How Cookie Jars Capture American Kitsch
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Recipes, money, written affirmations, and receipts.
食谱、金钱、书面确认书和收据。
That’s what Hazy Mae keeps in her ceramic cookie jars.
这就是 Hazy Mae 放在陶瓷饼干罐里的东西。
Cookies?
曲奇饼？
None.
没有任何。
Since she was gifted her first cookie jar, a midcentury ceramic bear, several years ago, the New York City-based artist has become a collector of a few dozen quirky, mostly vintage cookie jars.
自从几年前她收到了她的第一个饼干罐——一只中世纪的陶瓷熊以来，这位纽约市的艺术家已经成为了几十个奇特的、大多是老式饼干罐的收藏家。
“A friend of mine was like, ‘You’re the only person I know with 100 cookie jars and not a single cookie in your house,’” says Mae, whose mother kept similar odds and ends — never cookies — in her collection of house-shaped cookie jars.
“我的一个朋友说，‘我认识的人中，你是唯一一个拥有 100 个饼干罐，而你家里却没有一块饼干的人，’”梅说，她的母亲在她收藏的房子形状的饼干罐中保留了类似的零碎物品，但从来没有饼干。
But Mae isn’t just a collector, she’s also a cookie jar maker, and her work is part of a new wave of appreciation for ceramic cookie jars.
但梅不仅仅是一位收藏家，她还是一位饼干罐制造商，她的作品是陶瓷饼干罐新一轮欣赏浪潮的一部分。
Boosted by ongoing enthusiasm for pottery and sculpture , new cookie jar creations are once again dotting retail shelves, as a revived reverence for vintage models also takes hold.
在人们对陶器和雕塑的持续热情的推动下，新的饼干罐创作再次出现在零售货架上，人们对复古模型的崇敬也重新燃起。
Ceramic cookie jars — those flamboyant crockeries topped with ornate finials — first brought art into the heart of American homes decades ago.
陶瓷饼干罐——那些装饰着华丽饰物的华丽陶器——几十年前首次将艺术带入美国家庭的中心。
Becoming a prominent kitchenware item by the 1950s, around the introduction of premade cookie dough , cookie jars remained popular well into the 1990s.
到了 20 世纪 50 年代，随着预制饼干面团的推出，饼干罐成为了一种著名的厨具，直到 90 年代，饼干罐仍然很受欢迎。
But even after being sidelined as seasonal holiday decor, broad adoration for ceramic cookie jars has never fully disappeared.
但即使在作为季节性节日装饰被边缘化之后，对陶瓷饼干罐的广泛喜爱也从未完全消失。
“The idea of a cookie jar is familiar and it feels nostalgic,” says Mae.
“饼干罐的想法很熟悉，而且让人怀旧，”梅说。
“But also, it’s new and fresh and contemporary.”
“而且，它是新的、新鲜的、现代的。”
New designs in today’s ceramic menagerie include rendered woodland creatures and splotchy puffer fish alongside cottagecore toadstools .
当今陶瓷动物园的新设计包括渲染的林地生物和斑点河豚鱼以及乡村伞菌。
Streetwear brand Supreme collaborated with Pillsbury to create a Doughboy cookie jar and a line of clothing featuring the classic character, offering throwback afterschool-snack vibes to a young generation whose baking rituals may have started with the brand.
街头服饰品牌 Supreme 与 Pillsbury 合作，打造了 Doughboy 饼干罐和一系列以经典角色为特色的服装，为年轻一代带来了复古的课后小吃氛围，他们的烘焙习惯可能是从该品牌开始的。
Similarly, Williams-Sonoma gave Mickey Mouse a refresh in cookie jar form; the result was cool enough to earn a spot in Rihanna’s kitchen .
同样，威廉姆斯-索诺玛公司以饼干罐的形式给米老鼠带来了新的面貌；结果很酷，足以在蕾哈娜的厨房里赢得一席之地。
CB2’s iteration of a midcentury modern piece by designer Paul McCobb, while sleek and minimalistic, is also a nod to the retro.
CB2 对设计师 Paul McCobb 的中世纪现代作品进行了迭代，虽然时尚简约，但也是对复古的致敬。
At Bloomingdale’s and Saks Fifth Avenue, Mae’s whimsical, monochromatic line incorporates original characters and famous figures like Tina Turner and Iris Apfel.
在 Bloomingdale’s 和 Saks Fifth Avenue 百货公司，Mae 异想天开的单色系列融合了原创人物和蒂娜·特纳 (Tina Turner) 和艾里斯·阿普菲尔 (Iris Apfel) 等著名人物。
“I hoped that it would become a thing that a lot of people did again,” says Mae about the cookie jar resurgence.
“我希望这会成为很多人再次做的事情，”梅谈到饼干罐的复兴时说道。
“They can contain anything that you want.
“它们可以包含任何你想要的东西。
A lot of people say that mine are conversation pieces.” Which is exactly what you’d hope for, given that Mae’s cookie jars cost around $800.
很多人说我的作品都是话题。”鉴于 Mae 的饼干罐售价约为 800 美元，这正是您所希望的。
A Hazy Mae Elvis cookie jar, which retails for $850.
Hazy Mae Elvis 饼干罐，零售价 850 美元。
Hazy Mae Ceramic cookie jars have been a perennial muse for the classically trained artist.
Hazy Mae 陶瓷饼干罐一直是这位受过古典训练的艺术家永恒的缪斯。
She painted images of cookie jars, zooming in on their features, for years before eventually expanding her practice to sculpting them.
她画了饼干罐的图像，放大了它们的特征，多年来，最终将她的实践扩展到雕刻它们。
Now, Mae handmakes each cookie jar — shaping the clay on a slab roller, then building the base and head, before firing and hand-painting each — in a process that takes about six weeks to complete.
现在，梅手工制作每个饼干罐——在平板滚筒上将粘土成型，然后建造底座和头部，然后进行烧制和手绘——这个过程大约需要六周的时间才能完成。
But while the ceramic cookie jar has long been repurposed for many things — even goodwill, as seen in recent charitable effort the Cookie Jar Project — I’ve always been skeptical of ceramic cookie jars as a storage solution for cookies.
但是，虽然陶瓷饼干罐长期以来被重新用于许多用途，甚至是善意，正如最近的慈善活动“饼干罐项目”中所看到的那样，但我一直对陶瓷饼干罐作为饼干的存储解决方案持怀疑态度。
After my son and I finish baking our holiday cookies every December, I carefully heap them into a sensible food storage bag or a reusable container, never once considering the cookie jar in what should be its moment of glory.
每年十二月，我和儿子烤完节日饼干后，我都会小心翼翼地把它们堆到一个实用的食品储存袋或可重复使用的容器中，从来没有考虑过饼干罐应该是它的辉煌时刻。
“They’re not meant to be in there very long,” says pastry chef Cheryl Day, owner of Back in the Day Bakery in Savannah and the author of the celebrated Cheryl Day’s Treasury of Southern Baking .
“它们不会在那里呆太久，”萨凡纳 Back in the Day Bakery 面包店老板、著名的谢丽尔·戴 (Cheryl Day) 南方烘焙宝藏一书的作者、糕点师谢丽尔·戴 (Cheryl Day) 说。
Day recommends storing homemade cookies in cookie jars for only a couple of days.
Day 建议将自制饼干在饼干罐中仅保存几天。
Store-bought cookies, especially if they’re packaged in sleeves, can be tucked into the jar for longer.
商店购买的饼干，尤其是用套子包装的饼干，可以在罐子里保存更长时间。
“It’s going to last a little bit longer, and it’s going to look a lot nicer.” And if cookie jars aren’t the best at keeping things fresh, they at least can protect cookies from bugs or even tiny hands, she adds.
“它会持续更长时间，而且看起来会更好看。”她补充道，即使饼干罐不能最好地保持食物新鲜，它们至少可以保护饼干免受虫子甚至小手的侵害。
But Day doesn’t actually keep her own cookies in a cookie jar.
但戴实际上并没有把自己的饼干放在饼干罐里。
A few years ago, she purchased what she describes as a “faux-vintage” ceramic cookie jar.
几年前，她购买了一个她所说的“仿复古”陶瓷饼干罐。
“I bought it because I loved it, and I ended up storing other stuff in there which was kind of fun,” mostly office supplies and spools of thread, she says.
“我买它是因为我喜欢它，最后我还在那里存放了其他东西，这很有趣，”主要是办公用品和线轴，她说。
“Just knickknacks.”
“只是小摆设。”
The joy of cookie jars , for many, is finding a jar that feels perfectly suited to one’s own personal taste or identity.
对于许多人来说，饼干罐的乐趣在于找到一个完全适合自己个人品味或身份的罐子。
In this hunt, the world of vintage cookie jars offers near infinite options.
在这场狩猎中，老式饼干罐的世界提供了近乎无限的选择。
In Chicago, pastry chef Mindy Segal remains smitten with a vintage 1940s ceramic cookie jar that she’s had for decades.
在芝加哥，糕点师 Mindy Segal 仍然对她已经拥有了几十年的 20 世纪 40 年代老式陶瓷饼干罐着迷。
“I call him Chef,” says Segal, coauthor of the cookbook Cookie Love .
“我称他为厨师，”食谱《Cookie Love》的合著者西格尔说。
“I’ve had him since I was in my 20s and it was my first major purchase into the vintage world.
“我从 20 多岁起就拥有了他，这是我进入复古世界的第一件大事。
I love him and will never get rid of him.
我爱他，永远不会摆脱他。
He’s like my guy.” Chef dons a stiff white chef’s hat and he has been dubbed guardian of dog treats.
他就像我的人一样。”厨师戴着一顶僵硬的白色厨师帽，他被称为狗粮的守护者。
Recently, Segal bought a second cookie jar, which lives in her popular Mindy’s Bakery .
最近，西格尔买了第二个饼干罐，放在她受欢迎的明迪面包店里。
“I put pretzels in it and sometimes I put candy in it.
“我会在里面放椒盐卷饼，有时还会放糖果。
I don’t put cookies in it,” she says.
我不会在里面放饼干，”她说。
Years before the existence of digital marketplaces, a go-to resource for ceramic cookie jar collectors and novices alike was a shop located on Chicago’s North Side called Jazz’e Junque , owned by Mercedes DiRenzo Bolduc.
在数字市场出现之前的几年，陶瓷饼干罐收藏家和新手的首选资源是位于芝加哥北区的一家名为 Jazz’e Junque 的商店，由 Mercedes DiRenzo Bolduc 拥有。
Known as the “cookie jar lady,” Bolduc has even lent her expertise and cookie jars as props to the sets of movie classics Home Alone and Groundhog Day .
博尔杜克被称为“饼干罐女士”，她甚至将自己的专业知识和饼干罐用作电影经典电影《小鬼当家》和《土拨鼠之日》的道具。
Fittingly, Bolduc’s own — cookie-less — cookie jar is a one-of-a-kind, custom-made caricature of her and her dog.
恰如其分的是，博尔杜克自己的——无饼干——饼干罐是她和她的狗的独一无二的定制漫画。
“Each kitchen should have a cookie jar to reflect the person’s personality,” advises Bolduc.
“每个厨房都应该有一个饼干罐来反映这个人的个性，”博尔杜克建议。
“It makes them happy.”
“这让他们很高兴。”
Bolduc opened her shop in 1989 — a year after Andy Warhol’s collection of more than 175 ceramic cookie jars sold at Sotheby’s for nearly $250,000 — with a focus on vintage clothing, but cleverly used cookie jars as a hook to differentiate from the other vintage shops in the area.
Bolduc 于 1989 年开设了自己的店铺，一年前，安迪·沃霍尔 (Andy Warhol) 收藏的超过 175 个陶瓷饼干罐在苏富比拍卖行以近 25 万美元的价格售出。
“The cookie jars were the big sellers.
“饼干罐很畅销。
I got rid of the clothes and I ended up turning it into a cookie jar shop,” she says.
我扔掉了这些衣服，最后把它变成了一家饼干罐店，”她说。
“When I opened, I met people that had been collecting cookie jars for like 20 years already.”
“当我开业时，我遇到了一些已经收集饼干罐已有 20 年之久的人。”
Cookie jar collecting grew in the U.S. as many of the big pottery manufacturers like Brush-McCoy and American Bisque slowed down production before eventually shutting down in the 1980s.
随着 Brush-McCoy 和 American Bisque 等许多大型陶器制造商放慢了生产速度，最终在 20 世纪 80 年代关闭，饼干罐收藏在美国不断增长。
Back then, Bolduc would scout newspapers for preowned jars, and reference industry guidebooks to source the ones with the most value.
当时，博尔杜克会在报纸上寻找二手罐子，并参考行业指南来寻找最有价值的罐子。
But prices for secondhand cookie jars have significantly deflated since their heyday in the ’90s when Bolduc could sell a highly sought Howdy Doody cookie jar for $500 or more.
但二手饼干罐的价格自 90 年代的鼎盛时期以来已经大幅下降，当时 Bolduc 可以以 500 美元或更高的价格出售备受追捧的 Howdy Doody 饼干罐。
(Bolduc says the ceramic marionette now goes for around $200 .)
（博尔杜克说，这个陶瓷木偶现在的售价约为 200 美元。）
The circulation of counterfeit cookie jars, replicas of the most valuable, helped upset the market, making some would-be buyers skittish about spending hundreds of dollars for vintage cookie jars, especially when purchased online where most resales occur today.
假冒饼干罐（最有价值的饼干罐的复制品）的流通扰乱了市场，使一些潜在买家对花费数百美元购买老式饼干罐感到不安，尤其是在网上购买时，如今大多数转售都发生在网上。
But Bolduc says the prices — and demand — for vintage cookie jars are steadily creeping up again, likely thanks to the current ’90s revival, partnered with the rise in thrifting and vintage shopping.
但博尔杜克表示，复古饼干罐的价格和需求再次稳步上升，这可能要归功于当前 90 年代的复兴，加上节俭和复古购物的兴起。
Bolduc closed her storefront a few years ago and moved into a large stall at an antiques mall in the suburbs.
几年前，博尔杜克关闭了她的店面，搬进了郊区一家古董商场的一个大摊位。
Even scaled down, it’s still a vintage kitchenware emporium full of ceramic teapots, salt and pepper shakers, and extremely popular vintage Pyrex .
即使缩小规模，它仍然是一个老式厨具商场，里面摆满了陶瓷茶壶、盐罐和胡椒瓶，以及非常受欢迎的老式耐热玻璃。
Bolduc’s cookie jars line the stall, sitting high on shelves with their lids taped shut to prevent accidental tumbles.
博尔杜克的饼干罐排列在摊位上，高高地放在架子上，盖子用胶带封住，以防止意外跌落。
From cheeky pups and charming owls to a pastel clock emblazoned with the words “cookie time,” like the one seen in Monica’s kitchen on Friends , and a mammy cookie jar that recalls the way these everyday items have been used to reinforce offensive, anti-Black tropes, the cookie jars are timestamps of American culture.
从厚脸皮的小狗和迷人的猫头鹰，到印有“饼干时间”字样的柔和时钟，就像《老友记》中莫妮卡厨房里看到的那样，还有一个妈妈饼干罐，让人想起这些日常用品如何被用来强化攻击性、反黑人的比喻，饼干罐是美国文化的时间戳。
On a bottom shelf at Jazz’e Junque, still nestled in its original box, is a vintage double-barrel jar from cookie pioneer Wally “Famous” Amos, designed to efficiently hold two different types of cookies (or non-cookies), separately.
Jazz’e Junque 的底层架子上，仍然放在原来的盒子里，有一个来自饼干先驱 Wally “Famous” Amos 的老式双桶罐，旨在有效地分别容纳两种不同类型的饼干（或非饼干）。
Favorite cookie jars are often described as having character, but thoughtful ingenuity can also leave a lasting impression.
最喜欢的饼干罐通常被描述为具有个性，但深思熟虑的独创性也可以给人留下持久的印象。
And there are still ways to innovate.
而且仍然有创新的方法。
During Art Basel last fall, Pharrell Williams’s BBC brand in collaboration with artist Todd James unveiled a cheerful, Saturn-shaped cookie jar — made of vinyl.
去年秋天的巴塞尔艺术展期间，法瑞尔·威廉姆斯 (Pharrell Williams) 的 BBC 品牌与艺术家托德·詹姆斯 (Todd James) 合作推出了一款由乙烯基制成的欢快的土星形状的饼干罐。
Angela Burke is a Chicago-based food writer and the creator of the site Black Food & Beverage .
安吉拉·伯克 (Angela Burke) 是一位芝加哥美食作家，也是 Black Food & Beverage 网站的创建者。