Death Takes the Lagoon
Ariel Saramandi on the sinking of the MV Wakashio off the coast of Mauritius.
阿里尔·萨拉曼迪 (Ariel Saramandi) 目睹 MV Wakashio 在毛里求斯海岸沉没。
Grainy pictures flash on our phones on the night of 25 July.
7 月 25 日晚上，我们的手机上闪现出颗粒状的照片。
A ship’s crashed on the reef in Pointe d’Esny, the messages read.
消息中写道，一艘船在埃斯尼角的礁石上坠毁。
I pinch and splay the photos with my fingers.
我用手指捏合并展开照片。
I can make out the ship’s frame, yellow glimmers of light, but not much else.
我可以辨认出船体，黄色的微光，但除此之外就没什么了。
We set out to see the ship for ourselves the next day.
第二天我们就出发去亲眼看看这艘船。
There’s only one coastal road in Pointe d’Esny and it is clogged.
Pointe d’Esny 只有一条沿海道路，而且很拥堵。
People from around the island have driven to see the ship.
岛上的人们纷纷开车来看这艘船。
They’ve parked their cars at random – there are no proper parking spaces here.
他们把车随意停放——这里没有合适的停车位。
‘This is what happens when you try to block public access to the beach,’ I tell my husband Antoine.
“当你试图阻止公众进入海滩时，就会发生这种情况，”我告诉我的丈夫安托万。
Pointe d’Esny is infamously exclusive.
Pointe d’Esny 是出了名的独特。
The superbly wealthy inhabitants of this stretch of coast would like the beach to be as private as possible.
这片海岸的超级富有的居民希望海滩尽可能私密。
To get to the public beach you must cross the road and walk through a narrow path set between two grand houses, described only last year by a newspaper as a ‘corridor of shame’.
要到达公共海滩，您必须穿过马路，穿过两座大房子之间的一条狭窄小路，去年才被一家报纸描述为“耻辱走廊”。
1 Once there you deal with the infuriated faces of some of the residents, who make a point of walking up and down the shore.
1 到达那里后，您会遇到一些居民愤怒的表情，他们特意在海岸上来回走动。
Some of my friends have been harassed by bungalow owners and their dogs, screamed away.
我的一些朋友被平房主人和他们的狗骚扰，尖叫着走开。
But no screams can turn this crowd away, nor the weather – battering winds and rain can’t stop us from congregating on the beach to watch the wreck.
但尖叫声无法驱散这群人，天气也无法阻止我们聚集在海滩上观看沉船事故。
I thought it’d be smaller.
我以为它会更小。
A medium-sized vessel, not a cargo ship.
中型船只，不是货船。
I am stunned by the MV Wakashio’s immensity: longer than the Titanic, almost as long as the Eiffel Tower.
MV Wakashio 的巨大让我震惊：比泰坦尼克号还要长，几乎和埃菲尔铁塔一样长。
Kitesurfers glide across the lagoon, colourful little specks against the hulking metal.
风筝冲浪者滑过泻湖，在巨大的金属上留下色彩缤纷的小斑点。
My son, who has just turned seven months old, flaps his arms in the wind in delight.
我的儿子刚刚满七个月，高兴地在风中挥舞着双臂。
None of us were sure what a cargo ship was doing so close to our shores.
我们谁都不确定一艘货船在如此靠近我们海岸的地方做什么。
Hundreds of thousands of ships pass by Mauritius every year: we’re a dot along a strategic, bustling shipping route.
每年有数十万艘船只经过毛里求斯：我们是一条战略性、繁忙的航线上的一个点。
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‘We have the expertise to deal with this, don’t we?’ I said, staring at the vessel.
“我们有处理这个问题的专业知识，不是吗？”我盯着那艘船说道。
‘Contingency plans.
‘应急计划。
Help from the United Nations or whatever.
来自联合国或其他机构的帮助。
It’d be impossible not to have a plan, right?’ I remembered the grounding of the MV Benita four years ago.
没有计划是不可能的，对吧？”我记得四年前 MV Benita 停飞的事。
The ship had crashed into a reef a few kilometres south from here, after a possible mutiny onboard.
在船上可能发生叛变后，这艘船在距这里以南几公里处撞上了礁石。
The oil was pumped out, the ship salvaged from the lagoon.
石油被抽出，船从泻湖中被打捞出来。
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‘Yeah,’ Antoine answers.
“是的，”安托万回答。
‘Some of the residents told me they saw officials going over to the ship in helicopters and boats, rescuing the crew, examining the hull for damage.
“一些居民告诉我，他们看到官员乘坐直升机和船只前往这艘船，营救船员，检查船体是否有损坏。
Lights flashing all night long.’
灯光整夜闪烁。
We wait for an announcement from the government, an action plan, but the days pass by in a kind of stupor.
我们等待政府的公告、行动计划，但日子就在一种恍惚中过去了。
The government had been so swift in tackling the pandemic: after three months of lockdown we remerged from our homes, safe in the knowledge that there were no active cases among us except for those returning from abroad, residing in specialised quarantine centres.
政府在应对这一流行病方面非常迅速：经过三个月的封锁，我们重新回到家中，因为我们知道，除了那些从国外返回并居住在专门检疫中心的人之外，我们中间没有活跃病例。
Three-hundred-and-thirty-four confirmed cases, ten deaths.
确诊病例三百三十四例，死亡十例。
Like the pandemic, the crash of the Wakashio wasn’t inconceivable.
与新冠疫情一样，若潮号的坠毁也并非不可想象。
There were precedents.
有先例。
We were prepared.
我们做好了准备。
Surely, we were prepared.
当然，我们已经做好了准备。
But several high-profile corruption cases had blasted the island in July.
但七月份，几起引人注目的腐败案件震惊了该岛。
Public trust in the government was smashed after it was revealed that officials made money over the bodies of the sick and the dying.
在官员利用病人和垂死者的尸体赚钱的消息被揭露后，公众对政府的信任被彻底摧毁。
Suspicious suppliers were contracted during Covid-19, selling medical equipment at extortionate prices when other cost-friendly alternatives were available.
在 Covid-19 期间，可疑供应商签订了合同，在有其他成本友好的替代品的情况下以过高的价格销售医疗设备。
There was also a fraud case involving 700 million Mauritian rupees and members of parliament.
还发生了一起涉及7亿毛里求斯卢比和议会议员的诈骗案。
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We aren’t sure what kinds of corruption one could profit from during the grounding of a ship.
我们不确定在一艘船搁浅期间人们可以从哪些类型的腐败中获利。
We hear talk of insurance claims and foreign responsibility.
我们听到有关保险索赔和外国责任的讨论。
But there’s so much more money to be had in expediting that ship out of our waters, in preserving our coasts.
但是，为了加快这艘船离开我们的水域、保护我们的海岸，还需要更多的资金。
We have our superlative reputation to protect, after all: some of the world’s clearest lagoons, most pristine ecosystems, healthiest fish.
毕竟，我们有最高的声誉需要保护：世界上最清澈的泻湖、最原始的生态系统、最健康的鱼类。
Tourism is the heart of the economy.
旅游业是经济的核心。
The majority of the island’s most opulent hotels are found on the east coast.
岛上大多数最豪华的酒店都位于东海岸。
Plus, the government is heavily invested in the fishing industry.
此外，政府对渔业进行了大量投资。
Our fish exports are a 250-million-dollar business, and parastatal fish farms dot the south-eastern lagoon.
我们的鱼类出口是一项价值 2.5 亿美元的业务，半国营养鱼场遍布东南部泻湖。
5 We are confident that the Wakashio will be removed imminently from the reef: it’s in the government’s self-interest.
5 我们相信若潮将立即从珊瑚礁上消失：这符合政府的自身利益。
We hear talk of international assistance and are reassured.
我们听到有关国际援助的言论并感到放心。
Meanwhile, images show filaments of an oily substance on the shore.
与此同时，图像显示岸边有油状物质的细丝。
Then images show the ship beginning to tilt.
然后图像显示船开始倾斜。
The Minister of Fisheries said the photos ‘appeared to be manipulated and deceptive.’ ‘The ship is not sinking and will not sink,’ he said on 5 August 2020.
渔业部长表示，这些照片“似乎是经过处理和欺骗的”。“这艘船没有下沉，也不会下沉，”他于 2020 年 8 月 5 日表示。
6 All is under control.
6 一切都在掌控之中。
The next day thick black streaks coat our lagoon.
第二天，我们的泻湖上覆盖着厚厚的黑色条纹。
Oil like lacquer on the water.
水上如油如漆。
Pointe d’Esny: a bay framed by mountains, a lagoon iridescent with shades of blue and violet, water translucent when it is still.
Pointe d’Esny：群山环抱的海湾，泻湖呈彩虹般的蓝色和紫色，静止时水呈半透明状。
Grapefruit-hued sunrises and plump, long beaches.
葡萄柚色的日出和肥美而长的海滩。
Before the oil spill, I thought that the greatest risk to our coasts was climate change.
在漏油事件发生之前，我认为我们海岸面临的最大风险是气候变化。
I spent my childhood swimming in Blue Bay, the marine park that lies next to Pointe d’Esny.
我的童年是在蓝湾游泳度过的，蓝湾是位于埃斯尼角 (Pointe d’Esny) 旁边的海洋公园。
Twenty years ago, fish accompanied every movement you made underwater.
二十年前，鱼伴随着你在水下的每一个动作。
Angelfish, butterfly fish , sleek pavillon cocher burst from coral so richly chromatic that I’d have doubted my memory of the sight, had it not been confirmed by everyone else who’d swum in Blue Bay at the time.
神仙鱼、蝴蝶鱼、光滑的pavillon cocher从珊瑚中迸发出来，色彩如此丰富，如果不是当时在蓝湾游泳的其他人都证实了这一点，我都会怀疑自己对这一景象的记忆。
The fish overwhelmed my vision, a fin away from my goggles, whorls around my body.
鱼淹没了我的视野，鱼鳍距离我的护目镜很远，在我的身体周围盘旋。
The last time I went swimming in Pointe d’Esny was February 2019, a month before I became pregnant.
我上次去埃斯尼角游泳是在 2019 年 2 月，也就是我怀孕前一个月。
At the time, my main concern in the waters was encroaching jellyfish, which had smothered every other coastline around the island.
当时，我在这片水域主要担心的是水母的入侵，它们已经淹没了岛屿周围的所有其他海岸线。
Pointe d’Esny was clear.
埃斯尼角很清楚。
Antoine and I snorkelled across the lagoon, prodded each other underwater when we spotted signs of health: red- and blue-tipped corals, sunflower-yellow anemones, pink planes of Acropora cytherea.
安托万和我在泻湖上浮潜，当我们发现健康的迹象时，我们在水下互相刺激：红尖和蓝尖的珊瑚、向日葵黄的海葵、粉红色的鹿角珊瑚。
We detected an unusual starfish, deep purple and tentacular, the largest I’d ever seen, echinate, with spikes like a sea urchin.
我们发现了一种不寻常的海星，深紫色，有触手，是我见过的最大的海星，有刺，有像海胆一样的尖刺。
Later I found out that the starfish’s name is crown of thorns, and they were erupting in number across the lagoon.
后来我才知道，这种海星的名字叫荆棘王冠，它们的数量在泻湖中大量涌现。
They eat hard coral, and just one is able to devour ten meters squared of coral a year.
它们以硬珊瑚为食，一年仅能吃掉十平方米的珊瑚。
The creatures were of great concern when I visited Reef Conservation Mauritius later that month.
当月晚些时候我访问毛里求斯珊瑚礁保护组织时，这些生物受到了极大的关注。
They told me that the reef was sick, spoke of the necessity of a coral bleaching alert system, the necessity of planting the right coastal vegetation, mangroves, seagrass systems, rehabilitating reefs, zoning lagoons.
他们告诉我珊瑚礁病了，谈到了珊瑚白化警报系统的必要性、种植正确的沿海植被、红树林、海草系统、恢复珊瑚礁、划分泻湖的必要性。
Reef Conservation have an educational touring bus called bis lamer.
珊瑚礁保护组织有一辆名为 bis lamer 的教育旅游巴士。
It teaches the public at large about our coastal and marine environments, climate change, conservation efforts.
它向广大公众介绍我们的沿海和海洋环境、气候变化和保护工作。
I wish the initiative had existed when I was a child.
我希望当我还是个孩子的时候就有这样的倡议。
If I had attended one of the talks, maybe I would have spared the starfish I killed when I was six years old or so.
如果我参加了其中一次讲座，也许我就能幸免于我六岁时杀死的海星。
My parents had rented a bungalow in Pointe d’Esny for a week.
我的父母在埃斯尼角租了一间平房，住了一个星期。
In the mornings I’d walk along the shore, throwing starfish back into the bay.
早上我会沿着海岸散步，把海星扔回海湾。
One morning I thought of keeping one of the starfish for myself.
一天早上，我想为自己保留一只海星。
I thought that if it left the ocean it’d turn into clay, just like the starfish I’d seen sold in shops.
我想，如果它离开海洋，就会变成粘土，就像我在商店里看到的海星一样。
I hadn’t understood that it would die.
我不明白它会死。
I brought it back onto the veranda, let it dry on a slice of basalt rock.
我把它带回阳台，让它在一片玄武岩上干燥。
By noon it had started to rot.
到了中午，它就开始腐烂了。
‘That’s death,’ my mother told me, throwing the starfish in the bin.
“这就是死亡，”我母亲一边告诉我，一边把海星扔进了垃圾箱。
‘That’s the smell of death.
‘那是死亡的味道。
Never do that again.’
永远不要再这样做了。
Now death smells of tar and acid.
现在死亡充满了焦油和酸的味道。
It burns eyes, throats, it makes us sick, makes us faint.
它会灼伤眼睛、喉咙，让我们生病、晕倒。
Not even the crown of thorns could have survived its onslaught.
就连荆棘王冠也无法在这场猛攻中幸存下来。
‘We should have gone swimming around Pointe d’Esny more often,’ I tell Antoine, as the news of the spill comes in.
当泄漏事件的消息传来时，我告诉安托万：“我们应该更经常地在埃斯尼角游泳。”
‘We should have gone every weekend.
“我们应该每个周末都去。
We should have taken more pictures.’ As I speak I realise that I am already memorialising the place.
我们应该拍更多照片。’当我说话时，我意识到我已经在纪念这个地方了。
Was the sea dead?
海死了吗？
Can a sea die?
海会死吗？
No one sleeps on the night of the spill.
泄漏事件发生的当晚没有人睡觉。
We examine aerial photos of the pitiful rubber booms placed by the government.
我们检查了政府放置的可怜的橡胶栅栏的航拍照片。
They look like a child’s drawing of a bird, two curves containing almost nothing of the oil.
它们看起来就像儿童画的一只鸟，两条曲线几乎不含任何油。
Flecks of rubber in the sea that didn’t even surround the ship, that weren’t even correctly placed.
海里的橡胶斑点甚至没有包围船，甚至没有正确放置。
We are incensed.
我们很愤怒。
Enraged kitesurfers and grieving fishermen describe how authorities hadn’t taken their knowledge of the sea’s currents into consideration.
愤怒的风筝冲浪者和悲伤的渔民描述了当局如何没有考虑到他们对海流的了解。
‘They wouldn’t listen to us,’ these men repeat.
“他们不听我们的，”这些人重复道。
A citizen-led action plan is developed and implemented before dawn.
黎明前制定并实施了一项由公民主导的行动计划。
A Marxist political party and activist group sets up a base on the Mahebourg waterfront.
一个马克思主义政党和活动团体在马埃堡海滨建立了一个基地。
Sometime after midnight they successfully absorb oil using a natural boom prototype they make out of nets and dried sugarcane leaves.
午夜过后的某个时候，他们利用用网和干甘蔗叶制作的天然繁荣原型成功地吸收了石油。
By morning hundreds of volunteers come to Mahebourg to help.
早上，数百名志愿者来到马埃堡提供帮助。
Word spreads, and in the hours that follow boom-making stations are set up across the island.
消息传开，接下来的几个小时内，全岛各地都设立了繁荣站。
Some are helmed by private enterprises, others by students; some stations are in sugarcane factories, others right by the sea.
有的由私营企业掌舵，有的由学生掌舵；有些车站位于甘蔗工厂内，有些则位于海边。
Some experiment with different boom fillings: hair seems to work just as well as cane, inspiring Mauritians throughout the country to chop and shave for the cause.
一些人尝试了不同的吊杆填充物：头发似乎和手杖一样有效，激励全国各地的毛里求斯人为此目的砍头和剃须。
Thousands of Mauritians stuff and knit booms in the next two weeks, some working all night long.
数以千计的毛里求斯人将在接下来的两周内进行编织工作，其中一些人通宵达旦地工作。
Emcees motivate, musicians come to play for free.
主持人激励，音乐家免费表演。
Some people set up makeshift food stalls, feeding the volunteers.
有些人搭建了临时小吃摊，为志愿者提供食物。
Doctors treat those who’ve come into contact with the oil.
医生对那些接触过这种油的人进行治疗。
Those with the necessary expertise don protective equipment and submerge their bodies in the sea, cleaning oil from the water, pouring it into large plastic buckets.
那些具备必要专业知识的人穿上防护装备，将身体浸入海中，清除水中的石油，将其倒入大塑料桶中。
A photo of Thierry Jollivet makes the rounds: the professional diver’s face is matted in oil but the area around his eyes is clean.
蒂埃里·若利韦 (Thierry Jollivet) 的一张照片广为流传：这位专业潜水员的脸上沾满了油污，但眼睛周围的区域却很干净。
He looks straight at the camera, his look not one of despair but of can-do courage.
他直视镜头，表情不是绝望，而是充满进取的勇气。
Another image goes viral: a meme, a dog taking itself out for a walk, its leash in its mouth.
另一张图片在网上疯传：一条表情包，一只狗嘴里叼着皮带，独自出去散步。
It encapsulates the spirit of the moment.
它概括了当下的精神。
We’ll have to lead ourselves, I see written time and time again on social media.
我们必须领导自己，我在社交媒体上一次又一次地看到这样的文字。
The government won’t help.
政府不会提供帮助。
It’s up to us.
这取决于我们。
Memes are never innocuous in Mauritius.
在毛里求斯，模因从来都不是无害的。
If you send or post a message on the internet that the government deems an ‘annoyance’, you can be imprisoned for up to ten years.
如果您在互联网上发送或发布政府认为“令人烦恼”的消息，您可能会被判处最高十年的监禁。
7 There’s an extensive track record of citizens being arrested for ‘annoyances’.
7 有大量公民因“滋扰”而被捕的记录。
New laws introduced during the pandemic now enable the police to enter your home and arrest you without a warrant.
大流行期间出台的新法律现在允许警察在没有逮捕令的情况下进入您的家并逮捕您。
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The prime minister hasn’t shown his face in Mahebourg since the spill.
自漏油事件发生以来，总理就没有在马埃堡露面。
There’s hardly any word at all from the government.
政府几乎没有任何消息。
It’s unclear what they are doing to help.
目前还不清楚他们正在做什么来提供帮助。
They issued a communiqué three days after the spill banning citizens from gathering in ‘restricted’ areas affected by oil, effectively making the citizen clean-up operations illegal.
漏油事件三天后，他们发布了一份公报，禁止公民聚集在受石油影响的“限制”区域，这实际上使公民清理行动非法。
We’re breaking the law just by making booms on the coast.
我们仅仅在海岸上制造繁荣就违反了法律。
We grow more courageous as we knit, type, talk to each other.
当我们编织、打字、互相交谈时，我们变得更加勇敢。
We feel bolstered by the international press who cover the disaster closely.
密切报道这场灾难的国际媒体让我们感到鼓舞。
They’re not going to arrest us with the world watching, we think.
我们认为，他们不会在全世界的注视下逮捕我们。
We gather as much information as we can, we speculate.
我们推测，我们收集了尽可能多的信息。
We’re not told how much oil has leaked from the ship, though it’s estimated at around a thousand tonnes.
我们不知道有多少石油从船上泄漏，但估计约为一千吨。
We wonder why the government took no action when the ship crashed onto the reef.
我们想知道为什么当船撞上礁石时政府没有采取行动。
Why no oil fingerprinting or other tests had been carried out.
为什么没有进行油指纹或其他测试。
We wonder if the ship was carrying something suspicious.
我们想知道这艘船是否载有可疑的东西。
Officials say bad weather stopped them from pumping the oil out.
官员们表示，恶劣的天气阻止了他们将石油抽出。
The meteorological report says the weather was mostly fine.
气象报告称天气基本晴朗。
There are reports that the Wakashio could have been tugged out of the reef on the day of the crash.
有报道称若潮号可能是在坠机当天被从礁石中拖出的。
Anonymous sources at the port say that the disaster was the result of ‘total negligence’.
港口的匿名消息人士称，这场灾难是“完全疏忽”造成的。
We still won’t have any answers three months later.
三个月后我们仍然得不到任何答案。
But we don’t know that yet.
但我们还不知道。
We’re not thinking about what happens in three months.
我们不会考虑三个月后会发生什么。
We knit furiously.
我们疯狂地编织。
We’re told that the ship could break apart at any moment.
我们被告知这艘船随时可能解体。
A news station helicopters over to the wreck and films a short video, where we hear the sharp, eerie sound of the hull slowly ripping apart.
一架新闻台直升机飞向沉船并拍摄了一段短片，我们听到船体慢慢撕裂的尖锐而怪异的声音。
9
9
It took the worst ecological disaster in our history to bring us all together like this, all ethnicities, all social classes side by side, knitting, cleaning.
经过我们历史上最严重的生态灾难，我们才像这样聚集在一起，所有种族、所有社会阶层并肩工作，编织、清洁。
I say ‘us’, I write ‘we’, but I can’t participate.
我说‘我们’，我写‘我们’，但我不能参与。
It’s unsafe to bring young children near the site of the spill, or to the boom-making stations.
将幼儿带到泄漏现场或爆炸站附近是不安全的。
I hardly sleep, restless.
我几乎睡不着，心神不宁。
I too want to help with my hands.
我也想用手帮忙。
I start a Twitter thread, outlining essential information.
我启动了一个 Twitter 帖子，概述了重要信息。
I read all the newspapers, the interviews with fishermen and those on the scene, translate and describe each day’s events, sometimes hour by hour.
我阅读所有的报纸、对渔民和现场人员的采访，翻译和描述每天发生的事件，有时甚至是每小时。
I feel productive.
我感觉很有成效。
‘She thinks she’s some kind of reporter,’ laugh my parents, as I go through the newspapers and radio programmes during Sunday lunch.
“她认为自己是某种记者，”当我在周日午餐时浏览报纸和广播节目时，我的父母笑着说。
But then I do become a reporter, for NBC.
但后来我确实成为了 NBC 的一名记者。
There is no time for pride.
没有时间骄傲。
I feel desolate, stressed, mostly numb.
我感到孤独、压力重重、几乎麻木。
I am interviewed on my work for the BBC, see myself on television: a thick mess of hair, big teeth, bad lighting.
我接受 BBC 工作采访，在电视上看到自己：浓密的头发、大牙齿、糟糕的灯光。
I hear myself on radio, a high-pitched voice like a child.
我在广播中听到自己的声音，声音像孩子一样高亢。
No pride, just a matter-of-fact, steady, grinding conviction that everything that happens here must be reported.
没有骄傲，只有一种实事求是、坚定而令人痛苦的信念，即这里发生的一切都必须报告。
My chest tightens when I speak to fishermen, wildlife directors, oceanographers who don’t hide their devastation on the phone.
当我与渔民、野生动物主管、海洋学家交谈时，我的胸口发紧，他们在电话中毫不掩饰他们的破坏。
The whole region affected by the spill is a sanctuary for our wildlife: Pointe d’Esny’s wetlands are a Ramsar site, as is the Blue Bay Marine Park.
受泄漏影响的整个地区都是野生动物的庇护所：埃斯尼角的湿地和蓝湾海洋公园都是拉姆萨尔湿地。
Just off the coast of Pointe d’Esny is Île aux Aigrettes, an islet that’s home to endemic species of birds, reptiles and plants.
埃斯尼角 (Pointe d’Esny) 海岸附近是白鹭岛 (Ile aux Aigrettes)，这座小岛是特有鸟类、爬行动物和植物的家园。
The oil coils around the islet like a noose.
石油像绞索一样盘绕在小岛周围。
The Mauritius Wildlife Foundation races to save as many species of animals and plants it can, but Vikash Tatayah, the foundation’s director, says Île aux Aigrettes could very well die since it is made of coral, and coral drinks oil.
毛里求斯野生动物基金会竞相拯救尽可能多的动植物物种，但该基金会主任维卡什·塔塔亚 (Vikash Tatayah) 表示，白鹭岛很可能会死亡，因为它是由珊瑚构成的，而珊瑚会喝油。
Tides carry the oil away from the rich beachfront homes of Pointe d’Esny and into Mahebourg.
潮汐将石油从埃斯尼角富裕的海滨住宅带到马埃堡。
Black waves bring animals to the town’s shore.
黑色的海浪将动物带到了小镇的海岸。
Sticky corpses float on the oil.
粘稠的尸体漂浮在油上。
Mahebourg: the ancient capital; traditional, relatively untouched by frenetic development.
马埃堡：古都；传统的，相对来说没有受到疯狂发展的影响。
It’s still the place where people sit on their flowerpot-adorned balconies drinking tea, watching and commenting on passers-by.
人们仍然坐在装饰着花盆的阳台上喝茶，观察和评论路人。
The only place where you can eat noodles with local scallops.
唯一可以吃当地扇贝面条的地方。
Its family-run restaurants are lauded in international magazines.
其家庭经营的餐厅受到国际杂志的称赞。
The government had a grand, tourist-friendly refurbishment plan for the town before Covid-19.
在 Covid-19 疫情之前，政府为该镇制定了一项宏伟的、对游客友好的整修计划。
On the waterfront crowds gather around the Rezistans ek Alternativ base.
在海滨，人群聚集在 Rezistans ek Alternativ 基地周围。
It’s described as a ‘people’s factory’, a ‘mobilization zone’: people come to make booms, but also create art and discuss the region’s future.
它被描述为“人民工厂”、“动员区”：人们来这里创造繁荣，但也创造艺术并讨论该地区的未来。
The base is adorned with posters expressing grief and anger at the government’s inaction, hope for a people’s revolution.
基地挂满了海报，表达了对政府无所作为的悲痛和愤怒，以及对人民革命的希望。
Residents of the town are anxious.
镇上的居民都很着急。
Children can’t go to school because of the smell.
由于气味，孩子们无法去上学。
Oil laps the shore around Cité La Chaux, a poorer part of Mahebourg.
石油环绕着拉绍城（马埃堡较贫困的地区）周围的海岸。
Residents fall ill but the government doesn’t evacuate the area.
居民生病了，但政府没有撤离该地区。
Fishermen and boaters don’t know how they’ll survive.
渔民和船夫不知道如何生存。
They gather at the waterfront base to talk about their future.
他们聚集在海滨基地谈论他们的未来。
Their income was already precarious before the spill.
在泄漏事件发生之前，他们的收入就已经岌岌可危。
Fishermen from other parts of the coast come to join them: the oil has travelled up the east coast, coating mangroves, beaches, animals, their children’s feet.
来自海岸其他地区的渔民也加入了他们的行列：石油沿着东海岸蔓延，覆盖了红树林、海滩、动物和孩子们的脚。
Everyone on the waterfront has an eye on the helicopters and boats circling the wreck.
海滨的每个人都注视着在沉船周围盘旋的直升机和船只。
The ship is hanging by a sliver of metal.
船被一根金属条悬挂着。
There’s some hope all the oil will be pumped out before it breaks in two.
有希望在石油裂成两半之前将所有石油抽出。
The news of the spill is covered not just by the largest of the international news media, but in places like Vogue.
漏油事件的消息不仅被最大的国际新闻媒体报道，《Vogue》等杂志也对此进行了报道。
People donate millions, and I am relieved that the money is going to trusted, non-governmental organisations.
人们捐赠了数百万美元，令我感到欣慰的是，这些钱将流向值得信赖的非政府组织。
There are also strange reactions: Lana del Rey posts a filtered, supposedly cryptic picture of the spill.
还有一些奇怪的反应：Lana del Rey 发布了一张经过过滤、据说很神秘的泄漏照片。
Disaster aesthetics.
灾难美学。
Her fans wonder if this is the cover art for her next single.
她的粉丝想知道这是否是她下一首单曲的封面艺术。
‘You’ve probably been put on some sort of list, so be careful,’ my parents say after I appear on the BBC.
“你可能已经被列入某种名单了，所以要小心，”我出现在 BBC 上后，我的父母说道。
I am interviewed along with other Mauritians.
我和其他毛里求斯人一起接受采访。
The BBC also shows footage of the leader of the opposition criticising the prime minister in parliament.
英国广播公司还播放了反对派领导人在议会批评总理的镜头。
After our appearances, the prime minister is interviewed live by Samantha Simmonds.
我们露面后，总理接受了萨曼莎·西蒙兹的现场采访。
‘Critics and many local people are saying that the government hasn’t done enough,’ Simmonds says.
“批评者和许多当地人都说政府做得还不够，”西蒙兹说。
‘They say there’s a huge amount of inaction by the government, and that you owe them an apology.’ She evokes the 2.3 million kilometres squared of maritime space belonging to Mauritius, the necessity of an action plan.
“他们说政府有大量不作为，你应该向他们道歉。”她提到了毛里求斯拥有 230 万平方公里的海域，因此有必要制定一项行动计划。
The prime minister appears flustered, starts talking about his government’s exemplary handling of the Covid-19 situation and then his connection is cut off.
总理显得很慌张，开始谈论他的政府对 Covid-19 局势的模范处理，然后他的联系就被切断了。
In the afternoon the prime minister holds a press conference.
下午，首相召开新闻发布会。
He prevents two openly dissenting news stations from attending.
他阻止两家公开持不同政见的新闻台参加。
He is asked questions about his BBC appearance, the apology owed to us.
有人问他有关他在 BBC 露面的问题，以及他应向我们道歉的问题。
‘ Ou kapav dir mwa kot monn fauter ?’ he asks.
“Ou kapav dir mwa kot monn fauter？”他问道。
Can you tell me what I did wrong?
你能告诉我我做错了什么吗？
‘Is the BBC a court of investigation?’ he says disdainfully.
“BBC 是一个调查法庭吗？”他轻蔑地说。
‘And who are the people talking on BBC?’ He mentions members of opposing political groups, activists.
“BBC 上谈论的人是谁？”他提到了反对派政治团体的成员、活动人士。
‘And then there are other so-called ‘experts’ who say we didn’t do this and that.
“还有其他所谓的‘专家’说我们没有这样做或那样做。
Kitesurfers have become experts now.’
风筝冲浪者现在已成为专家。
On 13 August, the day after his interview, police officers prevent the leader of the opposition from holding a press conference in his office in parliament.
8 月 13 日，即接受采访的第二天，警察阻止反对派领导人在议会办公室举行新闻发布会。
10 On the coast, a volunteer is pressured by government agents to remove a sign saying, ‘I love my country, I’m ashamed of my government’.
10 在海岸上，一名志愿者受到政府特工的压力，要求拆除一块标语，上面写着“我爱我的国家，我为我的政府感到羞耻”。
11 The slogan goes viral.
11 这句口号广为流传。
At night, the BBC interviews the former prime minister and leader of the Labour Party.
晚上，BBC 采访了前首相、工党领袖。
After a few seconds I’m unable to watch the channel.
几秒钟后我无法观看该频道。
It has been replaced by a Chinese news station.
它已被中国新闻台取代。
By the time connection to the BBC is re-established, the interview is out of the news cycle.
当与 BBC 的连接重新建立时，该采访已脱离新闻周期。
I lock the door to my home when I’m inside.
当我在里面时，我会锁上家门。
I wait for the police to show up, declare that I’ve been charged with an annoyance, hurting my country’s reputation.
我等待警察出现，宣布我被指控扰乱、损害我国声誉。
I sleep even less.
我睡得更少。
I leave my British passport on Antoine’s bedside table, along with a list of journalists and lawyers to contact if ever I’m arrested.
我把我的英国护照放在安托万的床头柜上，还有一份记者和律师名单，以便我被捕时可以联系。
I keep a box of formula in the pantry, so that if I’m taken away at least there’s milk for our son.
我在食品储藏室里放了一盒配方奶粉，这样如果我被带走，至少还有牛奶给我们的儿子喝。
On 15 August the ship breaks into two.
8 月 15 日，船分成两半。
The crowd on the waterfront isn’t watching the wreck, though: policemen have descended upon the Rezistans ek Alternative base to disband their operations.
不过，海滨的人群并没有关注事故的发生：警察已经来到 Rezistans ek Alternative 基地解散他们的行动。
They only back off when the radio starts to report their harassment.
只有当广播开始报道他们的骚扰时，他们才会退缩。
Later in the week, an informal protest is held in front of the Mahebourg court.
本周晚些时候，马埃堡法院前举行了非正式抗议活动。
The Minister of Environment and the Minister of Fisheries are due to appear; Bruneau Laurette, a social activist and maritime security professional, has lodged a case against them.
环境部长和渔业部长将出席；社会活动家和海事安全专业人士布鲁诺·劳雷特（Bruneau Laurette）已对他们提起诉讼。
The crowd, mostly comprised of Mahebourgeois, make their grievances known to the MPs as they walk by.
人群主要由马埃布尔乔亚组成，他们在路过的议员面前表达了他们的不满。
That night, two protesters are arrested by the police without a warrant and are jailed.
当晚，两名抗议者在没有逮捕令的情况下被警方逮捕并入狱。
Port Louis: our capital city.
路易港：我们的首都。
Palm trees and statues, crumbling shops and street art, tin roofs and food stalls, colonial buildings advertising the latest tech, fashion, creative venture.
棕榈树和雕像、摇摇欲坠的商店和街头艺术、铁皮屋顶和小吃摊、宣传最新科技、时尚和创意的殖民时期建筑。
On 29 August around 100,000 of us fill the city’s streets.
8 月 29 日，大约 10 万人挤满了城市的街道。
It’s the largest protest in Mauritian history.
这是毛里求斯历史上最大规模的抗议活动。
No political party or specific individual is at the helm: it’s all citizen led, though the activist Bruneau Laurette and the Rezistans ek Alternativ party have a large role in shaping the movement.
没有政党或特定个人掌舵：一切都是公民领导的，尽管活动家布鲁诺·劳雷特和Rezistans ek Alternativ党在塑造这场运动方面发挥着重要作用。
We’re of all ethnicities and of all ages.
我们来自各个种族和各个年龄段。
Some march with walking sticks.
有些人拄着拐杖游行。
Others are carried on their parent’s shoulders.
其他人则扛在父母的肩上。
Those of us abroad watch the protest online and gather in capitals around the world in solidarity.
我们这些身在海外的人在网上观看抗议活动，并聚集在世界各地的首都声援。
We sing Bob Marley’s ‘Redemption Song’ and the national anthem.
我们唱鲍勃·马利的《救赎之歌》和国歌。
We wave the Mauritian flag.
我们挥舞着毛里求斯国旗。
There is a sign that many people carry.
有一个标志，很多人都带着。
The prime minister’s infamous declaration: dir mwa kot monn faute.
总理臭名昭著的宣言：dir mwa kot monn faute。
Tell me where I went wrong.
告诉我我哪里错了。
Protesters have turned the statement into bloody stencils.
抗议者将这份声明变成了血腥的模板。
Against all international recommendations, despite our outcry and outrage, the government sank half of the Wakashio in great haste on 24 August.
尽管我们强烈抗议和愤慨，但政府不顾所有国际建议，于 8 月 24 日匆忙击沉了若潮号的一半。
Two days later, melon-headed whales washed up around the south-eastern coast.
两天后，瓜头鲸被冲上东南海岸。
Dead, mutilated, glossy bodies.
死了、残缺不全、光鲜亮丽的尸体。
Authorities haul them onto the back of pickup trucks, tails hanging out.
当局将它们拖到皮卡车的后面，尾巴悬在外面。
Authorities cover them in white sheets.
当局用白布盖住它们。
Videos of dying whales bobbing helpless in the ocean.
垂死鲸鱼在海洋中无助地漂浮的视频。
Video of a mother whale trying to nudge her dying baby above the waves so that it can breathe; she watches as it dies, then dies a little while later, too.
视频中，鲸鱼妈妈试图将垂死的婴儿推到海浪之上，以便它能够呼吸；她看着它死去，过了一会儿她也死了。
Fishermen say the ship was sunk in a whale breeding ground, that some of the corpses they found were of pregnant females.
渔民称，这艘船是在鲸鱼繁殖地沉没的，他们发现的一些尸体是怀孕的雌性鲸鱼。
The images choke us.
这些图像让我们窒息。
We shake, we cry.
我们颤抖，我们哭泣。
We carry dolphin plush toys, plastic blow-up dolphins, dolphin art to the march.
我们携带海豚毛绒玩具、塑料充气海豚、海豚艺术品参加游行。
Authorities say neither the spill nor the scuttling had anything to do with the fifty-one deaths.
当局表示，泄漏和自沉事件与 51 人死亡无关。
We chant bour li dehors.
我们唱诵 bour li dehors。
Get them the fuck out of here.
带他们离开这里。
Get the government the fuck out of here.
让政府滚出这里。
The prime minister says the march showed that ‘democracy was alive and working’, but the government’s Facebook page mocks protesters in a series of memes.
总理表示，游行表明“民主还活着并且正在发挥作用”，但政府的 Facebook 页面在一系列表情包中嘲笑抗议者。
On the night before the second major protest of 12 September, social media accounts of activist groups and journalists are hacked.
9 月 12 日第二次大型抗议活动前一天晚上，活动团体和记者的社交媒体账户遭到黑客攻击。
In October, Bruneau Laurette’s requests to protest are systematically denied.
十月，布鲁诺·劳雷特（Bruneau Laurette）的抗议请求遭到系统性拒绝。
Attempts are made to arrest him.
人们试图逮捕他。
Before the spill I thought my son’s first proper meal would be fish and rice; our fish, once considered some of the finest in the world.
在漏油事件发生之前，我以为我儿子的第一顿正餐应该是鱼和米饭。我们的鱼曾经被认为是世界上最好的鱼。
Now when I buy fish I make sure that it’s imported.
现在，当我买鱼时，我会确保它是进口的。
Parastatal fish farms are still readily selling their produce, since officials don’t believe that they were contaminated.
半国营养鱼场仍然随时出售其产品，因为官员们不相信它们受到污染。
12
12
Hydrocarbons were found in the whales’ bodies, and they suffered some kind of barotraumatic pressure – likely the result of the scuttling of the ship, if dynamite was used.
在鲸鱼的体内发现了碳氢化合物，它们遭受了某种气压创伤——如果使用炸药，这可能是船自沉的结果。
The government has never specified where the Wakashio was sunk, and where.
政府从未具体说明若潮号是在何处沉没的。
The necropsy report on the whales’ deaths will not be made public, either.
关于鲸鱼死亡的尸检报告也不会公开。
It is summer.
现在是夏天。
Our reservoirs are almost empty.
我们的水库几乎空了。
It is too hot for jeans, which stick to my skin.
对于牛仔裤来说太热了，牛仔裤会粘在我的皮肤上。
Too hot for make-up.
太热了，不适合化妆。
Too hot to do anything but swim on the weekends.
周末天气太热，除了游泳什么也做不了。
I’d planned my son’s first proper swim soon after he was born.
我计划在我儿子出生后不久让他第一次正式游泳。
We’d been told to wait until he was six months old, but that would be June, winter in Mauritius.
我们被告知要等到他六个月大，但那是六月，毛里求斯的冬天。
It’d be too cold.
太冷了。
We thought that the beginning of summer would be ideal.
我们认为初夏是最理想的。
Antoine and I would drive down to Pointe d’Esny a little after dawn.
天亮后不久，安托万和我会开车前往埃斯尼角。
We’d sit on the edge of the shore.
我们会坐在海岸边。
The waves would lap around my son’s suncreamed thighs.
海浪拍打着我儿子涂了防晒霜的大腿。
Perhaps we’d see a starfish or two in the water.
也许我们会在水中看到一两只海星。
He’d splash his hands and kick and laugh.
他会拍手、踢腿、大笑。
I take my son to Pointe d’Esny late in January, just for a few minutes.
一月底，我带儿子去了埃斯尼角，只待了几分钟。
The front half of the ship is still there, on the coral reef.
船的前半部分仍然在那里，在珊瑚礁上。
The authorities say that oil-cleaning operations have been successfully completed.
当局表示，石油清理工作已顺利完成。
I walk timidly to the shore, my baby in my arms.
我怀里抱着孩子，胆怯地走到岸边。
The sea is luminous, coloured like a slice of blue agate.
大海闪闪发光，颜色像一片蓝色的玛瑙。
It is clear.
很明显。
It wets my feet and I flinch.
它弄湿了我的脚，我畏缩了。
There’s no question of my son swimming here for another decade.
我儿子毫无疑问会在这里再游十年。
I remember watching two young boys in Palmar last year: they’d emerged from the sea, had shaken most of the saltwater off their bodies, and were carefully reclothing themselves in stiff white shirts and black trousers.
我记得去年在帕尔马看到两个小男孩：他们从海里出来，甩掉身上的大部分盐水，小心翼翼地换上僵硬的白衬衫和黑裤子。
Perhaps they’d briefly escaped a ceremony of some sort to find relief in the water.
也许他们短暂地逃离了某种仪式，到水里寻求解脱。
They’d be itchy in the hours to come: the fabric of their shirts would chafe against their skin, their hair would be crisp and stiff with salt.
接下来的几个小时里，他们会感到很痒：衬衫的布料会摩擦皮肤，头发会因盐分而变得脆硬。
But they thought their discomfort was worth it for those ten minutes of joy.
但他们认为为了这十分钟的欢乐，他们的不适是值得的。
1 | https://www.lexpress.mu/article/350555/pointe-desny-aret-kokin-nou-mer https://www.lexpress.mu/article/326526/pointe-desny-acces-plage-interdit
1 | https://www.lexpress.mu/article/350555/pointe-desny-aret-kokin-nou-mer https://www.lexpress.mu/article/326526/pointe-desny-acces-plage-interdit
2 | https://www.forbes.com/sites/nishandegnarain/2020/08/09/how-satellites-traced-the-fateful-journey-of-the-ship-that-led-to–mauritius-worst-oil-spill-disaster/#2db269ec5b42
2 | https://www.forbes.com/sites/nishandegnarain/2020/08/09/how-satellites-traced-the-fateful-journey-of-the-ship-that-led-to–mauritius-worst-oil-spill-disaster/#2db269ec5b42
3 | https://gcaptain.com/bulk-carrier-benita-hard-aground-in-mauritius-after-fight-on-board/
3 | https://gcaptain.com/bulk-carrier-benita-hard-aground-in-mauritius-after-fight-on-board/
4 | https://www.lemauricien.com/actualites/politique/scandale-allegue-cest-quoi-le-st-louis-gate/356119/
4 | https://www.lemauricien.com/actualites/politique/scandale-allegue-cest-quoi-le-st-louis-gate/356119/
6 | https://defimedia.info/manipulees-et-trompeuses-le-ministere-de-la-peche-reagit-aux-photos-dun-wakashio-sombrant
6 | https://defimedia.info/manipulees-et-trompeuses-le-ministere-de-la-peche-reagit-aux-photos-dun-wakashio-sombrant
7 | https://rsf.org/en/news/rsf-condemns-harsh-penalties-online-content-mauritius
7 | https://rsf.org/en/news/rsf-condemns-harsh-penalties-online-content-mauritius
8 | https://www.rfi.fr/en/africa/20200610-rights-groups-in-mauritius-wary-as-police-extend-powers-under-covid-19-quarantine
8 | https://www.rfi.fr/en/africa/20200610-rights-groups-in-mauritius-wary-as-police-extend-powers-under-covid-19-quarantine
9 | https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kDICLcU0bV4&feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR2Py5u7QPdWpv1-dGMkXnvWsgAZ2-zS_qQohXtBINI1Ff3_YKs5Cw3NXmw
9 | https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kDICLcU0bV4&feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR2Py5u7QPdWpv1-dGMkXnvWsgAZ2-zS_qQohXtBINI1Ff3_YKs5Cw3NXmw
10 | https://www.lexpress.mu/video/381286/journalistes-interdits-conference-presse-darvin-boolell
10 | 10 https://www.lexpress.mu/video/381286/journalistes-interdits-conference-presse-darvin-boolell
11 | https://www.facebook.com/vinz.ramdonee/videos/1663660900458065/
11 | 11 https://www.facebook.com/vinz.ramdonee/videos/1663660900458065/
12 | https://www.lexpress.mu/article/383914/business-usual-pour-ferme-marine-mahebourg
12 | 12 https://www.lexpress.mu/article/383914/business-usual-pour-ferme-marine-mahebourg
‘She must have loved gold seeing that everything in the penthouse was gold.
“她一定很喜欢黄金，因为顶层公寓里的一切都是金子。
We didn’t sit.
我们没有坐。
Fear didn’t let us see where to sit.’ A story by Adachioma Ezeano.
恐惧让我们不知道该坐在哪里。”Adachioma Ezeano 的故事。
‘I had also, a week earlier, been fired for trying to sleep with my boss’s husband.
“一周前，我还因为试图和老板的丈夫睡觉而被解雇。
I got the idea from a book, or maybe every book.’ A story by Emily Adrian.
我从一本书或每本书中得到了这个想法。艾米丽·阿德里安的故事。
‘The Mitsubishi conglomerate controls a forty per cent share of the world market in bluefin tuna; they are freezing and hoarding huge stocks of the fish every year.’ Katherine Rundell on extinction speculation.
“三菱集团控制着全球蓝鳍金枪鱼市场百分之四十的份额；他们每年都会冷冻并囤积大量鱼类。”凯瑟琳·伦德尔 (Katherine Rundell) 关于灭绝的猜测。
‘Two roof tiles are missing to the rear: the kiss of death.
“后面缺了两块屋顶瓦片：死亡之吻。”
Without repair, ruination is now inevitable.
如果不进行修复，毁坏是不可避免的。
Until then, this is my best hope of shelter.’ Cal Flyn visits the island of Swona in northern Scotland.
在那之前，这是我最大的庇护所希望。”卡尔·弗林访问了苏格兰北部的斯沃纳岛。
‘I’m on the cliff of myself & these aren’t wings, they’re futures.
“我正处于自己的悬崖上，这些不是翅膀，而是未来。”
/ For as long as I can remember my body was a small town nightmare.’ A poem by Ocean Vuong.
/ 从我记事起，我的身体就是一座小镇的噩梦。”Ocean Vuong 的一首诗。
Ariel Saramandi is an Anglo-Mauritian writer.
阿里尔·萨拉曼迪 (Ariel Saramandi) 是一位英裔毛里求斯作家。
She is represented by Lisa Baker at Aitken Alexander Associates.
她的代表是 Aitken Alexander Associates 的丽莎·贝克 (Lisa Baker)。
‘Once, early on, before he learned such things were never said, my brother approached a white boy in his class with my mother’s maiden name and said they must be cousins.
“有一次，在我哥哥得知从来没有说过这样的事情之前，他曾用我母亲的婚前姓氏接近班上的一个白人男孩，并说他们一定是表兄弟。
The violence in my family’s home started a year or so later.’
大约一年后，我家开始发生暴力事件。
‘India, as we know it, is changing.
“据我们所知，印度正在发生变化。
What will it become?’ Memoir by Amitava Kumar.
它会变成什么？”阿米塔瓦·库马尔的回忆录。
‘The only thing that was clear was that the square would be full, and Opantish had to be ready.’ An excerpt from Yasmin El-Rifae’s account of the Egyptian revolution and its aftermath, Radius .
“唯一清楚的是，广场将挤满人，奥潘提什必须做好准备。”摘自亚斯明·埃尔里法 (Yasmin El-Rifae) 对埃及革命及其后果的描述，《Radius》。
‘The creek was fringed with tall grass and clear as breath.’ Kate Harris in the Taku River Tlingit First Nation.
“小溪的边缘长满了高高的草丛，清澈见底。”来自塔库河特林吉特原住民的凯特·哈里斯 (Kate Harris)。
‘In the part of the world where I come from, Europe is not just an ideal and a beautiful dream’ Translated from the Turkish by Ekin Oklap.
“在我出生的地方，欧洲不仅仅是一个理想和美丽的梦想”，由 Ekin Oklap 翻译自土耳其语。
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