Going It Alone (Fenton Johnson, Harper’s)
If there’s anything worse than an old-school restaurant being uncool, it’s an old-school restaurant suddenly becoming hot.
如果有什么比老式餐厅不酷更糟糕的话，那就是一家老式餐厅突然变得热门。
Tony Valle, cashier at Forlini's; Brett Robinson, there for the event in the back room.
Tony Valle，Forlini's 收银员；布雷特·罗宾逊（Brett Robinson）在后面的房间参加活动。
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As rats scampered among trash cans by moonlight in Chinatown, a procession of tall and very good looking people started entering an old Italian restaurant on Baxter Street called Forlini’s.
月光下，当老鼠在唐人街的垃圾桶里乱窜时，一队身材高大、相貌俊美的人开始走进巴克斯特街一家名为 Forlini’s 的古老意大利餐厅。
They walked past its grand wooden doors and moved right through the stuffy chandelier-lit dining room, where middle-aged customers looked up from their veal marsala and clams casino to consider the stylish spectacle.
他们走过宏伟的木门，径直穿过吊灯照亮的闷热餐厅，中年顾客从他们的小牛肉马沙拉和蛤蜊赌场中抬起头来考虑这时尚的景象。
One of the first arrivals was a 20-year-old model/skateboarder with a million followers on Instagram.
第一批到达的人是一位 20 岁的模特/滑板运动员，在 Instagram 上拥有 100 万粉丝。
He flipped his dreadlocks to the side and strode through the place like it was a fashion runway.
他把辫子翻到一边，大步穿过这里，就像这是一条时装秀。
A thin woman wearing military boots and hoop earrings appeared next and remarked to a friend: “I’ve never been, but I keep hearing about it.
接下来出现了一位穿着军靴、戴着耳环的瘦弱女人，她对一位朋友说道：“我从来没有去过，但我一直听说过。
This is my first time.
这是我第一次。
I’m so excited to be here.” Outside, a fashion designer wearing dark sunglasses and smoking a cigarette shrieked when his date arrived, and he greeted her with a kiss on the cheek.
我很高兴来到这里。”外面，一位戴着墨镜、抽着烟的时装设计师在他的约会对象到来时尖叫起来，并在她的脸颊上亲吻了一番。
The old regulars paid their bills and left, but Forlini’s kept getting busier .
老常客付完帐就走了，弗林尼却越来越忙。
The dominant attire switched from suits and ties to haute streetwear: Opening Ceremony tote bags, jackets from Balenciaga, at least one pair of Yeezys .
主导服装从西装领带转向高级街头服饰：Opening Ceremony 手提包、Balenciaga 夹克、至少一双 Yeezy 鞋。
The beautiful people were all heading to a birthday in the rear dining room, which soon transformed into a dark lounge filled with stylists, actors, social-media influencers, magazine editors, designers, bloggers and people who didn’t appear to have jobs the next day at all.
美丽的人们都在后餐厅过生日，餐厅很快就变成了一个黑暗的休息室，里面挤满了造型师、演员、社交媒体影响者、杂志编辑、设计师、博主和第二天似乎根本没有工作的人。
Uniformed waiters frantically served calamari, stuffed artichokes and chicken Milanese.
穿着制服的服务员疯狂地供应鱿鱼、酿洋蓟和米兰鸡肉。
In one booth, a Victoria’s Secret model filmed her friends gleefully tossing rose petals into the air before posting the video to Instagram.
在一个展位上，一位维多利亚的秘密模特拍摄了她的朋友们兴高采烈地将玫瑰花瓣抛向空中的视频，然后将视频发布到了 Instagram 上。
As midnight approached, and the delights of being young and beautiful and partying in an old red sauce restaurant were possibly exhausted, everyone started heading to an after party at a bar on the Lower East Side called the Flower Shop .
临近午夜，年轻貌美的老红酱店聚会的乐趣可能已经耗尽，大家开始前往下东区一家名为“花店”的酒吧参加余兴派对。
Leading the exodus was Jordan Barrett, a 21-year-old Australian surfer who is currently one of the most in-demand male models in the world.
引领这一潮流的是 21 岁的澳大利亚冲浪运动员乔丹·巴雷特 (Jordan Barrett)，他目前是世界上最受欢迎的男模特之一。
“I’ve never heard of this restaurant before,” Mr. Barrett said.
“我以前从未听说过这家餐厅，”巴雷特先生说。
He had been there for the celebration at hand — the birthday party of a social-media influencer and creative consultant.
他参加了即将举行的庆祝活动——一位社交媒体影响者和创意顾问的生日聚会。
“I am only here for Jenné Lombardo.
“我来这里只是为了珍妮·隆巴多。
This restaurant only matters because of Jenné Lombardo.
这家餐厅之所以重要，只是因为 Jenné Lombardo。
This restaurant did not even exist before tonight.” He stepped into an SUV with his crew and disappeared into the night.
这家餐厅在今晚之前根本不存在。”他和船员们一起走进一辆SUV，消失在夜色中。
Forlini’s has actually existed since 1956.
Forlini’s 实际上自 1956 年就已存在。
A holdout from when Little Italy still extended into what would become Chinatown, the restaurant is a time capsule of old New York, and the Forlini family still runs it.
当小意大利还延伸到后来的唐人街时，这家餐厅就一直坚守着，就像老纽约的时间胶囊一样，弗利尼家族仍然经营着它。
But Forlini’s is also distinguished for its unique clientele : located down the street from the Manhattan Criminal Courts Building, it has been a canteen of choice for the courthouse crowd for decades, feeding the judges, lawyers, reporters, secretaries, court officers and bail bondsmen who work in the neighborhood.
但 Forlini's 还因其独特的客户群而闻名：位于曼哈顿刑事法院大楼的街道上，几十年来它一直是法院人群的首选餐厅，为在附近工作的法官、律师、记者、秘书、法院官员和保释担保人提供食物。
When lunch breaks at 1 p.m., Forlini’s becomes a neutral site, where prosecutors and defense attorneys enjoy chicken piccata together.
下午 1 点午休时，Forlini's 就变成了一个中立场所，检察官和辩护律师一起享用鸡肉皮卡塔。
Judges hold court from booths bearing plaques etched with their names.
法官们在刻有法官名字的牌匾上开庭。
(Actual inscription: “Judge Leslie Crocker Snyder.
（实际铭文：“莱斯利·克罗克·斯奈德法官。
Founded First Sex Crimes Prosecution Bureau in U.S. 25 Years Patron.”) Legal teams await verdicts before celebrating victories with Champagne or slinking off to the bar to wash off defeats.
在美国 25 年赞助人中成立了第一个性犯罪检察局。”）法律团队等待判决，然后用香槟庆祝胜利或溜到酒吧洗刷失败。
Robert M.
罗伯特·M。
Morgenthau, the former Manhattan district attorney, used to eat at Forlini’s twice a week, and is still referred to by the staff simply as “the Boss.”
前曼哈顿地区检察官摩根索过去每周在弗利尼餐厅吃饭两次，至今仍被工作人员简称为“老板”。
Now 99, Mr. Morgenthau visits Forlini’s less often, but he remembers the restaurant fondly.
现年 99 岁的摩根索先生很少去弗利尼餐厅，但他对这家餐厅记忆犹新。
“Forlini’s was a friendly and nonpolitical atmosphere,” he said over the phone.
“弗利尼的气氛友好且非政治性，”他在电话中说道。
“You could see people who were adversaries in court but without any hostility, and that’s why we liked it.” He added: “My favorite dish was linguine with white clam sauce.
“你可以看到法庭上的对手，但没有任何敌意，这就是我们喜欢它的原因。”他补充道：“我最喜欢的菜是白蛤酱扁面条。
Because it was the whole clam in the shell.
因为那是整个蛤蜊都在壳里。
Which was particularly good.”
这特别好。”
Now, on any given night, mixed among the stalwarts in suits and ties, you’ll find customers like Pablo Douzoglou, 34, who works for an indie music label.
现在，在任何一个晚上，你都会发现像 34 岁的巴勃罗·杜佐格鲁 (Pablo Douzoglou) 这样的顾客混杂在西装革履、打着领带的坚定支持者中，他为一家独立音乐厂牌工作。
Mr. Douzoglou took out his phone to show the Slack channel (#forlinis) he and his colleagues maintain devoted to the restaurant.
Douzoglou 先生拿出手机向他和同事们展示了有关该餐厅的 Slack 频道 (#forlinis)。
A typical message in the chat read simply: “been thinking about forlinis.”
聊天中的一条典型消息很简单：“一直在考虑福林尼斯。”
The locust descent of the young and beautiful, the skateboarders and the models, upon this Old World restaurant is also part of a grand and subversive New York tradition.
年轻漂亮的人、滑板手和模特在这家旧世界餐厅的蝗虫血统也是纽约宏伟而颠覆传统的一部分。
In a city whose famed grit is being sanded away, a certain young romantic chases authenticity.
在一座著名的勇气正在被打磨掉的城市里，一位年轻的浪漫主义者追逐着真实。
And this purity tends to be found in holdouts like Forlini’s.
这种纯洁性往往存在于像弗林尼这样的顽固分子身上。
The court crowd regulars are dimly aware of the newcomers.
法庭上的常客们对新来者的认识模糊不清。
Cynthia Sittnick, 64, a former assistant district attorney, was unwinding recently at Forlini’s.
64 岁的辛西娅·西特尼克 (Cynthia Sittnick) 是一名前助理地区检察官，最近在弗利尼酒吧 (Forlini’s) 放松身心。
She tucked into her clams oreganata and considered the new breed as an anthropological curiosity.
她吃了她的蛤蜊，并将这个新品种视为人类学的好奇心。
“So now I’m hearing that the hipsters are coming to Forlini’s,” she said.
“所以现在我听说时髦人士正在来到 Forlini's，”她说。
“I guess I get it.
“我想我明白了。
Forlini’s is so unhip it’s now become hip to them.” She cast a glance at the rustic landscapes hanging on walls.
弗利尼的风格太不时髦了，但现在对他们来说却变得时髦了。”她瞥了一眼墙上挂着的乡村风景画。
“Look, I love Forlini’s, but if someone proposed to me here, I’d probably kill them.”
“听着，我喜欢弗利尼的，但如果有人在这里向我求婚，我可能会杀了他们。”
Over at the bar, Kevin Magee, a 55-year-old police detective, nursed a beer.
55 岁的警探凯文·马吉 (Kevin Magee) 在酒吧里喝着啤酒。
“They come in at night,” he said.
“他们晚上进来，”他说。
“That’s when you see them.
“那就是你看到他们的时候。
You’ll have old people talking with the young hipsters from the neighborhood.
你会看到老人与附近的年轻潮人交谈。
Swedish models dancing with their boyfriends.
瑞典模特与男友跳舞。
I heard one tell her friend they’re in a ‘hidden gem.’”
我听到有人告诉她的朋友，他们正处于一颗‘隐藏的宝石’中。”
At a table nearby, Jonathan Rosenberg, 32, a criminal defense lawyer, forked into some lasagna.
32 岁的刑事辩护律师乔纳森·罗森伯格 (Jonathan Rosenberg) 在附近的一张桌子旁吃了一些烤宽面条。
“If you want to do business, you go to Forlini’s,” he said.
“如果你想做生意，就去 Forlini’s，”他说。
“If you want to avoid work, you go to Forlini’s.
“如果你想逃避工作，你可以去 Forlini’s。
And if you want to show off to your hipster friends, now you also go to Forlini’s.” He continued with an academic air: “I think hipsters are desperate for places no one knows about but that everyone talks about.
如果你想向你的时髦朋友炫耀，现在你也可以去 Forlini’s。”他带着一种学术气息继续说道：“我认为潮人渴望那些没人知道但每个人都在谈论的地方。
You’re not supposed to be at Forlini’s as a millennial, so I think that’s what makes it cool for them.
作为千禧一代，你不应该去 Forlini's，所以我认为这对他们来说很酷。
It becomes counterculture.”
它变成了反文化。”
Interest in Forlini’s undeniably accelerated last May after Vogue magazine hosted its lavish pre-Met Gala party there.
去年五月，《Vogue》杂志在 Forlini 举办了盛大的 Met Gala 前派对后，人们对 Forlini 的兴趣无疑加速了。
Alexa Chung, Kate Bosworth and Hailey Baldwin attended, a D.J.
艾里珊·钟 (Alexa Chung)、凯特·波茨沃斯 (Kate Bosworth) 和海莉·鲍德温 (Hailey Baldwin) 出席，DJ
played until morning, and the event had its own hashtag: “ #spaghettiandMetballs .”
一直持续到早上，该活动有自己的主题标签：“#spaghettiandMetballs”。
The Forlini’s selfie became a coveted social media accomplishment shortly after the spectacle.
这场奇观发生后不久，弗利尼的自拍照就成为社交媒体上令人垂涎的成就。
Recently, a Vogue writer named Brooke Bobb happened to be dining at Forlini’s, and she had some thoughts on the phenomenon.
最近，一位名叫布鲁克·博布（Brooke Bobb）的《Vogue》杂志撰稿人恰巧在 Forlini's 餐厅就餐，她对这一现象有了一些想法。
“It’s becoming a spot,” said Ms. Bobb, 31.
“它正在成为一个地方，”31 岁的博布女士说。
“One of those places that has become Instagrammable.
“其中一个已经成为 Instagram 上热门的地方。
It’s not really about the food.
这与食物无关。
It’s about looking cool on the couches.
这是为了在沙发上看起来很酷。
Getting a million likes from sitting in the booths and posing like models.
坐在展位上摆出模特的姿势，获得了一百万个赞。
That’s just what happens when something goes viral now.”
这就是当某些事情现在像病毒一样传播时会发生的事情。”
In the background of these selfies with people posing like models are paintings of the Northern Italian countryside that depict Groppallo, the mountain village that Joseph Forlini emigrated from in 1938.
在这些自拍的背景中，人们摆出模特的姿势，背景是意大利北部乡村的画作，描绘了格罗帕洛 (Groppallo)，这是约瑟夫·福利尼 (Joseph Forlini) 1938 年移居的山村。
He opened a restaurant in Little Italy in 1943, and over a decade later his sons started Forlini’s at 93 Baxter Street.
1943 年，他在小意大利开设了一家餐厅，十多年后，他的儿子们在巴克斯特街 93 号开设了 Forlini’s。
Today, third generation cousins, Joe and Derek Forlini, run the restaurant.
如今，这家餐厅由第三代表兄弟 Joe 和 Derek Forlini 经营。
“My father always used to say, ‘We came from Italy with nothing, and now judges know me by name,’” said Derek, 60.
“我父亲总是说，‘我们从意大利来到，一无所有，现在法官都知道我的名字了，’”60 岁的德里克说。
He recalled how the summer of Forlini’s began when he got a call from Vogue last spring.
他回忆起去年春天接到《Vogue》杂志的电话时，Forlini 的夏天是如何开始的。
“We want your restaurant,” said the caller.
“我们想要你们的餐厅，”来电者说。
“We want to close you down on a Saturday.”
“我们想在周六关闭你们。”
“I don’t want to close on Saturday, to be honest,” he replied.
“说实话，我不想周六关门，”他回答道。
“Well, what would it take to make that happen?” the caller asked.
“那么，要怎样做才能实现这一点呢？”来电者问道。
“So I threw them a number,” he continued.
“所以我给了他们一个数字，”他继续说道。
“Figured she’d walk away.
“以为她会走开。
But she said yes.
但她说是的。
Then she said they needed to come in early.
然后她说他们需要早点进来。
I asked why.
我问为什么。
She said: ‘Well, we need to prep.
她说：‘好吧，我们需要做好准备。
We have to prep.’”
我们必须做好准备。’”
Since that May evening, a dozen stylish parties that have lasted until daybreak have been booked at the restaurant.
自五月的那个晚上以来，餐厅已经预订了十几场一直持续到天亮的时尚派对。
“I even got one this coming Monday, in fact,” Mr. Forlini said.
“事实上，我什至在下周一收到了一份，”福利尼先生说。
“They told me they want to do it identical to the Vogue party and want the same stuff on the menu.” As for their fresh-faced visitors, Forlini’s has nothing but kind words.
“他们告诉我，他们想要举办与《Vogue》派对相同的活动，并且希望菜单上有同样的东西。”对于新来的访客，弗利尼除了客气的话语之外什么也没有。
“They’re all nice kids,” said Mr. Forlini.
“他们都是好孩子，”福利尼先生说。
“Good kids.
“好孩子。
They’ve never caused trouble.
他们从来没有惹过麻烦。
Some are so thin though you wonder how they can even drink liquor.”
有些人很瘦，你甚至想知道他们怎么能喝酒。”
On a recent summer evening, the court crowd had left, the stylish people had yet to arrive, and a group of writers and artists had the restaurant to themselves.
最近的一个夏日傍晚，宫廷人群已离去，时尚人士尚未到来，餐厅里只剩下一群作家和艺术家。
They didn’t see themselves as newcomers: they had discovered the place before the models and the Instagram crew, and they felt a proprietary claim to the spot.
他们并不认为自己是新来者：他们先于模特和 Instagram 工作人员发现了这个地方，并且觉得自己对这个地方拥有专有权利。
Sara Blazej, 29, and Josh Citarella, 31, sat at this lively table in the main dining room.
29 岁的萨拉·布拉泽伊 (Sara Blazej) 和 31 岁的乔什·西塔雷拉 (Josh Citarella) 坐在主餐厅这张热闹的桌子旁。
They run an art gallery out of their apartment nearby, and Forlini’s has become their favorite haunt.
他们在附近的公寓里经营着一家艺术画廊，弗利尼的画廊成了他们最喜欢去的地方。
“We like it here because it doesn’t have the sleek, overpriced feel of the Lower East Side,” Ms. Blazej said.
“我们喜欢这里，因为它没有下东区那种时尚、价格过高的感觉，”布拉泽伊女士说。
“It’s also not filled with …” She whispered the rest of her thought.
“它也没有充满……”她低声说出了剩下的想法。
“Well, I don’t want to use the word, but: hipsters.”
“好吧，我不想用这个词，但是：潮人。”
Mr. Citarella huffed.
西塔雷拉先生哼了一声。
“The skater kids will be here soon,” he added ruefully.
“滑冰的孩子们很快就会来这里，”他悲伤地补充道。
“I’m certain of it.”
“我确信这一点。”
Seated further down the table was an actress named Sheila Vand.
坐在桌子下面的是一位名叫希拉·范德 (Sheila Vand) 的女演员。
She sipped wine as a male model walked into the restaurant; he acknowledged nobody and stared hard ahead as he strode toward a private dinner starting in the restaurant’s back room.
她喝着酒，一名男模特走进餐厅；他没有认出任何人，眼睛盯着前方，大步走向餐厅后面的私人晚宴。
“I follow that guy on Instagram,” Ms. Vand said.
“我在 Instagram 上关注了那个人，”范德女士说。
“He’s going to think he looks cool every time he walks past us.
“每次他走过我们身边时，他都会觉得自己看起来很酷。
But who even is he?
但他究竟是谁？
I’m pretty sure he does nothing.
我很确定他什么也没做。
He’s Instagram famous.
他在 Instagram 上很出名。
He’s just one more kid with an Instagram account.”
他只是又一个拥有 Instagram 账户的孩子。”
She described her affection for Forlini’s.
她描述了她对弗利尼的喜爱。
“I’m a transplant,” she said.
“我是移植者，”她说。
“I came here from the West Coast.
“我从西海岸来到这里。
What the hell happened to the New York that I was promised?
答应我的纽约到底发生了什么？
A city that is raw and real?
一座原始而真实的城市？
Now I pay thousands of dollars for an apartment, and what did I get?
现在我花了几千美元买了一套公寓，我得到了什么？
Williamsburg?
威廉斯堡？
Finance bros and hipsters?
金融兄弟和潮人？
I’m twisting someone’s arm every night just to go out and dance and have a good time.
我每天晚上都会挽着某人的手臂，只是为了出去跳舞，玩得开心。
This place still has character.”
这个地方仍然有特色。”
Her friend chimed in.
她的朋友插话道。
“We should start going to Spain ,” she said.
“我们应该开始去西班牙，”她说。
“No finance bros there.”
“那里没有财务兄弟。”
A month later, summer started to wane and the fate of Forlini’s was unclear: Was it over already?
一个月后，夏天开始消退，弗利尼的命运还不明朗：一切已经结束了吗？
A lunchtime visit suggested its allure remained intoxicating.
午餐时间的参观表明它的魅力仍然令人陶醉。
Joe Forlini, 65, counted up cash in the restaurant’s cluttered office.
65 岁的乔·弗利尼 (Joe Forlini) 在餐厅杂乱的办公室里清点现金。
And Phoenix Johnson, 23, entered the restaurant to order some pappardelle Bolognese.
23 岁的菲尼克斯·约翰逊 (Phoenix Johnson) 走进餐厅，点了一些肉酱宽面。
When the dish arrived, Mr. Johnson stood on top of his chair and started photographing the meal.
当菜端上来时，约翰逊先生站在椅子上开始拍摄这顿饭。
Mr. Forlini walked by and chided him.
弗利尼先生走过来责备他。
“You gotta eat the pappardelle before doing that!” he said.
“在做这件事之前你必须先吃意大利宽面！”他说。
The young man smiled before adjusting some noodles on the plate with his hand.
青年笑了笑，伸手整理了盘子里的面条。
Later, Mr. Forlini passed by, more distressed.
后来，弗利尼先生路过，更加心疼了。
“You going to eat that?” he said.
“你要吃那个吗？”他说。
“It’s getting cold.”
“天气变冷了。”
“I’m sorry to tell you this,” said Mr. Johnson.
“我很遗憾地告诉你这一点，”约翰逊先生说。
“But probably not.”
“但可能不会。”