket over a pair of tiny white shorts.
这些顾客中有一位俄罗斯人安娜·乔科娃(Anna Joukova)，她穿着一件绣花歌剧夹克，外面搭配一条白色小短裤。
She’d started wearing couture only recently, she explained, as her boyfriend, a Russian businessman named Efim Rozenberg, looked on.
她解释说，她最近才开始穿高级定制时装，而她的男友、一位名叫埃菲姆·罗曾伯格 (Efim Rozenberg) 的俄罗斯商人在一旁观看。
“I always thought that couture was something that you wear once in your lifetime, and then you put it very far back in your closet,” she said.
“我一直认为高级定制时装是你一生只穿一次的东西，然后你就把它放在衣柜里很远的地方，”她说。
“But then I realized that, in a moment in your life where you have a lot of everything already—jewelry, beautiful bags, a nice house—then you start getting in the mood to buy more exclusive clothes.” In the dressing room, she had tried on a three-quarter-length, high-necked lace dress with balloon sleeves, in crimson.
“但后来我意识到，在你生命中的某个时刻，你已经拥有了很多东西——珠宝、漂亮的包包、漂亮的房子——然后你就会开始有心情去买更独特的衣服。”在更衣室里，她试穿了一件四分之三长、灯笼袖高领蕾丝连衣裙，深红色。
It was Dolce & Gabbana’s Sicilian-widow look, evolved and mutated.
这是杜嘉班纳 (Dolce & Gabbana) 的西西里寡妇造型，经过演变和变异。
The dress was lovely, but she was chagrined.
这件衣服很漂亮，但她很懊恼。
“One piece from today’s show I already missed,” she said.
“今天演出中的一件作品我已经错过了，”她说。
“My neighbor was saying, ‘Oh, that is my dress.’ ”
“我的邻居说，‘哦，那是我的衣服。’”
Another Russian client, Nadia Obolentseva, was more fortunate.
另一位俄罗斯客户纳迪亚·奥博伦采娃 (Nadia Obolentseva) 则更为幸运。
She selected a dress of antique lace with what she described as “Marie Antoinette sleeves.” It was floor length, but she planned to have it tailored to be shorter.
她选择了一件古董蕾丝连衣裙，她称之为“玛丽·安托瓦内特袖子”。它是及地长度的，但她打算将其剪短一些。
Obolentseva explained that she runs an “intellectual salon” in Moscow at which writers, directors, and diplomats have spoken.
奥博伦采娃解释说，她在莫斯科经营着一个“知识沙龙”，作家、导演和外交官都在会上发表了演讲。
She first became a couture client last year, after commissioning two Alta Moda gowns for her wedding, on Lake Como, to Ayrat Iskhakov, a natural-gas industrialist.
去年，她为自己在科莫湖上与天然气实业家艾拉特·伊斯哈科夫 (Ayrat Iskhakov) 举行的婚礼委托制作了两件 Alta Moda 礼服，之后首次成为高级定制服装客户。
“It was like a dream,” she said.
“这就像一场梦，”她说。
“I had one dress that was very, very elegant—the veil was very long.
“我有一件非常非常优雅的连衣裙——头纱很长。
And then I had a second dress for the party, and it was all in flowers, and very short.
然后我为聚会准备了第二件衣服，全都是鲜花，而且很短。
I was so happy with that.”
我对此感到非常高兴。”
Dolce and Gabbana walked among the tables, treating frequent buyers and occasional ones with the same gracious attention.
杜嘉班纳 (Dolce and Gabbana) 在桌子间走来走去，以同样亲切的态度对待经常购买的顾客和偶尔购买的顾客。
“You inspire me!” Dolce said to Nayrouz Tatanaki, a quick-witted young Libyan woman, whom he dressed for her wedding in Sardinia last year.
“你激励了我！”多尔切对一位机智的利比亚年轻女子纳鲁兹·塔塔纳基 (Nayrouz Tatanaki) 说道，他去年为她在撒丁岛举行的婚礼精心打扮。
(The gown had a sixty-five-foot train, which Tatanaki detached for the reception.
（这件礼服有六十五英尺长的裙裾，塔塔纳基在接待时将其拆下。
“I got two dresses for the price of two,” she observed.) Tatanaki, whose father is an oil magnate, lives in London, where she works for the Lisson Gallery.
“我花了两件衣服的价格买了两件衣服，”她说道。）塔塔纳基住在伦敦，她的父亲是一位石油大亨，她在里森画廊工作。
She chided Dolce for the fact that the Portofino event coincided with Ramadan.
她责备多尔切，因为波托菲诺活动恰逢斋月。
Many clients from the Middle East had been unable to attend.
许多来自中东的客户未能出席。
“Next time, I will check Ramadan,” he said.
“下次我会检查斋月，”他说。
“And I will organize something special in Milan, just for everyone who could not come.”
“我将在米兰为所有不能来的人组织一些特别的活动。”
Around midnight—after the sea-bass tartare and the trofie with pesto had been eaten, and after footmen had handed out velvet purses with jewelled chain handles, as party favors—there was dancing to cheesy pop music.
午夜左右，在吃完鞑靼鲈鱼和香蒜沙司后，男仆分发了带有宝石链把手的天鹅绒钱包作为派对礼物后，人们随着俗气的流行音乐起舞。
Giorgio D’Alia, the mayor of Portofino, was sweaty and tie-less.
波托菲诺市长乔治·达利亚 (Giorgio D’Alia) 满头大汗，没系领带。
Dolce bounced surefootedly with a diminutive client from Asia.
Dolce 与一位来自亚洲的小客户的合作非常顺利。
Nadia Obolentseva, who was wearing an abbreviated gold-and-embroidery dress from last summer’s collection, stood on a chair to dance.
纳迪亚·奥博伦采娃 (Nadia Obolentseva) 身穿去年夏季系列的金色刺绣短裙，站在椅子上跳舞。
Anna Dello Russo, a fashion-magazine veteran and a favorite of fashion bloggers, stripped to Dolce & Gabbana underwear—a black bra and high-waisted panties—and crowd-surfed.
安娜·戴洛·罗素 (Anna Dello Russo) 是一位时尚杂志资深人士，也是时尚博主的最爱，她脱光衣服，穿上杜嘉班纳 (Dolce & Gabbana) 内衣——黑色文胸和高腰内裤——在人群中冲浪。
A waiter cradled a tub of pistachio gelato under one arm.
一名服务员腋下夹着一桶开心果冰淇淋。
Half a dozen professional dancers passed by, on their way to gyrate omnivorously among the guests.
六名专业舞者路过，在宾客中杂食般地旋转。
The waiter loaded a spoon with the gelato, and each dancer sucked from it in succession.
服务员把冰淇淋装进勺子，每个舞者依次吮吸。
There was none of the hurried disrobing that often happens backstage at fashion shows: each model wore just one outfit.
没有时装秀后台经常发生的匆忙脱衣服的情况：每个模特只穿一套衣服。
At two-thirty in the morning, the last clients were taking turns in the fitting rooms.
凌晨两点三十分，最后一批顾客轮流来到试衣间。
The red velvet carpet in the Casa San Giovanni was littered with torn petals.
圣乔瓦尼之家的红色天鹅绒地毯上散落着破碎的花瓣。
On a stone ledge, a dozen or more mannequin heads had been lined up, each wearing one of the extravagant headpieces that had been fashioned for the show.
在一个石架上，十几个或更多的人体模型头排成一排，每个人都戴着为这场演出制作的奢华头饰。
Arrayed on the parapet, the heads suggested the aftermath of a particularly effective night of the Terror.
这些头像排列在护墙上，暗示着恐怖之夜的后果。
My Oberon, what visions have I seen!
我的奥布朗，我看到了什么景象！
Methought I was enamor’d of an ass.
我以为我迷上了一头驴。
If you are a Russian oligarch in search of privacy, an excellent strategy is to own a yacht so ostentatious that everyone mistakes it for the yacht of a better-known oligarch.
如果你是一位寻求隐私的俄罗斯寡头，一个很好的策略就是拥有一艘如此招摇的游艇，以至于每个人都会误认为它是一位更知名的寡头的游艇。
A strong contender for the most ostentatious yacht currently at sea is the A, designed by Philippe Starck, at a cost of more than three hundred million dollars.
目前海上最华丽游艇的有力竞争者是菲利普·斯塔克 (Philippe Starck) 设计的 A 号游艇，耗资超过三亿美元。
It is almost four hundred feet long, with a distinctive upside-down prow that gives it a sinister aspect, as if it were a submarine only temporarily surfacing from the depths.
它有近四百英尺长，独特的倒置船头赋予它一种险恶的外观，就好像它是一艘只是暂时从深处浮出水面的潜艇。
When it arrived in Portofino’s bay, some onlookers confidently announced that it belonged to Roman Abramovich, the industrial tycoon and the owner of the Chelsea soccer club.
当它抵达波托菲诺海湾时，一些围观者自信地宣布它属于工业大亨、切尔西足球俱乐部老板罗曼·阿布拉莫维奇。
Who else would name his yacht A?
还有谁会给他的游艇命名为A？
And so the actual owner—Andrey Melnichenko, another Russian billionaire, who made his fortune in coal and fertilizers—remained unacknowledged.
因此，真正的所有者——另一位靠煤炭和化肥发家的俄罗斯亿万富翁安德烈·梅尔尼琴科——仍然没有得到承认。
So did his wife, Aleksandra, a former model and pop star in Serbia, who is a well-known couture client.
他的妻子亚历山德拉 (Aleksandra) 也是如此，她是一名塞尔维亚前模特和流行歌星，也是一位著名的时装客户。
All day Saturday, clients were ferried to Gabbana’s house, where fitting rooms had been set up, with enormous mirrors imported from Milan.
周六一整天，客户都被送往加巴纳的家，那里已经设立了试衣间，配有从米兰进口的巨大镜子。
Helen Wilson, of the steel-valve fortune, ordered a daytime outfit: a white peasant blouse paired with a high-waisted pink skirt that was decorated with ostrich feathers.
钢阀财富的海伦·威尔逊 (Helen Wilson) 订购了一套白天的服装：白色农家衬衫搭配饰有鸵鸟羽毛的高腰粉色裙子。
Among the most coveted items was a needlepoint jacket edged with sable: four or five clients expressed interest in it.
最令人垂涎的商品之一是一件镶有貂皮边缘的刺绣夹克：四五个客户表示对此感兴趣。
Coco Brandolini D’Adda, an aristocratic Italian-Brazilian who serves as a brand ambassador for Alta Moda, was on hand to help manage the clients’ expectations.
可可·布兰多里尼·达达 (Coco Brandolini D’Adda) 是一位意大利裔巴西贵族，担任 Alta Moda 的品牌大使，她在现场帮助管理客户的期望。
Later, she said that the jockeying among the women never rose to the level of a fight, adding, “If you buy this clothing, you already have a lot of clothing.” While the women were busy making purchases, some spouses attended to business matters.
后来她说，女性之间的争吵从未上升到打架的程度，并补充道，“如果你买了这件衣服，你就已经拥有很多衣服了。”当妇女们忙着购物时，一些配偶则忙着处理生意。
“These people—they work, they have a job,” Dolce said at one point.
“这些人——他们工作，他们有工作，”多尔切有一次说道。
“Maybe the client is the wife of some important man, who is not in the spotlight.
“也许客户是某个重要人物的妻子，但他并不处于聚光灯下。
It is not like the actresses you find in every place—these people are very private.”
这与你在任何地方看到的女演员不同——这些人非常注重隐私。”
During the early days of Dolce & Gabbana, celebrities were important for the brand.
在杜嘉班纳 (Dolce & Gabbana) 成立之初，名人对该品牌非常重要。
In 1993, Madonna commissioned the designers to make costumes for her Girlie Show Tour.
1993 年，麦当娜委托设计师为她的 Girlie Show 巡演制作服装。
The designers have not sought celebrity endorsements for Alta Moda, and don’t give the dresses away for red-carpet premières.
设计师们没有为 Alta Moda 寻求名人代言，也没有在红毯首映式上赠送这些连衣裙。
“We don’t want movie actresses or models—no way,” Dolce said.
“我们不想要电影女演员或模特——不可能，”多尔切说。
The feeling is, perhaps, mutual.
这种感觉或许是相互的。
A few weeks before the Portofino event, an Italian magazine quoted Dolce as saying that children born by I.V.F.
波托菲诺活动前几周，一家意大利杂志援引多尔切的话说，通过体外受精出生的孩子。
or surrogacy were “synthetic.” Elton John, who has two children born through surrogacy, called for a celebrity boycott of the brand, a gesture soon supported by Madonna, Victoria Beckham, and others.
或代孕是“合成的”。埃尔顿·约翰 (Elton John) 拥有两个通过代孕出生的孩子，他呼吁名人抵制该品牌，这一举措很快得到了麦当娜 (Madonna)、维多利亚·贝克汉姆 (Victoria Beckham) 等人的支持。
This, in turn, led to Gabbana calling John a “fascist” on Instagram.
这反过来又导致加巴纳在 Instagram 上称约翰为“法西斯分子”。
Gabbana also posted an image that read “Je Suis D & G,” in emulation of the slogan coined by supporters of Charlie Hebdo, the satirical magazine that was targeted by terrorists in January.
Gabbana 还发布了一张图片，上面写着“Je Suis D & G”，模仿《查理周刊》的支持者创造的口号，该杂志是一月份成为恐怖分子袭击目标的讽刺杂志。
(John rescinded the boycott after Dolce publicly apologized.)
（在多尔切公开道歉后，约翰撤销了抵制。）
It appeared that few Alta Moda clients had been deterred by the affair, and on Saturday evening the guests climbed up the Portofino peninsula once again.
看来很少有 Alta Moda 的客户被这件事吓倒，周六晚上，客人们再次登上了波托菲诺半岛。
Their destination this time was Castello Brown, a fortification turned event space situated on the highest point above the town, for a show by Alta Sartoria, Dolce & Gabbana’s bespoke collection for men.
这次他们的目的地是 Castello Brown，这是一个由防御工事改造而成的活动空间，位于城镇上方的最高点，用于举办 Dolce & Gabbana 男士定制系列 Alta Sartoria 的时装秀。
Garbis Chekerdjian, a real-estate developer and construction-company owner from Lebanon, sat with his wife, Sonia, and several compatriots at one of the tables on the castle’s bailey.
来自黎巴嫩的房地产开发商兼建筑公司老板加比斯·切克吉安 (Garbis Chekerdjian) 与妻子索尼娅 (Sonia) 以及几位同胞坐在城堡内的一张桌子旁。
He was dressed from head to toe in Dolce & Gabbana: jeans, a checked shirt, and a white hat, like a cowboy in a spaghetti Western.
他从头到脚都穿着杜嘉班纳 (Dolce & Gabbana) 的衣服：牛仔裤、格子衬衫和白帽子，就像意大利西部片中的牛仔。
The weekend’s festivities were fun, he said, but there were parties like this every night in Beirut.
他说，周末的庆祝活动很有趣，但贝鲁特每天晚上都有这样的派对。
“Beirut is the Monte Carlo of the Middle East—all the journalists are in Beirut, all the spies are in Beirut,” he said, cheerfully.
“贝鲁特是中东的蒙特卡洛——所有的记者都在贝鲁特，所有的间谍都在贝鲁特，”他高兴地说。
When male models started to emerge, Chekerdjian pointed to the sunglasses he was wearing: a tiny camera was embedded in the bridge.
当男模特开始出现时，Chekerdjian 指着他戴着的太阳镜：桥上嵌着一个微型相机。
The Alta Sartoria clothes were as flamboyant as those shown the previous night.
Alta Sartoria 的服装与前一天晚上展示的一样华丽。
A baby-blue suit with pants that were cropped at the mid-calf and richly sequinned on the thigh, like an opulent tattoo, drew gasps.
一套淡蓝色的西装，裤子剪裁到小腿中部，大腿上饰有丰富的亮片，就像华丽的纹身，引人倒吸一口凉气。
A double-breasted coat, in gray crocodile, was worn over gray silk pajamas.
灰色鳄鱼皮双排扣外套搭配灰色丝绸睡衣。
There was a sequence of heavily embroidered bathrobes: perfect for padding around a multimillion-dollar yacht.
还有一系列带有大量刺绣的浴袍：非常适合在价值数百万美元的游艇周围穿着。
The invitation for the gold party listed attributes that would be welcome: “eccentricity,” “ostentation,” “elegance.”
黄金派对的邀请函列出了受欢迎的特质：“古怪”、“炫耀”、“优雅”。
After the show, waiters offered hors d’oeuvres.
演出结束后，服务员提供了开胃小菜。
Prosciutto was sliced by an industrious fellow in a chef’s toque who had been installed in one of the castle’s smaller chambers; framed by a burnished wooden doorway, the scene evoked a Brueghel painting.
火腿是由一位戴着厨师无边帽的勤劳小伙子切的，这个无边帽安装在城堡的一个较小的房间里。这个场景被抛光的木门框住，让人想起勃鲁盖尔的画作。
Dolce and Gabbana had undertaken renovations of the castle, which had been closed to tourists in advance of the show.
杜嘉班纳 (Dolce & Gabbana) 对城堡进行了翻修，该城堡在演出前不对游客开放。
A rest room had been freshly decorated with colorful tiles, the grouting as unsullied as whitened teeth.
休息室刚刚用彩色瓷砖装饰过，水泥浆像洁白的牙齿一样干净。
A swing band began playing, and the castle’s gravel courtyard became a dance floor.
一支摇摆乐队开始演奏，城堡的砾石庭院变成了舞池。
A long-standing female client from Hamburg danced with Stefano Galli, the company’s director for V.I.P.
一位来自汉堡的长期女性客户与该公司 V.I.P. 总监 Stefano Galli 共舞。
clients and events.
客户和活动。
After retiring to a chair near the battlements, the client estimated that her Dolce & Gabbana collection took up twenty-six feet of wardrobe space, with about the same amount devoted to other vintage clothes.
在靠近城垛的椅子上休息后，客户估计她的 Dolce & Gabbana 系列占据了二十六英尺的衣柜空间，大约同样的空间用于其他复古服装。
“I have a room,” she explained.
“我有一个房间，”她解释道。
She started collecting Dolce & Gabbana in 1995, after the last of her six children was born.
1995 年，她六个孩子中的最后一个出生后，她开始收藏 Dolce & Gabbana。
“1998 was my favorite season,” she said.
“1998 年是我最喜欢的季节，”她说。
Several clients were wearing dresses with majolica patterns, which figured not only in last year’s Alta Moda collection but also in this summer’s ready-to-wear.
几位客户穿着带有珐琅图案的连衣裙，这种图案不仅出现在去年的 Alta Moda 系列中，也出现在今年夏天的成衣中。
The German client rolled her eyes at the sight.
德国客户见状翻了个白眼。
“Of course, I have it at home,” she said.
“当然，我家里有它，”她说。
“In Hamburg, it’s O.K.—no one else has it.
“在汉堡，这没关系——没有人拥有它。
If you see someone in Hamburg with the same dress, it’s just fun.
如果你在汉堡看到有人穿着同样的衣服，那就很有趣。
But here it’s awful.
但这里很糟糕。
” She was wearing vintage Dolce & Gabbana: a short sleeveless shift covered with blue and silver sequins.
她穿着复古的杜嘉班纳 (Dolce & Gabbana) 服装：一件镶有蓝色和银色亮片的短无袖连衣裙。
“I don’t choose the pieces that are so extraordinary that you can’t wear them,” she said.
“我不会选择那些非常特别以至于你不能穿的单品，”她说。
“This dress I can wear anywhere.”
“这件衣服我可以穿在任何地方。”
Gabbana, who was dressed in a T-shirt and loose polka-dotted pants, circulated among his guests with a look of relief and delight.
加巴纳穿着 T 恤和宽松的圆点裤子，一脸轻松和喜悦地在客人中走来走去。
The collections were over, and now it was time to party.
收藏结束了，现在是聚会的时候了。
Pausing on the velvet-carpeted catwalk, he scrolled through his Instagram feed.
他在铺着天鹅绒地毯的时装秀上停了下来，浏览了自己的 Instagram 动态。
A friend had posted a video clip of Anna Magnani.
一位朋友发布了安娜·马格纳尼的视频片段。
“She was our first icon,” Gabbana said, with nostalgia.
“她是我们的第一个偶像，”加巴纳怀旧地说。
The band was taking a break, and a d.j.
乐队正在休息，DJ 正在休息。
was playing Beyoncé’s “Single Ladies (Put a Ring on It).” Gabbana raised his phone to record the scene.
正在播放碧昂丝的《单身女士（戴上戒指）》。加巴纳举起手机记录下了这一幕。
Half a dozen female dancers were onstage, dressed identically in glittering flapper dresses and Louise Brooks wigs.
舞台上有六名女舞者，她们穿着一模一样的闪闪发光的摩登连衣裙，戴着路易丝·布鲁克斯的假发。
At their center was Eriko Yagi, the Japanese client with the selfie leaflets, who was dancing in a jewelled red minidress, kneesocks, and a crown.
在他们的中心是八木绘里子（Eriko Yagi），这位拿着自拍传单的日本客户，她穿着镶有珠宝的红色迷你裙、及膝袜和皇冠，正在跳舞。
Gabbana posted the video to his Instagram account, and captioned it with hearts and dancing girls—two of his favorite emojis.
加巴纳将这段视频发布到了他的 Instagram 账户上，并用心形和舞女（他最喜欢的两个表情符号）作为标题。
What masque?
什么面膜？
What music?
什么音乐？
How shall we beguile The lazy time, if not with some delight?
如果没有一些快乐，我们该如何打发慵懒的时光呢？
The invitation for the gold party listed attributes that would be welcome: “eccentricity,” “ostentation,” “elegance.” By Sunday afternoon, a few dozen outfits from the Oro collection remained in the pop-up shop.
黄金派对的邀请函列出了受欢迎的特质：“古怪”、“炫耀”、“优雅”。到周日下午，快闪店里还剩下几十件 Oro 系列的服装。
Still available was a bodysuit costing more than ten thousand dollars, encrusted from bosom to crotch with gold-colored gems, like beachwear commissioned for Aphrodite.
仍然有一套价值一万多美元的连体衣，从胸部到胯部都镶满了金色宝石，就像为阿芙罗狄蒂定制的沙滩装一样。
The party started at 11 P.M.
晚会于晚上 11 点开始。
, and was held in the Covo di Nord-Est, a night club in a seaside villa just outside Portofino.
，并在 Covo di Nord-Est 举行，这是一家位于波托菲诺郊外海滨别墅的夜总会。
The Covo has seen finer days—eighteen out of twenty-nine users of TripAdvisor have rated it as “terrible”—but in the sixties and seventies Gianni Agnelli used to drop by, as did Brigitte Bardot and Aristotle Onassis.
Covo 曾经有过美好的时光——TripAdvisor 的 29 位用户中有 18 位将其评为“糟糕”——但在六七十年代，詹尼·阿涅利 (Gianni Agnelli) 经常光顾，碧姬·芭杜 (Brigitte Bardot) 和亚里士多德·奥纳西斯 (Aristotle Onassis) 也曾去过。
Guests, arriving by water, entered the club through a grotto at the bottom of the rocky cliff.
乘水抵达的客人通过岩石悬崖底部的洞穴进入俱乐部。
Up on the dance floor, everyone had followed the dress code.
在舞池上，每个人都遵守着装要求。
Even the twenty or so members of the press who were being hosted by Dolce and Gabbana for the weekend were dressed in gold: female fashion journalists had found in their hotel wardrobes complimentary outfits from the Oro collection, which were worn with varying degrees of sheepishness.
就连周末在杜嘉班纳 (Dolce & Gabbana) 招待的 20 名左右的新闻界人士也都穿着金色的衣服：女时尚记者在她们的酒店衣柜里发现了 Oro 系列的免费服装，穿着时都带着不同程度的羞涩。
Alta Moda clients were less discomfited by the expectation of opulence.
Alta Moda 的客户并没有因为对富裕的期望而感到不安。
Mara Polizzi, from Sicily—“I do nothing,” she said, with disarming frankness—wore gold filigree shorts over a one-piece bodysuit.
来自西西里岛的玛拉·波利兹（Mara Polizzi）——“我什么也没做”，她坦率地说，令人消除戒心——在连体紧身衣外面穿着金丝短裤。
A fair, fleshy man was dressed in a striped dishdasha from the men’s show.
一个皮肤白皙、肌肉发达的男人穿着男装秀上的条纹迪达莎。
Tented cabanas had been set up with couches inside.
帐篷小屋已经搭好了，里面有沙发。
Outside one of them, a tall man with cropped hair, who was dressed in a black suit, eyed anyone who approached with unsmiling menace.
其中一间外面，一名身材高大、剪着短发、身穿黑色西装的男人，用不苟言笑的威胁目光注视着任何走近的人。
He was a security guard: the cabanas were the very important very important persons’ area.
他是一名保安：小屋是非常重要的人的区域。
Samar Hani Salha, a client from Lebanon, whose family is in real estate and construction, hovered at the entrance to one cabana.
来自黎巴嫩的客户萨马尔·哈尼·萨尔哈 (Samar Hani Salha) 在一间小屋的入口处徘徊，他的家族从事房地产和建筑业。
She was, she explained, a well-known figure at home.
她解释说，她在家里是个有名的人物。
“I’m Miss Perfect in Beirut!” she shouted, over the thud of music.
“我是贝鲁特的完美小姐！”她在音乐的轰鸣声中喊道。
Like many guests, she wore a golden tiara that she had bought at the pop-up store.
和许多客人一样，她戴着一顶在快闪店买的金色王冠。
“I’ve been shopping from morning till night,” she said.
“我从早到晚都在购物，”她说。
Before coming to Italy, she had been staying at a resort hotel in the Peloponnese.
来意大利之前，她一直住在伯罗奔尼撒半岛的一家度假酒店。
“It was gorgeous,” she said.
“太漂亮了，”她说。
“I brought cash with me.”
“我带了现金。”
A tented pavilion guarded by footmen suggested a fairy-tale atmosphere.
由仆人守卫的帐篷亭子营造出童话般的氛围。
“Disney is the best teacher for life,” Dolce said.
“迪士尼是人生最好的老师，”多尔切说。
Late in the evening, as Greek ministers in Brussels negotiated the terms of their country’s future, the revels escalated.
深夜，当希腊部长们在布鲁塞尔就国家未来的条款进行谈判时，狂欢活动升级。
Fireworks exploded over the water, culminating with the words “Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda” crackling gold against a black sky.
烟花在水面上爆炸，“Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda”字样在黑色的天空中闪烁着金色的光芒。
Male burlesque performers in spike heels danced onstage, and Kylie Minogue, in a gold mini and a towering gold headdress, sang half a dozen of her hits.
穿着高跟鞋的男性滑稽表演者在舞台上跳舞，凯莉·米洛穿着金色迷你裙，戴着高耸的金色头饰，演唱了六首她的热门歌曲。
When she broke into “Love at First Sight,” huge cutout hearts, covered with gold glitter, were passed among the guests, who waved them aloft.
当她唱起《一见钟情》时，巨大的镂空的、覆盖着金色闪光的心形在宾客之间传递，宾客们高高挥舞着它们。
A cannon shot thousands of scraps of metallic paper into the air, so that it seemed to be raining gold.
一门大炮将数千片金属纸片射向空中，看起来就像下了黄金雨。
Gabbana, in a gold tuxedo jacket, posed for selfies with an enormous gold fan behind his head.
加巴纳身穿金色燕尾服夹克，头后放着一把巨大的金色扇子摆出自拍姿势。
Nadia Obolentseva, who was wearing a gold lace dress with a brief bubble skirt, dropped to the floor and sat amid the fallen gold.
纳迪亚·奥博伦采娃（Nadia Obolentseva）穿着金色蕾丝连衣裙和泡泡短裙，跌坐在地板上，坐在掉落的金色之中。
A friend took a picture; Obolentseva posted the image to Instagram with the hashtag #nowords.
朋友拍了一张照片； Obolentseva 将这张图片发布到 Instagram，并使用标签#nowords。
As dawn drew nearer, Joseph Sitt, who had been dancing with his wife, Betty, took a break near the water.
黎明临近时，一直在和妻子贝蒂跳舞的约瑟夫·西特在水边休息了一会儿。
They had come from Brooklyn, where Sitt founded his own company, Thor Equities, almost thirty years ago.
他们来自布鲁克林，大约三十年前，西特在那里创立了自己的公司 Thor Equities。
“You know the Burlington Arcade in London?” Sitt said, wiping his brow.
“你知道伦敦的伯灵顿拱廊吗？”西特一边说，一边擦着额头。
“That’s ours.” He went on, “You remember the controversy over developing Coney Island?
“那是我们的。”他接着说：“你还记得开发科尼岛的争议吗？
We were the controversy.” (A few years ago, Sitt attempted to build a two-million-square-foot entertainment complex there.)
我们就是争议的对象。” （几年前，Sitt 试图在那里建造一座 200 万平方英尺的娱乐综合体。）
He recently leased one of Thor’s New York properties, a former firehouse in SoHo, to Dolce & Gabbana.
他最近将托尔在纽约的一处房产（苏豪区的前消防站）租给了杜嘉班纳 (Dolce & Gabbana)。
“I think Italy owes them a debt of gratitude,” he said, alluding to a government investigation of the designers that had only recently ended.
“我认为意大利欠他们一份感激之情，”他说，指的是政府最近刚刚结束的对设计师的调查。
(In 2013, both were found guilty of tax evasion, but last year Italy’s highest court overturned the convictions.) The Alta Moda weekend was “a celebration of Italy,” Sitt said, adding, “It’s vindicating them for their honesty and integrity.
（2013 年，两人都被判犯有逃税罪，但去年意大利最高法院推翻了定罪。）西特说，Alta Moda 周末是“意大利的庆祝活动”，并补充说，“这证明了他们的诚实和正直。
They would never want to hurt their country.” Sitt considers Dolce a friend.
他们永远不想伤害自己的国家。”西特将多尔切视为朋友。
“He’s true to his brand,” he said warmly.
“他忠于自己的品牌，”他热情地说。
“He eats, breathes, and—excuse the expression—shits his brand.”
“他吃东西、呼吸东西，然后——请原谅这个表达方式——毁掉了他的品牌。”
All around, the floor had grown treacherous from the slippery fallen gold, which eddied into corners, like piles of leaves.
四周的地板都因滑溜溜的金色落下而变得危险起来，它们像一堆树叶一样涡流到角落里。
On the dance floor, a few guests clutched the large golden hearts, seized as trophies.
在舞池上，几位客人紧紧抓住大金心，作为战利品。
The hearts had started shedding their glitter, which spread to the hands of the guests, then gilded their sweat-streaked faces.
心形开始散发出光芒，这些光芒蔓延到客人的手上，然后给他们满是汗水的脸镀上一层金色。
In a strange variation on the Midas story, everyone was turning to gold.
迈达斯故事的一个奇怪变体是，每个人都转向黄金。
Though the myth says that greedy Midas begged Dionysus to relieve him of his appalling power, this metamorphosis was painless and euphoric.
尽管神话称贪婪的迈达斯恳求狄俄尼索斯解除他可怕的力量，但这种转变是无痛且令人愉悦的。
Everyone only wanted more.
每个人都只想要更多。
♦
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